Just a simple dad and amateur homeowner. I'm looking to get the HF click style, all i need it right now is to change oil, spark plugs, rotate tires, teach my kids they're way around some tools. Just need to be more accurate than good-n-tight
I love my HF click style but I also just bought a Hairich 1/2 in off Amazon for lole 2 bucks more than HF and seems to be better made as far as the adjustments
Super interesting! I used to be an industrial salesman for Snap-on, they made the best torque wrenches available at the time, as far as I'm aware. I had one nuclear power plant that I called on that used Snap-on wrenches exclusively. They had hundreds on site, but they also had their own metrology lab and torque measuring standards that were traceable to NIST, and the wrenches were calibrated every 90 days, so it was a tight operation. They used exclusively Snap-on because Snap-on were the best, though they didn't use our most accurate wrenches, which were dial wrenches. Instead they used click wrenches which were generally 4% accurate. The dial wrenches were 2%, though Snap-on had some (very expensive) precision wrenches that were 1%. Actually, they were all expensive, let's face it. But the fact that the MOST expensive wrenches from the best maker out there are now bettered in a lab by these new electronic adapters that sell for tens of dollars rather than hundreds or even thousands really is a testament to the quality of these new tools. Pretty amazing. BTW, users of click wrenches should know that the biggest impediment to accuracy is the user's (often poor) technique. We could illustrate this with a torque tester - hide the display, tell the user to pull the wrench to 100 ft lbs or whatever it was set at, then watch their surprise when the display revealed they'd actually over-torqued by 40% or whatever. People have different ideas: they have to jerk the wrench, or it has to click three times (pop, pop, pop), you name it. I saw all sorts of bad technique. For anyone reading this that has that style of wrench, you pull steadily, and the instant you feel the click you stop. FYI, Snap-on at least advised that on any click wrench that adjusted at the handle micrometer-style, ALWAYS reset to the lowest setting after using the wrench. It would be a definite no-no to have wrenches set for a particular application and then left that way for convenience. It's just a spring in there that's being preloaded, the steel of the spring can take a set over time if it's left under load, destroying the accuracy of the wrench. I'm buying a couple of these new gadgets, glad I saw your video!
Spot on about using the proper technique when using a "clicker" wrrench but I'll argue the store at the lowest setting thing even though I do that with my own. After all it only takes a few seconds so why not just do it? But..... if you forget and put one away with out backing it off don't worry, it will be just fine. I was in charge of gage calibration for a company that built large military, heavy equipment and AG assemblies for several OEM's over a 20 year period and I've been in QA in one form another for 44 years now. We had over 300 TQ wrenches and also had our own torque analyzers, 2 analog and one electronic with the wrenches on a 90 day calibration cycle. We mostly used industrial preset wrenches such as Beloit and Sturtevant-Richmont but for some processes we used commercial micrometer adjustable wrenches locked at the required process settings. Some of those were 15-20 years old and at calibration time we would unlock them and test them at 3 different settings through their range. Unless the wrench had actually been damaged (see last sentence LOL) they never failed calibration. Once the recalibration was complete we returned them to the process settings and locked them again. Over those 20 years I never experienced a single wrench losing it's calibration from being left at a higher setting for years on end. However, using them as breaker bars and pry bars will screw them up in a heartbeat.
@@7thkansascav468 Interesting observation about your process settings not interfering with accuracy. Cannot argue with your substantial breadth of experience, as my understanding of this issue (wrenches taking a set) is theoretical, being based on what I was taught, not on what I observed. I have to think there's a reason Snap-on states this as being important, surely there was some data somewhere that suggested that lowering the setting was a good idea. But it sounds like your firm disproved pretty conclusively that leaving wrenches pre-set is inherently problematic, having repeatedly tested them throughout their range with no adverse effects being noted. Still - as you say - just takes a minute, so I back mine off just in case =]
@@georgeellison926 All manufacturers make the same recommendation as I recall. It may go back to a time when the spring quality wasn't as good in the early days of that style wrench and they did have issues but by at least the 80's I'd say it was no longer an issue. But things like that die hard, especially when engineers and warranties are involved LOL. We did make a concerted effort to make sure any clicker we did this to was in the middle 50% of it's total range however. I personally won't use a wrench outside that middle 50% range.
Snap-on is still the best in durability, failure load, accuracy without recalibration, and more. SK hand tools are not too far behind them, but are much cheaper.
Just to add too this I work as a mechanic in the airforce and we only have snapon tools in my shop. Our torque wrenches come FROM THE TOOL TRUCK off by more than 5% as per our dedicated testing shops. We rarely have a testing tool from the "top brands" pass our testers. Maybe 1 in 12 and that's being generous. I'll have to look into these so thank you bear!
That's because the tool truck wrenches are being fumbled about as the truck moves. Torque wrenches need to be stored in a low traffic area, with minimal movement and vibration. Also a lot of them are usually a year or more so old, as they are the private inventory of the franchisee. Read the instructions on a snappy torque wrench. They call for calibration once year!
It's really easy to test any shop torque wrench for accuracy or calibrate one using a ruler, a string and a known weight. (A digital kitchen scale is often with 1% full range out of the box from China and stays accurate as long as it isn't dropped, or drowned, and is kept clean and free of debris.
Accurate torque depends on three things, an accurate torque wrench, an accurate thread and thread lubrication. Getting all three right is a nightmare for final assembly, on top of that we have galling, so just do your best and use a torque wrench at least you won't strip the threads. . . .
The clickers have advantages. 1. they are like a ratchet and can get into tight places where that huge box can't fit. 2. no batteries for something that I only use maybe once every two months, same with tire pressure gauges. That torque adapter would be GREAT for a transmission rebuild.
@@andrewhkim I do machining. I thought that the best measurement tools were always electronic. Until the battery gives out and you have to change them - always at a bad time. So now I have both, electronic when I really need the accuracy and convenience, and mechanical for much of the rest of the time.
I bought a cheap flex shaft torque wrench from Sears in the early seventies, I took it to work and checked it on our torque wrench calibration station which was certified recently. My cheap torque wrench was within 1 ft/lb across the scale up to 120 ft/lb.
I've used many torque wrenches of different styles over the years. Lately though, I've "fallen in love" with my 3/8" and 1/2" drive digitals. I also have one of the torque adapters and they're very nice as long as there's room to use them. As far as warranty on the Pittsburgh clicker torque wrenches, the way I read it in the user manual, the lifetime warranty only covers breakage. If you link at the manual, it tells you how often and where to send it for recalibration.
I asked the folks at my local HF about calibration and they let me exchange my Pittsburgh Click-type no questions asked. You're mileage may vary, but they told me ALL Pittsburgh *HAND TOOLS* (they were very specific about that) have lifetime warranties.
Back before Harbor Freight had stores everywhere, I mail ordered a bunch of stuff from them, a click-type 1/2 inch torque wrench being one of them. Years later when I was working at CarMax, we had a torque wrench calibration machine, so I tested out my torque wrench and it was within a couple foot pounds (I don't remember exactly anymore, but it was really close!). I ended up giving that one to my dad a few years after that and bought another one from Harbor Freight.
Yes. I've seen new HF torque wrenches tested in a lab and they were quite accurate (within 1%). Only caveat was that before storing, set the torque back to zero to preserve torque accuracy.
@@jeffworst9939 Yeah, with spring tensioned torque wrenches, always release all tension from the spring when storing. Probably not everybody knows that.
I worked at Disney as ride tech and they have torque testers in every corner ,i bring the old version of quin for test at every 50 lbs and blows my mind was better than the snapon clicker we had at shop. Around 1%. That was brand new, have to test now after a couple years of use
For grins, do what I did and check it aganst a brand new, just-calibrated Spap-on. Mine was with 5% over the entire range after being tossed into in a drawer with other tools in an unheated garage between uses for 40 years. Can't imagine the battery in the "digital" versions or the circuit boards inside could do as well.
Yep, I got all 3 of the HF ones back when they were $9.99 each👍 all I do is spark plugs, lug nuts, etc so works great! And all for $30😳 can't beat it🤷♂️
Batteries. For an infrequent use item that does factor into the equation. That said the HF Quinn uses either AA or AAA so most people probably have some in a drawer.
Thank you for this video. Im going to. E doing wheel bearing with 175lb torque and was dreadibg buying a 150 buck torque wrench for something rarely used. This answered it for me
I have one of the old Harbor Freight torque adaptors for precise torque or checking my clicker type CDI torque wrenches. The digital torque adaptors burn through batteries very quickly!!!! I store mine with the battery out.
Love my Quinn digital. Takes no space and quite easy to use. Jeff I also appreciate you comment on working for yourself. When I was starting my first company my dad (a small business owner) told me the bad news news and the good news. The boss is still an idiot but at least you are related to him.
Jeff, your old eyes comment really hit home. I have the HF click wrenches and my biggest gripe with them is how difficult they are to read even with glasses. The numbers and lines look to be stamped and the whole piece is chromed with nothing to highlight the settings. I even tried filling in with a paint pen but the depth is too little and the paint wiped away when I cleaned the paint from the top surface. Those digital adapters are tempting but as other commenters have pointed out they move you away from the work piece which can be an issue in high torque situations. I primarily use my 1/2" wrench for lug nuts so I'd end up with the adapter, a socket and then a spline or lock key on the end putting the head of my wrench way out in space.
I have a Snap On click type torque wrench, use it everyday in the shop. I am the only one that uses a torque wrench regularly. The long time mechanics only use theirs on engine components. They are uncannily accurate in a “feel” of how much torque to apply. I have personally seen mechanics get exactly on or within a few ft-lbs.
What scares me is mechanics that when they put on wheels use an air driven impact wrench for their torque wrench. It is fast but it makes it real tough to change a flat.
@@drwisdom1 They should use torque rods and set the impact's torque low so it don't do that. I've seen them actually warp rotors, bend drums, and stretch / break off studs.
I have seen too many deviancies do to using a torque stick. It comes off as a lazy and want to crack work out faster method. It has even been proved that their "rated torque spec" is not accurate due to mechanics using overpowering impacts.
Thanks for the advice, I have a very old, never been calibrated craftsman inchpound wrench I bought a very long time ago because my old buick just wasn't worth being all that accurate, now I got a newer car and would rather not risk destroying aluminum parts by over tightening like I would do when everything was made of either iron, steel or rust, just tighten till it started to squeak and you're golden. I never knew there was the digital option, while it might not fit in all spaces it would be a nice general option for me as a casual diy'er. I am certainly not about to throw $600 at something I will use once every couple years.
Doesn't anyone use a beam style torque wrench anymore? They are dead accurate, and give you a great feel of what the fastener is doing as you tighten, perfect when assembling engines. I use them constantly, professionally. The electronic adapters and torque wrenches are nice, but take some getting used to in my experience.
My son is a bike mechanic. He has my old SnapOn beam wrench. He likes it because it's fast. Nothing to set, just tighten 'till the pointer hits the right number. I've "upgraded" to clickers. The disadvantage of the beam types is that you have to contort yourself to be able to read the scale correctly. Lug nuts are an example.
Im gonna get me a digital torque adapter,but I dont need it beyond head bolts,rod and main bolts. You can recalibrate your click style torque wrench with it too.
I love harbor, freight, and let me tell you something. Not all of us grew up with fathers, or men who could help us work on the cars, house, and so on. The men that work at most harbor freight‘s are the reason why I go there. Because a lot of these guys have got 30 to 40 years in the industry and just will flat out tell you that with what you’re doing this tool will be able to do it for you Without breaking the bank. Not to mention, the lifetime warranty, where you just walk in hand, your tool to them they give you a high five and you walk out it’s pretty nice. I have a big boy money now and I still shop at Harbor freight because they burned it. I’ve been going to Harbor freight for 20 years and I’m 35 now. I still have tools that I first got from them it worked just fine and I’ve gotten tools that I’ve had to take back a few times but the thing I like about harbor freight is that they cycle through their stuff and the stuff that’s good stays in the stuff it’s not so good they have quality control that moves it out of there store.
I have three click style wrenches and I never trusted any one of them since the time I broke off a manifold bolt waiting for the click. I bought the HF digital adapter and with a couple of bolts and a little welding I can calibrate my click wrenches to where I can trust them. And of course use the digital adapter when I can. However the battery kept dieing since I use it so seldom and I was afraid of corrosion so I pull the battery out after I use it.
I use my Quinn torque adapters (new style ones) to calibrate my click wrench... the Quinn adapters are CONSISTENT and very accurate. Yours is the old one 3 in 1.. the new ones are broken down into 3 sizes the gen 2 is even better! lights just like a snap on digital torque wrench
@@LLF1234 they calibrate right when you turn them in automatically. So as long as you don’t overload them they will last a very long time. Like if it says “25-250ft lbs” I would not go any over 150ft lbs - if you need to go higher then buy the next size up… They make a 3/4” version that goes over 500 foot pounds.
@@CL-yp1bs Thanks for the reply! I'll be using them mostly for torquing engine and transmission drain plugs, lugnuts, and maybe sparkplugs on an old honda CRV. The range would be 13 - 80ft lbs, so I'll probably get the 3/8". And maybe torque the sparkplugs (13ft lbs) by hand.
@@LLF1234 I have an aluminum block, so I actually specifically bought mine to make sure my spark plugs are torqued correctly but not I use it on all sorts of stuff including drain plugs transmission pan bolts, lug nuts, and more. I own the 3/8” and The 1/2” version. I use the 3/8” more often especially for smaller items that I really don’t want to over torque. There is a lot of crossover on the ratings so unless you’re doing heavy duty stuff the 3/8 should work for the majority of tasks you need it for
I think there are two specific demographics here. One is the person that needs to start using a torque wrench because they are occasionally talking their wheels off for rotations or other basic service. They should likely just get a clicker and make sure they use it. The other is the person that does some or all of their own work, and needs a way to properly tighten the critical stuff. They likely will own both, but could start with either. For me, I already own clickers and a few beam style. A bunch of them. I've resisted the electronic gadgets because I already have a way to properly tighten things. If I had to start over, I'd probably get both. I'd still want my everyday lug nut tool to be a clicker. I'd drop and break those plastic things, or I'd go to use it and the battery would die. Owning both gives another advantage, you can check one against another and if they don't match you know you have a problem.
Appreciate the introduction to these torque meters which I was not aware of. Due to the fact that I always seem to struggle with space under the hood of modern vehicles, I don't think they would be ideal for me in regular use. One application they might work for however is checking the accuracy of my torque wrenches. Finally, I started my career in test equipment calibration including torque wrenches and the most accurate ones that held their calibration the best were made by Sturtevant Richmont, one of the pioneering torque wrench companies. I still insist on that brand to this day.
During my time in gage calibration we had an old Sturtevant Richmont that came with a job a customer outsourced to us and they supplied all the tooling. The handle was all beat to hell and literally bowed 2 inches. We checked it just to see how far out of calibration it was but it was still in calibration! We retired it anyway but that impressed the hell out of me. I actually have an old Sturtevant Richmont analog torque analyzer I picked up off Ebay to check my own wrenches at home.
@@7thkansascav468 I still have 2 old Sturtevants both of which are beam type torque wrenches. I've used them until recent years because the the 24 inch click type torque wrenches are often too long when used in close quarters.To change the subject, you know i miss the bear
Super cool, u did it again... Just purchased the harbor freight Quinn 1/4", $40 torque tool, and it's really good to know the skinny on it so I can trust the product. Plus, it was 20% off, plus I had $20 harbor freight bucks, paying only $12 total for the tool, how cool is that. Great info again Definitely appreciate it. A valuable thumbs up.
I have read several of the comments, but have yet to see anyone use the electronic torque sensor as a calibration verifier. I think most mechanical flex-shaft or clicker torque wrenches are very close for the job at hand, but nice to be able to test the accuracy. I have yet to own an electronic torquer, but is certainly next on my tool list after viewing this video. Now I can test & calibrate the two dial-torque Starrett 1/4" torque wrenches that have been sitting in a drawer for years. Will also verify my Fat Wrench for my main hobby, too.
Yup, that's the first thing I did when I bought my digital torque adaptor (just a few hours ago!). Took the old wrench I inherited from my grandfather, set it to 30 Nm, digital read out said 29.9 Nm. Set wrench to 20 Nm, read out 19.8 Nm. Set to 30 Nm again, read out 29.6 Nm. I am impressed! Okay yea, that's not really calibration without a trusted calibration reference, but I have some faith in these tools now and it should be simple enough to build a calibrator for the digital one should I want to.
I have had my AC Delco ARM602-3 torque adapter for about 10 years, also a Tacklife 1/2" and a Husky 3/8 digital torque wrench. All work great working on my car.
I have the three HF clickers (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") and the two digital adapters. I pretty much use the two adapters to calibrate the two larger HF clickers.
As a retired professional calibrator, each type has its own purpose. Do you use a scalpel when you need a hammer? HF is about 4% in CW direction when properly Calibrated. The problem comes with the user. Never leave a TW at any value above the lowest indicated setting. Have it Calibrated once a year or if dropped. Again, how critical is the Torque you're doing. Doing heads, use the good stuff. Gerneral stuff ,heck an old beam style is good enough.
I have the digital torque adapter but I also have the 3 HF click wrenches which I bought on sale for $9.99 each. I used the digital to check my click wrenches and adjust the settings on my clicks. They work fine for oil drain plugs, filter housings, brake parts, etc. I never had a problem.
For my lug nuts, I have a cheapo Autozone sourced 1/2” drive click type wrench but it has a lifetime warranty. It really doesn’t like my backhoe lugs which are torqued to 140 ft lbs; the head blows up every 4-6 years and sends the internal parts flying. I’ve replaced it 4 times to date. I’d say I’ve gotten my $12 worth out of them (but I’m going to keep going).
Several people have said it and my biggest issue with digital was batteries. Seems like they always go out at a very inconvenient time. Also, I hate keeping up with batteries, they seem to disappear a lot (wife and kids need em). Also, there could be clearance issues sometimes. Still, I’m tempted to get one since they’re relatively inexpensive. Not sure yet, just have to see.
Batteries definitely an issue. If you get one, make sure to get one that uses AAAs. Some of them are funky cells that you will never have on hand, and won't find at the local big box or friendly neighborhood store.
As an aircraft mechanic I couldn’t agree more on the range thing. I was so surprised when I got a chance to work at a auto shop that their manuals didn’t list a torque range . 85-95 in lb is common, 170-185 in is common . It depends on conditions and all sorts of stuff. Good and tight is fine in a lot of cases even aircraft. Not everything but a lot
I must say the Tekton torque wrenches are very accurate as "click" style go. I have the 1/4in (inch pounds) and the 1/2in. I also have the Quinn torque adapter and really like it too. As you said it just wont fit every situation.
The load I didn't see as often in these style torque boxes are 'inch' pounds, as opposed to ft pounds. This is more common in 1/4" torque wrenches for light applications. They probably exist too, I may have missed it.
Jeff mentioned these digital ones can be cycled through several measurements, including inch-lbs. I will be confirming that when I search for one myself.
@@markkempton4579 yes but they only are rated to a certain lowest limit, which you need to be aware of during use or you'll be breaking something for sure.
Have a Tekton 1/2 torque wrench and love it. Use the Quinn to check my clicker to make sure it's calibrated still. But some areas it's easier to use the torque wrench by itself do to space to fit into areas.
Click type torque wrenches are just fine. I worked in a calibration laboratory testing and repairing all sorts of torque wrenches. Most of them passed the plus or minus 3 percent tolerance year after year after being used to assemble aircraft parts, assembling jet engines, and various other applications. There are videos out there testing the Pittsburg click style torque wrenches against name brand click style torque wrenches. There was very little performance difference.
I use my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2 click style wrench for my Jeep lug nuts. Works fine for what I need it for, got it for 9.99 with a coupon at some point. Well worth it. Next one will be one of the digital adapter types.
I have tested my 3 in one quin torque adapter against my HF clicker and the clicker agreed with the clicker to 2 tenths of a FP. That is good enough for me, or any pro. It is cool but sometimes you can't get the adapter in places.
Great info, as usual. Please keep up the great content. Your info saves me tons of money, I am just a backyard warrior and don't need the best stuff, just stuff that works without all the bells and whistles.
Thanks for the suggestion on the torque adapters! I had been looking for a digital as an upgrade to my very old Craftsman digi-torque clicker (which I had also left torqued in storage). I just made my first trip today to a harbor freight and got the 3/8 Quinn (they were out of the 1/2). Wow what store!
I have a Princess auto torque wrench set (Princess auto is Canada's Harbor Freight ) and had them checked for accuracy on the snap on truck and they were bang on.
Thanks for the review. I've been thinking about getting one of these for torquing wheel lug nuts. Easier than digging out my click-style torque wrench and cranking it up a bunch of turns to the correct torque setting. Plus, my torque wrench is kind of a nice one so I'd prefer to save it for the more precise work instead of using it on wheels.
Perfect timing for your question. I have the Pittsburg 3/4 inch click style for wheel lugs. I ended up changing a head gasket on a B&S lawn riding mower recently. Everyone cringe, I used the 3/4 inch it goes down to 10 foot pounds. I set the first round at ten then checked with a ratchet and it seemed about right. Went a second round at 18 foot pounds, rechecked at 18 foot pounds and good to go. Did I feel good about it? Not really, but its a lawn mower engine. Next time I go to HF I'm going to pick up the 3/8" Pittsburgh, click it. Good enough for the rare items. I love the digital but with the price difference I can enjoy more beer after each job with essentially the same result.
I have used Tekton click style torque wrenches for the past 8 years with no issues at all. I have been interested in the smaller digital types like you're showing but have been weary of them due to their warranties. I may still get one, one of these days but still in no rush due to my clickers still being efficient enough. I really like the fact they're all long enough and ratchet to do any job that I've ever done and wanted to be precise enough without over torquing. If I have to transport them they ride front seat in my truck buckled in :).
I apologize ahead of time for my ignorance. But isn't one of the advantages of click-style torque wrenches that it has that slight pause to stop you from going over the set torque spec? I completely agree with your premise and in fact do have a digital since I'm a diy'er, but I usually find myself going over. My assumption has been that for a professional needing to be more precise, used the "click" as a physical stopping point from going over.
Maybe it's just me but I have trouble not going over the set torque with digital. Bending down or trying to look at the display in awkward positions is also difficult. The vibration is confusing and the beeping interferes with my music (Motivation gone) . I have that gearwrench 1/2" and the 3/8" neiko adapter but I have trust issues with these. I find myself going back to my click style 1/2" and 3/8" craftsman professional USA made torque wrenches (I had trust issues with the click style also coming from a Greatneck needle scale version which I still have)... If it doesn't need to be accurate then it defeats the purpose of torquing anything then. I saw these in harbor and they went quick on clearance and now the peg is full of the new ones. It seems they're not selling. Amazon has many versions of them too now. It's just going to take time for me to get used to them. I'm shopping around for the torque screw driver ones for lower applications... Prices are high right now just waiting. Capri is nice looking. Gearwrench is pricey.
I have the click type cheaper type wrench. The last time I used it was to replace the heads on the truck. I would buy the adapter type if I need to replace my old one. I may have more uses when I start rebuilding my Citicar. I like getting the torque correct on the lithium batteries and electric motor terminals.
The teeth in my ½-inch Craftsman that I bought in the late '60s clicks when I reach the set torque … except some of the teeth broke and I had to replace it. I rebuilt the old one anyway, although the ball bearing doesn't fit exactly right. Then I needed another torque wrench for 140 lb-ft lug nuts and bought an EPAUTO wrench. I also have digital ¼-inch, 3/8-inch and ½-inch torque wrenches (setting is visible in a window; no matching a mark to printed numbers in the shaft). That click is what really makes the wrenches useful. Tprques wrenches are needed on more than just lug nuts. Replacing suspension and brake parts also require torque wrenches.
Man, I have always been a little averse to torque wrenches and I've avoided several of the jobs that require one. I'll hit up the HF Torque Adapter first. It sounds super intuitive. Thanks!
It’s great to see your face in this video as opposed to staring at a cartoon bear. We pay more attention when looking at your face and your expressions then to the bear because we tend to look away on and off. You give us great information; thanks.
I have recently moved from click-style torque wrench to buying both the 3/8" and the 1/2" Quinn digital torque adapters. I got both because they have different ranges of measurable torque.
I had an HF click style, and I broke a bolt because I wasn't sure how to properly torque it and it was my first time using a torque wrench. Glad I found this video as I am going to try this digital adapter instead!
i have the teckton 1/2" and its been great but i have been sysballing the adapters just to keep in the tool box in my truck. like you say it just makes life simpler and thats always a good thing.
makes total sense to measure tork rotationally rather than linear, just had a nightmare with a failed click torque wrench. Already have one of these for larger settings but it was only 10nm so had to rely on a click 1/4 inch just bought the smaller adapter, wish i had done that last week
At harbor freight yesterday I just bought the 1/4 inch 3/8 and 1/2 Pittsburgh torque wrenches for 11.99 a piece for their spring Black Friday sale, honestly I don’t think there will be a better deal around for torque wrenches then that in 2023
I bought all three sizes from harbor freight. I'm just a backyard home type mechanic, but wanted to do things right. By the time I decided to use them, they seemed like I was cranking way too hard and sometimes still not clicking. I even put it in the vise on a fairly low setting and they wouldn't click. All three did this. Out of warranty, I just bought all three Lexicon from Amazon and except for maybe the 1/4" wrench, they also failed and then failed the vice test. Now with a shop full of ones that don't work or I can trust, I'm stuck. And my tool budget for these is depleted. 😡
Mr. den of tools I bought a click style Icon torque wrench outside box said lifetime warranty. The fine print in the manual said 90 days on the calibration. So essentially it is a 90 day warranty on calibration which is why you buy the wrench. When I am torqueing my plastic head it needs to be accurate to inch pounds.
Bought a 3/8 snap on torque wrench for my work in aviation maybe 25 years ago. I test it against a calibrated acratork unit every time I set it (so I don't have to get it recalibrated annually myself) - in 25 years it hasn't missed a beat. These days I could probably spend half what I spent on the snap on and have something as good, but hell.... this thing has lasted like snap on should. Okay, so where do we go from now? FIt a digital torque adaptor to my click wrench and set to the maximum permitted value less 2%, then work to the digital scale to get to the median torque, leaving the click wrench to give a top end torque in case the adapter has failed. Mechanical engineering generally fails progressively compared to digital engineering - rather than have a single failure (potentially resulting in 195 deaths) using a digital device which could fail between the acratork and the point of use, my conclusion is.... nah! I am sticking with what I know to be reliable.
If you don't need the clearance that traditional style torque wrenches offer, then these adapters are great. Personally I would own both styles, and use the traditional ones when needed. Edit: typo
Lots of reasons to stick with click style. No batteries required - what happens if you are on the side of the road repairing and batteries go. Then there is issue with water proof - I know I have worked in rain on my car. The housing on the electrics look flimsy on cheaper ones - would it handle being dropped or having bigger tools dropped on it. Those electric ones look bulky too - would it fit in tight spaces? With all these points in mind, would I trust it or go with the more sturdy backup?
I’ll stick to a click type torque wrench. I don’t want to deal with batteries in the electronic ones. I’ve heard the icon is almost as accurate as the snap on torque wrench and it’s over $300 less.
The real question is which one doesn't kill batteries when not in use. I bought a digital torque adapter a couple years ago and stopped using it because every time I pulled it out the batteries would be dead. I started taking the batteries out in between uses and they would be fine. But who wants to have to take batteries in and out to use a tool? The problem is they don't have a real power switch. The power button they implement has to have a microcontroller looking for the button press to wake it up. Its not off, its just in a low power state which still draws enough current to drain the batteries in 6 months. I wish more tests people do on these would measure this lower power ("off" state) current draw.
Bear,again, idk how you know. But I just went and purchased the Quinn. I was like,does bear have video on these? And then you post this! Thanks bear!!! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and thoughts!!!
I bought an adapter long ago, the idea was to calibrate my click wrenches for critical applications, like aircraft. But lately, a lot of specs I noticed use angles , not torque. Example , turn till just tight then add 90 degree to it. Maybe I should add an angle card indicator.
Been eying these for a while. Hoping to see a few more ruggedized versions come to market. I do a lot of cold work (down to -50) and also occasional humid or just straight up wet. So something a bit more insulated for the battery and definitively weather-proof. I have used those smart sockets though before at a site and I wish I could afford one.
I still have my Husky 1/2". It's fine for DIY jobs. But I also have the Quinn digital adapter, and honestly there isn't much else I'll need after that. Are they pro? Not at all. But they get "my" jobs done at sufficient accuracy.
When I was a tech I never ever needed a 1/4" torque wrench. All the suspension stuff was 3/8 and big stuff was 1/2" IMO just buy a 1/2" and use your adapters when needed and if you are doing the odd big stuff or trucks get the 3/4. The only oddity is going to be TTA (torque to angle) which the electronic wrenches can handle that without a separate gauge. I have one of the old craftsman electronic torque adapters. It was the first of the affordable ones but it had a separate sensor and readout box.
I loved your take on this. I am a DYI guy and use the HF click style 99% of the time for the simple reason of space. I have the digital block and was really excited to use it but found it bulky getting into tight spots which for some reason seems to be most of my work. I will not fight or down anyone for what they use simply because that means they are using something other than ugga duggas or bob pounds. I have followed too many of those guys in doing repairs. Keep up the great job. I always look forward to watching your videos. I do miss the bear animation. 🤣🤣🤣
This was really helpful info for me, I don't claim to be a professional I love my cars but like most of us I work 50+ hours a week and I cant trust garages near me as they have made so many mistakes with my cars so I'm currently building up my garage with new tools so I can do the work needed myself but finding a good torque wrench is like going down the rabbit hole.
I just bought an ICON 1/2" torque wrench last year, along with the Pittsburg Pro 3/8" torque wrench. I'll either get one of these adapters a year or two from now so I don't need to recalibrate the 3 total torque wrenches I own for a few more years. My old Craftsman 1/2" needs to be calibrated, and the main reason why I bought the ICON, calibration shops I called wanted to charge me at least $100, from what I remember. I'm a DIY mechanic, but I did just do a clutch job on my Jetta, and it needs a camshaft which both jobs require specific torque specs.
I have the quinn and Its a couple years old....works perfect.I love the accuracy and think its a much wiser choice for the occasional user perfect for the occasional tire changer.Very easy to use....and makes more sense to me over any common click style torque wrench.I like that if necessary,I can use it on important stuff and trust the accuracy.I questioned its longevity...but not no more,they are solid and reliable.
I don’t have a need for torque wrenches yet. I have a 24” Pittsburgh half inch breaker bar when needed. I have three 4- way lug wrenches for our three vehicles. I haven’t had a lug nut to come loose since I’ve been changing tires possibly as long as you. Been thinking about the half inch drive Pittsburgh torque wrench the clicker to see how close I am. Keep’m coming
I just recently purchased the 1/2 and 3/8" Lexivon click torque wrenches and plan on buying the 1/4" also and love them. I will definitely be checking into these adapters as well.
Meanwhile in the snapon boardroom..."inexpensive, accurate, and widely available??!! Gentlemen, we must put a stop to this immediately!!...hey, I didn't get a harumph outa that guy."
"We're not building space shuttles here." 💯 Well said!
proceeds to recommend an adaptor accurate within 1%
Just a simple dad and amateur homeowner. I'm looking to get the HF click style, all i need it right now is to change oil, spark plugs, rotate tires, teach my kids they're way around some tools. Just need to be more accurate than good-n-tight
I love my HF click style but I also just bought a Hairich 1/2 in off Amazon for lole 2 bucks more than HF and seems to be better made as far as the adjustments
Super interesting! I used to be an industrial salesman for Snap-on, they made the best torque wrenches available at the time, as far as I'm aware. I had one nuclear power plant that I called on that used Snap-on wrenches exclusively. They had hundreds on site, but they also had their own metrology lab and torque measuring standards that were traceable to NIST, and the wrenches were calibrated every 90 days, so it was a tight operation. They used exclusively Snap-on because Snap-on were the best, though they didn't use our most accurate wrenches, which were dial wrenches. Instead they used click wrenches which were generally 4% accurate. The dial wrenches were 2%, though Snap-on had some (very expensive) precision wrenches that were 1%. Actually, they were all expensive, let's face it. But the fact that the MOST expensive wrenches from the best maker out there are now bettered in a lab by these new electronic adapters that sell for tens of dollars rather than hundreds or even thousands really is a testament to the quality of these new tools. Pretty amazing.
BTW, users of click wrenches should know that the biggest impediment to accuracy is the user's (often poor) technique. We could illustrate this with a torque tester - hide the display, tell the user to pull the wrench to 100 ft lbs or whatever it was set at, then watch their surprise when the display revealed they'd actually over-torqued by 40% or whatever. People have different ideas: they have to jerk the wrench, or it has to click three times (pop, pop, pop), you name it. I saw all sorts of bad technique. For anyone reading this that has that style of wrench, you pull steadily, and the instant you feel the click you stop.
FYI, Snap-on at least advised that on any click wrench that adjusted at the handle micrometer-style, ALWAYS reset to the lowest setting after using the wrench. It would be a definite no-no to have wrenches set for a particular application and then left that way for convenience. It's just a spring in there that's being preloaded, the steel of the spring can take a set over time if it's left under load, destroying the accuracy of the wrench.
I'm buying a couple of these new gadgets, glad I saw your video!
Spot on about using the proper technique when using a "clicker" wrrench but I'll argue the store at the lowest setting thing even though I do that with my own. After all it only takes a few seconds so why not just do it? But..... if you forget and put one away with out backing it off don't worry, it will be just fine. I was in charge of gage calibration for a company that built large military, heavy equipment and AG assemblies for several OEM's over a 20 year period and I've been in QA in one form another for 44 years now. We had over 300 TQ wrenches and also had our own torque analyzers, 2 analog and one electronic with the wrenches on a 90 day calibration cycle. We mostly used industrial preset wrenches such as Beloit and Sturtevant-Richmont but for some processes we used commercial micrometer adjustable wrenches locked at the required process settings. Some of those were 15-20 years old and at calibration time we would unlock them and test them at 3 different settings through their range. Unless the wrench had actually been damaged (see last sentence LOL) they never failed calibration. Once the recalibration was complete we returned them to the process settings and locked them again. Over those 20 years I never experienced a single wrench losing it's calibration from being left at a higher setting for years on end. However, using them as breaker bars and pry bars will screw them up in a heartbeat.
@@7thkansascav468 Interesting observation about your process settings not interfering with accuracy. Cannot argue with your substantial breadth of experience, as my understanding of this issue (wrenches taking a set) is theoretical, being based on what I was taught, not on what I observed. I have to think there's a reason Snap-on states this as being important, surely there was some data somewhere that suggested that lowering the setting was a good idea. But it sounds like your firm disproved pretty conclusively that leaving wrenches pre-set is inherently problematic, having repeatedly tested them throughout their range with no adverse effects being noted. Still - as you say - just takes a minute, so I back mine off just in case =]
@@georgeellison926 All manufacturers make the same recommendation as I recall. It may go back to a time when the spring quality wasn't as good in the early days of that style wrench and they did have issues but by at least the 80's I'd say it was no longer an issue. But things like that die hard, especially when engineers and warranties are involved LOL. We did make a concerted effort to make sure any clicker we did this to was in the middle 50% of it's total range however. I personally won't use a wrench outside that middle 50% range.
Snap-on is still the best in durability, failure load, accuracy without recalibration, and more. SK hand tools are not too far behind them, but are much cheaper.
Didn’t Precision instruments make Snap On torque wrenches?
Just to add too this I work as a mechanic in the airforce and we only have snapon tools in my shop. Our torque wrenches come FROM THE TOOL TRUCK off by more than 5% as per our dedicated testing shops. We rarely have a testing tool from the "top brands" pass our testers. Maybe 1 in 12 and that's being generous. I'll have to look into these so thank you bear!
That's because the tool truck wrenches are being fumbled about as the truck moves. Torque wrenches need to be stored in a low traffic area, with minimal movement and vibration. Also a lot of them are usually a year or more so old, as they are the private inventory of the franchisee.
Read the instructions on a snappy torque wrench. They call for calibration once year!
It's really easy to test any shop torque wrench for accuracy or calibrate one using a ruler, a string and a known weight. (A digital kitchen scale is often with 1% full range out of the box from China and stays accurate as long as it isn't dropped, or drowned, and is kept clean and free of debris.
Accurate torque depends on three things, an accurate torque wrench, an accurate thread and thread lubrication. Getting all three right is a nightmare for final assembly, on top of that we have galling, so just do your best and use a torque wrench at least you won't strip the threads. . . .
My dad's torque wrench has an extra rod coming back to a dial on the handle. Old school.
The clickers have advantages. 1. they are like a ratchet and can get into tight places where that huge box can't fit. 2. no batteries for something that I only use maybe once every two months, same with tire pressure gauges. That torque adapter would be GREAT for a transmission rebuild.
It's AAA batteries. Get rechargeables and use them elsewhere.
I agree. Many places a box that size would not fit
@@andrewhkim I do machining. I thought that the best measurement tools were always electronic. Until the battery gives out and you have to change them - always at a bad time. So now I have both, electronic when I really need the accuracy and convenience, and mechanical for much of the rest of the time.
All true. Just another tool in the arsenal.
Why Can't You Use An Extension To Get Into Tight Places?
Have used my beam type torque wrench since the early eighties. Haven’t had to change the batteries yet.
I bought a cheap flex shaft torque wrench from Sears in the early seventies, I took it to work and checked it on our torque wrench calibration station which was certified recently. My cheap torque wrench was within 1 ft/lb across the scale up to 120 ft/lb.
The Sears clicker ones were ALWAYS the best. Every Black Friday like $40!
Mine too! Big and awkward but always accurate
i have one too. bought it in the late 70's
I've used many torque wrenches of different styles over the years. Lately though, I've "fallen in love" with my 3/8" and 1/2" drive digitals. I also have one of the torque adapters and they're very nice as long as there's room to use them. As far as warranty on the Pittsburgh clicker torque wrenches, the way I read it in the user manual, the lifetime warranty only covers breakage. If you link at the manual, it tells you how often and where to send it for recalibration.
I asked the folks at my local HF about calibration and they let me exchange my Pittsburgh Click-type no questions asked. You're mileage may vary, but they told me ALL Pittsburgh *HAND TOOLS* (they were very specific about that) have lifetime warranties.
Back before Harbor Freight had stores everywhere, I mail ordered a bunch of stuff from them, a click-type 1/2 inch torque wrench being one of them. Years later when I was working at CarMax, we had a torque wrench calibration machine, so I tested out my torque wrench and it was within a couple foot pounds (I don't remember exactly anymore, but it was really close!). I ended up giving that one to my dad a few years after that and bought another one from Harbor Freight.
Yes. I've seen new HF torque wrenches tested in a lab and they were quite accurate (within 1%). Only caveat was that before storing, set the torque back to zero to preserve torque accuracy.
@@jeffworst9939 Yeah, with spring tensioned torque wrenches, always release all tension from the spring when storing. Probably not everybody knows that.
I worked at Disney as ride tech and they have torque testers in every corner ,i bring the old version of quin for test at every 50 lbs and blows my mind was better than the snapon clicker we had at shop. Around 1%. That was brand new, have to test now after a couple years of use
I've been using my granddads Montgomery ward beam style torque wrench for years and never ever had any problems
For grins, do what I did and check it aganst a brand new, just-calibrated Spap-on. Mine was with 5% over the entire range after being tossed into in a drawer with other tools in an unheated garage between uses for 40 years. Can't imagine the battery in the "digital" versions or the circuit boards inside could do as well.
Beam style torque wrenches is what I grew up using!
Yep, I got all 3 of the HF ones back when they were $9.99 each👍 all I do is spark plugs, lug nuts, etc so works great! And all for $30😳 can't beat it🤷♂️
Agreed. Only reason I have the quin 3/4 inch is axil nuts everything else is done with the pittsburgh ones
Yup. I have double of all three. I keep a spare 1/2 in my trackday bucket I use at the race track.
Agreed
Link of what you got? Please
@@rhoodj I got em couple years ago. Just gotta keep an eye out for when they're $9.99.
Batteries. For an infrequent use item that does factor into the equation. That said the HF Quinn uses either AA or AAA so most people probably have some in a drawer.
TV controller, cable TV controller, satellite TV controller, fire alarm, various size flashlights, etc. Who doesn't have various sizes batteries.
Thank you for this video. Im going to. E doing wheel bearing with 175lb torque and was dreadibg buying a 150 buck torque wrench for something rarely used. This answered it for me
I have one of the old Harbor Freight torque adaptors for precise torque or checking my clicker type CDI torque wrenches. The digital torque adaptors burn through batteries very quickly!!!! I store mine with the battery out.
Love my Quinn digital. Takes no space and quite easy to use. Jeff I also appreciate you comment on working for yourself. When I was starting my first company my dad (a small business owner) told me the bad news news and the good news. The boss is still an idiot but at least you are related to him.
It does take space when you have to torque down an alternator pulley
Jeff, your old eyes comment really hit home. I have the HF click wrenches and my biggest gripe with them is how difficult they are to read even with glasses. The numbers and lines look to be stamped and the whole piece is chromed with nothing to highlight the settings. I even tried filling in with a paint pen but the depth is too little and the paint wiped away when I cleaned the paint from the top surface.
Those digital adapters are tempting but as other commenters have pointed out they move you away from the work piece which can be an issue in high torque situations. I primarily use my 1/2" wrench for lug nuts so I'd end up with the adapter, a socket and then a spline or lock key on the end putting the head of my wrench way out in space.
I have a Snap On click type torque wrench, use it everyday in the shop. I am the only one that uses a torque wrench regularly. The long time mechanics only use theirs on engine components. They are uncannily accurate in a “feel” of how much torque to apply. I have personally seen mechanics get exactly on or within a few ft-lbs.
What scares me is mechanics that when they put on wheels use an air driven impact wrench for their torque wrench. It is fast but it makes it real tough to change a flat.
@@drwisdom1 They should use torque rods and set the impact's torque low so it don't do that. I've seen them actually warp rotors, bend drums, and stretch / break off studs.
I have seen too many deviancies do to using a torque stick. It comes off as a lazy and want to crack work out faster method. It has even been proved that their "rated torque spec" is not accurate due to mechanics using overpowering impacts.
I bought thr Tekton set and checked their accuracy. They were right on. Very happy with the quality
Thanks for the advice, I have a very old, never been calibrated craftsman inchpound wrench I bought a very long time ago because my old buick just wasn't worth being all that accurate, now I got a newer car and would rather not risk destroying aluminum parts by over tightening like I would do when everything was made of either iron, steel or rust, just tighten till it started to squeak and you're golden. I never knew there was the digital option, while it might not fit in all spaces it would be a nice general option for me as a casual diy'er. I am certainly not about to throw $600 at something I will use once every couple years.
Thanks! Went out and bought a HF 1/2" and am quite happy with it!
I'm looking at the Quinn... so far am pleased with the whole Quinn line. Plan on using the digital to keep clickers in calibration. Thanks Bear!
Doesn't anyone use a beam style torque wrench anymore? They are dead accurate, and give you a great feel of what the fastener is doing as you tighten, perfect when assembling engines. I use them constantly, professionally.
The electronic adapters and torque wrenches are nice, but take some getting used to in my experience.
My son is a bike mechanic. He has my old SnapOn beam wrench. He likes it because it's fast. Nothing to set, just tighten 'till the pointer hits the right number. I've "upgraded" to clickers. The disadvantage of the beam types is that you have to contort yourself to be able to read the scale correctly. Lug nuts are an example.
oh they're still popular but they tend to have narrower troque ranges so like 10 to 80 lbs or 80 to 170 and they're hard to read (imo)
the most accurate are dial I believe, but god they're a pain to read
Timely. I've been thinking of picking up my first one and debating which way to go. Thank you!
Im gonna get me a digital torque adapter,but I dont need it beyond head bolts,rod and main bolts. You can recalibrate your click style torque wrench with it too.
I love harbor, freight, and let me tell you something. Not all of us grew up with fathers, or men who could help us work on the cars, house, and so on. The men that work at most harbor freight‘s are the reason why I go there. Because a lot of these guys have got 30 to 40 years in the industry and just will flat out tell you that with what you’re doing this tool will be able to do it for you Without breaking the bank. Not to mention, the lifetime warranty, where you just walk in hand, your tool to them they give you a high five and you walk out it’s pretty nice. I have a big boy money now and I still shop at Harbor freight because they burned it. I’ve been going to Harbor freight for 20 years and I’m 35 now. I still have tools that I first got from them it worked just fine and I’ve gotten tools that I’ve had to take back a few times but the thing I like about harbor freight is that they cycle through their stuff and the stuff that’s good stays in the stuff it’s not so good they have quality control that moves it out of there store.
I have three click style wrenches and I never trusted any one of them since the time I broke off a manifold bolt waiting for the click. I bought the HF digital adapter and with a couple of bolts and a little welding I can calibrate my click wrenches to where I can trust them. And of course use the digital adapter when I can. However the battery kept dieing since I use it so seldom and I was afraid of corrosion so I pull the battery out after I use it.
I use my Quinn torque adapters (new style ones) to calibrate my click wrench... the Quinn adapters are CONSISTENT and very accurate. Yours is the old one 3 in 1.. the new ones are broken down into 3 sizes the gen 2 is even better! lights just like a snap on digital torque wrench
Do these Quinn adapters (old and newer) need to be recalibrated after some period of time?
@@LLF1234 they calibrate right when you turn them in automatically. So as long as you don’t overload them they will last a very long time. Like if it says “25-250ft lbs” I would not go any over 150ft lbs - if you need to go higher then buy the next size up… They make a 3/4” version that goes over 500 foot pounds.
@@CL-yp1bs Thanks for the reply! I'll be using them mostly for torquing engine and transmission drain plugs, lugnuts, and maybe sparkplugs on an old honda CRV. The range would be 13 - 80ft lbs, so I'll probably get the 3/8". And maybe torque the sparkplugs (13ft lbs) by hand.
@@LLF1234 I have an aluminum block, so I actually specifically bought mine to make sure my spark plugs are torqued correctly but not I use it on all sorts of stuff including drain plugs transmission pan bolts, lug nuts, and more.
I own the 3/8” and The 1/2” version. I use the 3/8” more often especially for smaller items that I really don’t want to over torque. There is a lot of crossover on the ratings so unless you’re doing heavy duty stuff the 3/8 should work for the majority of tasks you need it for
I still have the old torque tube type wrench. Haven't used it in a while but they were the type a DIYer would get in the 60s, 70s.
All of my torque wrenches have the large "needle" that moves. Love them.
I think there are two specific demographics here. One is the person that needs to start using a torque wrench because they are occasionally talking their wheels off for rotations or other basic service. They should likely just get a clicker and make sure they use it. The other is the person that does some or all of their own work, and needs a way to properly tighten the critical stuff. They likely will own both, but could start with either. For me, I already own clickers and a few beam style. A bunch of them. I've resisted the electronic gadgets because I already have a way to properly tighten things. If I had to start over, I'd probably get both. I'd still want my everyday lug nut tool to be a clicker. I'd drop and break those plastic things, or I'd go to use it and the battery would die. Owning both gives another advantage, you can check one against another and if they don't match you know you have a problem.
Appreciate the introduction to these torque meters which I was not aware of. Due to the fact that I always seem to struggle with space under the hood of modern vehicles, I don't think they would be ideal for me in regular use. One application they might work for however is checking the accuracy of my torque wrenches. Finally, I started my career in test equipment calibration including torque wrenches and the most accurate ones that held their calibration the best were made by Sturtevant Richmont, one of the pioneering torque wrench companies. I still insist on that brand to this day.
During my time in gage calibration we had an old Sturtevant Richmont that came with a job a customer outsourced to us and they supplied all the tooling. The handle was all beat to hell and literally bowed 2 inches. We checked it just to see how far out of calibration it was but it was still in calibration! We retired it anyway but that impressed the hell out of me. I actually have an old Sturtevant Richmont analog torque analyzer I picked up off Ebay to check my own wrenches at home.
@@7thkansascav468 I still have 2 old Sturtevants both of which are beam type torque wrenches. I've used them until recent years because the the 24 inch click type torque wrenches are often too long when used in close quarters.To change the subject, you know i miss the bear
Super cool, u did it again...
Just purchased the harbor freight Quinn 1/4", $40 torque tool, and it's really good to know the skinny on it so I can trust the product.
Plus, it was 20% off, plus I had $20 harbor freight bucks, paying only $12 total for the tool, how cool is that.
Great info again
Definitely appreciate it.
A valuable thumbs up.
I have read several of the comments, but have yet to see anyone use the electronic torque sensor as a calibration verifier. I think most mechanical flex-shaft or clicker torque wrenches are very close for the job at hand, but nice to be able to test the accuracy. I have yet to own an electronic torquer, but is certainly next on my tool list after viewing this video. Now I can test & calibrate the two dial-torque Starrett 1/4" torque wrenches that have been sitting in a drawer for years. Will also verify my Fat Wrench for my main hobby, too.
Yup, that's the first thing I did when I bought my digital torque adaptor (just a few hours ago!). Took the old wrench I inherited from my grandfather, set it to 30 Nm, digital read out said 29.9 Nm. Set wrench to 20 Nm, read out 19.8 Nm. Set to 30 Nm again, read out 29.6 Nm. I am impressed! Okay yea, that's not really calibration without a trusted calibration reference, but I have some faith in these tools now and it should be simple enough to build a calibrator for the digital one should I want to.
I have had my AC Delco ARM602-3 torque adapter for about 10 years, also a Tacklife 1/2" and a Husky 3/8 digital torque wrench. All work great working on my car.
I have the three HF clickers (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") and the two digital adapters. I pretty much use the two adapters to calibrate the two larger HF clickers.
As a retired professional calibrator, each type has its own purpose. Do you use a scalpel when you need a hammer? HF is about 4% in CW direction when properly Calibrated. The problem comes with the user. Never leave a TW at any value above the lowest indicated setting. Have it Calibrated once a year or if dropped. Again, how critical is the Torque you're doing. Doing heads, use the good stuff. Gerneral stuff ,heck an old beam style is good enough.
I have the digital torque adapter but I also have the 3 HF click wrenches which I bought on sale for $9.99 each. I used the digital to check my click wrenches and adjust the settings on my clicks. They work fine for oil drain plugs, filter housings, brake parts, etc. I never had a problem.
I do the same. Set to peak torque and see where it clicks. I check wrenches every time before I use them.
Which digital one do I get for the check? .I have the three hf clicks, also
@@ballershanelle I have the HF Quinn 1/2"digital. It comes with 3/8 and 1/4 adapters.
For my lug nuts, I have a cheapo Autozone sourced 1/2” drive click type wrench but it has a lifetime warranty. It really doesn’t like my backhoe lugs which are torqued to 140 ft lbs; the head blows up every 4-6 years and sends the internal parts flying. I’ve replaced it 4 times to date. I’d say I’ve gotten my $12 worth out of them (but I’m going to keep going).
I have a bending beam torque wrench that I have used successfully for over 50 years. It does everything that I need a torque wrench for.
Several people have said it and my biggest issue with digital was batteries. Seems like they always go out at a very inconvenient time. Also, I hate keeping up with batteries, they seem to disappear a lot (wife and kids need em). Also, there could be clearance issues sometimes. Still, I’m tempted to get one since they’re relatively inexpensive. Not sure yet, just have to see.
Batteries definitely an issue. If you get one, make sure to get one that uses AAAs. Some of them are funky cells that you will never have on hand, and won't find at the local big box or friendly neighborhood store.
For the old style Quinn's take the foam out of the plastic case. I noticed it is tight enough it activates the on button.
I’ve been wondering why they aren’t rechargeable like every thing else these days.
As an aircraft mechanic I couldn’t agree more on the range thing. I was so surprised when I got a chance to work at a auto shop that their manuals didn’t list a torque range . 85-95 in lb is common, 170-185 in is common . It depends on conditions and all sorts of stuff. Good and tight is fine in a lot of cases even aircraft. Not everything but a lot
I must say the Tekton torque wrenches are very accurate as "click" style go. I have the 1/4in (inch pounds) and the 1/2in. I also have the Quinn torque adapter and really like it too. As you said it just wont fit every situation.
The load I didn't see as often in these style torque boxes are 'inch' pounds, as opposed to ft pounds. This is more common in 1/4" torque wrenches for light applications. They probably exist too, I may have missed it.
Jeff mentioned these digital ones can be cycled through several measurements, including inch-lbs. I will be confirming that when I search for one myself.
@@markkempton4579 yes but they only are rated to a certain lowest limit, which you need to be aware of during use or you'll be breaking something for sure.
Have a Tekton 1/2 torque wrench and love it. Use the Quinn to check my clicker to make sure it's calibrated still. But some areas it's easier to use the torque wrench by itself do to space to fit into areas.
You said it.
Click type torque wrenches are just fine. I worked in a calibration laboratory testing and repairing all sorts of torque wrenches. Most of them passed the plus or minus 3 percent tolerance year after year after being used to assemble aircraft parts, assembling jet engines, and various other applications.
There are videos out there testing the Pittsburg click style torque wrenches against name brand click style torque wrenches. There was very little performance difference.
So brilliant for RVing. I hate packing my giant 1/2" torque wrench "just in case". Definitely getting one of these!
I use my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2 click style wrench for my Jeep lug nuts. Works fine for what I need it for, got it for 9.99 with a coupon at some point. Well worth it. Next one will be one of the digital adapter types.
I have tested my 3 in one quin torque adapter against my HF clicker and the clicker agreed with the clicker to 2 tenths of a FP. That is good enough for me, or any pro. It is cool but sometimes you can't get the adapter in places.
Great info, as usual. Please keep up the great content. Your info saves me tons of money, I am just a backyard warrior and don't need the best stuff, just stuff that works without all the bells and whistles.
Thanks for the suggestion on the torque adapters! I had been looking for a digital as an upgrade to my very old Craftsman digi-torque clicker (which I had also left torqued in storage). I just made my first trip today to a harbor freight and got the 3/8 Quinn (they were out of the 1/2). Wow what store!
I have a Princess auto torque wrench set (Princess auto is Canada's Harbor Freight ) and had them checked for accuracy on the snap on truck and they were bang on.
I love the Quinn digital torque adapters. No confusion if you torqued 8lbs or 10lbs
Thanks for the review. I've been thinking about getting one of these for torquing wheel lug nuts. Easier than digging out my click-style torque wrench and cranking it up a bunch of turns to the correct torque setting. Plus, my torque wrench is kind of a nice one so I'd prefer to save it for the more precise work instead of using it on wheels.
Perfect timing for your question. I have the Pittsburg 3/4 inch click style for wheel lugs. I ended up changing a head gasket on a B&S lawn riding mower recently. Everyone cringe, I used the 3/4 inch it goes down to 10 foot pounds. I set the first round at ten then checked with a ratchet and it seemed about right. Went a second round at 18 foot pounds, rechecked at 18 foot pounds and good to go. Did I feel good about it? Not really, but its a lawn mower engine. Next time I go to HF I'm going to pick up the 3/8" Pittsburgh, click it. Good enough for the rare items. I love the digital but with the price difference I can enjoy more beer after each job with essentially the same result.
I have used Tekton click style torque wrenches for the past 8 years with no issues at all. I have been interested in the smaller digital types like you're showing but have been weary of them due to their warranties. I may still get one, one of these days but still in no rush due to my clickers still being efficient enough. I really like the fact they're all long enough and ratchet to do any job that I've ever done and wanted to be precise enough without over torquing. If I have to transport them they ride front seat in my truck buckled in :).
I have had Tekton for about 5 years and have never had an issue.
I like the click style for the feel, but I got that digital one you mentioned before and really haven't gone back.
I apologize ahead of time for my ignorance. But isn't one of the advantages of click-style torque wrenches that it has that slight pause to stop you from going over the set torque spec? I completely agree with your premise and in fact do have a digital since I'm a diy'er, but I usually find myself going over. My assumption has been that for a professional needing to be more precise, used the "click" as a physical stopping point from going over.
Maybe it's just me but I have trouble not going over the set torque with digital. Bending down or trying to look at the display in awkward positions is also difficult. The vibration is confusing and the beeping interferes with my music (Motivation gone) . I have that gearwrench 1/2" and the 3/8" neiko adapter but I have trust issues with these. I find myself going back to my click style 1/2" and 3/8" craftsman professional USA made torque wrenches (I had trust issues with the click style also coming from a Greatneck needle scale version which I still have)... If it doesn't need to be accurate then it defeats the purpose of torquing anything then. I saw these in harbor and they went quick on clearance and now the peg is full of the new ones. It seems they're not selling. Amazon has many versions of them too now. It's just going to take time for me to get used to them. I'm shopping around for the torque screw driver ones for lower applications... Prices are high right now just waiting. Capri is nice looking. Gearwrench is pricey.
Space in the tool box. You bring up a good point. My ICON 1/2" Flex is a beast and can't fit into any of my tool boxes.
I have the click type cheaper type wrench. The last time I used it was to replace the heads on the truck. I would buy the adapter type if I need to replace my old one. I may have more uses when I start rebuilding my Citicar. I like getting the torque correct on the lithium batteries and electric motor terminals.
Thanks! My 45 plus year old Craftsman broke and I've not had one for awhile. I will check these out.
The teeth in my ½-inch Craftsman that I bought in the late '60s clicks when I reach the set torque … except some of the teeth broke and I had to replace it. I rebuilt the old one anyway, although the ball bearing doesn't fit exactly right. Then I needed another torque wrench for 140 lb-ft lug nuts and bought an EPAUTO wrench. I also have digital ¼-inch, 3/8-inch and ½-inch torque wrenches (setting is visible in a window; no matching a mark to printed numbers in the shaft). That click is what really makes the wrenches useful. Tprques wrenches are needed on more than just lug nuts. Replacing suspension and brake parts also require torque wrenches.
I was waiting for you to talk about the old-school style torque wrench. those are the best
Bought the 3/8 inch to do my spark plugs in the summer. just bought the 1/2 inch today. looking forward to being able to use it.
Man, I have always been a little averse to torque wrenches and I've avoided several of the jobs that require one. I'll hit up the HF Torque Adapter first. It sounds super intuitive. Thanks!
It’s great to see your face in this video as opposed to staring at a cartoon bear. We pay more attention when looking at your face and your expressions then to the bear because we tend to look away on and off. You give us great information; thanks.
Started with beam-type, drooled on expensive click-type, finally got them, THEN got the 1st gen Pittsburgh adapter. Never looked back.
I am not about to build a high end engine with a cheap ass harbor freight Torque wrench period.
I just bought my first digital torque wrench and it was a game changer for me.
I have recently moved from click-style torque wrench to buying both the 3/8" and the 1/2" Quinn digital torque adapters. I got both because they have different ranges of measurable torque.
I had an HF click style, and I broke a bolt because I wasn't sure how to properly torque it and it was my first time using a torque wrench. Glad I found this video as I am going to try this digital adapter instead!
Loved the comparisons. I have an HF click style; for no more than I'll use it, it's all I need.
Love my Tekton torque wrenches, I checked their accuracy and it was within 5%, much closer at the center of their range
i have the teckton 1/2" and its been great but i have been sysballing the adapters just to keep in the tool box in my truck. like you say it just makes life simpler and thats always a good thing.
makes total sense to measure tork rotationally rather than linear, just had a nightmare with a failed click torque wrench. Already have one of these for larger settings but it was only 10nm so had to rely on a click 1/4 inch just bought the smaller adapter, wish i had done that last week
At harbor freight yesterday I just bought the 1/4 inch 3/8 and 1/2 Pittsburgh torque wrenches for 11.99 a piece for their spring Black Friday sale, honestly I don’t think there will be a better deal around for torque wrenches then that in 2023
I bought all three sizes from harbor freight. I'm just a backyard home type mechanic, but wanted to do things right.
By the time I decided to use them, they seemed like I was cranking way too hard and sometimes still not clicking. I even put it in the vise on a fairly low setting and they wouldn't click. All three did this.
Out of warranty, I just bought all three Lexicon from Amazon and except for maybe the 1/4" wrench, they also failed and then failed the vice test.
Now with a shop full of ones that don't work or I can trust, I'm stuck. And my tool budget for these is depleted. 😡
These don't click, they have LED display and beep. 😂
Mr. den of tools I bought a click style Icon torque wrench outside box said lifetime warranty. The fine print in the manual said 90 days on the calibration. So essentially it is a 90 day warranty on calibration which is why you buy the wrench. When I am torqueing my plastic head it needs to be accurate to inch pounds.
Thanks for the review. I'm going to pick one of these up and retire my 43 year old Craftsman click torque wrench.
Bought a 3/8 snap on torque wrench for my work in aviation maybe 25 years ago. I test it against a calibrated acratork unit every time I set it (so I don't have to get it recalibrated annually myself) - in 25 years it hasn't missed a beat. These days I could probably spend half what I spent on the snap on and have something as good, but hell.... this thing has lasted like snap on should.
Okay, so where do we go from now? FIt a digital torque adaptor to my click wrench and set to the maximum permitted value less 2%, then work to the digital scale to get to the median torque, leaving the click wrench to give a top end torque in case the adapter has failed. Mechanical engineering generally fails progressively compared to digital engineering - rather than have a single failure (potentially resulting in 195 deaths) using a digital device which could fail between the acratork and the point of use, my conclusion is.... nah! I am sticking with what I know to be reliable.
If you don't need the clearance that traditional style torque wrenches offer, then these adapters are great. Personally I would own both styles, and use the traditional ones when needed.
Edit: typo
Lots of reasons to stick with click style. No batteries required - what happens if you are on the side of the road repairing and batteries go. Then there is issue with water proof - I know I have worked in rain on my car. The housing on the electrics look flimsy on cheaper ones - would it handle being dropped or having bigger tools dropped on it. Those electric ones look bulky too - would it fit in tight spaces? With all these points in mind, would I trust it or go with the more sturdy backup?
I’ll stick to a click type torque wrench. I don’t want to deal with batteries in the electronic ones. I’ve heard the icon is almost as accurate as the snap on torque wrench and it’s over $300 less.
I torque so infrequently that I still have a dial wrench from 35 years ago.
It doesn't stop me from wanting a shiny new digital one though.
The real question is which one doesn't kill batteries when not in use. I bought a digital torque adapter a couple years ago and stopped using it because every time I pulled it out the batteries would be dead. I started taking the batteries out in between uses and they would be fine. But who wants to have to take batteries in and out to use a tool? The problem is they don't have a real power switch. The power button they implement has to have a microcontroller looking for the button press to wake it up. Its not off, its just in a low power state which still draws enough current to drain the batteries in 6 months. I wish more tests people do on these would measure this lower power ("off" state) current draw.
Bear,again, idk how you know. But I just went and purchased the Quinn. I was like,does bear have video on these? And then you post this! Thanks bear!!! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and thoughts!!!
I bought an adapter long ago, the idea was to calibrate my click wrenches for critical applications, like aircraft. But lately, a lot of specs I noticed use angles , not torque. Example , turn till just tight then add 90 degree to it. Maybe I should add an angle card indicator.
Have one of those tools. Find it weird that you torque to spec then go x amount of degrees past that. Guess stretching bolts doesn't hurt.
Been eying these for a while. Hoping to see a few more ruggedized versions come to market. I do a lot of cold work (down to -50) and also occasional humid or just straight up wet. So something a bit more insulated for the battery and definitively weather-proof. I have used those smart sockets though before at a site and I wish I could afford one.
you just saved me a bunch of money and time. I would like more info about what tools I don't need to buy.
I still have my Husky 1/2". It's fine for DIY jobs. But I also have the Quinn digital adapter, and honestly there isn't much else I'll need after that.
Are they pro? Not at all. But they get "my" jobs done at sufficient accuracy.
I thought this was going to be clickbait but it turned out to be helpful, i didn't know the adaptors existed, thanks
When I was a tech I never ever needed a 1/4" torque wrench. All the suspension stuff was 3/8 and big stuff was 1/2" IMO just buy a 1/2" and use your adapters when needed and if you are doing the odd big stuff or trucks get the 3/4. The only oddity is going to be TTA (torque to angle) which the electronic wrenches can handle that without a separate gauge.
I have one of the old craftsman electronic torque adapters. It was the first of the affordable ones but it had a separate sensor and readout box.
I loved your take on this. I am a DYI guy and use the HF click style 99% of the time for the simple reason of space. I have the digital block and was really excited to use it but found it bulky getting into tight spots which for some reason seems to be most of my work. I will not fight or down anyone for what they use simply because that means they are using something other than ugga duggas or bob pounds. I have followed too many of those guys in doing repairs. Keep up the great job. I always look forward to watching your videos. I do miss the bear animation. 🤣🤣🤣
I use a torque adapter to check accuracy of my click torque wrenches.
This was really helpful info for me, I don't claim to be a professional I love my cars but like most of us I work 50+ hours a week and I cant trust garages near me as they have made so many mistakes with my cars so I'm currently building up my garage with new tools so I can do the work needed myself but finding a good torque wrench is like going down the rabbit hole.
I just bought an ICON 1/2" torque wrench last year, along with the Pittsburg Pro 3/8" torque wrench. I'll either get one of these adapters a year or two from now so I don't need to recalibrate the 3 total torque wrenches I own for a few more years. My old Craftsman 1/2" needs to be calibrated, and the main reason why I bought the ICON, calibration shops I called wanted to charge me at least $100, from what I remember. I'm a DIY mechanic, but I did just do a clutch job on my Jetta, and it needs a camshaft which both jobs require specific torque specs.
I have the quinn and Its a couple years old....works perfect.I love the accuracy and think its a much wiser choice for the occasional user perfect for the occasional tire changer.Very easy to use....and makes more sense to me over any common click style torque wrench.I like that if necessary,I can use it on important stuff and trust the accuracy.I questioned its longevity...but not no more,they are solid and reliable.
I don’t have a need for torque wrenches yet. I have a 24” Pittsburgh half inch breaker bar when needed. I have three 4- way lug wrenches for our three vehicles. I haven’t had a lug nut to come loose since I’ve been changing tires possibly as long as you. Been thinking about the half inch drive Pittsburgh torque wrench the clicker to see how close I am. Keep’m coming
I just recently purchased the 1/2 and 3/8" Lexivon click torque wrenches and plan on buying the 1/4" also and love them. I will definitely be checking into these adapters as well.
Meanwhile in the snapon boardroom..."inexpensive, accurate, and widely available??!! Gentlemen, we must put a stop to this immediately!!...hey, I didn't get a harumph outa that guy."