Im a single father with a 12 year old daughter . I work 45 hours a week to try snd makes ends meet . I cant tell you how much this video meant to me ( us ) . Our washer has been barely spinning for months . I searched the internet trying to find an answer . I went out on a limb and paid 50 dollars for a new clutch from a local alliance repair shop . I watched your video probably 15 times and had the old clutch out and the new clutch in within an hour . Thank you so much . Now we have a washer that works .
That WILL fix it - but next time look for the "COUPLING" behind the motor (accessible through the bottom once you "unfold" the washer") VERY easy fix - clutch probably came with both new couplings and black ring (with 6 holes in it) 3 holes for each coupling... those two/three little parts make the entire washer work - it's like it's heart and soul xD
@@pattywalker5022 Yes! I fixed my own Kenmore dryer with $50 in parts from Amazon. So great to put TH-cam skills to use and save some money! Great work!
Dude you just saved me hundreds. Washer slowly quit spinning well and last night finally gave up. Ordered a 20 dollar part on Amazon and had it fixed in no time. THANK YOU!!!!
Very helpful video. Thank you. My washer and dryer both went out on me at the same time so I'm here finding out how to do the repairs myself. Even if I had the money to hire a repair man, I would still do it myself to save money. I like fixing things though. It gives me a sense of accomplishment and purpose. Although as of today either my air conditioning is on the fritz or the blower on the furnace isn't working properly! I can't seem to get a break! Ugh. I fixed my dishwasher a month ago. It was a $14.99 part. I'm a 49 yr old woman with teenage daughters. I'm trying to teach them how to be self-reliant and repair things instead of replacing to cut down on waste and unnecessary purchases.
This is a Whirlpool Direct Drive washing machine. Made various models for about a 30 year production run. Incredibly easy to work on and very dependable. Parts available on EBay , Amazon, and local appliance repair shops. People throw these away because they are “old” when in reality they last 3-4 times longer then most new washers. Also NO computers or mother boards to break . Yeah many people will wish they kept and repaired them when they are all gone.
Thanks!! 6 years later, the link you provided for the clutch kit on Amazon is still the best (cheapest) place I found to get the OEM/Genuine parts. Looks like the seller (Cashwell appliance parts) is semi-local to me, but I checked the part on their website and it was $44, compared to ~$22 for the part (including shipping) from the same seller on Amazon. So I bought it and let them deliver it to my door for 1/2 off their walk in retail price. Not a great way to do business IMHO, but the part worked great. Washer spins like a champ now!!!!
Thank you for posting, I was able to diagnose and repair my washer without calling a repair person. It was easy with the detailed step by step instructions you gave!!
This video was awesome. Very well explained. I replaced the clutch, drain pump, plastic part between motor and transmission and washer dogs on my machine. Working very well now. If it helps anyone, my agitator was removed first by using a half inch ratchet extension ( Seen in another video) which then revealed a 9/16 bolt to be removed .
I’m also getting one of these when I finally get my house as well. A stockpile of parts will be in place when I do get one. I’ll gladly spend $150.00 to $250.00 on one of these used before I spend $800.00 to $1,100.00 on a brand new one that can only do half the stuff that these old workhorse like Whirlpools and Sears Kenmore Direct-Drives can do. They’re nothing but garbage anyway. And as you showed, there very easy to work on and to fix and repair if something go wrong with it. These lasted 25 years or longer when they were brand new. Get it fixed up and gone through really good, I’ll probably get another 20-25 out of mine before I’ll either die, and then leave it in my old house when I’m gone. Or I’ll finally throw it out when there no more parts to buy for it, and if I’m still living, I’ll probably replace it with a Speed Queen, provided their still around, they’re still making their washers the old way they seem to be still making them now (sans 2018, of course). If fixed up very well, there’s no reason why this washer won’t out live me. If a 67 year old woman can fix it up and keep it working, then there’s no reason why a 56 year old (and nearly 60 year man) like me can do the same thing to his. These were good washers when they were out. I don’t know why Whirlpool stopped making them in the first place. Great Job Sir.... -Charles-
Getting the retainer ring back in was a little tricky. It doesn't really thread in, as said. First, make sure that all four of the white plastic tabs are coming through (from the bottom side) properly. Then make sure that the four metal slots go all the way on the motor so everything is seated properly. Then I put the tang end in the hole, and held the ring down with one thumb positioned just past the tang (in the clockwise direction). Then I used the tip of a flat screwdriver to push the loose end of the ring toward the center (to make the diameter smaller). At the same time, I pushed the screwdriver down at an angle. If the screwdriver isn't angled down some, you probably won't be able to get the ring in. The ring has to go OVER the top (of the last one or two of the four shapes formed into the metal on the motor side), then inside.The angled-down position also helps to keep the screwdriver tip from sliding off, possibly gouging your other hand.The flat blade is positioned vertically, and it should be centered on the wire of the ring.
Nice Video! Tim Hill said what I was thinking - There is a COUPLING in the BOTTOM - You have to remove 2-4 clamps and 2 screws and the motor comes out - I literally JUST did this TODAY on our Kenmore Washer - I found a guy who owns a shop who happened to have a coupling and the small black round piece with 6 holes in it that holds both couplings (there are actually two - one facing one way the other (the one that usually breaks) facing the other way - Once you get the motor off it's REALLY easy to to replace that coupling(s) - Washer is running... spinning AND draining again after replacing that coupling and black ring it goes into (the ring was worn out too) ... $8 (in parts) - I think in your case it really was a BAD CLUTCH - but always check those couplings FIRST (anybody else that encounters this problem) when NO SPIN check the lid switch 1st - if that isn't it 90% of the time it's those little couplings... @11:36 you can see the couplings/black ring CLEARLY (between the clutch and motor)
Bro! I underestimated the "heaving and hoeing" that is needed to pull the trany out. This video saved me from buying a whole new washer. Thanks for the great video. My washer started out with a weak spin and eventually stopped spinning. Ordered a new clutch and motor coupling but coupling wasnt broken, but i replaced it anyways because why not.
Do you have any tips for removing? Mine is stuck. Ive pulled and pulled and even beat the shaft from the top with a rubber mallet. I can't get it freed! Any help would be great!
Very good video for me - my machine also. Looks very heavy duty made. It is helpful to remove the agitator side - in upright position, and then go underneath. Also I find it helpful to have a camera person or to be looing at my thru the view finder/camera screen.
This washer is exactly the same as mine, that stopped spinning last night. Hoping to find a clutch kit at a local appliance repair place or Sears today, so I can get back to doing laundry. Thanks for the detailed replacement procedure. At least now I feel like I know what to expect, when I start taking things apart.
I've found the motor area is easier to access if you loosen and pull the body forward as it was intended rather than lay the unit on its side. All of the clamps were made to disengage from the front as well.
Great Video, Helped me fix my kenmore! My clutch was okay, but the cam was busted. The cam was included in the clutch kit, so it was still $ well spent. Thanks!
Thank you so much! This was just like my machine. Only mine did not have the little black thingy, but everything went into place just like you explained. :-)
That little black thingy holds the couplings together and makes it spin... maybe yours is a newer model where they went ahead and designed it differently :/
How the gearbox, aka transmission, works is brilliant and well worth taking a look inside. My friend was looking at my spare gearbox, as he had done on and off over several months when he experienced something quite unexpected, "holy shit it just popped into my head. I know how it works! I'm pretty sure i just had my first eureka moment too, I can't believe how good I feel over a washing machine." Our wive did not share in his enthusiasm as he attempted to explain his discovery. Yup, we are different. Thanks for the video. Cheers, Jim
It's 2022 .. great video .. im about to try .. because the last time checked the coup links wasn't damaged. I found this video .. I did notice oil was leaking from the transmission.. I think I have to change both clutch and transmission.. wish me luck 🤣🤣🤣
Here's an important tip guys.... I you install that thrust washer THEN the retainer clip, you will get a REALLY annoying click click click when it's doing the agitation. Don't ask how I know this. :-/ I found it easier to just remove the motor off the transmission, only 2 clips hold it on anyway. This is also a good time to spend 8bucks and change the motor to transmission rubber coupling.
My washer will spin sometimes. If the loaf is too heavyit won't spin. Sometimes I can spin the tub by hand and it will spin. Could this be the clutch or the coupler?
One minor detail: the rocket looking thing (15:25) is actually supposed to sit the other way as it's a cup for liquid softener. Otherwise...you just saved my gizzard! Replacement parts are SO much cheaper! And this washer...we've had it for YEARS.
@@hykos1045 Sure, but I can do that with mine, too--he and I have the same model--but the intended purpose of the "rocket looking thing" is for it to be open side up for liquid softener. It's possible that for shipping and handling purposes it ships cone side up.
Okay this is what I was here for because I cleaned mine and replaced it but now I am here for the clutch I’ve noticed the fabric softener inverted on when he repaired. Was wondering if I have done it incorrectly. One thing I’ve noticed is that my softener disperses immediately with same amount post cleaning. Although it is flush now I will think about turning for “lock” method. Usually it disperses only when on spin cycle. Once more. Thank you inquiring eyes and mind. Xo
@@gipzcarnelli4728 Yes, for liquid fabric softener, you want it to be open side up, cone down. It balances a little precariously, but that's how it's supposed to be as the softener is meant to be added during a later phase (a little will spill and it won't kill anything, but that's the design of the work flow).
Before ordering any parts check the white plastic cam. Most of the time one of the two nipples will be worn off causing it not to engage, thus causing a no spin situation. Also, if there are any worn areas or little hairline cracks on the motor coupler, this will cause a no spin situation.
The pump clips and motor clips are more easily removed if you remove the cover completely and work from the front of the machine. For pulling the transmission to get to the clutch as he does here, having the machine on its side IS nice.
I have a question. My coupler was broken and I repaired it and it appeared to be fixed except for it only lasted 2 minutes or so and then stopped spinning and agitating at all. Does that mean then that the clutch would be my next step to try? Or do you think something else is going on?
Be sure to get a genuine OEM Whirlpool clutch kit. The packaging will say made in US or Mex. It costs a little more & is worth it. The dirt cheap parts on EB are made in china >> DO NOT get made in china crap. I just refurbished my washer & only installed made in USA parts and just spent an extra $30 or maybe less >> drive block, spanner nut, seal & bearing kit, tub seal, clutch, Dr/Br assy w top seal, cntr-bal spring plus a capacitor. After refurbishing & repair, 25-yr old washer is now almost like new.
Hank I replace the clutch and on the test it and it made a grinding noise. Pulled it apart again and found it had shredded off shavings of the clutch pad. What would cause this on a new clutch?
Help needed. Just changed the clutch, as the old one was loose as shown in the video. But the washer still doesn't spin properly. The motor runs, the drum barely moves, or spins slowly if I push the drum a bit. Any idea what else may be wrong?
Great video, thank you..... simple question, would the clutch be the same issue if it intermittently spins in between wash/rinse and the final rinse? Mine agitates fine (I replaced the dog agits a few months back) but now it doesn't always spin, sometimes it does sometimes I have to restart the spin cycle. I can usually hear if it's not engaging and I'll usually just have to open the lid and close it a few times for it to kick start and spin the clothes
Sounds like it could be a board or wiring issue, you can try replacing the clutch as it is cheap enough and should honestly be done anyways as preventative maintenance, then you can check over everything else while you are in there
Sound like the lid switch would be a likely suspect on this one. The switch on mine works. Switch clicks, motor hums...but that's all! I should go downstairs and put the transmission back together, but this is easier....
Hank, I can't seem to get the agitator off the drive shaft. There's the nut I unscrewed and all the top parts but that damn thing wouldn't budge. Any suggestions? Thanks.
@@hanksgarage_ Exactly what I did. I hit down on it a couple times and it must have broken the gunk along the inside of the shaft. Came out fine, went back in fine. Thanks so much!! Saved me hundreds of $$$.
I did 4 different troubleshooting steps as shown on TH-cam: 1 switch inside door, it was not broken nor loose, but I did unscrew and clean up and retighten. The switch does open when door is closed. (2) I looked at plastic spinner that engages the engine shaft, no broken pieces or cracks. I disassembled to remove transmission and engine, observing that the clutch is NOT loose or moved by hand. It is very hard to move. (4) I checked inside the pump, no debris or broken pieces. All these steps do NOT solve my "no drain/spin. Please advise what is next step. Thank you!!!
@@felipedejesusecheveste1227 look at 14:26. The 4 tiny yellowish pieces of plastic, those are the agitator dogs. They are intended to cause a countermovement of the top piece of the agitator with respect to the main botom agitator. Due to these dogs, the upper agitator should spin "free" when rotating one way, and spin hardly tied with the bottom agitator when rotating the other way. This is because the dogs are pivoted and only act in one way, not the other. And all of this countermovement is what cause the clothes to constantly move inside the washer, getting cleaned because of the movements. Sorry of my explanation was not good enough, as spanish is my native language .
I’m trying to do this and the transmission just won’t go back in. I have the washing machine tilted against the wall and I’m trying to put the rod back in and putting it back in about 1/4 or 1/3 of an inch it stops before aligning with the bolts on the bottom. I can see the rod coming out of the middle in the inside of the machine but I just can’t figure out with the bolts can’t go right up against the holes to screw in. Does anyone know why this is?
There is something getting in the way. It should not do that. Or the rod is not aligned properly. It’s been a while since I made this vid can’t remember too well.
Good afternoon, Hank I just finished the clutch replacement and upon reassembly I get this clicking sound, and there's no sniping the water fully out of the cloth. What could I be doing wrong?
its turning but this is a neutral drain type. It should not be spinning while empying the water. It spins once the water is gone. The transmission neutral drain parts need to be replaced, about 25 dollars and easy to replace.
Repair the the damn hoose omg you just made me laugh jjajjahahahaha funny guy ajjajajahahs keep up these videos please I’m agirl I just learned ethos mis Is so cool
Not sure if my washer has a clutch problem,I can hear the motor working and it does everything else,such as draining water,fill,etc but it wouldn’t agitate or spin, but there’s times that it would spin,so I check the agitator dogs and they were worn out,could the worn out agitator dogs also cause it not to spin?thanks
Happened to me everything worked but agitator wouldn't spin. Come to find out, the nylon agitator dogs were worn and it was $6 to replace them. Works like a charm now.
Super Man well I replace the agit dogs,motor coupling,clutch assembly,& lid switch but it still doesn’t spin The only way it would spin is when I manually rock the tub back and forth for a while then close lid and it spins.
I am trying to get the bolt off so I can pull the transmission out, and cannot find the correct size ratchet for it. You say in the video you believe the bolt is 7/16". I even tried a 1/2 and it appears to be too small. Would you think this is pretty universal for that nut? I am so close!
7/16" hex head on the bolt, unless you have a different washer. Mine is a Whirlpool, but Whirlpool made that Kenmore, so it should be the same. Lefty-loosey?
Im a single father with a 12 year old daughter . I work 45 hours a week to try snd makes ends meet . I cant tell you how much this video meant to me ( us ) . Our washer has been barely spinning for months . I searched the internet trying to find an answer . I went out on a limb and paid 50 dollars for a new clutch from a local alliance repair shop . I watched your video probably 15 times and had the old clutch out and the new clutch in within an hour . Thank you so much . Now we have a washer that works .
TheBeaver50 You got ripped off on your parts.
New clutches are only about $10 online (Amazon or eBay).
Yes, the local Appliance repair shop certainly made a profit, but TheBeaver50 got the job done...I say Nice Job!
That WILL fix it - but next time look for the "COUPLING" behind the motor (accessible through the bottom once you "unfold" the washer") VERY easy fix - clutch probably came with both new couplings and black ring (with 6 holes in it) 3 holes for each coupling... those two/three little parts make the entire washer work - it's like it's heart and soul xD
What is the model #. I bought what looks like yours but no model #. Nice video and thank you for the time you spent to help others.
Very easy to follow! I repaired by myself and I am a 67 year old woman!! Thank you so much.
I also would like to point out I received parts by mail Amazon in 2 days and for coupler and clutch only cost me 35.00! Thank you again!
@@pattywalker5022 Yes! I fixed my own Kenmore dryer with $50 in parts from Amazon. So great to put TH-cam skills to use and save some money! Great work!
Rock on lady!
Bravo Patty, nice job!
Nothing sexier then a woman that turn her own wrench.
I mean .... doesn’t need a man.
I mean .... doesn’t mind getting dirty.
Oh 🤨.... nice job 😁
Thank you on helping me fix my 22 year old Kenmore washer, saved me hundreds in repair or replacement
Just used your video to replace the clutch and coupler in my washing machine. $75 and an hour of my time and it works! Thanks!
Dude you just saved me hundreds. Washer slowly quit spinning well and last night finally gave up. Ordered a 20 dollar part on Amazon and had it fixed in no time. THANK YOU!!!!
Very helpful video. Thank you. My washer and dryer both went out on me at the same time so I'm here finding out how to do the repairs myself. Even if I had the money to hire a repair man, I would still do it myself to save money. I like fixing things though. It gives me a sense of accomplishment and purpose. Although as of today either my air conditioning is on the fritz or the blower on the furnace isn't working properly! I can't seem to get a break! Ugh. I fixed my dishwasher a month ago. It was a $14.99 part. I'm a 49 yr old woman with teenage daughters. I'm trying to teach them how to be self-reliant and repair things instead of replacing to cut down on waste and unnecessary purchases.
+Kim Possible right on. Needs to be more like you. Too many people these days throw things away over such simple fixes
Hank is very easy to follow I fixed a Kirby Vacuum put a new fan on I'm glad you made this video Thank You I'm a 64 year old woman .
This is a Whirlpool Direct Drive washing machine. Made various models for about a 30 year production run. Incredibly easy to work on and very dependable. Parts available on EBay , Amazon, and local appliance repair shops. People throw these away because they are “old” when in reality they last 3-4 times longer then most new washers. Also NO computers or mother boards to break . Yeah many people will wish they kept and repaired them when they are all gone.
Thanks!! 6 years later, the link you provided for the clutch kit on Amazon is still the best (cheapest) place I found to get the OEM/Genuine parts. Looks like the seller (Cashwell appliance parts) is semi-local to me, but I checked the part on their website and it was $44, compared to ~$22 for the part (including shipping) from the same seller on Amazon. So I bought it and let them deliver it to my door for 1/2 off their walk in retail price. Not a great way to do business IMHO, but the part worked great. Washer spins like a champ now!!!!
Thank you for posting, I was able to diagnose and repair my washer without calling a repair person. It was easy with the detailed step by step instructions you gave!!
This video was awesome. Very well explained. I replaced the clutch, drain pump, plastic part between motor and transmission and washer dogs on my machine. Working very well now. If it helps anyone, my agitator was removed first by using a half inch ratchet extension ( Seen in another video) which then revealed a 9/16 bolt to be removed .
I’m also getting one of these when I finally get my house as well.
A stockpile of parts will be in place when I do get one.
I’ll gladly spend $150.00 to $250.00 on one of these used before I spend $800.00 to $1,100.00 on a brand new one that can only do half the stuff that these old workhorse like Whirlpools and Sears Kenmore Direct-Drives can do. They’re nothing but garbage anyway.
And as you showed, there very easy to work on and to fix and repair if something go wrong with it.
These lasted 25 years or longer when they were brand new.
Get it fixed up and gone through really good, I’ll probably get another 20-25 out of mine before I’ll either die, and then leave it in my old house when I’m gone.
Or I’ll finally throw it out when there no more parts to buy for it, and if I’m still living, I’ll probably replace it with a Speed Queen, provided their still around, they’re still making their washers the old way they seem to be still making them now (sans 2018, of course).
If fixed up very well, there’s no reason why this washer won’t out live me.
If a 67 year old woman can fix it up and keep it working, then there’s no reason why a 56 year old (and nearly 60 year man) like me can do the same thing to his.
These were good washers when they were out.
I don’t know why Whirlpool stopped making them in the first place.
Great Job Sir....
-Charles-
Getting the retainer ring back in was a little tricky. It doesn't really thread in, as said. First, make sure that all four of the white plastic tabs are coming through (from the bottom side) properly. Then make sure that the four metal slots go all the way on the motor so everything is seated properly. Then I put the tang end in the hole, and held the ring down with one thumb positioned just past the tang (in the clockwise direction). Then I used the tip of a flat screwdriver to push the loose end of the ring toward the center (to make the diameter smaller). At the same time, I pushed the screwdriver down at an angle. If the screwdriver isn't angled down some, you probably won't be able to get the ring in. The ring has to go OVER the top (of the last one or two of the four shapes formed into the metal on the motor side), then inside.The angled-down position also helps to keep the screwdriver tip from sliding off, possibly gouging your other hand.The flat blade is positioned vertically, and it should be centered on the wire of the ring.
This video is super helpful. I almost had it off just didn’t know what bolt to use. Thanks for sharing.
Labor wise, it took all of 30 minutes. Simple and clear. Thanks!
Nice Video! Tim Hill said what I was thinking - There is a COUPLING in the BOTTOM - You have to remove 2-4 clamps and 2 screws and the motor comes out - I literally JUST did this TODAY on our Kenmore Washer - I found a guy who owns a shop who happened to have a coupling and the small black round piece with 6 holes in it that holds both couplings (there are actually two - one facing one way the other (the one that usually breaks) facing the other way - Once you get the motor off it's REALLY easy to to replace that coupling(s) - Washer is running... spinning AND draining again after replacing that coupling and black ring it goes into (the ring was worn out too) ... $8 (in parts) - I think in your case it really was a BAD CLUTCH - but always check those couplings FIRST (anybody else that encounters this problem) when NO SPIN check the lid switch 1st - if that isn't it 90% of the time it's those little couplings... @11:36 you can see the couplings/black ring CLEARLY (between the clutch and motor)
Bro! I underestimated the "heaving and hoeing" that is needed to pull the trany out. This video saved me from buying a whole new washer. Thanks for the great video. My washer started out with a weak spin and eventually stopped spinning. Ordered a new clutch and motor coupling but coupling wasnt broken, but i replaced it anyways because why not.
Do you have any tips for removing? Mine is stuck. Ive pulled and pulled and even beat the shaft from the top with a rubber mallet. I can't get it freed! Any help would be great!
@Hector Cortez-aponte-cabrera still no tips from anyone. Ive surrendered unfortunately.
@Hector Cortez-aponte-cabrera ikr? 🤞good luck! Let me know what you figure out!
It should come right out if you got all the retainer clips removed from the shaft inside the tub. Pull harder!
Still relevant today… Kenmore series 80👌🏽👏🏽
Very good video for me - my machine also. Looks very heavy duty made. It is helpful to remove the agitator side - in upright position, and then go underneath.
Also I find it helpful to have a camera person or to be looing at my thru the view finder/camera screen.
thank you very much. ..now I know how to fix my washer. ..this video helped a lot
This washer is exactly the same as mine, that stopped spinning last night. Hoping to find a clutch kit at a local appliance repair place or Sears today, so I can get back to doing laundry. Thanks for the detailed replacement procedure. At least now I feel like I know what to expect, when I start taking things apart.
I've found the motor area is easier to access if you loosen and pull the body forward as it was intended rather than lay the unit on its side. All of the clamps were made to disengage from the front as well.
100%
Great Video, Helped me fix my kenmore! My clutch was okay, but the cam was busted. The cam was included in the clutch kit, so it was still $ well spent. Thanks!
Great video, it really helped me fix my washer. Thank you for making it.
Great video on this, getting ready to replace this clutch assy. on my daughters kenmore, this will really help.
thanks
2019 and still works for me, thank you for taking time to explain everything.
This saved a lot of time and money. God bless you
Thank you so much! This was just like my machine. Only mine did not have the little black thingy, but everything went into place just like you explained. :-)
That little black thingy holds the couplings together and makes it spin... maybe yours is a newer model where they went ahead and designed it differently :/
Good deal. I just did this but got the wrong clutch so I needed to reuse my blue spring. They're color coded but the clutch packs are all the same.
thanks a lot brother because of you and this video I was able to fix my washing machine
Glad I could help
Very well done...off I go to swap this thing out
Thanks brother.....I GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP!!!!!!
GOD BLESS
How the gearbox, aka transmission, works is brilliant and well worth taking a look inside. My friend was looking at my spare gearbox, as he had done on and off over several months when he experienced something quite unexpected, "holy shit it just popped into my head. I know how it works! I'm pretty sure i just had my first eureka moment too, I can't believe how good I feel over a washing machine." Our wive did not share in his enthusiasm as he attempted to explain his discovery. Yup, we are different. Thanks for the video. Cheers,
Jim
I think I'de probably be the same way as you guys!
I share your joy! This is my favorite washer: simple, dependable, easy to work on, and parts are cheap.
It's 2022 .. great video .. im about to try .. because the last time checked the coup links wasn't damaged. I found this video .. I did notice oil was leaking from the transmission.. I think I have to change both clutch and transmission.. wish me luck 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you for your in depth video. It really helps!
Here's an important tip guys.... I you install that thrust washer THEN the retainer clip, you will get a REALLY annoying click click click when it's doing the agitation. Don't ask how I know this. :-/
I found it easier to just remove the motor off the transmission, only 2 clips hold it on anyway. This is also a good time to spend 8bucks and change the motor to transmission rubber coupling.
My washer will spin sometimes. If the loaf is too heavyit won't spin. Sometimes I can spin the tub by hand and it will spin. Could this be the clutch or the coupler?
Very nice and well done!! I had the same problem and this made it easy to follow. Thank you!!
Thank you so much for this detailed, concise video. Made things so much easier :D
Glad it helped!!
Thanks for sharing. You give me all of the confidence in the world.
One minor detail: the rocket looking thing (15:25) is actually supposed to sit the other way as it's a cup for liquid softener. Otherwise...you just saved my gizzard! Replacement parts are SO much cheaper! And this washer...we've had it for YEARS.
Glad it helped, thanks for the input!
I am not even sure if that is true because he threaded it and it lined up. There may be different models with slightly different characteristics.
@@hykos1045 Sure, but I can do that with mine, too--he and I have the same model--but the intended purpose of the "rocket looking thing" is for it to be open side up for liquid softener. It's possible that for shipping and handling purposes it ships cone side up.
Okay this is what I was here for because I cleaned mine and replaced it but now I am here for the clutch I’ve noticed the fabric softener inverted on when he repaired. Was wondering if I have done it incorrectly. One thing I’ve noticed is that my softener disperses immediately with same amount post cleaning. Although it is flush now I will think about turning for “lock” method. Usually it disperses only when on spin cycle. Once more. Thank you inquiring eyes and mind. Xo
@@gipzcarnelli4728 Yes, for liquid fabric softener, you want it to be open side up, cone down. It balances a little precariously, but that's how it's supposed to be as the softener is meant to be added during a later phase (a little will spill and it won't kill anything, but that's the design of the work flow).
Thanks to this video I was able to fix my washer. Thought about waiting for my husband to do it but decided to do it myself!
right on glad it helped!
great vid, very detailed and easy to understand,
I sure miss these types of washers😢
Before ordering any parts check the white plastic cam. Most of the time one of the two nipples will be worn off causing it not to engage, thus causing a no spin situation. Also, if there are any worn areas or little hairline cracks on the motor coupler, this will cause a no spin situation.
Thank you you help me fix my washer!!
Nice clean machine for a garbage pick! You lucked out! Great machine that will last a long time!
The pump clips and motor clips are more easily removed if you remove the cover completely and work from the front of the machine. For pulling the transmission to get to the clutch as he does here, having the machine on its side IS nice.
Trying to fix my mom’s washer, the agitator turns back and forth but the basket doesn’t spin at all. Would this be the answer?
I agree why not if I knew how to fix appliances I would do the same thing very helpful 👍🏽
looks easy...ill be trying it this weekend...hope all goes well
Tried it today and I did it, your vid helped alot. Thanks
Sweet man ya its a cheap easy fix much better than paying a repair man 10x as much
Very good..my frend.s....wellcome. Sonora. Mexico. Thank you
I have a question. My coupler was broken and I repaired it and it appeared to be fixed except for it only lasted 2 minutes or so and then stopped spinning and agitating at all. Does that mean then that the clutch would be my next step to try? Or do you think something else is going on?
I was just wondering did this machine also not agitate? Thank you
Thank you Sir for posting this video.
Be sure to get a genuine OEM Whirlpool clutch kit. The packaging will say made in US or Mex. It costs a little more & is worth it. The dirt cheap parts on EB are made in china >> DO NOT get made in china crap. I just refurbished my washer & only installed made in USA parts and just spent an extra $30 or maybe less >> drive block, spanner nut, seal & bearing kit, tub seal, clutch, Dr/Br assy w top seal, cntr-bal spring plus a capacitor. After refurbishing & repair, 25-yr old washer is now almost like new.
This video was clear and helpful. Great info. Thanks.
Nice presentation and good technique, but the longer I watched the video, I got
dizzy because the camera moves a lot
holy smokes this makes the coupler job look simple. If it's the cluctch I'm trashing it too!
Ikon don't trash it, fix it. The new ones don't wash as well and only last a few years.
Thanks man! I'mma try!
What a big help your video was thank you
great video mine turned out to be the coupler--
Thanks brother great job!!💥💥💥. Can you make one for maytag machine because that type of machine doesn't fill up before spinning or agitator on.
Very helpful thanks Buddy!!!
Hi I just change the clutch but still not spinning when its starts washing but when is drying it spinning good any ideas would help thanks
Ok just wondering why you haven't put one up in a week but I watch all your videos and I like the vacuum tune-up videos
+Dylan Gleason Sounds good buddy should have a mower vid up tomorrow
Hank's Small Engine Repair
Hank I replace the clutch and on the test it and it made a grinding noise. Pulled it apart again and found it had shredded off shavings of the clutch pad. What would cause this on a new clutch?
Thanks u...u made it look too easy..
Help needed. Just changed the clutch, as the old one was loose as shown in the video. But the washer still doesn't spin properly. The motor runs, the drum barely moves, or spins slowly if I push the drum a bit. Any idea what else may be wrong?
Maybe the rubber/plastic coupler between the motor and trans is damaged. That is what was wrong with mine.
Appreciate this man saved me a lot of money
Awesome! Parts arriving tomorrow. :)
Great video, thank you..... simple question, would the clutch be the same issue if it intermittently spins in between wash/rinse and the final rinse? Mine agitates fine (I replaced the dog agits a few months back) but now it doesn't always spin, sometimes it does sometimes I have to restart the spin cycle. I can usually hear if it's not engaging and I'll usually just have to open the lid and close it a few times for it to kick start and spin the clothes
Sounds like it could be a board or wiring issue, you can try replacing the clutch as it is cheap enough and should honestly be done anyways as preventative maintenance, then you can check over everything else while you are in there
thank you, I'll definitely give that a try this weekend will order that asap and keep you posted. Thank you for the reply
Sound like the lid switch would be a likely suspect on this one. The switch on mine works. Switch clicks, motor hums...but that's all! I should go downstairs and put the transmission back together, but this is easier....
Looking for a way to get to the agitator dogs...can't get the dog assembly to drop out of the agitator. Ideas?
3:49 I don't see these parts in my Whirlpool. I am wondering if It was like this or I lost it?
Hank, I can't seem to get the agitator off the drive shaft. There's the nut I unscrewed and all the top parts but that damn thing wouldn't budge. Any suggestions? Thanks.
May have to use a rubber mallet and give a few good whacks.
@@hanksgarage_ Exactly what I did. I hit down on it a couple times and it must have broken the gunk along the inside of the shaft. Came out fine, went back in fine. Thanks so much!! Saved me hundreds of $$$.
I did 4 different troubleshooting steps as shown on TH-cam: 1 switch inside door, it was not broken nor loose, but I did unscrew and clean up and retighten. The switch does open when door is closed. (2) I looked at plastic spinner that engages the engine shaft, no broken pieces or cracks. I disassembled to remove transmission and engine, observing that the clutch is NOT loose or moved by hand. It is very hard to move. (4) I checked inside the pump, no debris or broken pieces.
All these steps do NOT solve my "no drain/spin. Please advise what is next step. Thank you!!!
Trying to wiggle the transmission back in a 2 inch gold color pin falls out of nowhere , any body know where it goes?
Do you happen to have the mode number for that particular washer machine? The sticker on mine wore off.
Offhand no sorry I don’t have this anymore either
The coupler to my washer spins but the tub does not spin. Should I even bother replacing the coupler? Should I change the clutch?
I would go ahead and replace both
Great video!! Thank you.
For 4 bucks I would always go ahead and install new agitator dogs when doing a clutch.....just a personal preference.
What are agitator dogs?
@@felipedejesusecheveste1227 look at 14:26. The 4 tiny yellowish pieces of plastic, those are the agitator dogs. They are intended to cause a countermovement of the top piece of the agitator with respect to the main botom agitator. Due to these dogs, the upper agitator should spin "free" when rotating one way, and spin hardly tied with the bottom agitator when rotating the other way. This is because the dogs are pivoted and only act in one way, not the other. And all of this countermovement is what cause the clothes to constantly move inside the washer, getting cleaned because of the movements. Sorry of my explanation was not good enough, as spanish is my native language .
Lots of help thank you
Great video
I’m trying to do this and the transmission just won’t go back in. I have the washing machine tilted against the wall and I’m trying to put the rod back in and putting it back in about 1/4 or 1/3 of an inch it stops before aligning with the bolts on the bottom. I can see the rod coming out of the middle in the inside of the machine but I just can’t figure out with the bolts can’t go right up against the holes to screw in. Does anyone know why this is?
There is something getting in the way. It should not do that. Or the rod is not aligned properly. It’s been a while since I made this vid can’t remember too well.
Where can I get the number part for my washer machine?
Great video. Oone question, why the extra spring that comes with the new clutch assembly?
honestly I have no idea, could be an extra just in case it gets lost
I going to hang on to this thing and if I ever have the clutch problem again, I will replace the spring only and see what happens. :) Thanks
There are 2 springs, one is used for extra capacity washers and the smaller for regular washers. You would swap it out for your needs.
👍
Sounds good I do the same thing you do get them from free fix them and sell them
nice ratcheting tool....can u tell me where i can buy it...thanx a lot buddy.
Sears has em
Perfect. Thank you!
how did you know it was not the water pump? great video
Good afternoon, Hank I just finished the clutch replacement and upon reassembly I get this clicking sound, and there's no sniping the water fully out of the cloth. What could I be doing wrong?
There’s no spinning at all? Make sure everything is connected properly
I’ll try to do it 👍🏻
The bolt to my washer agitater is on the side not the top. How do I remove it and what size is it
its turning but this is a neutral drain type. It should not be spinning while empying the water. It spins once the water is gone. The transmission neutral drain parts need to be replaced, about 25 dollars and easy to replace.
Thank for your help I know how to repair it
Repair the the damn hoose omg you just made me laugh jjajjahahahaha funny guy ajjajajahahs keep up these videos please I’m agirl I just learned ethos mis Is so cool
Not sure if my washer has a clutch problem,I can hear the motor working and it does everything else,such as draining water,fill,etc but it wouldn’t agitate or spin, but there’s times that it would spin,so I check the agitator dogs and they were worn out,could the worn out agitator dogs also cause it not to spin?thanks
Happened to me everything worked but agitator wouldn't spin. Come to find out, the nylon agitator dogs were worn and it was $6 to replace them. Works like a charm now.
Super Man well I replace the agit dogs,motor coupling,clutch assembly,& lid switch but it still doesn’t spin
The only way it would spin is when I manually rock the tub back and forth for a while then close lid and it spins.
Thank-you!!! Well done!!!
I'm extremely cheap, I like that, cool video.
Where do you put agitator dogs for this same model
I am trying to get the bolt off so I can pull the transmission out, and cannot find the correct size ratchet for it. You say in the video you believe the bolt is 7/16". I even tried a 1/2 and it appears to be too small. Would you think this is pretty universal for that nut? I am so close!
+Matt Smith you can try a 10-11-12m
7/16" hex head on the bolt, unless you have a different washer. Mine is a Whirlpool, but Whirlpool made that Kenmore, so it should be the same. Lefty-loosey?
why would there be a louding clicking after I replaced the clutch. It is agitating, spinning but with a loud clicking
That's the tub brake setting in
Great video thanks