The beauty of the past five years encapsulated at 16:00 ... for all the helping hands along the way, at the end of the day it's the two of you doing it together ... nice ...
That is a bit of a long stick. Think about the pressure on it plunging through heavy seas. This is not a weekend, fair weather trip boat. It is intended for major ocean crossings in all weathers. A bit of a higher rake may be a better idea.
looking at dozens of pics of old sailing ships, it's clear that it should be a continuation of the sheer line. anything else looks broken. not even a question. but because it has no curve of it's own, it needs to be essentially a tangent, or possibly a secant, to the curve of the sheer line. in any event there is some variation. for the most part, the older the design (and i'm talking back to the 17th century kinda olde) the more of a disparity between the upward angle and the sheerline, in part due the the flattening of the sheerline over the centuries.
Love the idea. Perhaps adding some planking and creating a pulpit area surrounded by netting would provide a great dolphin watching spot. Too high looks just off plus it raises the clew of a foresail a lot raising the center of effort creating more heel vs draft. Might as well use a kite tied to the top of the mast... not. A kite would be attached as low as possible to maximize motion and not increase leverage tipping the boat.
I've loved Rolf from the first time I saw the Ernie Erwin poster over his workbench... The guys is a wealth of knowledge and I love is willingness to teach and share!!
She is coming along nicely, as for the bowsprit,,,,,follow the lines of the deck. Watching Rolf passing along his knowledge and skills is so moving to me, it just reinforces my belief in humanity to know that there are still good people in this world willing to share what they have perhaps learned from others,"play it forward". Ruth has got a good eye for what looks good. Great video.
Welding is far more fun than must folks will ever understand. There's something magical about being able to lay a good bead. Plus, it comes in amazingly handy around the homestead!
Aye, but it also needs to keep its stowage out of the rough seas from being washed away. And slightly more erect will be at a better angle for more rigging options that near flat out. Function should prevail over form on a working bit of the boat.
Visually this would be correct. As far as rigging, stowage, and hammock ability a more upward angle would be better. So, beauty, or function. Which should win the decision? I can't decide either.
Great job on the bow sprit! I would recommend an angle from following the line of the sheer to about 5 degrees above that line. If it is lower than the line of the sheer it will tend to look like it is drooping and Rediviva doesn't need any droopy things to detract from her beautiful lines. Thank you for the video and great work on this wonderful floating home.
Your great success is linked to your love of the journey. Getting fixed on the finish line only makes travel difficult. You two love each other and you love what you are doing each day. Nothing replaces that and I look forward to each new video. Thanks for your inspiration.
Ruth, welding is just practice, practice, practice. With that you get comfortable and relaxed and then you start getting into the rhythm. I don't weld often and when I have a project to do I spend an hour or 2 just burning rid and getting the jitters out. Garrett ( great name by the my since its my middle name lol) I always thought that bow net was just for looks. Soon as you said it was a "jib net" it clicked. But I'm not a sail person. Looking real good and nice job on the bracket.
I love how you two have tackled this boat. Everything you have done is well thought out and makes perfect sense. Can't wait to see her with full sails...you have a sturdy lady...and I am with Ruth on the Bowsprit...it will ultimately give you more sail area the lower it is...
Bonjour, J'ai découvert vos vidéo depuis quelques jours et je suis devenu un fan absolu...!!! vous devez êtres tellement fier de ce que vous réalisez !!! Je plein d'admiration pour la qualité de votre travail. En plus vous me faite travailler mon anglais mais souvent j'ai du mal à comprendre ce que vous dites !!! peut être pourriez vous créer des sous titres pour le petit frenchie of south of France...!! Continuez à nous faire rêver, merci. Philippe.
"The higher off the water the tip of the Bowsprit, the higher the center of effort for the headsails will be." ~ unknown sailor. The lower (shallower angle) pleases the eye, but there would seem to be other considerations like one's desired sail plan(s) & rigging options, and a steep enough angle to keep all that Bowsprit with her jib nets and tackle above an angry sea when it's blowing stink. Y'all stay safe with all those fires in your locale. Safe passage. Journey well 🌊 ❤️ ⚓️
"Coming along nicely" is this weeks understatement! Near the end, when you showed the 2 masts and the bowsprit perfectly in line...gosh, what a beautiful wooden boat! -admiration from a little town on the Erie Canal
Dude's clearly had an apprentice or two in his day. So clear and articulate. So positive and encouraging. So much patience. 😆 That's a good man to learn from. I mostly MIG and TIG. I have done my share of "Stick," but I do more Aluminum than steel plate and no one really needs to do submerged arc for that anymore. Same thing/different temperatures/bigger mess, under a pile of powder flux. When I learned Stick, it took me a while to strike consistently, (lots of profanity to start,) so if that was Ruth's very first arc strike, I'm impressed! Nice job! I enjoy the simplicity and economics of running a normal stick machine, but now I do any kind of stick welding so infrequently I laugh every time I get it right without a few minutes warm up. It's cheaper and takes less setting up and dialing in, but it's by no means easier; just different. Much love, y'all. Boat looks beautiful.
Actually never had a apprentice (I did a sort of apprenticeship) however I’ve taught many a person on many different topics of welding and metal fabrication. From welding to metal forming and tube bending and also joint preparation. It’s all fun, for me going to work is like going to metal shop everyday so I’m very fortunate to have followed my dream. I rarely have a bad day at work.... hell I get paid to go to metal shop how bad can it actually be? Rolf
So I was checking out some of the old videos over (Ive been with you since the beginning) and had a couple of questions, did you build to a plan or did you design it yourself? And how did you get your boat to Kali from Wash.? If you had to transport it what made you decide and what was the cost? Love your show, dont miss an episode.
Love this! I think the bowsprit is awesome and would look best if it matched the sheer in the bow. It would look more like it was designed right than sticking up at a steep angle. Not sure if you’ve looked at equalising the forces in the various stays, or even if that’s a thing. I’m just a guy who likes things to look like you meant it, even if you’re flying by the seat of your pants. Can’t wait to see it finished. Many thanks, kind regards, K33F
When you throw the net on and lay in it, it will better dictate how high the bow sprit should sit. If it feels perfect when you lounge in the net, then all is good with the world. Perfect tilt.
Been watching you guys from day one :-), I am impressed with the work u guys are doing. Have to agree with Ruth on this one LOL. A comment, I would have the bolts a bit longer so the pivot is not bearing on the threaded portion of the bolt, it won'take long for the thread to cut into the flat bar. Loose the lockwashers, use flats and locknuts, only time lockwashers do any good is when something comes loose and bolting thru wood it will eventually........Mike
Great job all around, I might have done one small thing more, I think I would have rounded off the hinge end of the sprit for no other reason than aesthetics. So looking forward to seeing you under sail in the future.
Well you most certainly passed the "How to beat on a drill 101" exam Lol! It's all good. The reason why we buy premium tools is so we can beat on them. I loved getting below the jib netting and sitting on the lower bob stay while hanging onto the upper dragging my feet in the water and losing myself watching the bow coming at me, on calmer days of course.
Did picking up your feet when you jump make you jump higher or did you just feel like you jumped higher? That was funny I love it. You guys make me smile.
Being a boat designer myself, the bowsprit should be tangential to the curve of the sheer. I agree whole heartedly that the mild steel needs to be hot-dip galvanized. It'll just rust away in no time in salt air/water. Lots of things to consider, but all part of creating a practical design.
Galv is better than nothing, but will only stem the inevitable for a few more years. So many galvanized fasteners in this boat, I feel bad for all the work these guys put in that they couldn't spring for bronze.
@@roscoejones4515 Yes.. I had commented many videos ago that their use of 'house deck screws' to fasten the planking was Not a good choice... wet wood surrounding mild steel is a sure ticket towards failure , and most likely to occur in a highly stressed situation, like in a heavy seaway.
I'll go with Ruth on the angle, lower down means more comfort on the Jib Net when she is filming the wildlife which is going to ride your bow wave, it will also be more comfortable for lounging around on, think of it as extra deck space...
Hi guys, My 2 cents: If you travel a bit once this boat finished enough, you'll realize that there are places in the world where there are very few or no anchorages (like The Azores, West coast of Portugal, Morocco and others), and it's marina or nothing. And then you'll probably regret not having designed a "quick and easy" system for your bowsprit (even with the quickest and easiest design you can come up with, this bowsprit lifting and lowering will always be a chore, I think). Here is what I have - a line latched to the bottom of the bow stem, running to the head of my bow spinnaker pole (acting as a bob stay) and coming back to the toe rail (acting then as a whisker stay). Double that, and you've got 2 bob stays + 1 whisker stay on each side with only 2 lines. Then to hoist your bowsprit, you just have to release the whisker stays and pull on your jib halyard or whatever lifts the thing. Hold fast!
I'm voting with Ruth. The bowsprit should be an extension of the deck plane. That keeps the three stays the shortest and give it the most rigidity. No turnbuckle on the bobstay only shackles and the turnbuckles on the other three. That way it can be deployed and removed from the deck, without the need for the dingy. It does look great on the front of the boat.
Thank you for using a lens when recording the welding. Makes it so much easier to watch rather then the random strobe. It’s cool when you can get up close and see the puddle do it’s thing. We can see what Is being described too.
I started stick welding at 15, and learned oxy acetylene in 8th grade shop- but I have been welding MIG for decades since. I got an old Dayton (re badged Century) 230 AC box given to me, which I need for heavier stuff (my MIG is a 110 volt Hobart) and man it was like learning to ride a bicycle all over again! There is just something about the sound and smell of a bead being laid at the proper amperage and speed. :)
Looks great, I vote for following the deck angle. You could cut some brass door hinges in half to lock the bowsprit into the vertical position while docked. The pins would be pretty tight though, maybe file or sand them down just a little on a drill so they can act like a drift pin.
When the slag pops off like that you did a good weld!!!! Also drill a smaller hole near the bottom of the bracket. through the sprit when up, and have a brass pin you can install through it to secure it when up. Powder coat the bracket?
Not sure what your plan is for the Bobstay, most go for a full chain, but since you want to raise the sprit regularly, I'd go with half chain and a pair of SS pulleys and some Dynema for the upper half that can be tied off to a cleat on the side of the bowsprit.That way you can raise and lower it without having to unbolt the chain, plus it can act as an adjustable 'Down haul' for the forward stay. You won't have to crawl out to the Cranse Iron or swim out to the Bobstay clamp and you should be able to reach the shroud clamps from the deck...And, while the angle is your choice, remember, the lower the sprit, the larger your jib can be.
Lower it to match deck lines at least a few more inches to parallel with deck...The bowsprit has all the cables to take loads, but the pole itself is a compression element in the middle, so it's better to have all that force be inline straight down it's length and not bending it and transferring that load to the samson post as a twisting or bending force to it and the deck.
What the heck... 3 to 4 weeks ago I spent days binge watching your series! I've Liked, Sub'd, etc... and never got notifications for any new videos!!! 😞😞😞😞😞 (And YES... hit the bell!)
Perhaps you have already realized this and have a plan, but this is an issue I see with the bow sprint design so far. The sprint's load is all pushing aft once it is rigged. In the current situation all the aft load is on one bolt. The surface area of the wood in contact with the bolt is too small. I would suggest at least a hard wood or steel contact point at the aft end of the timber at the surface below the pivot point so as it lower into position it would push aft against the sampson post. It could also rest on the deck giving you the ability to anchor it to the deck beams to share the load with the post through the butt end of the Sprint's surface. Even better also add a fitted shim wedge on the upper half after it is down, to also carry the load to the sampson post.
Rolf is a good welding coach. Garrett has a steady hand, like he said, from wood working. That welder is impressive for being only a 110V unit. Try some high nickel rod on stainless or cast iron. You can polish the brass-like bead for an interesting finish for a marine application.
I'm a new subsciber to your channel but I'm already addicted - I stayed awake most of last night watching episode after episode! Anyway, I think you have a beautiful and very individual boat. I have a strong preference for working type boats because of the characteristic aesthetics of those craft. I love the bowsprit and I have to agree with Ruth on this one, I think it looks best following the shear line. Perhaps there might be occasions when a more raffish look is appropriate but as a matter of course I suggest that a more conservative look will 'last' better in the perception of the majority of onlookers. FWIW I do have a suggestion re appearance of the boat. One advantage of setting the sprit low could be that - wait for it - you could fit a tastefully sculpted figurehead on the bow just below the sprit. It's just an idea but I think Red Viva is the style of boat that could carry one successfully. Q. Do you intend to use the classical wooden rings to carry the mainsail? I think they're a greatly practical way of fixing the sail to the mast, esp. for gaff rigs. Are you actually cruising now? I haven't seen the absolutely most recent episode yet. Enough of me. I will say in closing how nice it is to see two people so much in love with each other and enjoying being together. Cheers! PS. I love the wooden spars!
I am NOT a boat builder so take my opinion for what it's worth (not very much - on that we can agree lol!) but I am a sailor. From what I could see in the video, I have to agree with Ruth - for aesthetics, the bowsprit needs to be a little lower. In any case, you two are doing something truly impressive and amazing. The adventures you will have together on something you built together will bring you together with a bond not many couples can claim.
I'm with Ruth set it lower, would look much better if it followed the the deck line. Keep up the great content, i'm so looking forward to seeing her under way with full sails.
Looking ahead I'd be interested to know what the anchor arrangement will be with regard to the bowsprit position. With a boat this size manual chain/rope handling might be too much so it would be good to see how a winch/windlass arrangement is to be implemented. Yes I know, all in good time.
You’ll need a stem support to lock it down and a spreader to set the side stays at an angle they will hold when hard on the wind cause the boat is skinny in the bow
Re the welding, I put a slight bend in the rod at the mid point, it helps me and also you can do a small circular motion at the tip as opposed to a straight line.
The angle of the sprit should be graceful to the shear line - in that respect Ruth has a good point. Remembering also the angle to some extent determines sail size and ease of tacking same
The beauty of the past five years encapsulated at 16:00 ... for all the helping hands along the way, at the end of the day it's the two of you doing it together ... nice ...
Looks better lower down, nearer to the continued line of the deck.
I'm with Ruth on this one. Looks weird having the bow sprit sticking up like that! Would look so much more fair following the line of the deck.
That is a bit of a long stick. Think about the pressure on it plunging through heavy seas. This is not a weekend, fair weather trip boat. It is intended for major ocean crossings in all weathers. A bit of a higher rake may be a better idea.
Yeah Ruth is right this time! Lower is better. It will allow for more sail as well.
I'm with Ruth on this one! Follow the sheer line or maybe just a few degrees above it.
I agree with Ruth, lower the sprit
looking at dozens of pics of old sailing ships, it's clear that it should be a continuation of the sheer line. anything else looks broken. not even a question. but because it has no curve of it's own, it needs to be essentially a tangent, or possibly a secant, to the curve of the sheer line. in any event there is some variation. for the most part, the older the design (and i'm talking back to the 17th century kinda olde) the more of a disparity between the upward angle and the sheerline, in part due the the flattening of the sheerline over the centuries.
That is correct. Also, that will give you more sail area and a better sail angle.
But check out the boat here. th-cam.com/video/LSbro-c4G8s/w-d-xo.html
Jump to 2:0
Did I just hear ole swab say to the other boats. That's not a boat, this is a boat. Great job Garrett and Ruth
Perhaps let the bowsprit be a natural extention of the front of the deck?
Love the idea. Perhaps adding some planking and creating a pulpit area surrounded by netting would provide a great dolphin watching spot.
Too high looks just off plus it raises the clew of a foresail a lot raising the center of effort creating more heel vs draft.
Might as well use a kite tied to the top of the mast... not. A kite would be attached as low as possible to maximize motion and not increase leverage tipping the boat.
I'm with Ruth. Bow sprit should follow the sheer line. 👍👍👍
It should totally follow the sheer line. This isn't a viagra commercial...
I've loved Rolf from the first time I saw the Ernie Erwin poster over his workbench... The guys is a wealth of knowledge and I love is willingness to teach and share!!
She is coming along nicely, as for the bowsprit,,,,,follow the lines of the deck. Watching Rolf passing along his knowledge and skills is so moving to me, it just reinforces my belief in humanity to know that there are still good people in this world willing to share what they have perhaps learned from others,"play it forward". Ruth has got a good eye for what looks good. Great video.
Rolf is just so awesome guy. you lucky to meet so great people
As she was walking backwards, I was convinced Ruth was going into the drink. BTW I'm with Ruth on the bowsprit angle.
The bowsprit should follow the shear line. Look at your plans drawing from George. Good job, good channel!
Welding is far more fun than must folks will ever understand. There's something magical about being able to lay a good bead. Plus, it comes in amazingly handy around the homestead!
ruth thank you for the welding filter seeinng the welding was awesome.
Ruth , I had to hold my breath when you were standing under the bowsprit ..glad it didn't slip off the end big time head ache ! Safety first...
Follow the sheer line remember it has to carry sail when airs are lighter so more sail is best. Also too high and it looks like an erection.
Aye, but it also needs to keep its stowage out of the rough seas from being washed away. And slightly more erect will be at a better angle for more rigging options that near flat out. Function should prevail over form on a working bit of the boat.
The angle of the dangle should always be in proportion to the mass of the keel ????
Your bowsprit should follow the same lines as the gunwales and bulwarks. No higher no lower.
Rolf's such a great guy and of course a great welder.
Ruth is right, lower the sprit!
Visually this would be correct. As far as rigging, stowage, and hammock ability a more upward angle would be better. So, beauty, or function. Which should win the decision? I can't decide either.
My Vote goes to Garret. place it high.
Another great episode and just that much closer yo your dream. Thanks for allowing us to come for the ride. As always Stay Safe.
Dude, come on, sorry theres no guy solidarity, Ruth is so right. You cant have the sprit that high... its not the black pearl!
Rolf is so knowledgeable I was so impressed with those out of the gate welds he put down. Smoothest stick I’ve ever seen
Thank you for putting the lens over the camera during the welding.
I haven’t done this in forever....makes perfect weld!
Great job on the bow sprit! I would recommend an angle from following the line of the sheer to about 5 degrees above that line. If it is lower than the line of the sheer it will tend to look like it is drooping and Rediviva doesn't need any droopy things to detract from her beautiful lines. Thank you for the video and great work on this wonderful floating home.
Ruth don't give up on the welding, as a journeyman welder I know that practice is the key
Your great success is linked to your love of the journey. Getting fixed on the finish line only makes travel difficult. You two love each other and you love what you are doing each day. Nothing replaces that and I look forward to each new video. Thanks for your inspiration.
Ruth, welding is just practice, practice, practice. With that you get comfortable and relaxed and then you start getting into the rhythm. I don't weld often and when I have a project to do I spend an hour or 2 just burning rid and getting the jitters out. Garrett ( great name by the my since its my middle name lol) I always thought that bow net was just for looks. Soon as you said it was a "jib net" it clicked. But I'm not a sail person. Looking real good and nice job on the bracket.
Wish I could learn from Rolf... Good Dude for sure!!!
You can! Just get a hold of me and we can talk.
Rolfbeth1
Ruth to be fair that was a much better first attempt at stick welding than mine!
Good video you guys, and Rolf - your such a good Soul , comedy bit at the end was funny too ;-)
I love how you two have tackled this boat. Everything you have done is well thought out and makes perfect sense. Can't wait to see her with full sails...you have a sturdy lady...and I am with Ruth on the Bowsprit...it will ultimately give you more sail area the lower it is...
Ruth is spot on with this one.
Awesome as always. LOWER, Ruth is 100% correct my good man.
Bonjour,
J'ai découvert vos vidéo depuis quelques jours et je suis devenu un fan absolu...!!! vous devez êtres tellement fier de ce que vous réalisez !!! Je plein d'admiration pour la qualité de votre travail. En plus vous me faite travailler mon anglais mais souvent j'ai du mal à comprendre ce que vous dites !!! peut être pourriez vous créer des sous titres pour le petit frenchie of south of France...!! Continuez à nous faire rêver, merci.
Philippe.
"The higher off the water the tip of the Bowsprit, the higher the center of effort for the headsails will be." ~ unknown sailor. The lower (shallower angle) pleases the eye, but there would seem to be other considerations like one's desired sail plan(s) & rigging options, and a steep enough angle to keep all that Bowsprit with her jib nets and tackle above an angry sea when it's blowing stink. Y'all stay safe with all those fires in your locale. Safe passage. Journey well 🌊 ❤️ ⚓️
ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
My vote is with Ruth. She knows a Thing. 😂
Ruth those are damn good first welds! If Garret needed you to weld something to get the boat fixed I bet you’d get it done just fine!
Congratulations Its a Boy!!
And what a boy!
"Coming along nicely" is this weeks understatement! Near the end, when you showed the 2 masts and the bowsprit perfectly in line...gosh, what a beautiful wooden boat! -admiration from a little town on the Erie Canal
I agree with Ruth, stupid high. Most bowsprit follow the sheer line but it’s your boat. Love that you can stand it up and make a 3 masted schooner.
I watched the whole thing waiting for the part about the “wedding” guru!!! Only after the end did I go back and read the title correctly! 🤣🤣
Can't wait to see your sails flying.
I think the bowsprit should be in line of the middle of the waterline and the sheerline.
Love the solution for reducing length when needed!
Looking good guys! I think the bowsprit angle should somehow follow the sheer line. Or just slightly rise from there. 🤔🧐
Looking forward to seeing how the anchor rig is going to fare with the current sprit/sampson post configuration.
Dude's clearly had an apprentice or two in his day. So clear and articulate. So positive and encouraging. So much patience. 😆 That's a good man to learn from. I mostly MIG and TIG. I have done my share of "Stick," but I do more Aluminum than steel plate and no one really needs to do submerged arc for that anymore. Same thing/different temperatures/bigger mess, under a pile of powder flux. When I learned Stick, it took me a while to strike consistently, (lots of profanity to start,) so if that was Ruth's very first arc strike, I'm impressed! Nice job! I enjoy the simplicity and economics of running a normal stick machine, but now I do any kind of stick welding so infrequently I laugh every time I get it right without a few minutes warm up. It's cheaper and takes less setting up and dialing in, but it's by no means easier; just different. Much love, y'all. Boat looks beautiful.
Actually never had a apprentice (I did a sort of apprenticeship) however I’ve taught many a person on many different topics of welding and metal fabrication. From welding to metal forming and tube bending and also joint preparation. It’s all fun, for me going to work is like going to metal shop everyday so I’m very fortunate to have followed my dream. I rarely have a bad day at work.... hell I get paid to go to metal shop how bad can it actually be? Rolf
Lookin so good can’t wait to see the sails up and full ⛵️
So I was checking out some of the old videos over (Ive been with you since the beginning) and had a couple of questions, did you build to a plan or did you design it yourself?
And how did you get your boat to Kali from Wash.? If you had to transport it what made you decide and what was the cost?
Love your show, dont miss an episode.
Bowsprits look best when they flow with the lines of the boat. IMO. She's looking great.
My vote is to follow the sheer line on the deck. It looks a galleon up in the air. The boat looks good.
Love this! I think the bowsprit is awesome and would look best if it matched the sheer in the bow. It would look more like it was designed right than sticking up at a steep angle. Not sure if you’ve looked at equalising the forces in the various stays, or even if that’s a thing. I’m just a guy who likes things to look like you meant it, even if you’re flying by the seat of your pants. Can’t wait to see it finished. Many thanks, kind regards, K33F
I agree, the bowsprit should match the sheer
Closer to Ruths angle. Looking GREAT!!
When you throw the net on and lay in it, it will better dictate how high the bow sprit should sit. If it feels perfect when you lounge in the net, then all is good with the world. Perfect tilt.
Been watching you guys from day one :-), I am impressed with the work u guys are doing. Have to agree with Ruth on this one LOL. A comment, I would have the bolts a bit longer so the pivot is not bearing on the threaded portion of the bolt, it won'take long for the thread to cut into the flat bar. Loose the lockwashers, use flats and locknuts, only time lockwashers do any good is when something comes loose and bolting thru wood it will eventually........Mike
I agree with above mentioned, the bowsprit could follow the sheer line forward
Great job all around, I might have done one small thing more, I think I would have rounded off the hinge end of the sprit for no other reason than aesthetics. So looking forward to seeing you under sail in the future.
I'm with you, Ruth.
Well you most certainly passed the "How to beat on a drill 101" exam Lol! It's all good. The reason why we buy premium tools is so we can beat on them.
I loved getting below the jib netting and sitting on the lower bob stay while hanging onto the upper dragging my feet in the water and losing myself watching the bow coming at me, on calmer days of course.
Did picking up your feet when you jump make you jump higher or did you just feel like you jumped higher? That was funny I love it. You guys make me smile.
Being a boat designer myself, the bowsprit should be tangential to the curve of the sheer. I agree whole heartedly that the mild steel needs to be hot-dip galvanized. It'll just rust away in no time in salt air/water. Lots of things to consider, but all part of creating a practical design.
Galv is better than nothing, but will only stem the inevitable for a few more years. So many galvanized fasteners in this boat, I feel bad for all the work these guys put in that they couldn't spring for bronze.
@@roscoejones4515 Yes.. I had commented many videos ago that their use of 'house deck screws' to fasten the planking was Not a good choice... wet wood surrounding mild steel is a sure ticket towards failure , and most likely to occur in a highly stressed situation, like in a heavy seaway.
I'll go with Ruth on the angle, lower down means more comfort on the Jib Net when she is filming the wildlife which is going to ride your bow wave, it will also be more comfortable for lounging around on, think of it as extra deck space...
Food for thought You should make a steal band or brass band for around the top of that Sampson post to stop a heavy checking at the top
Ok MAYBE its like an inch high...LOL... my vote is follow the sheer. You guys are awesome.
Hi guys,
My 2 cents:
If you travel a bit once this boat finished enough, you'll realize that there are places in the world where there are very few or no anchorages (like The Azores, West coast of Portugal, Morocco and others), and it's marina or nothing. And then you'll probably regret not having designed a "quick and easy" system for your bowsprit (even with the quickest and easiest design you can come up with, this bowsprit lifting and lowering will always be a chore, I think).
Here is what I have - a line latched to the bottom of the bow stem, running to the head of my bow spinnaker pole (acting as a bob stay) and coming back to the toe rail (acting then as a whisker stay). Double that, and you've got 2 bob stays + 1 whisker stay on each side with only 2 lines. Then to hoist your bowsprit, you just have to release the whisker stays and pull on your jib halyard or whatever lifts the thing.
Hold fast!
I'm voting with Ruth. The bowsprit should be an extension of the deck plane. That keeps the three stays the shortest and give it the most rigidity. No turnbuckle on the bobstay only shackles and the turnbuckles on the other three. That way it can be deployed and removed from the deck, without the need for the dingy. It does look great on the front of the boat.
Thank you for using a lens when recording the welding. Makes it so much easier to watch rather then the random strobe. It’s cool when you can get up close and see the puddle do it’s thing. We can see what Is being described too.
I started stick welding at 15, and learned oxy acetylene in 8th grade shop- but I have been welding MIG for decades since. I got an old Dayton (re badged Century) 230 AC box given to me, which I need for heavier stuff (my MIG is a 110 volt Hobart) and man it was like learning to ride a bicycle all over again! There is just something about the sound and smell of a bead being laid at the proper amperage and speed. :)
Your videos make my week, thank you
Good Video, very striate forward and concise like the format
Looks great, I vote for following the deck angle. You could cut some brass door hinges in half to lock the bowsprit into the vertical position while docked. The pins would be pretty tight though, maybe file or sand them down just a little on a drill so they can act like a drift pin.
Thanks! Fun episode.
When the slag pops off like that you did a good weld!!!! Also drill a smaller hole near the bottom of the bracket. through the sprit when up, and have a brass pin you can install through it to secure it when up. Powder coat the bracket?
Wow, Congratulations!
Not sure what your plan is for the Bobstay, most go for a full chain, but since you want to raise the sprit regularly, I'd go with half chain and a pair of SS pulleys and some Dynema for the upper half that can be tied off to a cleat on the side of the bowsprit.That way you can raise and lower it without having to unbolt the chain, plus it can act as an adjustable 'Down haul' for the forward stay. You won't have to crawl out to the Cranse Iron or swim out to the Bobstay clamp and you should be able to reach the shroud clamps from the deck...And, while the angle is your choice, remember, the lower the sprit, the larger your jib can be.
Lower it to match deck lines at least a few more inches to parallel with deck...The bowsprit has all the cables to take loads, but the pole itself is a compression element in the middle, so it's better to have all that force be inline straight down it's length and not bending it and transferring that load to the samson post as a twisting or bending force to it and the deck.
Looking cooler every episode!
What the heck... 3 to 4 weeks ago I spent days binge watching your series!
I've Liked, Sub'd, etc... and never got notifications for any new videos!!! 😞😞😞😞😞
(And YES... hit the bell!)
Perhaps you have already realized this and have a plan, but this is an issue I see with the bow sprint design so far. The sprint's load is all pushing aft once it is rigged. In the current situation all the aft load is on one bolt. The surface area of the wood in contact with the bolt is too small. I would suggest at least a hard wood or steel contact point at the aft end of the timber at the surface below the pivot point so as it lower into position it would push aft against the sampson post. It could also rest on the deck giving you the ability to anchor it to the deck beams to share the load with the post through the butt end of the Sprint's surface. Even better also add a fitted shim wedge on the upper half after it is down, to also carry the load to the sampson post.
Rolf is a good welding coach. Garrett has a steady hand, like he said, from wood working. That welder is impressive for being only a 110V unit. Try some high nickel rod on stainless or cast iron. You can polish the brass-like bead for an interesting finish for a marine application.
Garrett ------ it's a bowsprit --------- listen to Ruth she clearly understands "angles" and their importance much more than you...............
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I'm a new subsciber to your channel but I'm already addicted - I stayed awake most of last night watching episode after episode! Anyway, I think you have a beautiful and very individual boat. I have a strong preference for working type boats because of the characteristic aesthetics of those craft.
I love the bowsprit and I have to agree with Ruth on this one, I think it looks best following the shear line. Perhaps there might be occasions when a more raffish look is appropriate but as a matter of course I suggest that a more conservative look will 'last' better in the perception of the majority of onlookers. FWIW I do have a suggestion re appearance of the boat. One advantage of setting the sprit low could be that - wait for it - you could fit a tastefully sculpted figurehead on the bow just below the sprit. It's just an idea but I think Red Viva is the style of boat that could carry one successfully. Q. Do you intend to use the classical wooden rings to carry the mainsail? I think they're a greatly practical way of fixing the sail to the mast, esp. for gaff rigs.
Are you actually cruising now? I haven't seen the absolutely most recent episode yet. Enough of me. I will say in closing how nice it is to see two people so much in love with each other and enjoying being together. Cheers!
PS. I love the wooden spars!
I am NOT a boat builder so take my opinion for what it's worth (not very much - on that we can agree lol!) but I am a sailor. From what I could see in the video, I have to agree with Ruth - for aesthetics, the bowsprit needs to be a little lower. In any case, you two are doing something truly impressive and amazing. The adventures you will have together on something you built together will bring you together with a bond not many couples can claim.
hi looking very good guys
Watching from the UK 👍🏻🤘🏻
She realy is a great " Ketch"! The lines are looking great.
Hi guys its looking good.
Great work, As a landluber I think it should follow on from the line of the deck.
I'm with Ruth set it lower, would look much better if it followed the the deck line. Keep up the great content, i'm so looking forward to seeing her under way with full sails.
Looking ahead I'd be interested to know what the anchor arrangement will be with regard to the bowsprit position. With a boat this size manual chain/rope handling might be too much so it would be good to see how a winch/windlass arrangement is to be implemented. Yes I know, all in good time.
My dad was in the Merchant Marine in WW II. He called the 'jib net' a cadet catcher.
You’ll need a stem support to lock it down and a spreader to set the side stays at an angle they will hold when hard on the wind cause the boat is skinny in the bow
Re the welding, I put a slight bend in the rod at the mid point, it helps me and also you can do a small circular motion at the tip as opposed to a straight line.
john from Sydney,Im with Ruth it looks good strait to 10 degrees easier to walk along too.
The angle of the sprit should be graceful to the shear line - in that respect Ruth has a good point. Remembering also the angle to some extent determines sail size and ease of tacking same
Form and function. You may want to touch base with a sailmaker before setting the final angle of the sprit.
For the net below the bowsprit and the rigging of the bowsprit look at the video of JOLIE BRISE racing 2018
I would have it following the curve of the bulwark. A vote for Ruth.
Garret if make little circles with the electrode it will help keep you at a nice penetration speed
It's like a big arrow, pointing the direction to sail. Onward. Way to go.