I built a stroker YZ125 engine when I was 16 with my dad and we added 13 mm longer rod length plus an extra 6 mm of stroke... For the initial build I added a 13 mm thicker base plate on the cylinder and then on the final build I went ahead and added up 13 mm on the base of the cylinder with the TIG welder, I use an air hammer to peen the passes down in between each set of beads... In the end i use the Dremel tool to match the contour around the cylinder... It worked fine... WE used longer rod to combat the crank angle shoving the piston into the exhaust port on the cylinder... It was a great exercise it looks like you're doing great with your project too. We ended up 174.5cc and going from 33HP to 38HP and 30% more TQ. Good video. Bravo. ❤
I like to hear about engine mods other people have done. Been modifying various engines since the 1970's, first was a Honda CB160 block with 175 pistons while I was training.
Looks fantastic! Great job using the base-gasket spacers! Years ago Ducati released a 350cc motorcycle that was severely "de-tuned" from the factory, and they were pretty lethargic as stock, but it had 2 base gaskets and a thick alloy spacer under the Jug, if you removed the spacer and ran just one gasket the bike picked up performance a ton! (not 14mm thick, just like 1 or 2mm)
I use calipers 95% of the time, especially with snap gages. A micrometer can move a snap gage if you're not careful. Use what works for you is my advice. Looking good, thanks for the video!
Nice work. I was taught when using bore snap gauges you need to sweep the snap guage in the micrometer looking for the high spot and to get the most accurate reading you want to feel the same drag when pulling thru the mic jaws as the drag when removing snap guage in bore your measuring. Just my 2 cents
Thanks, the mirrored heads was a possibility but required a second cam chain and another tensioner and mirrored rocker arms. Maybe I develop the idea further down, but I think the dual carbs look pretty cool.
Very nice work sir. This engine is going to look great. Very impressive. I’m on my second steam engine. Nothing as complicated as this. Maybe one day I will attempt a engine like this.
Good observation. The bearings came with the bolts so I just made the rods to match. It seems rod bolts in this size are quite common in the USA for go kart motors.
Allen Millyard ( SIR) 😃used that link rod system in his kawa v12 I can’t get my head around that small lower bush not taking much load , as he suggests surely it would be taking the equivalent of a full sized big end only over a much smaller area your rake on this haha looks like you’ve been to Ali express for shell brgs I bought some to measure up for my project but I’m going Honda oe there can be a lot of tech that goes into brg shells I’m going KING busa brgs on the mains fantastic tech. Coated and a great range of thicknesse to top it so much more cost effective than OEM any progress with the mighty V4 I love that project Can I ask thd firing order for that engine? Keep up the gd work 👍🍻
@@HSuomi they are more or less the best thing you can get besides going to your local foundry and buying ingots. They seem to react well to heat treatment and cast fairly well. Just get a factory alloy wheel from any Japanese car.
this is all really cool BUT your engine has a pretty big design problem. So i see that the bottom end is more or less based on one of those honda GX 200 style engines. But the top end is from old honda 50 - 110cc utility bikes. Or now more or less cheap chinesse pitbikes. Issue is that the oiling system in the GX 200 engines is just not good. I hate that there is no oil pump and the engines wear down really fast. Compare that to the needle bearing that is supplies with oil by the oil pump in the 110cc engines i think its obvious which will last longer. Not to mention you will need a way of getting the oil to the camshaft on the head. I might be wrong and you have a oil pump but I didnt see one in this video
There is an oil pump, you might be able to see it spinning in my last short. If the crank becomes problematic, there are options to change to a 3 piece set up and run needle rollers.
@ oh nice. Yeah i was mostly afraid of you not having a pump. So yeah with a bearing that should be heaps reliable. Do you have oil supply to the bushing where the 2nd rod attaches to the primary?
I built a stroker YZ125 engine when I was 16 with my dad and we added 13 mm longer rod length plus an extra 6 mm of stroke... For the initial build I added a 13 mm thicker base plate on the cylinder and then on the final build I went ahead and added up 13 mm on the base of the cylinder with the TIG welder, I use an air hammer to peen the passes down in between each set of beads... In the end i use the Dremel tool to match the contour around the cylinder... It worked fine... WE used longer rod to combat the crank angle shoving the piston into the exhaust port on the cylinder... It was a great exercise it looks like you're doing great with your project too. We ended up 174.5cc and going from 33HP to 38HP and 30% more TQ. Good video. Bravo. ❤
Thank you. That sounds like a pretty cool experience and it’s even better that it worked so well.
I like to hear about engine mods other people have done.
Been modifying various engines since the 1970's, first was a Honda CB160 block with 175 pistons while I was training.
regardless of the connecting rod set back, your work is awsome. and putting the effort to share it with us is very appreciated👍👍👍
Thank you
Looks fantastic! Great job using the base-gasket spacers! Years ago Ducati released a 350cc motorcycle that was severely "de-tuned" from the factory, and they were pretty lethargic as stock, but it had 2 base gaskets and a thick alloy spacer under the Jug, if you removed the spacer and ran just one gasket the bike picked up performance a ton! (not 14mm thick, just like 1 or 2mm)
That’s interesting, I wonder why they detuned it.
Low octane fuel in the intended market??
Super sharp looking rods, beautiful surface finish on the boring.
Thanks for the shout out!
Conn-rods look great. Excellent, practical recovery.
Good to see a relevant and useful sponsor for the channel. Going to get a quote for some CNC rotary goodies 👍🏻
I use calipers 95% of the time, especially with snap gages. A micrometer can move a snap gage if you're not careful. Use what works for you is my advice. Looking good, thanks for the video!
Thanks, I have had that happen before so I make sure the snap gauges are done up fairly snug.
Nice work. I was taught when using bore snap gauges you need to sweep the snap guage in the micrometer looking for the high spot and to get the most accurate reading you want to feel the same drag when pulling thru the mic jaws as the drag when removing snap guage in bore your measuring. Just my 2 cents
Great work! Good recovery from the conrod length disappointment too.
Kinda sad you couldn't get mirrored heads but overall super cool seeing this come together!
Thanks, the mirrored heads was a possibility but required a second cam chain and another tensioner and mirrored rocker arms. Maybe I develop the idea further down, but I think the dual carbs look pretty cool.
Skill, care and knowledge by the bucket load. Onya mate.
Thank you
Very nice work sir. This engine is going to look great. Very impressive. I’m on my second steam engine. Nothing as complicated as this. Maybe one day I will attempt a engine like this.
Thank you, and maybe one day I’ll try my hand at a steam engine.
Interesting oil clearance on the big end. My factory manual for my fz750 about .037-.044 mm as about 166cc cyl
Nice work on the JLC sponsor bro! I've used them a few times now, love being able to cost parts as I design
Thanks, I’ve outsourced a few parts now from different places and they definitely had the quickest turn around.
Alright. An update. Cool!
Ouch, that is quite an impressive cock-up :)
Thanks, I’m sure it happens to the best of us.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Adds character :)
What type main brgs u using? I believe some Ducati v2 model use preload on the main brgs set with shims
Why the non-metric big end bolts and "freedom unit" installation torques? Seems a bit odd when all your other dimensioning and machining is metric...
Good observation. The bearings came with the bolts so I just made the rods to match. It seems rod bolts in this size are quite common in the USA for go kart motors.
Hello Aussie. Good stuff.
Put that motor on a bicycle frame similar to an old boardtracker from the early days of motorcycles!
Something like this is in the works
Allen Millyard ( SIR) 😃used that link rod system in his kawa v12 I can’t get my head around that small lower bush not taking much load , as he suggests surely it would be taking the equivalent of a full sized big end only over a much smaller area your rake on this haha looks like you’ve been to Ali express for shell brgs I bought some to measure up for my project but I’m going Honda oe there can be a lot of tech that goes into brg shells I’m going KING busa brgs on the mains fantastic tech. Coated and a great range of thicknesse to top it so much more cost effective than OEM any progress with the mighty V4 I love that project Can I ask thd firing order for that engine? Keep up the gd work 👍🍻
Thanks, You’ve made some fairly accurate observations haha. The firing order for this or the V4?
@@OddsandEndsMachining cheers v4 firing order !
Would it not be better to put two bushes in the fork part of the link rod and lock the pin into the large rod nice work
I don’t think there is enough meat on the link rod to do this although it was an option. It would have made securing the pin easier.
God it'd be mean to chuck one of these in a mini chop
That’s not a bad idea
Nice work.
What is the material you use for casting the cases?
Thank you. These were cast from a Tesla model 3 wheel.
Ok. Have you got more experienxe using aluminium wheels for casting? Are they all the same or how to identify good ones?
@@HSuomi they are more or less the best thing you can get besides going to your local foundry and buying ingots. They seem to react well to heat treatment and cast fairly well. Just get a factory alloy wheel from any Japanese car.
Thanks. Ill try that. Ive been using all kind of different scrap with different results.
Why 200cc? Could you use lifan 140cc blocks, heads, etc?
Just because I had 47mm cylinders, you could indeed swap to some 56mm cylinders and make it 265cc.
What material is the master tod made from?
S45C similar to 1045
Being an English speaker I couldn't understand a word you said. ( but I bet you can guess where I'm from...)🤭
Somewhere in the northern hemisphere? Good thing the automatic subtitles work fairly well most of the time.
this is all really cool BUT your engine has a pretty big design problem. So i see that the bottom end is more or less based on one of those honda GX 200 style engines. But the top end is from old honda 50 - 110cc utility bikes. Or now more or less cheap chinesse pitbikes. Issue is that the oiling system in the GX 200 engines is just not good. I hate that there is no oil pump and the engines wear down really fast. Compare that to the needle bearing that is supplies with oil by the oil pump in the 110cc engines i think its obvious which will last longer. Not to mention you will need a way of getting the oil to the camshaft on the head. I might be wrong and you have a oil pump but I didnt see one in this video
There is an oil pump, you might be able to see it spinning in my last short. If the crank becomes problematic, there are options to change to a 3 piece set up and run needle rollers.
@ oh nice. Yeah i was mostly afraid of you not having a pump. So yeah with a bearing that should be heaps reliable. Do you have oil supply to the bushing where the 2nd rod attaches to the primary?
@ it is oiled the same as a little end bearing. Just by the mist in the crankcase.
Hey man if you are going this hard why not go for a pair of Daytona 212's
JUST ADD A SPACER/SHIM TO THE BOTTOM OF THE JUGS!!!!!
spoke too soon, lol