I know it may sound dumb, but DO NOT disconnect those injector lines from each other. They may look like they can only go one way, it is really easy to skip one line on the pump and it will not run. Ask me how I know. 😐
Thanks! I use to be in Gfunk a couple years back. I put in about 5 years at the Kenworth shop. Did this stuff on the side including in house EFI tuning on the 06-09 dodges back then.
Why are you working on the ground ! get a small Table with big casters and mount the pieces of equipment that you use from time to time on it. This way you can move it around where you need it. !
I agree with you 110%. With that said, we did it to ourselves, things are so overly regulated and taxed here that it is next to impossible to compete with countries like China, India, and Taiwan. Hopefully things get back to a "common sense" balance with the new administration and companies will be able to bring some jobs back to this country. You really can't hold this against Cummins, -Cat has been manufacturing in China for quite a few years now as well. Lastly, the products coming from over there are getting to be really scary good, -we should pay attention to that because it means that we are falling behind as a manufacturing country.
Agreed, -funny how that works, isn't it? In addition to that, people in the US want to push a mouse around all day, not work on a production floor casting and machining metal parts. While there is something to that, -it also defines why things are the way they are. If nobody wants to do it, then don't bitch about it being done in other countries...
the first gen ve44 and 24 valve 2nd gen vp44 covers use the stepped side of that tab. the p7100 injection pump covers in the 1994-1998 2nd gens use the flat side.
The part that got damaged is on the inside of the cover, its just an oil wiper and would have settled down over the crank once warm oil hit it. The yellowish part is the Teflon or PTFE "seal" and it looked fine to me. YMMV
While the pump is off install a m&h timing spacer, m&h m2 or m3 fuel pin, 3200 or 3600rpm gov spring, and bump up the timing one tooth, will make a massive difference and save you a time of time down the line
For what reason would you want to change gov spring? Also timing please explain, is there a reason if you just prefere low en torque. I pretty much never rev mine over 2500
Ape Hoaxman the dynamic timing spacer increases the travel of the ksb witch improves low end torque and too top end power by advancing the timing with rpm increase, the timing advanced one tooth is right about 10* advance witch is perfect for the best torque and top end, the gov spring improves the power band at all rpm not just giving you more rpm but giving max fuel flow through more of the rpm range. even if your only revving to 2600rpm the stock spring starts restricting fuel flow around 2000/2200.
Greg you ever installed an Amsoil Dual bypass oil filtration kit? I put 1 in on my Customers 2003 Ford powerstroke 6.0. A lot of fabrication of brackets and replaced hose with lengths of 1/2 inch galvanized pipe. Anyway came back 2 weeks later to do window motor in same guys minivan. Pulled dipstick to check oil and damn if it was as clear as newly poured oil. Used Castrol full synthetic 20 50 w and truck had 136k miles Fyi. Impressive system.
There's also a couple of bolts behind the front cover that sometimes tend to back out after a while . I think there's two behind the cam gear that can cause some serious issues
Reseal or change the tappet cover and gasket before you put back together so you won't have to pull pump off again when they leak. And they always leak
HELP I have a 1993 w250 12 valve. I replaced the oil pump with a 24 valve pump but i didn't prime it. I pulled the oil pressure regulator near the filter and put in half a qt of oil. I was able to get the pump to prime and produce pressure and ran it for 15 min. I came back an hr later and started the truck and lost prime again so I repeated my process and regained pressure. once again I shut it down and came back 30 min later and again NO oil pressure. do you have any idea what could be causing this issue? any help would be greatly appreciated. Show less REPLY
you mean mama's best good shovel from Johnny sendit doesn't have a curved 13mm setting for workin on a ve pump LMAO!? Our man Johnny sendit can make MacGyver scratch his head I'm pretty sure
Johnny Sendit yeah buddy, I'm a cheap ass like no other so if I can make it or use somethin the way it shouldn't be to get the job done well hell yes! That's my favorite part of life is "presidential engineering" things to get by until the correct part can be found. I didn't see Greg as the wrench bendin sorta fellar but by god it's in all of us, I was glad to see him put the sendit adjustment on a good wrench lol. take care bud, look forward to the twins sendit install this weekend
I see that oil pump is unfortunately made in China, is Cummins sourcing out their parts now from China ?? After all, it's just an oil pump, what could go wrong !!
You don't need a curved wrench for that hard to reach nut*. A combination of extensions and the right sized (length & thickness), socket will work with a ratchet. That's on a P7100 as well so there's significantly less room to work with.
Awesome video Greg that's the coolest looking KDP repair part I've seen it looks like a major heavy duty part it should last the life of the motor easy lol
I don't ever comment on videos and you probably won't even read this but if you do WHAT IS YOUR DAY JOB! I have watched almost all you videos and it never says what you normal job is. One video you stated you went to wyotech so I'm assuming you are some form of diesel mechanic. Just interested
Waste of money! All you have to do is stake the dowel in there. To stake or dimple the housing, use a center punch or chisel to cause a burr in the hole. Then the dowel cannot vibrate out the front. Done this hundreds of times, although I have never seen a dowel even remotely close to coming out. I mostly work on industrial and marine engines though.
jeffdoxey Mine was nowhere close to coming out when I tabbed mine, either. Staking it is a good idea. It seems I'd heard of that before. I simply took an old sawzall blade and cut a properly sized and shaped tab out of it with my plasma cutter, then used the original bolt (after cleaning it and the hole and applying loctite) to install it. I don't see that there is any type of force trying to push that dowel pin out. If there was, they wouldn't make it off the lot before they fell out. They simply vibrate out. So, like you said, that chunk of billet is overkill. I wish I had thought of staking mine when I did it. My method didn't really cost me anything but the few minutes spent making the tab and swabbing out the bolt hole to prep it for the loctite, but your method would've been a lot quicker and wouldn't have even required removing that bolt to begin with.
I'm getting ready to do a 12v swap in my 02 ram 1500 and I want lots of power and torque what parts should I get and how to go about it I've never messed with diesels before just gas motors love the channel
Hey Greg. I really love your videos. I started watching them ever since I started wondering what a 6.4 was. I was wondering if you would be able to do a video explaining all the measurements and options that come with buying a turbo. I'd really appreciate it. Keep up the good work. By the way I'm looking for a turbo for my p-pumped 1st gen.
Hey Greg I love the content and the knowledge being shared! I was wondering if you knew off the top of your head which tool box you have in the tow truck?
THIRTY BUCKS? -HAH, got mine for under 6 bux shipped from China . . . don't be suckers y'all, save your money. Of course, I bet they didn't make these overseas when the video was made. Either way YES, get one of these instead; cheaper than the "original" tin can junk.
Love the 12 Valves.......I have a question, do you add anything to the fuel for the older trucks? In Alaska we add MMO, just curious as I've heard folks add numerous items to the fuel for lubricity. Two stroke oil, ATF, ? Thanks, M
I've used that too, seems to be good, I'm just wondering if there is any science behind these products and what might work the best for the life of the engine. ;-)
The flat one if it ever fell out would most likely go into the pan. that big billet piece falls out its going to shred some shit.... I wouldn't put that in my motor....
why does it need the pin? it seems useless. not a cummins guy don't burn me at the stake. bonus question: if cummins are so durable why are parts and the engines themselves so expensive? I thought parts would be abundant and cheap like LS motors.
Hello fellow 12V Cummins friends... hopefully someone can help me with my question.. I live in the great state of Texas and it gets really hot in summers. I am in search of the a/c cycling switch for my 93 first gen cummins...does anyone know where i can find one? I have looked online.. but results have been negative.
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
The keyway is the slot that the woodruff key sits in
All the stepped cases I have seen have a step machined over the dowel to prevent it from walking/vibrating out
I know it may sound dumb, but DO NOT disconnect those injector lines from each other. They may look like they can only go one way, it is really easy to skip one line on the pump and it will not run. Ask me how I know. 😐
Been there done that, damaging that seal is the worst
263k hard miles on my 12 valve, KDP isn't tabbed. Still gonna send it
Good luck :) Lmao
Just tabbed mine after 315k 97 12...pin was out about .010 beyond face...rip kdp!
they should have had a recall for that dowel pin issue
Woulda been a cheap fix for them
3802820 seal would've come with a wear sleeve.
Big thanks again Greg!
-Lance
ThinAir Diesel I will be making an order with you shortly!
ThinAir Diesel Another Montanan!! I'm from Great Falls. Good to know we have a diesel shop that knows what they're doing here.
Thank you!
Thanks! I use to be in Gfunk a couple years back. I put in about 5 years at the Kenworth shop. Did this stuff on the side including in house EFI tuning on the 06-09 dodges back then.
@thinairdiesel funny finding ya here. you actually came and worked on my dad's kenworrh in boulder, MT haha
front wear sleeve? didn't lock the pump?
you forgot to lock the pump out!
No need on the VE. They are keyed.
I'd change that tappet cover gasket while the pump is off
Paint the cover
Air dog for pap scrappy??
your there you should do the water pump
Ha lance galpin that's great to see parts all the way out there
You are RIGHT! keep trudging through it!
4Xprops !
Disappointed I didn't see your custom wrench in actin....LOL
How did the oil seal workout did it leak.
New pump from Cummins......made in CHYNA.... WTF?!?!?!?!?!?
I must have missed the $30 billet part to save my Cummins?
Why are you working on the ground ! get a small Table with big casters and mount the pieces of equipment that you use from time to time on it. This way you can move it around where you need it. !
Made in China oil pump!?!? What's up Cummins?
I was disappointed when I saw that
I agree with you 110%. With that said, we did it to ourselves, things are so overly regulated and taxed here that it is next to impossible to compete with countries like China, India, and Taiwan. Hopefully things get back to a "common sense" balance with the new administration and companies will be able to bring some jobs back to this country. You really can't hold this against Cummins, -Cat has been manufacturing in China for quite a few years now as well. Lastly, the products coming from over there are getting to be really scary good, -we should pay attention to that because it means that we are falling behind as a manufacturing country.
i think in a decade or two africa will be making things. lots of poor ppl who need jobs. jobs=money money=all necessities.
Agreed, -funny how that works, isn't it? In addition to that, people in the US want to push a mouse around all day, not work on a production floor casting and machining metal parts. While there is something to that, -it also defines why things are the way they are. If nobody wants to do it, then don't bitch about it being done in other countries...
How did the oil pump hold up? Any issues over time?
Don't put a mechanical fan on there, put a fidget spinner on the shaft.
LOL
the first gen ve44 and 24 valve 2nd gen vp44 covers use the stepped side of that tab. the p7100 injection pump covers in the 1994-1998 2nd gens use the flat side.
The part that got damaged is on the inside of the cover, its just an oil wiper and would have settled down over the crank once warm oil hit it. The yellowish part is the Teflon or PTFE "seal" and it looked fine to me. YMMV
If your crank has a groove in it cummins has a heavy duty wear sleeve and front seal kit part # 3802820.
Greg be like oil filters are stupid i bought the parts to delete that too
Delete everything lol
Less weight = More speed!! LOL
While the pump is off install a m&h timing spacer, m&h m2 or m3 fuel pin, 3200 or 3600rpm gov spring, and bump up the timing one tooth, will make a massive difference and save you a time of time down the line
For what reason would you want to change gov spring? Also timing please explain, is there a reason if you just prefere low en torque. I pretty much never rev mine over 2500
Ape Hoaxman the dynamic timing spacer increases the travel of the ksb witch improves low end torque and too top end power by advancing the timing with rpm increase, the timing advanced one tooth is right about 10* advance witch is perfect for the best torque and top end, the gov spring improves the power band at all rpm not just giving you more rpm but giving max fuel flow through more of the rpm range. even if your only revving to 2600rpm the stock spring starts restricting fuel flow around 2000/2200.
If you want to contact me vea Facebook or Instagram (slo_12v) I'd be more then happy to go into more detail and share my experience
I used red rtv on mine and actually used the gasket and used rtv on the bolt instead of locktight
Greg you ever installed an Amsoil Dual bypass oil filtration kit? I put 1 in on my Customers 2003 Ford powerstroke 6.0. A lot of fabrication of brackets and replaced hose with lengths of 1/2 inch galvanized pipe. Anyway came back 2 weeks later to do window motor in same guys minivan. Pulled dipstick to check oil and damn if it was as clear as newly poured oil. Used Castrol full synthetic 20 50 w and truck had 136k miles Fyi. Impressive system.
The new oil pump has different gearing. The pumps cog is smaller, the drive/idler pulley is bigger, more RPM = more flow.
Paint the front cover before you put it on, also maybe replace the water pump since it is right in front paint it also
You are the man Greg!
There's also a couple of bolts behind the front cover that sometimes tend to back out after a while . I think there's two behind the cam gear that can cause some serious issues
Dang, I DO hope you replaced that water pump while you had the whole front end open. Just sayin'
Reseal or change the tappet cover and gasket before you put back together so you won't have to pull pump off again when they leak. And they always leak
Where do you get your AN fitting and hose
Jegs or Summit usually
do the gov spring and and timing spacer while it's out they are easy but would be cake with the pump on the bench
Good advice at the end.
Great tune
HELP
I have a 1993 w250 12 valve. I replaced the oil pump with a 24 valve pump but i didn't prime it. I pulled the oil pressure regulator near the filter and put in half a qt of oil. I was able to get the pump to prime and produce pressure and ran it for 15 min. I came back an hr later and started the truck and lost prime again so I repeated my process and regained pressure. once again I shut it down and came back 30 min later and again NO oil pressure. do you have any idea what could be causing this issue?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Show less
REPLY
My goal for to tomorrow its to cut off cylinder 6 for a cleaner look haha
I know that this is grandpa scrap truck but I'm really sad your not making this thing prettier under the hood 😔
I just used a piece of coat hanger to keep my KDP in my firstgen, there no force behind that dowel pin its just to stop it from vibrating out.
Love the videos. Just bought a 12v with all the same issues as this truck! Now I just need a parts list!
I'm glad to see I'm not the only person that uses a torque wrench. The guys I work with think torque specs involve an impact gun! Love the videos.
Made in China oil pump?
At the end I was waiting to hear "keep moving forward" okay TJ hunt lol!
not the place i thought id see a comment like that lol
way to keep going! Silly mains...
you mean mama's best good shovel from Johnny sendit doesn't have a curved 13mm setting for workin on a ve pump LMAO!? Our man Johnny sendit can make MacGyver scratch his head I'm pretty sure
i saw a little big of myself in greg in this video, makes me proud hahaha
Johnny Sendit yeah buddy, I'm a cheap ass like no other so if I can make it or use somethin the way it shouldn't be to get the job done well hell yes! That's my favorite part of life is "presidential engineering" things to get by until the correct part can be found. I didn't see Greg as the wrench bendin sorta fellar but by god it's in all of us, I was glad to see him put the sendit adjustment on a good wrench lol. take care bud, look forward to the twins sendit install this weekend
I see that oil pump is unfortunately made in China, is Cummins sourcing out their parts now from China ?? After all, it's just an oil pump, what could go wrong !!
every morning :)
While your down there you should change out the gigawat in the flux capacitor for better windshield washer flow
Put the wheels on the trucks!
Where's no boost
What’s with the monkey music?
P Pump swap it
Nice job, Now I want to work on my First Gen
Turn the fuel pin up
I hope that was a snap-on wrench
You don't need a curved wrench for that hard to reach nut*. A combination of extensions and the right sized (length & thickness), socket will work with a ratchet. That's on a P7100 as well so there's significantly less room to work with.
this channel was the final push for me to buy a cummins, even though i probably shouldn't of.
thank you Greg. : )
Thin Air Diesel is in Butte, MT that's awesome! Great informal videos Greg.
Awesome video Greg that's the coolest looking KDP repair part I've seen it looks like a major heavy duty part it should last the life of the motor easy lol
instaBlaster...
I don't ever comment on videos and you probably won't even read this but if you do WHAT IS YOUR DAY JOB! I have watched almost all you videos and it never says what you normal job is. One video you stated you went to wyotech so I'm assuming you are some form of diesel mechanic. Just interested
little bit of Déjà vu at 8:00
Waste of money! All you have to do is stake the dowel in there. To stake or dimple the housing, use a center punch or chisel to cause a burr in the hole. Then the dowel cannot vibrate out the front. Done this hundreds of times, although I have never seen a dowel even remotely close to coming out. I mostly work on industrial and marine engines though.
jeffdoxey
Mine was nowhere close to coming out when I tabbed mine, either. Staking it is a good idea. It seems I'd heard of that before. I simply took an old sawzall blade and cut a properly sized and shaped tab out of it with my plasma cutter, then used the original bolt (after cleaning it and the hole and applying loctite) to install it.
I don't see that there is any type of force trying to push that dowel pin out. If there was, they wouldn't make it off the lot before they fell out. They simply vibrate out. So, like you said, that chunk of billet is overkill. I wish I had thought of staking mine when I did it. My method didn't really cost me anything but the few minutes spent making the tab and swabbing out the bolt hole to prep it for the loctite, but your method would've been a lot quicker and wouldn't have even required removing that bolt to begin with.
I'm getting ready to do a 12v swap in my 02 ram 1500 and I want lots of power and torque what parts should I get and how to go about it I've never messed with diesels before just gas motors love the channel
Do pump upgrades with it off. So much easier to do with it out of the truck!
Nice!
Hey Greg. I really love your videos. I started watching them ever since I started wondering what a 6.4 was. I was wondering if you would be able to do a video explaining all the measurements and options that come with buying a turbo. I'd really appreciate it. Keep up the good work. By the way I'm looking for a turbo for my p-pumped 1st gen.
*OGDP* = original gangsta dowel pin?
oil pump made in CHINA???
Cummins parts are made all over the world.
am i the only one freaking out about why he hasnt painted the front cover???? like his triple turbod truck???
look up the diesel stop injection pump mod on you tube
What happend to the New wheels & tires installation vid on the 1st and 3rd gen?
My kdp came out 2 days ago and cracked my case really bad
Are you going to put a p7100 on it
It's hotter then hell in AZ right now, but thanks for helping me get off my ass and get my truck finished.
Hey Greg I love the content and the knowledge being shared!
I was wondering if you knew off the top of your head which tool box you have in the tow truck?
THIRTY BUCKS? -HAH, got mine for under 6 bux shipped from China . . . don't be suckers y'all, save your money. Of course, I bet they didn't make these overseas when the video was made. Either way YES, get one of these instead; cheaper than the "original" tin can junk.
Ummmm....I thought it was mostly 1st gens vs 2nd gens....after the 00's they are not as big of a problem. Right?
Love the 12 Valves.......I have a question, do you add anything to the fuel for the older trucks? In Alaska we add MMO, just curious as I've heard folks add numerous items to the fuel for lubricity. Two stroke oil, ATF, ?
Thanks, M
MFB Alaska In my duramax I just throw in Stanadyne cause I get it cheap. Shits great
I've used that too, seems to be good, I'm just wondering if there is any science behind these products and what might work the best for the life of the engine. ;-)
why did it look to me like I could have gotten a impact on that 13mm....lol
The flat one if it ever fell out would most likely go into the pan. that big billet piece falls out its going to shred some shit.... I wouldn't put that in my motor....
👍👍
hey man like your videos. I was wondering if you're going to East Coast Diesel Nationals this year. seen the triple turbo there last year.
That oil pump said China. UGH!!!
FUCKING CHINA PUMP WTF!!!
cummins made in china whats going on trump i voted for u
I'm sure you get this question all the time but what should I expect to pay for a used first or second gen Cummins to swap into my obs chevy 2500
P pump that beauty
number 8 to like this video lol love your videos man keep them coming lol
why does it need the pin? it seems useless. not a cummins guy don't burn me at the stake.
bonus question: if cummins are so durable why are parts and the engines themselves so expensive? I thought parts would be abundant and cheap like LS motors.
David Vermillion they are cheap compared to powerstroke and duramax motor parts
p7100 swap it
Hello fellow 12V Cummins friends... hopefully someone can help me with my question.. I live in the great state of Texas and it gets really hot in summers. I am in search of the a/c cycling switch for my 93 first gen cummins...does anyone know where i can find one? I have looked online.. but results have been negative.
Cmon' Greg, coulda just cut your own out. Send it style!
Made in China??!!!!!!!
I'd call it innovative man. Have to just find a way to get stuff done sometimes.