A huge thank you for this video. I decided to buy an adapter and a bunch of heavyweight extension cords after watching the video. Well, we just got hit by a major storm that knocked out power in our area for 5 days... I used the V2L feature to keep running the following: refrigerator, cell phones and iPad, morning coffee makers, small microwave (as needed), internet (modem and router), a TV. Had it been winter, I could also have powered our gas furnace. So, as always: this website is a HUGE HELP to so many of us. THANK YOU!
@@TheIoniqGuy vw is supposed to later this year enable v2x on all the 2023 model year id series evs. The Ford lightning will have v2x available across all trims starting later this year. In fact Ford's home station capable of 80amps and backwards capable is only $1,300. Vs something like the wallbox quasar costing 2-3x as much. The leaf has also been capable thanks to chademo for years now of v2x. So it's something more ev manufacturer's are working on offering.
@@TheIoniqGuy Ditto! I'd seen a bunch of these videos but none exactly like I'd wanted to set up. We already had a subpanel with all of our 120V loads on it so putting in a transfer switch or a transfer panel seemed like overkill. Given other info I'd seen about putting in a backfeed (like you did) and powering both bus bars it seemed to me like it should work (as many RV users do when only having a 120V feed), but i hadn't seen anyone do that exact situation to validate the design. So we put it in and tried it and god damn it did work! We did have a situation where our power went out for a few hours, but we just ran extension cords to power the fridges and internet, but to power the whole house with just a switch is an utter game changer!
Great vid! Thanks! Picked up the GV60 last night. Out the door was $79K. Buyer's remorse was setting in until your vid, then I did some math. My EV is 77.4 kwh which is roughly 6 Tesla Powerwalls and would cost approx $60K. Therefore, (again roughly) I got the equivalent of 6 Powerwalls and a bad ass GV60 for $19K. I feel better now. Calling my electrician on Monday! Thanks again!
I just purchased a KIA EV 6 and this is really helpful. I was trying to understand this process vs the transfer switch process which is being promoted on the KIA ev6 forums. This gives all of the detailed information which I can share with the electrician. Great job walking through the entire process, including the cables and parts needed. Also including the limitations and what to expect with how long the battery will last is a great.Very much appreciated, thank you.
OMG, before the switch to an EV car was even on my radar, I just had an transfer switch and generator outlet installed so I can now run my propane generator to power my house when the power goes out here in Baja, Mexico. Woo hoo! Currently counting down the days until my SEL Cyber Grey/Grey arrives in July, but thinking now of adding a Level 2 power station too. Thanks for this informative video.
This is super informative. I already have a secondary pannel for a gas generator . Your 120V adaptor to socket is great, I can buy the same thing and finally forget about fuel gas generator. Thanks so much. Can't wait to get my Ioniq5 in 8-14 months ... Just pre-ordered and Hyundai Canada doesn't take 2023 orders yet
I saw another video of a guy in Canada who did the same thing and during an ice storm his Ioniq powered his furnace for four days. Having grown up near the border this would have been a life saver for us!
Living in hurricane country in Florida, I’m very interested. I nearly got a Powerwall, but passed on that for the same reasons I didn’t get a Tesla EV. Thanks for the idea!
One of the best videos I've seen recently, regardless of content. Good job. Would be a nice option for myself instead of firing up our 7.2kw/9kw peek generator to run the house, especially during times of average load. Not having to purchase and store gas is a huge benefit. 1.8kw is not a lot of power, but a lot of times you don't need much. The down side for me is we have a 240 volt well pump. This is where the Ford F150 lighting has really done things right with a 240 volt, 30 amp output on the V2L
Just FYI the current f150 hybrid with pro power onboard already does the 7.2kw at 240v. I realize it’s not electric, but still it’s a possibility even now
Correction for some of his comments. The United States uses a 240Vac system, the three wires are the two hots and common that is center tapped in the transformer. It is NOT a ground. That is something else entirely. There is not a utility ground. The house itself will have a ground rod installed somewhere usually outside of the house. The center tap on the transformer is done to split the 240Vac into two 120Vac feeds. In the breaker panel, the two long rails running from the top to the bottom in which the breakers actually connect to. Then there will be a shorter separate neutral/common bar. Breakers for the larger appliances, dryers, water heater, furnace, oven and so on have special breakers that tap across the two main hot lines for the full 240Vac. I do recommend having the output power tested from the vehicle to the house. If the output from the car is a PWM (square wave) do not use the car battery to power the house unless an emergency. The PWM output from a battery is not the same as sinusoid AC wave. This will lead to premature failure of appliances within the house. Power supplies that convert the normal AC to DC for laptops, TVs and other items will most likely get hot under the PWM power. Especially the cheaper end stuff. Simply look at the power supply at see its ratings. A sine wave or LCL filter would be needed to convert the PWM power from the battery to a true sine wave. This technically applies to the solar power system as well. Some inverters for solar systems have built in filters, with varying quality. You get what you pay for. And the interlock's main purpose is so that your solar or EV battery are not powering the grid, not the lineman safety. These systems would be instantly overloaded if utility is down and/or if utility is online, output of phase and would cause chaos. No lineman touches a line without it being measured and confirmed to be off before maintenance.
In regards to the output waveform, it is indeed pure sine wave. I've seen another video of someone connecting a UPS to this car and it didn't have issues like it does on modified sine wave inverters
Nice walk through. The only thing I would suggest to make it simpler would be to run it off a transfer panel. then you wouldn't have to worry about accidently turning on a 240v circuit
We have a similar set up where we have a full subpanel instead of a transfer panel. All the 240V loads are on the main panel, so the subpanel only has 120V loads (about 20-some different circuits).
Just had this system installed today. I can now have my gas furnace, my kitchen, lights, and 2 computers powered by my Ioniq5. With all the above powered, I' draw only .3 on my car's indicator. This is with the V2L inverter from Amazon ($129) rather than the very expensive Hyundai unit. We don't need no stinkin' generator! Big thanks to you. My guy used this video to perform the entire job.
I'm curious what they didn't understand. I trained to be an electrician a decade ago and this is just like any other back-feeding generator installation.
Very informative vid! Just a note for those that might be interested, I powered my gas furnace (220 watts surge, 150 running) for 12 hours (40's outside) and used 4~5% of my EV-6's battery. I have a Honda gen but will use this before the gen, especially at night.
Great video, TIG. I'm getting rooftop solar installed, and rather than spend $17,000 on battery storage, I'll put that toward a Kia EV6. Getting a 4- or 6-circuit subpanel with generator connection installed, so though it won't be instantaneous, I should be able to walk into the garage, and get the critical loads covered by the EV6 V2L. This video really seals the deal for me!
@@TheIoniqGuy 25 panels with optimizers, 9.3 kW, a SolarEdge inverter, a subpanel where I'll be able to direct power from the main panel or the plugged-in source (generator or V2L) for 4 or 6 circuits (TBD). I still wish we'd be able to disconnect from the grid and get solar during an outage, but that doesn't sound possible, right?
Sounds awesome! The new Enphasr IQ4 micro inverters allow for powering your house during an outage. I have the IQ3s and really wish I waited to get the new version
I'm thinking on a very similar basis. Why buy a battery for the solar system, when it's now the most expensive part of the setup, when a car battery can pick-up the slack. If the car battery is not available, then that means I'm not in the house, so the house needs very little power, but it's good to know that solar manufacturers are building in the facility to supply the house in the event of a electric company outage, because the thought of having all that solar on my roof and not being able to use it, just doesn't make any sense to me! Looking forward to an update once the V2L update is available to be able to supply hopefully 240 to the house.
@@TheIoniqGuyI've got a Sunsynk Inverter and using the gen port for v2l to the house. What happens in your set up if you had some loads on before plugging in the car? Will the car not draw? I ask this as we have found the car v2l/gen port on the inverter will only work if we isolate the inverter. If we leave the inverter online and just switch to the gen port the car just stays in 'transferring' state but does not send any power. It's almost as if it senses there's voltage already there so does not transfer any power.
Well done. Seeing this only now, after I tested my own setup with the Ioniq 5 V2L. It’s a little simpler than yours. My solar doesn’t go into the main board but connects in between board and meter. I have a transfer switch installed right in front of the board which in position 1 connects solar/meter side with the board’s breakers. In position two it connects the board to a cable with a female NEMA 30A plug onto which I can hook either the Ioniq 5 or a generator. In this position, solar/meter side are by default disconnected. So it is impossible to make a mistake - the house can only be powered by either plug input (Ioniq 5/generator) or solar/grid. I also have a separate circuit connected to the solar/grid side with an off-board breaker and this powers a tiny LED light (and possibly a radio if I want) which would show me when the grid power is back. (To run both split phases on the same 120V, just connect L1 and L2 inside the male NEMA plug - this way you could also connect a 200V generator to the female plug and just run the house as normal.) BTW, I noticed that my UPS for the internet doesn’t like the power the Ioniq 5 produces and does not accept it while all other household devices do. Probably something is not quite right with the frequency, but I don’t have the tools to test this.
THANK YOU for the incredible tutorial, yet another fantastic video from your channel. I just hooked up my system just as you did with one difference - I wired it up to a 240V breaker and used a generator cable that splices the two hots together so it can provide 120V to both phases. I just had to pull new romex for the dishwasher and disposal because they were wired to two breakers with a single neutral (MWBC) which could overload the neutral when using the V2L to both phases like this. So to anyone else who wires this up to both phases, make sure you don't have any shared neutrals - e.g. every circuit should have it's own neutral. Otherwise you can wire the system up like the Ioniq Guy to a single phase and you won't have a problem with overloaded neutrals.
That's a lot of work for 15 amps 120v. I do a pretty similar thing off my electric lawn mower using a 6kW 240v split phase inverter. I have less kWh but it does run the whole house, and I can charge the mower from my car to extend it and I'm not tethered to the house. Previously I just did the drag an extension cord around thing which was enough for a few lights, refrigerator, and internet. All electric including heat pump / hot water / etc so I need more power overall. I can't wait to be able to do this with a vehicle capable of 50 amps 240v like a Cybertruck or F150 Lightning. Linemen treat every cable as hot and will test before touching anything. The reason to disconnect your main breaker in a power outage is so you don't try to power 10 of your neighbors' houses as well and immediately overload everything, your breaker would trip almost immediately. Also when the power came back on there would be a near explosion (worse than a dead short) when the two out of phase power systems connected to each other, and again the breakers would trip immediately after a huge arc occurred.
I just had an electrician at my home and put in this setup. I now have power to my main breaker. I tried it out and ran the furnace (fan only because it is gas burning), refrigerator, freezer and computer and modem. That is as far as I went but I will cautiously add lights when the power actually goes out. Thanks so much. Mary
Thanks for the link to the Goal Zero transfer switch. I have a sub panel in my garage (no main breaker so can't use interlock) that it will work perfect for and I"ll be able to power the apartment over the garage with my car!
Excellent video that will help me. I was planning to install a manual transfer switch with a generator outlet and use a Delta Pro battery pack ($5000.00) in lieu of a stand by generator. I just purchased a Genesis GV60 which included the load adapter. This set up will save me the cost of the battery. We usually average a day of outage per year so this solution is perfect and offers us piece of mind. Thanks for your injunity.
Note that many RVs have an external 240VAC jack (twist lock) analogous to the 120VAC jack shown here. Since many generators (and most campgrounds) can provide 240VAC (split phase) power, that makes sense. Alas, some generators (and the V2L here) only provide one half of that, which is why RV owners also have an adaptor to feed a 120VAC extension cord to both sides of the 240VAC plug. Any actual 240V appliances won't work, but all the 120VAC circuits will. To do the same at your house, swap the single pole 15A breaker for a double pole (relocating one circuit); the interlock would apply to the new arrangement. As in the video, turn off all the two-pole breakers (which won't work when fed from one leg anyway), and turn on whatever you need among the single-pole breakers (up to the capacity of the V2L or generator,).
Yup, this is exactly our situation. We have a subpanel with solely 120V loads, but 100A 240V feeding into it from the main panel, and the 240V loads on the main panel. The generator backfeed goes into the subpanel and feeds both busbars. So it feeds all the 120V loads on the panel, so we didn't have to move any circuits to do it.
Props! - right at 1:40 I saw what I was hoping to see - a main breaker interlock! You can always buy an inexpensive generator (relatively) and use the same receptacle just making sure you have the generator far enough from the house/garage so you don't get CO poisoning.
We have no 240V in the house other than the dryer (gas heating and stove/oven), so my plan is to have a simple boat-style power switch from main to car load for whenever the power fails. We're averaging about 10kWh/day, so we should be good for about 5 days, too. LED lights and power-sipping laptops go a long way in lowering overall electric consumption, it seems, even with us working from home and having lots of pot lights on for most of the day.
you need to move breakers around if you live in the USA as we have a split single phase 240 volt system. down side is you will have all your critical loads on one leg which may unbalance your system somewhat
Good video. Most breakers are made to run continuously at 80% load so loading a 15 amp breaker to 100% may not be the best of ideas. But I like the idea. Also thanks for talking about the interlock.
This is actually fine as long as the wiring is 12 gauge. You want it to trip past 15 amp because that's the upper limit of the V2L adapter (theoretically the V2L should also power down past that but another check is good too). As long as the wiring is 12 gauge (which can handle 20 amp, and 80% continuous power derating to 16 amp) then you should be good.
Great idea thank you so much will be hiring an electrician to setup the same system thank you also I was surprised to see that we have the same solar panel system
We’re installing 27 x 480w panels. Just under 13kW which should generate around 16MW a year on the east coast of Canada. Should cover all our car charging needs too.
Oh man, that is a monster system! Is that all going on your roof or are you doing ground mount? I thought my 430w panels were big when I got them last year. Crazy that they're at almost 500w now
They’re all going on the roof. I’m a novice at the solar power game so I’m trusting that the company installing them knows what they’re doing. They have several years experience so everything should work fine. We have net metering here but no off-peak power rates so I can’t make any extra money off the solar, but it should cover my annual power consumption.
We have net metering as well with no off peak rates. Our company banks our excess in kWh instead of a dollar figure since prices fluctuate seasonally. Unfortunately, I installed my system late summer last year so I wasn't able to bank much before the sun got low and had some $100+ bills throughout the winter.
Possibly the optimum solution is to first start with battery backup on your PV. This doesn't need to be huge because the V2L will provide a trickle feed top up in the absence of solar via your PV charger mains input (which can be set to limit at the max V2L capability). The purpose of having a small capacity PV battery (say, 5KWh) is to provide peak load capabilities that are well beyond the capabilities of the V2L. Also overcomes the 120 240 issues you have in the US. In the UK, we are blessed with 230v V2L at 13A. With this arrangement, you could use a high load appliance for a short period (eg. dry some clothes for an hour/ cook) drawing most of the power from the low capacity but high current capability PV battery, whilst the V2L replenishes at a constant rate.
Hi Andrew, desperately trying to find info on this, I'm from the UK and your comment is interesting. Am i understanding you correctly in that say you had a 5kw home battery you could use the Ioniq to keep that topped up with contsant trickle? I wonder who I could get to install that ind of arrangement. I am just about to get a 5kw battery and additional solar with a UPS built in as we have power cuts a lot. It sounds like a pretty straight forward alteration to the system?
@@adamhardy8690 Hi Adam, yes your understanding is correct. It's a matter of doing some calculations after monitoring your power consumption over 24hrs at various times of the year and working out how much PV battery capacity you need for peak draw periods knowing that between peaks you'll be topping up at ~2KW. Of course, if you have a large enough PV array and excess energy during peak sun, you'll be wanting to first charge the PV battery and once that's topped up, direct any excess power to the EV battery. Given the 60 to 70KWhr available in long range EV's, they can provide this load smoothing capability for quite a considerable length of time and still leave plenty for car journeys. You'd need to factor in your journey requirements and make sure you didn't draw below that level.
I just seen Enphase and there bidirectional car charger/solar inverter with V2House and V2Grid functionality. There lots of companies working on it. Just hope for good implementation
So, if I understand correctly, you would need a PV battery backup specified to be able to be charged from a generator for this scenario to work? Most home batteries right now do not support this.
You can get a 240v v2L adapter from overseas that puts out 3.6kw split phase. You can also use the plug under the rear seat to get an additional 15A/120v to run your second phase.
you said " You can also use the plug under the rear seat to get an additional 15A/120v to run your second phase"" that will not work in north america.. the reason is the fact the neutral is center taped on the step down transformer from 7 ish KV to 240 V. That is the reason you can share the neutral for a ZERO current neutral if both of the hot legs are balanced. In your suggestion the current WOULD double BAD!!!!!!!! but the 240v v2L adapter from overseas that puts out 3.6kw split phase. would work if it is TRULY 240 split phase. If it is from overseas I would bet money (not sure) that it is 240 volts hot to neutral. One would need a to construct a 240 hot neutral primary to 240 split-phase secondary output transformer and assume 12 amps on 240 split phase usable. better than below..... for all that in North america just take a 120 volt hot to neutral primary to 240 slit phase secondary but you will only get 5 usable Amps on 240 split phase Enough to keep a refer going and a few led's. good luck be safe and do not drop any electricity on the floor. it's shocking :)
I have a Generator input at my home in Australia. WE have all 240v Systems. I have a manual switch for change over. My KIA Niro can power all my Lights and Power points inside my Home. No stove top, oven, Hot water or Heating. I did a test recently for a 24H time period. I had a 20% draw down from the vehicle Battery. We don't loose power that frequently, but it's nice to know I have that Option. I also Have a 2.2kw Generator as a back up back up... Cheers
Have you checked out the CCS bi-directional changing protocol that is coming? Game changer as you can power your whole house from your vehicle during power outage or during peak hours for areas with time of use rates for power. Hopefully Ioniq 5 will support this in the future. See Emporia bi-directional charger for some info. This would be a good future video.
ok, this is an amazing video. before watching a video, i was thinking ok, if there's a poweroutage for multiple days, use the v2l, then cord and powerbar and fridge, freezer done deal. But seeing how you can put it back into your breaker etc etc, such an awesome video. only 3 more weeks till i might see a i5 in my drive way, and knock on wood, we rarely get power outages, if there ar eit's for 2-3 hours but a few years back we were out for 7 days, but that's very rare and few inbetween. love all your videos and have been binge watching them multiple times!
Hyundai's V2L is a neutral-bonded ground source, which means the neutral is connected to the ground. Your panel has the primary neutral-ground bound. Therefore this V2L connexion is violating the National Electrical Code which stipulates that there must be a single point where neutral is connected to ground. In this kind of setup, you usually need to run a floating-neutral generator I also noticed that the V2L adapter allows for two orientation: ground up or ground down. This basically enables to swap hot and neutral on all powered devices. My polarity tester throws an error when I use the ground-up configuration, but not gorund-down. I don't understand this dumb decision, as the prongs on the V2L are already keyed, but not on many extension cords. This creates a situation where a switched off lightbulb would still be live, as the switch would normally be on the black wire, not on the white one. Were you aware of this? Or I'm missing something?
I just had an electrician do this for me. Only difference is my panel is in the basement. Cost about $1,200. Hopefully I never have to use it but is nice I have flexibility. Hopefully future EVs can let you output more power at once.
Great informative video. Gives people so good ideas. I plan on using a large battery pack as a backup and then use the car to charge the battery pack. It’s an idea so I will see what the electrician thinks and go with his solution.
@@TheIoniqGuy , I did the same and the electrician said sure, let me come out to estimate the work. In 6 weeks. When he finally came he said, no he would never put in a 120V generator inlet. Only 240V. Said 15A would power almost nothing, ignoring the arithmetic I had done on our appliances. Wasted 6 weeks.
Cool, Thanks. 1-2 kW from a car could be very useful during a power outage. I'd be more interested in a simpler system that isn't connected to the grid at all, if possible.
Thank you for posting awesome videos about the Ioniq 5! I am very interested in getting one, especially because of all the cool features it has, such as V2L and the design is extremely cool and unique. Just a little concerned about charging infrastructure as I am currently driving Tesla.
Thanks for this! I’ve already used the V2L once when contractors had to turn off our power for an hour (I used it to keep slow cooking the roast in the crock pot😊). It was super fun to see your setup here although I don’t think it’ll be easy for us to set up as our main panel is buried deep in the house. I plan to just plug in the chest freezer in an emergency and save the food (temperate climate, wood stove for heat, everything else will be fine). We are in the middle of solar install (Enphase also) so it was fun to see your setup.
Awesome! It's great that we've got this option now. Enjoy your solar system. You're lucky to install early in the year so you can reap the summer benefits of all that sun
@@jeffk8359 Nope! The 12V starter battery contains a tiny fraction of the energy that an EV battery has. If you wanted to power your home for any length of time with a combustion car, then you would have to continuously also leave its dirty engine running.
@@ciaransherry6021 of course the 12 volt battery has a fraction of the energy as an EV battery please don't State the obvious while all of this green energy I completely believe in and I thoroughly understand it as I do hold a degree in physics so let's just put it out there for the record only having half of your power panel faced quite frankly is not a smart thing because that means under normal situations you're unbalancing your utility load as well we are talking emergency situations and quite frankly I don't give a damn about whether my ice engine is dirty or clean if it's a matter of lights and keeping my refrigerator going and providing enough voltage at the plug where my natural gas and or propane stove is plugged in so I can spark it then so be it Now if my directness was offensive don't take it personally I've just found that most people who speak in these forms actually have zero concept about electricity or energy or anything else because most people are not educated now like I said above I hold a degree in physics so when I speak I speak from fact and if you're one of those people that believes that everything should be run on electricity well that's all fine and dandy if you live in Hawaii where the temperatures are always moderate I live in high heat areas and then the other part of the year it could be incredibly cold so I have to deal with 100° Plus as well as 0° all within the same year that's not the realm of a heat pump Like I said my apologies if this was too direct for you or if it came out to be condescending I didn't mean it to be but I'm just tired of people talking about things that they may not understand
@@jeffk8359 Ah sure you're just great! Being relatively uneducated, I defer to the humility of one who professes to have a Degree, and who worships before that Blessed Trinity of 'Me, Myself, and I. 💚🙂
V2L feature anyway outputs up to 15A also for 250VAC 1Phase, so in this case it would be approx 3700W, in Korea it designed as 3300VA as 220V 1phase standard. I hope that Hyundai would add another part which has 3Phase 400V V2L (for EU Type 2 AC Receptacle) or even 1Phase but 32A with Industrial receptacle. but it might not come. And I didn't know the unlock/lock doors button is located at Passengerside door. Korean version doesnt have it...
I want to see a range extended electric car with a 240V 50A hookup, that probably power my entire house. Just program the traction inverter to produce that 50-60Hz AC which has more than enough wattage then a disconnect from the traction motor. Disconnects for such a high load like traction motors would be beefy but it wouldn't have to switch under any load so minimal wear and tear.
To my mind, this ought to be a no-brainer. An EV is a huge battery on wheels storing a fair chunk of power, which should be available for more than simply driving the car. I would never attempt to emulate what this guy has done. Good luck to him but it's above my pay grade. The EV manufactures and the grid operators need to get together and supply and fit all of the electronics in a consumer package.
National Electric Code (NEC) NEC 702.4 Capacity and Rating. (B) System Capacity. The calculated load on the standby source must be in accordance with Article 220 or by a method approved by the authority having jurisdiction. (1) Manual Transfer Equipment. The optional standby power source must have adequate capacity for all equipment intended to operate at one time as determined by the user.
I am not through the whole video yet, but something like the ecoflow delta 3 pro is pretty cheap at 3k and would make your system more robust... that ecoflow will output 8kw at 220v, and has a 4kw battery... the small battery isn't an issue because your car can keep the ecoflow topped off at 110v.. so this ups what your system can handle for power spikes, lets you use 220v breakers, and would let you drive off while running off the 4kw battery to charge up the car if power comes back on in town first.
In a cold climate what you want to be powering during a winter storm is your Furnace blower, a few lights and one or two electrical outlets to charge your phone, tablets, and power an induction cooktop, or portable induction cooktop and have ample power left in your battery to survive until the local utility is restored. You don't need all of your lights and certainly not all of your outlets to survive. Outlets that may have loads you haven't even thought about and will just drain your limited battery capacity of your EV. If you had a blizzard like Fort Erie(ON) or Buffalo (NY) had winter of 22 three days of strong winds and much snow depending where you were, trees toppling taking out the electrical grid, you might want to save the energy in your vehicles battery to last as long as necessary. My brothers off grid house was the only one in his neighborhood to have electricity to run his gas furnace off his limited 54kW Tesla power wall. His neighbors tried to run electric space heaters off generators to heat their homes. Until he went to them and hooked up their furnaces to the generators.
Very helpful! I had not really even thought of it, but I already have a generator input installed (GenerLink) and I could easily use my EV6 V2L adapter. I have an 8700 watt inverter generator for the task but it's probably overkill for most needs.
You often need the overhead to run motor based appliances (fridge, clothes washer, heat pump and HVAC, pumps) , even though the usage might idle around 100w to 300w to 1500w, starting up a large fridge that doesn’t have an inverter or starter capacitor could pull the full 30A or 40A, whatever the peak current is, up to 4kw to 7kw for a brief surge. Now, you might be able to mitigate this with 2 cars… or 3 cars, or a parallel load generator sic. Heater elements can also sometimes spike 2.5kw because they often don’t have a slow surge, but a short spike and then switch off for a few minutes as the oven or boiler spreads the heat load around the oven/tank. This is mitigated if you wire your house for a backup battery, since they move these heavy duty breakers and circuits off the battery/generator sub circuit just to save you installation costs and money. I think there’s also a smart circuit breaker that costs something like $3k that can smart-break in an emergency and switches loads to different bus/circuits, or turns off breakers automatically. It’s used for high end solar installs. If you have to supply HVAC or ovens ie Winter Heating, water heaters, etc then you have to spend a lot more to get the overload capacity, or move the house circuit to 3-phase, sic so that there’s load capacity for heavy duty appliances.
Fantastic video. Great set-up. I'm curious though - is there any kind of safety issue having the solar/battery input and "generator" input both on the panel without any exclusive switch? You've obviously done it right with the interlock to grid, but aren't you dependent on remembering to manually shut off the solar/battery breaker? Obviously you're very careful in the video and actually do it in 2 redundant spots. But what if you're not home and somebody else thinks they know how to do it? Or other viewers without as much knowledge as you? Just curious what happens if the solar/battery and the Ioniq V2L are accidently connected at the same time?
Why couldn't one split the extension cord into two with a common Y splitter and have two 15A generator inlets, one for each pole? You would still have to stay w/in 15A total, and make sure to never flip on any double breakers. But you wouldn't have to move any breakers to power the things you need. We want to power the fridge, furnace (for the blower) and a few lights and plugs at a time throughout the house. Also, I'm puzzled about exactly which breakers were powered by the generator inlet in your video. At one point it seemed it was every other one from top to bottom, both sides, starting with intake breaker at the upper right. That matches powering the fridge at breaker 25 on the left. But when you turned off all the powered breakers before unplugging it you flipped many that were just below each other, not alternating.
So once your car is plugged into the panel and the main disconnected you could use your solar to power your house during the day and the car would amp up during night.
Fantastic video, very informative. One question, doesn't the Ioniq 5 have another 120v outlet under the back seat? And if so, could you install another generator inlet to power the other half of the panel? I would assume the 15 amp maximum would be for the two legs total then.
@@TheIoniqGuy Please see page 21 of the online owners manual for instructions to use both outlets at the same time: "Opening the charging door or connecting the V2L connector to the charging inlet, the V2L discharging mode will shut off. If you want to use the indoor and outdoor V2L simultaneously, firstly connect the V2L connector to the charging inlet and use the indoor V2L." I might be getting my Ioniq 5 tomorrow and looking for someone to test to to see if both outlets are limited to a total of 15A or if they are separately rated.
Nice walkthrough. Unfortunately a lot of homes (my own 1972-built home included) don't have breaker boxes conveniently located in the garage, and indeed, don't have a separate circuit for every appliance. I can't even wire my attached garage for 220 so I can put an L2 charger in there. :(
You know you can purchase the europe version of the V2L and use it to power both phase of the panel, not the power hungry appliances but at least you will have all the 120vac breaker availlable and you are right, no cheap extension.
Is it be possible to install a battery pack meant to power everything including oven, dryer, etc. kind of like a Tesla Wall but maybe non-brand or DIY? The idea would then be to have for instance 2 weeks of power, or about 50kWh, stored in the battery pack. You charge the car at work. When you come home, you plug in the car which will just top off the battery pack. You will probably spend more power during hours 6-22pm draining the battery pack a bit, but as you go to bed the car can catch up and will have recharged the entire battery pack in the morning. You take the car to work, recharge it, and repeat every day. Essentially, you can spend $0 on electricity if you charge for free at work. Or if you have some sort of subscription on unlimited charging, you can also save money.
Very well done; I like your step by step explanations, its very easy to follow you. I have one question. I will receive my Ionic 5 next September (if there is no delay...) I have in front of the back seat a power outlet 120V 16A. Do you know if I can use, at the same time, this power outlet with the exterior V2L adaptor? It would double the total W available to power my house. Also, if I can use both, would you have a suggestion on how to connect it to the electric panel. Maybe a second portable generator inlet?
Thanks for the clear explanation. I was wondering if it's really necessary to disconnect your PV invertor, assuming that you've got a single phase string invertor. I checked with Google Bard, which came back with the answer: "Yes, the Ioniq 5's Vehicle-to-Load (V2L) feature can be used to power a PV inverter and provide backup power for an off-grid home. The Ioniq 5's V2L port can output up to 3.6 kW of power, which is sufficient to power most inverters. Additionally, the Ioniq 5's V2L power supply is clean and stable, making it compatible with inverters" My initial impression is that you could start up your invertor using the Ioniq 5's output, then use the Ioniq 5 and PVs in tandem to power your home. Am I missing something here?
I don’t have a string inverter. I have Enphase micro inverters. They require a very specific frequency signal that only comes from the local utility or else they power off and cannot be powered back on until they sense that signal through the local utility.
Obviously, Hyundai designed this V2L for countries that has 220V as standard. Therefore, they do have V2L adapter that is designed for 220V. I am curious if you be that version, it would work without worrying about the issues you mentioned? Or the inverter inside the car is not universal to handle both. In any case, you are genius to set it up and use it.
Unfortunately it's not as simple as just plugging another country's adapter into ours. The US uses CCS 1 and other markets use CCS 2 which has more pins. They're not interchangeable.
Interesting video. I live in the country and am on a well. The well pump is on a 220 and then so is the hot water heater. Don’t think it would be capable of running this?
I'm glad you explained that you were only feeding one phase on your panel with the V2L. Up to that point it was confusing how you got it to work. That's fine if you can move things around on your electrical panel but that might not be so easy for everyone. What about using an autotransformer to step up to 240V split phase, and feed both phases on your panel, using a 4 prong (L14-30P) generator inlet plug instead of the 3 prong one? Quibble: you are referring to Neutral as Ground in this video and that is not quite right. And question: doesn't the car see the house as a ground fault given that neutral and ground are bonded in the electrical panel? Or is the car operating as a floating generator (neutral not bonded to ground in the car)?
I own a 13 kw solar system with only one powerwall and an EV. I save $500/month on gas and home electricity in Hawaii. I have power with outages and sell excess to grid. At light I am on battery. We totally seamless. I have another battery on order. I am almost off grid but Hawaiian electric is my backup to backup Plus service excess. Hawaii over 30% renewable. Not due to electric company or government but Residential rooftop solar. We pay almost 40 cents/kwh on maui and it’s increasing.
Fantastic and incredibly informative video, thank you for putting this together. I learned a lot! May I ask which gauge wire you used from the twist-lock connector to the panel? I assume 12 gauge should be more than sufficient? I need to do a 70' run from where the car would hook into the wall all the way to my panel, but I assume 12ga would be good enough for that too considering the 1800w maximum?
Finally got my Ioniq5 2023 LR RWD Preffered on Feb 23rd 2023... Super happy. My electrician is passing by May 1st. But he was worried about thet fact that the ioniq 5 is on 4 rubber wheels... So the car cannot provide a HARD GROUND but just a FLOATING one... He was worried for the electronics of the fridge/tv/modem/computer etc.... Do you understand what he means ? How is this addressed or solved by the using of the V2L? Thanks so much for ALL your videos. You are a reference for me. Greatly appreciate an answer soon. (Before May 1st! lol ) Thanks a lot. :)
I'll preface this by saying I am not a licensed electrician (and am years removed from my training) nor am I an electrical engineer. The electrical circuits throughout your home are still grounded and bonded to the ground rods which are big metal rods driven into the Earth so any short circuit would still be directed to the Earth grounds as they are the path of least resistance. If someone else is better versed in this, please chime in. I only use this setup for emergencies and in an emergency, I'm willing to accept that amount of risk as they occur few and far between. Many people have been using this setup based on my video to power their homes in emergency situations and I have yet to hear that something happened due to it. But again, please do your own research or listen to your licensed electrician. Also keep in mind, does a portable gas generator have an Earth ground? No, it doesn't. They're typically just sitting on a driveway.
How to use solar panels to charge the car when line power is off line? No street input shuts down solar, but car could supply 120VAC - would that turn the panels back on? If so, how?
It's a shame you used Enphase microinverters for your solar panels - you could have just used DC string inverters with backup batteries and an inverter to 240V/120V to the house panel, and the ability to take or feed power back to the grid. For example, an EG-4 18K system with 48V LFP batteries (minimum three at 100Ah each) supports up to 18KW of solar panels and 12KW of 240VAC. You could have a grid power outage and not even notice unless your loads exceed the 12KW (50 Amps at 240V), and for safety, the 18K automatically disconnects with grid down (anti-islanding). Your car cannot rival that power as it's 120V only at maybe 15Amps, but it could be a backup-backup.
Great information! My only question is . . . what happens when those 5 days are up, and you still don't have any power to the 240V plug to recharge your car? You may have some battery power left to drive somewhere nearby, but I would assume if you don't have power still, the charging stations won't either. Then what? Is there a way to get your solar panels to power the car without the 240V charger?
Yes, I’ve been considering getting a separate solar inverter that would be able to be installed separate from the grid so it would be able to charge the car regardless of the state of grid power.
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A huge thank you for this video. I decided to buy an adapter and a bunch of heavyweight extension cords after watching the video. Well, we just got hit by a major storm that knocked out power in our area for 5 days... I used the V2L feature to keep running the following: refrigerator, cell phones and iPad, morning coffee makers, small microwave (as needed), internet (modem and router), a TV. Had it been winter, I could also have powered our gas furnace. So, as always: this website is a HUGE HELP to so many of us. THANK YOU!
That's a great setup. I can't wait for cars that can do v2l @ 240v and 7kw.
F150 does 7kW at 240v (3,6 per phase) the electric one will, but the current hybrid with onboard power does as well
Also the EU verion can do 3.6 kW as the nominal voltage is 230 V
I also need 240 V and 7+ kW, to run my well pump to get running water during a power outage. Hate not having city water.
In europe with 7kw we power up the whole house
Great video! Thank you. VTL is a major reason I am looking at the Ioniq 5.
It's wild that nobody else is doing this especially Subaru with the Solterra. This would be a giant selling point for their outdoorsy buyer base.
@@TheIoniqGuy vw is supposed to later this year enable v2x on all the 2023 model year id series evs. The Ford lightning will have v2x available across all trims starting later this year. In fact Ford's home station capable of 80amps and backwards capable is only $1,300.
Vs something like the wallbox quasar costing 2-3x as much.
The leaf has also been capable thanks to chademo for years now of v2x. So it's something more ev manufacturer's are working on offering.
@@4literv6 It is so with the Genesis EVs (GV60, GV70 electrified, G80 electrified).
By the way I’m so glad you made this video. This is exactly what I want to do with my EV6. Now I have something to show the electrician. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
@@TheIoniqGuy Ditto! I'd seen a bunch of these videos but none exactly like I'd wanted to set up. We already had a subpanel with all of our 120V loads on it so putting in a transfer switch or a transfer panel seemed like overkill. Given other info I'd seen about putting in a backfeed (like you did) and powering both bus bars it seemed to me like it should work (as many RV users do when only having a 120V feed), but i hadn't seen anyone do that exact situation to validate the design. So we put it in and tried it and god damn it did work! We did have a situation where our power went out for a few hours, but we just ran extension cords to power the fridges and internet, but to power the whole house with just a switch is an utter game changer!
Great vid! Thanks! Picked up the GV60 last night. Out the door was $79K. Buyer's remorse was setting in until your vid, then I did some math. My EV is 77.4 kwh which is roughly 6 Tesla Powerwalls and would cost approx $60K. Therefore, (again roughly) I got the equivalent of 6 Powerwalls and a bad ass GV60 for $19K. I feel better now. Calling my electrician on Monday! Thanks again!
I just purchased a KIA EV 6 and this is really helpful. I was trying to understand this process vs the transfer switch process which is being promoted on the KIA ev6 forums. This gives all of the detailed information which I can share with the electrician. Great job walking through the entire process, including the cables and parts needed. Also including the limitations and what to expect with how long the battery will last is a great.Very much appreciated, thank you.
OMG, before the switch to an EV car was even on my radar, I just had an transfer switch and generator outlet installed so I can now run my propane generator to power my house when the power goes out here in Baja, Mexico. Woo hoo! Currently counting down the days until my SEL Cyber Grey/Grey arrives in July, but thinking now of adding a Level 2 power station too. Thanks for this informative video.
This is super informative. I already have a secondary pannel for a gas generator . Your 120V adaptor to socket is great, I can buy the same thing and finally forget about fuel gas generator. Thanks so much. Can't wait to get my Ioniq5 in 8-14 months ... Just pre-ordered and Hyundai Canada doesn't take 2023 orders yet
I saw another video of a guy in Canada who did the same thing and during an ice storm his Ioniq powered his furnace for four days. Having grown up near the border this would have been a life saver for us!
Living in hurricane country in Florida, I’m very interested. I nearly got a Powerwall, but passed on that for the same reasons I didn’t get a Tesla EV. Thanks for the idea!
One of the best videos I've seen recently, regardless of content. Good job.
Would be a nice option for myself instead of firing up our 7.2kw/9kw peek generator to run the house, especially during times of average load. Not having to purchase and store gas is a huge benefit. 1.8kw is not a lot of power, but a lot of times you don't need much. The down side for me is we have a 240 volt well pump. This is where the Ford F150 lighting has really done things right with a 240 volt, 30 amp output on the V2L
Just FYI the current f150 hybrid with pro power onboard already does the 7.2kw at 240v. I realize it’s not electric, but still it’s a possibility even now
@@ZPdrumer Yeah, I've had hybrids before. They were a great idea years ago...but BEV is the real answer.
Correction for some of his comments. The United States uses a 240Vac system, the three wires are the two hots and common that is center tapped in the transformer. It is NOT a ground. That is something else entirely. There is not a utility ground. The house itself will have a ground rod installed somewhere usually outside of the house. The center tap on the transformer is done to split the 240Vac into two 120Vac feeds. In the breaker panel, the two long rails running from the top to the bottom in which the breakers actually connect to. Then there will be a shorter separate neutral/common bar. Breakers for the larger appliances, dryers, water heater, furnace, oven and so on have special breakers that tap across the two main hot lines for the full 240Vac.
I do recommend having the output power tested from the vehicle to the house. If the output from the car is a PWM (square wave) do not use the car battery to power the house unless an emergency. The PWM output from a battery is not the same as sinusoid AC wave. This will lead to premature failure of appliances within the house. Power supplies that convert the normal AC to DC for laptops, TVs and other items will most likely get hot under the PWM power. Especially the cheaper end stuff. Simply look at the power supply at see its ratings.
A sine wave or LCL filter would be needed to convert the PWM power from the battery to a true sine wave. This technically applies to the solar power system as well. Some inverters for solar systems have built in filters, with varying quality. You get what you pay for.
And the interlock's main purpose is so that your solar or EV battery are not powering the grid, not the lineman safety. These systems would be instantly overloaded if utility is down and/or if utility is online, output of phase and would cause chaos. No lineman touches a line without it being measured and confirmed to be off before maintenance.
In regards to the output waveform, it is indeed pure sine wave. I've seen another video of someone connecting a UPS to this car and it didn't have issues like it does on modified sine wave inverters
Nice walk through. The only thing I would suggest to make it simpler would be to run it off a transfer panel. then you wouldn't have to worry about accidently turning on a 240v circuit
I prefer this way because I can have 20 circuits powered. Most transfer switch panels are only good for 8 or fewer circuits.
We have a similar set up where we have a full subpanel instead of a transfer panel. All the 240V loads are on the main panel, so the subpanel only has 120V loads (about 20-some different circuits).
Just had this system installed today. I can now have my gas furnace, my kitchen, lights, and 2 computers powered by my Ioniq5. With all the above powered, I' draw only .3 on my car's indicator. This is with the V2L inverter from Amazon ($129) rather than the very expensive Hyundai unit. We don't need no stinkin' generator!
Big thanks to you. My guy used this video to perform the entire job.
That's fantastic, Rich! You can sleep soundly knowing you've got a giant battery that can keep your house running for days now when needed
Amazing video. I had a hard time finding a certified electrician who would do this (or get the concept) but your video was a great help. Done!
I'm curious what they didn't understand. I trained to be an electrician a decade ago and this is just like any other back-feeding generator installation.
@@TheIoniqGuy The "every other breaker" issue (I believe you called it Buspar).
Excellent set up and walk through. Thanks for taking us through it all.
Very informative vid!
Just a note for those that might be interested, I powered my gas furnace (220 watts surge, 150 running) for 12 hours (40's outside) and used 4~5% of my EV-6's battery. I have a Honda gen but will use this before the gen, especially at night.
Great video, TIG. I'm getting rooftop solar installed, and rather than spend $17,000 on battery storage, I'll put that toward a Kia EV6. Getting a 4- or 6-circuit subpanel with generator connection installed, so though it won't be instantaneous, I should be able to walk into the garage, and get the critical loads covered by the EV6 V2L. This video really seals the deal for me!
What are the details of your upcoming system?
@@TheIoniqGuy 25 panels with optimizers, 9.3 kW, a SolarEdge inverter, a subpanel where I'll be able to direct power from the main panel or the plugged-in source (generator or V2L) for 4 or 6 circuits (TBD). I still wish we'd be able to disconnect from the grid and get solar during an outage, but that doesn't sound possible, right?
Sounds awesome! The new Enphasr IQ4 micro inverters allow for powering your house during an outage. I have the IQ3s and really wish I waited to get the new version
I'm thinking on a very similar basis.
Why buy a battery for the solar system, when it's now the most expensive part of the setup, when a car battery can pick-up the slack. If the car battery is not available, then that means I'm not in the house, so the house needs very little power, but it's good to know that solar manufacturers are building in the facility to supply the house in the event of a electric company outage, because the thought of having all that solar on my roof and not being able to use it, just doesn't make any sense to me!
Looking forward to an update once the V2L update is available to be able to supply hopefully 240 to the house.
@@TheIoniqGuyI've got a Sunsynk Inverter and using the gen port for v2l to the house. What happens in your set up if you had some loads on before plugging in the car? Will the car not draw? I ask this as we have found the car v2l/gen port on the inverter will only work if we isolate the inverter. If we leave the inverter online and just switch to the gen port the car just stays in 'transferring' state but does not send any power. It's almost as if it senses there's voltage already there so does not transfer any power.
Well done. Seeing this only now, after I tested my own setup with the Ioniq 5 V2L. It’s a little simpler than yours. My solar doesn’t go into the main board but connects in between board and meter. I have a transfer switch installed right in front of the board which in position 1 connects solar/meter side with the board’s breakers. In position two it connects the board to a cable with a female NEMA 30A plug onto which I can hook either the Ioniq 5 or a generator. In this position, solar/meter side are by default disconnected. So it is impossible to make a mistake - the house can only be powered by either plug input (Ioniq 5/generator) or solar/grid. I also have a separate circuit connected to the solar/grid side with an off-board breaker and this powers a tiny LED light (and possibly a radio if I want) which would show me when the grid power is back. (To run both split phases on the same 120V, just connect L1 and L2 inside the male NEMA plug - this way you could also connect a 200V generator to the female plug and just run the house as normal.) BTW, I noticed that my UPS for the internet doesn’t like the power the Ioniq 5 produces and does not accept it while all other household devices do. Probably something is not quite right with the frequency, but I don’t have the tools to test this.
THANK YOU for the incredible tutorial, yet another fantastic video from your channel. I just hooked up my system just as you did with one difference - I wired it up to a 240V breaker and used a generator cable that splices the two hots together so it can provide 120V to both phases. I just had to pull new romex for the dishwasher and disposal because they were wired to two breakers with a single neutral (MWBC) which could overload the neutral when using the V2L to both phases like this.
So to anyone else who wires this up to both phases, make sure you don't have any shared neutrals - e.g. every circuit should have it's own neutral. Otherwise you can wire the system up like the Ioniq Guy to a single phase and you won't have a problem with overloaded neutrals.
That's a lot of work for 15 amps 120v. I do a pretty similar thing off my electric lawn mower using a 6kW 240v split phase inverter. I have less kWh but it does run the whole house, and I can charge the mower from my car to extend it and I'm not tethered to the house. Previously I just did the drag an extension cord around thing which was enough for a few lights, refrigerator, and internet. All electric including heat pump / hot water / etc so I need more power overall. I can't wait to be able to do this with a vehicle capable of 50 amps 240v like a Cybertruck or F150 Lightning.
Linemen treat every cable as hot and will test before touching anything. The reason to disconnect your main breaker in a power outage is so you don't try to power 10 of your neighbors' houses as well and immediately overload everything, your breaker would trip almost immediately. Also when the power came back on there would be a near explosion (worse than a dead short) when the two out of phase power systems connected to each other, and again the breakers would trip immediately after a huge arc occurred.
What mower do you have?
@@TheIoniqGuy Ryobi 100 amp hour 38" riding mower. About 4.8 kWh theoretically (48v system). I have a video about it on my channel.
I just had an electrician at my home and put in this setup. I now have power to my main breaker. I tried it out and ran the furnace (fan only because it is gas burning), refrigerator, freezer and computer and modem. That is as far as I went but I will cautiously add lights when the power actually goes out. Thanks so much. Mary
Glad it worked out for you!
Thanks for the link to the Goal Zero transfer switch. I have a sub panel in my garage (no main breaker so can't use interlock) that it will work perfect for and I"ll be able to power the apartment over the garage with my car!
Excellent video that will help me. I was planning to install a manual transfer switch with a generator outlet and use a Delta Pro battery pack ($5000.00) in lieu of a stand by generator. I just purchased a Genesis GV60 which included the load adapter. This set up will save me the cost of the battery. We usually average a day of outage per year so this solution is perfect and offers us piece of mind. Thanks for your injunity.
Note that many RVs have an external 240VAC jack (twist lock) analogous to the 120VAC jack shown here.
Since many generators (and most campgrounds) can provide 240VAC (split phase) power, that makes sense.
Alas, some generators (and the V2L here) only provide one half of that, which is why RV owners also have an adaptor to feed a 120VAC extension cord to both sides of the 240VAC plug. Any actual 240V appliances won't work, but all the 120VAC circuits will. To do the same at your house, swap the single pole 15A breaker for a double pole (relocating one circuit); the interlock would apply to the new arrangement.
As in the video, turn off all the two-pole breakers (which won't work when fed from one leg anyway), and turn on whatever you need among the single-pole breakers (up to the capacity of the V2L or generator,).
Yup, this is exactly our situation. We have a subpanel with solely 120V loads, but 100A 240V feeding into it from the main panel, and the 240V loads on the main panel. The generator backfeed goes into the subpanel and feeds both busbars. So it feeds all the 120V loads on the panel, so we didn't have to move any circuits to do it.
Props! - right at 1:40 I saw what I was hoping to see - a main breaker interlock! You can always buy an inexpensive generator (relatively) and use the same receptacle just making sure you have the generator far enough from the house/garage so you don't get CO poisoning.
main breaker interlock is a great inexpensive way to protect from back phasing the grid
Obviously there's no risk of CO poisoning from an EV.
We have no 240V in the house other than the dryer (gas heating and stove/oven), so my plan is to have a simple boat-style power switch from main to car load for whenever the power fails. We're averaging about 10kWh/day, so we should be good for about 5 days, too. LED lights and power-sipping laptops go a long way in lowering overall electric consumption, it seems, even with us working from home and having lots of pot lights on for most of the day.
you need to move breakers around if you live in the USA as we have a split single phase 240 volt system. down side is you will have all your critical loads on one leg which may unbalance your system somewhat
Good video. Most breakers are made to run continuously at 80% load so loading a 15 amp breaker to 100% may not be the best of ideas. But I like the idea. Also thanks for talking about the interlock.
This is actually fine as long as the wiring is 12 gauge. You want it to trip past 15 amp because that's the upper limit of the V2L adapter (theoretically the V2L should also power down past that but another check is good too). As long as the wiring is 12 gauge (which can handle 20 amp, and 80% continuous power derating to 16 amp) then you should be good.
Terrific video. I think this is going to be a game changer for sure!keep up the great videos.
Great idea thank you so much will be hiring an electrician to setup the same system thank you also I was surprised to see that we have the same solar panel system
Awesome! I love my Enphase system.
In Canada we need a generator subpanel for any sort of back-feed or we won't pass code. But this is super interesting! Thanks for sharing.
Great video! I hope to set up a similar system. We’re installing solar in the next couple months and have the Ioniq5 on order.
What size system are you installing? Oversizing for the electric car I presume?
We’re installing 27 x 480w panels. Just under 13kW which should generate around 16MW a year on the east coast of Canada. Should cover all our car charging needs too.
Oh man, that is a monster system! Is that all going on your roof or are you doing ground mount? I thought my 430w panels were big when I got them last year. Crazy that they're at almost 500w now
They’re all going on the roof. I’m a novice at the solar power game so I’m trusting that the company installing them knows what they’re doing. They have several years experience so everything should work fine. We have net metering here but no off-peak power rates so I can’t make any extra money off the solar, but it should cover my annual power consumption.
We have net metering as well with no off peak rates. Our company banks our excess in kWh instead of a dollar figure since prices fluctuate seasonally. Unfortunately, I installed my system late summer last year so I wasn't able to bank much before the sun got low and had some $100+ bills throughout the winter.
The best trick I know to see if the grid is on/off is to open the WiFi on my phone and see if my neighbors networks show up.
👍👍
Unless they have an APC UPS backup battery from Costco to power the cable modem and router. Lol.
@@letsgobrandon1719 Does it have to be from Costco? LOL Or am I missing an in joke? Or maybe just a joke.
Possibly the optimum solution is to first start with battery backup on your PV. This doesn't need to be huge because the V2L will provide a trickle feed top up in the absence of solar via your PV charger mains input (which can be set to limit at the max V2L capability). The purpose of having a small capacity PV battery (say, 5KWh) is to provide peak load capabilities that are well beyond the capabilities of the V2L. Also overcomes the 120 240 issues you have in the US. In the UK, we are blessed with 230v V2L at 13A.
With this arrangement, you could use a high load appliance for a short period (eg. dry some clothes for an hour/ cook) drawing most of the power from the low capacity but high current capability PV battery, whilst the V2L replenishes at a constant rate.
Hi Andrew, desperately trying to find info on this, I'm from the UK and your comment is interesting. Am i understanding you correctly in that say you had a 5kw home battery you could use the Ioniq to keep that topped up with contsant trickle? I wonder who I could get to install that ind of arrangement. I am just about to get a 5kw battery and additional solar with a UPS built in as we have power cuts a lot. It sounds like a pretty straight forward alteration to the system?
@@adamhardy8690 Hi Adam, yes your understanding is correct. It's a matter of doing some calculations after monitoring your power consumption over 24hrs at various times of the year and working out how much PV battery capacity you need for peak draw periods knowing that between peaks you'll be topping up at ~2KW. Of course, if you have a large enough PV array and excess energy during peak sun, you'll be wanting to first charge the PV battery and once that's topped up, direct any excess power to the EV battery. Given the 60 to 70KWhr available in long range EV's, they can provide this load smoothing capability for quite a considerable length of time and still leave plenty for car journeys. You'd need to factor in your journey requirements and make sure you didn't draw below that level.
I just seen Enphase and there bidirectional car charger/solar inverter with V2House and V2Grid functionality. There lots of companies working on it. Just hope for good implementation
So, if I understand correctly, you would need a PV battery backup specified to be able to be charged from a generator for this scenario to work? Most home batteries right now do not support this.
@@benj8682 th-cam.com/video/XHZWGLzT7gg/w-d-xo.html
You can get a 240v v2L adapter from overseas that puts out 3.6kw split phase. You can also use the plug under the rear seat to get an additional 15A/120v to run your second phase.
Not all trims of the Ioniq 5 have the under-the-seat connector.
@@richardneel6953 true only limited/ultimate.
you said " You can also use the plug under the rear seat to get an additional 15A/120v to run your second phase"" that will not work in north america.. the reason is the fact the neutral is center taped on the step down transformer from 7 ish KV to 240 V. That is the reason you can share the neutral for a ZERO current neutral if both of the hot legs are balanced. In your suggestion the current WOULD double BAD!!!!!!!! but the 240v v2L adapter from overseas that puts out 3.6kw split phase. would work if it is TRULY 240 split phase. If it is from overseas I would bet money (not sure) that it is 240 volts hot to neutral. One would need a to construct a 240 hot neutral primary to 240 split-phase secondary output transformer and assume 12 amps on 240 split phase usable. better than below.....
for all that in North america just take a 120 volt hot to neutral primary to 240 slit phase secondary but you will only get 5 usable Amps on 240 split phase Enough to keep a refer going and a few led's.
good luck be safe and do not drop any electricity on the floor. it's shocking :)
I have a Generator input at my home in Australia. WE have all 240v Systems. I have a manual switch for change over. My KIA Niro can power all my Lights and Power points inside my Home. No stove top, oven, Hot water or Heating. I did a test recently for a 24H time period. I had a 20% draw down from the vehicle Battery. We don't loose power that frequently, but it's nice to know I have that Option. I also Have a 2.2kw Generator as a back up back up... Cheers
Have you checked out the CCS bi-directional changing protocol that is coming? Game changer as you can power your whole house from your vehicle during power outage or during peak hours for areas with time of use rates for power. Hopefully Ioniq 5 will support this in the future. See Emporia bi-directional charger for some info. This would be a good future video.
ok, this is an amazing video. before watching a video, i was thinking ok, if there's a poweroutage for multiple days, use the v2l, then cord and powerbar and fridge, freezer done deal. But seeing how you can put it back into your breaker etc etc, such an awesome video. only 3 more weeks till i might see a i5 in my drive way, and knock on wood, we rarely get power outages, if there ar eit's for 2-3 hours but a few years back we were out for 7 days, but that's very rare and few inbetween. love all your videos and have been binge watching them multiple times!
Hyundai's V2L is a neutral-bonded ground source, which means the neutral is connected to the ground. Your panel has the primary neutral-ground bound. Therefore this V2L connexion is violating the National Electrical Code which stipulates that there must be a single point where neutral is connected to ground. In this kind of setup, you usually need to run a floating-neutral generator
I also noticed that the V2L adapter allows for two orientation: ground up or ground down. This basically enables to swap hot and neutral on all powered devices. My polarity tester throws an error when I use the ground-up configuration, but not gorund-down. I don't understand this dumb decision, as the prongs on the V2L are already keyed, but not on many extension cords. This creates a situation where a switched off lightbulb would still be live, as the switch would normally be on the black wire, not on the white one.
Were you aware of this? Or I'm missing something?
This was my understanding too on a floating ground, but could not articulate this clearly. Thank you!
I just had an electrician do this for me. Only difference is my panel is in the basement. Cost about $1,200. Hopefully I never have to use it but is nice I have flexibility. Hopefully future EVs can let you output more power at once.
Great video, thanks!
Great informative video. Gives people so good ideas. I plan on using a large battery pack as a backup and then use the car to charge the battery pack. It’s an idea so I will see what the electrician thinks and go with his solution.
I sent your video to my electrician and simply said THIS IS WHAT I WANT :-)
Let me know what he comes back and says
@@TheIoniqGuy , I did the same and the electrician said sure, let me come out to estimate the work. In 6 weeks. When he finally came he said, no he would never put in a 120V generator inlet. Only 240V. Said 15A would power almost nothing, ignoring the arithmetic I had done on our appliances. Wasted 6 weeks.
Cool, Thanks. 1-2 kW from a car could be very useful during a power outage. I'd be more interested in a simpler system that isn't connected to the grid at all, if possible.
Thank you for posting awesome videos about the Ioniq 5! I am very interested in getting one, especially because of all the cool features it has, such as V2L and the design is extremely cool and unique. Just a little concerned about charging infrastructure as I am currently driving Tesla.
Thanks for this! I’ve already used the V2L once when contractors had to turn off our power for an hour (I used it to keep slow cooking the roast in the crock pot😊). It was super fun to see your setup here although I don’t think it’ll be easy for us to set up as our main panel is buried deep in the house. I plan to just plug in the chest freezer in an emergency and save the food (temperate climate, wood stove for heat, everything else will be fine). We are in the middle of solar install (Enphase also) so it was fun to see your setup.
Awesome! It's great that we've got this option now. Enjoy your solar system. You're lucky to install early in the year so you can reap the summer benefits of all that sun
Well done. Comprehensively informative down to the last detail. Thank you
That V2l fuction itself could be a big selling point for the vehicle. Very impressive what a car could do stuff that ICE vehicles can never do.
That is not true. An ICE can do this search AIMS power inverter 12 Volts DC to 240 volts Ac split phase inverter/ battery charger
@@jeffk8359 Nope! The 12V starter battery contains a tiny fraction of the energy that an EV battery has.
If you wanted to power your home for any length of time with a combustion car, then you would have to continuously also leave its dirty engine running.
@@ciaransherry6021 of course the 12 volt battery has a fraction of the energy as an EV battery please don't State the obvious while all of this green energy I completely believe in and I thoroughly understand it as I do hold a degree in physics so let's just put it out there for the record only having half of your power panel faced quite frankly is not a smart thing because that means under normal situations you're unbalancing your utility load as well we are talking emergency situations and quite frankly I don't give a damn about whether my ice engine is dirty or clean if it's a matter of lights and keeping my refrigerator going and providing enough voltage at the plug where my natural gas and or propane stove is plugged in so I can spark it then so be it
Now if my directness was offensive don't take it personally I've just found that most people who speak in these forms actually have zero concept about electricity or energy or anything else because most people are not educated now like I said above I hold a degree in physics so when I speak I speak from fact and if you're one of those people that believes that everything should be run on electricity well that's all fine and dandy if you live in Hawaii where the temperatures are always moderate I live in high heat areas and then the other part of the year it could be incredibly cold so I have to deal with 100° Plus as well as 0° all within the same year that's not the realm of a heat pump
Like I said my apologies if this was too direct for you or if it came out to be condescending I didn't mean it to be but I'm just tired of people talking about things that they may not understand
@@jeffk8359 Ah sure you're just great!
Being relatively uneducated, I defer to the humility of one who professes to have a Degree, and who worships before that Blessed Trinity of 'Me, Myself, and I.
💚🙂
The V2L can be interred by your inverted as an active grid. This will cause your panels to produce output and then the voltage might increase.
V2L feature anyway outputs up to 15A also for 250VAC 1Phase, so in this case it would be approx 3700W, in Korea it designed as 3300VA as 220V 1phase standard.
I hope that Hyundai would add another part which has 3Phase 400V V2L (for EU Type 2 AC Receptacle) or even 1Phase but 32A with Industrial receptacle. but it might not come.
And I didn't know the unlock/lock doors button is located at Passengerside door. Korean version doesnt have it...
That was excellent! Although I’d need a checklist to remember everything. Thanks! 😊
I want to see a range extended electric car with a 240V 50A hookup, that probably power my entire house. Just program the traction inverter to produce that 50-60Hz AC which has more than enough wattage then a disconnect from the traction motor. Disconnects for such a high load like traction motors would be beefy but it wouldn't have to switch under any load so minimal wear and tear.
Great video. Also, I might add powering up refrigerator is also critical during a power outage
To my mind, this ought to be a no-brainer. An EV is a huge battery on wheels storing a fair chunk of power, which should be available for more than simply driving the car. I would never attempt to emulate what this guy has done. Good luck to him but it's above my pay grade. The EV manufactures and the grid operators need to get together and supply and fit all of the electronics in a consumer package.
National Electric Code (NEC)
NEC 702.4 Capacity and Rating. (B) System Capacity. The calculated load on the standby source must be in accordance with Article 220 or by a method approved by the authority having jurisdiction. (1) Manual Transfer Equipment. The optional standby power source must have adequate capacity for all equipment intended to operate at one time as determined by the user.
great video! would love to see a follow-up on how your house is set up for solar
I am not through the whole video yet, but something like the ecoflow delta 3 pro is pretty cheap at 3k and would make your system more robust... that ecoflow will output 8kw at 220v, and has a 4kw battery... the small battery isn't an issue because your car can keep the ecoflow topped off at 110v.. so this ups what your system can handle for power spikes, lets you use 220v breakers, and would let you drive off while running off the 4kw battery to charge up the car if power comes back on in town first.
This was a really complete video. Going to do the same! thanks for this
In a cold climate what you want to be powering during a winter storm is your Furnace blower, a few lights and one or two electrical outlets to charge your phone, tablets, and power an induction cooktop, or portable induction cooktop and have ample power left in your battery to survive until the local utility is restored. You don't need all of your lights and certainly not all of your outlets to survive. Outlets that may have loads you haven't even thought about and will just drain your limited battery capacity of your EV. If you had a blizzard like Fort Erie(ON) or Buffalo (NY) had winter of 22 three days of strong winds and much snow depending where you were, trees toppling taking out the electrical grid, you might want to save the energy in your vehicles battery to last as long as necessary. My brothers off grid house was the only one in his neighborhood to have electricity to run his gas furnace off his limited 54kW Tesla power wall. His neighbors tried to run electric space heaters off generators to heat their homes. Until he went to them and hooked up their furnaces to the generators.
Very helpful! I had not really even thought of it, but I already have a generator input installed (GenerLink) and I could easily use my EV6 V2L adapter. I have an 8700 watt inverter generator for the task but it's probably overkill for most needs.
You often need the overhead to run motor based appliances (fridge, clothes washer, heat pump and HVAC, pumps) , even though the usage might idle around 100w to 300w to 1500w, starting up a large fridge that doesn’t have an inverter or starter capacitor could pull the full 30A or 40A, whatever the peak current is, up to 4kw to 7kw for a brief surge. Now, you might be able to mitigate this with 2 cars… or 3 cars, or a parallel load generator sic.
Heater elements can also sometimes spike 2.5kw because they often don’t have a slow surge, but a short spike and then switch off for a few minutes as the oven or boiler spreads the heat load around the oven/tank.
This is mitigated if you wire your house for a backup battery, since they move these heavy duty breakers and circuits off the battery/generator sub circuit just to save you installation costs and money.
I think there’s also a smart circuit breaker that costs something like $3k that can smart-break in an emergency and switches loads to different bus/circuits, or turns off breakers automatically. It’s used for high end solar installs.
If you have to supply HVAC or ovens ie Winter Heating, water heaters, etc then you have to spend a lot more to get the overload capacity, or move the house circuit to 3-phase, sic so that there’s load capacity for heavy duty appliances.
Fantastic video. Great set-up. I'm curious though - is there any kind of safety issue having the solar/battery input and "generator" input both on the panel without any exclusive switch? You've obviously done it right with the interlock to grid, but aren't you dependent on remembering to manually shut off the solar/battery breaker? Obviously you're very careful in the video and actually do it in 2 redundant spots. But what if you're not home and somebody else thinks they know how to do it? Or other viewers without as much knowledge as you? Just curious what happens if the solar/battery and the Ioniq V2L are accidently connected at the same time?
Why couldn't one split the extension cord into two with a common Y splitter and have two 15A generator inlets, one for each pole? You would still have to stay w/in 15A total, and make sure to never flip on any double breakers. But you wouldn't have to move any breakers to power the things you need. We want to power the fridge, furnace (for the blower) and a few lights and plugs at a time throughout the house.
Also, I'm puzzled about exactly which breakers were powered by the generator inlet in your video. At one point it seemed it was every other one from top to bottom, both sides, starting with intake breaker at the upper right. That matches powering the fridge at breaker 25 on the left. But when you turned off all the powered breakers before unplugging it you flipped many that were just below each other, not alternating.
Great video!
Tesla should do V2L too
They really need to
Install an LED lamp at the Main breaker to know if the power utility is back.
So once your car is plugged into the panel and the main disconnected you could use your solar to power your house during the day and the car would amp up during night.
Fantastic video, very informative. One question, doesn't the Ioniq 5 have another 120v outlet under the back seat? And if so, could you install another generator inlet to power the other half of the panel? I would assume the 15 amp maximum would be for the two legs total then.
Only one outlet can receive power at any given time so that isn't possible. You are correct that it's 15 amps between both outlets
Thanks again for that info. I haven't found details elsewhere on how the two outlets in the car interact. Much appreciated.
@@TheIoniqGuy Please see page 21 of the online owners manual for instructions to use both outlets at the same time: "Opening the charging door or
connecting the V2L connector to the charging inlet, the V2L discharging mode will shut off. If you want to use the indoor and outdoor V2L simultaneously, firstly connect the V2L connector to the charging inlet and use the indoor V2L."
I might be getting my Ioniq 5 tomorrow and looking for someone to test to to see if both outlets are limited to a total of 15A or if they are separately rated.
Thanks for letting me know about that
Exactly what I was looking for - thank you!
Nice walkthrough. Unfortunately a lot of homes (my own 1972-built home included) don't have breaker boxes conveniently located in the garage, and indeed, don't have a separate circuit for every appliance. I can't even wire my attached garage for 220 so I can put an L2 charger in there. :(
Great video. Super informative. It answered all the questions I had about this. Thanks
This was a great video with excellent presentation and very useful
You know you can purchase the europe version of the V2L and use it to power both phase of the panel, not the power hungry appliances but at least you will have all the 120vac breaker availlable and you are right, no cheap extension.
No you can’t. European cars have an entirely different charge port to those in North America
@@TheIoniqGuy I was not aware of that, I was sure the charge port was identical, thank you for the information.
Real cool but I’ll wait for the OEM setup.
Great video. Thx!
I would have put the solar back on after connecting v2l so that it could potentially add additional capacity
아주 멋진 홈 전기 시스템을 가지고있군요! 부럽네요!
감사합니다.
Is it be possible to install a battery pack meant to power everything including oven, dryer, etc. kind of like a Tesla Wall but maybe non-brand or DIY?
The idea would then be to have for instance 2 weeks of power, or about 50kWh, stored in the battery pack. You charge the car at work. When you come home, you plug in the car which will just top off the battery pack. You will probably spend more power during hours 6-22pm draining the battery pack a bit, but as you go to bed the car can catch up and will have recharged the entire battery pack in the morning. You take the car to work, recharge it, and repeat every day. Essentially, you can spend $0 on electricity if you charge for free at work. Or if you have some sort of subscription on unlimited charging, you can also save money.
Yip. This is entirely doable.
Very well done; I like your step by step explanations, its very easy to follow you. I have one question. I will receive my Ionic 5 next September (if there is no delay...) I have in front of the back seat a power outlet 120V 16A. Do you know if I can use, at the same time, this power outlet with the exterior V2L adaptor? It would double the total W available to power my house. Also, if I can use both, would you have a suggestion on how to connect it to the electric panel. Maybe a second portable generator inlet?
Thanks for the clear explanation.
I was wondering if it's really necessary to disconnect your PV invertor, assuming that you've got a single phase string invertor.
I checked with Google Bard, which came back with the answer:
"Yes, the Ioniq 5's Vehicle-to-Load (V2L) feature can be used to power a PV inverter and provide backup power for an off-grid home. The Ioniq 5's V2L port can output up to 3.6 kW of power, which is sufficient to power most inverters. Additionally, the Ioniq 5's V2L power supply is clean and stable, making it compatible with inverters"
My initial impression is that you could start up your invertor using the Ioniq 5's output, then use the Ioniq 5 and PVs in tandem to power your home.
Am I missing something here?
I don’t have a string inverter. I have Enphase micro inverters. They require a very specific frequency signal that only comes from the local utility or else they power off and cannot be powered back on until they sense that signal through the local utility.
The output is limited to 1.8 kw in the USA. 3.6 kw is only available outside the USA.
Nicely organized and clearly explained!
very useful information, thank you. 😀
@9:47 WTF is that postcard/photo stuck on the fridge? 😱
Obviously, Hyundai designed this V2L for countries that has 220V as standard. Therefore, they do have V2L adapter that is designed for 220V. I am curious if you be that version, it would work without worrying about the issues you mentioned? Or the inverter inside the car is not universal to handle both. In any case, you are genius to set it up and use it.
Unfortunately it's not as simple as just plugging another country's adapter into ours. The US uses CCS 1 and other markets use CCS 2 which has more pins. They're not interchangeable.
@@TheIoniqGuy I see. Thank you.
Interesting video. I live in the country and am on a well. The well pump is on a 220 and then so is the hot water heater. Don’t think it would be capable of running this?
Sadly no
Thanks!
Thank you!
Fantastic video! Thank you!
An easy way to see if utility power is restored, go to the electric meter. If the data display is on, you have power.
Great video 👍
I'm glad you explained that you were only feeding one phase on your panel with the V2L. Up to that point it was confusing how you got it to work. That's fine if you can move things around on your electrical panel but that might not be so easy for everyone. What about using an autotransformer to step up to 240V split phase, and feed both phases on your panel, using a 4 prong (L14-30P) generator inlet plug instead of the 3 prong one? Quibble: you are referring to Neutral as Ground in this video and that is not quite right. And question: doesn't the car see the house as a ground fault given that neutral and ground are bonded in the electrical panel? Or is the car operating as a floating generator (neutral not bonded to ground in the car)?
Very nicely & clearly explained..
Nicely done video.
So much smarter than that guy with 2 100 watt solar panels and a quackery
Great Video, and exactly what I want to do
I own a 13 kw solar system with only one powerwall and an EV. I save $500/month on gas and home electricity in Hawaii. I have power with outages and sell excess to grid. At light I am on battery. We totally seamless. I have another battery on order. I am almost off grid but Hawaiian electric is my backup to backup Plus service excess. Hawaii over 30% renewable. Not due to electric company or government but Residential rooftop solar. We pay almost 40 cents/kwh on maui and it’s increasing.
Well done!
Fantastic and incredibly informative video, thank you for putting this together. I learned a lot! May I ask which gauge wire you used from the twist-lock connector to the panel? I assume 12 gauge should be more than sufficient? I need to do a 70' run from where the car would hook into the wall all the way to my panel, but I assume 12ga would be good enough for that too considering the 1800w maximum?
Yes I used 12AWG. You’ll have to upsize to 10 AWG to compensate for voltage drop. That’s a long run.
@@TheIoniqGuy Thanks for the quick reply, I'll run 10 AWG then. :).
I was quite sure, V2L sends 3600W, not just 1800W. Is there a difference between european and american Ioniq5?
Europe’s is 240V so you get twice as much power output
Finally got my Ioniq5 2023 LR RWD Preffered on Feb 23rd 2023... Super happy. My electrician is passing by May 1st. But he was worried about thet fact that the ioniq 5 is on 4 rubber wheels... So the car cannot provide a HARD GROUND but just a FLOATING one... He was worried for the electronics of the fridge/tv/modem/computer etc.... Do you understand what he means ? How is this addressed or solved by the using of the V2L? Thanks so much for ALL your videos. You are a reference for me. Greatly appreciate an answer soon. (Before May 1st! lol ) Thanks a lot.
:)
I'll preface this by saying I am not a licensed electrician (and am years removed from my training) nor am I an electrical engineer. The electrical circuits throughout your home are still grounded and bonded to the ground rods which are big metal rods driven into the Earth so any short circuit would still be directed to the Earth grounds as they are the path of least resistance. If someone else is better versed in this, please chime in. I only use this setup for emergencies and in an emergency, I'm willing to accept that amount of risk as they occur few and far between. Many people have been using this setup based on my video to power their homes in emergency situations and I have yet to hear that something happened due to it. But again, please do your own research or listen to your licensed electrician. Also keep in mind, does a portable gas generator have an Earth ground? No, it doesn't. They're typically just sitting on a driveway.
How to use solar panels to charge the car when line power is off line? No street input shuts down solar, but car could supply 120VAC - would that turn the panels back on? If so, how?
It's a shame you used Enphase microinverters for your solar panels - you could have just used DC string inverters with backup batteries and an inverter to 240V/120V to the house panel, and the ability to take or feed power back to the grid. For example, an EG-4 18K system with 48V LFP batteries (minimum three at 100Ah each) supports up to 18KW of solar panels and 12KW of 240VAC. You could have a grid power outage and not even notice unless your loads exceed the 12KW (50 Amps at 240V), and for safety, the 18K automatically disconnects with grid down (anti-islanding). Your car cannot rival that power as it's 120V only at maybe 15Amps, but it could be a backup-backup.
That looks like a 30amp twist lock seen on many generators
Great information! My only question is . . . what happens when those 5 days are up, and you still don't have any power to the 240V plug to recharge your car? You may have some battery power left to drive somewhere nearby, but I would assume if you don't have power still, the charging stations won't either. Then what? Is there a way to get your solar panels to power the car without the 240V charger?
Yes, I’ve been considering getting a separate solar inverter that would be able to be installed separate from the grid so it would be able to charge the car regardless of the state of grid power.