@ that’s awesome. I know it’s different for every source depending on the input voltage but honestly never seen a dyno vid go over it, this will be great and can’t wait to see it.
When are the new ruthless amp coming out? I heard they have a new line of amp coming out soon. This should be called ruthless 7.5k! The results of the amp was pretty good. Think I’m going to wait on the new ones to come out. I already have the 1500.4.
It's due to the layout of the internal circuit board. If you were to rearrange the terminals you'd have to install large jumper wires to rearrange things internally which adds cost and complexity.
@@JasonWW2000as if it wasnt packed full of very high current carrying traces criss crossing each other all over the place. and you said that like we didnt just pear inside and see it does have what you claimed it would need. i dont give a fuck about the way it looks. im dyslexic and i dont want to fuck up when installing the bass ackwards wire terminals. so maybe somehow youre technically correct. maybe along with all the egghead diff equations the pids and micro processing and the other thousands of the enginerding hours that goes into this shit... then maybe what rickross is asking... maybe you dont think they could just get a child to do that "extra complexity" figuring it out part of crossing out one line on the idk fucken book full of technical data associated with just the passive components in these amps then i mean if they really cant waist the time it takes to do it then i would be willing to offer them the one single minute of my time that it would maybe technically cost them totally free of charge. I mean I could spare more than a minute. hell id bet a lot that every one of these amps they sell would still be sold anyway if the sticker went up by .0001% which should offset all the pain of their extra expenses with enough left over for the pendulum to swing the complete opposite way and not one customer would even notice that price gouge. but id only bet a little bit that a bunch of people would appreciate it if it wasnt all retarded and it landed them a few more customers in the end. i might be a dick with .0001more to spend on an amp but at least im not a pussy boot licker for dumb shit when... theyre shits like one big ass red wire... two big ass black wire... three big ass red wire... four big ass black wire 5 big ass... hey bet ya can guess what color wire is next... HA! NOPE! 😂 gotcha bitch! you fucked it all up and now you fried ya shit and now you have a bad times! duh! 😂 all because you expect all this extra complexity and you want extra extra way way more expensive (but not really) and there shits all like.. 🤗why, because fuck em thats why! duh!
@FaceKicker- I would like to see this amp's power Rated @ 4 ohm's, 2 ohm's, & @ 1 ohm, with the clip button activated. If testing this amp in certified mode, will it still show Less power with the clip button activated? I would think certified is Not clipping, so it shouldn't show less, but for some reason i think i have seen a clip button limit power even on certified test's, with other amp's, so i don't know. Have you tested this, on this specific amplifier?
The certified test on the AD1 is measuring power up to 1% distortion. Clipping is just one of many types of distortion. I'm not sure, but I think the clipping indicator built into the amplifier is basically a voltage comparator circuit. Whenever the voltage going out of the speaker wires gets up to and equal to the internal rail voltage it starts indicating that its clipping. This type of circuit can't differentiate 1% so it will start to show a clipped signal before the AD1 can measure 1% distortion. This is why the power output is a tiny bit less when the clip limiter button is engaged.
@@JasonWW2000 - I would like to see how much difference the power would be, @ each ohm load, with that clip button activated, while ✔️ing the amplifier efficiency. I wonder if the eff. would be higher, or lower?
@@evilinside5984I think the differences in power and efficiency would be so small that it would be considered insignificant. It'd be kinda cool to see, though. Not many amps have a clip limiter. It might be useful for a lot of people.
No, it just means the amplifier is capable of drawing a whole lot of power. If it only had two power and ground cables the resistance might limit the current or cause the voltage to sag quite a bit. By using three cables each it can pull more amperage and have higher voltage levels.
@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 The batteries are a separate situation. You could have any number of AGM or lithium batteries. Whatever you need to support the 800-1,000 amp current draw. Typically a single 1/0 cable can support 300 amps without much voltage loss. Using two of those cables wouldn't be enough. The best way to support 900 amps is to use three cables 1/0 size. Your keeping resistance low which helps keep the voltage high. Using just two 1/0 cables would result in them getting hot, the voltage would be lower and you'd get less power. You'll typically see amps up to 3K use a single 1/0 cable. Amps up to about 6k use two 1/0 cables. Amps up to about 10k use three 1/0 cables. This allows them to perform at their best.
@@JasonWW2000 Thank you for this explanation. So as long as the (3) 1.0 cable runs are directly from the battery.. ... all good ? And (1) 1.0 cable run into a distribution block 1 in 3 out... sounds like a bad idea. People drive around with 600A to 1000A alternators ? I wouldn't know where to begin to look for one.
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7Yes, you want the amp hooked up directly to a battery with three cables. Just because you have a big amp doesn't mean you drive around going full blast. Some people might be wired to 2, 3 or 4 ohm, so they get less power. If you were maxing out this amp you'd probably need two 400A alternators. Most people would not be maxing out this amp, though. People that tend to use big, giant amps tend to also have lots of large subs. So you need a vehicle that can handle it. Tahoes, Yukons and Suburbans are common vehicles and you can easily bolt on 4 alternators. If you want a really big build, you have to plan it out in advance.
Are you retarded? What teampie you know of that will do a .5 certified run. Go find teampie dynos and find one that does. These are also 17v. Ruthless is made at S&I in Korea. Do better
nice amp first ruthless i have seen
It's an 8k all day 🎉 love the .5 ohm abilities
What a tank of an amp!!!
Power wise it reminds me of the Orion HCCA's from a few years ago.
They should rate this at 7000.1
Nice
Good to see ya
@@scottouimet2865 thank you! Got at least the next few weeks ready for regular content
another banger
its a 10k but they dynamic pull was crazy , gonna want some good reserve
What state you in I'm wanting to see what my 10k puts out at half on 16 volts
Rate 8k at 1ohm. Solid performance
Ill take 2 when they drop
Why amp dyno vids never show the gain setup part. I’m just curious of why it’s never shown.
@@Gotyoulooking I'll show it this weekend
@ that’s awesome. I know it’s different for every source depending on the input voltage but honestly never seen a dyno vid go over it, this will be great and can’t wait to see it.
When are the new ruthless amp coming out?
I heard they have a new line of amp coming out soon.
This should be called ruthless 7.5k!
The results of the amp was pretty good.
Think I’m going to wait on the new ones to come out.
I already have the 1500.4.
Thanks for the update and love your channel!❤
Why do amps that have 3 power & ground inputs switch the ground & power position of power wire input? Should be the same for looks - + - + - +
It's due to the layout of the internal circuit board. If you were to rearrange the terminals you'd have to install large jumper wires to rearrange things internally which adds cost and complexity.
@@JasonWW2000as if it wasnt packed full of very high current carrying traces criss crossing each other all over the place.
and you said that like we didnt just pear inside and see it does have what you claimed it would need.
i dont give a fuck about the way it looks. im dyslexic and i dont want to fuck up when installing the bass ackwards wire terminals.
so maybe somehow youre technically correct. maybe along with all the egghead diff equations the pids and micro processing and the other thousands of the enginerding hours that goes into this shit... then maybe what rickross is asking... maybe you dont think they could just get a child to do that "extra complexity" figuring it out part of crossing out one line on the idk fucken book full of technical data associated with just the passive components in these amps then i mean if they really cant waist the time it takes to do it then i would be willing to offer them the one single minute of my time that it would maybe technically cost them totally free of charge. I mean I could spare more than a minute. hell id bet a lot that every one of these amps they sell would still be sold anyway if the sticker went up by .0001% which should offset all the pain of their extra expenses with enough left over for the pendulum to swing the complete opposite way and not one customer would even notice that price gouge. but id only bet a little bit that a bunch of people would appreciate it if it wasnt all retarded and it landed them a few more customers in the end.
i might be a dick with .0001more to spend on an amp but at least im not a pussy boot licker for dumb shit when...
theyre shits like
one big ass red wire...
two big ass black wire...
three big ass red wire...
four big ass black wire
5 big ass...
hey bet ya can guess what color wire is next...
HA! NOPE!
😂 gotcha bitch!
you fucked it all up and now you fried ya shit and now you have a bad times!
duh!
😂 all because you expect all this extra complexity and you want extra extra way way more expensive
(but not really)
and there shits all like..
🤗why, because fuck em thats why!
duh!
@FaceKicker- I would like to see this amp's power Rated @ 4 ohm's, 2 ohm's, & @ 1 ohm, with the clip button activated. If testing this amp in certified mode, will it still show Less power with the clip button activated? I would think certified is Not clipping, so it shouldn't show less, but for some reason i think i have seen a clip button limit power even on certified test's, with other amp's, so i don't know. Have you tested this, on this specific amplifier?
The certified test on the AD1 is measuring power up to 1% distortion. Clipping is just one of many types of distortion.
I'm not sure, but I think the clipping indicator built into the amplifier is basically a voltage comparator circuit. Whenever the voltage going out of the speaker wires gets up to and equal to the internal rail voltage it starts indicating that its clipping. This type of circuit can't differentiate 1% so it will start to show a clipped signal before the AD1 can measure 1% distortion. This is why the power output is a tiny bit less when the clip limiter button is engaged.
@@JasonWW2000 - I would like to see how much difference the power would be, @ each ohm load, with that clip button activated, while ✔️ing the amplifier efficiency. I wonder if the eff. would be higher, or lower?
@@evilinside5984I think the differences in power and efficiency would be so small that it would be considered insignificant.
It'd be kinda cool to see, though. Not many amps have a clip limiter. It might be useful for a lot of people.
Odd Ben wouldn't tell you what it's suppose to be..so it's an 8k..cool..
Only 8 output mosfet transistors for 10k 🤔
Today's modern mosfets can handle 100 amps of current continuous and 400 amps in a burst. So they can be very Stout.
does this mean this amp would like 3 batteries ?
No, it just means the amplifier is capable of drawing a whole lot of power. If it only had two power and ground cables the resistance might limit the current or cause the voltage to sag quite a bit. By using three cables each it can pull more amperage and have higher voltage levels.
@JasonWW2000 So basically the amp just wants more surface area and a distribution block would be fine ? But 3 batteries would be... .... even better ?
@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7 The batteries are a separate situation. You could have any number of AGM or lithium batteries. Whatever you need to support the 800-1,000 amp current draw.
Typically a single 1/0 cable can support 300 amps without much voltage loss. Using two of those cables wouldn't be enough.
The best way to support 900 amps is to use three cables 1/0 size. Your keeping resistance low which helps keep the voltage high.
Using just two 1/0 cables would result in them getting hot, the voltage would be lower and you'd get less power.
You'll typically see amps up to 3K use a single 1/0 cable.
Amps up to about 6k use two 1/0 cables.
Amps up to about 10k use three 1/0 cables.
This allows them to perform at their best.
@@JasonWW2000 Thank you for this explanation. So as long as the (3) 1.0 cable runs are directly from the battery.. ... all good ? And (1) 1.0 cable run into a distribution block 1 in 3 out... sounds like a bad idea. People drive around with 600A to 1000A alternators ? I wouldn't know where to begin to look for one.
@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7Yes, you want the amp hooked up directly to a battery with three cables.
Just because you have a big amp doesn't mean you drive around going full blast. Some people might be wired to 2, 3 or 4 ohm, so they get less power.
If you were maxing out this amp you'd probably need two 400A alternators. Most people would not be maxing out this amp, though.
People that tend to use big, giant amps tend to also have lots of large subs. So you need a vehicle that can handle it. Tahoes, Yukons and Suburbans are common vehicles and you can easily bolt on 4 alternators.
If you want a really big build, you have to plan it out in advance.
Definitely a 7000.1
Call it a 7.5k
I think a 7k or 7.5k. no less than 6.5k
Companies like to overrate.so they gonna call it a 6k ..lol
It’s a 7500 amp
13k
Kinda skimpy on the inside!
What's the model number so I can get one???
Looks like it'll be the 7500 when it's released
12k
5k
Another Teampie amp being called by another name
Are you retarded? What teampie you know of that will do a .5 certified run. Go find teampie dynos and find one that does. These are also 17v. Ruthless is made at S&I in Korea. Do better
@@bartowflorida No
News flash temapie isn’t even the makers of the so called team pie. They are just rebranded another manufacturers product as there own
😂😂😂
That's the 7k .I think....makes no sense to release this one when he pulled the 8 k for the 10 k
Heard this was coming out ,,but with the 4k and the 10k this 7 k would be pointless ,, unless he's dropping the 4 k like he did the 8k
Why would it be pointless? It would fall right between the 4k and the 10k, not everyone wants 10k, this would be perfect for a trunk setup with 2 12's