I wish I would have seen this video earlier. Last weekend I installed new wheel hubs on my car that called for 25ft lbs + 60 degree and I had a tough time using this gadget. I proceeded to strap an electric angle finder to my ratchet and that got me by. I'm sure this would have been more accurate if I used it correctly. Thanks for the demo.
Thanks, you have to use the black bar to move the dial as you turn the wrench. Otherwise the dial will move with the socket and you will not _measure_ anything. ;-)
OK so it's taken me 7 years to figure out.. the gauge is just a lump of metal, and you're already supposed to know the number, for a specific bolt somewhere.. cus god damn, I was expecting a feckin readout based on the torque lol!! Next question I'm sure I'll never get answered.. how the bloody hell do you know WHEN to start counting those numbers then?? The bolt was already in and tightened.. the amount of turns to get it to where you did 60 degrees from is surely in the thousands.. so how did you know where you were in the first place that's the place you add 60 from? 😅
So typically, and my experience is with how GM specifies it, you torque the torque to yield fastener to the specified torque value as you usually would first. Then you use the torque angle gauge to _stretch_ the fastener the additional degrees specified (this is why the fasteners are single use and are supposed to be discarded once removed). You can rotate the dial on the gauge to start at 0° each time. You use the small arm as a stop for the dial.
Actually, I did but I'll elaborate for more clarity. This process is not that precise in terms of where you start _counting_ degrees from, at least as far as GM engineering is concerned. You torque the fastener in the usual way. And then an additional X degrees of over torque as specified in service documentation. The rotational torque starts at zero. Continuous rotational torque as indicated by the dial on the gauge. It doesn't matter if you stop and restart, the clamping force is cumulative. So you start _counting_ degrees from where you left off with the torque wrench.
@@DrShock so you have a sheet/guide or manual to tell you how many more degrees you need to overtorque a bolt or nut? Or you have a general idea how much you need to torque angle some more based on experience and the engine manufacturer?
This is stupid. Why not just torque to a given value? I had to do this recently and i used a phone app to set the angles. I just found the torque value at 30 degrees and torqued them all to that.
It's not _stupid_ it's simply mechanical engineering and materials science in practice. The application of angular force for a fastener, beyond the use of a base torque, is required to account for variations in fastener load distribution. A torque angle gauge reduces the variation in fastener torque and insures the exact clamping force the engineer who designed the component originally intended to be applied. GM engineering is one of several OEMs who require a torque angle specification, and also require the original fastener to be discarded and replaced (torque to yield bolts are one time use only).
I guess I am missing something here , your vid says torque / angle demo , I only saw angle . Do you set the torque first then the angle , ex: 40 lbs then 60 degrees ??
The manufacturer names the tool a _Torque Angle Gauge_ but it's only for applying the angular value specified in a factory service manual. The angular value is secondary to the initial torque value. You would torque the fastener first, in the usual way. So yeah, in your example if the manufacturer specification was 40 foot pounds plus 60 degrees, then you would do the 40 ft lbs in the usual way with a torque wrench. Then affix the torque angle gauge to the torque wrench and do the _additional_ 60 degrees. This results in a _stretch_ of the fastener to achieve the more precise clamping value the engineers required. This stretching action is why _torque to yield_ fasteners are _not_ reusable.
This was short and very helpful. Thank you so much! ❤
Awesome, straight to business just what was needed nothing more nothing less. Now I know how to use the tool. Thank you
I wish I would have seen this video earlier. Last weekend I installed new wheel hubs on my car that called for 25ft lbs + 60 degree and I had a tough time using this gadget. I proceeded to strap an electric angle finder to my ratchet and that got me by. I'm sure this would have been more accurate if I used it correctly. Thanks for the demo.
Excellent video... Straight forward and cler explanation 🔥🔥
Well explained operation and usage. Thank you for best video.
Clear explanation thanks
I have one of those. But it just sits in my drawer ever since I got my angle digital torque wrench.
Excellent explanation, thank you.
Great explanation. Thx
Thanks for good explanation.
Thank You. But I don’t see why the side black piece is there if all you need is the socket and the gauge.
Thanks, you have to use the black bar to move the dial as you turn the wrench. Otherwise the dial will move with the socket and you will not _measure_ anything. ;-)
@ Got it Sir, thanks for clarifying that.
Thanks!
gracias por el aporte saludos desde Argentina
Hell yea
OK so it's taken me 7 years to figure out.. the gauge is just a lump of metal, and you're already supposed to know the number, for a specific bolt somewhere.. cus god damn, I was expecting a feckin readout based on the torque lol!!
Next question I'm sure I'll never get answered.. how the bloody hell do you know WHEN to start counting those numbers then?? The bolt was already in and tightened.. the amount of turns to get it to where you did 60 degrees from is surely in the thousands.. so how did you know where you were in the first place that's the place you add 60 from? 😅
So typically, and my experience is with how GM specifies it, you torque the torque to yield fastener to the specified torque value as you usually would first. Then you use the torque angle gauge to _stretch_ the fastener the additional degrees specified (this is why the fasteners are single use and are supposed to be discarded once removed). You can rotate the dial on the gauge to start at 0° each time. You use the small arm as a stop for the dial.
@@DrShock Lol didnt't think you could answer my question, and there we go, ya didn't! :p
Actually, I did but I'll elaborate for more clarity. This process is not that precise in terms of where you start _counting_ degrees from, at least as far as GM engineering is concerned. You torque the fastener in the usual way. And then an additional X degrees of over torque as specified in service documentation. The rotational torque starts at zero. Continuous rotational torque as indicated by the dial on the gauge. It doesn't matter if you stop and restart, the clamping force is cumulative. So you start _counting_ degrees from where you left off with the torque wrench.
@@ToninFightsEntropy you really shouldn't be doing anything with metal tools if you don't understand. Stick to the plastic Bob the builder ones 😂
@@DrShock so you have a sheet/guide or manual to tell you how many more degrees you need to overtorque a bolt or nut? Or you have a general idea how much you need to torque angle some more based on experience and the engine manufacturer?
This is stupid. Why not just torque to a given value? I had to do this recently and i used a phone app to set the angles. I just found the torque value at 30 degrees and torqued them all to that.
It's not _stupid_ it's simply mechanical engineering and materials science in practice.
The application of angular force for a fastener, beyond the use of a base torque, is required to account for variations in fastener load distribution. A torque angle gauge reduces the variation in fastener torque and insures the exact clamping force the engineer who designed the component originally intended to be applied. GM engineering is one of several OEMs who require a torque angle specification, and also require the original fastener to be discarded and replaced (torque to yield bolts are one time use only).
@@DrShock I guess you are right, but it's difficult if you don't have the special angle gauge.
Darn, I bought one of these thinking it could replace a torque wrench. Probably not useful for me personally
I guess I am missing something here , your vid says torque / angle demo , I only saw angle . Do you set the torque first then the angle , ex: 40 lbs then 60 degrees ??
The manufacturer names the tool a _Torque Angle Gauge_ but it's only for applying the angular value specified in a factory service manual. The angular value is secondary to the initial torque value. You would torque the fastener first, in the usual way. So yeah, in your example if the manufacturer specification was 40 foot pounds plus 60 degrees, then you would do the 40 ft lbs in the usual way with a torque wrench. Then affix the torque angle gauge to the torque wrench and do the _additional_ 60 degrees. This results in a _stretch_ of the fastener to achieve the more precise clamping value the engineers required. This stretching action is why _torque to yield_ fasteners are _not_ reusable.
so i bought the wrong device lmao im a noob i need foot lb guage
It’s ok. I’m also a noob. At least you didn’t torque foot lbs when it called for inch pounds. And snapped a bolt because of it.
Same same