Thanks, this video is very informative! I would really like to see you do a short video of actually removing a stubborn plug or one with the screwdriver slot stripped out using easy-outs and/or heat.
Good vid !! Well explained I watched it a few times be sure to watch this for a great break down on your old DLTX carbs need to do my old A but struggle getting bits for it in England so will have to do with just a clean for now .
Would the carburetor on a X530 be about the same? My husband had both knee’s replaced last summer so he hired someone to cut the grass with their own equipment, and our mower didn’t get started or have gas treatment added to it during the winter. After changing the oil and filter, fuel filter plus air filter this spring the mower seemed to be doing great except after about 20 to 30 minutes of running it just stops, and then backfires at times, but it doesn’t backfire every time it stops. It always starts right back up do you think carburetor cleaner would help ? The closest JD dealer is 200 miles one way…the mower has 80 hours on it, and it’s a 2012 X530. I think he’s going to get a new set of plugs and see if that helps, but it runs so good until it just stops which makes things confusing….Oh, and he also said it has stopped more while cutting in the back yard on a incline the front yard is level. He was going to look for help on here, but he works nights and sleeps all day so I thought I would ask….sorry for the book I just wrote, but this was the only way I knew to tell you about it…lol…by the way he called the JD dealer where he bought it, and all they would say was bring it in he just hated driving 200 miles one way for maybe a 30 minute fix, but he may have to. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
Lucy Lee this carb goes on an antique tractor, your x530 will be quite a bit smaller and more modern. by your symptoms I can thing of two things happening: a swollen seat in the carb lowers the float level and starves the engine for fuel, and when on an incline the fuel in the bowl shifts and the engine dies, or under heavy load it sucks up all the gas in the carb before it can replenish it, or its an ignition coil cutting out. however if you can restart it that leads me to believe its more carburetor related. best of luck to you both!
Its a good idea unless there's a lot of rust and buildup on the walls of the passage. The proper sized drill bits take the passages back to their original size
Is the nozzle orientated (clocked) a certain way when putting back in? The one I obtained is really dirty and can not see the orifices, so wanted to make sure after pulling and cleaning. Thanks.
Jimmy's Tractors alright thanks I got a John Deere B that DEFINITELY would like this. What carborator is that off of looks just like mine but i know they made similar looking ones. How much would a kit and the tools cost? Thanks for that vid Really found it interesting 👍
HI, I'm attempting to rebuild the DLTX-10 on my John Deere B. I think my biggest problem will be removing the brass drill plugs and large brass Float Bearings that hold the float pin in place. The biggest problem is that many of the screw slots are nearly stripped out from previous owner's attempts at carb rebuilding. Any suggestions on getting the plugs out that a screwdriver can't get a good grip on?
Once heated with a mapp gas setup. They will come out. You will need to drill them, maybe. Heat them up just until you see a little bit of blue flame. Robert’s Carburetor has a good video. Well worth the money. Good luck!!!
Farm Boy Trained a new needle and seat for sure, but if thats sticking or bad then its probably a good idea to clean the whole thing and check out anything else that may need replaced
The carburetor didn’t shut off the fuel and partially filled the cylinder. Then the fuel traveled to the crankcase. Always shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl. The float in the carburetor or the needle valve is the cause of the problem. The weight of the fuel in the tank causes the problem.
Thanks, this video is very informative! I would really like to see you do a short video of actually removing a stubborn plug or one with the screwdriver slot stripped out using easy-outs and/or heat.
B C that may be doable! Ill have to remember that when one comes up!
Thanks. Going to be digging into a dltx10 soon. This helps to get an idea of what I might encounter.
How do you know which drill bit go to which passage. I have three: I believe a #40, #50, #52. I was hoping you would have mentioned this.
Good vid !! Well explained I watched it a few times be sure to watch this for a great break down on your old DLTX carbs need to do my old A but struggle getting bits for it in England so will have to do with just a clean for now .
Can you make a detailed step by step video on how to take the carburetor apart and then putting it back together? Please.
mark singer i can do that some time, absolutely!
Nice job on the video
Still seems intimidating
Ir would be helpful if you listed the Carb# There art many DLTX types.
The mapp gas works for the plugs, I followed the Robert’s video.
No longer available I hear. Burns at 5300°F
Would the carburetor on a X530 be about the same? My husband had both knee’s replaced last summer so he hired someone to cut the grass with their own equipment, and our mower didn’t get started or have gas treatment added to it during the winter. After changing the oil and filter, fuel filter plus air filter this spring the mower seemed to be doing great except after about 20 to 30 minutes of running it just stops, and then backfires at times, but it doesn’t backfire every time it stops. It always starts right back up do you think carburetor cleaner would help ? The closest JD dealer is 200 miles one way…the mower has 80 hours on it, and it’s a 2012 X530. I think he’s going to get a new set of plugs and see if that helps, but it runs so good until it just stops which makes things confusing….Oh, and he also said it has stopped more while cutting in the back yard on a incline the front yard is level. He was going to look for help on here, but he works nights and sleeps all day so I thought I would ask….sorry for the book I just wrote, but this was the only way I knew to tell you about it…lol…by the way he called the JD dealer where he bought it, and all they would say was bring it in he just hated driving 200 miles one way for maybe a 30 minute fix, but he may have to. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
Lucy Lee this carb goes on an antique tractor, your x530 will be quite a bit smaller and more modern. by your symptoms I can thing of two things happening: a swollen seat in the carb lowers the float level and starves the engine for fuel, and when on an incline the fuel in the bowl shifts and the engine dies, or under heavy load it sucks up all the gas in the carb before it can replenish it, or its an ignition coil cutting out. however if you can restart it that leads me to believe its more carburetor related. best of luck to you both!
Thank You so much for the information I will tell him what you said.
Pipe stem cleaners with carb cleaner work great on passages also.
Its a good idea unless there's a lot of rust and buildup on the walls of the passage. The proper sized drill bits take the passages back to their original size
How did you get your carb back to clean original cast color?
I run all my carbs through a sand blaster using glass bead and finish cleaning up on a wire wheel
Good job!!
Is the nozzle orientated (clocked) a certain way when putting back in? The one I obtained is really dirty and can not see the orifices, so wanted to make sure after pulling and cleaning. Thanks.
No, it doesnt have to be clocked a certain way
If you don't have a sandblaster can you just take out all the plugs and boil it?
BOB White you can, but you still need to be sure to drill the passages with the special sized drill bits and remove the nozzle to clean it
Jimmy's Tractors alright thanks I got a John Deere B that DEFINITELY would like this. What carborator is that off of looks just like mine but i know they made similar looking ones. How much would a kit and the tools cost? Thanks for that vid Really found it interesting 👍
BOB White If I remember right this one was off of an A.
Tools can be found at Roberts Carburetor. You can easily Google them to find them
BOB White As for a kit? It depends. The place I use is McDonald Carb and Ignition. To me they're the most bang for the buck
HI, I'm attempting to rebuild the DLTX-10 on my John Deere B. I think my biggest problem will be removing the brass drill plugs and large brass Float Bearings that hold the float pin in place. The biggest problem is that many of the screw slots are nearly stripped out from previous owner's attempts at carb rebuilding. Any suggestions on getting the plugs out that a screwdriver can't get a good grip on?
B C heat and a small easy out works for me. If not, they may have to be drilled out
Once heated with a mapp gas setup. They will come out. You will need to drill them, maybe. Heat them up just until you see a little bit of blue flame. Robert’s Carburetor has a good video. Well worth the money. Good luck!!!
Would bad Carburetor cause gas in the oil? Trying to begin getting Grandpa's Model A running again! Great video Thanks
Farm Boy Trained usually that would mean the needle and seat is seeping by, allowing fuel to flow into the carb, then to the engine
Thanks so a Carb rebuild should fix?
Farm Boy Trained a new needle and seat for sure, but if thats sticking or bad then its probably a good idea to clean the whole thing and check out anything else that may need replaced
The carburetor didn’t shut off the fuel and partially filled the cylinder. Then the fuel traveled to the crankcase. Always shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl. The float in the carburetor or the needle valve is the cause of the problem. The weight of the fuel in the tank causes the problem.
If the passages have rusted, drill bits are the only answer.
It's cast iron.
Best route is to use drill bits to be sure.
Hardest thing for me is setting the float
Where can you buy a new or a rebuilt carbeurator for a1943 John Deere B. I have one and the carb is totally junk.
Try New Paris Tractor Parts in New Paris, Indiana
Nice
Do the lil holes in the nozzle have to be facing a certain direction when reinstalling?
Just now seeing this commemt I apologize. No, it doesn't matter which way they face.
No