Okay, got the cylinders out. Two useful pieces of information if you are doing this: 1. The wafer you need to move is about 23.5mm depth from the face of the lock, and 2. the point of your tool should be facing "Open", or away from "Release". You then push the wafer toward "Open".
Hi Cuban Rider. I would just like to say that your explanation of how to release the cylinder was the best on You Tube. Ive been trying to get the cylinder out for 3 days and once I found your explanation of how to release the locking plate, it just flew out. What a fright I got ha ha. Fantastic. Many many thanks dude.
Very helpful, clear and understandable! One question: since the back wafer can move in only one direction to remove the cylinder, is there any way to tell which direction to go when the lock is installed on the bag? Thanks
Really good question. In my case my normal position is with the last "locking" wafer facing up, so if the keyway is horizontal, that would make the wafer lock to the right side, so you'd have to "pick" to the left to defeat the spring.
The easiest method in my opinion would be to use a shim between the cylinder and the lock body which will sit between the 2, while holding down all the wafers/pins the cylinder will slide right out. You just insert the thin metal shim at the face of the lock all the way back(not in the keyway, but between the cylinder and the body of the lock) and then slide sideways, between the wafers and the lock body. It will pop right out. This won't work with all locks because sometimes the space between is blocked off or too tight.
I thought about it. The problem is that without the key inserted, all the wafers are sticking out and there's no room for a shim to go. I tried to insert a very thin pick while the core was still inserted to try to get to that last clip holding the core in place, but had no luck. I mean, there's always a way around it, but I'm no lockpickinglawyer. I'm sure he would figure out 5 different ways to get this thing open.
i did it but i insert the key very hard and i take it out. it works but not very well. Where do you think I made the mistake? I can't unscrew the cylinder lock to set it up again. I'll be glad, if you help me. thanks
Without the current correct key inserted, won’t all the other wafers be also sticking out? If so, won’t that prevent the cylinder from being removed? Or do the wafers that the key moves, not obstruct the removal of the cylinder when they are protruding?
You don't need the key to remove the cylinder, you just need to engage that last spring-loaded wafer to pull the cylinder out. Once out, you can rearrange the wafers to match the key you have.
Ok, I have seen your riding the Deals Gap area many times & thought you lived here in the south east. No trips planned this way anytime soon? I am being told that the only way to remove the lock core in my gsa is by drilling it out & then possibly damaging the core.
If I brought my gsa top box with the lockset installed (I do not have the key) would you key it for me to my new gsa? You reside in east TN right? Thank you, TJ
Not sure what you mean. Are you installing a new cylinder? The spring loaded wafer that holds the entire cylinder is place is just on one side, you don't turn it, you slide it in until it clicks in place.
I am installing new cylinders and you just answered my question Basically it can only go in one way to lock in place for use. Thanks very much for this
Okay, got the cylinders out. Two useful pieces of information if you are doing this: 1. The wafer you need to move is about 23.5mm depth from the face of the lock, and 2. the point of your tool should be facing "Open", or away from "Release". You then push the wafer toward "Open".
Well done! Techniques and measurements... Wow you gave us everything!
Hi Cuban Rider. I would just like to say that your explanation of how to release the cylinder was the best on You Tube. Ive been trying to get the cylinder out for 3 days and once I found your explanation of how to release the locking plate, it just flew out. What a fright I got ha ha. Fantastic. Many many thanks dude.
Dude! I'm glad it helped you, I had a bit of a struggle to figure it out myself. 🤙
It took a good number of attempts but it worked on a satnav cradle. Thank you!
This is some awesome hack! I like these hands on practical videos.
Thank you sir! With your help I was able to rekey my top box! I appreciate your help.
You are a champion!! This is the best video I have seen. Thank you! 👌🙏
Like watching the lock picking lawyer. Good job
😉
Very helpful, clear and understandable! One question: since the back wafer can move in only one direction to remove the cylinder, is there any way to tell which direction to go when the lock is installed on the bag? Thanks
Really good question. In my case my normal position is with the last "locking" wafer facing up, so if the keyway is horizontal, that would make the wafer lock to the right side, so you'd have to "pick" to the left to defeat the spring.
Alright, thank you very much CR. Do you have some trips planned for the Gap next year? I'd love to met you bud!!
The easiest method in my opinion would be to use a shim between the cylinder and the lock body which will sit between the 2, while holding down all the wafers/pins the cylinder will slide right out. You just insert the thin metal shim at the face of the lock all the way back(not in the keyway, but between the cylinder and the body of the lock) and then slide sideways, between the wafers and the lock body. It will pop right out. This won't work with all locks because sometimes the space between is blocked off or too tight.
I thought about it. The problem is that without the key inserted, all the wafers are sticking out and there's no room for a shim to go. I tried to insert a very thin pick while the core was still inserted to try to get to that last clip holding the core in place, but had no luck. I mean, there's always a way around it, but I'm no lockpickinglawyer. I'm sure he would figure out 5 different ways to get this thing open.
@@CubanRider glad you figured it out! Like a puzzle...
This is an excellent explanation! Thank you
That info will get filed away for future use - Thank you!
I dont think 4cm gonna fit bro 🤣🤣🤣 great video!!
I know, I messed that up. 😅 When you're forced to work with inches all day, the metric system starts fading away.
@@CubanRider lol. Yea... when u think about it... what were they thinking 🤣🤣🤣
You missed some very important details. The liquid cooled and the S1000XR tho similar, require a different method of removal than any other bmw.
i did it but i insert the key very hard and i take it out. it works but not very well. Where do you think I made the mistake? I can't unscrew the cylinder lock to set it up again. I'll be glad, if you help me. thanks
Help! I did this, key went in and and out just fine until I slipped it back into the box. Now key won’t come out and it’s my only set 😬
@@MrVeyec 🫣
Without the current correct key inserted, won’t all the other wafers be also sticking out? If so, won’t that prevent the cylinder from being removed? Or do the wafers that the key moves, not obstruct the removal of the cylinder when they are protruding?
You don't need the key to remove the cylinder, you just need to engage that last spring-loaded wafer to pull the cylinder out. Once out, you can rearrange the wafers to match the key you have.
Ok, I have seen your riding the Deals Gap area many times & thought you lived here in the south east. No trips planned this way anytime soon? I am being told that the only way to remove the lock core in my gsa is by drilling it out & then possibly damaging the core.
No trips planned, but watch the video a couple more times and it should make sense, you might be able to pull the core with a paper clip or similar.
If you show the video to any locksmith, they should be able to pick it and extract it in less than a minute.
For wafer lock there is a pick set which will open it in seconds...you don't need to suffer like this to pick the wafer lock
Where to find it?
Hola jinete cubano, gracias, lo voy a probar.
If I brought my gsa top box with the lockset installed (I do not have the key) would you key it for me to my new gsa? You reside in east TN right? Thank you, TJ
TJ I'm in central Texas, otherwise I'd be happy to help.
When putting a new lock in is there a top and bottom to install or is it just put it in and turn till it locks in ?
Not sure what you mean. Are you installing a new cylinder? The spring loaded wafer that holds the entire cylinder is place is just on one side, you don't turn it, you slide it in until it clicks in place.
I am installing new cylinders and you just answered my question Basically it can only go in one way to lock in place for use. Thanks very much for this