6.0 Powerstroke Head Gasket install w/cab on
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2016
- I'm very excited to have done this video for you guys that want to learn and want to do head gaskets on any 6.0 Powerstroke truck. most videos show you how to do head gaskets with cab lifted. this will show you how to do it with with cab on. any questions please comment. like and subscribe.
I did make a video for head removal if you need help removing heads with cab on please check out
• 6.0 Powerstroke head r...
thanks
its a long video so sit tight and enjoy.
6.0doctor
Josh@fully-lit.com
Did my gaskets about a year and a half ago, closely following your videos. Never took a second to say thanks, so Thanks! They were incredibly helpful and saved me a lot of time. I know it takes time, but guys out here like me really appreciate your videos.
instablaster
I second that! Thank you!💪👌
Great info and thank you. My 19yo Son just bought an 06. Needless to say, I am on a crash course to learn how to work on these. He was quoted $15K to pull the cab and do the heads and head gaskets along with ARP studs. Needless to say, after seeing this we are going to trade a weeks worth of work to save paying $13K of labor to someone else.
I am doing head gaskets on a 2004 60 the easiest way I found it just unbolt the right side engine support and lift the engine up And you can get to all the bolts
I know this video has been around a while but I have learned a couple of things to make your life a little easier- I do have a lift but dont like pulling the cab either - so I put the lift only under the front frame rails so I can raise and lower the front of the truck- role it in and pull the front tires - that way you can let it down to a comfortable work height. Then pull the inner mud shield for the passenger side - this gives access to all the crap that you have to reach from under the air box ... and I zip tie that rear stud on the drivers side before it goes in... nice video
You just helped me out with the only thing I had to figure out. Thank you for the first thing. Never thought about removing the driver side motor mount
This was a very well informed video. We have to change head gasket since I dropped two little bolts down inside. This will save so time. Thanks again
I’m glad I’m not the only one who does this. I used to hate the look I got when I told people I’ve never pulled a cab.
out standing video thanks fixing to do a 2004.5 head gaskets. they have been leaking progressively worse for the last 2years I can drive it and no leak my wife can drive it and it leaks enough to notice. waiting for cooler weather here in the south east.
I gotta say I really appreciate your efforts in making this video. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. I know it took a lot of effort on your part. You are a pro. -PawPaw
Subscriber am I .. over a Year ago .. Totally appreciated Sharing of Your Knowledge ... Watched all of your Videos ..Most Certain anyone who watches your TH-cam Videos will gain experience / knowledge ... PLEASE CONTINUE you TH-cam Videos .. Respectfully from COLFAX NC .. DieselTechRon RIP
Great video, I am doing mine now. I know it is much later than the video. I have found that if I pull the inner wheel well plastic I can reach the oil rail, valve cover, and the up pipe.
Awesome Vid! Thanks for taking the time to make the vid.
I think I'm going to do this job in my truck and you video it's going to help me a lot. Thanks in advance great video God bless you.
Great high Level Video .. thanks for Sharing your knowledge .. most appreciated and valued
Awesome walk through
great... well explained.... and on VIDEO! Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Noticed when you were installing the rear ARP stud on driver side, you had assistant "jacking/lifting". Exactly what were you jacking up. I realize doing a cab on head gasket and stud replacement is a challenge due to those rear studs.
Fantastic video as I just found a coolant leak at my head on the passenger side.
Thanks for the great content. Very helpful. I try to post videos of all my powerstroke work too
good stuff man, sure that ron is smiling down on you...
And srmastertech!
@@jamest6391 He's still with us, right?
He passed as well
Great video. Very well done!!
My block is super tough... I tried to get it stoned but I got so high I passed out.
Thanks for sharing this, wealth of knowledge
Thanks for your great videos
My friend you are a soldier !!!!! I thought the only way was to lift the cab !!!
KNOWLEDGEABLE Powerstroke customs LLC
Amazing video brilliant tutorial thank you very much helpful information 👍 God bless you and all your family around you
Powerstroke customs LLC
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
WOW ! Great video !
FULLY LIT, THANKS. Great video. I followed you step for step an got my 06 6.0 bulletproof it had 230,000 miles stock before the EGR cooler start leaking. I spent $2200 on everything,
ARP STUDS
OEM HEADGASKET
EGR DELETE
UPGRADED OIL COOLER
4" TURBO BACK
BLUE SPRING
WATER PUMP
I had fun doing it, Thanks again!!
Where did you get your ARP studs and your OEM head gaskets
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video the information was priceless for me I’m in the middle of a set of head gaskets right now wouldn’t have been able to do it without your help
This was one of the best videos I’ve ever had the pleasure to watch I learned a lot thank you !
Appreciate the video! Thank you! 👍👍
Great video. I'm considering ARP studs on my 05 Excursion. I have a lot more confidence in a cab on install. Thank you!
Exactly why I'm watching for my 05 6.0 Ex lol
very well done
I'm doing mine right now, starting the install of heads tomorrow, so I'll be tending this a lot, thanks for the video
Virgil Kellogg how long did it take you?
Thanks man. Good job
Great video
Amazing video
Felicidades y gracias
Agreed with NOT removing the cab! I can't understand why all of these other people have been removing the cabs! Great video!
I really liked your illustration it was really helpful because I’m getting ready to do my top end and knowing I don’t have to raise the cab is relief so thank you.
Basic same theory as I use on the "E" series units. Exploring the idea of installing the "E" series oil filter system on the "F" series.
Can the heads be pulled while the motor is in an E series?
I mean it's nice if your one of those diy guys without a lift but if you have a lift the time you can save by doing this job with the cab off makes it faster to pull the cab do the work and put it back on vs doing everything with the cab on
thank s perfect good job
Well done! Thx....
Good video...
Can you hand crank the motor with only one cylinder head installed including the high pressure oil rail, and stand pipe in place before working on the driver side. Your advice is truly appreciated, thanks.
I've done my share of gas engine overhauls and they are simple compared to the Diesel. It's unbelievable how complicated it can be. Do all you do with the Cab on looks impossible but you did it. Keep up the great work. Gotta ask, so what happened to the EGR and Oil Cooler portion?
Excellent jop amigo 🎉🎉🎉🎉
I couldn't for the life of me get one of the y-pipe bolts/nuts off on the drivers side exhaust manifold so chose to just take the manifolds off prior to pulling the heads and left the y-pipe and both exhaust manifolds in the engine compartment, all connected. Having the motor mount off and being able to move raise/lower the engine I was able to easily get the manifolds back on after head install. There is enough flex in those sections of the y-pipe to allow you to spread the exhaust manifolds apart enough to get the heads in without issue. Just thought I would comment with this in case there were others that could not get the collector nuts/bolts off at the y-pipes.
Awesome video man! Could you post a video of how you stone the block?
Do you remove the transmission core support when you try to remove the drivers side engine mount to allow it to twist up/down?
Fixing to start on mine this evening
Doctor! I followed all your instruction and tips. Thank you very much for making these videos and answering questions. I have a question after doing this job to my 2006 f250 I am blowing lots of white smoke and seems like a cracked injector? I am getting a p0046 code!
So thank you great job when u want to do mine
Great video- unfortunately I think I get to do this... and this no is after a shop replaced mine last year already.. FML
Makin it look easy
Great video, and thank you for showing an option other than paying 5k or more if and when I need to replace my head gaskets and head bolts. Noticed you didn't do anything with the EGR or the oil cooler was that already done, or doesn't always need to be done?
Also if you have to do it in your driveway, with the cab in you can close the hood when you are not working in it to keep rain and snow out
SNOW Brave man you are but I guess you gotta do what you gotta do good for you.
Can you re-stud the heads without changing the gasket. Doing one bolt at a time. As in re-studding the head bolts one at a time will or won't compromise the head gaskets?
Thanks!
6.0Doctor can the motor be pulled this way? If so, I take it I would have to take it down to the short block, remove core support, disconnect from trans obviously... Anything else, if even possible. Great videos, much appreciated when people are willing to put themselves out there to help/educate others. Can you do one/some on diag/fixing repeat cac tubea blowing off?
What tools would a guy need to complete this process start to finish? And is there any special tools involved? Awesome video.
One question. When removing driver motor mount, and then lowering engine, do you loosen up passenger motor mount? It seems the distance the motor travels, up or down might jeopardize the passenger motor mount?
Hey..do u have to set timming or just make sure the pistons aren't all the way up b4 torquing heads?
Great Video. Thanks for sharing. What brand of mini impact wrench are you using? Milwaukee?
So I have to do my oil pan just for the insurance im set, should I lift the motor up while it’s down like this and do it? Also where do I get the rocker carrier o rings
I've been following all of your videos and thank you for making them. I have a question, I'm installing new KDD o ring heads, high flow oil cooler, ARP studs, new gliw plugs and harnesses, KC turbo, Hpop gasket kit, new gaskets and o rings on everything else. I think I'll also get remand injectors also. Is there anything else that i should do? I'm told 6.4 pushrods but I'm not sure.
Just wondering if it is possible to finish putting the passenger side high pressure oil rail and stand pipe in, before putting the engine mount on the driver side and working on the driver side. Thanks Josh, I’m working on my truck as well. Just finished putting on the passenger side cylinder head.
Aweskme video, just did my heads, gaskets etc following this video. But I missed one part :-/ i did not see the part about rotating the engine by hand to ensure everything was seated properly. When I went to turn engine over, at first it sounded smooth. I did this for 30 seconds, 10 seconds at a time. By the 3rd crank, I was having a slight loping crank, kinda like cranking over a gas motor with 1 spark plug in one of the cylinders. Anyways, after using the key, the truck fired up great, and runs awesome with good power and no smoke, however I think I'm noticing a really slight vibration from the engine. Could this be air in the fuel lines still, or is that slight lope in the cranking definitely a major issue that I need to pull it back down to investigate?
I know this is a year later but it's really hard to know what you did or didn't do that may have caused your issue. By now, you have either torn it back down yourself or had someone else do it or just lived with it.
But, in the future, you should know that with a diesel it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to turn it over with a ratchet by hand quite a few times to ensure there is nothing interfering with the cylinders or valves and so on. The clearance is just too close to mess around with this.
So, did you ever figure out what happened or did you just decide to live with it?
what was the customer concern? Thanks for the video.
What grit stone are you using? And do you have a video to kinda give us an idea of what to do and not to do? Thx for the video bro!
Any tips on installing the passenger side rear banjo bolt for somebody with a regulated return? Seems impossible without the cab off
Same processes for installing the APR head studs?
I am looking at a 6.0 with a blown head gasket. What are some thing in need to watch out for other than changing the gaskets. Also what does this job cost?
Great video, just watched the removal vid to learn new tricks and i did, Im about to do another Head (been 5 years ago dont know what i did wrong but i gotta do it again) job on my 04 with studs and was wondering if you think the head removal with ARPs would go as smoothly as yours did with the bolts, looking forward to doing the motor mount trick as removed the AC box and cut the one drivers side back head bolt. thanks again for the vids
Just finished the head job, Head guy said the failure was due to the head being warped due to over heat. guess i have temp sending issues cause it never went over 202 on my Bully Dog PMT. your video helped me A LOT so i didn't have to remove the A/C box again. Thanks Again for a great video.
How long does it usually take you to do heads if you have another set ready to go. Like old heads off new heads on ready to go and fired up
Can you just pull the vaulv covers and do the studs one at a time or do you half to pull the heads I just wanna make the motor last as long as possible but i don't pull a lot of weight but I have a heavy foot and don't wanna crack the head bolts and all the intake, 4in exhaust is done and egr is deleted and my blow by bypass is done
You don't have a video on installing the rocker arm plastic clips?
Hi, I have a question, I have problem the 2 studs drivers side don’t go, if I lifted the engine it’s wort’s
Good video, couple of things I would point out. One, your intske gaskets are on upside down, you can see on the gasket the plastic tab is facing down, supposed to face up to properly locate the gaskets. And two, if I payed to have head gaskets done, and my rocker boxes were as greasy as those when I got the truck back, I would lose my shit. A little cleaning goes a long way. I pull the cabs, but I have 5 lifts at my disposal. Good work on the stoning by the way, not many do it these days. Always keepna good stone in my box, built a lot of engines over the years.
I have a 06 f 350 I'm having a problem with the radiator cap blowing off or it loses pressure
I watched your video a d finished the job. Trying to start the truck and it sounds like there is a struggle in the crank what do you thank the problem is ?????
Awesome video bro do you have a video from full start to finish I want to do this myself I’ve already deleted it and have done Hpop and new injectors but unfortunately it’s not studded and I’ve noticed she’s spitting some coolant not a lot just a little out of the degas bottle
If I want to install APR head studs in my truck would it be possible to leave the head in and just take the head bolts out and replace them with studs one at a time that way you don't have to completely remove the head and change gaskets? This is of course if the head gaskets are still good and not blown. Seems like it would be much quicker if you didn't have to remove everything and you could just replace the bolts with studs one at a time without taken out injectors and the entire head If there's not a head gasket issue going on.
I wondered this as well. I’ve seen a guy take the rocker mount off which has a head bolt through it, to replace a broken rocker arm. Ran fine after but don’t know about doing multiple ones
2004 Ford F 350 SuperDuty 6.0 all of a sudden the rpm will not go beyond 2200 regardless of how hard it is pressed.I used the small common obd2 scanner and it reads p0261.What could that code measn and what is the solution to this issue.Thanks and I hope to hear from you and others that knows what this is and what can be done to get it resolved.
6.0 Doctor can I install the glow plugs the same time as the injectors ? Just curious. Thank you
Insanely awesome video. Wishing I had listened and installed the fuel lines to the driver side head before installing... but was pressed for time and help. Lesson learned the hard way! Quick question: I've got the heads back on and torqued down. Went through and ran the crankshaft through 4 rotations. All the push rods/rockers/valves appear to be linked right up, but when I was listening to the video I captured, it sounded like the push rods were squeaking a little. Is this because (besides the oil applied to the push rods) the cam is fairly dry? I checked on both sides, and they both do it. I figured since everything is moving the way it should, all items line-up. Was just a little worried about that squeaking.
Eric Woodland the squeak is normal. That could be the Pistons as well. The main thing is you don't want any binding. If it gets to the point you can't turn the crank over by hand and it binds or locks up then you know you have a problem. I just do it to make sure the pushrods and rocker arms are well seated and you know your not gunna throw a rod or break a rocker arm before using the starter to crank. The starter has a lot of torque and can bend or break something. If I can spin that crank before hand and make sure everything is working like it should then when I'm done with the install I know everything will be fine when I use the starter.
In terms of kicking in the starter from the engine bay - What cord did you plug up to the battery to make that happen?
on the passenger side next to the blower there's a single wire with a pinch connector that goes straight to the starter.. disconnect it and put it on the stud battery post.
Does it have a yellow lead wire by chance?
1:06:00 in this video
When doing the head gasket is it a must to have the heads machined or is it up to me
I'm sorry I didn't hear the part where you said how long this job took you I'm just curious because I'm doing a Duramax head gasket right now and it's right around 40 hours
Can the ARP STUDS be reused? Or do they stretch after after they been used?
Totally awesome brother amazing videos. Can you do me a favor and email me your thoughts on what he main causes of diesel and oil mixes are. I'm new to the 6.0 was a gm man most of my life gonna get my first diesel
Brad Martinez diesel and oil mixing together most of the time means that the internal seals in the injectors are bypassing and allowing fuel to get in your oil. (producing oil)
I have a question you know when there are a problem with the head engine and need change
There is a hose and tube going through the head on drivers side. Hiw di i get that out?? Im stumped. Maybe im over thinking it.
Whats the torque spec on the cylinder heads?
Excellent video. Very well documented. I need to do this job soon. I'm looking at the fel-pro head gaskets...Any good?
Marcel LeMay I haven’t had any luck with them unless your heads are oringed.
6.0Doctor So stock gaskets only then? Thanks for the quick reply.
when do you remove the glow plugs?sorry for all the questions im getting ready to replace my head gaskets.thanks
I removed them after the head was hanging from the cherry picker. Or anytime before. Just don't leave them in when the head gets put on the bench. might snap a tip.
Where do you get your parts from? head gaskets and such?
What grit of stone did you use on the block?
Gr8 vid man. Did you have to take out the head studs with the head to get it out? Or will the head just lift off of the studs to remove? About to dig into my truck soon. Thanks
If you’re referring to the factory bolts, yes, they will have to come off before you lift the head.
It will be the same process for a 4.5l v6?
What is the labor on a job like this? Awesome Vid by the way..Thank you for your time!!
Book time is about 23 hours
is there an updated pushrod that should be used instead of the stock length?
Yes