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Best Base for Pavers | 4 Base Preparation Methods with Different Applications
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2021
- There is no single base preparation method for pavers that will apply to every project. Instead, choosing the right base to install depends on variables that need to be considered on every project. Educating yourself on each of the methods to install pavers will provide you with a toolkit to provide your clients with the best possible end product while helping you stand out from your competition by doing so.
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1) Traditional Base
Best Applications:
- Front Walkways on grade where the driveway has been completed using the same material
- Some Retaining Walls
2) Open Graded Base
Best Applications:
- Raised Patios
- Some Retaining Walls
3) Synthetic Base
Best Applications:
- Any pedestrian traffic project that is on grade and not tying into another pavement.
- Retaining walls and features under 18" in height.
4) Concrete Base for Pavers
Best Applications
- Where existing concrete has already been installed, is in good condition, and we feel confident enough in its integrity to build on top of it. Example: Pool patios and front porches.
As a DIYer for the very first time to do pavers. I totally lost before I watch your video. I have 18 ton 3/4 gravel sit on my drive way and I thought i ordered the wrong stuff after I saw most of the video on youtube useing crush runner. thank you for your video. This answers all my question abou the base for pavers. This is the only video I found so helpful and so detail explaination.
I really appreciate this comment! Thank you, I am glad this video helped.
Great video.. Love the clear advantages you demonstrate of using 1/4-angled stone (or pea gravel) instead of concrete sand, which I'll summarize here: (1) Doesn't have "fines" so there are no fines to washout, creating voids, (2) Doesn't require compaction, (3) Drains better, (4) Can be installed in the rainy conditions.
💯 good summary. But not pea gravel. Pea gravel is round and not angular
@@iamahardscaper right.. is 1/8" pea gravel a suitable alternative if the landscape yard doesn't carry the 1/4-angular, or are there issues with it?
@@larryzdanis5377it doesn’t lock together because it is smooth rather than angular do you won’t have sufficient structural integrity/stability.
@@marvinbernard2566 Good point! Thank you.
The sidewalk project I'm working on is a rework. I did this about 7 or 8 years ago without knowledge. I didn't think I used a proper base material but, after digging down today, it revealed a proper base. I just have to "peel" back the base and place a new Geotextile layer and repeat the base and screen layers. It feels so good to know the proper technique (even though it's still labour intensive. Thanks for all your videos and tips!
👍👍
@@iamahardscaper You must get great satisfaction from seeing your finished projects and knowing that your customers will be so proud of their property!
One of the many reasons why I do what I do 👍
Your videos are very informational and helpful. I wish I could work and learn from you if you were in north Texas, you are very professional and I enjoy watching your videos.
I appreciate that!
Great job! Great tips! Now that’s a Pro! 👍🤩💪
Thank you so much!
Well explained. Thank you
Thank you! 👍
Excellent Video!!!
Thank you!
Excellent information!
Thank you!
Thank you. Very informative.
Glad it helps 👍
Great information!
Thank you!
I do the exact same job in the uk, methods and materials seem very similar terminology is completely different. I also like to use 100mm compacted dry lean concrete as a base for road way or driveway with 30mm sharp(concrete) sand I find you save money on the dig as you take less out and what you put in is incredibly strong. Also I wouldn’t personally install a natural stone patio on anything other than hard standing (concrete) base due to subsidence over time 2-5 years. Good job thoe definitely know your stuff 👍🏻
I’ve had a few people from the UK say the same thing. Slightly different methods because we experience several freeze thaw cycles a year, so we want our base to be more flexible.
@@iamahardscaper absolutely this, climate will affect methods. Great stuff man good to see other pros doing it right 👍🏻
Ty!! Great work
Thank you!
This video was so great and helped a lot. We are redoing all the landscaping for our backyard and we just wanted to pave the whole yard and leave a small green space for our waste bins. I was wondering which method you think would be best to pave the whole yard for cheap? Originally we were going to do the traditional way but I would like to know what you think.
A traditional or open graded base will be the least expensive but require more time. A synthetic base will be more expensive but save time.
Wow amazing video thank you so much
Thank you!
Awesome. Subscribed.
Thank you!
I’ve sold a lot of paver patios on concrete float pads. The ultimate base for pavers in my opinion
I know a few that do this as well. Where are you located that you do this as a primary install?
@@iamahardscaper I’m from southeast CT. Yes primary install. 2’ on center 1/2 “ rebar grid. To be honest though I haven’t done one in years. I was building pools at the time. Gotta have the right customer cause they are pricey.
Great application for pool installs for sure 👍
May as well use real clay brick pavers on concrete pads. Mortared of course.
This was a great video on explaining the different methods and the pros and cons of each.
One question, would the paver base panel method support a hot tub sitting on top of the pavers?
I don’t think so, but add up the weight of the hot tub and the square inches. Paver base panels can hold 144 lbs / 65 kg per square inch.
Thank you so much for you content that just keeps on giving!!
My question is how close to a wood basement can you compact the soil? We removed our rotting deck and realized we had to dig out the basment walls to seal them. I would like to replace it with a patio but the soil around the house is settling. It's clay based soil, proper drainage was put it.
the basement is wooden? I wouldn't know how to answer that to be honest. I would maybe build a relief wall along the basement to take any pressure off of it.
Great Channel. Question I had a bunch of dirt removed but these guys put down the QP without fabric underneath. Can i just compact down the QP(stone) and lay fabric on top or should i just rake everything out and lay fabric and then relay the stone.? I plan on using paver panels, just wondering if it matters.
Make sure you have an appropriate piece of equipment to compact it into the subsoil. Then fabric, your bedding layer, then panels.
Thank you for the video. The installer I spoke to suggested pouring concrete for the driveway and backyard patio. Everywhere I looked suggested using gravel and sand. Is it common practice to pour concrete as base for laying pavers? Thank you.
Yes some contractors prefer to do that. We actually have a video on concrete overlays
Do you have any videos that talk about design of a patio, or that deals with bullnose pavers for steps?
No videos like that just yet, but in the near future. In terms of the most basic design concept of a patio, you want a border stone that is typically a darker contrast to the remainder of the patio. Check out the How to Hardscape Instagram page for some design inspiration 👍
Great video! Are you build Steps on top of synthetic alligator paver base?
Thank you! Yes, up to 18” in height
Nice job only one question though that synthetic base material doesn't seem like it's a sustainable choice not sure I would skimp on a proper subbase as it's served me well for years 👍, epic landscaping work by the way very skilled
Appreciate that! Definitely stick with what works. I love the synthetic base in the right scenarios though. We have a 5 year old project and it looks incredible with Toronto winters
Great video. Do you have any cross sections of how you apply the layers? I am specifically referring to after excavation. For example doing a driveway and walkway with clay soil. Excavate to the clay layer, then do you apply the non woven geotextile, then the sub base, then the hpb then the pavers???? I tried my best to follow along but a diagram of the layers would be great, especially for a driveway application with the non woven and the grid textile you were using. I didn't quite understand where you put each of the layers of geotextile (woven and the grid). Thank you I look forward to your reply.
Install geotextile, base, HPB, pavers. Use a layer of biaxial geogrid in the middle of your base or lower.
I believe we have some cross sections on our article for this video here:
howtohardscape.com/best-base-for-pavers/
Best video thus far to learn base layers! Of the options you went over can you suggest which approach would be recommended for a California (little rain) travel trailer paver parking pad for a trailer weighing 3,000 LBS that will be parked in relatively the same position for long durations? Thanks for any suggestions!
Thank you! Likely you are looking at a dense graded base. You can add geogrid to that as well to help stabilize it.
@@iamahardscaper Thanks for the quick response!
I am redoing pavers around my pool After removing the pavers do I need to dig out all the previous paver base or can I just relevel. What paver base would you recommend for around a pool. would the synthetic base be ok. Thank you for your time/
If you are using synthetic base, I would remove the bedding layer which is typically sand, compact the existing base, install the geotextile, re-screed a bedding layer, and lay the synthetic base. Yeah synthetic base is great for pool patios.
Love your channel and the approach toward educating viewers.
Question: what would be your recommendation for side yard (hidden, 6 feet between foundation and privacy wood fence), in freeze thaw zone. Probably used for small storage etc. There's about a 6 inch slope over the 6 feet). The slope is throwing me off. On the one hand you want to slope away from foundation. On the other, you'd like to be fairly level for the paver walkway.
Would love a video on how to deal with grades in different areas of hom and approaches for each.
Keep up awesome content.
in dealing with grades, it is sprinkled throughout various videos. But covered a lot in this video: th-cam.com/video/wymJ-zFZkRc/w-d-xo.html
We do 1/8" per foot slope to 1/4" per foot slope depending on a few conditions. Start at either end and calculate, and adjust if necessary, but that usually means building up one area or another to accommodate.
Would a traditional base be suitable in Arizona where we have monsoons 3 months out of the year? I can only seem to find material with fines in my area
I would say if you can’t find material without fines, then that is the only thing used in your area and if so then that is the way to go. I do know that open grade bases have not quite made it’s way down south the same way it is up in the north.
We are redoing a paver patio. Each of the pavers are just under 6” square. Using this smaller paver will it work on a HPB screeded base?
Yup 👍
Great video, but if I may ask a question. I am a DIYer, and am putting in a flag stone walkway next to my garage. I was going to use stone dust for my base, but am having second thoughts now. Here in NC we have clay soil, and the typical flag stone used here is called Crab Orchard (it will be 2" thick). I will use a geotextile fabric next to the ground, but what sort of base should I use? (using cement I think is beyond my capabilities). Thank you for any advice!
I would use either open graded or a traditional base. We have videos on both if you go to our channel page and search Open Graded Base.
Have ya every installed rubber pavers ? Not the rubber tile style but the dog bone style rubber blocks ? What can I do to help make them last ? They are going in front of horse stalls
I actually have not. I’d assume the installation process is similar. But I would reach out to the manufacturer to discuss it with them.
My yard is sloped and gonna do the open grade. Do you grade the subsoil at the pitch you need? Or just get it flat and use the pavers and bedding yo set the grade?
The subsoil should match the same pitch as your pavers. any water that makes its way to the subsoil should pitch away from any foundation.
Thanks for the video. Quick question: for new construction house yard covered with mulch (on native soil), do you recommend removing it? Or can I just compact it and add the bedding layer and synthetic base panels?
Remove anything organic that will decompose over time. Gotta always get down to native soil
@@iamahardscapergot it. thanks for the quick reply.
Is it possible that you have a guide that refers to which method to use for the particular ground conditions that the pavers will be going over. I think it would help out your video a lot and take away some of the mystery.
Truly, an awesome video, though I really appreciate it.
Hey thanks a lot! Probably something I could put together, there is also a link to a blog post for the same video in the description.
Can you combine the open graded base with the synthetic panels? In other words, use #57 gravel and lay the panels on top?
There would be no point, just a lot of added cost. But if you did, you would still need the bedding layer of 1/4" clean angular crushed on top of the 57s.
@@iamahardscaper I live in a townhouse so moving material from the front of the house to the back is arduous to say the least. There's no getting around having to put down the #57 but if I could lessen the total amount of gravel needed, I would. The other obstacles are the project is in a drainage area and it's double-sloped. The only option I see is to make a raised patio with multiple levels and it's proving challenging. Thanks for the reply.
Awesome video, thank you for all the details. A follow up question: For the traditional base, is there a reason that concrete sand is used beneath the pavers rather than polymeric sand? Would it be okay to use polymeric sand for the 1" base beneath the pavers? Thanks!
The concrete sand is for drainage. If you used poly, water would not be able to drain through
Polymeric sand is used for the joints, not for the base. Polymeric sand is swept in dry, then misted with water. Once cured, it hardens like a spongy concrete. If you use polymeric sand as a base, not only would it not work well but it would also increase the cost of your screed by literally 100x. A bag of poly is $25 and a yard of most aggregates is about $50-100
I can’t done any do the open grade stuff in montana. Neither gravel company in town as heard of #57 stone. And don’t have 1-4 or 3/8 crushed pea stone. They just sell 3/4 crushed bedding rock. Wish has a lot of rounds in it compared to you pictures and the small stuff is same, some crushed but still lots of rounds. I don’t feel like what I got is going to compact the same way as the all jagged stuff
Yeah there are some regions that are unable to access this stone.
I have heard of some hardscapers using HBP for both the base and bedding. What are your thoughts on this approach?
It doesn’t have the bearing capacity to be the entire base.
You are amazing, and all of your content is so incredibly helpful!
Quick question, I've been excavating for a small patio, and intend on using paver base panels because it works best for my townhome and the space we have. I've gotten to the subsoil, though because of weeds that had been growing, as I have dug those out, my subsoil is quite uneven. Can I compact this, despite the unevenness, and the screeding process will even it out, or should I use a bag or so of say limestone, compact that in to make more of an even surface, and then go ahead with my geotextile and screeding?
Also, I definitely would need to get all the weeds out right? :P
Thank you again for all of your incredible insight!
ideally yes, and that you are getting down to the subsoil and do not have any organic soils that have not been excavated. Try to get it as even as possible, then yes you can use some gravel and compact that into it to help. But I would rather have it more or less where i want it to be before that.
@@iamahardscaper I am pretty much at the clay and some of these roots have really gotten down here. Doing my best to pull them out and keep the subsoil even. As soon as that's done, we shall start compacting. Thanks again for all your help - I feel so much more comfortable doing this DIY project with your content and help!
Glad it helps!
Great video thanks for the info!
Thank you for watching!
Where do you get the HPB? Everywhere I look in East Bay Area, CA - no one carries, just 1/4 inch with fines
May be pretty difficult to find it in California.
Is the synthetic base you are using Allisnce’s gator base?
Yes in these videos. But I will be using TechniSeal's EZ base this year
Hi, which is one better bedding material for Gator based application, HPB or class 9 clear limestone? Thank you !
I believe class 9 is HPB or 1/4” clean chip. It’s just called something different everywhere
@@iamahardscaper Thanks!! I thought same
With a 6 inch patio slab lay we have approximately 4.5in of hpb, landscaper roll and 24x24 inch pavers that are 1.5in thick. Would you also recommend the geotextile or geogrid as well?
Geotextile for sure
@@iamahardscaper thanks! And with the landscaper fabric would you lay the geotextile on the bottom before the hpb and then maybe the landscapers fabric on the top before the slabs get put on?
It is just meant to be at the bottom of the base to separate from the subsoil.
@@iamahardscaper ok thanks!
What type of base system would be best in your opinion if a patio is built below a 3-4 feet high retaining wall?
I would use whatever base material the retaining wall was built on especially if there is no fabric. Or a synthetic base
@@iamahardscaper thank you 🙏🏼
So if I wanted to put pavers over an existing concrete slab that is in good condition and has a good pitch. I can just use that roll of base fabric and some concrete sand and then pavers would be most effective for this specific situation?
Yes 👍
@@iamahardscaper perfect thank you sir. You have any thoughts or opinions on using travertine pavers vs concrete? Or is it all personal preference. I was looking at travertine because i live in a hot area and supposedly it stays cooler than some other materials.
Personal preference in terms of aesthetics. Travertine is beautiful in my opinion, but have yet to use it on a project.
Hi, great channel and excellent overview, THANK-YOU!! A quick question if I may?
Have a 16' x 12' existing paver patio. I did it 25 years ago, several inches of 3/4" then several inches of limestone screenings compacted every few inches. It was screeded with sand.
The patio was rock solid all these years, no heaving, no paver movement, just time for a change and expansion.
I've removed all the pavers and want to extend the patio out where existing grass is. I'll dig out organics and add soil/clay as required to bring the new area level with the old base. I want to use those Brock or Gator Base panels over the entire surface so to tie in the old, thick, existing base with the newly prepared dirt/soil. Then I'll add non-woven textile over the entire surface area, ~1/2" screed with HPB then Gator Base Panels then 60mm paver slabs.
I figure doing it this way, both portions of the patio are level relative to one another and the high density polypropylene Gator Base ties it all together.
Does this sound like a good plan? Better than just throwing slabs down just for the sake of haveing new stone. It should be done as professionally as possible.
Cheers!
That sounds good if the old patio does not need to be re-levelled. You mentioned adding soil / clay to get the base level. I would not do that, rather use a proper aggregate like you use for the other base to get it level with the old base. It compacts much more efficiently and effectively.
@@iamahardscaper Thanks for your response. It is very much appreciated, especially in this day and age 😃. The soil is higher than the old base. I could simply be scrape it down level with the old base, then textile, HPB, Gator Base then slabs, no?
You recommend not putting the textile over the compacted soil but rather dig down an inch and then add screening, textile, HPB, Gator tile then slab?
Just want to make sure I understand.
The Gator Base can be used without aggregate base, just existing compacted soil, textile, hpb then slab. You mentioned in your video using Brock I think? Maybe that has different specs? 🤓
Yes, that makes sense. I must have misinterpreted the previous comment. Compact subsoil, geotextile, Bedding layer, panels, pavers. 👍
@@iamahardscaper Good job on the web site too. 👍
@@iamahardscaper Thanks 🥰 Like I said. Your response is very much appreciated!!
BTW, are you in Canada or US?
When you were pushing geogrid there were like some pipes connected toga there. What are those pipes for?
When I was kicking it and there were white pipes? Those are perforated pipes to collect and exit water out of the system.
@@iamahardscaper
Do you have video on proper drainage set up? I
I do not just yet.
Thanks for all the great information! I have a couple of questions. I am installing the 2' x 2' x 5/8" thick Corso Italia porcelain tile rom Home Depot in front of my outdoor fireplace/kitchen built with Chicago Common Brick on cinder block, which is located in Chicago. The space is approximately 4.5' x 16' and is surrounded by the fireplace on one side and concrete on the remaining three sides. Plus, we're going to add a second 11' x 11' patio area. I've excavated approximately 5" in depth and leveled and hand tampered the area about 6 times. Next, I've added a 20 year weed barrier and approximately 3.75" grade 8 CA6 gravel, which I've hand tampered about 4-5 times. Next, I plan on adding the leveling sand, Brock Paverbase panels and finally, the porcelain pavers. My questions are as follows: The paver area is surrounded on all four sides by the brick fireplace and concrete...do I need to account for a 6" wide space against the concrete (but not against the brick) or will the elevated sloped pavers be sufficient for drainage for the long run? I've seen paver patios like mine without the 6" gap, including in this video. Also, the below grade cinder block has been sealed twice. I plan on sealing the lower 1-2 brick levels too.
I am sorry I cannot quite follow the question. Are you asking about a 6" space for the edge restraint? If so, no as long as the space is surrounded by the concrete and fireplace like you said. For drainage, I would not be able to say unless I saw the entire property and space you are installing.
@@iamahardscaper yes, I am referring to the edge restraint. Is it absolutely necessary or can I just slope the level 1/8+" per foot away from the fireplace? Is there a way to upload a picture here?
Oops, I left out my second question...is my grade 8 CA6 gravel a decent base for my project? It'll end up being about 3.875" deep on tampered weed barrier covered soil.
Yes as long as that is where you want the water to go
Unfortunately there are so many different names for aggregates. If that is a 3/4” angular crushed stone with fines you are good.
Do you not use any joint sand with a open clear stone base or do you place a liner over 3/8 material and then ...?
I use polymeric sand with no geotextile over the 3/8”. I know some people do.
@@iamahardscaper it doesn't fall down in between the pavers and get lost in the underlying 3/8 stone?
I find we lose about 5-10% of sand but it’s very minimal and it chokes out in the voids
@@iamahardscaper Great. Thanks
Can I use under pavers 3/8 stone no sand
Yup
Hey Mike, my contractor is telling we just need to use 3" DG(decomposed granite) as base material and we don't need any bedding layer on top of it, paver can directly go on top of it. will there be any issue with it? please advise.
Hi, unfortunately I do not provide any information against another contractor. I would check my previous videos and see what I recommend. I cannot speak on your area and what your contractor recommends.
@@iamahardscaper I understand. But I don't see DG is used in your video - 4 Base preparation method. Thank you
I believe decomposed granite is actually a substitute for Granular A in some areas. As long as it is a 3/4” crushed down to fines. That would be a dense graded base
So u dont recommend rock dust for the base for pavers? Someone told me to use rock dust AKA screenings but thought they would retain moisture instead of drain..
Never should be used. It is the leftovers at the quarry that they sold a long time ago to hardscapers
@@iamahardscaper so u think a crusher run then sand then compacted will do the job?
Question please,
What is the best base for travertine paver?
Thanks in advance
It depends a little less on the product and more so the application. Patio, pool patio, etc. if you want to go tight joint, I’d probably opt for a concrete sand bedding layer. If you are okay with joints, you could go open graded or synthetic.
@I Am a Hardscaper Thanks for the quick response and solution.
Great video for explaining ! But I think the video editor didn't match up nicely !
Thank you! I will have to take a look at it
Are you aware of any HPB providers in Michigan?
I am not unfortunately but do know plenty of contractors that use it there so it shouldn’t be hard to find
Good video on different bases. I would have thought that ridgid foam base panels a gimmick. The pavers arent compacted into the bedding sand.?!.. So I don't know about that, seems pretty flimsy.? But I'm old school, and seen a lot of products come and go. But you seem very thorough so I would trust your judgement.
I appreciate the comment! As somebody that waited to see how the product held up through time, I am now a big believer in the product. You are right, the pavers are not compacted into the bedding sand, which means you do not get the same interlock. But for pedestrian traffic, it holds up and performs extremely well through freeze thaw cycles.
thank you thank you thank you
Thank you!
Why not rock dust
stone dust? th-cam.com/video/zGdsOcPvVBw/w-d-xo.html
Concrete, rough screeded, no steel, with 1/4” minus on top.
This will set you apart from your competitors for not much extra.
Imagine no compaction. Imagine no come backs for decades.
Interesting. Where are you located? Here we would never use 1/4” minus because of its consequences on the pavers / lack of drainage etc
@@iamahardscaperit’s not that interesting. I’m not in USA but water here is the same. Water is designed to sheet off top at 1% gradient, certainly not encouraged to pass through the sub base. No come back in 30 years of paving, mainly driveways is enough proof it works.
Consequences on pavers is hilarious.
Wherever you are, we still get water through the joints of our pavers here and through our base extensions. Always best for us to be able to get that water out of the system with good drainage materials.
@@iamahardscaper1/4” minus drains perfectly.
Pavers are allowed to get wet.
I’m on 4” of concrete what do you think could possibly happen?
I laid 2 million pavers with zero failures ever. Because we use a fail proof system it can’t fail.
Asphalt, not ashphalt. 😀
Hahaha I’ve been told
High performance bedding will scratch ur stones and sand will wash away easy . I am doing a big project and we are using high performance . We have to tarp all our interlock and plywood all surfaces it's a nightmare.
I haven’t experienced the same issues with needing to tarp and plywood everything. How is the HPB getting on to the surface of the stones?
pls dont make "how to" videos if you dont have the knowing. what you show is wrong in so many ways.
what you show is for example not filter rod to each other, frost-proof or capillary breaking.
Thank you!