I get a big kick out of the fact that Paul expresses surprise upon achieving perfect fitment of a part which he scrupulously planned and artistically executed several machining processes.
@@gpw203 Because it's in engineering where the technologies [besides arguably semi-conductors, although that has its own engineering] are executed. Engineering is such an under appreciated practice by almost everyone. When I was a teenager I totally dismissed engineering, because people who worked with their hands did the daily stuff, and I didn't want to do that. I ended up getting a BSc in Env Sce. But the older I got the more I appreciated making things with precision. I'm not an engineer, but I can set up and use machinery like manual lathes and capstans. I can stick and mig weld too, reasonably well. But I have to do it all in baby steps. A proper engineer can visualise the solution, work it out, and properly execute it in the correct manner. And there are loads of different engineers at all levels. To the average person it's modern magic. Agreed on the therapeutic, by the way.
Hi Paul. I also did this modification, on my cub, but I put a bearing in, as well as a seal, for extra support for shaft. The plate needed an extra top-hat section to fit both.
I have a friend, Tom Mellor, and he has 12 records at Bonneville. He rides a 1969 Triumph 750/1000 triple. He pulled the bike on a trailer behind his 1970(?) Rolls Royce...
Ok, I'll be that guy. It's one serration on the chuck jaws. It goes faster if you use two parallels simultaneously. No fiddling required. Many of us have all the tools Paul has, but he gets wayyyy more done because of his know-how. We're seeing a lifetime of learning and experience on display twice weekly. Thanks, Paul, for the motivation.
The BSA Starfire I owned had a similar plate behind the clutch as standard (BSA Starfire was last C15). I remember assembling it without the plate. When I changed main bearings. When they failed they stripped the pinion timing cog. New main bearings were a BSA upgrade to ball bearing race one side and a special and expensive barrel roller race the other side. 50+ years ago now!
Hi Paul and Mitch, firstly I would like to thank you for all the amazing content being made, I am enjoying it very very much. I would just like to say that I especially like some anecdotes from the past, maybe even an episode where you take us around your shop and Paul briefly goes through his work so far. Thank you and be well, Mark
Paul - really enjoy that you share the journeys you go on - and the thoughtfulness involved with achieving a desired end result. Thank you. I'm starting to get stuck into a rebuild/refurbish of a '69 Bultaco Mk2 Campera bike. (175cc / 2 stroke / 5-speed / electronic ignition bike) Was my father's - tucked into a barn due to magnito failure shortly before my birth in 1973. Watching your work gives me a lot of inspiration. One of the dynamics of a desired end-result on this enduro Bultaco build - is for a left/right shift/brake swap. (my '96 900ss/sp, and my '72 cb350K3 bike are both brake on right - with GP shift on left) .. so to get the Spanish left/right foot controls swapped is going to take proper-engineered cross-shafts.. two of them.. for zero slop and well-leveraged mechanical action. Your level of obsessiveness is congruent with my own.. Cheers from WI !
Jason, thanks for watching and commenting. I did the shifting conversion on my Vincent. I put a lot of thought into it, and the parts were well made. It added slop and flex in the shaft, no matter how fussy I was. It will never shift as crisply as no linkage. I just learned how to ride and race with the shifting on the right, upside down too.
@@paulbrodie Oy.. ouch.. and I get it.. engineering-wise, the transfer points are too many. Once in youth, I swapped a cbr600f2 bike to GP shift (just flipped the linkage) - and after getting accustomed to it - it was like the way [god?] intended. It was for me. A '94 900ss/sp bike is in my stable - and one of favorite parts about that bike was pulling off all the linkage for a "reverse" pattern (down for up), one piece aluminum unit which mounts straight off the cog. Nirvana. Zero slop. Other bike in stable is a '72 cb350k4 bike. ~14 years ownership .. etc.. anyway also flipped linkage on it to GP pattern. Yes. Yes I can flip/accommodate as needed - but there's always that time when you mistakenly brake on - or go to shift on - the wrong peg.. For the bikes I have and love and maintain - and in my age - I just want their shifting/braking to be all congruent. Build them all for myself kind of deal.. and in any event that takes much thought and .. conviction .. Cheers Mate
My 71 Bonneville engine has a removeable panel to access the drive sprocket much like what your doing here Mr. Brodie. I guess they had savings in mind when they designed the cubs, nice modification whoever replaces the sprocket in the future will be very happy you spent the time to do this "Engine Mod" Thanks for sharing! Good work on the editing Mitch!
One of our old machinist used a technique called pressure turning. So that plate wouldnt be chucked on the od. He would use the tailstock to center on the hole you drilled. He would them push that plate onto the front edge of the chuck teeth. Then you can turn the od concentric to the hole. No arbor required. Nice video paul as always.
I wish I had the money/tools to do stuff like this. I don't know that I could bring myself to cut a hole in that old of an engine case but.. I've always wanted to reproduce old engines that no one makes and upgrade them. A perfect example would be the old Indian/Ace/Henderson 4 or the Crocker or Vincent Vtwins.. It'd be really cool to take those old engines that NO ONE makes copies of and not only remake them, but make them out of aluminum where they were mostly iron back in the day. Dropping the weight by 2/3'rd and improving some of the systems and upping compression would make those engines come alive.. plus they wouldn't be original so you could beat on them or modify them without worrying about potentially destroying an irreplaceable piece of motorcycle history. Currently there's a 57 Tiger Cub for sale near me for $1000obo it's in really ROUGH shape and is definitely missing some parts and comes with some extras but I've wanted one since I was in my single digits. (I'm 37 now btw) I always wanted to learn to ride on one growing up. While I'm probably far too large for one now at 6'10 and 315lbs, I'd still love to save this one and work on it and be able to put around town on it and even let my nephew/nieces learn to ride on it if they wanted to. (unfortunately I don't have kids of my own) While it wouldn't go anywhere quickly, I'm sure it'd have enough torque to probably get me up to cruising around town speeds. (25mph) I think the hardest part would just be making the suspension strong enough to deal with my weight. I'd guess figuring out how to put Yamaha WR250 front fork set on it would probably be the best way to cope with my weight, combined with a speced out set of piggyback coilovers in the back, which would also allow you to upgrade to a front disc brake at the same time. The hard part of that would be finding out if they have the right shaft length/diameter and if you can get a bearing set that'll fit and if the shaft/trees set the fork angle correctly so you aren't messing with the rake. I guess the easiest upgrade would be to find a set of 500 forks and throw them on, not that even those are really meant to work with someone my weight.. at least the WR forks can be re-valved to cope with added weight. Hell, even John (lunmad Triumph.. RIP my friend) added extra springs in the form of valve springs into his forks on his 72 Bonnie to give him some extra ride quality and he wasn't very heavy at all. Looking at the pictures it might already have a set though as it has the rubber gaters on the forks. (if you were to run a 500 front fork, it wouldn't be hard to upgrade to the bigger drum brake as well.. we happen to already have a set of 19 inch wheels with the bigger drums on them in our garage.. While most people would say the 4.5-5 inch drums are enough on that light of a bike, remembering that I weigh more than the bike says to me it needs better brakes.)
Well, thanks for watching and commenting... The forks on my Cub are the same as the Heavyweight Triumph 500 forks, and I also added the 500 8" brake drum too, in case you haven't seen the latest of our Cub videos... I also have reproduced Excelsior V-twin motors. If you watch our Excelsior videos you will get a good sense of how that got accomplished...
@@paulbrodie Yeah I just discovered your videos last night. Your accent has been throwing me for a loop, you definitely don't sound like a typical Brit or Canadian. I just watched your "We're Back" video and heard about what you used to do and what you're going through. Cancer.. how that stuff is still allowed to exist, if only the world could stop trying to kill each other/arguing long enough to put our collective minds together and destroy the thing that's taken countless lives. Both my grandmothers (one before I was born) one grandpa, a couple great uncles, and various other family members have been taken by cancers.. in fact I might have thyroid cancer thanks to this 1.6cm nodule on my throat. -.- If you ever get bored and want to see a couple short videos of my dad's bikes, I've got them on my other channel.. including a 1965 T120C. th-cam.com/play/PL6Gz_TRD0rk3HWVwz5Wgl0hHWPxJCxzp6.html
What a great idea. always Good to watch your self and Mitch achieving such high standards of work. Clean tidy surroundings, a pleasure to be part of the deal. Dave from Australia
I didn’t know that the Cub didn’t have a sprocket access plate so this is a very worthwhile modification. I used to own a BSA C15, which did have one and it was essentially the same motor. I now have an iron barrelled Royal Enfield 350 Bullet which also has one. Even so it’s annoyingly complicated to have to dismantle the entire primary drive side just to change the sprocket. Officially speaking I think you you need four special tools and a very large socket spanner to remove everything just to get at it! I can’t help comparing it to a 1977 CZ Enduro 250 I owned where you could see the sprocket from the side of the bike and just two easily accessible hexagon headed screws held it in place. I’d think it was a five minute job to remove and refit it.
Edited: I just found a photo of the CZ. In fact to hold on the sprocket there was just a central hexagon nut locked by a simple tab washer. No need to dismantle anything else. The bike also had a dry multi plate clutch directly on the crankshaft and it could be kickstarted in gear.
It's a good Mod Paul, similar to the B group engines. Steve Burns, there's a blast from the past. He was more famous for huge Suzuki drag racing bikes than Tiger Cubs in the 1980s. He was based in the UK then and was regularly featured in 'Performance Bikes' magazine. Best wishes, Dean at Retromeccanica, Oxfordshire, UK.
The 350/500 & 650 Triumph motors all have a door there which seems a crime to not have on the Cub. Compared to Japanese and most modern bikes where the sprocket is under a simple cover, the old British bikes are a whipping to change sprockets on. You’re building quite a special motor, Paul! Your skills are inspiring.
Hi Paul, Somewhere in the dim darkness of my memory there is an image of a countershaft sprocket access hole that was relieved to fit a larger than usual sprocket on the shaft. Notches were cut to allow the tips of the teeth to clear the opening, this did not affect the sealing of the seal carrier to the inner clutch case. This was done to either a BSA A65 or a Series C black Shadow spec Vincent 1300 used in a racing sidecar. Enjoying your adventures immensely , Take care.
@Alfred Wedmore You are correct, although I vaguely recall that it was setup with a bastardised Norton clutch and grr box lashed to the engine. This was 50+ years ago and I was more taken with the engine and the mini wheel frame than anything else and really wanted a ride on it as passenger. Thank you.
I have a Junak M10 1963 polish motorcycle, which is build in a very similar way to the Cub and other Triumphs. It actually has the feature which you are making in this video. Chaninging front sprocket is still painfull because you have to dismantle the whole clutch.
@@paulbrodie Yes, very much. With some local flavores added. You would be very familiar with Junak M10 despite you probably have never seen it. Junak M10 has a bit of cult around it. It was purely (well, inspired a "bit" by british constructions) polish bike, 4 stroke and kind of luxury motorcycle behind iron curtain. Slightly flamboyant in comparison of super simple and crude 2 strokes which dominated socialists countries in the 50/60.
@@paulbrodie You are very welcome. I thank you for the great content and countless "nice fits". If you are interested in Junak m10 let me know - I can translate something for you - I believe there's not much info available in English.
Another Great show, in particular I like your belief, belief that you are going to do more than 15 thousand miles which is the distance a well oiled chain and sprocket last. I Believe. :-)
Thank you Mike. I want to get the gearing right. I have asked several Cub enthusiasts about gearing, and not one had an answer, probably because they don't ride much at all.
Hi paul: if you reference diamond chain or machinery handbook. They say do not use a even numbered tooth drive sprocket. Because of wear. I checked several manufacturers honda KTM. they use uneven tooth drive sprockets. Also if you have a choice between a light chain and a heavy one in the same size chain use the light one. It's easier on the sprockets. Love you mods and planning you do. Very inspirational
Thank you John. I don't believe this will be a high mileage machine. I just want to get the gearing right. You are probably correct about an even numbered tooth sprocket..
A Cub expert, here in UK, used to fit sprocket windows into motors which were assembled and fitted into bikes. Seem to remember him boring the hole with a hole saw and a brace and bit (hand drill type of thing), cant remember any of the rest, but they used to work fine.............
Very convenient mod! I always thought it was impractical, having to remove the primary case to change sprockets on my motorcycles. And with the unit-motors it's even worse.
Hi Paul…. Fantastic workmanship & video (Mitch) as usual 👍 I was on the edge of my seat when you were boring that hole in the casing 😤😤😤😜…. Loved the witness mark story …. every days a school day 👍….. I see that your tolerance’s are tight, Will the gaskets push the oil seal further off the brass bush when you do the final assembly, Is this something you also have to allow for ?
Another excellent video! Two steps forward and one step back, but always progressing. I like your "T" lathe hammer...lol. What would one do without a bandsaw, lathe and a vise. Can't wait to see what you do next to make it fit perfectly!
Steve burns that’s a blast from the past he built some of the best specials in the most notably spondon framed turbo charged Suzukis he had a massive accident and one of the reasons he moved to the Southern Hemisphere a man after your own heart he had a really excellent eye for what was good and what fitted.
Hey Paul, An alternate technique for truing wobbly parts in the lathe: a/Place part in chuck, b/run late in reverse, c/bring cutting tool up to part and touch work, d/due to the rake on the tool the part will centre itself and run true with minimal or no marking. e/tighten chuck and check trueness. f/ continue with operation. IMHO this has always worked for me on small and larger diameter work. As always good stuff T
Our metalwork teacher, a good guy, talked about witness marks right before explaining our final class was to be sitting quietly in the 100 Mile House provincial courtroom. The coincidence was intentional as our shop teacher was also our escort. The court soap opera was strange where everyone was known by someone and a few were known by everyone. Stolen snowmobiles was the case and everyone knew where they were except the people in suits trying to find out where they were. Funny how some small town days stick with you. My brodie's have a few witness marks from occasions when witnesses accidentally came in handy.
As always, thanks Paul & Mitch. Wow.... Steve Burns. There's a name I haven't heard in ages. His Spondon Monster was *very* influential on my thinking about bikes at the time. Although, it must not have been **that** influential b/c I haven't built a turbo bike (yet, but there's still time.) It's wild that a guy who made a name by riding 250+ hp bikes is into Cubs. My, how the times change, and us along with it.
Dear Mr Brodie, since we are talking mods and sprockets here. I'd like to address your expertise a simple question. Is it possible or rather advisable to drill a stock motorcycle rear sprocket`s screw hole larger? I guess they come heat treated and surface hardened
I think sprockets (steel) are made of a good steel, but I doubt that they are heat treated and surface hardened. I did drill out my Cub rear sprocket to use a slightly larger (and non-standard) bolt, and it was no problem... Thanks for watching!
Hi Paul & Mitch, Find myself looking forward to each video. You two never let me down, either. Love to see how each of your mods brings functionality to the part you're improving at the moment. Wondering if @OMAD's Dad's notching suggestion would allow you to include 19 tooth sprocket as a possibility... what are your thoughts?
Interesting mod. I wonder if the cover you made could sit on the outside instead of inside - it would sit lower, there would be more room and no interference with the clutch.
Hi Paul, as usual, great episode. Steve Burns was quite a guy here (UK) in the late 80s and early 90s, his bikes were always featured in Performance Bikes magazine, his one creation was a Turbo GSX1100 in a Spondon chassis, It was given the name "Monster", quite a bike indeed, there are a few videos on youtube of him with the Monster, I met him at the TT back then, he was at Ramsay sprint on the Spondon, a very fast bike indeed, I often wondered where he went, he actually was remembered in one of the UK bike mags a few months ago when they ran an article on Spondon engineering. watch this for Steve at Ramsay sprint th-cam.com/video/4mlyYsbHV3E/w-d-xo.html
Fascinating. Did later Cubs have the access door from stock? BSAs I worked in had access but don't recall off hand if all the BSA singles had one. They sure were cutting corners to keep the cost down on those old Cubs - must've been a carry over from the 150cc Terrier origins.
Isn't it funny, how when we got out of high school, we didn't think of ourselves as kids anymore. A thicker piece would allow the step and the seal to go deeper.
Paul, I think BSC thread's are 60 degrees, and BSW are 55 degrees, I could be wrong though. Nice mod though, BSA did it on a lot of there bikes, so you only had to take the clutch out to change the sprocket. Best of luck with it.
You are not wrong at all. BSC = 60 degrees, BSW (and BSF) = 55 degrees. (And I noticed that you have a video on a WD B40, which happens to be just my thing...)
That design is ridiculous! Changing sprockets for gearing is something that many owners want to do from time to time, not to mention replacing sprockets when they wear out. It's hard to imagine what was gained by Triumph in carrying that design through to production.
Cost, most people wouldn't need to go near the drive sprocket if a change of gearing is required the rear can be changed but as you say when it's worn out it's an engine split. Difference here is Paul intends to use it for trials (I made a mistake here , this is complete hogwash) so convenient (still have to remove the clutch) drive gear changes are more important.
@@paulbrodie true sorry I misinterpreted that one, the jack under the frame loop threw me I didn't consider the low exhaust And you didn't say it was for trials. Someone else commented on your manifold vid about it being a trials plodder which kind of backed up my misinformed delusions.
Wow. For many episodes of this Cub project, I've teased Paul about the horrid engineering of the bike. Now he is fixing the worst of the many worst parts: the need to pull the engine and split the cases just to change the counter shaft gear. Its for sure going to be the world's greatest Cub when he's done.
@@paulbrodie There is an obvious answer to the issue that a 19 tooth gear won't fit in your magic removable plate/hole: change the rear sprocket. I don't know what the primary and transmission gears are, but where are you really gonna need a 19th counter shaft gear anyway with the 15 or so HP that the Cub will have.
@@chasejiannalone8763 Got it. Maybe a device with prongs to fit in a few of the roller valleys between the teeth would suffice. Sprockets are super hard for drilling and tapping.
Hi Mitch and Paul. I am not a machinist or an engineer, but a couple of questions. You use a plumber’s hacksaw not an ‘s hacksaw…so does Allen Millard… and you both accomplish great things. I was taught that a hacksaw is just a very narrow file and should be used a such, one hand to guide on the handle and one on the other end to pull through the work piece. Have I been laboring under an apprehension all these years? And… you don’t part off in the lathe. Was my old metal work teacher, late of Saunders Roe on the Isle of Wight barking up the wrong tree? And if so, why?
I have ever heard of a hacksaw referred to as a Plumber's Hacksaw. I don't think of a hacksaw as a narrow file; it is a Hacksaw. Today we shot a video and I parted off a bronze bushing in my lathe. I do part off, just not excessively.
Hey Paul, could you bore out the hole for the seal from the other side (sprocket side) of the plate? Would this bring the seal into contact with bushing. Enjoyable video, as always
Hi Paul I noticed your 3 jaw chuck seems to run very true. Did you grind the jaws yourself? Perhaps you could say a few words about that the next time you turn something on the lathe. Thanks Glenn
Hi Paul /Mitch reading your history , as a 9 old living in Southampton , couldn't help but wonder if you got your inspiration looking into the shop window of Sid Lawton M/cs . Prominent tuner of the Aermacchi in his day .Woodford St. if I recall correctly .
My father never took me to the motorcycle shops, but we did watch a Steeplechase somewhere in Southampton in the spring of '64, and that made a big impression on me!
@@paulbrodie yes between the two halves, ok thats awesome Paul, Ive used solely shellac in the past and that worked perfect also...always enjoy watching your engineering craftmanship, simply the BEST!
You would be so good at using old engines and fitting electric motors in them so the transmission components can still be used.... I'd love to see a collaborative build w/ you and another TH-camr that does the gas to electric conversions, like the guys doing Honda Cub conversions. Using a complete bike but they gut the motors and put the electric drive components inside the block and the tanks are used to hold the battery pack... Would that be something you would be interested in doing¿?
Well, me and electrics don't get along. Our history is not good. I like electric vehicles, but it would be very hard for me to get enthusiastic about a project of this kind.
@@paulbrodie - I'd love to do something like this w/ you but I'm a nobody, but I'd find a good bike that would be an easy conversion then send you the motor so you can empty it out and add some mounting points for the electric motor and gears then I'd do the electric work and final construction myself... I know you'd be able to come up w/ some very cool ideas .
Is there a fix for the crank oil feed on the right case half? That's what killed my old cub many years ago. Crank was a titch worn, and the bushing(s) in the case as well also. There just wasn't a fix back in the day, and neither were cranks. About 5 years later, there was a shop in the UK that started producing and selling right crank parts. My poor cub. It was so fun while it lasted : (
I would only bother with the motors that had the two main bearings. Not really interested in the older ones with the bronze bushing. Not a good design...
Hello. Have you checked that your fly cutter doesn't have the collar you hold to make it automatically feed outward? Plunging will not actually give you a flat face as the cutter has relief and will cut deeper on the outside
Hello. I do not have one of those fancy fly cutters that can automatically feed outward. Yes, the surface might not be perfectly flat, but I have some excellent Loctite gasket cement. Everything is going to be just fine..
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I get a big kick out of the fact that Paul expresses surprise upon achieving perfect fitment of a part which he scrupulously planned and artistically executed several machining processes.
Thanks Tony.
@@gpw203 Because it's in engineering where the technologies [besides arguably semi-conductors, although that has its own engineering] are executed. Engineering is such an under appreciated practice by almost everyone. When I was a teenager I totally dismissed engineering, because people who worked with their hands did the daily stuff, and I didn't want to do that. I ended up getting a BSc in Env Sce. But the older I got the more I appreciated making things with precision. I'm not an engineer, but I can set up and use machinery like manual lathes and capstans. I can stick and mig weld too, reasonably well. But I have to do it all in baby steps. A proper engineer can visualise the solution, work it out, and properly execute it in the correct manner. And there are loads of different engineers at all levels. To the average person it's modern magic. Agreed on the therapeutic, by the way.
The man says the intro like it's a question. Are you sure he's excited? "HI? I'm Paul Brody?"
Hi Paul. I also did this modification, on my cub, but I put a bearing in, as well as a seal, for extra support for shaft. The plate needed an extra top-hat section to fit both.
Hi Dave, maybe an extra bearing is needed, depending on how hard you are abusing your motor. I will test what I have done and generate feedback...
Is it my friend Patrik , the Ghost-rider , who now has the 192 mph record? He has got far more than ONE screw loose !!
I have a friend, Tom Mellor, and he has 12 records at Bonneville. He rides a 1969 Triumph 750/1000 triple. He pulled the bike on a trailer behind his 1970(?) Rolls Royce...
Ok, I'll be that guy. It's one serration on the chuck jaws. It goes faster if you use two parallels simultaneously. No fiddling required.
Many of us have all the tools Paul has, but he gets wayyyy more done because of his know-how. We're seeing a lifetime of learning and experience on display twice weekly. Thanks, Paul, for the motivation.
Thanks Richard. A serration could be the right word! I really do enjoy sharing my knowledge.
It goes a lot faster if you use soft jaws and machine them to hold the disc.
The BSA Starfire I owned had a similar plate behind the clutch as standard (BSA Starfire was last C15). I remember assembling it without the plate. When I changed main bearings. When they failed they stripped the pinion timing cog. New main bearings were a BSA upgrade to ball bearing race one side and a special and expensive barrel roller race the other side. 50+ years ago now!
It was fun to hear you’re in touch with Steve Burns. I used to follow some of his projects with Performance Bikes magazine in the 80s/90s.
Yes, Steve has been very helpful describing Cub Mods.
Hi Paul and Mitch, firstly I would like to thank you for all the amazing content being made, I am enjoying it very very much.
I would just like to say that I especially like some anecdotes from the past, maybe even an episode where you take us around your shop and Paul briefly goes through his work so far.
Thank you and be well, Mark
Thanks Mark. Yes, we are always thinking about content, so will keep your comments in mind.
I want to see Mitch haha it reminds me of Home Improvement when we never saw the neighbours face hahaha.
@@nathanchalecki4842 Mitch - the Man of Mystery.
Steve Burns is a legend! Literally!! Funny how he gets introduced as a fellow Cub owner..... !
Steve Burns has been very helpful to me. He has restored four Cubs, and make custom parts for them.
Great videos! Steve burns was a legendary bike builder and mechanic! Good to hear he is still around!
Thanks. Steve is a great guy :)
Paul - really enjoy that you share the journeys you go on - and the thoughtfulness involved with achieving a desired end result.
Thank you.
I'm starting to get stuck into a rebuild/refurbish of a '69 Bultaco Mk2 Campera bike.
(175cc / 2 stroke / 5-speed / electronic ignition bike)
Was my father's - tucked into a barn due to magnito failure shortly before my birth in 1973.
Watching your work gives me a lot of inspiration.
One of the dynamics of a desired end-result on this enduro Bultaco build - is for a left/right shift/brake swap.
(my '96 900ss/sp, and my '72 cb350K3 bike are both brake on right - with GP shift on left)
.. so to get the Spanish left/right foot controls swapped is going to take proper-engineered cross-shafts.. two of them.. for zero slop and well-leveraged mechanical action.
Your level of obsessiveness is congruent with my own..
Cheers from WI !
Jason, thanks for watching and commenting. I did the shifting conversion on my Vincent. I put a lot of thought into it, and the parts were well made. It added slop and flex in the shaft, no matter how fussy I was. It will never shift as crisply as no linkage. I just learned how to ride and race with the shifting on the right, upside down too.
@@paulbrodie Oy.. ouch.. and I get it.. engineering-wise, the transfer points are too many.
Once in youth, I swapped a cbr600f2 bike to GP shift (just flipped the linkage) - and after getting accustomed to it - it was like the way [god?] intended. It was for me.
A '94 900ss/sp bike is in my stable - and one of favorite parts about that bike was pulling off all the linkage for a "reverse" pattern (down for up), one piece aluminum unit which mounts straight off the cog. Nirvana. Zero slop.
Other bike in stable is a '72 cb350k4 bike. ~14 years ownership .. etc.. anyway also flipped linkage on it to GP pattern.
Yes. Yes I can flip/accommodate as needed - but there's always that time when you mistakenly brake on - or go to shift on - the wrong peg..
For the bikes I have and love and maintain - and in my age - I just want their shifting/braking to be all congruent. Build them all for myself kind of deal.. and in any event that takes much thought and .. conviction ..
Cheers Mate
My 71 Bonneville engine has a removeable panel to access the drive sprocket much like what your doing here Mr. Brodie. I guess they had savings in mind when they designed the cubs, nice modification whoever replaces the sprocket in the future will be very happy you spent the time to do this "Engine Mod" Thanks for sharing! Good work on the editing Mitch!
Thanks Rick.
Thank you two for this channel, it’s perfect
William, thank you very much.
Incredibly fascinating to watch.
Thank you Thomas.
One of our old machinist used a technique called pressure turning. So that plate wouldnt be chucked on the od. He would use the tailstock to center on the hole you drilled. He would them push that plate onto the front edge of the chuck teeth. Then you can turn the od concentric to the hole. No arbor required. Nice video paul as always.
Thanks for commenting.
Ah, a good day is a little better with an evening in paul and mitch's company. Lovely video and fabrication as always :)
Thank you.
Always interesting to hear you sorting out a solution in real time... Close enough.
We hardly ever do a Take 2. Pretty close to live. Unexpected things sometimes happen.
I wish I had the money/tools to do stuff like this. I don't know that I could bring myself to cut a hole in that old of an engine case but.. I've always wanted to reproduce old engines that no one makes and upgrade them. A perfect example would be the old Indian/Ace/Henderson 4 or the Crocker or Vincent Vtwins.. It'd be really cool to take those old engines that NO ONE makes copies of and not only remake them, but make them out of aluminum where they were mostly iron back in the day. Dropping the weight by 2/3'rd and improving some of the systems and upping compression would make those engines come alive.. plus they wouldn't be original so you could beat on them or modify them without worrying about potentially destroying an irreplaceable piece of motorcycle history.
Currently there's a 57 Tiger Cub for sale near me for $1000obo it's in really ROUGH shape and is definitely missing some parts and comes with some extras but I've wanted one since I was in my single digits. (I'm 37 now btw) I always wanted to learn to ride on one growing up. While I'm probably far too large for one now at 6'10 and 315lbs, I'd still love to save this one and work on it and be able to put around town on it and even let my nephew/nieces learn to ride on it if they wanted to. (unfortunately I don't have kids of my own) While it wouldn't go anywhere quickly, I'm sure it'd have enough torque to probably get me up to cruising around town speeds. (25mph) I think the hardest part would just be making the suspension strong enough to deal with my weight. I'd guess figuring out how to put Yamaha WR250 front fork set on it would probably be the best way to cope with my weight, combined with a speced out set of piggyback coilovers in the back, which would also allow you to upgrade to a front disc brake at the same time. The hard part of that would be finding out if they have the right shaft length/diameter and if you can get a bearing set that'll fit and if the shaft/trees set the fork angle correctly so you aren't messing with the rake. I guess the easiest upgrade would be to find a set of 500 forks and throw them on, not that even those are really meant to work with someone my weight.. at least the WR forks can be re-valved to cope with added weight. Hell, even John (lunmad Triumph.. RIP my friend) added extra springs in the form of valve springs into his forks on his 72 Bonnie to give him some extra ride quality and he wasn't very heavy at all. Looking at the pictures it might already have a set though as it has the rubber gaters on the forks. (if you were to run a 500 front fork, it wouldn't be hard to upgrade to the bigger drum brake as well.. we happen to already have a set of 19 inch wheels with the bigger drums on them in our garage.. While most people would say the 4.5-5 inch drums are enough on that light of a bike, remembering that I weigh more than the bike says to me it needs better brakes.)
Well, thanks for watching and commenting... The forks on my Cub are the same as the Heavyweight Triumph 500 forks, and I also added the 500 8" brake drum too, in case you haven't seen the latest of our Cub videos... I also have reproduced Excelsior V-twin motors. If you watch our Excelsior videos you will get a good sense of how that got accomplished...
@@paulbrodie Yeah I just discovered your videos last night. Your accent has been throwing me for a loop, you definitely don't sound like a typical Brit or Canadian. I just watched your "We're Back" video and heard about what you used to do and what you're going through. Cancer.. how that stuff is still allowed to exist, if only the world could stop trying to kill each other/arguing long enough to put our collective minds together and destroy the thing that's taken countless lives. Both my grandmothers (one before I was born) one grandpa, a couple great uncles, and various other family members have been taken by cancers.. in fact I might have thyroid cancer thanks to this 1.6cm nodule on my throat. -.-
If you ever get bored and want to see a couple short videos of my dad's bikes, I've got them on my other channel.. including a 1965 T120C. th-cam.com/play/PL6Gz_TRD0rk3HWVwz5Wgl0hHWPxJCxzp6.html
@@jaratt85 I was born in the UK and emigrated to Canada when I was nine...
It's going to be a well trick cub motor when you're done with it.Keep the vids coming.
Very nice Paul thought that big drill was a brave move with such a small purchase on the part. Lovin' it
Yes, I was very careful to feed very slowly, and did you see my other hand holding the chuck to stop any vibration? Thanks for watching.
After failing at pretty much everything in the garage today, I come here to see how it's supposed to be done 🙂
Some days I would like to forget as well, but you go back and try again. One step at a time.
Everyday is a school day. Great job.
Thanks for watching!
Great job Paul, Your Tiger Cub is just like my Triumph T120 now!
Love that modification I would love it if now you increased the exhaust port you do more tuning work
What a great idea. always Good to watch your self and Mitch achieving such high standards of work. Clean tidy surroundings, a pleasure to be part of the deal. Dave from Australia
David, thanks for watching and commenting.
Excellent modification. Great idea.
Sometimes a piece of wood under one of your clamps will damp out vibration.
Nice video. Keep up the good work!
Thanks very much :)
I didn’t know that the Cub didn’t have a sprocket access plate so this is a very worthwhile modification. I used to own a BSA C15, which did have one and it was essentially the same motor. I now have an iron barrelled Royal Enfield 350 Bullet which also has one. Even so it’s annoyingly complicated to have to dismantle the entire primary drive side just to change the sprocket. Officially speaking I think you you need four special tools and a very large socket spanner to remove everything just to get at it! I can’t help comparing it to a 1977 CZ Enduro 250 I owned where you could see the sprocket from the side of the bike and just two easily accessible hexagon headed screws held it in place. I’d think it was a five minute job to remove and refit it.
Edited: I just found a photo of the CZ. In fact to hold on the sprocket there was just a central hexagon nut locked by a simple tab washer. No need to dismantle anything else. The bike also had a dry multi plate clutch directly on the crankshaft and it could be kickstarted in gear.
It's a good Mod Paul, similar to the B group engines. Steve Burns, there's a blast from the past. He was more famous for huge Suzuki drag racing bikes than Tiger Cubs in the 1980s. He was based in the UK then and was regularly featured in 'Performance Bikes' magazine.
Best wishes, Dean at Retromeccanica, Oxfordshire, UK.
Another great vid, seems like IV watched four new ones from you this week.😉
Thanks. We make 2 videos per week.
The 350/500 & 650 Triumph motors all have a door there which seems a crime to not have on the Cub. Compared to Japanese and most modern bikes where the sprocket is under a simple cover, the old British bikes are a whipping to change sprockets on. You’re building quite a special motor, Paul! Your skills are inspiring.
Thank you bandavanza.
Hi Paul,
Somewhere in the dim darkness of my memory there is an image of a countershaft sprocket access hole that was relieved to fit a larger than usual sprocket on the shaft.
Notches were cut to allow the tips of the teeth to clear the opening, this did not affect the sealing of the seal carrier to the inner clutch case.
This was done to either a BSA A65 or a Series C black Shadow spec Vincent 1300 used in a racing sidecar.
Enjoying your adventures immensely , Take care.
Found that on Triumph twins
@@1924ab Ditto on the Triumph 650s.
@@1924ab Hi, My Triumph experiences are entirely pre unit related and we weren't using a triumph drive train.
Thank you for the info.
Yes, that could work to fit the 19T. Thanks.
@Alfred Wedmore You are correct, although I vaguely recall that it was setup with a bastardised Norton clutch and grr box lashed to the engine.
This was 50+ years ago and I was more taken with the engine and the mini wheel frame than anything else and really wanted a ride on it as passenger.
Thank you.
Interesting. I love speed, hahhaaha. Thanks, Thailand Paul 1920 Harley board track.
I have a Junak M10 1963 polish motorcycle, which is build in a very similar way to the Cub and other Triumphs. It actually has the feature which you are making in this video. Chaninging front sprocket is still painfull because you have to dismantle the whole clutch.
Were the Polish copying the British?
@@paulbrodie Yes, very much. With some local flavores added. You would be very familiar with Junak M10 despite you probably have never seen it. Junak M10 has a bit of cult around it. It was purely (well, inspired a "bit" by british constructions) polish bike, 4 stroke and kind of luxury motorcycle behind iron curtain. Slightly flamboyant in comparison of super simple and crude 2 strokes which dominated socialists countries in the 50/60.
@@krzysztofdrobinski162 Very interesting, thank you.
@@paulbrodie You are very welcome. I thank you for the great content and countless "nice fits". If you are interested in Junak m10 let me know - I can translate something for you - I believe there's not much info available in English.
Another Great show, in particular I like your belief, belief that you are going to do more than 15 thousand miles which is the distance a well oiled chain and sprocket last. I Believe. :-)
Thank you Mike. I want to get the gearing right. I have asked several Cub enthusiasts about gearing, and not one had an answer, probably because they don't ride much at all.
Paul, your videos are so great to watch and so inspiring. Wednesday and Saturdays just got better. Thanks!
Thank you.
Nice to spend time with you guys, as usual
Thanks Stu, we appreciate it!
that record has been beaten a few times since the 90's currently at 213mph. insane.
Great video looking forward to seeing the follow on. Thanks Paul
Hi paul: if you reference diamond chain or machinery handbook. They say do not use a even numbered tooth drive sprocket. Because of wear. I checked several manufacturers honda KTM. they use uneven tooth drive sprockets. Also if you have a choice between a light chain and a heavy one in the same size chain use the light one. It's easier on the sprockets.
Love you mods and planning you do. Very inspirational
Thank you John. I don't believe this will be a high mileage machine. I just want to get the gearing right. You are probably correct about an even numbered tooth sprocket..
A Cub expert, here in UK, used to fit sprocket windows into motors which were assembled and fitted into bikes. Seem to remember him boring the hole with a hole saw and a brace and bit (hand drill type of thing), cant remember any of the rest, but they used to work fine.............
I wonder how he got the oil seal to locate accurately? Maybe there was no oil in the primary drive?!
Nice Work Paul! It will be way more easier than splitting the case when changing the sprocket, trial guys like that!
Very convenient mod! I always thought it was impractical, having to remove the primary case to change sprockets on my motorcycles. And with the unit-motors it's even worse.
Thanks Andreas.
Hi Paul…. Fantastic workmanship & video (Mitch) as usual 👍 I was on the edge of my seat when you were boring that hole in the casing 😤😤😤😜…. Loved the witness mark story …. every days a school day 👍….. I see that your tolerance’s are tight, Will the gaskets push the oil seal further off the brass bush when you do the final assembly, Is this something you also have to allow for ?
Thank you. I'm not using a gasket. I have Loctite gasket sealer and it is great.
Another excellent video! Two steps forward and one step back, but always progressing. I like your "T" lathe hammer...lol. What would one do without a bandsaw, lathe and a vise. Can't wait to see what you do next to make it fit perfectly!
Thank you William. The plate has been redesigned.
Another intresting video to watch. Nice job Mr. Brodie!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks.
Steve burns that’s a blast from the past he built some of the best specials in the most notably spondon framed turbo charged Suzukis he had a massive accident and one of the reasons he moved to the Southern Hemisphere a man after your own heart he had a really excellent eye for what was good and what fitted.
I like Steve; he's been very helpful.
My borther did this mod , and also made a primary chain adjuster
Excellent... it is fun working on these little motors!
Hey Paul, An alternate technique for truing wobbly parts in the lathe: a/Place part in chuck, b/run late in reverse, c/bring cutting tool up to part and touch work, d/due to the rake on the tool the part will centre itself and run true with minimal or no marking. e/tighten chuck and check trueness. f/ continue with operation. IMHO this has always worked for me on small and larger diameter work. As always good stuff T
That could work, the tool would be used in a way it was not really designed to be used. I won't tell.
Thanks guys. Another great video!!
Thank you G Man!
I’ve just found your channel is this southern BC? Very neat stuff!
Langley, BC. Thank you.
@@paulbrodie how cool! I’m from Vancouver myself, Ride on!
Our metalwork teacher, a good guy, talked about witness marks right before explaining our final class was to be sitting quietly in the 100 Mile House provincial courtroom. The coincidence was intentional as our shop teacher was also our escort. The court soap opera was strange where everyone was known by someone and a few were known by everyone. Stolen snowmobiles was the case and everyone knew where they were except the people in suits trying to find out where they were. Funny how some small town days stick with you.
My brodie's have a few witness marks from occasions when witnesses accidentally came in handy.
You are amazing to watch and you explain things well. I hope you do a girder Velocette MAC next!
Great suggestion. Are you giving me one?
@@paulbrodie I think I have an extra under my couch cushions.
Very nice......Thanks for sharing.
Thank you too.
As always, thanks Paul & Mitch. Wow.... Steve Burns. There's a name I haven't heard in ages. His Spondon Monster was *very* influential on my thinking about bikes at the time. Although, it must not have been **that** influential b/c I haven't built a turbo bike (yet, but there's still time.) It's wild that a guy who made a name by riding 250+ hp bikes is into Cubs. My, how the times change, and us along with it.
Thanks Alan. Yes, Steve has been very helpful :)
A skateboard bearing on a brodie custom alignment thingy might true parts in a chuck rather nicely.
Dear Mr Brodie, since we are talking mods and sprockets here. I'd like to address your expertise a simple question. Is it possible or rather advisable to drill a stock motorcycle rear sprocket`s screw hole larger? I guess they come heat treated and surface hardened
I think sprockets (steel) are made of a good steel, but I doubt that they are heat treated and surface hardened. I did drill out my Cub rear sprocket to use a slightly larger (and non-standard) bolt, and it was no problem... Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie thank you very much for your kind reply
Don't be surprized Paul , you do know what you're doing after all .
Sometimes I feel like I know what I'm doing.
Hi Paul & Mitch, Find myself looking forward to each video. You two never let me down, either. Love to see how each of your mods brings functionality to the part you're improving at the moment. Wondering if @OMAD's Dad's notching suggestion would allow you to include 19 tooth sprocket as a possibility... what are your thoughts?
Thanks Tom. Yes, notching could work..
Awesome mod as usual!
Thanks again!
you can always see a well used milling machine, when there are nibbles in his clamps, LOL.
Sorry Mitch and Paul, that’s an Engineer’s hacksaw!
Interesting mod. I wonder if the cover you made could sit on the outside instead of inside - it would sit lower, there would be more room and no interference with the clutch.
The cover does sit on the outside. If we are talking the same language.
Hi Paul, as usual, great episode. Steve Burns was quite a guy here (UK) in the late 80s and early 90s, his bikes were always featured in Performance Bikes magazine, his one creation was a Turbo GSX1100 in a Spondon chassis, It was given the name "Monster", quite a bike indeed, there are a few videos on youtube of him with the Monster, I met him at the TT back then, he was at Ramsay sprint on the Spondon, a very fast bike indeed, I often wondered where he went, he actually was remembered in one of the UK bike mags a few months ago when they ran an article on Spondon engineering. watch this for Steve at Ramsay sprint th-cam.com/video/4mlyYsbHV3E/w-d-xo.html
Steve totalled the Spondon at a wheelie demo shortly after getting the record. Now he's in Australia.
Clever modification..
Fascinating. Did later Cubs have the access door from stock? BSAs I worked in had access but don't recall off hand if all the BSA singles had one. They sure were cutting corners to keep the cost down on those old Cubs - must've been a carry over from the 150cc Terrier origins.
I don't believe there was ever an access door. This was a fun mod. Thanks for watching.
@@paulbrodie the last cubs supplied to the French army had the access door from the factory
@@philholey3958 So interesting that the British did it for the French!
Isn't it funny, how when we got out of high school, we didn't think of ourselves as kids anymore. A thicker piece would allow the step and the seal to go deeper.
Yes, I think I have to remake the plate out of 3/8".
GREAT !!!
Paul, I used to use aluminum beer cans as shims. You need a horizontal shaper.
First I need a better lathe, then a tool and cutter grinder :)
@@paulbrodie Paul, seems to me that you already do very well with what you have!
@@wheater5 Yes, I'm not complaining but I can dream...
Nice work, again, but I think you should have done the hole for the oil seal to the other side of the plate.
You are correct. I was following the drawing, and now I am re-making the plate.
Paul, I think BSC thread's are 60 degrees, and BSW are 55 degrees, I could be wrong though. Nice mod though, BSA did it on a lot of there bikes, so you only had to take the clutch out to change the sprocket. Best of luck with it.
You are not wrong at all. BSC = 60 degrees, BSW (and BSF) = 55 degrees. (And I noticed that you have a video on a WD B40, which happens to be just my thing...)
Can you believe someone gets this man for a neighbor?
My neighbours aren't into motorcycles like I am...
@@paulbrodie How unfortunate for them Mr. Brodie!
@@djokicmetamora Hard to find good neighbours..
@@paulbrodie I bribe mine with making them pizza.
You always keep it interesring
Thank you Brad. Mitch and I are both still learning..
Sickkkk
Exactly.
If you want to beat that wheelie record on your Cub I suggest that you go with the 19 tooth front sprocket!
I'm trying to have realistic plans these days.
BSC has a 60 degree included angle. 55 degree would be a Whitworth form.
nice i like it
Thank you Bill.
Maestro
Excellent mod, very surprised triumph didn't do this anyway, as they did on the twins. I bet you have a boring and facing head somewhere?
I have a boring head. I do not have a facing head. Yet.
👍👍
That design is ridiculous! Changing sprockets for gearing is something that many owners want to do from time to time, not to mention replacing sprockets when they wear out. It's hard to imagine what was gained by Triumph in carrying that design through to production.
Cost, most people wouldn't need to go near the drive sprocket if a change of gearing is required the rear can be changed but as you say when it's worn out it's an engine split.
Difference here is Paul intends to use it for trials (I made a mistake here , this is complete hogwash) so convenient (still have to remove the clutch) drive gear changes are more important.
@@pbysome I never said I am building a trials bike, and I am not. Low exhaust, big carb, no air filter do not make a trials bike!
Triumph was saving money! It did not always make sense in the long run.
@@paulbrodie true sorry I misinterpreted that one, the jack under the frame loop threw me I didn't consider the low exhaust
And you didn't say it was for trials.
Someone else commented on your manifold vid about it being a trials plodder which kind of backed up my misinformed delusions.
@@pbysome It's very hard not to make assumptions. I catch myself doing it and I am almost always wrong. Still learning after all these years!
Wow. For many episodes of this Cub project, I've teased Paul about the horrid engineering of the bike. Now he is fixing the worst of the many worst parts: the need to pull the engine and split the cases just to change the counter shaft gear. Its for sure going to be the world's greatest Cub when he's done.
Thanks Pat. I am making improvements but it will still not be a perfect motorcycle. I'm sure it will have its' quirks.
@@paulbrodie There is an obvious answer to the issue that a 19 tooth gear won't fit in your magic removable plate/hole: change the rear sprocket. I don't know what the primary and transmission gears are, but where are you really gonna need a 19th counter shaft gear anyway with the 15 or so HP that the Cub will have.
@@PatFarrellKTM I already have a very small rear sprocket. We'll see how it all works..
Paul- I think you will need to drill and tap holes in each CS sprocket to use a puller when swapping the CS in the future.
They don't fit that tight. It's a spline that allows easy fit and removal.
@@whalesong999 My thinking was just to get centered purchase to clear the case hole. Clearance is tight there.
@@chasejiannalone8763 Got it. Maybe a device with prongs to fit in a few of the roller valleys between the teeth would suffice. Sprockets are super hard for drilling and tapping.
@@whalesong999 You are correct!
Nice audio on this one.
Thanks, I’ve been tweaking the audio over the past couple of videos to improve it. Nice to see someone has noticed!
@@mitchellnurseproductions I noticed too Mitch!
@@paulbrodie aw, thanks Paul🍻
Could you not put the plate and oil seal from a 650 triumph so you can change the sprocket ⚙️??
I don't know.. I have never owned a 650 Triumph, have never worked on one either...
👍👌👏superb
Cheers Chris
Thanks Chris 👍
Hi Mitch and Paul.
I am not a machinist or an engineer, but a couple of questions.
You use a plumber’s hacksaw not an ‘s hacksaw…so does Allen Millard… and you both accomplish great things. I was taught that a hacksaw is just a very narrow file and should be used a such, one hand to guide on the handle and one on the other end to pull through the work piece.
Have I been laboring under an apprehension all these years?
And… you don’t part off in the lathe. Was my old metal work teacher, late of Saunders Roe on the Isle of Wight barking up the wrong tree?
And if so, why?
I have ever heard of a hacksaw referred to as a Plumber's Hacksaw. I don't think of a hacksaw as a narrow file; it is a Hacksaw. Today we shot a video and I parted off a bronze bushing in my lathe. I do part off, just not excessively.
noice
I think the English tired making hammers once…..
But they couldn’t figure out how to make them leak oil 😂😂
Hey Paul, could you bore out the hole for the seal from the other side (sprocket side) of the plate? Would this bring the seal into contact with bushing.
Enjoyable video, as always
Thanks Barry. Yes, the plate has been re-designed and machined from thicker plate.
14:41 Maybe my favorite so far, bonus 14:45
Is that where my world briefly fell apart?
Hi Paul
I noticed your 3 jaw chuck seems to run very true. Did you grind the jaws yourself? Perhaps you could say a few words about that the next time you turn something on the lathe.
Thanks
Glenn
Glenn, I have done nothing with the jaws. That's how it came about 20 years ago. Made in Poland.
Hi Paul /Mitch reading your history , as a 9 old living in Southampton , couldn't help but wonder if you got your inspiration looking into the shop window of Sid Lawton M/cs . Prominent tuner of the Aermacchi in his day .Woodford St. if I recall correctly .
My father never took me to the motorcycle shops, but we did watch a Steeplechase somewhere in Southampton in the spring of '64, and that made a big impression on me!
Could you do a drill sharpening video please? Many thanks
When I get my Brown and Sharp tool and cutter grinder!
Just ,Iike
the C15
Would you share the drawing that you're working from please Paul ?
Email me and I will send. However, I have completely changed the design because the drawing did not fit my motor...
what about the thickness of the inner case gasket during your measurements and machinig???
You mean the gasket between the two crankcase halves? I am not planning on using one.
@@paulbrodie yes between the two halves, ok thats awesome Paul, Ive used solely shellac in the past and that worked perfect also...always enjoy watching your engineering craftmanship, simply the BEST!
@@zenpro8164 Thank you zen pro. I use a Loctite sealer that works very well.
You would be so good at using old engines and fitting electric motors in them so the transmission components can still be used.... I'd love to see a collaborative build w/ you and another TH-camr that does the gas to electric conversions, like the guys doing Honda Cub conversions. Using a complete bike but they gut the motors and put the electric drive components inside the block and the tanks are used to hold the battery pack... Would that be something you would be interested in doing¿?
Well, me and electrics don't get along. Our history is not good. I like electric vehicles, but it would be very hard for me to get enthusiastic about a project of this kind.
@@paulbrodie - I'd love to do something like this w/ you but I'm a nobody, but I'd find a good bike that would be an easy conversion then send you the motor so you can empty it out and add some mounting points for the electric motor and gears then I'd do the electric work and final construction myself... I know you'd be able to come up w/ some very cool ideas .
Kihi...witness mark......
How about making a new sprocket plate, and installing the seal from the sprocket side. You wouldn't need to make the mounting flange so thin.
How about that? The new sprocket plate has been re-designed and the sea; is on the other side. Thanks for watching.
Is there a fix for the crank oil feed on the right case half? That's what killed my old cub many years ago. Crank was a titch worn, and the bushing(s) in the case as well also. There just wasn't a fix back in the day, and neither were cranks. About 5 years later, there was a shop in the UK that started producing and selling right crank parts. My poor cub. It was so fun while it lasted : (
I would only bother with the motors that had the two main bearings. Not really interested in the older ones with the bronze bushing. Not a good design...
Hello. Have you checked that your fly cutter doesn't have the collar you hold to make it automatically feed outward? Plunging will not actually give you a flat face as the cutter has relief and will cut deeper on the outside
Hello. I do not have one of those fancy fly cutters that can automatically feed outward. Yes, the surface might not be perfectly flat, but I have some excellent Loctite gasket cement. Everything is going to be just fine..
@@paulbrodie yours just looked identical to one I used to use! Nice work