Hi Stefan, In your video you stated that you didn't have the means to de-magnetize, but you do have the means. Any mains power transformer is a demagnetizer. Just make sure the unit is in a safe state before powering up. All you have to do is to wipe the parallel or other magnetized piece across the metal lamination s of the transformer whilst powered up and the 60/60 cycle field will soon remove all traces of static magnetism. Easy peasy. I always enjoy your videos as they always seem to work outside of the box meaning that there is a lot of inginuity and thought gone into your projects. Regards MoK
Excellent tool holder Stefan. I use that size of insert and over many years have found them to be a very good size for the Myford lathe. Your use of the usually unused cutting edges has inspired me to try and do something similar one day.
Great Project! Good close ups with the new camera. I've taken to cutting up flexible packing foam to support my parallels. It's free, has a large compression range, completely prevents chips for getting below the parallels or into the vise and stays put when you brush or blow off the chips.
3.5 purpose tool 1) turning 2) facing 3a) chamfering O.D. 3b) chamfering I.D. (albeit not 45 degrees) Nice work. I like the thoroughness of your presentations. I have to admit to chuckling when the holding spring fell into the middle of the vice. You just said "oops" and moved on. I'm so glad I subscribed.
For anyone else reading this years later, a simple trick to chamfer the ID at the same angle would be to run the lathe in reverse and cut on the far side.
Stephan, I really enjoy your insight & purity of knowledge in the Machining trade, been in this trade 49 yrs & truly Love this trade, You have a wonderful view of machining, keep up your view!!!
Splendid toolholder! I must make some of my own but I do not have a pantograph. I guess I'll have to do it all on the mill but I'll figure it out. Your tips and tricks are wonderful and your videography is perfect. Thanx for sharing and please keep the videos coming.
Thank you! No reason you could not do it on a milling machine, swinging the vice around to the needed angles (Or better, clamp a vice ontop of a rotary table).
Excellent! Good to see how use use the spring steel to hold the parallels. I will be making up some as well. Thank you for sharing all this really good stuff.
I must make me a clamp like yours for the mill spindle nose and mount my mini Noga that way. Optically the camera seems extremely good - perhaps sound had some AGC break-up at one small point milling the phenolic, otherwise fine. Your pantograph set-up is ideal for this project - amazing that tiny carbide end mill survives! More very nice work again Stefan... your usual precision.:)
+ChrisB257 I think Tom Lipton has a setup like that, with the Mini-Noga arm on a genuine Indicol holder. Yeah, I like the camera very much, but as I said it will stay secondary camera when I want to do multiple shots at the same time. Thank you for watching and commenting :)
Hi Stefan, Really nice work as always. I was wondering if you were going to cut a taper on the edges of the pocket the same as the angles of the tip, but I guess it doesn't really matter as long as the tip is rigid in the holder, which is going to happen with the 0.1mm offset.
I have learned a new application of force. The "nice percussive hello". Much better than the "HEY, TAKE THAT !!"for this job. lol Thank you, Stefan, for another great video.
Nice tool holders Stefan! :) Do you think you could add one more relief behind the insert, so that you can cut inside chamfers? Or would that compromise the stiffness of the holder? That would make it a 4x way tool! :)
I believe Tormach has a 5* rotated CCMT holder in 1/2" shank? I know because I bought it by mistake and just realized its value! If I remember right it came from little machine shop.
+outsidescrewball Thank you, yes, I realy enjoy the engraving machine, I wish I had one that works 3 dimensional like the one your budy demonstrated on video, but they take up pretty much space.
Hi Stefan, wonderful video and a very nice tool. Thanks! Quick question - I hadn't seen that smaller chuck on your lathe before; it looks similar to a little Unimat chuck. Did you adapt one to your lathe or is it something made by Optimum? Happy New Year!! Bob
+Bick1027 DE Thats a small emco or unimat chuck, I use it mostly for small modell parts, as it holds parts as thin as 0,5mm. When I tested the toolholders that was the chuck I had mounted on the lathe so I used it :)
I find Iscar mill tooling is inferior to the Seco and Sandvik offerings. It seems Iscar are constantly introducing gimmick features into their products and then dumping them from the lineup. One product Iscar market but do not make I can highly recommend is the ITS modular boring head. Very rigid and accurate but probably a little large for the stuff you are doing.
Hey Stefan, Love your test indicator clamp at 9:18. Is there a build video or drawings or such available? I've seen somewhere in another video you take it apart to show the internal tapered shanks, but I can't find it at the moment.
Thank you very much. I do not have a mill, but I just bought a Cazaneuve 575x2000 lathe So far I have broken 6 inserts trying to master the controls. I have not done any turning for over 30 years. The machine I did most of my work on was a Dean Smith Grace which was quite modern. And every control just fell naturally to the hand. Whereabouts in Germany are you? I spend a lot of time in Germany myself. You can buy anything there. I get most of my tooling from ebay. It is made in China The lathe which is old. Came with tooling boring bars and holders of high-quality
Thank you for your time and information. I like the style and content of your many videos. Regarding the insert tool holder: what are your thoughts on double-end insert holders? Many of us have the Aloris type tool posts that have two faces for the tool holders. With a double-end insert holder, you can change the approach 90 degrees by just changing to the other face of of the tool post. This occurred to me when I saw you cut off the lengths of raw stock! Too late then!
just for future knowledge, I find the emergency tent, that we trow up as reliable spring steel, I saved one, My Nabber 's kids Throw away. works great. Les England gives us some feedback on that tool post. you using, In detail. I'm interested in the design.
nice video, thanks. 2 questions: a) You milled the pocket with vertical walls, correct? The insert has a relief angle on its edges, right? Should the pocket walls not have the same angle? Do the commercial holders also have vertical walls? b) Why do you heat treat the holder for toughness and not use cold rolled mild steel? I understand that you take mild steel for the shanks of your brazed on carbide tools. And mild steel is tough not brittle.
+rol eic Thank you :) a) Some of the commercial holders have straight walls, some have sloped walls - When I do my next run of them I will grind a 7° single lip cutter b) Just for general resistance against dings and nicks
I see. I gather you seem to consider the brazed-on-carbide-tools kind of disposable when ground down while the insert holders are there to last. BTW I liked your TPG-project and hope it will find some application soon again :-)
+Dinkys Workshop I have no idea ;) I shot this segment a few weeks ago and right now, while I drink my first coffee of the day, I have no injuries, cuts or bruises on my hands, very uncommon.
At 14:53 you say you are using tool steel, which as I understand it is usually HSS in the UK. Yet at the end of the video you say you have hardened the tool holders. Could you clarify which steel you are machining the toolholders from originally? Would mild steel be OK for the toolholders if you weren't concerned about them getting dinged over time in the workshop?
Tool steel is not automaticaly HSS - HSS is just one form of toolsteel, that comes generaly in a hardened form. What I used was 1.2767 (X45CrNiMo4) - It comes in a soft, machinable condition. Yes, mild steel would be ok, but they will get messed up over time. Stabilty (Stiffness) wise there is no difference.
How much Stefan ,I use these inserts all the time but I don't have a vertical mill only a horizontal Centec2 which isn't fast enough (1,200 rpm) for small end mills . Your videos are a fantastic mixture of skill predominantly and humour 😋keep up the good work sir .
You could rotate the insert at 90 degrees and use the wider edge for turning rather than facing. Allows you to use the inserts that are worn on the 2 other edges
Hi Stefan, I just watched your video of the 5 tool holders you made for the CCMT carbide tool bits. (Some time back I see). Very good job, well done. What material did you make them with? At some point in the beginning of your video, I was sure I heard you mention that the material was cold rolled, and that hardening was not needed. Then at the end you hardened them anyway. I am asking because I don't know much about what types of materials are suitable for hardening?
I used a toolsteel (ISO 1.2767, which is ANSI 6F7, a bit like D2) - It would be tough enough by itself without hardening, but hardening makes it just more resistant to tear and wear.
Hi Stefan, another example of fine German tool production, thanks for sharing. Just one question if i may, what was the grade of steel used for making your tool holders? Cheers, Peter.
very nice job . you didn't mention but i assume your inserts are positive rake. also , is there a need to heat treat the tool holder? what level of hardness do you shoot for?
+larry sperling The work just fine when left soft, but hardened they dont get dinged up in general shop use :) And yes, the ccmt are positive inserts so you dont need to tilt them. Hardness should be somewhat about 50...55Hrc.
Very nice video, Stefan! Lots of great tips and preferences presented in an easy to understand and follow format. Nice project as well, useful tools... BTW, I appreciate you being candid with your opinions. There is too much political correctness in our world.
+Bob Korves Thank you Bob, Somethimes I am not sure about the format, if I talk to much, show to much or to little machining and so on, but in the end, it seems to work out :)
+Stefan Gotteswinter Don't over analyze yourself. You are doing just fine the way you are. The changes you have made have been for the better, just keep the videos coming!
Hi Stefan, Very fine job on your tool holder, I expect in a half an hour they will be listed on EBAY, with free shipping from CHINA. BTW, explain the chuck, is this a new acquisition? P.S. I like the old camera better, the beginning of this video seemed out of focus and shallow depth of field.
+Robert Klein An even if chinese would copy it, mine would still be nicer ;) I agree on the camera, my Sony Camcorder will stay my main camera, and I will use the the Eos700D only as a secondary video camera or when I realy want the shallow depth of field for some more artistic shots :)
Thanks, very inspiring video. The use of the pantograph seems very smart, but I'm too intimidated to try making holders without one. Perhaps you could make some without the pantograph in another video.
Thanks for the spring tip. Never thought about this - but maybe it's because I'm spending 90% of the day on the lathe :) But for the insert holders: Where is the 5° or 7° (just don't know the exact clearance angle) angle for the insert seat or do they work well enough to not care about the angle? But maybe for those not really aggressive cuts you're doing with an 8mm shank tool it just works which is the only thing that really matters :)
The second "C" in "CCMT" indicates a 7° relief angle. (You need a secret decoder ring, which is available online at most of the insert brands' websites.) The 0° (no relief) inserts have an "N" for the second letter. The "N" inserts give you more usable faces, since you can flip the insert over and use the other side, but as you noted they need to get their relief angle from the insert holder.
Hi mate. Firstly all the best to you and yours, naturally. This is just an other high quality made tool from Her Gotteswinter. I know that these are projects too, but I would like to see you make an other highly complicated Do Dah. A gearbox for the steam engine or so. However thanks for this video. Marcel.
+Marcel Timmers I am right now working on a slightly more complicated project, but its hard to keep the pace with longer video so they stay interesting over a long time, but I will do my best :)
For all the good stuff in this video I most appreciated the steel packing strap parallel spring. I got a delivery after I'd recently got a new guy in and asked if he wanted a foot of strap for his tool box. He looked at me like I was from fekkin mars hehehe
Hi StefanAs usual a very well crafted tool and excellent video. If you make both left hand turning and right hand, with a careful relief grind you have a fly cutter that will utilise the 2 unused edges. Also if you get chance try CCGT inserts easily chipped but superb fine finishes even on tool steel with care. Fly cutting on Aluminium is almost glass like.
Also, are we going to see an insert end mill made? Without the engraving panto? I'm looking for tips on making one in my shop. And if I see someone else do it, I'm less askeered.
Hello Stefan, really enjoyed this video, gives me food for thought and that's always a good thing, I was very interested at 33 mins of the video, the little three jaw chuck design, can you give any details about it ie: was it your design or manufactured outside?, Edmund...........Alberta
I think that chuck was made by or for a small Emco Compact 3 lathe, I got it second hand. Its very usefull for small diameter work, when I cant use a collet.
Thank you Stefan, you are correct, I can't understand when I was looking for a better 3 jaw on the Taig I missed that brand, the 80 mm would have been better for me than the 65 mm Bison I eventually purchased, Edmund...........Alberta
did you make your screw less vice or buy it? I would like to see a series on making a 3" vice. The Home shop Machinist several years ago had one made by Rudy Kouhoupt but I can't find it in my magazine collection. Sorry about Rudys name spelling but spelling isn't my strong suit.
Nice work. I see even some possibility to releive the right corner of the holder head, so you could alsoo make it go into shoulder corners while conventional turning. Cheers.
Stefan, You forgot to include a pricing page so we can see what these excellent tools are going to cost us! :) I very much like how you built in the ability to use 3 sides of the tool. If you can in the future please do a video on parting off. It is the single most difficult action for me to master in my small home machine shop. I have a nice accurate mini lathe that can hold 0.0010", but I feel I almost mangle the poor little thing every time I part off or cut off a piece of work. Thanks, G.
Hi G, Don't know if you have tried this but if you are using the forward turret, try turning your parting tool upside down and run in reverse its a lot more rigid, and get as close to the chuck as you dare, also get you speed up to the max with coolant/oil, and dont use a wide tool, on a mini lathe I would suggest no more than 1mm.
+Kosmos Horology I didnt realy concider selling them, but as soon as I showed them in a german forum, four of them where sold immediately ;) Thank you!
I often wondered if the insert craze is marketing hype compared to need. All machining was done with high speed tool steel and brazed bit tools for years. My only experience in machining was with high speed steel so i never used inserts except on rotor and drum lathes.
+Richard Schmidtendorff Dont think that its a hype, they are essential for mass manufacturing and heavy material removal, but in the homeshop, I am not that sure about it - Thats the reason why I have only one kind of them in the shop (Plus my parting blade inserts).
+Richard Schmidtendorff In industry during the HSS days it was necessary to have one guy sharpening to every 5 machines milling. When they went to carbide in steel they got 4 times the tool life meaning that one guy sharpening could now service 20 machines. When you go to insert tooling you can get rid of that guy and his machine all together. Brazing carbide on and grinding chip breakers and reliefs eats up a bunch of time too, so in production insert toolings slight extra cost more than is offset by the increase in productivity. Taking the human element out of making the tooling also makes more predictable tooling which is good for CNC's as then you can know exactly how long you can run a job on an insert, with hand ground tooling that would be all over the place, and even tooling ground on a cutter grinder can be all over the place too as things like surface finish, the angle and position of the tooling and how hot they got it sharpening all can play a big role in tool life.
Made one over the weekend, not as nice as yours but works all the same I think. I haven't tried turning steel but works a peach on aluminium. Excellent tool holder idea, I wonder why nobody makes these commercially.
Yes, they work well with the right speeds/feeds. They do not cut to a shoulder, but for face milling they are great and I get the inserts for free after the 40 degree tip is used.
+Philip Gossett Still running the prototype, but I am back working on the spindles. Btw, the bearings in the prototype are completely shot, thats the reason for the special sound of it ;)
You always do very nice work and you're a good example for the rest of us! Thanks again for doing these videos! They're very beneficial for both newbies and old timers. :)
Needless to say another excellent video. I like your leaf spring but I think I can go one better. i made some in the shape of a Greek letter Omega out of Beryllium Copper shim. The advantage, as I see it, is that they work over a much greater vice jaw opening, in my case 60 odd mm to virtually nothing. I send one to Keith Fenner's first tool box give away a few years ago but I don't think he realised its use. I do so agree about too many insert shapes in a home shop environment, I try to keep to triangular ones as you get three useful edges. ATB c
One cheap and fast way to demagnetize steel is to hit it with a hammer. The impact discharges the magnetic field. But, in the case of precision parts, pick the surface that you hit wisely...
Really like this oldy I'm shopping for my insert too, I really like the wohlhaupter insert I'm going for TP on any size I'll need. Good idea why correcting the geometry of the pocket STOLEN!
From 11:00 to 11:30 there is a sound problem - I only bring this up to inform you, not to be a pest. As a keen viewer of all your content, I know what a perfectionist you are...
Hi Stefan, In your video you stated that you didn't have the means to de-magnetize, but you do have the means. Any mains power transformer is a demagnetizer. Just make sure the unit is in a safe state before powering up. All you have to do is to wipe the parallel or other magnetized piece across the metal lamination s of the transformer whilst powered up and the 60/60 cycle field will soon remove all traces of static magnetism. Easy peasy. I always enjoy your videos as they always seem to work outside of the box meaning that there is a lot of inginuity and thought gone into your projects.
Regards MoK
Cheers for the tip, will give it a go.
Excellent tool holder Stefan. I use that size of insert and over many years have found them to be a very good size for the Myford lathe. Your use of the usually unused cutting edges has inspired me to try and do something similar one day.
Great Project! Good close ups with the new camera. I've taken to cutting up flexible packing foam to support my parallels. It's free, has a large compression range, completely prevents chips for getting below the parallels or into the vise and stays put when you brush or blow off the chips.
3.5 purpose tool
1) turning
2) facing
3a) chamfering O.D.
3b) chamfering I.D. (albeit not 45 degrees)
Nice work. I like the thoroughness of your presentations. I have to admit to chuckling when the holding spring fell into the middle of the vice. You just said "oops" and moved on. I'm so glad I subscribed.
For anyone else reading this years later, a simple trick to chamfer the ID at the same angle would be to run the lathe in reverse and cut on the far side.
@@cavemaneca If you don't have a screw on chuck like mine. But yeah, that's a great idea.
@@ExtantFrodo2 I've actually never had a lathe with a screw on chuck, so I didn't really even think of that.
This is great! I have a bunch of CCMT tooling but nothing for a "proper" chamfer. You have inspired me.
Stephan, I really enjoy your insight & purity of knowledge in the Machining trade, been in this trade 49 yrs & truly Love this trade, You have a wonderful view of machining, keep up your view!!!
Steel banding straps that are used to hold material onto pallets make fairly good springs as well.
Splendid toolholder! I must make some of my own but I do not have a pantograph. I guess I'll have to do it all on the mill but I'll figure it out. Your tips and tricks are wonderful and your videography is perfect. Thanx for sharing and please keep the videos coming.
Thank you!
No reason you could not do it on a milling machine, swinging the vice around to the needed angles (Or better, clamp a vice ontop of a rotary table).
The pantograph is very nice luxury. As soon as i saw it i was like i want one lol.
One tip.. face, turn and chamfer.. love it.
Thanks Stefan
Excellent! Good to see how use use the spring steel to hold the parallels. I will be making up some as well. Thank you for sharing all this really good stuff.
I must make me a clamp like yours for the mill spindle nose and mount my mini Noga that way.
Optically the camera seems extremely good - perhaps sound had some AGC break-up at one small point milling the phenolic, otherwise fine.
Your pantograph set-up is ideal for this project - amazing that tiny carbide end mill survives!
More very nice work again Stefan... your usual precision.:)
+ChrisB257 I think Tom Lipton has a setup like that, with the Mini-Noga arm on a genuine Indicol holder.
Yeah, I like the camera very much, but as I said it will stay secondary camera when I want to do multiple shots at the same time. Thank you for watching and commenting :)
Hi Stefan, Really nice work as always. I was wondering if you were going to cut a taper on the edges of the pocket the same as the angles of the tip, but I guess it doesn't really matter as long as the tip is rigid in the holder, which is going to happen with the 0.1mm offset.
I learn so many little tricks from you . This is an awesome video and thanks for all the teaching !!
I have learned a new application of force. The "nice percussive hello". Much better than the "HEY, TAKE THAT !!"for this job. lol
Thank you, Stefan, for another great video.
+Jerry Long percussive maintenance is another good one. Heard Dave Jones / EEVBlog use that one quite often :D
Brilliant, learnt so many tips in this video, many thanks.
Better than a bought holder.
Nice tool holders Stefan! :) Do you think you could add one more relief behind the insert, so that you can cut inside chamfers? Or would that compromise the stiffness of the holder? That would make it a 4x way tool! :)
+mictho100 No problems with stiffness, but the inserts only have 7° relief, so they would rub when you try to chamfer internal edges :)
I believe Tormach has a 5* rotated CCMT holder in 1/2" shank? I know because I bought it by mistake and just realized its value! If I remember right it came from little machine shop.
Nice build...the pantograph is such a great useful tool
+outsidescrewball Thank you, yes, I realy enjoy the engraving machine, I wish I had one that works 3 dimensional like the one your budy demonstrated on video, but they take up pretty much space.
I like these types of videos. Great Job!
+dlstanf2 Thank you!
Hi Stefan, wonderful video and a very nice tool. Thanks! Quick question - I hadn't seen that smaller chuck on your lathe before; it looks similar to a little Unimat chuck. Did you adapt one to your lathe or is it something made by Optimum? Happy New Year!! Bob
+Bick1027 DE Thats a small emco or unimat chuck, I use it mostly for small modell parts, as it holds parts as thin as 0,5mm. When I tested the toolholders that was the chuck I had mounted on the lathe so I used it :)
I have never seen a rougher like that before, thanks for sharing that!
+zomie1 I have neither - And as its not as good as a pure roughing endmill it does a real nice job :)
I find Iscar mill tooling is inferior to the Seco and Sandvik offerings. It seems Iscar are constantly introducing gimmick features into their products and then dumping them from the lineup. One product Iscar market but do not make I can highly recommend is the ITS modular boring head. Very rigid and accurate but probably a little large for the stuff you are doing.
Nice! Do you have a left hand internal threading bar for the lathe? If so, what insert do you like for that application?
Great idea ! I use those ccmt's also, and indeed it's wasted when two sides are used.. great video
Hey Stefan,
Love your test indicator clamp at 9:18. Is there a build video or drawings or such available?
I've seen somewhere in another video you take it apart to show the internal tapered shanks, but I can't find it at the moment.
Ha! found it. th-cam.com/video/Ot8wPGQW3JI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much. I do not have a mill, but I just bought a Cazaneuve 575x2000 lathe
So far I have broken 6 inserts trying to master the controls. I have not done any turning for over 30 years.
The machine I did most of my work on was a Dean Smith Grace which was quite modern. And every control just fell naturally to the hand.
Whereabouts in Germany are you? I spend a lot of time in Germany myself. You can buy anything there. I get most of my tooling from ebay. It is made in China The lathe which is old. Came with tooling boring bars and holders of high-quality
I certainly agree there is a market for your holder. Well done
Thank you for your time and information. I like the style and content of your many videos.
Regarding the insert tool holder: what are your thoughts on double-end insert holders? Many of us have the Aloris type tool posts that have two faces for the tool holders. With a double-end insert holder, you can change the approach 90 degrees by just changing to the other face of of the tool post. This occurred to me when I saw you cut off the lengths of raw stock! Too late then!
Absolutely awesome and I have watched this one several times and will several more times!
just for future knowledge, I find the emergency tent, that we trow up as reliable spring steel, I saved one, My Nabber 's kids Throw away. works great. Les England gives us some feedback on that tool post. you using, In detail. I'm interested in the design.
What a Great Workshop You Have,
nice video, thanks. 2 questions:
a) You milled the pocket with vertical walls, correct? The insert has a relief angle on its edges, right? Should the pocket walls not have the same angle? Do the commercial holders also have vertical walls?
b) Why do you heat treat the holder for toughness and not use cold rolled mild steel? I understand that you take mild steel for the shanks of your brazed on carbide tools. And mild steel is tough not brittle.
+rol eic Thank you :)
a) Some of the commercial holders have straight walls, some have sloped walls - When I do my next run of them I will grind a 7° single lip cutter
b) Just for general resistance against dings and nicks
I see. I gather you seem to consider the brazed-on-carbide-tools kind of disposable when ground down while the insert holders are there to last.
BTW I liked your TPG-project and hope it will find some application soon again :-)
Great video as always. What happened to your hand?
+Dinkys Workshop I have no idea ;) I shot this segment a few weeks ago and right now, while I drink my first coffee of the day, I have no injuries, cuts or bruises on my hands, very uncommon.
I never thought to add this. I use 'banding' steel I get for free from shipping dept. Very nice work Stefan!
At 14:53 you say you are using tool steel, which as I understand it is usually HSS in the UK. Yet at the end of the video you say you have hardened the tool holders. Could you clarify which steel you are machining the toolholders from originally? Would mild steel be OK for the toolholders if you weren't concerned about them getting dinged over time in the workshop?
Tool steel is not automaticaly HSS - HSS is just one form of toolsteel, that comes generaly in a hardened form.
What I used was 1.2767 (X45CrNiMo4) - It comes in a soft, machinable condition.
Yes, mild steel would be ok, but they will get messed up over time. Stabilty (Stiffness) wise there is no difference.
Thanks for the information Stefan (and the videos).
How much Stefan ,I use these inserts all the time but I don't have a vertical mill only a horizontal Centec2 which isn't fast enough (1,200 rpm) for small end mills .
Your videos are a fantastic mixture of skill predominantly and humour 😋keep up the good work sir .
You could rotate the insert at 90 degrees and use the wider edge for turning rather than facing. Allows you to use the inserts that are worn on the 2 other edges
Very nice work Stefan. What kind of heat treat oven is that?
+LOREN LIEDER Its a small Efco 150 oven, still without any temperature control...When I finaly order a controller I will do a short video on it :)
+LOREN LIEDER Efco 110 it is.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Ok sounds good we will be waiting for a video on the controller.
Hi Stefan, I just watched your video of the 5 tool holders you made for the CCMT carbide tool bits. (Some time back I see). Very good job, well done. What material did you make them with? At some point in the beginning of your video, I was sure I heard you mention that the material was cold rolled, and that hardening was not needed. Then at the end you hardened them anyway. I am asking because I don't know much about what types of materials are suitable for hardening?
I used a toolsteel (ISO 1.2767, which is ANSI 6F7, a bit like D2) - It would be tough enough by itself without hardening, but hardening makes it just more resistant to tear and wear.
cool project. I'm thinking about similar, made from 2 peaces - top - for holding ccmt, and bottom as base, welded together. Must be easier to do.
Hi Stefan, another example of fine German tool production, thanks for sharing. Just one question if i may, what was the grade of steel used for making your tool holders?
Cheers, Peter.
very nice job . you didn't mention but i assume your inserts are positive rake. also , is there a need to heat treat the tool holder? what level of hardness do you shoot for?
+larry sperling I think he made his to about 50 Rockwell
+larry sperling The work just fine when left soft, but hardened they dont get dinged up in general shop use :) And yes, the ccmt are positive inserts so you dont need to tilt them. Hardness should be somewhat about 50...55Hrc.
ccmt has a 7 degree clearance angle. if this angle won't be machined on holder seat side walls then cutter rigidity could be compromised.
Very nice video, Stefan! Lots of great tips and preferences presented in an easy to understand and follow format. Nice project as well, useful tools... BTW, I appreciate you being candid with your opinions. There is too much political correctness in our world.
+Bob Korves Thank you Bob, Somethimes I am not sure about the format, if I talk to much, show to much or to little machining and so on, but in the end, it seems to work out :)
+Stefan Gotteswinter Don't over analyze yourself. You are doing just fine the way you are. The changes you have made have been for the better, just keep the videos coming!
Hi Stefan, Very fine job on your tool holder, I expect in a half an hour they will be listed on EBAY, with free shipping from CHINA. BTW, explain the chuck, is this a new acquisition? P.S. I like the old camera better, the beginning of this video seemed out of focus and shallow depth of field.
+Robert Klein An even if chinese would copy it, mine would still be nicer ;)
I agree on the camera, my Sony Camcorder will stay my main camera, and I will use the the Eos700D only as a secondary video camera or when I realy want the shallow depth of field for some more artistic shots :)
Thanks, very inspiring video. The use of the pantograph seems very smart, but I'm too intimidated to try making holders without one. Perhaps you could make some without the pantograph in another video.
Nice work, though you can buy a 45 degree chamfer tool for CCMT (called SCSCR)
I learned that too after I was done ;)
Thanks for the spring tip. Never thought about this - but maybe it's because I'm spending 90% of the day on the lathe :)
But for the insert holders: Where is the 5° or 7° (just don't know the exact clearance angle) angle for the insert seat or do they work well enough to not care about the angle? But maybe for those not really aggressive cuts you're doing with an 8mm shank tool it just works which is the only thing that really matters :)
The second "C" in "CCMT" indicates a 7° relief angle. (You need a secret decoder ring, which is available online at most of the insert brands' websites.) The 0° (no relief) inserts have an "N" for the second letter. The "N" inserts give you more usable faces, since you can flip the insert over and use the other side, but as you noted they need to get their relief angle from the insert holder.
Hi mate. Firstly all the best to you and yours, naturally. This is just an other high quality made tool from Her Gotteswinter. I know that these are projects too, but I would like to see you make an other highly complicated Do Dah. A gearbox for the steam engine or so. However thanks for this video. Marcel.
+Marcel Timmers I am right now working on a slightly more complicated project, but its hard to keep the pace with longer video so they stay interesting over a long time, but I will do my best :)
For all the good stuff in this video I most appreciated the steel packing strap parallel spring. I got a delivery after I'd recently got a new guy in and asked if he wanted a foot of strap for his tool box. He looked at me like I was from fekkin mars hehehe
Hi StefanAs usual a very well crafted tool and excellent video. If you make both left hand turning and right hand, with a careful relief grind you have a fly cutter that will utilise the 2 unused edges. Also if you get chance try CCGT inserts easily chipped but superb fine finishes even on tool steel with care. Fly cutting on Aluminium is almost glass like.
Also, are we going to see an insert end mill made? Without the engraving panto? I'm looking for tips on making one in my shop. And if I see someone else do it, I'm less askeered.
+Dinkys Workshop On the rotary table? I think Randy Richard showed making inserted tooling on a normal milling machine :)
Hi Stefan, great video!
Would have liked to have seen the hardening process.
Hello Stefan, really enjoyed this video, gives me food for thought and that's always a good thing, I was very interested at 33 mins of the video, the little three jaw chuck design, can you give any details about it ie: was it your design or manufactured outside?,
Edmund...........Alberta
I think that chuck was made by or for a small Emco Compact 3 lathe, I got it second hand. Its very usefull for small diameter work, when I cant use a collet.
Thank you Stefan, you are correct, I can't understand when I was looking for a better 3 jaw on the Taig I missed that brand, the 80 mm would have been better for me than the 65 mm Bison I eventually purchased,
Edmund...........Alberta
I couldn't find information about that small key-scroll 3-jaw you have there. Where did you get it, where can I get one, what is the brand?
Uhm, thats a good question, i got it second hand, i have absolutely no information about it :-\
did you make your screw less vice or buy it? I would like to see a series on making a 3" vice. The Home shop Machinist several years ago had one made by Rudy Kouhoupt but I can't find it in my magazine collection. Sorry about Rudys name spelling but spelling isn't my strong suit.
Nope, thats something I buy, they are in very good quality availible for little money.
What kind of milling machine is he using?
Nice work. I see even some possibility to releive the right corner of the holder head, so you could alsoo make it go into shoulder corners while conventional turning. Cheers.
+Flip de boer I thought about that, but the inserts only have 7° relief angle, so they would rub a lot when doing internal chamering.
High stefan did you make the vise yourself you use on your mill and if is there a video, thanks in advance
Stefan, You forgot to include a pricing page so we can see what these excellent tools are going to cost us! :) I very much like how you built in the ability to use 3 sides of the tool.
If you can in the future please do a video on parting off. It is the single most difficult action for me to master in my small home machine shop. I have a nice accurate mini lathe that can hold 0.0010", but I feel I almost mangle the poor little thing every time I part off or cut off a piece of work. Thanks, G.
Hi G, Don't know if you have tried this but if you are using the forward turret, try turning your parting tool upside down and run in reverse its a lot more rigid, and get as close to the chuck as you dare, also get you speed up to the max with coolant/oil, and dont use a wide tool, on a mini lathe I would suggest no more than 1mm.
Hi Stefan, I like the indicator holder you made, do you have a drawing for it? Kind reards, Jan from the Netherlands
Stefan, what is the make or brand of your tool maker's vice? The one that uses the hex key to tighten/loosen rather than the one with the handle.
Cool use of the pantograph for this type of work.
Hi Stefan, great video, as ever! Would you consider selling one of them?
+Kosmos Horology I didnt realy concider selling them, but as soon as I showed them in a german forum, four of them where sold immediately ;)
Thank you!
06 is not the length of the side, it's the diameter of the inscribed circle.
Very nicely made. Now I want to get a pantograph machine!
I often wondered if the insert craze is marketing hype compared to need. All machining was done with high speed tool steel and brazed bit tools for years. My only experience in machining was with high speed steel so i never used inserts except on rotor and drum lathes.
+Richard Schmidtendorff Dont think that its a hype, they are essential for mass manufacturing and heavy material removal, but in the homeshop, I am not that sure about it - Thats the reason why I have only one kind of them in the shop (Plus my parting blade inserts).
Ah ok nobody really talks about the advantages or disadvantages.
+Richard Schmidtendorff In industry during the HSS days it was necessary to have one guy sharpening to every 5 machines milling. When they went to carbide in steel they got 4 times the tool life meaning that one guy sharpening could now service 20 machines. When you go to insert tooling you can get rid of that guy and his machine all together. Brazing carbide on and grinding chip breakers and reliefs eats up a bunch of time too, so in production insert toolings slight extra cost more than is offset by the increase in productivity. Taking the human element out of making the tooling also makes more predictable tooling which is good for CNC's as then you can know exactly how long you can run a job on an insert, with hand ground tooling that would be all over the place, and even tooling ground on a cutter grinder can be all over the place too as things like surface finish, the angle and position of the tooling and how hot they got it sharpening all can play a big role in tool life.
yeah i figured after thinking about it if it came down to quick resharpen by just rotating or swapping and not haveing to reset up.
Very nice work, Stefan.
+DAVID ENGLAND Thank you :)
You selling some Stefan ? :) I just have a small lathe, might try making the whole thing on it, thanks!
Made one over the weekend, not as nice as yours but works all the same I think. I haven't tried turning steel but works a peach on aluminium. Excellent tool holder idea, I wonder why nobody makes these commercially.
Awesome, like usual. Bravo Stefan!
+Apuk Eldar Thank you Apuk :)
Very Nice. Thanks for the video, CJ
nice practial job, great video
+Mert Silliker Thank you!
Nicely done! good education. Thanks Stefan.
AWESOME work man .. Thumbs up ! Enjoyed ..
I created a series of tiny t-nuts for the Sherline. Oh, why did I only learn about the springs between parallels now.
Is there a reason not to do this on the milling machine?
Fantastic something I will enjoy making take care lee
CCMT recycle face mills are sold on ebay. I picked one up a few months ago
Interesting, do they work well?
Yes, they work well with the right speeds/feeds. They do not cut to a shoulder, but for face milling they are great and I get the inserts for free after the 40 degree tip is used.
Thanks! Maybe I will just buy one...or make one :D
please Make one , i would love to see your take on it :)
With a CCMT held straight you should get a 40 degree chamfer vs 45.
eres un genio y me encantan tus vídeos estoy aprendiendo mucho gracias.
Didn't mean to misspell your name, americanie f's, LOVE your works!!!
Do I see that you have completed your spindle project? Or still the prototype spindle?
+Philip Gossett Still running the prototype, but I am back working on the spindles. Btw, the bearings in the prototype are completely shot, thats the reason for the special sound of it ;)
You always do very nice work and you're a good example for the rest of us!
Thanks again for doing these videos! They're very beneficial for both newbies and old timers. :)
Needless to say another excellent video.
I like your leaf spring but I think I can go one better. i made some in the shape of a Greek letter Omega out of Beryllium Copper shim. The advantage, as I see it, is that they work over a much greater vice jaw opening, in my case 60 odd mm to virtually nothing. I send one to Keith Fenner's first tool box give away a few years ago but I don't think he realised its use.
I do so agree about too many insert shapes in a home shop environment, I try to keep to triangular ones as you get three useful edges.
ATB
c
Nice video with lots of good tips and advise. Looking forward to seeing many more in 2016. :-)
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+Richard Freeze Thank you Richard, I will not stop doing this soon :)
Daumen hoch, Stefan!
+Markus Keck Danke, sie haben Post :)
when will you be finishing the mini steam engine
Some say... ;) Right now its not even in my shop, my friend took it with him to an model exhibition and I have yet to get it back.
I purchased an inexpensive electrical demagnetizer and I don't how I could work without it. I use it regularly.
Very nice work!
Thanks for the video’s and your time.
Excellent!
+BasementShopGuy Thank you, Brad! I got your message, will answer soon ;)
One cheap and fast way to demagnetize steel is to hit it with a hammer. The impact discharges the magnetic field. But, in the case of precision parts, pick the surface that you hit wisely...
Really like this oldy I'm shopping for my insert too, I really like the wohlhaupter insert I'm going for TP on any size I'll need. Good idea why correcting the geometry of the pocket STOLEN!
From 11:00 to 11:30 there is a sound problem - I only bring this up to inform you, not to be a pest. As a keen viewer of all your content, I know what a perfectionist you are...
+Ant Mallett Yes, I noticed that already, thank you - That was a issue with the editing software :)
wow, very fine work Bro. I have to admit.....:) Keep it up....:)
only say AMAZING JOB
+maximiliano ortiz Thank you :)
Cold blueing and should looks like commercial one ☝but German🇩🇪
awesome seeing the pantograph making something useful!
its all in the hips......
14: 50 one and a half uses🤔🤓🤓🤓