Mustang adjustable lower control arm brackets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2024
- I think we found the problem with my car, at least I hope so anyway. These lower control arm brackets were not really intended to do what I was doing with them, so they bent. Lets put these new TRZ brackets on and see if the car wants to go straight.
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I think you need to get the correct hardware first. I think the bolt shoulder should be further outward where it doesn't bind when its tightened and the total bolt shank is the same size throught both sides of the bracket. Been here already try it John love the channel man you've been flying!!
Ur spot on, makes a big difference
Mcamis made a great video about this
@@derekmcdonald2856 I was just going to mention his video.
John that car ows you nothing it's time for a change before you get hurt
The time has come please finish your new car.
Its that Small Block power showing that steel who is the boss.
John your a Brave Man !!!
Hardware from the hardware store has no place on a race car. Words from Tim McAmis. There shouldn’t be any threads touching the inside of the holes on your brackets. That’s why your bolt holes are egg shaped. The video Tim McAmis has on this issue is very informative and he tells you where you can order the hardware.
Yeah his explanation is based on his experiences. His standard is for 3 g force cars but it is definitely a good model. Bobby Smith said it kindly a few comments up "John you're a brave man!!!"
Hardware stores sell grade 8 and above. You absolutely can find the correct hardware at a hardware store.
Mount a GoPro under the car and see how much does it Flex when you take a ride down the track
Get AN Bolts with the correct grip length. Mcamis has a great video on it!
Freaking love your video content!
Check to Tim mccamis TH-cam channel out he explains bolts and hardware in depth and what and why and where they should be used hope this helps.
Lol ol Tim can get me rolling when he goes off on the China junk tools and parts. Lol... big money there!
Let’s see, oxy acetylene cutting torch, overhead cut and flip flops. Perfect! 🤣🤣🤣
That torch is making my axle seals and bearing races nervous.
Weld the LCA brackets on in line with the lower torque boxes, all your problems will disappear.
I was looking at the torque box's as the culprit for a few videos now.
You sure about that? Taking the triangulation out of a double triangulated 4 link defeats the entire purpose.
@@DWBmotorsports yes, done it about 40 times now. Cars 60' well into the 1.0x range like this.
Set the trz up at 36inches, it squares the lower control arms and allows the rear suspension to move fluently!!!!
Sammy in the house!!!💪💪💪
I like the safety toe boots !
Damit Turbo John those work boots!!!🤣🤣🤣🤣💪💪💪💪
Gonna be dumb better be tough!!!!💯💯💯
Thank god the worse thing that happened was pull to the left. Good find.
Hey John when you see rust dust by the right side front lower mount ITS FLEXING!! I’ve been in the auto body business for 25 years and that’s the type of thing you look for when you are having problems. It’s moving and creating the dust. Weld a support for the bracket and change the heim and I’ll bet problem solved. Eddie wheels 😬🧑🏻🦽👍 NJ.
I like the bottom brace bar 👍. Maybe box that front bracket in a lil if possible.
Did you check the holes in the aluminum spacers?? The bolts will stretch those out as well. I made mine out of steel. And when it comes to housing brackets. I use a course 36-40grit layered grinding disc. They work way better then the standard grinding disc. After I have roughed the weld down. I use a 5" flap disc to blend to the axle tubes. I have done around 10 8.8,s they can be horribly bent from the factory as well. That could cause some rear steer issues. As for bolts I use fine thread long body bolts and cut the threads if needed. I also use SAE washers and nylon lock nuts.
Awesome job bro
I mean, I had to look twice when I saw factory Ford brakes on the back!, ooooooof. You flying with parts I didn’t expect to see there
Right coil over bracket bent as well
Great idea about the spacers. What do you think about boxing in a part of the bottom shy of full extension, or more toward the back u shape it with a little thicker metal for extension clearance. all the respect of course just a loose thought of an idea. I am going to practice being quiet over here now...
Thanks for the content
Donnie
You could use a wishbone in a bad way when you take the triangulation out of the lower control arms.
I'd bet money the lower control arms are flexing like pushrods that are too small and then snap back in place as well. Got some videos of us finding all kinds of issues with a go pro and some string.
I think you need to tie that cage into the control arm bracket I guarantee it’s flexing and it should help it be more Ridgid I was having that problem so I’ve been there but love the videos hope you get it figured out bro.
It is amazing how fast this car is with such a basic setup
Thanks man
You could also box that lower control arm in & also tie it to the cage!
The heat put in those tubes has bent the crap out of those axle tubes is my bet, you need to slide a bar in it and see.
You should get with John doc about control arms made out of titanium from Cameron Johnson racecars.
Are you running coilovers on those shock brackets? A good friend of mine almost dies a month ago,when his (exact same shock brackets) bracket,which is only designed to support a shock,folded over sideways and ripped his tire,at 70,in a 27 ford coupe... he was found 110ft from his car,very lucky to be alive.
Your scale weight looks good for a circle track car. LOL Hopefully you guys can get Randy's car back together soon so you can work on the other car.
I hope it fixes the rear steer problems. The car has gone from a handful to drive, to being not safe to race anymore..
Those lower torque boxes aren’t much better than the factory ones. They need doublers on the holes. They will just oblong out like the rears did. I put the same TRZ brackets on the new 8.8 I just built. I’m putting TeamZ weld your self lower torque boxes in. For the cost on my ability to tig weld they were a no brainer.
I’m just now using those brackets on a 9 inch for my Fairmont. Where did you get that brace that goes across between the brackets? Thanks
John, great vid thx. How important do you think it is to get tre rear of that lower control arm down looking for more anti squat. Is that the only bar adjustment you make? I've got a standard triangulated 4 link car atm that is slung so low the lower control arm is flat and it's blowing tyres off on the line, am thinking about adding adjustment there, what do you think?
thx John, good work, Strength wise it's a shame they laser cut their TRZ signature in the bracket right where it needs it's strength, but overall nice bit of gear
There are car's running 4.0's with these brackets, they should serve him well.
@@nickp.7156 Nice one, glad to hear that
Just use pin and keepers screw the bolts!!!!
Looks like some Top Secret Shitt under there 🚗🦊🔧💪🇺🇲💯👊
Don’t use those hardware store bolts with threads into the new TRZ brackets. Maybe I am saying this too early.
Great content thumbs up
Is it worth doing any more work to this car rather than getting the new car ready and putting these mods into that one instead?
Nice!
Any reason (or problems with)for the slight angle on the shocks? Most are straight up and down. With where my mounts are on the car vs where they are on my new rear i may have to do something similar.
i cant imagine that rearend housing is straight. IMO you need a rearend housing that has a big ass back brace on it.
I spent hundreds, after welding all the brackets on my rear end, to have it straightened...it was WAY off! All the heat from welding distorted the housing.
@@ronsgarage2057 exactly my point. I work in a chassis shop, I see what not only welding does to a rear end but what traction and horsepower to to rear ends. Bottom line is, if it isn't an chromoly rear end with big tubes and and a big back brace. It's bent. I promise you Johns rear end is bent.
Drivers side shock is extended more than passenger
John, you are using the wrong type of bolt for those brackets. You should have no threads touching your bracket. You need a smooth shank/shoulder touching both bracket areas. That is what is causing them to elongate. Tim McAmis did a video on proper hardware. th-cam.com/video/Hj4BifNczCQ/w-d-xo.html
That car is a death trap, is the chassis recertified?
Tim Mccamis qould say you're using the wrong kind of bolts...
just noteist your lug stud size man their thumb size dam! all the work looks great john should be alot better!
What caliper bracket are you using with c-clip eliminators?
I'm going to buy life insurance on you bro.
What size axles do you run ? Splines
Just put some gussets on it
👍
Looks like you were up here in Detroit street racing in the land of pot holes with all that bent up shit. Lol.
👍🏽👍🏽
You just cooked that gear oil. Better change it !
What's up with 4 lugs ?
4lug thug!
Weight reduction!
TJ is a straight up gansta that why 4 lug.
Because 3 probably wouldn't work
Hopefully OSHA don't show up.
Try getting the right tool. Who uses that little bitty a$$ hammer 🤣