Outstanding job! Your enthusiasm and artistry are infectious Mr Brodie. Thank you for sharing your technique and thanks to Mitch for documenting the process. What an amazing team you make
I don't think a certain Mr Millyard could ever lose his BBQ (although the hedgehogs might well go AWOL). Here in Brisbane BBQs are to be found regularly on the footpath with "Free" notices attached to them when the crappy "stainless" steel starts to go rusty.
Ha. Yep. That's how I got my first BBQ. I fabricated new SS burners out of 16g 316 stainless, and they lasted more than 25 years. It was the first "real" thing I ever made in stainless - I did it right after I bought my TIG welder.
@@Alanbataar haha. I live in England and found my bbq with “free bbq / scrap metal” written on it by the side of a road. Some of the mild steel back panel had rotted out which supported one of the burners. Needless to say, she’s patched up and grilling strong still 5 years later.
My dad restored a Sunbeam S8 in the late 1970's... there was a broken fin on the head... he mixed magnesium power into araldite, and cast a new fin.... once it was filed to shape it was *almost* indistinguishable from the original casting...
5356 doesn't seem to work out well if used on parts which run very hot! I found that out, as I used it to make an exhaust, and all the welds cracked! Re-welded with 4043 and no more problems! Probably be fine on a head though.............
Thank you for doing these videos. All the neat tips and tricks are extremely helpful. I’ve been working with my hands fixing things and building things for a while now. And I’ve never failed to pick up some small trick or technique from every video. It’s always a pleasure to watch a great craftsman at work. And I love how you’re still super excited about every project, big or small. Thanks to Mitch as well for the awesome work on the videos!
Nice repair and finish. I did something similar but to an outboard engine. The cavitation plate was broken off. So I made a new part and welded it on and feathered it out and you can't even tell when the repair was made. Thumbs Up for your project and effort!
5356 spec sheet says not to use in applications above 150 degrees F. I use 4043 in castings that heat cycle. Have used 5356 in the past with no known ill affects though.
I’ve tried different alloys thru the years for cast al but the 4047 with its higher content of silicon has a wetting action that will eliminate that minor defect that you pointed out. You are an Artist
I've done a couple of those type repairs, as it seems that broken fins on the old Brit bikes I work on commonly have that same problem often, BUT you make it look WWAAYY easier than I ever did. Mine came out OK, but I usually had the broken piece to weld back on and then had to do only very little filing to match it all back up after welding! Thanks, Paul...now I just might be able to do a better job (and easier, too!).
7:00 Knipex pliers ... highly rated though yet to acquire a pair for myself. Noted that a button has to be pressed to release the jaws, they ratchet closed, which is maybe not always what you want in terms of using them to grab something like a hot piece of copper.
That fin repair was awesome Paul! I wanted to buy you a coffee, but, I noticed PayPal was no longer an option. What’s up? Thanks for the continued inspiration!
Lee, apparently Buy me a Coffee and PayPal have had a disagreement, and will not be doing business as usual. That may be why PayPal is no longer an option. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
Nice repair, you could have put a piece of copper bar in the hole and weld up to it, i've always carried copper plate and bar in my tool box it's good for filling big holes, it works on metal as well with MIG and stick.
Hello Paul. I once rebuilt broken Gold Star fins by turning the barrel on it's side and building up bead layer by layer. Every couple of passes I would file it to keep things consistent, then I'd add a couple of more layers. I think your method is better, because you are basically doing the whole fin in one sitting, where I was all the time back and forth between file, pre-heating, and welding. Have you ever tried this method? Excellent content. It would be an honor to work in your shop.
No, I have never tried you method. It sounds very time consuming, and you sure put the head through a lot of welding heat cycles that are hotter than just using the motor. Thanks for liking our videos :)
I watched the arc of your welding and I was wondering what Tungsten your using? you can look at the color on the end, 2% lanthanated tungsten electrodes are blue marked, pure tungsten is green marked, thoriated tungsten is red marked, ceriated tungsten is grey marked, 1.5% lanthanated tungsten is gold-colored, zirconiated tungsten is brown colored. I usually use pure tungsten or green for aluminum or lanthanated 2% which is gray also but a slightly different shade , but I also use AC on a high Frequency box, not sure if your running a high freq box or if your welder has that built in, but Tungsten can make a VAST difference in the welds on aluminumm, I keep lots of brass laying around for use as backing on aluminum like you did. love you work, oh I finally got around to sending you your package, and it returned this week. seems I left off part of your address....lol I will correct it and send it back as soon as I can get down to the post office this week. great job!
Looks like a great job. I'm a beginner TIG DIY welder only, but my "Welders Manual" tells me when welding alloy you need an extra Argon supply playing on the part while you're welding to prevent oxidation. My book is obviously wrong! That fin looks like part of the original, nice job!
Thanks Peter. Your manual may be correct. For welding steel I set the argon flow at 10 cfm and for aluminum I boost it to 20 cfm. There's the "extra" argon...
Buymeacoffee is easier than procuring a bag of coffee, putting it in a box, going to the post office, and spending $$ on postage. Thanks for liking our videos!
That came out rather nice. Have you tried a modified 7" carbide tipped circular saw blade to use as an extra deep slitting saw? They seem to work quite well on aluminium but 'ring' quite a bit. When I started in Honda/Triumph dealers way back, (I was there before the Jubilee Bonneville came out so 1977 ish) there was an old guy who came in to do repairs on aluminium bits. He used a bucket of sand to hold things in position which also maintained the heat. One day, he was Oxy welding a Triumph crankcase using an old piston held with pliers as filler. I was told he had been a welder during WWII and done similar on RR engines. Personally I never had any success oxy welding aluminium (never had enough practice)
@@paulbrodie I took a class from Evan Wilcox, who has a business crafting absolutely beautiful aluminum gas tanks for vintage bikes. He taught torch welding aluminum, he prefers it because welds are soft and ready for planishing. I just couldn't get the hang of it. I TIG then anneal with a torch if I need to planish the weld.
@@paulbrodie **Very** worthwhile! I don't know what the current situation is, but he used to teach 2 classes a year at The Crucible here in Oakland CA. IIRC, 1 day a week for 4 weeks. You'd be welcome at humble chez AL if you wanted to do the class.
There was prep work and thinking about it. Machining the copper to suit. Figuring out how to machine the hole. Deciding which rod to use. Looking for my toaster oven. I think you get the idea. Thanks for watching.
I was wondering if you ware going to weld a piece of alluminum or build it up like you did. and in the second case how. using that piece of copper was geniuous. great work! I guess you'll repair off camera the rest of the broken fins :)
@@paulbrodie Hi Paul. This was a very helpful video on using aluminium rods to build up a new fin. Is there perhaps a chance you could do a fin repair by welding the broken fin back on? Assuming you have the fin or a suitable matching piece of aluminium. Thank you.
@@StraightLineCycles It's probably wise not to get too ambitious with your first build. Make choices that are "doable" and don't try to reinvent the wheel. Trying to do too much is daunting, and can lead to an unfinished project. Good luck!
Wow. Timing again on this episode makes me think you or Mitch have a camera in my shop. So, because you have spoiled us all, I am going to register a complaint. That would be the arc shots!!!!! Especially on a cast aluminum head!!! Cast aluminum can be such a bummer at times, I was hoping to see the up close nasty stuff! Awesome episode, that fin looked impressively factory. I think your TIG setup puts you around 60HZ?
Thanks Glen. Yes, I have talked to Mitch and we will try to do more "extreme closeups" as one viewer has suggested. My welder was set at 45 amps, what the HZ is I have no idea, sorry.
@@paulbrodie if it’s transformer, it’s going to probably be a multiple of your line frequency. Inverters allow adjustment of AC. I need to try mine on AC soon. Last time I did aluminum was in 1988 - welding up a dustpan, which I still have!
I would Pay money to have Mitch drop something heavy on Pauls foot just to see Pauls response. I think Paul is just to nice a guy to ever raise his voice . Might go something like this “ Mitch that really hurt but now we can do a nice video of my expanding foot Ty Mitch “
Thanks Chris. I could have built up the fin until it was a little away from the other fins, and then welded on a plate, but decided just to keep on building it up. Yes, I have been planning for the exhaust stub. First step is to build a fixture.
hi paul thank you for the vid, i like your tig technique what diameter rod are you using? ha liked the 7:25 face :). what a collection of files just amazing (as your air sanders), love the file work. besides learning things i don´t know i like watching artisans like you bc you keep raising the bar for me to look up to doing a better job. thanks again.
That was time well spent, he was enjoying the entire process.
that looks better than the original fins, no ones going to notice the little dent, the rest of the fins are full of them. Nice repair Paul.
Thank you David.
It’s close to being too perfect against the years of wear on the rest of the fins. The little imperfection gives it authenticity.
@@goawaytours I agree.
Brilliant.
Outstanding job!
Your enthusiasm and artistry are infectious Mr Brodie.
Thank you for sharing your technique and thanks to Mitch for documenting the process.
What an amazing team you make
Thanks Jim. Very nice of you to say that :)
Best looking fin on the whole motor!
Why thank you!
I enjoy your videos brother
Thank you Yousef.
3 to go, that's a few hours on the file Paul you deserve more that coffee after that effort
I vote for videos 3 times a week! This 2x isn’t cutting it. Lol
Your vote is noted. Thanks for watching.
Superb as always. BTW I think that Anthony has your toaster oven......
I don't think a certain Mr Millyard could ever lose his BBQ (although the hedgehogs might well go AWOL). Here in Brisbane BBQs are to be found regularly on the footpath with "Free" notices attached to them when the crappy "stainless" steel starts to go rusty.
Ha. Yep. That's how I got my first BBQ. I fabricated new SS burners out of 16g 316 stainless, and they lasted more than 25 years. It was the first "real" thing I ever made in stainless - I did it right after I bought my TIG welder.
@@Alanbataar haha. I live in England and found my bbq with “free bbq / scrap metal” written on it by the side of a road. Some of the mild steel back panel had rotted out which supported one of the burners. Needless to say, she’s patched up and grilling strong still 5 years later.
That's a very skilled repair. Well done and thanks for sharing your technique.
Thank you Steven.
As good as new! Fantastic craftsmanship
Thank you!
sei un artista,ordinato,molto preciso....bravissimo...un piacere vederti al lavoro
Thanks for watching!
nice work!
Great job PAUL.
Nice repair,that little weld dimple could be filled and once painted would be invisable.
Nice work.its lookin good
My dad restored a Sunbeam S8 in the late 1970's... there was a broken fin on the head... he mixed magnesium power into araldite, and cast a new fin.... once it was filed to shape it was *almost* indistinguishable from the original casting...
Araldite is an epoxy? I'm not sure. If it is, what happened when the head got hot?
@@paulbrodie it is, a UK flavor, if I recall correctly.
I patched a hole in the sump of a GS Suzuki with araldite, & a small piece of aluminium. It was still there 8 yearts & 80k later. Amazing product.
Hard work pays off Paul, you’ll have a nice cylinder head !
Thanks Sebastien. Exhaust port is next.
@@paulbrodie did you find a big tap for it?
@@sebastiengarneau3886 A friend loaned me a 30mm tap, but I'm not going use it.
the initial few minutes of this video I was so in step with you. Getting old only makes us interesting
Yes, interesting is so much better than boring.
Cool repair.
Perfekt 👍😃
Nice work Mr Brodie....
Thanks Steve.
👍👌 another great episode
Cheers Chris
Thanks Chris!
Great fix Mr Brodie! See ya Wednesday.
Rick, sounds like a plan..
I'm glad I found this channel. I aspire to have these capabilities. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you Dan.
Really enjoying content like this Paul & Mitch.
Thank you so much for sharing these journeys.
Cheers from Wisconsin !
Hello Wisconsin! Jason, thanks for watching and commenting.
Metal 3D printing - done manually! Super job!
Very nice work 👍.
Compliments on Your workmanship, great result!
Thanks Eric!
It's almost 'fin'nished!!
Good humour!
So Paul can find a piece of copper from 20 years ago, but he can't find his toaster oven...welcome to the mind of The Fussy Frame Builder...👍😂👍
I truly believe that not everything in this world can be explained.
Nor should we try...but we can't have a laugh...👍😂👍
Really good job that is some really good skill right there!
I practiced for the video :)
5356 doesn't seem to work out well if used on parts which run very hot! I found that out, as I used it to make an exhaust, and all the welds cracked! Re-welded with 4043 and no more problems! Probably be fine on a head though.............
Exhaust pipes have vibration and 5356 is a "hard" rod, I am told. 4043 is a "soft" rod so likely allows more flex before cracking.
Another piece of art 🤩
Thank you.
Great result , tidy job.
Thanks Tom.
ok top job well done
I use a electric frypan for preheating and curing small paint jobs.
Christopher from Down Under
I don't have an electric frying pan, and I can't find my toaster oven. That is my world.
Sei un artista 👍🇮🇹
that's cool!
I absolutely love what can be accomplished with a file.
Me too. I fear that using a file has become a bit of a lost art.
Brilliant! Love the use of a scissor jack as an arm rest for welding. I've been Tig welding for years and I find arm and hand support essential.
good job well done that is how i did the 850 same way ///even the bit at the end
Thanks Bill. Glad you had success too!
You are inspirational. I want to buy another TIG and get back to making things. Life got in the way for a while. Thanks. I will get you some coffee.
That would be great if you got back into making things. I encourage you!
Thank you for doing these videos. All the neat tips and tricks are extremely helpful. I’ve been working with my hands fixing things and building things for a while now. And I’ve never failed to pick up some small trick or technique from every video. It’s always a pleasure to watch a great craftsman at work. And I love how you’re still super excited about every project, big or small. Thanks to Mitch as well for the awesome work on the videos!
Wacky, thanks for watching and commenting :)
Nice repair and finish. I did something similar but to an outboard engine. The cavitation plate was broken off. So I made a new part and welded it on and feathered it out and you can't even tell when the repair was made. Thumbs Up for your project and effort!
Thank you Gary.
5356 spec sheet says not to use in applications above 150 degrees F. I use 4043 in castings that heat cycle. Have used 5356 in the past with no known ill affects though.
nice job on that paul, that filing is hard work,
but so rewarding, its an art in itself ,
Paul never sees problems only solutions.
Thank you Barclay.
@@paulbrodie you will always have my attention Sargent .
You can just tell people that little mark is just a defect in the casting. Nice work.
Thank you John B.
Nice...and I see the swingarm newly painted.
Bruno, you have an Eagle Eye! I just finished welding the Aermacchi frame so it will get painted too. Assembly on the Horizon :)
I’ve tried different alloys thru the years for cast al but the 4047 with its higher content of silicon has a wetting action that will eliminate that minor defect that you pointed out. You are an Artist
Great job Paul, you made it look easy :)
Thanks Hepcat Harley!
You do good work!
Very useful video, I've had to weld Volkswagen fins back on before and it's a pain... This technique looks much simpler! Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome!
Really enjoyed that, you make it look so easy.
I do have a habit of making things look easy. Took me decades to get there. Thanks for watching.
I hate when I loose my toaster oven! Then I find it ten years later with a part in it that I forgot I powder coated.😂
I've done a couple of those type repairs, as it seems that broken fins on the old Brit bikes I work on commonly have that same problem often, BUT you make it look WWAAYY easier than I ever did. Mine came out OK, but I usually had the broken piece to weld back on and then had to do only very little filing to match it all back up after welding! Thanks, Paul...now I just might be able to do a better job (and easier, too!).
Thanks for watching.
You are on a fin fixing kick these past few weeks.... But I guess when nobody else is doing it, you have to do it yourself. 😁
I could probably find someone local who fixes fins, but what fun is that?
@@paulbrodie - Our ideas of fun are very different but I guess if I was able to afford all of the same tools, I'd be the same way.... LoL
👍 Awesome skills 👍 looks great
Thanks Ray.
Sickkk
Exactly.
As always, thank you Paul & Mitch. BTW, I went to buy a "that's a good fit" t-shirt, and your merch site didn't want to load.
I have alerted Mitch to the situation. Thanks.
7:00 Knipex pliers ... highly rated though yet to acquire a pair for myself. Noted that a button has to be pressed to release the jaws, they ratchet closed, which is maybe not always what you want in terms of using them to grab something like a hot piece of copper.
I like my pliers. Not cheap, but high quality.
Super nice job Paul-Well Done ✅👍
Mitch and I thank you very much.
That fin repair was awesome Paul! I wanted to buy you a coffee, but, I noticed PayPal was no longer an option. What’s up? Thanks for the continued inspiration!
Lee, apparently Buy me a Coffee and PayPal have had a disagreement, and will not be doing business as usual. That may be why PayPal is no longer an option. Thanks for watching and commenting :)
@@paulbrodie Thanks for the response Paul.
Mail don't matter like to watch your skills
Nice repair, you could have put a piece of copper bar in the hole and weld up to it, i've always carried copper plate and bar in my tool box it's good for filling big holes, it works on metal as well with MIG and stick.
That would work too. I did not have any copper bar in my possession, only flat stock.
Hello Paul. I once rebuilt broken Gold Star fins by turning the barrel on it's side and building up bead layer by layer. Every couple of passes I would file it to keep things consistent, then I'd add a couple of more layers. I think your method is better, because you are basically doing the whole fin in one sitting, where I was all the time back and forth between file, pre-heating, and welding. Have you ever tried this method? Excellent content. It would be an honor to work in your shop.
No, I have never tried you method. It sounds very time consuming, and you sure put the head through a lot of welding heat cycles that are hotter than just using the motor. Thanks for liking our videos :)
I watched the arc of your welding and I was wondering what Tungsten your using? you can look at the color on the end, 2% lanthanated tungsten electrodes are blue marked, pure tungsten is green marked, thoriated tungsten is red marked, ceriated tungsten is grey marked, 1.5% lanthanated tungsten is gold-colored, zirconiated tungsten is brown colored. I usually use pure tungsten or green for aluminum or lanthanated 2% which is gray also but a slightly different shade , but I also use AC on a high Frequency box, not sure if your running a high freq box or if your welder has that built in, but Tungsten can make a VAST difference in the welds on aluminumm, I keep lots of brass laying around for use as backing on aluminum like you did. love you work, oh I finally got around to sending you your package, and it returned this week. seems I left off part of your address....lol I will correct it and send it back as soon as I can get down to the post office this week. great job!
Mitch, I think I have the green tungstens. Thanks for liking our videos!
Looks like a great job. I'm a beginner TIG DIY welder only, but my "Welders Manual" tells me when welding alloy you need an extra Argon supply playing on the part while you're welding to prevent oxidation. My book is obviously wrong!
That fin looks like part of the original, nice job!
Thanks Peter. Your manual may be correct. For welding steel I set the argon flow at 10 cfm and for aluminum I boost it to 20 cfm. There's the "extra" argon...
@@paulbrodie Ah, many thanks.
No mail must mean no coffee packages. Do you have a preferred brand? Really enjoy your videos.
Buymeacoffee is easier than procuring a bag of coffee, putting it in a box, going to the post office, and spending $$ on postage. Thanks for liking our videos!
That came out rather nice.
Have you tried a modified 7" carbide tipped circular saw blade to use as an extra deep slitting saw?
They seem to work quite well on aluminium but 'ring' quite a bit.
When I started in Honda/Triumph dealers way back, (I was there before the Jubilee Bonneville came out so 1977 ish) there was an old guy who came in to do repairs on aluminium bits. He used a bucket of sand to hold things in position which also maintained the heat.
One day, he was Oxy welding a Triumph crankcase using an old piston held with pliers as filler.
I was told he had been a welder during WWII and done similar on RR engines. Personally I never had any success oxy welding aluminium (never had enough practice)
I have tried oxy-acetylene aluminum welding with zero success. I will stick to Tig.
@@paulbrodie I took a class from Evan Wilcox, who has a business crafting absolutely beautiful aluminum gas tanks for vintage bikes. He taught torch welding aluminum, he prefers it because welds are soft and ready for planishing. I just couldn't get the hang of it. I TIG then anneal with a torch if I need to planish the weld.
@@Alanbataar Evan does nice stuff! I would take a class from him.
@@paulbrodie **Very** worthwhile! I don't know what the current situation is, but he used to teach 2 classes a year at The Crucible here in Oakland CA. IIRC, 1 day a week for 4 weeks. You'd be welcome at humble chez AL if you wanted to do the class.
@@Alanbataar Thanks Alan, but it seems the course was designed for locals, not someone who lives in a different country more than 1000 miles away.
I didn’t think this was possible
Are you a believer now?
Lovely work. How long did it take overall less presentation?
There was prep work and thinking about it. Machining the copper to suit. Figuring out how to machine the hole. Deciding which rod to use. Looking for my toaster oven. I think you get the idea. Thanks for watching.
I was wondering if you ware going to weld a piece of alluminum or build it up like you did. and in the second case how. using that piece of copper was geniuous. great work!
I guess you'll repair off camera the rest of the broken fins :)
Someone told me about the copper trick many years ago. Yes, the rest of the fins will be repaired off camera.
@@paulbrodie Hi Paul. This was a very helpful video on using aluminium rods to build up a new fin. Is there perhaps a chance you could do a fin repair by welding the broken fin back on? Assuming you have the fin or a suitable matching piece of aluminium. Thank you.
@@barkchip1872 Yes, in the right conditions you can weld a fin back on. It's not a problem.
Nice work Paul. But the exhaust port looks a bit messy.
Thank you Paul. The exhaust port is next.
Put a piece of tape on your finger those vixen files are sharp 🤔
And he’s Canadian of coarse !
Born in the UK, and now Canadian, of course!
Very interesting. I would have not thought of doing it quite that way. Thanks for showing!
Mark, thanks for watching.
Im building my first custom motorcycle, the Diecycle, an upside down dirt bike.
That will send the blood to your head for sure!
@@paulbrodie its definitely a difficult learning experience.
@@StraightLineCycles It's probably wise not to get too ambitious with your first build. Make choices that are "doable" and don't try to reinvent the wheel. Trying to do too much is daunting, and can lead to an unfinished project. Good luck!
@@paulbrodie thank you sir 😁 🙏
Hello Paul ! What media do you use inside your sanding cabinet ? Result is really clear and smooth
I use number 6 glass bead at about 80 psi...
Beautiful. What media did you use for final blasting? Silica? Soda?
Thank you. For blasting I use No. 6 glass bead...
@@paulbrodie Such a nice shop.
Thank you.. It's the only one I've got...
Wow. Timing again on this episode makes me think you or Mitch have a camera in my shop. So, because you have spoiled us all, I am going to register a complaint. That would be the arc shots!!!!! Especially on a cast aluminum head!!! Cast aluminum can be such a bummer at times, I was hoping to see the up close nasty stuff! Awesome episode, that fin looked impressively factory. I think your TIG setup puts you around 60HZ?
Thanks Glen. Yes, I have talked to Mitch and we will try to do more "extreme closeups" as one viewer has suggested. My welder was set at 45 amps, what the HZ is I have no idea, sorry.
@@paulbrodie if it’s transformer, it’s going to probably be a multiple of your line frequency. Inverters allow adjustment of AC.
I need to try mine on AC soon. Last time I did aluminum was in 1988 - welding up a dustpan, which I still have!
@@dennisyoung4631 I bought my welders in 1988..
👍👍😁😁
Nice work as usual Paul, do you use chalk on your files when doing aluminm to keep them from clogging?
Thank you William. I have not yet used chalk on my files.
Quick question. What is Delran, is that a trade name? Where do you buy it? I looked on McMaster Carr, no listing. Thanks
Delrin is a brand name, but that's what everyone calls it around here. A plastics supply shop is where we get ours.
Weld sounds dirty. Cast
I would Pay money to have Mitch drop something heavy on Pauls foot just to see Pauls response. I think Paul is just to nice a guy to ever raise his voice . Might go something like this “ Mitch that really hurt but now we can do a nice video of my expanding foot Ty Mitch “
Nice job, thought you were going to weld a fin on at first rather than build it up in weld. Do you have a plan for the exhaust stub?
Thanks Chris. I could have built up the fin until it was a little away from the other fins, and then welded on a plate, but decided just to keep on building it up. Yes, I have been planning for the exhaust stub. First step is to build a fixture.
When welding this kind of casting, what welding rod is used? 4043? 5336? Something else entirely?
10:07
I think I said 5356, and then I said 5053. It's 5356; that's my final answer.
@@chrisallen9154 didn’t get that far in the initial viewing. Am trying to finish up now.
Why don't you have a workshop full of eager youngsters?
I'm not a breeder, apparently. No kids.
hi paul thank you for the vid, i like your tig technique what diameter rod are you using? ha liked the 7:25 face :). what a collection of files just amazing (as your air sanders), love the file work. besides learning things i don´t know i like watching artisans like you bc you keep raising the bar for me to look up to doing a better job. thanks again.
The rod diameter I used was 1/16", but 3/32" would have been as good or better. Thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie oh i thought it was small dia rod bc you said 45A i like that low heat input. thanks for your reply.
@@thebrokenbone Yes, 1/16"is a small diameter rod, and I was using 45 amps.
Use a BBQ!
Like Allen M. 😅
I do have a BBQ, but then I would have to walk from the shop up to my house 2X...
5356 all the time
Where is this guy from? 80% of the time it sounds like New England, then there’s a few words that sound like he’s English.
I was born in the UK.
Do you not own a Dremel ?
Yes I have my Fathers Dremel...
What, no gas grill like our British bloke buddy?
I do have a BBQ but it's up at the house, and it takes me 56 seconds to walk each way from the shop...
@@paulbrodie , that would be just enough time to grab a fresh scone!!!
@@froat1 I don't do scones. Too much sugar for me!
@@paulbrodie, i remember the ‘Vinton’ hybrids from the day. Pretty sweet bikes.
That fin was never broken 😁
Giovanni, it really was broken, I swear.