Nicely done. I grew up on the two cylinder letter series and I've run at least one of basically every model. I was only about 4 years old when my father took all of our tractors into the shop for complete overhauls one winter. The tractors came out with fresh engines and fresh paint in the spring and I came out with a considerable amount of mechanical knowledge about all of our tractors (B, 60, a couple MTs, D, 50 and a 44 Massey Harris). I remember very well tearing into those clutches and adjusting them regularly. My father was trained by John Deere to work on them when he bought his first tractor, a new 15/27 D. In the 1960s when we used those tractors, we never gave a second thought to worrying about leaving them running with the clutch disengaged and truly never had a problem that I can remember. Now, after all these years I see all the time people posting advice about kicking them into neutral and engaging the clutch. But, it may just have been the case that those bushings were cheap in those days and so nobody worried about it. We did keep them greased, I know.
Hellow. I am from Argentina, and here we use a clutch of foot in john deere 730. You can see: Reforma Arlotti embrague john deere 730. Is maked with the clutch of Ford 700 truck.
Howdy from Texas, I have a 1949 styled John Deere A with a bad wobble when in 4th gear. I need some help with adjusting steering or advised on which parts I should replace. Thanks Mike
I have another video on wheel alignment for these old units. Is 4th. gear 'road gear' in this transmission? Could the wobble be something seriously out of balance with, say, the rear tires?
Good day. I was watching de boss garage Ont. on john deere s. saw your video, seen your t shirt team Canada. I'm from Ont. Kit-WAT.area. wondering where your from. Thanks
Hehe! Good eye on the T. I am from a small town about an hour SW of Winnipeg. I wore T-shirts like this when touring Israel and Jordan a few years ago. The tractors in Israel have licence plates on them. Thanks for the comment.
I will say yes, everything will need disassembly for cleaning and inspection, then the splines will have to be lined up one at a time. Place the clutch plates in the same position as found. And, yes, the engagement lever housing must be removed in order for the pulley to come out. Thank you for the comment.
so ive got a 57 jd 620 had the clutch rebuilt in 90's had 20 hours put on it than parked and it ciezed replaced all facings and one cracked disk but wont disengage after reassembling any tips?
Ok i have a few questions. I have a John Deere A Styled. The Main Gear (first reduction gear) is hitting on the main case. How do you adjust the endplay in the crank to have it come out toward the clutch side. Thank you! Great video! i love seeing people working on these older tractors! you ever go to tractor shows? Love em'
Unfortunately there are few 'tractor shows' to be had in my area. The closest one is the Austin, Manitoba agriculture museum which I attend annually. Which are your favorite tractor shows?
Have you verified that the crankshaft end-play is excessive by pulling and pushing on the flywheel? Or do you think perhaps that the crank was installed incorrectly? Most of these crankshafts are adjustable but requires a significant tear-down of both the clutch and the flywheel side.
Nicely done. I grew up on the two cylinder letter series and I've run at least one of basically every model. I was only about 4 years old when my father took all of our tractors into the shop for complete overhauls one winter. The tractors came out with fresh engines and fresh paint in the spring and I came out with a considerable amount of mechanical knowledge about all of our tractors (B, 60, a couple MTs, D, 50 and a 44 Massey Harris). I remember very well tearing into those clutches and adjusting them regularly. My father was trained by John Deere to work on them when he bought his first tractor, a new 15/27 D. In the 1960s when we used those tractors, we never gave a second thought to worrying about leaving them running with the clutch disengaged and truly never had a problem that I can remember. Now, after all these years I see all the time people posting advice about kicking them into neutral and engaging the clutch. But, it may just have been the case that those bushings were cheap in those days and so nobody worried about it. We did keep them greased, I know.
Hey, thanks for the post. I love to hear the stories about old iron. It gets in your blood and is hard to remove.
Hellow. I am from Argentina, and here we use a clutch of foot in john deere 730. You can see: Reforma Arlotti embrague john deere 730. Is maked with the clutch of Ford 700 truck.
this is a great video
Thank you for the kind comment. Hopefully these videos will help people keep their old iron alive and out of the scrap bin.
Howdy from Texas,
I have a 1949 styled John Deere A with a bad wobble when in 4th gear. I need some help with adjusting steering or advised on which parts I should replace. Thanks Mike
I have another video on wheel alignment for these old units. Is 4th. gear 'road gear' in this transmission? Could the wobble be something seriously out of balance with, say, the rear tires?
Good day. I was watching de boss garage Ont. on john deere s. saw your video, seen your t shirt team Canada. I'm from Ont. Kit-WAT.area. wondering where your from. Thanks
Hehe! Good eye on the T. I am from a small town about an hour SW of Winnipeg. I wore T-shirts like this when touring Israel and Jordan a few years ago. The tractors in Israel have licence plates on them. Thanks for the comment.
Does the clutch/brake assy. have to be removed to remove the pulley?
I will say yes, everything will need disassembly for cleaning and inspection, then the splines will have to be lined up one at a time. Place the clutch plates in the same position as found. And, yes, the engagement lever housing must be removed in order for the pulley to come out. Thank you for the comment.
so ive got a 57 jd 620 had the clutch rebuilt in 90's had 20 hours put on it than parked and it ciezed replaced all facings and one cracked disk but wont disengage after reassembling any tips?
Sorry for my tardy reply, just found this comment now. Did you get it repaired?
Ok i have a few questions. I have a John Deere A Styled. The Main Gear (first reduction gear) is hitting on the main case. How do you adjust the endplay in the crank to have it come out toward the clutch side. Thank you!
Great video! i love seeing people working on these older tractors! you ever go to tractor shows?
Love em'
Unfortunately there are few 'tractor shows' to be had in my area. The closest one is the Austin, Manitoba agriculture museum which I attend annually. Which are your favorite tractor shows?
Have you verified that the crankshaft end-play is excessive by pulling and pushing on the flywheel? Or do you think perhaps that the crank was installed incorrectly? Most of these crankshafts are adjustable but requires a significant tear-down of both the clutch and the flywheel side.
Here is the jdparts link (page 16 for the crankshaft) for a styled A or AR tractor:
jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0675.pdf
First reduction gear shown on pages 81 and 82. Is there any chance that the problem is with the first reduction gear/shaft/bearing unit?
Is there another part to the video?
Thank you for the comment. Yes there are more parts: (1) 1953 John Deere AR Styled first start. (2) 1953 John Deere AR Styled first run.