Reverse the VFD when you switch sides. Keep it edge up and change your angle with each grit progression so you can see the new scratch angles. I run it at 10-15% power so I don't have to worry about it catching the knife and messing it up. At low speeds you also don't have to worry about overheating the steel. I use 36 grit and 120 grit belts and then go straight to the disk sander at 120 grit. Saves you money and time. I also added a piece of 1/16" piece of rubber to my disk sander to help soften the scratches. I learned this from multiple master bladesmiths.
Love disc sanding but by trial and hard errors I learned how to really correctly use them the rotation and all etc kicking back I learned the hard way and luckily lost no limbs and I do mean very very lucky thanks brother
production blades imo don't need to be hand sanded if you can pull off a good belt satin, i usually just do it from a 400 grit trizact to red scotch brite -> blue scotch brite
Just a thought. Assuming you start your bevel grind where most people do and working your way towards the tip, that dip or low point is getting the most grind time due to the belt starting in that position. Think about the left side of the belt starting at that point, and the right side of the belt eventually hits that point every single time you start at that point. As the center and right side of the belt only gets hit by a small section of belt at a time, the left side is getting ground by the entire belt as the right side comes across it. Once you're moving it's not as much of an issue, but it's the contact time when you bring the knife to the belt, that slight pause when you start there every single time adds up. Not to mention the time you may spend cleaning up the plunge marks to make them even.
And I'm not a pro but I've learned also that having the Tang flat is very important that's where the Disc Sander is your best friend appearances everything but look at who I'm talking to😁
Great demonstration and helpful. I'm fine with fixing many issues with the 1 x30 harbor freight but fill better if I'd didn't get it and built from scratch as I did my 2X72 belt grinder . Just done 9 knives and had the grinder marks much as you just repaired but mine were gifted so I didn't get to fuss but pride does tell me to improve and my upgrades are guiding my success. Thanks.
Just use a random orbital sander with a thick interface pad so it'll conform to the curves and speed up the process. Should look more uniform and it'll work pretty damn fast.
Hey man great video! Would love to see you do your process of a hallow grind on a blade you’re a great teacher of explaining how to do things (that is if you do them)
Dust stays in the air for a loooong time. I understand that it is expensif to build, but do yourself a favor and make sure you have a separate grinding room. With.. excellent ventilation and always wear a mask. All that dust in your blood makes you tired. You will feel it on a saterday and so wil your lady. And sand once trapped in your lungs? it, wil never get out again.
Reverse the VFD when you switch sides. Keep it edge up and change your angle with each grit progression so you can see the new scratch angles. I run it at 10-15% power so I don't have to worry about it catching the knife and messing it up. At low speeds you also don't have to worry about overheating the steel. I use 36 grit and 120 grit belts and then go straight to the disk sander at 120 grit. Saves you money and time. I also added a piece of 1/16" piece of rubber to my disk sander to help soften the scratches. I learned this from multiple master bladesmiths.
Very great info thank you! You’re saying you added a pice of rubber to the disc before attaching the sand paper to give it a little give?
@@gentrycustomknives8008 Yes sir. Use the feathering adhesive to attach it and you can remove it and reattach when needed.
exactly what I do. saves a ton of time hand sanding.
Love to see you continue to refine your process. Efficiency is key as you grow your business.
Really appreciate that!!
Just bought a disk grinder, never considered finishing like that. Great to see and thanks Matt.
Thanks for watching!!!
Love disc sanding but by trial and hard errors I learned how to really correctly use them the rotation and all etc kicking back I learned the hard way and luckily lost no limbs and I do mean very very lucky thanks brother
I’m still learning!
production blades imo don't need to be hand sanded if you can pull off a good belt satin, i usually just do it from a 400 grit trizact to red scotch brite -> blue scotch brite
I agree! Unfortunately with the Damascus and damasteel hand sanding is a must.
@@gentrycustomknives8008 yeah i havent had much experience with how expensive all that is :L
Just a thought. Assuming you start your bevel grind where most people do and working your way towards the tip, that dip or low point is getting the most grind time due to the belt starting in that position. Think about the left side of the belt starting at that point, and the right side of the belt eventually hits that point every single time you start at that point. As the center and right side of the belt only gets hit by a small section of belt at a time, the left side is getting ground by the entire belt as the right side comes across it. Once you're moving it's not as much of an issue, but it's the contact time when you bring the knife to the belt, that slight pause when you start there every single time adds up. Not to mention the time you may spend cleaning up the plunge marks to make them even.
That is a very good point!
Great video man
Really appreciate that man! 👊👊
And I'm not a pro but I've learned also that having the Tang flat is very important that's where the Disc Sander is your best friend appearances everything but look at who I'm talking to😁
Lol totally! 👊 thank you for watching
Great demonstration and helpful.
I'm fine with fixing many issues with the 1 x30 harbor freight but fill better if I'd didn't get it and built from scratch as I did my 2X72 belt grinder .
Just done 9 knives and had the grinder marks much as you just repaired but mine were gifted so I didn't get to fuss but pride does tell me to improve and my upgrades are guiding my success.
Thanks.
Very nice! Thanks for watching !
Thanks so so much I was thinking of getting a disk grinder and now I know I need one.
I am really loving it so far!!! Thanks for checking out the video!!
Just use a random orbital sander with a thick interface pad so it'll conform to the curves and speed up the process. Should look more uniform and it'll work pretty damn fast.
Too soft of backing those
That's awesome 👍👍👍
👊👊👊
Thanks for sharing
Hey man great video! Would love to see you do your process of a hallow grind on a blade you’re a great teacher of explaining how to do things (that is if you do them)
I’ve actually never tried a hollow grind!! Maybe I should though!
It would be great to see you give it a shot I’m sure you’ll have it down pat after one try. A nice old-school look
Can you do the bevel on a hunting knife and keep the bevel line accurate or is this best for kitchen knives
I can’t!
If you had to choose, a surface grinder attachment or a disc grinder, which would you get first?
Surface grinder for sure!
Great vid...Just got me one of these! do you only use this with full flat grinds?
So far yes! I need to experiment with it a little more though! It’s a fantastic machine. I’ve been using it for multi piece scale prep a lot.
Hey!
Does the disc leave swirls/opposing scratch patterns?
Cheers
Yes it does! I took it to 220 though on the disc and it cut my hand sanding time down a ton!
3M feathering disk adhesive has been discontinued, is there another option?
I guess the 3m spray adhesive works fine aswell
Awesome thanks
😀😀👊👊
Was that knife made with a hollow grind?
No
Dust stays in the air for a loooong time.
I understand that it is expensif to build, but do yourself a favor and make sure you have a separate grinding room. With.. excellent ventilation and always wear a mask.
All that dust in your blood makes you tired. You will feel it on a saterday and so wil your lady. And sand once trapped in your lungs? it, wil never get out again.
Ok
Trying to purchase this setup, and the 3M feathering adhesive is no longer manufactured. Anyone have an alternative they can recommend?
Wow yea I can’t find it anywhere! I’m not sure what else can be used. Probably just a normal spray adhesive would work
I don’t see how you afford to buy anything from Beaumont metalworks
They make incredible life long machines. Buy once cry once.