@@paulbrodie never doubted it for a moment! We saw a hand reach out to help hold something many videos ago - and for a brief second the "4th wall" was broken! 😂
Copper work hardens and can break due to vibration, I personally would use what we call "Bundy Tube" the copper plated Steel they use for both hard brake lines and Oil and Fuel lines and it is the only stuff legal for both Brake and Fuel appliocations, I guess they know what they are talking about. Below a certain level of flexing Steel will never fatigue fracture unlike both Copper and Aluminium which no matter how minute the flexing will always eventually fail. There are some Alloys these days that are pretty amazing for different applications such as "Fortel Plate" for making Connecting Rods, I used to do the Close and Hone on such Conrods in a Sunnen for an Aussie Top Fuel Drag racer called Stan Sainty who used to build his own engines from Billet, These rods made from Fortel Plate once that had been run and taken an initial set never changed dimensions when checked afterwards just a minute change from the first full power runs. Definately a better option than Original Triumph etc Alloy Connecting Rods with the steel caps, Real tough material and proven in a Top fueller for years now.
Stephen, thanks for watching and commenting. My little Cub will probably never get a huge amount of miles on it, so the oil lines will probably last my lifetime...
1/8" aluminium tig filler wire works great as a mock up substitute for laying out tubing, easy to bend and rebend. After you get it all figured out you can copy it with your good tubing.
Yes, but 1/8" would be a sloppy fit going into the brass boss held to the crankcase. I would have to make an insert to go over the 1/8" wire to make it fit the boss, which is an added step..
I have seen the reflection of Mike in a previous movie, handsome fellow he is. So he is not soo much of a mystery🙂I like copper and brass, they make good fittings. Well done
Another nice one. That excess solder could be neatened up by wiping it away with a bit of cloth while its molten, but you know that anyway, don’t you. Thanks Paul, and Mitch. Les in UK
Harris Stay Clean liquid flux and Staybrite 8 silver bearing solder. They sell it at HVAC suppliers. Also for silver brazing the Harris black paste flux. Works great on steel and stainless. I build show jobs for a major manufacturer of commercial refrigeration equipment.
paul, i 100% love your videos. as an old mountain biker that has had a brodie, and currently a tool maker apprentice i love all these little tips, tricks, insights. your skills on the bridgeport and lathe are something i hope i can achieve, but i know those skills came with the hours spent with them.........which, starting as late as i am, i'll never be able to match. regardless, thank you for sharing, and thank you mitch for your work too. without your skills, i'd never see paul do his thing,
I love it that you always say solder and not “sodder” which is wrong wrong wrong. Your pronunciation made me think, look up its correct pronunciation and made me a convert. Thanks for making me think and watch exactly how you do things so that I can continually improve myself.
I look at you as a teacher more than an entertainer…although your teaching is entertaining as well as informative on processes that once watched are now appreciated. Hail the algorithm.
I like those curly copper tube fuel lines, always look like a proper vintage bike with them. I’m always amazed to discover Triumph motorcycles, and Cubs in particular getting so far away from England. I guess it really was “ export or die “ for us brits in the 50’s and 60’s
I have a 1962 Triumph T100 SC. I replaced the front brake with a cub front brake and a 21 inch front rim. It’s set up in ISDT trim. Street Legal. Cub front brake works fine with a longer actuation lever and Magura levers. Much lighter set up for off road work.
Paul, 2 days ago the algorithm suggested your aeromacci teardown vid. By the 5th minute you earned a new sub. Loving your presentation, production, and delivery!
Great work as always Paul, I was taught to touch the solder to the opposite side from the heat because it will flow to the heat covering the whole fluxed area. Probable more important with larger diameter tubing.
Agree 100%, Paul -18 days is not bad, not bad at all... Then again, that nice Milyard fella has that mystery 'phone. Whoever is on the other end is a psychic and has already had the part on order for ...18 days...
Another fantastic installment of the Tiger Cub! I’ve never been particularly good at bending copper tubing but I’m encouraged by the tips you’ve shared. Good stuff! I like the update brake switch and brake return spring better than the over-wide version. The updates are super streamlined. Also, Autosol for the win! Love that stuff. It’ll restore the shine to most aluminum pieces.
When you measured the Cub's brake diameter the memories came flooding back. One developed traffic avoidance technology [steering out of the way] rather than depending on that brake to stop well - and I had mine really well set up too. Still, it was good for off-road. My first bike after the Cub was a 100mph Honda 250 K3 with a big TLS front brake as standard fit. It wasn't set up properly, so I did that. I remember it felt like I was going to fly over the bars, the first time I used that beast in anger. Boy, did that thing pull up. Nice video. 👍🖖 EDIT: Tbf, when you do anything with the Cub it stokes loads of memories. Mostly good ones.
Great work Paul & Mitch. For future reference, the refrigeration and air con industry use the small sized diameter copper pipes, usually measured in imperial.
when i replace brake shues i get modern materials black if i remember the difference is amazing but they squeale when using it acts like a horn the cud brakes where quite good for the day if set up correctly bsa bantam used the same brake keep up the good work uk citizen
Paul great work on the oil lines but I have to agree with the comment about the rocker feed oil line, Triumph used a small diameter for a reason, I think oil in the rockers has to drain down by gravity to the sump before being picked up be the pump. One other observation is to have a short length of clear tube in the rocker feed so you can easily see that oil is circulating correctly.
Thanks Graham. I don't think the larger rocker feed line will deliver more oil than a smaller line, because the pressure will be the same. Anyway, I will use the bike and if there is a problem, it will get fixed.
I was probably 8 or 9 when my father showed me the 'correct' way to fit a blade in a Junior hacksaw. Always fit it so you cut on the 'pull' stroke and not the 'push' stroke, gives more control if you need to 'push' a bit harder cutting ~ 5/16" silver steel (drill rod) and similar. Not sure about having a curve in rubber line, I've seen them kink after a while due to heat from oil As for oversize rear brake, never been a fan of 'too much' rear brake even on MX and trials bikes. I only really use rear to 'steady' bike and not for stopping. Was getting around 4,000 miles from dual disk set up on front of my 1977 Honda CB550 but can't remember when I changed rear shoes (maybe around 70~80,000 milers)
Peter, yours is the second comment on a bigger rear brake! I have no idea where that came from. I am not changing the rear brake. That 8" SLS hub is for the front. It will be perfect on the Cub.
Paul, it looks great. I also like to mock up more involved bending using 1/8 wire as a general guide. Funny that as I get into a full fuel , oil , or brake line project I tend to get into a bending mind zone lol.
The clean copper tube should look cool when it’s all put together. I like it when you can actually see some of those kinds of details on a bike. It’s not all just painted over and mono tone. The progress is looking great
I just need to change my term "good enough" to "It doesn't matter" to up my fussy builder quotient ; > ). Today's project will proceed with more than a few "it doesn't matter" I'm sure. I'm less sure if it will improve my finished project. Thanks for another interesting, useful and very well done video, it helps.
Ah well you know what they say about assumption being the mother, well I ignored the voice in my head saying is there enough clearance and ASSUMED you had checked. On that note will the larger rear brake throw the braking response out of kilter.?
Paul I love the bicycle and motorcycle combo as I am the same way with a passion for both. Keep doing what you are doing as I love the content. Don't forget that the suspension and brake is going to move up and down here. I worry that the suspension travel is going to pull on that brake light switch with it so far away from the swing arm pivot. It might make the brake light actuate over a big bump off road but just riding around on the road might be okay. Otherwise the actuation needs to be closer to the swing arm pivot perhaps to prevent this or a spring that stretches a bit before it actuates might work best.
For soldering copper oil lines - 50/50 solder? Stay-Brite (a fair bit stronger - used this to solder the carb float back together on the F7 Kawasaki, back in the late Eighties.)
Thank you Paul and Mitch. Watching your video and knowing British technology as well as I do I'll bet the methods used in the factory weren't much different from what you did. BTW I would appreciate a little explanation of how the oiling system works, it is not obvious to me.
A felt wheel on a cordles drill and a bit of cherry red compound, will take the small scratches away. After that Autosol and you can see you and whats 100 feet behind you in the backing plate.
@@paulbrodieright after I wrote my coment, I thought: Maybe he didn't want a mirror finish. I love your videos, your channel is exact what I searched for.
I looked all the engineering reasons that 1/4” copper vs. 5mm copper are used in mechanical installations and one of the standard out reasons for these two close sizes has to do is radius. The 5mm due to its size achieves a tighter radius which I wasn’t aware of. Your installation uses soft copper it seems but would there ever be a reason to use hard drawn copper due to its better vibration performance or it not a “real world problem” in your situation? Thanks
I used the 5mm copper tubing because it fit the Aermacchi banjo fitting that feeds the rockers. It's also smaller than the 1/4" inlet and return lines. I don't see a reason to use hard drawn copper. Let's just keep it simple!
That Triumph brake hub will be a definite improvement over the original half width cub drum... But you definitely have the skill and expertise to convert the new 8 inch hub backing plate to TLS! Then I can see you drilling the side of the drum and backing plate for lightness.... like half a Ceriani or Fontana! How much heavier is the 8 inch drum assembly than OE Cub cub front brake assembly? Either way, I am sure what you produce will be a sculptural masterpiece in lightness and efficiency! Definitely coffee time soon...
Not Ferodo green on leading shoe.... I had Ferodo brown on the leading 1" edges with green backing it up on my Yamaha 160mm dia TLS on my '73 CB125S. It was on the advice of Mount Eden Motorcycle wrecker who I scavenged most of my parts (e.g. Yamaha TLS drum) from. In Auckland, we had a street just like the side of Royal Oak, south of Rumble St, in Burnaby. Even with engine and rear braking, the standard full width 110mm Dia front SLS was next to completely faded by halfway down the road.
Just a suggestion for sanding that might help with the visible scratches. We use a guideline in woodworking when sanding as far as grit progression, not going up more than 50% of the previous grit. For instance, of you sand with 80 grit, the next would be 80+40=120 grit. The next would be 120+ 60=180 git and so on. The reason that progression is significant is that any less than 50% (i.e.100 after 80) is there's not much point and any more, the higher grit has great difficulty removing the previous grit's scratches if it's more than 50% higher. That may be why your 120 grit scratches are showing after going to 320. You may have to go to 1000 before the Autosol. The good news (you probably already know this) is that it gets faster and faster after each grit. For what it's worth.
Thanks Ed, I will keep all that in mind. My engine has a lot of very fine scratches, but they're hard to notice from a short distance, like 3 feet. I don't want to build a perfect motorcycle, because I know from experience they usually don't get ridden.
I learnt something from this, I have always used a tube bender for this sort of job. Always difficult to work out where to start the bend. A former in the vice looks much better. One question Paul, why do you not part off in the lathe? Feel bad for asking, but it has been worrying me.
Parting off in the lathe is sometimes a fussy operation, and if it goes wrong, not pretty. Much less stress to use the bandsaw and then face the end. Make sense?
@@paulbrodie Not sure I agree, for two reasons. It interrupts the workflow, re-chucking etc, secondly I enjoy the drama, seriously, I only have a small lathe these days and don’t have a problem parting off. Perhaps I will make a short video on the subject. Everything else you do makes perfect sense.
COOL, a shot of the mysterious Mitch (by reflection). There was a vid on "Wheels through time" explaining an early bike used for cross country (Cannonball) where the front brake on the old bike had been replaced by a "twin leading shoe" hub from a Honda, because it's nice to have a front brake that actually works. I'm rebuilding some old Honda's (175 & 350 SL's) and I just checked the front hub, which is about 61/4 dia shoe but having both shoes stopping helps. The disadvantage of the Honda hub is the extra linkage for the other shoe. I was schooled by an old biker that you chop the bike, make it a hard tail, take the spring out of the foot clutch actuator so you have to hold the clutch down "like a real man" and then, you throw away the front brake because it's ugly. I asked how do you stop on a hill? He said the club riders just let their tires rest on the bumper of the behind car (because who's going to mess with a club rider?). Alternatively you could waste a couple of clutches learning how to hold in place. There was a mother & young son in traffic. A group of club riders on their loud bikes roar by. The young boy exclaims to his mother "I'm going to grow up and be a biker." To which his mother says "you have to decide which, you can't do both."
Deja vu for me. I've bent some brake lines in the past. Were the new lines a different size than than the old ones? I was thinking another option would be to use the old lines as templates for the new ones, unless the routing was going to be different. Copper lines look good on those older bikes.
Yes, that is one way to do it. But, for oil lines, it's probably not a good idea to fill them with sand. If you don't get all of it out, and a few grains get into the motor, That is a problem!
Great work on the Triumph! However my question is about the white commuter bicycle in the background. Did you build it? Do you still ride bicycles much? Personally I love both bicycles and motorcycles! But I ride bicycles much more nowadays. Like for the last 35 years.
Hi Paul, I was wondering if there was pressure in the lines. I made some coolant lines for a sports car a few years ago. I didn’t put any raised edges on the ends of the lines and on the way to the grid, one of the hoses came adrift. I would hate to see all your work fail if one of the oil lines came off. By the way, a very elegant solution for the brake switch bracket! Cheers Col.
Thanks Colin. There will be a little pressure from the oil pump, but not substantial. It will be interesting to see which parts of the Cub will require attention.
It's the same on the B40, 44 and 50, theirs very little pressure in there, just a press fit. By the way, Mitch is a hansom looking guy, saw him in the reflection of the hub cap!!
So stoked the 69er is back whole again! Fabulous work as always. Are you sure my Imron paint from 1999 is still good? How do I get the activator part of the paint? Keep it going!
Thanks Robert. I am not sure your 1999 Imron paint is still good. I ordered the 192S activator from the US, and had a friend of a friend bring it across the border for me.
Hi Paul. Say, can you tell me what the I.d. Of the oil fitting is for the rocker arms? Like where you made that 1/4 spacer. I can’t seem to find that spec for my 71 bonneville. Don’t want too much or, more importantly too little oil getting to the cyl. Head. Nothing is stock on mine. Aftermarket Harley oil tank.
Michael, not sure of your question. The banjo fitting (from an Aermacchi) that feeds the rockers, has an ID of 5mm. The copper tubing is 5mm OD with a 3mm ID.
@@paulbrodie so the 5mm at the banjo would be the smallest part of the line? Right now, I have a tee fitting that sends half the oil to the tank and the other half to the rocker shafts. It’s probably not correct.theoretically I could send all the oil from the pump to the rockers, and the banjo will regulate how much oil to the rockers.right? I hope I’m making sense?
@@michaelnelson9140 The whole rocker feed line is 5mm. If you need to regulate the oil flow, plumb in a main jet and holder. Then you can change the size of the main jet to get the feed you want. Simple!
Thanks. I get that. But based on what I described my set up was, with the tee. I should be fine then? Because the 5mm bore or hole in the rocker assy, will restrict oil flow. Triumph took a weird route in engineering their top end lube set up! This is how the motorcycle was plumbed when I got it. It all seems sort of primitive. Obviously I don’t want to starve the top end, but I don’t want to dump too much oil either. With the dry sump system.and potential oil burning, if the rocker assy was swimming in excess oil.I am just going to leave it as is.thanks once again! Keep those videos coming!😁
@@michaelnelson9140 No, you're not really making sense, sorry. The smallest part of the line is 3mm. That is the ID of the tubing. If you need to regulate oil flow, plumb in a fitting that holds a main jet, then you can change main jets to get the pricise amount of oil flow you want. Make sense?
Hello Paul and Mitch, greetings from Nebraska. Have you ever worked with Nickel Copper brake line alloy. Bends very easy and is nice stuff to work with . Cheers mate!
That screwdriver looks like an old automotive screwdriver used for checking spark - hold it up to the spark plug wire and it would glow. As far as excessive solder, years ago a plumbing contractor friend of mine came over to look at some copper sweated plumbing joints. He didn't know I had done them. When he saw them, he said, "Look what we got here... Roman Candles." I told him I did those, and said, "You need to wipe them off with a rag." Lesson learned.
Looks like someone could make a double disc brake to fit inside the original drum hub, to look almost stock, except for some cooling holes, a brake similar to the clutches , in a bike, or automatic transmission, layered disc and steels, but use rotors as pads, maybe use a spring washer to reduce friction when not braking, maybe this could be a new brake design for smaller vehicles, have rotors sliding on splines, with a double sided pad in the middle, and a 2piece caliper making a full circle, using spring washers, or tiny leaf springs to keep them separated for friction sake! 😜 Use a cover with inlet scoop holes, and outlet hole scoops to let heat out!! A brake pad that looks like a really thick motorcycle clutch, about 15-20, maybe 25mm thick for the double sided pad, and 12-15mm for a single sided pad, with rotors around 4-5mm thick, , and upwards of 120mm outer diameter, about 100mm in the center, with about 8 12mm pistons, on each side, should bake for easy braking! Alot of work to hand make!!
Good solution to the rear brake light switch mount. Would it have been better and somewhat easier to have made it out of a single piece of quarter-inch cold-rolled plate? That's just me talking from the peanut gallery. You're there doing the hands-on work, so it's still a good job. Thanks, Paul.
Thanks. There is always more than one way to do a project. When I started the switch I had no idea what the mount was going to look like. It's part of the fun!
You have well more fabrication experience than I do but, that little piece of "bent" rod you used in place of a spring might work better if you were to make a 360 degree loop (abut the diameter of a dime?) in the middle of its length. I feel the rod may eventually be stressed and let go. What do you think, could it work or might it be just a silly idea?
The nickel silver rod has quite a bit of strength for such a small diameter. The 360 degree loop could work, but would take quite a bit of force to stretch.
This is the most underrated motorcycle channel on TH-cam. Please never stop doing this.
OK, we will continue. Thank you.
01:00 Well, turns out Mitch DOES exist, 'cos we see him in the hubcap! 😂
finally we saw mitch! he does exist! haha
Well spotted Keith
Keith, I sense you were a Doubter.
@@paulbrodie never doubted it for a moment! We saw a hand reach out to help hold something many videos ago - and for a brief second the "4th wall" was broken! 😂
A man of detail. A creature of habit.
I think you might be referring to me! 😉
Paul, you are a marvel to watch. Kudos
Thanks Dario. Nice compliment!
Copper work hardens and can break due to vibration, I personally would use what we call "Bundy Tube" the copper plated Steel they use for both hard brake lines and Oil and Fuel lines and it is the only stuff legal for both Brake and Fuel appliocations, I guess they know what they are talking about.
Below a certain level of flexing Steel will never fatigue fracture unlike both Copper and Aluminium which no matter how minute the flexing will always eventually fail.
There are some Alloys these days that are pretty amazing for different applications such as "Fortel Plate" for making Connecting Rods, I used to do the Close and Hone on such Conrods in a Sunnen for an Aussie Top Fuel Drag racer called Stan Sainty who used to build his own engines from Billet, These rods made from Fortel Plate once that had been run and taken an initial set never changed dimensions when checked afterwards just a minute change from the first full power runs.
Definately a better option than Original Triumph etc Alloy Connecting Rods with the steel caps, Real tough material and proven in a Top fueller for years now.
Stephen, thanks for watching and commenting. My little Cub will probably never get a huge amount of miles on it, so the oil lines will probably last my lifetime...
1/8" aluminium tig filler wire works great as a mock up substitute for laying out tubing, easy to bend and rebend. After you get it all figured out you can copy it with your good tubing.
Yes, but 1/8" would be a sloppy fit going into the brass boss held to the crankcase. I would have to make an insert to go over the 1/8" wire to make it fit the boss, which is an added step..
@@paulbrodie or you could wrap it in tape...
Hi Pau, Chris here from UK. Your shows are better than going to College to learn. Well done
Thank you Chris.
Much better with new oil lines. Thanks guys.
Interesting, well done .
Thanks Casey!
Holy moly Mitch spotting at 1:01 !
another great job, thanks Paul and Mitch :)
Good.. job.. sir
Thank you Vijay 😉
I have seen the reflection of Mike in a previous movie, handsome fellow he is. So he is not soo much of a mystery🙂I like copper and brass, they make good fittings. Well done
International man of mystery 👍👍😎👍👍
Yes, indeed.
Another nice one. That excess solder could be neatened up by wiping it away with a bit of cloth while its molten, but you know that anyway, don’t you. Thanks Paul, and Mitch. Les in UK
Fabulous, many thanks...don't forget you promised us a drill sharpening video...outstanding, thank you
Thanks Richard. Have not forgotten. I am prepping.
Great job.
Thanks John B.
Ohhh i also did this today with my BSA C10 LSR project.
Hey Paul & Mitch, very nice job on the oil lines! Looking forward to final assembly and RIDING IT!!!
Thank you Tom!
You sure are a neat guy! These bikes are cool. Glad I found your channel today I've been watching all kinds of your stuff
Thank you Mining Simple!
Harris Stay Clean liquid flux and Staybrite 8 silver bearing solder. They sell it at HVAC suppliers. Also for silver brazing the Harris black paste flux. Works great on steel and stainless. I build show jobs for a major manufacturer of commercial refrigeration equipment.
I don't think we have HVAC suppliers up here in Canada. I have tried the black paste flux and didn't like it. Thanks for watching :)
paul, i 100% love your videos. as an old mountain biker that has had a brodie, and currently a tool maker apprentice i love all these little tips, tricks, insights.
your skills on the bridgeport and lathe are something i hope i can achieve, but i know those skills came with the hours spent with them.........which, starting as late as i am, i'll never be able to match.
regardless, thank you for sharing, and thank you mitch for your work too. without your skills, i'd never see paul do his thing,
Thank you Simon. Skills take a long time to hone and refine, but don't give up!
@@paulbrodie thank you sir. Hope you both enjoyed the coffees
I love it that you always say solder and not “sodder” which is wrong wrong wrong. Your pronunciation made me think, look up its correct pronunciation and made me a convert. Thanks for making me think and watch exactly how you do things so that I can continually improve myself.
Thank you Craig. Well, I was born and raised in England, so there was an emphasis on being "proper".
I look at you as a teacher more than an entertainer…although your teaching is entertaining as well as informative on processes that once watched are now appreciated. Hail the algorithm.
@@craighearn747 I'm just trying to share my knowledge. It seems like the right thing to do at this point in my life. Thanks for commenting!
I have been using autosol for the last 45 years for all sorts. From lapping to polishing. Good choice
Thanks Roger.
I like those curly copper tube fuel lines, always look like a proper vintage bike with them.
I’m always amazed to discover Triumph motorcycles, and Cubs in particular getting so far away from England.
I guess it really was “ export or die “ for us brits in the 50’s and 60’s
Triumph exported Cubs to a LOT of countries back in the sixties..
I so look forward to your videos! Thanks Paul and Mitch. :)
Thank you Pete :)
I have a 1962 Triumph T100 SC. I replaced the front brake with a cub front brake and a 21 inch front rim. It’s set up in ISDT trim. Street Legal. Cub front brake works fine with a longer actuation lever and Magura levers. Much lighter set up for off road work.
I will not be taking my Cub off-road. It is a street bike.
Paul, 2 days ago the algorithm suggested your aeromacci teardown vid. By the 5th minute you earned a new sub. Loving your presentation, production, and delivery!
Thank you very much!
hope you film making the Excelsior. Love your attitude and building skills.
We will do more Excelsior, I promise.
Paul Brodie's is a true master craftsman absolutely outstanding 💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎💎🤫✌️
Thank you Thomas.
@@paulbrodie u r welcome ☕
Great work as always Paul, I was taught to touch the solder to the opposite side from the heat because it will flow to the heat covering the whole fluxed area. Probable more important with larger diameter tubing.
Thanks for the info.
Agree 100%, Paul -18 days is not bad, not bad at all... Then again, that nice Milyard fella has that mystery 'phone. Whoever is on the other end is a psychic and has already had the part on order for ...18 days...
I have a phone like Allens', but it's not connected to anything.
@@paulbrodie LOL! Me,too. Several actually, tho the cables are still attached....
Mitch does really exist! 1:00
Although I never really doubted you guys. 😀👍
Mitch is Really, Really, Real.
Another fantastic installment of the Tiger Cub! I’ve never been particularly good at bending copper tubing but I’m encouraged by the tips you’ve shared. Good stuff! I like the update brake switch and brake return spring better than the over-wide version. The updates are super streamlined.
Also, Autosol for the win! Love that stuff. It’ll restore the shine to most aluminum pieces.
Thanks Andrew 👍
Caught a glimpse of Mitch!
No way!
Nice job, they look much better then just using fuel hose!
Thank you!
Paul, your "viewership" has some heavy hitters!
@@matthewsmith6486 Is that a good thing?
@@paulbrodie Well sure!
When you measured the Cub's brake diameter the memories came flooding back. One developed traffic avoidance technology [steering out of the way] rather than depending on that brake to stop well - and I had mine really well set up too. Still, it was good for off-road. My first bike after the Cub was a 100mph Honda 250 K3 with a big TLS front brake as standard fit. It wasn't set up properly, so I did that. I remember it felt like I was going to fly over the bars, the first time I used that beast in anger. Boy, did that thing pull up. Nice video. 👍🖖
EDIT: Tbf, when you do anything with the Cub it stokes loads of memories. Mostly good ones.
Thanks Andy! Yes, having a good front brake builds riding confidence for sure. Glad I am assisting with the Memory Reload.
;-) the very first time Mitch is on the mirror at screen. Thanks Paul, thanks Mitch!
Thank you!
perfection!!!
Thanks!!
Oil's well that ends well!!
Great work Paul & Mitch. For future reference, the refrigeration and air con industry use the small sized diameter copper pipes, usually measured in imperial.
Thanks Craig. I needed 5mm copper tubing, which is not Imperial. I could only find it on eBay, from China.
when i replace brake shues i get modern materials black if i remember the difference is amazing but they squeale when using it acts like a horn the cud brakes where quite good for the day if set up correctly bsa bantam used the same brake keep up the good work uk citizen
Paul great work on the oil lines but I have to agree with the comment about the rocker feed oil line, Triumph used a small diameter for a reason, I think oil in the rockers has to drain down by gravity to the sump before being picked up be the pump. One other observation is to have a short length of clear tube in the rocker feed so you can easily see that oil is circulating correctly.
I will get the brake shoes relined. I am hoping for green Ferodo linings if they are available..
Thanks Graham. I don't think the larger rocker feed line will deliver more oil than a smaller line, because the pressure will be the same. Anyway, I will use the bike and if there is a problem, it will get fixed.
I was probably 8 or 9 when my father showed me the 'correct' way to fit a blade in a
Junior hacksaw. Always fit it so you cut on the 'pull' stroke and not the 'push' stroke, gives more control if you need to 'push' a bit harder cutting ~ 5/16" silver steel (drill rod) and similar.
Not sure about having a curve in rubber line, I've seen them kink after a while due to heat from oil
As for oversize rear brake, never been a fan of 'too much' rear brake even on MX and trials bikes. I only really use rear to 'steady' bike and not for stopping. Was getting around 4,000 miles from dual disk set up on front of my 1977 Honda CB550 but can't remember when I changed rear shoes (maybe around 70~80,000 milers)
Peter, yours is the second comment on a bigger rear brake! I have no idea where that came from. I am not changing the rear brake. That 8" SLS hub is for the front. It will be perfect on the Cub.
1:01 we finally get to see Mitch!
Mitch does exist ! reflect with pink shirt in the shinny hub cap at 1'01 :D
Hello Mitch.
Siiiicccckkk
Exactly.
Hi Mitch! @1:01
I saw Mitch. He really does exist! 1:01 into the video, in the hub cap.
Good eye! Thanks for watching.
Paul, it looks great. I also like to mock up more involved bending using 1/8 wire as a general guide. Funny that as I get into a full fuel , oil , or brake line project I tend to get into a bending mind zone lol.
Thanks NV. I like the sound of a "bending mind zone"!
Hello from British Columbia Canada
Neighbor, 🇨🇦👋👍♥️😎
Hello neighbour. Have a great day!
a trick for "excessive" solder application if need be : the solder wick (acts as a one time use sponge to suck up solder when molten)
Thanks.
or copper braid
Nice trick with the cg reflection of Mitch in the hub cap. Ain't no fooling me, too quick you see. 😎
Yes, Mitch has been spotted. He is real for sure!
Mitch in the reflection in the hub cap - short but he’s there 😀
You just think he's short...
The clean copper tube should look cool when it’s all put together. I like it when you can actually see some of those kinds of details on a bike. It’s not all just painted over and mono tone.
The progress is looking great
Thank you Jeremy. The copper oil lines will get bead blasted and electroless nickel plated.
WOW just got a set of tubing benders , FREE !
James, you are one lucky guy!
I like the new mount even more than version 1.0
I just need to change my term "good enough" to "It doesn't matter" to up my fussy builder quotient ; > ). Today's project will proceed with more than a few "it doesn't matter" I'm sure. I'm less sure if it will improve my finished project. Thanks for another interesting, useful and very well done video, it helps.
Larry, thanks for watching and commenting.
1:00 Mitch!
"I just have to make a few more Excelsiors"...... easy - peasy......(@15:50)
Ah well you know what they say about assumption being the mother, well I ignored the voice in my head saying is there enough clearance and ASSUMED you had checked. On that note will the larger rear brake throw the braking response out of kilter.?
David, I bought a front wheel with a larger brake drum. The rear brake stays the same.
@@paulbrodie Oh well hearing things that were not said, sliding down that slippery slope fast, what ever next.
@@davidprocter3578 Don't worry, I just lost an entire day..
Paul I love the bicycle and motorcycle combo as I am the same way with a passion for both. Keep doing what you are doing as I love the content.
Don't forget that the suspension and brake is going to move up and down here. I worry that the suspension travel is going to pull on that brake light switch with it so far away from the swing arm pivot. It might make the brake light actuate over a big bump off road but just riding around on the road might be okay. Otherwise the actuation needs to be closer to the swing arm pivot perhaps to prevent this or a spring that stretches a bit before it actuates might work best.
Thanks Sean. My rear shocks are so stiff there is going to be very little rear wheel travel. But thanks for considering the movement.
FINALLY SAW MITCH!!!
Dang, that MItutoyo DRO is some sweet kit.
No way!!
For soldering copper oil lines - 50/50 solder? Stay-Brite (a fair bit stronger - used this to solder the carb float back together on the F7 Kawasaki, back in the late Eighties.)
I just used the solder that I had in my toolbox for years!
Thank you Paul and Mitch. Watching your video and knowing British technology as well as I do I'll bet the methods used in the factory weren't much different from what you did. BTW I would appreciate a little explanation of how the oiling system works, it is not obvious to me.
Thanks Don. Send me an email and I'll send you a photo of the oiling system. My email is somewhere in the description.
A felt wheel on a cordles drill and a bit of cherry red compound, will take the small scratches away. After that Autosol and you can see you and whats 100 feet behind you in the backing plate.
Thanks Jorg. I don't want it too shiny, that's not my style..
@@paulbrodieright after I wrote my coment, I thought: Maybe he didn't want a mirror finish.
I love your videos, your channel is exact what I searched for.
@@waldi2302 Thank you.
I looked all the engineering reasons that 1/4” copper vs. 5mm copper are used in mechanical installations and one of the standard out reasons for these two close sizes has to do is radius. The 5mm due to its size achieves a tighter radius which I wasn’t aware of. Your installation uses soft copper it seems but would there ever be a reason to use hard drawn copper due to its better vibration performance or it not a “real world problem” in your situation? Thanks
I used the 5mm copper tubing because it fit the Aermacchi banjo fitting that feeds the rockers. It's also smaller than the 1/4" inlet and return lines. I don't see a reason to use hard drawn copper. Let's just keep it simple!
Thank you, as always. Will you put any rubber stand-offs to keep the copper from vibrating against the engine cases?
Thank you Alan. If the oil lines vibrate I will insulate them somehow.
That Triumph brake hub will be a definite improvement over the original half width cub drum...
But you definitely have the skill and expertise to convert the new 8 inch hub backing plate to TLS!
Then I can see you drilling the side of the drum and backing plate for lightness.... like half a Ceriani or Fontana!
How much heavier is the 8 inch drum assembly than OE Cub cub front brake assembly?
Either way, I am sure what you produce will be a sculptural masterpiece in lightness and efficiency!
Definitely coffee time soon...
Thanks Thomas. I think I can be happy with the SLS. I'll get some Ferodo linings for sure.
Not Ferodo green on leading shoe....
I had Ferodo brown on the leading 1" edges with green backing it up on my Yamaha 160mm dia TLS on my '73 CB125S.
It was on the advice of Mount Eden Motorcycle wrecker who I scavenged most of my parts (e.g. Yamaha TLS drum) from.
In Auckland, we had a street just like the side of Royal Oak, south of Rumble St, in Burnaby. Even with engine and rear braking, the standard full width 110mm Dia front SLS was next to completely faded by halfway down the road.
@@thomaslawry5238 All drum brakes are leading shoe... SLS / TLS. Green linings have worked great on my race bikes.
Mitch is seen on the shiny hub cab from 1968 Triumph 100... not a mystery any more :D
Just a suggestion for sanding that might help with the visible scratches. We use a guideline in woodworking when sanding as far as grit progression, not going up more than 50% of the previous grit. For instance, of you sand with 80 grit, the next would be 80+40=120 grit. The next would be 120+ 60=180 git and so on. The reason that progression is significant is that any less than 50% (i.e.100 after 80) is there's not much point and any more, the higher grit has great difficulty removing the previous grit's scratches if it's more than 50% higher. That may be why your 120 grit scratches are showing after going to 320. You may have to go to 1000 before the Autosol. The good news (you probably already know this) is that it gets faster and faster after each grit. For what it's worth.
Thanks Ed, I will keep all that in mind. My engine has a lot of very fine scratches, but they're hard to notice from a short distance, like 3 feet. I don't want to build a perfect motorcycle, because I know from experience they usually don't get ridden.
I learnt something from this, I have always used a tube bender for this sort of job. Always difficult to work out where to start the bend. A former in the vice looks much better. One question Paul, why do you not part off in the lathe? Feel bad for asking, but it has been worrying me.
Parting off in the lathe is sometimes a fussy operation, and if it goes wrong, not pretty. Much less stress to use the bandsaw and then face the end. Make sense?
@@paulbrodie Not sure I agree, for two reasons. It interrupts the workflow, re-chucking etc, secondly I enjoy the drama, seriously, I only have a small lathe these days and don’t have a problem parting off. Perhaps I will make a short video on the subject. Everything else you do makes perfect sense.
@@simonbirt6121 Seems to me that breaking a parting tool really interrupts the workflow.
how are you doing Paul?
I am slowly healing. Thanks for asking 😉
@@paulbrodie good I'm glad to hear it, you are in our thoughts.
@@pbysome Thank you! 😉
COOL, a shot of the mysterious Mitch (by reflection). There was a vid on "Wheels through time" explaining an early bike used for cross country (Cannonball) where the front brake on the old bike had been replaced by a "twin leading shoe" hub from a Honda, because it's nice to have a front brake that actually works. I'm rebuilding some old Honda's (175 & 350 SL's) and I just checked the front hub, which is about 61/4 dia shoe but having both shoes stopping helps. The disadvantage of the Honda hub is the extra linkage for the other shoe.
I was schooled by an old biker that you chop the bike, make it a hard tail, take the spring out of the foot clutch actuator so you have to hold the clutch down "like a real man" and then, you throw away the front brake because it's ugly. I asked how do you stop on a hill? He said the club riders just let their tires rest on the bumper of the behind car (because who's going to mess with a club rider?). Alternatively you could waste a couple of clutches learning how to hold in place.
There was a mother & young son in traffic. A group of club riders on their loud bikes roar by. The young boy exclaims to his mother "I'm going to grow up and be a biker." To which his mother says "you have to decide which, you can't do both."
David, thanks for watching and commenting!
Deja vu for me. I've bent some brake lines in the past. Were the new lines a different size than than the old ones? I was thinking another option would be to use the old lines as templates for the new ones, unless the routing was going to be different. Copper lines look good on those older bikes.
The rocker feed line is a little larger, 5mm. They will get nickel plated, so the copper look will be gone.
@@paulbrodie The nickel will be a nice look as well.
I forgot in college art class bent some old steam pipe, filled with sand and capped the ends and vola a 6 foot snake
Yes, that is one way to do it. But, for oil lines, it's probably not a good idea to fill them with sand. If you don't get all of it out, and a few grains get into the motor, That is a problem!
Great video thanks for posting! Subbed. 😊
Thanks. Appreciate it...
Mitch sighting at 1:04!
he's real!
Saw Mitch in the hub cap reflection. Realness confirmed.
Great work on the Triumph! However my question is about the white commuter bicycle in the background. Did you build it? Do you still ride bicycles much? Personally I love both bicycles and motorcycles! But I ride bicycles much more nowadays. Like for the last 35 years.
That is a white, low trail touring bike. It is a Cycles Toussaint. I did not make it. I don't ride every day, but I do ride. Thanks for liking my Cub.
Hi Paul, I was wondering if there was pressure in the lines. I made some coolant lines for a sports car a few years ago. I didn’t put any raised edges on the ends of the lines and on the way to the grid, one of the hoses came adrift. I would hate to see all your work fail if one of the oil lines came off. By the way, a very elegant solution for the brake switch bracket! Cheers Col.
Thanks Colin. There will be a little pressure from the oil pump, but not substantial. It will be interesting to see which parts of the Cub will require attention.
It's the same on the B40, 44 and 50, theirs very little pressure in there, just a press fit. By the way, Mitch is a hansom looking guy, saw him in the reflection of the hub cap!!
I concur that the drake switch bracket show forethought and execution in its creation.
He is real! You can see him in the hubcap 1:01 . The hubcap makes him look like the grey alien on American Dad.
100% correct.
Now your just showing off 😉
I'm trying to finish the Cub!
You can fit a TLS backplate into a 350 hub. Far better brake than the SLS ones.
Yes, but I want the SLS. For the little Cub it will be perfect!
@@paulbrodie Ok. SLS brakes don't work that great, but better linings, and a custom-made cable with shorter outer, will improve them a lot.
@@humourless682 Yes. I know TLS are better, but I think it would look out of place on the little Cub. I will see if I can get Ferodo linings.
I have seen Mitch… he appeared in the shiny hub cap. Min 1.01 😎
You were very lucky to catch a glimpse of him!
@@paulbrodie sorry for the spoiling… couldn’t resist!!! 😆
nice
FYI - rubing candle wax on your hacksaw blade , makes cutting anything a breeze it keeps the blade from grabbing and also extends the life
I use cutting wax on my blades. Putting wax on a coarse blade will not stop it grabbing on thin copper tubing. Thanks for watching..
MITCH!!! In the hub cap!!!
What can I say?
that bike at 10:48 caught my eye..
So stoked the 69er is back whole again! Fabulous work as always. Are you sure my Imron paint from 1999 is still good? How do I get the activator part of the paint?
Keep it going!
Thanks Robert. I am not sure your 1999 Imron paint is still good. I ordered the 192S activator from the US, and had a friend of a friend bring it across the border for me.
That is a big oil line to feed the rockers, most triumphs suffer from over oiling because off the small drain holes
You might be right. We will see how my little motor does.
Hi Paul. Say, can you tell me what the I.d. Of the oil fitting is for the rocker arms? Like where you made that 1/4 spacer. I can’t seem to find that spec for my 71 bonneville. Don’t want too much or, more importantly too little oil getting to the cyl. Head. Nothing is stock on mine. Aftermarket Harley oil tank.
Michael, not sure of your question. The banjo fitting (from an Aermacchi) that feeds the rockers, has an ID of 5mm. The copper tubing is 5mm OD with a 3mm ID.
@@paulbrodie so the 5mm at the banjo would be the smallest part of the line? Right now, I have a tee fitting that sends half the oil to the tank and the other half to the rocker shafts. It’s probably not correct.theoretically I could send all the oil from the pump to the rockers, and the banjo will regulate how much oil to the rockers.right? I hope I’m making sense?
@@michaelnelson9140 The whole rocker feed line is 5mm. If you need to regulate the oil flow, plumb in a main jet and holder. Then you can change the size of the main jet to get the feed you want. Simple!
Thanks. I get that. But based on what I described my set up was, with the tee. I should be fine then? Because the 5mm bore or hole in the rocker assy, will restrict oil flow. Triumph took a weird route in engineering their top end lube set up! This is how the motorcycle was plumbed when I got it. It all seems sort of primitive. Obviously I don’t want to starve the top end, but I don’t want to dump too much oil either. With the dry sump system.and potential oil burning, if the rocker assy was swimming in excess oil.I am just going to leave it as is.thanks once again! Keep those videos coming!😁
@@michaelnelson9140 No, you're not really making sense, sorry. The smallest part of the line is 3mm. That is the ID of the tubing. If you need to regulate oil flow, plumb in a fitting that holds a main jet, then you can change main jets to get the pricise amount of oil flow you want. Make sense?
Hello Paul and Mitch, greetings from Nebraska. Have you ever worked with Nickel Copper brake line alloy. Bends very easy and is nice stuff to work with . Cheers mate!
Hello Nebraska! I have not worked with nickel copper brake line..
That screwdriver looks like an old automotive screwdriver used for checking spark - hold it up to the spark plug wire and it would glow.
As far as excessive solder, years ago a plumbing contractor friend of mine came over to look at some copper sweated plumbing joints. He didn't know I had done them. When he saw them, he said, "Look what we got here... Roman Candles." I told him I did those, and said, "You need to wipe them off with a rag." Lesson learned.
Yes, I believe the screwdriver was designed to test for spark or voltage. Yes, a rag is good for wiping excess solder, thanks.
Just saw Mitch's reflection in the hub cap: he exists!
For sure.
Looks like someone could make a double disc brake to fit inside the original drum hub, to look almost stock, except for some cooling holes, a brake similar to the clutches , in a bike, or automatic transmission, layered disc and steels, but use rotors as pads, maybe use a spring washer to reduce friction when not braking, maybe this could be a new brake design for smaller vehicles, have rotors sliding on splines, with a double sided pad in the middle, and a 2piece caliper making a full circle, using spring washers, or tiny leaf springs to keep them separated for friction sake! 😜 Use a cover with inlet scoop holes, and outlet hole scoops to let heat out!! A brake pad that looks like a really thick motorcycle clutch, about 15-20, maybe 25mm thick for the double sided pad, and 12-15mm for a single sided pad, with rotors around 4-5mm thick, , and upwards of 120mm outer diameter, about 100mm in the center, with about 8 12mm pistons, on each side, should bake for easy braking! Alot of work to hand make!!
James, I just want to keep it simple. An 8" single leading shoe is what the Cub needs, but thanks for putting so much thought into the matter!
Good solution to the rear brake light switch mount. Would it have been better and somewhat easier to have made it out of a single piece of quarter-inch cold-rolled plate? That's just me talking from the peanut gallery. You're there doing the hands-on work, so it's still a good job. Thanks, Paul.
Thanks. There is always more than one way to do a project. When I started the switch I had no idea what the mount was going to look like. It's part of the fun!
@@paulbrodie You are correct, and who knows, you can always improve or change things someday down the road.
1:01 = Mitch
1:01 MITCH!
You have well more fabrication experience than I do but, that little piece of "bent" rod you used in place of a spring might work better if you were to make a 360 degree loop (abut the diameter of a dime?) in the middle of its length. I feel the rod may eventually be stressed and let go. What do you think, could it work or might it be just a silly idea?
The nickel silver rod has quite a bit of strength for such a small diameter. The 360 degree loop could work, but would take quite a bit of force to stretch.
@@paulbrodie or an omega loop?
😎👍✌️