The Dart BF//CM SALE: paskmakes.com/bfcm-sale-dart/ I was never sure if this was worthy of a full video on my main channel, let me know what you think. :)
Sure it is! Even if one doesn't need to oil a bandsaw blade, there is so much useful information here. I'm U.S. Navy veteran turned woodworker/maker, (in Oklahoma, USA), and I love watching your videos. I find you to be such an incredibly likable fellow, and the things I've watched you make are simply brilliant! Thanks as always! ☮
I was just watching you rotate the tap by hand at [2:22] and an idea popped into my head. Please tell me what you think of it. - Make a bow with a _very_ loose string that is only permanently anchored to one end - Wrap the string two or three times around the shaft and connect to the other end of the bow. - Push down on the bow to make the string tighten snuggly around the shaft. - Pushing the bow down and forward will then rotate the shaft. - Releasing the downward pressure and pulling the bow back will loosen the string and bring it back to the starting point, ready to rotate the shaft again, much like a treadle lathe. Does that make sense? Does it sound like it would work?
You don't need a needlevalve! Just make the fillingscrew with a little slot in the threads and plug the airvent hole. Then you can adjust the dripping according to how much air you let in to the "reservoir", and you can keep the ballvalve as a shut off valve. Now you get the right amount of oil every time you open the ballvalve.
if you want to foolproof the oiler look for an "Electric Solenoid Valve normally closed" if you put it between the needle valve and the oil reservoir and you wire it inline with the motor power(get one same voltage as your motor), the oiler will only flow when the motor is on. there might be a bit of drip when you shut it off, from the space between the two valves. another plus is once you get the flow right you never have to mess with it again.
@@PaskMakes actually I just realized you're on 220-240v over there. just make sure you check with your electrician. I'm not sure if you'd have to wire it inline, or with a relay, but it should be doable.
When you are making things with threads that come up to a shoulder, it's a good idea to cut a small relief at the base of the shoulder where the threads would meet it. That way, if you cannot thread right up to the shoulder, there will be a small clearance that will allow the shoulder to seat down on what you are screwing it into without using a washer like you did here. In addition, if you use a lathe tool that will cut a small rounded groove, you can get an O-ring to fit the groove to seal it off.
I am barely a woodworker, nowhere near metalworking, and the idea of modifying my own tools near unimaginable, but that bandsaw mods video is one of my favorites. There's something about hearing you discuss all these little problems and the hows and why of how you solve them that scratches that 'fixit' itch in my brain so very well. It's also why we like hearing about your mistakes and how you solved those too. Your meticulous attention to detail makes every solution seems excellent in the end, even if there is an element of brute forcing it in the middle 😂. Thanks as always
Hello Neil as you know I'm a big fan and love your work. I've been very sick lately and your videos have been a great comfort and an entertaining and informative distraction while I've struggled with it. I was playing my banjo today and looked down at it and realised a banjo would be a perfect build for you. There's a combination of metal machined parts and regular lutherie which we've seen how good you are at straight off the mark. There's also a bit of wood turning to do. I think you would love it and there's few banjo builds on TH-cam.
My only concern is the aluminum potentially grabbing the blade if it runs dry. Something like bronze or cast iron would probably be more suitable for the task.
Oh my, yes, it's worthy. Honestly, Niel, anything you make is fascinating and worthy. I love infrastructure builds, client builds, home builds, what the heck & give it a go builds. You make it fun and interesting. Thanks
You should use an electric valve that turns on/off with the saw. They're really cheap, and easy to install, with quick connects. You can use a needle valve to have better control of the flow, and just leave it on all the time.
That is quite impressive. Well thought out and easy to make. I have the original ENCO American made saw from which that Chinese copy was modeled. I bought it in 1984 fully assembled from their show room. One of the best $75.00 USD investments that I ever made. I've only had to change blades and roller bearings when needed. I like your mods and will definitely consider them for my own saw. Thank you.
Good Job brother. I made a rudimentary oiler many years ago by using a hanging plastic rum bottle with the bottom cut out and a 1/4'' refrigerator water supply kit that comes with 12 feet of plastic tubing, compression fittings and a 1/4'' shut off valve. The drip line with an attached magnet is long enough to supply both my bandsaw and my drill press.
I find your builds mesmerizing. They are, for the most part, about things that I'll never need to build, but the technique and attention to detail is fascinating
You can find some tiny electric solenoid valves online, and hook them up to the saw power on switch, so that they only dispense oil when it's on. And to control the flow, instead of controlling it using the valve, control it using the air inlet hole, or put the solenoid valve after the needle valve you want to get.
I've done a few of this type of project around my shop. Some were do-overs when the first try didn't work. When they work and make life in the shop easier it is so satisfying. I can spend all day and at the end I think "That was fun." Love those days.
Next project -get rid of the trash feed spring and replace it with hydraulic cylinder. Pneumatic one can be modified(replace the o rings and the rest of it with ones that are resistant to oil,most of them already are but just in case),cheap mal 32 cylinder can be used.You need double acting single rod cylinder. Whole thing works by connecting two ports with 1/2" pipe(you can use copper or ptfe plastic air fittings ) and you put needle valve in middle .After that you make a bypass of said needle valve and in that bypass you put one way valve so you can lift a saw up freely but when it goes down oil needs to go trough needle valve which controls feed rate. Air bleeding and filling system with oil can be made easy by making your own connector with a cap on one of the ports. Most cheap air cylinders use G1/8" thread(AKA BSPP-parallell thread)R1/8" would be BSPT-tapered thread.
It is as mentioned and suggested below. A needle valve is more precise to give a nice and steady flow. And to aid in keeping the correct setting you could add a valve to the breather-hole you made. That way you dont need to find the correct position every time.
Awesome as usual sir. One tip for you, die nuts are designed to reclaim threads as they have a neutral or negative cutting edge. Split dies are used for cutting threads. Keep up the great and always highly skilled work that you share with us.
I've done a couple of the mods from your other saw video and they are great. I don't know how you come up with these great ideas, but you have some awesome vids explaining how to put them altogether. Thanks!
In machining school our saws were lubricated by a cutting fluid that was an emulsion of water and some other chemicals. It both cooled and lubricated the blade.
I think you could use that brass screw to control the flow, assuming there's no hole in the cap. You could then set the flow (by loosening the screw and letting air in) and use the valve to just shut off.
Nice build! A needle valve is a better choice for controlling flow in this situation however. You can easily dial one in to drip every few seconds, much more control than a ball valve.
I spent my entire career (I'm now retired) working in engineering and sales for oil/gas ball valve manufacturers. Although I doubt it would be an issue in this low-pressure application, it's nonetheless noteworthy that ball valves, by their very nature, are not suited for throttling applications. They are intended to be used in on-off applications only. This is especially true of a floating ball valve (which this is), as it is designed to seal better when there is pressure applied to the upstream side of the closed ball, thereby *floating* it to the downstream seat and maintaining pressure against that seat. There is some designed preload on the valve's ball/seat interface, but it is not consistent in these types of high-volume produced, cheap brass/bronze valves common to hardware and box stores, so the sealing results of any two such ball valves may be different. A needle valve would be a more appropriate solution for the application. A globe valve or gate valve would also suffice. ALL THAT SAID, I'm truly impressed with your can-do manner and forthright approach to improvement of your processes. Carry on, sir! As always, thanks much for sharing. Steve
Another good option for a thread sealant is Loctite Number 565 thread sealant. Easy to come by and a very good product. Thanks for all the good ideas and for the video.
keep the ball valve in addition to the needle valve, you can adjust the needle valve and leave it in place, then use the ball valve for on/off control.
You are very innovative. Quite the designer engineer. Very good. Use your needle valve to adjust the flow and leave it there. Use the ball valve to turn it on and off, full on full off. Use the needle valve for adjustment.
Adding an automatic stop valve seems sensible. An in line needle valve also seems sensible, it would give you an adjustable flow rate, to allow for variations in the oil viscosity. Having the flow valve adjustment independent of the stop valve would avoid having to readjust the flow at every use.
I currently use a drip from a flexible nozzle on a large bottle. I also use soluble oil water mixture. I find I use a lot of coolant to cut my metal bars.
Very nice! Maybe use both valves? Needle valve to control flow, set and forget. Ball valve to open and close. Or maybe get fancy and use solenoid valve controlled by the saw on/off switch. No forgetting then.
One change I would suggest would be to use both a needle valve and a ball valve. Use the needle to control the exact flow rate, and then you could use the ball valve to quickly turn it on/off :) EDIT: Bikermatz suggestion is much better, haha!
Hey Neil, looks like a electromechanical valve would be a great option, It would open only when the saw is running. (won't help with the flow but I think you have that covered already.
Great idea, was thinking you can could have two taps, one with the speed setting that you don't touch and another you simply open fully to allow it to run. That way you can have your setting dialled in.
I started watching CEE - Cutting Edge Engineering a few months back and after seeing the huge lathes Curtis has your look so cute. You both are on the Suncoast, you should get in contact. He could teach you how to do a great weld. You are not in the same field but both of you are meticulous in your work (why I'm subbed to you both) so there might be a nice exchange of subs between you too.
Maybe dumb question, but wouldn't the aluminum lubricating block be better made out of brass? Wouldn't brass be less likely to gall, act as a natural bushing, and have better porosity?
I would add another thumbscrew to the lower cap, which narrows the flow so that you can dial it in once and then just have to open and close the valve,
I would have used both a ball valve and a needle valve - the needle valve once adjusted you don't need to touch and the ball valve you turn off when not in use. You could also use a solenoid valve like the ones on chinese small engine carburetors to control fuel. Also thick felt for the wiper (cut up one of those felt disks you can buy to put under the legs of furniture) - it will get saturated and work better than rubber.
Great idea and nice job. I'd like to take your idea and add an electrically-operated valve to it, to only come on when the blade motor is running. (But that will have to wait a long time, as I have another three-month hiatus upcoming. Adding it to my list for much later.)
Needle valve or orifice in series with oiler. Ball valves suck for fine control. Leave the ball in place for coarse on/off. Think of the saw drop regulator cylinder with both ball and needle valve...
should have 2 valves. 1 on off and 1 flow control. Added kool mist to my saw yrs ago. also added auto stop type control with aa limit switch kool mist on or off and e-stop. think it was like a hundered for all the parts. I got to make 6-8 brackets. I run emulsified oil 10-1 through, it is easy to clean off.
Is Kool Mist a venturi cooler? I have looked at those for years. Need sufficient air for them. I added a water soluble oil mister a long time ago and it works beautifully.
@@lint2023 there is a venturi but it is not the cooler. the venturi mixes the air and water. The cooling comes from the mas of air water mix flowing over the work. The real advantage in the home shop is only 1/100 of the actual oil going every where. 1/10 oil x 1/10 air.
Great job. Would it work to plug off the breather hole to stop the oil flow? Kind of like sealing the top of a straw and pulling it out of your drink. The liquid stays inside. That way you could dial in the flow rate and then use a separate valve to seal the breather as an OFF switch
awesome little project. I love your content. always looking forward to your next video. so please keep them coming. but at several points in the video you are using this awesome ratchet tapwrench. where did you get it?? do you have a link??
Such a well thought out and neat solution, btw I tried to download the free plans for the router plane but it doesn't seem to be working. Definitely not a complaint as it is free, just a heads up.
I wonder if you put some felt in the hole against the blade it will only dispense oil as it’s running, eliminating the need to turn it off. Kind of like a felt tip pen/marker.
I did extensive work on a lexus swapped lotus esprit a few years back at a shop where I worked . All I can say is how horrified I was as to what a load of crap it was .
Thanks for sharing this. Just wondering, because I haven't got the mechanism right in my head, if the supply tank was mounted at 45 degrees if it would supply oil both horizontally and vertically.
The Dart BF//CM SALE: paskmakes.com/bfcm-sale-dart/
I was never sure if this was worthy of a full video on my main channel, let me know what you think. :)
Sure it is! Even if one doesn't need to oil a bandsaw blade, there is so much useful information here. I'm U.S. Navy veteran turned woodworker/maker, (in Oklahoma, USA), and I love watching your videos. I find you to be such an incredibly likable fellow, and the things I've watched you make are simply brilliant! Thanks as always! ☮
@@timdoyon1964 Thanks very much Tim! :)
Anything you make is worthy of posting.
I was just watching you rotate the tap by hand at [2:22] and an idea popped into my head. Please tell me what you think of it.
- Make a bow with a _very_ loose string that is only permanently anchored to one end
- Wrap the string two or three times around the shaft and connect to the other end of the bow.
- Push down on the bow to make the string tighten snuggly around the shaft.
- Pushing the bow down and forward will then rotate the shaft.
- Releasing the downward pressure and pulling the bow back will loosen the string and bring it back to the starting point, ready to rotate the shaft again, much like a treadle lathe.
Does that make sense? Does it sound like it would work?
Hey Neil, just an FYI most Bunnings keeps foam pads to put in trolleys for dogs. Might help your four legged mate to be a bit more compfy.
You don't need a needlevalve! Just make the fillingscrew with a little slot in the threads and plug the airvent hole.
Then you can adjust the dripping according to how much air you let in to the "reservoir", and you can keep the ballvalve as a shut off valve.
Now you get the right amount of oil every time you open the ballvalve.
assumes a perfectly sealed reservoir... Probably not happening with the threads on the top and bottom caps that the tube "seals" to.
@@Boosted98gsx That reservoir is not under any pressure and if it's not leaking now then it will be fine with my solution.
@@bikermatz I agree, great solution
That's a great idea, Thanks very much! :)
Excellent idea ! Thanks !
if you want to foolproof the oiler look for an "Electric Solenoid Valve normally closed" if you put it between the needle valve and the oil reservoir and you wire it inline with the motor power(get one same voltage as your motor), the oiler will only flow when the motor is on. there might be a bit of drip when you shut it off, from the space between the two valves. another plus is once you get the flow right you never have to mess with it again.
That would be awesome Marc - I'm not good with electrics but I'll look into it. Thank you. :)
@@PaskMakes actually I just realized you're on 220-240v over there. just make sure you check with your electrician. I'm not sure if you'd have to wire it inline, or with a relay, but it should be doable.
When you are making things with threads that come up to a shoulder, it's a good idea to cut a small relief at the base of the shoulder where the threads would meet it. That way, if you cannot thread right up to the shoulder, there will be a small clearance that will allow the shoulder to seat down on what you are screwing it into without using a washer like you did here. In addition, if you use a lathe tool that will cut a small rounded groove, you can get an O-ring to fit the groove to seal it off.
Thanks for the ideas - makes perfect sense. :)
I am barely a woodworker, nowhere near metalworking, and the idea of modifying my own tools near unimaginable, but that bandsaw mods video is one of my favorites. There's something about hearing you discuss all these little problems and the hows and why of how you solve them that scratches that 'fixit' itch in my brain so very well. It's also why we like hearing about your mistakes and how you solved those too. Your meticulous attention to detail makes every solution seems excellent in the end, even if there is an element of brute forcing it in the middle 😂. Thanks as always
Thanks Chris! Glad you enjoyed the video and appreciate the mistakes! :)
Hello Neil as you know I'm a big fan and love your work. I've been very sick lately and your videos have been a great comfort and an entertaining and informative distraction while I've struggled with it. I was playing my banjo today and looked down at it and realised a banjo would be a perfect build for you. There's a combination of metal machined parts and regular lutherie which we've seen how good you are at straight off the mark. There's also a bit of wood turning to do. I think you would love it and there's few banjo builds on TH-cam.
Great job. Splitting the oil line inside the aluminum block was something I would not have thought of. Fantastic!
I wouldn’t have thought of it either. but he’s pretty clever
My only concern is the aluminum potentially grabbing the blade if it runs dry. Something like bronze or cast iron would probably be more suitable for the task.
Thanks Mike! :)
Needle valve would be the best choice. A ball valve is usually best for full on or full off.
It's actually not "best full on / full off" but rather intended to be used that way. At least so I heard.
Oh my, yes, it's worthy. Honestly, Niel, anything you make is fascinating and worthy. I love infrastructure builds, client builds, home builds, what the heck & give it a go builds. You make it fun and interesting. Thanks
Thanks very much Vickie - glad you thought it was a worthy watch. :)
You should use an electric valve that turns on/off with the saw. They're really cheap, and easy to install, with quick connects.
You can use a needle valve to have better control of the flow, and just leave it on all the time.
I'm definitely going to look into it. Thank you. :)
That is quite impressive. Well thought out and easy to make. I have the original ENCO American made saw from which that Chinese copy was modeled. I bought it in 1984 fully assembled from their show room. One of the best $75.00 USD investments that I ever made. I've only had to change blades and roller bearings when needed. I like your mods and will definitely consider them for my own saw.
Thank you.
Good Job brother. I made a rudimentary oiler many years ago by using a hanging plastic rum bottle with the bottom cut out and a 1/4'' refrigerator water supply kit that comes with 12 feet of plastic tubing, compression fittings and a 1/4'' shut off valve. The drip line with an attached magnet is long enough to supply both my bandsaw and my drill press.
Thanks! Sounds like you got a good solution. :)
I had one of those bandsaws for decades. I can really appreciate all of these modifications.
They've definitely made a big difference. :)
I find your builds mesmerizing. They are, for the most part, about things that I'll never need to build, but the technique and attention to detail is fascinating
You can find some tiny electric solenoid valves online, and hook them up to the saw power on switch, so that they only dispense oil when it's on.
And to control the flow, instead of controlling it using the valve, control it using the air inlet hole, or put the solenoid valve after the needle valve you want to get.
I don't have a saw like this but I love tool mods and watching you problem solve always inspires me.
I've done a few of this type of project around my shop. Some were do-overs when the first try didn't work. When they work and make life in the shop easier it is so satisfying. I can spend all day and at the end I think "That was fun." Love those days.
I have several marking knives, but the Dart is the 1st one I reach for every time. Great job on the Bandsaw!
Thank you and thanks for the support! :)
Next project -get rid of the trash feed spring and replace it with hydraulic cylinder. Pneumatic one can be modified(replace the o rings and the rest of it with ones that are resistant to oil,most of them already are but just in case),cheap mal 32 cylinder can be used.You need double acting single rod cylinder.
Whole thing works by connecting two ports with 1/2" pipe(you can use copper or ptfe plastic air fittings ) and you put needle valve in middle .After that you make a bypass of said needle valve and in that bypass you put one way valve so you can lift a saw up freely but when it goes down oil needs to go trough needle valve which controls feed rate.
Air bleeding and filling system with oil can be made easy by making your own connector with a cap on one of the ports.
Most cheap air cylinders use G1/8" thread(AKA BSPP-parallell thread)R1/8" would be BSPT-tapered thread.
It is as mentioned and suggested below. A needle valve is more precise to give a nice and steady flow. And to aid in keeping the correct setting you could add a valve to the breather-hole you made. That way you dont need to find the correct position every time.
I would add felt wipers inside the block would saturate and control the flow. Just an idea. Excellent job and video, thanks for sharing!
That's a great idea - thank you! :)
Awesome as usual sir. One tip for you, die nuts are designed to reclaim threads as they have a neutral or negative cutting edge. Split dies are used for cutting threads. Keep up the great and always highly skilled work that you share with us.
You could put a cheap needle valve inline before the ball valve to control flow and use the ball valve as on/off.
And if that works (I think it will, also) switch to a solenoid valve to open/close with the saw switch.
Great job on this oiler. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Great idea and very nice work Neil! I can see you making modifications to this unit down the road. 👍👍
Thanks very much Steve! :)
You could wire a simple light that turns on when the oiler is open. It might help you remember to turn it off. Great video as always!
I've done a couple of the mods from your other saw video and they are great. I don't know how you come up with these great ideas, but you have some awesome vids explaining how to put them altogether.
Thanks!
In machining school our saws were lubricated by a cutting fluid that was an emulsion of water and some other chemicals. It both cooled and lubricated the blade.
I think you could use that brass screw to control the flow, assuming there's no hole in the cap. You could then set the flow (by loosening the screw and letting air in) and use the valve to just shut off.
wieder mal was anständiges gebaut, Hut ab, gute Arbeit, weiter so
Nice build! A needle valve is a better choice for controlling flow in this situation however. You can easily dial one in to drip every few seconds, much more control than a ball valve.
I spent my entire career (I'm now retired) working in engineering and sales for oil/gas ball valve manufacturers. Although I doubt it would be an issue in this low-pressure application, it's nonetheless noteworthy that ball valves, by their very nature, are not suited for throttling applications. They are intended to be used in on-off applications only. This is especially true of a floating ball valve (which this is), as it is designed to seal better when there is pressure applied to the upstream side of the closed ball, thereby *floating* it to the downstream seat and maintaining pressure against that seat. There is some designed preload on the valve's ball/seat interface, but it is not consistent in these types of high-volume produced, cheap brass/bronze valves common to hardware and box stores, so the sealing results of any two such ball valves may be different. A needle valve would be a more appropriate solution for the application. A globe valve or gate valve would also suffice.
ALL THAT SAID, I'm truly impressed with your can-do manner and forthright approach to improvement of your processes. Carry on, sir!
As always, thanks much for sharing.
Steve
Brilliant mod and efficient. Great video Neil
Another good option for a thread sealant is Loctite Number 565 thread sealant. Easy to come by and a very good product. Thanks for all the good ideas and for the video.
Brilliant work, Neil! It turned out great! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
keep the ball valve in addition to the needle valve, you can adjust the needle valve and leave it in place, then use the ball valve for on/off control.
Another fantastic video and another great bandsaw modification!
Your projects are always so cool
You are very innovative. Quite the designer engineer. Very good. Use your needle valve to adjust the flow and leave it there. Use the ball valve to turn it on and off, full on full off. Use the needle valve for adjustment.
Outstanding! great use of common materials to engineer a useful tool...definitely worthy!
What about a solenoid that opens when you turn the saw on? Nice build
Came to comment the same thing. That's the way to make this from a nice mod to an amazing one.
Great build Neil!
Adding an automatic stop valve seems sensible. An in line needle valve also seems sensible, it would give you an adjustable flow rate, to allow for variations in the oil viscosity. Having the flow valve adjustment independent of the stop valve would avoid having to readjust the flow at every use.
Compliments Mr Pask, very clear and important!
I currently use a drip from a flexible nozzle on a large bottle. I also use soluble oil water mixture. I find I use a lot of coolant to cut my metal bars.
Excellent work Mr P
Very nice! Maybe use both valves? Needle valve to control flow, set and forget. Ball valve to open and close. Or maybe get fancy and use solenoid valve controlled by the saw on/off switch. No forgetting then.
That's a great idea. Beautiful work. Looks great on the saw. 👍👍❤.have a great day...
Thanks Larry! :)
Loverly little job! add that idea to the to do list.
One change I would suggest would be to use both a needle valve and a ball valve. Use the needle to control the exact flow rate, and then you could use the ball valve to quickly turn it on/off :)
EDIT: Bikermatz suggestion is much better, haha!
Nice video…always enjoy watching all of your videos.
You can put a solenoid valve on it to open when you turn on the power. That is what I'll probably do once I get a saw like that.
It needs a small solenoid valve wired into the saw switch that opens when the power is applied and closes when the saw is turned off.
nice. a needle valve has much finer adjustment... in the USA you can get these at lowed near the swamp cooler section
Brilliant job mate.
Nice mod!
A thought, If you use two valves (after each other) you can have one as a fine tuner and the second as on/off.
Hey Neil, looks like a electromechanical valve would be a great option, It would open only when the saw is running. (won't help with the flow but I think you have that covered already.
Great idea, was thinking you can could have two taps, one with the speed setting that you don't touch and another you simply open fully to allow it to run. That way you can have your setting dialled in.
Seems like maybe you would benefit from a stop for the valve position or even indexed stops for different amount of flow.
Just found your fantastic site. I have subscribed. Keep bringing on the great projects.❤
The needle valve is the better choice. Well done in modifying your saw.
I started watching CEE - Cutting Edge Engineering a few months back and after seeing the huge lathes Curtis has your look so cute. You both are on the Suncoast, you should get in contact. He could teach you how to do a great weld. You are not in the same field but both of you are meticulous in your work (why I'm subbed to you both) so there might be a nice exchange of subs between you too.
Great additions to the saw...
Maybe dumb question, but wouldn't the aluminum lubricating block be better made out of brass? Wouldn't brass be less likely to gall, act as a natural bushing, and have better porosity?
I would add another thumbscrew to the lower cap, which narrows the flow so that you can dial it in once and then just have to open and close the valve,
I would have used both a ball valve and a needle valve - the needle valve once adjusted you don't need to touch and the ball valve you turn off when not in use. You could also use a solenoid valve like the ones on chinese small engine carburetors to control fuel. Also thick felt for the wiper (cut up one of those felt disks you can buy to put under the legs of furniture) - it will get saturated and work better than rubber.
it looks steampunk and that (to me) is the best part
Definitely worth it. Thanks!
Great idea and nice job. I'd like to take your idea and add an electrically-operated valve to it, to only come on when the blade motor is running. (But that will have to wait a long time, as I have another three-month hiatus upcoming. Adding it to my list for much later.)
Needle valve or orifice in series with oiler. Ball valves suck for fine control. Leave the ball in place for coarse on/off. Think of the saw drop regulator cylinder with both ball and needle valve...
What about a patch of felt that gets satureated by the Oil instead of the rubber on the aluminiumblock ?
If you are going to add a needle valve keep the ball valve too. This way you only need to adjust it once instead of every time.
very inventive, well done!
Good idea; as always!
should have 2 valves. 1 on off and 1 flow control.
Added kool mist to my saw yrs ago. also added auto stop type control with aa limit switch kool mist on or off and e-stop. think it was like a hundered for all the parts. I got to make 6-8 brackets. I run emulsified oil 10-1 through, it is easy to clean off.
Is Kool Mist a venturi cooler? I have looked at those for years. Need sufficient air for them. I added a water soluble oil mister a long time ago and it works beautifully.
@@lint2023 there is a venturi but it is not the cooler. the venturi mixes the air and water. The cooling comes from the mas of air water mix flowing over the work.
The real advantage in the home shop is only 1/100 of the actual oil going every where. 1/10 oil x 1/10 air.
Great video as usual. How about a small solenoid valve to automatically turn the oiler on when the saw is powered.
an inline valve that opens when the power to the motor is turned on would be perfect.
Gracias por tus videos, te veo desde España
Nice work!
Great job. Would it work to plug off the breather hole to stop the oil flow? Kind of like sealing the top of a straw and pulling it out of your drink. The liquid stays inside. That way you could dial in the flow rate and then use a separate valve to seal the breather as an OFF switch
Woah! Well done!
Have you noticed any issues with the upper blade wheel getting covered in oil as the freshly oiled blade moves around it?
I think 2 valves would be nice. One to control the flow rate and one to switch it on and off.
Clever chap!
Did you think of undercutting the thread to slow clearance. That way the thread does not need to go all the way down the shaft.
Great video, excellent info..
awesome little project. I love your content. always looking forward to your next video. so please keep them coming. but at several points in the video you are using this awesome ratchet tapwrench. where did you get it?? do you have a link??
I wonder if the manufacturer of the saw is aware of all your excellent improvements? Really cool mods.
great video. yes a video on bending jigs would be great!
Thanks so much
A calibrated orifice and solenoid will solve the problem about forgetting it open.
A needle valve is the best choice.
Two valves can help to adjust amoun of oil
If you put them one after the other you'd have a Valvoline...
I'll get my coat.
You know they make barbed insert plugs in brass that are made to seal in tubing. With no head of pressure clamps probably unnecessary.
Such a well thought out and neat solution, btw I tried to download the free plans for the router plane but it doesn't seem to be working. Definitely not a complaint as it is free, just a heads up.
I wonder if you put some felt in the hole against the blade it will only dispense oil as it’s running, eliminating the need to turn it off. Kind of like a felt tip pen/marker.
I did extensive work on a lexus swapped lotus esprit a few years back at a shop where I worked . All I can say is how horrified I was as to what a load of crap it was .
Could you wire in a solenoid valve to auto start the oiler when the blade is running?
Thanks for sharing this. Just wondering, because I haven't got the mechanism right in my head, if the supply tank was mounted at 45 degrees if it would supply oil both horizontally and vertically.
Gorgeous! ❤