Nice! Fantastic video, thanks man. Def gonna just going to put it in off-road height and pull the fuse every time I go off-road for any extended period of time.
Glad it helped. If you want to select a terrain response you’ll have to do so before you pull the fuse. I found out they don’t work once fuse is pulled. I assume it will stay locked into whatever offroad mode you had it prior to pulling the fuse but haven’t had a chance to check yet.
In my case with my LR3, solved the same problem very easily! Sometimes, when starting up, or while driving, the "Suspension Fault" would appear on the dash. I inspected all fuses and relays, but all were 100%. Then, as soon as I replaced the big plastic cover over the fuse-box and battery, the same sugnal appears, or the engine would totally cut out and die. It was the negative wire from the battery to the body, that was just touched or moved ever so slightly, to cause all the problems! So I adjusted the position of the negative cable in order to avoid touching the cover when installed, and all problems solved!!
Funny how sometimes something so small can cause such a headache. Glad you were able to figured it out. I didnt have a problem, This was actually a hack I used on the trail when I couldn’t afford the truck to lower to bump stops if something went wrong. It happened to me once, luckily on the street not too far from my house and I could limp home. But it scared the sht outta me cause I realized with my oversized tires if it happened on a trail I could be stranded.
Ok- so I pulled the fuse and yes it worked. It’s stuck in ride height. Perfect solution to an on going issue. With that said, I finally got a gap tool- to correctly read the codes, I’m assuming I’ll have to put the fuse back? I’ve been having a suspension warning problem (can’t drive past 30, sitting on the bumps) costing me a lot of money with no solutions.
Glad it worked for you! Yup, put fuse in then gap tool should work. The solution might be to do a coil and shock swap. It’s about the same cost as a major repair to the air sus and they have both regular height and a lifted version (2 in lift I think).
@@dadventuretv2538 oof well I just replaced the air suspension 👀 plus valve blocks, compresser, and a few other things. This only began giving me issues when i out 2” lift rods in. I wonder if i just need to replace the ride height sensors? I don’t know. 🤷🏻♂️
My suspension goes down if I put the brake lights or the reversing lights on I think there must be some electrical short so I'll try this until I take it to the service
@@jonnyhead yup. That was the one thing that always was in the back of my head when offroading out in the boonies. I did get the larger bump stops by Lucky8 so at least my oversized tires wouldn’t be jammed in the wheel wells if it lowered, but still would have been tough to get out of some of the places I go. And electrical stuff usually can’t be fixed on the trail. If I kept her I’d have switched to the lifted coils by Atlantic British.
I’ve got about a 400 milliamp parasitic draw coming from that 26 engine compartment fuse. Is there any long-term risk pulling that if I’m not regularly raising and lowering the vehicle? I understand it won’t be able to auto level but most of our driving a City driving in general I’m just trying to temporarily isolate the problem so that we don’t have to continue plugging the car into a trickle charger every night!
It should work but can’t comment on long term risk, although can’t come up with a reason it would be a problem. You should hVe the compressor looked at though- that’s usually the culprit with your issue.
Ok this video is a couple yrs old but maybe you will still answer anyways. I own a 2010 land rover lr4 hse with 129,000 miles on it. Ok couple weeks ago started having sagging issues in the rear. Then a week I let it sit overnight after raising the suspension to its highest position woke up to it bottomed out on the passenger rear couldn't see the tire so went out and tire was fine. So got in and set it to the highest position again and it did the same thing that night. So went out and set the suspension at regular driving mode position woke up next morning to the whole rover sagged to where the fender flairs were about an inch from top of tires. So got to looking at TH-cam videos and you and I think one other rover owner took the I think 26E fuse out under the hood after setting the suspension to your desired height. So I set my suspension to the highest position it would go then took the covers off the fuse box under the hood and pulled the same fuse you did. I love that it's way up high now and have waited two nights and it hasn't dropped a bit on all 4 tires.. So since it hasn't dropped would you say I don't have a air bag leak? And since I pulled the fuse have I bypassed all 4 ride height sensors? I've driven it and absolutely love how it feels steers and rides and of course I have the fault on the dash that blinks on and off and has a slight beep each time it does and also has the 30 mph warning which doesn't bother me as long as it's not going to hurt anything. I've driven it probably 100 miles since and it seems perfect to me. So what's your thoughts? I bought 3 yrs ago and it will be paid for in Oct this yr so my thinking is if it gives me any issues before then I will have to do something with it. If it doesn't I will continue to drive it this way. I may at some point purchase the conversion coil spring kit and have someone switch it out so I don't keep having air suspension problems.i will by the Atlantic British heavy load kit with the EAS refresh software management if I do that because I've heard the weaker springs in other kits sag and ride like a boat bouncing alot and I don't want that. If you know anyone who has done the conversion to the coil spring kit is it a good set up and was it still a good ride and good handling conversion? Hopefully I can just drive it like I have it set now and not have to change anything .I love my Land rover and would love to keep it for along time. Thanks man And thank you for doing this original video.its amazing that we can just pull a simple fuse and solve the whole issue.or I hope that's the case.LOL
Hey man. Glad the vid helped. I pulled the fuse a number of times on river crossings and technical rock sections where I could not afford to have it lower. So I no longer have the Rover, an now on a Gladiator so going off memory. But with that caveat, at first when I was reading I was sure it was an airbag leak, but if they are all staying up the same height with the fuse pulled I don’t think it can be. Must have been some electrical gremlin in the system. Yeah basically you killed the entire system by pulling the fuse, so it does not function and will remain at the last height set unless there’s a leak somewhere. When you say highest ride height not sure if ypu mean the secret super high or just the standard offroad- I wouldn’t put it in the secret super high because it is unstable and the bags are super stiff. When I put on the Johnson Lift Rods and larger tires that set it in offroad height perm which I thought was perfect and how it should have come from the dealer. That’s the height I’d go with if I were you. The only issue you might have is selecting rock crawl mode- I can’t remember exactly but I think I had to set it in RC first and then pull the fuse, with fuse pulled I think it wouldn’t go into RC mode bc it wanted to raise the veh and couldnt- even though I already had it raised. That’s the achilles heal for all air sus systems, and what always made me somewhat nervous out on a trail where I needed extra height to get home, in addition to the risk of tears in bags and lines, although LR do a good job of keeping things up and out of the way. I’ve heard good things about the British Atlantic sus swap and was considering it myself when my compressor went at about 100K miles. They sell springs with a lift which is what I would do. Good luck with it man. I loved it while I had it.
@@dadventuretv2538 hey thanks man I appreciate your thoughts. Wish I could afford a gladiator. I've seen them around here with lift kits and big tires and they look amazing. My Rover is still going good for now with it where I set it.Not even sure what you mean by the super high setting .never heard of it. I just let the generator fill the air bags till it stopped and then pulled the fuse and love it where it's at doesn't seem unsafe to drive. Thanks 👍
@@dandaniels4558 no problem. You’re at standard offroad height- same as what I was at with the lift rods. All should be good. So when the fuse is in and it’s working, if you ever get high centered, if it doesnt do it on its own, if you push the button to lower it it will try to lower but can’t and then will go up even higher than offroad mode into extended height mode. I think there may even be one higher, but never tried it. Got rid of the Landy after 130K miles- was an engine issue, maybe head gasket but wouldn’t have been able to tell until they pulled the engine which was gonna be several grand. At that point with those miles I got rid of it. Been enjoying the Gladiator. For a mountain biker who keeps his mtb and gear in it 24/7, with a cap it actually works a little better bc all my stuff is in the bed and the backseat is freed up. In my Landy I had to have half of the back seat flipped down for my mtb to fit. The Jeep is also more old school- driver has to do it all- no computers. Although they do now have an Offroad + button that changes throttle mapping, gear timing and steering input depending on whether in 4 Hi or Lo to make it better for higher speed sand and snow or low speed rock crawling. Cheers man and enjoy your rig. Don’t forget to test your Offroad Modes to see if they work with the fuse pulled. That might be the only issue.
Yup. But this is free and can be done anywhere, anytime, nothing needed. Just a useful hack. And query on the tool- would it actually prevent the truck falling to bump stops in event of a failure? I always wondered about that. Because you are still using the computer, you are just selecting what you want. But does the preprogrammed default in event of failure stay even when you manually select heights? This hack actually kills the electronics to the air sus system, so the only thing that could happen is a bag deflates and you’d lose however much height the deflated bag causes in that one wheel, but should be able to get off trail.
I think that it would have to be a hole in the bag itself. But in general you are right, this won’t prevent a lowering from a hole. But I think what would happen is you would just lose suspension in that one shock and they would not all drop to the bump stops which I think is what would happen if it were on. This is mainly for preventing computer or other system issues from lowering it, not really from holes.
Not first hand but I think so. I think some of the commenters that did it had D3s. One caveat that I subsequently found out- when you take out the fuse you cannot switch modes- like into rock crawl for example. I haven’t had a chance to see if I put in rock crawl first and then pull it if it will remain in rock crawl. I plan to try it and do an update.
Awesome. Baltimore-Chesapeake was men’s club and Old Boys and also played for Washington Poltroons Old Boys. Went to Saranac a bunch. Played you guys a few times over the years. I finally retired a few years ago. And went back to the much safer sport of mountain biking.
I should have such problems, mine is sitting on stops and christmas tree'd out and the new pump and all the other things I've done do nothing to improve Yay!
Check your air tank. Being under the car they can get corroded and if you get a pinhole leak it could cause this. Washing soap in a spray bottle to check it over.
I have a 2007 Range Rover Sport that has had the suspension fault light pop up for a while now, but like a dummy, I continued driving it because the suspension was still raising and lowering. But 2 weeks ago I got in it to leave before I realized that it was sitting pretty much on the ground... the suspension was lowered all the way down. It's all aired out and won't raise at all whatsoever. When we pulled up the 4x4 info on the navigation screen, all of the little lines that are normally little white lines and are above each tire on the screen, were showing up amber colored?? All 4 little lines were amber?? Do you, by chance, know what the issue might be?
Sorrry to hear. So one of the suspension airbags itself may have a leak. Or one of the hoses to them may have a leak. Or the compressor may have gone. And finally it could be the ecu. Those are the main components of the system. My guess given the age and how it went is the compressor. If that is it you’re in luck- sort of. Not the cheapest but not most expensive thing to fix either. And pretty easy. I got 120K miles on mine before it went. 🤞 for you.
Because it drops to the bump stops. At least mine did. Luckily I was 2 miles from home on roads. Also dropped to bump stops one time on me in the driveway for no reason I could figure when I started it. For some reason when there is an issue in the system or if it thinks there is it drops to the bump stops. If I had been offroad I would not have been able to drive it out. If I had been in the middle of a water crossing I would probably have flooded the engine. If you have oversize tires without heightened bumps stop sold by Proud Rhino they’ll jam in the wheelwell and it won’t move. Taking out the fuse kills the system and prevents it from dropping if it something is wrong or if it senses something wrong. So that’s how. Just make sure you put it into whatever offroad mode you want first.
Btw, this isn’t my hack. I got it from the Land Rover forums. When it happened it scared the sh*t outta me so bad cause I understood the ramifications if it happened offroad that I went looking for a solution. So I made the video to try to spread the word, causing finding the answer was not easy. Learn from others’ experience instead of being dismissive and it might just get you home one time, instead of being stranded and needing a very expensive tow, if even possible.
Not if you know what you are doing. If you’re gonna offroad you better know how to hack, fix and mod your vehicle. Because you may need to do it to get home.
Lol. It’s not a fix, it’s a way to avoid a system doing something when you don’t want it to. You put it back when you’re done. If you can’t understand that maybe you shouldn’t comment. Please put your keyboard away and find someone who understands what the vid is about.
@@dadventuretv2538 Sorry I'm a actual professional mechanic and pulling fuses for modules you don't understand affects other systems you have no idea about. Have fun throwing expensive parts at it...
@@detroit149 do you work on LRs? Obviously not because if you did you would know that this is a hack that has been used on LR4s for years. Im not a pro but rebuilt my first engine and reinstalled it at 14. Over the years I’ve had to fix everything from mountain bikes to Rovers to get either myself or my buddy home. I do my research before I do anything. This works without adverse consequences, unless you lose the fuse. It will kill the terrain response but all you have to do is select the mode you want first. When you are on a trail where a tow truck cannot get you then a failure that will leave you stranded is catastrophic. If you have oversized tires and there is a failure in the EAS system and it drops to bump stops you are screwed. If you’re a pro you of all people should know how unique all the new vehicles are, especially when dealing with their electronic systems. So why don’t you do some research first before typing out d bag keyboard tough guy comments. You’re the reason I can’t take my rig to a general mechanic and only deal with specialists who work on off road modified rigs. There’s a big difference between a garage mechanic and a bush mechanic.
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Nice! Fantastic video, thanks man. Def gonna just going to put it in off-road height and pull the fuse every time I go off-road for any extended period of time.
Glad it helped. If you want to select a terrain response you’ll have to do so before you pull the fuse. I found out they don’t work once fuse is pulled. I assume it will stay locked into whatever offroad mode you had it prior to pulling the fuse but haven’t had a chance to check yet.
In my case with my LR3, solved the same problem very easily! Sometimes, when starting up, or while driving, the "Suspension Fault" would appear on the dash. I inspected all fuses and relays, but all were 100%. Then, as soon as I replaced the big plastic cover over the fuse-box and battery, the same sugnal appears, or the engine would totally cut out and die. It was the negative wire from the battery to the body, that was just touched or moved ever so slightly, to cause all the problems! So I adjusted the position of the negative cable in order to avoid touching the cover when installed, and all problems solved!!
Funny how sometimes something so small can cause such a headache. Glad you were able to figured it out. I didnt have a problem, This was actually a hack I used on the trail when I couldn’t afford the truck to lower to bump stops if something went wrong. It happened to me once, luckily on the street not too far from my house and I could limp home. But it scared the sht outta me cause I realized with my oversized tires if it happened on a trail I could be stranded.
Ok- so I pulled the fuse and yes it worked. It’s stuck in ride height. Perfect solution to an on going issue. With that said, I finally got a gap tool- to correctly read the codes, I’m assuming I’ll have to put the fuse back? I’ve been having a suspension warning problem (can’t drive past 30, sitting on the bumps) costing me a lot of money with no solutions.
Glad it worked for you! Yup, put fuse in then gap tool should work. The solution might be to do a coil and shock swap. It’s about the same cost as a major repair to the air sus and they have both regular height and a lifted version (2 in lift I think).
@@dadventuretv2538 oof well I just replaced the air suspension 👀 plus valve blocks, compresser, and a few other things. This only began giving me issues when i out 2” lift rods in. I wonder if i just need to replace the ride height sensors? I don’t know. 🤷🏻♂️
My suspension goes down if I put the brake lights or the reversing lights on I think there must be some electrical short so I'll try this until I take it to the service
Thst’s a weird one. Good luck with it. 🤞
@@dadventuretv2538 🤔 yeah it's a real pain in the ass and it looks like it's only a small electrical fault causing a major problem
@@jonnyhead yup. That was the one thing that always was in the back of my head when offroading out in the boonies. I did get the larger bump stops by Lucky8 so at least my oversized tires wouldn’t be jammed in the wheel wells if it lowered, but still would have been tough to get out of some of the places I go. And electrical stuff usually can’t be fixed on the trail. If I kept her I’d have switched to the lifted coils by Atlantic British.
thnx 4 share!
I’ve got about a 400 milliamp parasitic draw coming from that 26 engine compartment fuse. Is there any long-term risk pulling that if I’m not regularly raising and lowering the vehicle?
I understand it won’t be able to auto level but most of our driving a City driving in general I’m just trying to temporarily isolate the problem so that we don’t have to continue plugging the car into a trickle charger every night!
It should work but can’t comment on long term risk, although can’t come up with a reason it would be a problem. You should hVe the compressor looked at though- that’s usually the culprit with your issue.
Ok this video is a couple yrs old but maybe you will still answer anyways.
I own a 2010 land rover lr4 hse with 129,000 miles on it.
Ok couple weeks ago started having sagging issues in the rear. Then a week I let it sit overnight after raising the suspension to its highest position woke up to it bottomed out on the passenger rear couldn't see the tire so went out and tire was fine. So got in and set it to the highest position again and it did the same thing that night.
So went out and set the suspension at regular driving mode position woke up next morning to the whole rover sagged to where the fender flairs were about an inch from top of tires.
So got to looking at TH-cam videos and you and I think one other rover owner took the I think 26E fuse out under the hood after setting the suspension to your desired height. So I set my suspension to the highest position it would go then took the covers off the fuse box under the hood and pulled the same fuse you did.
I love that it's way up high now and have waited two nights and it hasn't dropped a bit on all 4 tires..
So since it hasn't dropped would you say I don't have a air bag leak?
And since I pulled the fuse have I bypassed all 4 ride height sensors?
I've driven it and absolutely love how it feels steers and rides and of course I have the fault on the dash that blinks on and off and has a slight beep each time it does and also has the 30 mph warning which doesn't bother me as long as it's not going to hurt anything. I've driven it probably 100 miles since and it seems perfect to me.
So what's your thoughts?
I bought 3 yrs ago and it will be paid for in Oct this yr so my thinking is if it gives me any issues before then I will have to do something with it.
If it doesn't I will continue to drive it this way.
I may at some point purchase the conversion coil spring kit and have someone switch it out so I don't keep having air suspension problems.i will by the Atlantic British heavy load kit with the EAS refresh software management if I do that because I've heard the weaker springs in other kits sag and ride like a boat bouncing alot and I don't want that.
If you know anyone who has done the conversion to the coil spring kit is it a good set up and was it still a good ride and good handling conversion?
Hopefully I can just drive it like I have it set now and not have to change anything .I love my Land rover and would love to keep it for along time.
Thanks man
And thank you for doing this original video.its amazing that we can just pull a simple fuse and solve the whole issue.or I hope that's the case.LOL
Hey man. Glad the vid helped. I pulled the fuse a number of times on river crossings and technical rock sections where I could not afford to have it lower. So I no longer have the Rover, an now on a Gladiator so going off memory. But with that caveat, at first when I was reading I was sure it was an airbag leak, but if they are all staying up the same height with the fuse pulled I don’t think it can be. Must have been some electrical gremlin in the system. Yeah basically you killed the entire system by pulling the fuse, so it does not function and will remain at the last height set unless there’s a leak somewhere. When you say highest ride height not sure if ypu mean the secret super high or just the standard offroad- I wouldn’t put it in the secret super high because it is unstable and the bags are super stiff. When I put on the Johnson Lift Rods and larger tires that set it in offroad height perm which I thought was perfect and how it should have come from the dealer. That’s the height I’d go with if I were you. The only issue you might have is selecting rock crawl mode- I can’t remember exactly but I think I had to set it in RC first and then pull the fuse, with fuse pulled I think it wouldn’t go into RC mode bc it wanted to raise the veh and couldnt- even though I already had it raised. That’s the achilles heal for all air sus systems, and what always made me somewhat nervous out on a trail where I needed extra height to get home, in addition to the risk of tears in bags and lines, although LR do a good job of keeping things up and out of the way. I’ve heard good things about the British Atlantic sus swap and was considering it myself when my compressor went at about 100K miles. They sell springs with a lift which is what I would do. Good luck with it man. I loved it while I had it.
@@dadventuretv2538 hey thanks man I appreciate your thoughts.
Wish I could afford a gladiator. I've seen them around here with lift kits and big tires and they look amazing.
My Rover is still going good for now with it where I set it.Not even sure what you mean by the super high setting .never heard of it.
I just let the generator fill the air bags till it stopped and then pulled the fuse and love it where it's at doesn't seem unsafe to drive.
Thanks 👍
@@dandaniels4558 no problem. You’re at standard offroad height- same as what I was at with the lift rods. All should be good. So when the fuse is in and it’s working, if you ever get high centered, if it doesnt do it on its own, if you push the button to lower it it will try to lower but can’t and then will go up even higher than offroad mode into extended height mode. I think there may even be one higher, but never tried it. Got rid of the Landy after 130K miles- was an engine issue, maybe head gasket but wouldn’t have been able to tell until they pulled the engine which was gonna be several grand. At that point with those miles I got rid of it. Been enjoying the Gladiator. For a mountain biker who keeps his mtb and gear in it 24/7, with a cap it actually works a little better bc all my stuff is in the bed and the backseat is freed up. In my Landy I had to have half of the back seat flipped down for my mtb to fit. The Jeep is also more old school- driver has to do it all- no computers. Although they do now have an Offroad + button that changes throttle mapping, gear timing and steering input depending on whether in 4 Hi or Lo to make it better for higher speed sand and snow or low speed rock crawling. Cheers man and enjoy your rig. Don’t forget to test your Offroad Modes to see if they work with the fuse pulled. That might be the only issue.
Or buy an IIDTool, put the EAS into 'Build Mode' and control everything manually.
Yup. But this is free and can be done anywhere, anytime, nothing needed. Just a useful hack. And query on the tool- would it actually prevent the truck falling to bump stops in event of a failure? I always wondered about that. Because you are still using the computer, you are just selecting what you want. But does the preprogrammed default in event of failure stay even when you manually select heights? This hack actually kills the electronics to the air sus system, so the only thing that could happen is a bag deflates and you’d lose however much height the deflated bag causes in that one wheel, but should be able to get off trail.
what I dont get though, is if you get a hole in the reservoir tank, wont the air just leak out anyway?
I think that it would have to be a hole in the bag itself. But in general you are right, this won’t prevent a lowering from a hole. But I think what would happen is you would just lose suspension in that one shock and they would not all drop to the bump stops which I think is what would happen if it were on. This is mainly for preventing computer or other system issues from lowering it, not really from holes.
I didn’t catch if you said this has to be done on a level surface or not?
Nope. Just put it into the height level and offroad mode that you want first, then remove.
Whats about the beeps
Mate I suggest its the seat belt alarm, I'm guessing the seat belt laws in the US are not as stringent as other countries around the world?
as soon as you disable your air suspension it disables terrain response therefore making it worthless off-road
Set it into the terrain mode you want first, then pull the fuse. It kept it in the terrain mode I had selected.
Do you know if this works on the D3?
Not first hand but I think so. I think some of the commenters that did it had D3s. One caveat that I subsequently found out- when you take out the fuse you cannot switch modes- like into rock crawl for example. I haven’t had a chance to see if I put in rock crawl first and then pull it if it will remain in rock crawl. I plan to try it and do an update.
Helpful!, Fellow rugger ....haaa what’s your local team bro? I play for the CT Grey in CT. Cheers
Awesome. Baltimore-Chesapeake was men’s club and Old Boys and also played for Washington Poltroons Old Boys. Went to Saranac a bunch. Played you guys a few times over the years. I finally retired a few years ago. And went back to the much safer sport of mountain biking.
I should have such problems, mine is sitting on stops and christmas tree'd out and the new pump and all the other things I've done do nothing to improve Yay!
Sorry man. I feel for ya. I got rid of mine when repair costs just started not making sense anymore. In a Gladiator now.
Check your air tank. Being under the car they can get corroded and if you get a pinhole leak it could cause this. Washing soap in a spray bottle to check it over.
I have a 2007 Range Rover Sport that has had the suspension fault light pop up for a while now, but like a dummy, I continued driving it because the suspension was still raising and lowering. But 2 weeks ago I got in it to leave before I realized that it was sitting pretty much on the ground... the suspension was lowered all the way down. It's all aired out and won't raise at all whatsoever. When we pulled up the 4x4 info on the navigation screen, all of the little lines that are normally little white lines and are above each tire on the screen, were showing up amber colored?? All 4 little lines were amber?? Do you, by chance, know what the issue might be?
Sorrry to hear. So one of the suspension airbags itself may have a leak. Or one of the hoses to them may have a leak. Or the compressor may have gone. And finally it could be the ecu. Those are the main components of the system. My guess given the age and how it went is the compressor. If that is it you’re in luck- sort of. Not the cheapest but not most expensive thing to fix either. And pretty easy. I got 120K miles on mine before it went. 🤞 for you.
Do you know where the compressor is located on this?
@@all_kat_glitters unfortunately I don’t. I can’t even remember where it is on the LR4 and I’ve since sold the vehicle.
Smh 🤦🏻♂️ what? How does the air compressor leave you stranded like the title implies?
Because it drops to the bump stops. At least mine did. Luckily I was 2 miles from home on roads. Also dropped to bump stops one time on me in the driveway for no reason I could figure when I started it. For some reason when there is an issue in the system or if it thinks there is it drops to the bump stops. If I had been offroad I would not have been able to drive it out. If I had been in the middle of a water crossing I would probably have flooded the engine. If you have oversize tires without heightened bumps stop sold by Proud Rhino they’ll jam in the wheelwell and it won’t move. Taking out the fuse kills the system and prevents it from dropping if it something is wrong or if it senses something wrong. So that’s how. Just make sure you put it into whatever offroad mode you want first.
Btw, this isn’t my hack. I got it from the Land Rover forums. When it happened it scared the sh*t outta me so bad cause I understood the ramifications if it happened offroad that I went looking for a solution. So I made the video to try to spread the word, causing finding the answer was not easy. Learn from others’ experience instead of being dismissive and it might just get you home one time, instead of being stranded and needing a very expensive tow, if even possible.
This is how hackers screw up their cars.
Not if you know what you are doing. If you’re gonna offroad you better know how to hack, fix and mod your vehicle. Because you may need to do it to get home.
Would have watched the video but the dog isn’t needed
What a half a** way to fix something.. if you couldn't afford that POS you shouldn't have bought it...
Please find a mechanic that knows what hes doing and put you're pliers away..
Lol. It’s not a fix, it’s a way to avoid a system doing something when you don’t want it to. You put it back when you’re done. If you can’t understand that maybe you shouldn’t comment. Please put your keyboard away and find someone who understands what the vid is about.
@@dadventuretv2538 Sorry I'm a actual professional mechanic and pulling fuses for modules you don't understand affects other systems you have no idea about. Have fun throwing expensive parts at it...
@@detroit149 do you work on LRs? Obviously not because if you did you would know that this is a hack that has been used on LR4s for years. Im not a pro but rebuilt my first engine and reinstalled it at 14. Over the years I’ve had to fix everything from mountain bikes to Rovers to get either myself or my buddy home. I do my research before I do anything. This works without adverse consequences, unless you lose the fuse. It will kill the terrain response but all you have to do is select the mode you want first. When you are on a trail where a tow truck cannot get you then a failure that will leave you stranded is catastrophic. If you have oversized tires and there is a failure in the EAS system and it drops to bump stops you are screwed. If you’re a pro you of all people should know how unique all the new vehicles are, especially when dealing with their electronic systems. So why don’t you do some research first before typing out d bag keyboard tough guy comments. You’re the reason I can’t take my rig to a general mechanic and only deal with specialists who work on off road modified rigs. There’s a big difference between a garage mechanic and a bush mechanic.
Wear the dam seatbelt!
@@robertjohnston3658 thanks. I went one block on a residential road. I was OK.