Just an opinion, you should also put a dab of hot glue on the potentiomet knob as to fix it on 3.3V as to prevent it from turning and increasing the output voltage.
I am just getting into solar using a Bluetti 200 and want to say THANK YOU for your humble approach to teaching us. I taught high school math for years and the kids would have loved having you as a teacher. I'm down in San Diego and would love to see your shop someday. I have family up in San Bernardino.
This is just what i been waiting on.Hope u can show us how to hookup too multiple batterys too make a powerwall battery and im all in!Great videos man i like your style!
For next version, extend the board a bit longer. and allow 2 holes on each side next to the entry/exit cables (before the solder points). where you would put a cable zip. now you have no pull strength at all on those.. they would rip right off if you pull.
I think you could use a Digispark. It is much smaller and there are knock offs that are very cheap. A simple 3.3v regulator and a pair of resisitors as a voltage divider would work and be simple.
Great Stuff! I already ordered x1 Dongle from Jag35, think i want to make a x2 version at home since i have arduinos and buck converters laying around... Just wondering where can i find the round battery connector end or what is it called? It looks like the one used in the video may be harvested, but im sure if you are making and selling dongles, there has to be a source for them? thanks!
@@jehugarcia de.farnell.com/microchip/mic5233-3-3ym5-tr/ldo-0-27vdo-0-1a-3-3v-2-5sot23/dp/2510274 One of these, 2.3-36v to 3.3v. This one coasts only 1€ but you can take another one if you want
@@Fuchs_Fuchs This is not good advice. You would dissipate way too much power in that small package, probably triggering a thermal shutdown or desoldering it.
@@jehugarcia bike. What I mean is those skooters,had some kind of display and a charger are those item's available? I was thinking of a plug and play setup. I want to use some of those wheel hubmotor combos to make some ebikes on a budget
You said FTDA cable did you mean FTDI. an Amazon link would be helpful. Been having communication problems with the arduino nano, not keeping the battery alive on heavy loads. Now I have purchased the pro board to see if that was the issue.. (puzzling is the nano runs the program but doesn't work to keep the battery on when hooked up? I'm also running a step down as well)...Still cuts out
That worked with the pro board and the FTDI cable. I'm new to Arduino programming. So if your like me, make sure you have admin. privileges turned on..or it will not save to the PCB
I do not know electronics very well , so I had to buy the old programmed chip with resistors from jehu. But I haven’t bought the dc dc converter yet, he suggested an $9 one from digikey? So with this new set up can I just use the dc dc buck converter he uses with the new chip on the old chip, if so do I need the resistors? Thx
how do i charge multiple scooter batteries im making a 72v ebike do i need multiple batteries chargers or can i use one but it will take longer ? new to all this
I'm using the scooter battery as a part of my boosted board and the PCB works while charging the battery but not when the battery is connected to my hoverboard hove motor. Any tips??
Does anyone know what the pulse current requirement is to activate the board in the battery there are self flashing 3 volt LEDs that will provide the one second pulse whether or not they have the current capacity is what matters and of course you'd have to use a voltage divider couple of resistors to get it down to 3 volts but no Arduino required no extra parts three parts couple of resistors in the LED just need to know what the current level is
Question for you...I bought the HP PCB boards from you and it really goes together very easy. When populating the boards you always suggest using similar capacity cells on each board. My question is if I have a range of say 2500 mAh cells up to say 3000 mAh cells if I use re-packer the program will group cells to get each board of 7 cells to have similar capacity. Is this the wrong approach Jehu???
Hi Heju. I got a question. I am new to this scooters. I have some Akai scooters that they are lock, they have this battery, 13INR19/66-5 48V16Ah- 768Wh. If I get this controller this will I still have to get "Motor Brushless Controller with Rainproof LCD Display"? or this modification will by pass the lock. sorry I am new to this word.
Hold on, can i charge the battery using the Dongle as well? via the bigger port?, i connected the battery to the charger using the dongle, i did see the charger (charger with the XT90) go red and the dongle light up but i dont want to break anything LOL
Jason, why are you using an Arduino when it is so easy to make a LED blink, the circuit is very simple. do a search for LED flasher on youtube. the other board you're using is called a buck converter, it can lower the voltage from you supply. mike
I have 4 scooter batteries and purchased 3 dongles, two X1 dongles and one X4 dongle. Problem is none of the dongles are waking up my batteries. I started out by using a X1 dongle with my 42V 1.8A charger to charge each battery separately and on the first battery the dongle overheated and shut down and no longer works. I used the other X1 dongle to charge all 4 batteries being careful to monitor the process to be sure that there would not be another overheating issue and there wasn’t! So did I receive a defective dongle? However, none of the batteries woke from hybernation via the dongle! I was able to wake two of the batteries by jumping the batter using two wires from my charger to the positive, negative of the small connector of the battery. The other two will not wake! Anyone have any ideas?
Probably already noted by someone else, but why not just override the circuitry on the battery control board. Surely it is an adjuct circuit that could just be defeated.
Will this board or the faust one work with two modules in series (72v) and then in parallel? Am I correct in assuming these modules are weather resistant?
Yes I’m guessing u set up 2 chips if u want 2 in parrelel then to put those two in series Or can you use one chip and feed 4 batteries and then use 2 in parallel And then put those two in series? Kinda guessing one may work??? Cuz it just turns on the batterys ??? If don’t use the battery for awhile will these discharge the batteries ??? Thanks for help, thoughts , ideas
I checked the sketch file for enabling this scooter battery, it only used serial.write() function. I believe that it will also works properly in ATTiny85. BTW, the working voltage of ATTiny85 is from 2.7V to 5.5V, so you could use 3.3V without any problem.
You could use Arduino IDE to write your code, just like Arduino. There is no TX/RX pin in ATTiny85, so you couldn't use Serial.write() function directly. But you could use any of pins in ATTiny85 as TX pin, and including SoftwareSerial.h then it will works for this project.
HELP Requried from someone Smarter than me - Hello, so I bought 4 batteries from Jehu and possibly foolishly as I had one good connector for the discharge lead, I have charged them up with a 42v charger. On removing the power the discharge lead only reads 3.7 Volts - Anyone any clue as to what’s wrong and why it’s not 42V ??
Why not work with the person who sent you the tiny pcb, send out the drawings and specs to the pcb manufacturer like easy pcb or JLC pcb and they will populate all the smd's .
@@jehugarcia That's why I watch your channel, man. You are all about moving the knowledge forward, others such as myself learn so much more from this process you document rather than just buying a product that was developed behind closed doors. Seriously I found your channel when you were doing great things in Puerto Rico and I have been here ever since. Thanks!
I realize that some have to time to learn how to do this and that it may take some business away from jehu, (I’m sure selling more batteries would be a better profit margin than small electronics ) but a lot of us are still electronically challenged and time limited and would appreciate a small rugged ready To go package. If we could get the persons email to see if he is interested or a website that might have them ready to go in nice small packageI would be Interested Cheers
Couple of suggestions: Use a linear regulator for the power, which will only need 2 additional capacitors (maybe a S-1142D33I-E6T1U). Site the input/output wire connections next to each other - lower resistance. Also you could use an ATtiny85 microprocessor - a little more involved to program, but very small. If you use the linear regulator and ATtiny85, it could fit on a 2 inch board!
@@jehugarcia Well, a simple series resistor would vary its output, but a Linear Regulator is an active device which is designed to hold the voltage constant. eg it's a true Regulator. And please don't call it a "DC to DC". It's a "DC to DC Converter". "DC to DC" sounds dumb,.
That is way too much voltage to drop on a small linear regulator. You would run into thermal issues. A cheap DC/DC to 5V (like the module you already used) and a linear regulator to 3.3V would give great results. I would add a 10uF and 1uF cap to the 3.3V line for some broad band decoupling
Hello sir , I have a challenge for you . I would like you too build waterproof 2000 watt battery pack . I saw one for sale on indiegogo. But only 1000 watt . I will pay for parts . If you accept the challenge.
@@swormser865 Jehu uses one to turn on 10 packs at once in this video. then you can parallel or series as needed th-cam.com/video/UmXgEoOm5y8/w-d-xo.html
Hi... I just received my 2 units I ordered from you. I’m reading about 15.5 VDC each one. Should I be concerned about their state? I thought they cut out in their 20 + vdc and shouldn’t be so low.
SO far so good ... It is showing 32 vdc, and it is taking a charge! I'll test the second one tomorrow, and I will see if I can do something with the Arduino code, or possibly use a new $4 raspberry pi pico with MicroPython which might be easier for coding since its more drag and drop and cool and new ;)
What I like about you is you always find a solution. You should have been a school teacher.
Just an opinion, you should also put a dab of hot glue on the potentiomet knob as to fix it on 3.3V as to prevent it from turning and increasing the output voltage.
We used to use a liquid called Glyptol to do this in production
instablaster...
It feels so good that we are one part of your Batteries' stuff!
Jehu, those pins are called header pins and typically have a 0.1" spacing. There are other header pins available with different spacings.
I am just getting into solar using a Bluetti 200 and want to say THANK YOU for your humble approach to teaching us. I taught high school math for years and the kids would have loved having you as a teacher. I'm down in San Diego and would love to see your shop someday. I have family up in San Bernardino.
This is just what i been waiting on.Hope u can show us how to hookup too multiple batterys too make a powerwall battery and im all in!Great videos man i like your style!
Dude you're amazing! Thank you for your open source approach to business, it's greatly appreciated =)
I love this channel. You are doing great. Take the jump into prebuilt boards man you are a natural.
“This is how you learn, you just do it!”” Truer words have never been spoken!!
Fear of failure is just as bad as lack of ambition
For next version, extend the board a bit longer. and allow 2 holes on each side next to the entry/exit cables (before the solder points). where you would put a cable zip. now you have no pull strength at all on those.. they would rip right off if you pull.
I think you could use a Digispark. It is much smaller and there are knock offs that are very cheap. A simple 3.3v regulator and a pair of resisitors as a voltage divider would work and be simple.
Благодарю за проделанную работу!
Lm2596 works really great Sir. 👍
Well done! Good use of software to design.
This is very cool...and educational.
Youre so cyberpunk, you need a jacket with tons of pockets to carry all your cool things
The LM2596HVS is a better fit (60V max). Max supply voltage is only 40V on the LM2596S version.
You could have just soldered the xt60 connector directly to the 'pcbway' board. Then you don't have to make an xt60 pigtail cable.
Great video
You can use a linear voltage regulator since the power draw is so low. It will be smaller and cheaper.
You can solder smd components by hand some ppl might need microscope and steady hand
Hi, Would this PCB also work with the ES-400 battery ? If yes, would it also be the battery blue wire to be connected to the board ?
My ES200G dongle no longer works. Any ideas what may have happened and how to fix it . Appreciate the help.
Great Stuff! I already ordered x1 Dongle from Jag35, think i want to make a x2 version at home since i have arduinos and buck converters laying around... Just wondering where can i find the round battery connector end or what is it called? It looks like the one used in the video may be harvested, but im sure if you are making and selling dongles, there has to be a source for them? thanks!
good
The Buck converter is a bit overkill for just an arduino
How would you provide the 3.3v?
@@jehugarcia de.farnell.com/microchip/mic5233-3-3ym5-tr/ldo-0-27vdo-0-1a-3-3v-2-5sot23/dp/2510274
One of these, 2.3-36v to 3.3v. This one coasts only 1€ but you can take another one if you want
@@Fuchs_Fuchs This is not good advice. You would dissipate way too much power in that small package, probably triggering a thermal shutdown or desoldering it.
Just wondering have you contacted the company that made the scooter maybe make a deal ?if you could use the whole factory setup that would be awesome
We can use them now, we don’t need permission from anyone
@@jehugarcia bike. What I mean is those skooters,had some kind of display and a charger are those item's available? I was thinking of a plug and play setup. I want to use some of those wheel hubmotor combos to make some ebikes on a budget
When are you going to get the scooters for sale?
You said FTDA cable did you mean FTDI. an Amazon link would be helpful.
Been having communication problems with the arduino nano, not keeping the battery alive on heavy loads. Now I have purchased the pro board to see if that was the issue..
(puzzling is the nano runs the program but doesn't work to keep the battery on when hooked up? I'm also running a step down as well)...Still cuts out
That worked with the pro board and the FTDI cable. I'm new to Arduino programming. So if your like me, make sure you have admin. privileges turned on..or it will not save to the PCB
I do not know electronics very well , so I had to buy the old programmed chip with resistors from jehu. But I haven’t bought the dc dc converter yet, he suggested an $9 one from digikey? So with this new set up can I just use the dc dc buck converter he uses with the new chip on the old chip, if so do I need the resistors?
Thx
Be careful when shipping your module. The potentiometer could change of value and there for burn the microcontroller.
how do i charge multiple scooter batteries im making a 72v ebike do i need multiple batteries chargers or can i use one but it will take longer ? new to all this
Can you charge by just applying 42v at the same connector?
yes
I'm using the scooter battery as a part of my boosted board and the PCB works while charging the battery but not when the battery is connected to my hoverboard hove motor. Any tips??
nice! hair cut
Surface or through-hole mounted components can be attached to PCBs in the USA. No need to go to China especially during these turbulent times.
Is the Arduino code available somewhere ?
Does anyone know what the pulse current requirement is to activate the board in the battery there are self flashing 3 volt LEDs that will provide the one second pulse whether or not they have the current capacity is what matters and of course you'd have to use a voltage divider couple of resistors to get it down to 3 volts but no Arduino required no extra parts three parts couple of resistors in the LED just need to know what the current level is
Think there use to be a timer ic 555? Chip? Could that just open a gate to let 3v in every 5 seconds or so? No programming needed?
Question for you...I bought the HP PCB boards from you and it really goes together very easy. When populating the boards you always suggest using similar capacity cells on each board. My question is if I have a range of say 2500 mAh cells up to say 3000 mAh cells if I use re-packer the program will group cells to get each board of 7 cells to have similar capacity. Is this the wrong approach Jehu???
Repakr doesn’t work for this application. Just match the cells per board that’s easier
Hi Heju. I got a question. I am new to this scooters. I have some Akai scooters that they are lock, they have this battery, 13INR19/66-5 48V16Ah- 768Wh. If I get this controller this will I still have to get "Motor Brushless Controller with Rainproof LCD Display"? or this modification will by pass the lock. sorry I am new to this word.
No idea
is the signal a solid 3.3v or is it a pulse?
Did I hear it right you set 2.3v for the 3.3v chip?
Hold on, can i charge the battery using the Dongle as well? via the bigger port?, i connected the battery to the charger using the dongle, i did see the charger (charger with the XT90) go red and the dongle light up but i dont want to break anything LOL
They are called header pins
Jason, why are you using an Arduino when it is so easy to make a LED blink, the circuit is very simple. do a search for LED flasher on youtube. the other board you're using is called a buck converter, it can lower the voltage from you supply. mike
Who’s Jason ?
I have 4 scooter batteries and purchased 3 dongles, two X1 dongles and one X4 dongle. Problem is none of the dongles are waking up my batteries. I started out by using a X1 dongle with my 42V 1.8A charger to charge each battery separately and on the first battery the dongle overheated and shut down and no longer works. I used the other X1 dongle to charge all 4 batteries being careful to monitor the process to be sure that there would not be another overheating issue and there wasn’t! So did I receive a defective dongle?
However, none of the batteries woke from hybernation via the dongle! I was able to wake two of the batteries by jumping the batter using two wires from my charger to the positive, negative of the small connector of the battery. The other two will not wake!
Anyone have any ideas?
Probably already noted by someone else, but why not just override the circuitry on the battery control board. Surely it is an adjuct circuit that could just be defeated.
Because you would have to saw the casing of every battery pack instead of leaving them as is and just use them
@@jehugarcia I see. I hadn't seen the video where you are harvesting the batteries, but just watched it. Too much work.
Are you going to sell any more of those??
Yes they should be in stock soon is not now
Will this board or the faust one work with two modules in series (72v) and then in parallel? Am I correct in assuming these modules are weather resistant?
I’m also interested in using these at 72v. Maybe 2 parallel @72v. Appreciate any suggestions, thx
@@swormser865 Have you seen his video on 72v ebike battery/1800w ? It did not answer all my questions but I hope it will answer yours.
Yes I’m guessing u set up 2 chips if u want 2 in parrelel then to put those two in series
Or can you use one chip and feed 4 batteries and then use 2 in parallel
And then put those two in series? Kinda guessing one may work???
Cuz it just turns on the batterys ???
If don’t use the battery for awhile will these discharge the batteries ???
Thanks for help, thoughts , ideas
Hi, Jehu. You could try out ATTiny85. It's smaller than Aruino.
I like this idea, it would cut the cost significantly if you did not require the extra features of the Atmega328 etc.
I checked the sketch file for enabling this scooter battery, it only used serial.write() function. I believe that it will also works properly in ATTiny85. BTW, the working voltage of ATTiny85 is from 2.7V to 5.5V, so you could use 3.3V without any problem.
You could use Arduino IDE to write your code, just like Arduino. There is no TX/RX pin in ATTiny85, so you couldn't use Serial.write() function directly. But you could use any of pins in ATTiny85 as TX pin, and including SoftwareSerial.h then it will works for this project.
HELP Requried from someone Smarter than me -
Hello, so I bought 4 batteries from Jehu and possibly foolishly as I had one good connector for the discharge lead, I have charged them up with a 42v charger.
On removing the power the discharge lead only reads 3.7 Volts - Anyone any clue as to what’s wrong and why it’s not 42V ??
for design you could've stacked it for more compact design one top one bottom. And no need for pins just solder directly board to board
V2
Will these be back in stock at JAG35?
Yes
Where did you get the smaller board ?
can't you make a board and put it on the original board? it looks big enough to have an ad on board.
We don’t want to modify the batteries, it’s a lot of work removing them from the case
Can you doo one for the es400 battery's?
im trying to buy these but cant place an order
Why?
@@jehugarcia got them 🙏🏽 thank you!!!
10:57 I thought you designed the battery holders....????
I did, on a napkin then Justin drew it up on eagle
Use the ATmega168 it's even cheaper by the dozen
Is it safe to charge 4 batteries in parallel using the discharge ports?
14:41 - those are header pins my dude.
It won't work on all the batteries if they have more update firmware that's been flashed within the past year.
Why not work with the person who sent you the tiny pcb, send out the drawings and specs to the pcb manufacturer like easy pcb or JLC pcb and they will populate all the smd's .
Because I don’t want to depend on someone else to get this piece, I rather learn to make one and teach you how to make your own.
@@jehugarcia That's why I watch your channel, man. You are all about moving the knowledge forward, others such as myself learn so much more from this process you document rather than just buying a product that was developed behind closed doors. Seriously I found your channel when you were doing great things in Puerto Rico and I have been here ever since. Thanks!
I realize that some have to time to learn how to do this and that it may take some business away from jehu, (I’m sure selling more batteries would be a better profit margin than small electronics ) but a lot of us are still electronically challenged and time limited and would appreciate a small rugged ready To go package. If we could get the persons email to see if he is interested or a website that might have them ready to go in nice small packageI would be Interested
Cheers
Couple of suggestions: Use a linear regulator for the power, which will only need 2 additional capacitors (maybe a S-1142D33I-E6T1U). Site the input/output wire connections next to each other - lower resistance. Also you could use an ATtiny85 microprocessor - a little more involved to program, but very small. If you use the linear regulator and ATtiny85, it could fit on a 2 inch board!
Won’t linear regulator vary output due to varying input?
@@jehugarcia Well, a simple series resistor would vary its output, but a Linear Regulator is an active device which is designed to hold the voltage constant. eg it's a true Regulator.
And please don't call it a "DC to DC". It's a "DC to DC Converter". "DC to DC" sounds dumb,.
@@jehugarcia Like Graeme says, it regulates the voltage to 3.3v, no matter what input voltage/load.
That is way too much voltage to drop on a small linear regulator. You would run into thermal issues. A cheap DC/DC to 5V (like the module you already used) and a linear regulator to 3.3V would give great results. I would add a 10uF and 1uF cap to the 3.3V line for some broad band decoupling
@@Galeere2 That regulator I suggested can tolerate 50v. and up to 700mA, so the draw of the Pro Mini would be no problem
Hello sir , I have a challenge for you . I would like you too build waterproof 2000 watt battery pack . I saw one for sale on indiegogo. But only 1000 watt . I will pay for parts . If you accept the challenge.
So there has to be one of these controllers per battery?
no, you can parallel several. Jehu has video showing that
Can u then parallel two with one Arduino, then put two more in series? For 72v and just need two arduinos? Or one? Cheers
@@swormser865 Jehu uses one to turn on 10 packs at once in this video. then you can parallel or series as needed
th-cam.com/video/UmXgEoOm5y8/w-d-xo.html
Hi... I just received my 2 units I ordered from you. I’m reading about 15.5 VDC each one. Should I be concerned about their state? I thought they cut out in their 20 + vdc and shouldn’t be so low.
Okay... helps to read the fine print on the sales' site :D
"Any voltage below 30v at the Discharge port is an indication that the BMS is hibernation mode."
SO far so good ... It is showing 32 vdc, and it is taking a charge! I'll test the second one tomorrow, and I will see if I can do something with the Arduino code, or possibly use a new $4 raspberry pi pico with MicroPython which might be easier for coding since its more drag and drop and cool and new ;)
pcbway junk ... sub. ended now.