Don't Buy a Torque Wrench With Out Hearing This First!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
- Don't Buy a Torque Wrench With Out Hearing This First!
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Quinn Torque Adapters: bit.ly/3L8sXrC
Neiko Torque Adapters: amzn.to/3YtejOJ
ACDelco Torque Adapters: amzn.to/3J4FiKL
Durofix Torque Adapters: amzn.to/3Jsffil
EP Auto Torque Adapter: amzn.to/3ZPr7A8
EWK Torque Adapter: amzn.to/3ZMR5US
Icon Torque Wrench: bit.ly/3SYoMkd
Pittsburgh Torque Wrenches: bit.ly/3F5nKgI
Lexivon Torque Wrenches: amzn.to/3mH2esk
Tekton Torque Wrenches: bit.ly/3SZFzmO
GearWrench Digital Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3FaE2Vw
Snapon Torque Wrench: bit.ly/3T0Vxxa
RAD Smart Socket: bit.ly/3JnbH0H
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Super interesting! I used to be an industrial salesman for Snap-on, they made the best torque wrenches available at the time, as far as I'm aware. I had one nuclear power plant that I called on that used Snap-on wrenches exclusively. They had hundreds on site, but they also had their own metrology lab and torque measuring standards that were traceable to NIST, and the wrenches were calibrated every 90 days, so it was a tight operation. They used exclusively Snap-on because Snap-on were the best, though they didn't use our most accurate wrenches, which were dial wrenches. Instead they used click wrenches which were generally 4% accurate. The dial wrenches were 2%, though Snap-on had some (very expensive) precision wrenches that were 1%. Actually, they were all expensive, let's face it. But the fact that the MOST expensive wrenches from the best maker out there are now bettered in a lab by these new electronic adapters that sell for tens of dollars rather than hundreds or even thousands really is a testament to the quality of these new tools. Pretty amazing.
BTW, users of click wrenches should know that the biggest impediment to accuracy is the user's (often poor) technique. We could illustrate this with a torque tester - hide the display, tell the user to pull the wrench to 100 ft lbs or whatever it was set at, then watch their surprise when the display revealed they'd actually over-torqued by 40% or whatever. People have different ideas: they have to jerk the wrench, or it has to click three times (pop, pop, pop), you name it. I saw all sorts of bad technique. For anyone reading this that has that style of wrench, you pull steadily, and the instant you feel the click you stop.
FYI, Snap-on at least advised that on any click wrench that adjusted at the handle micrometer-style, ALWAYS reset to the lowest setting after using the wrench. It would be a definite no-no to have wrenches set for a particular application and then left that way for convenience. It's just a spring in there that's being preloaded, the steel of the spring can take a set over time if it's left under load, destroying the accuracy of the wrench.
I'm buying a couple of these new gadgets, glad I saw your video!
This is such great info, another top on click style “ do not choke up on the handle” it will vary the numbers.
Spot on about using the proper technique when using a "clicker" wrrench but I'll argue the store at the lowest setting thing even though I do that with my own. After all it only takes a few seconds so why not just do it? But..... if you forget and put one away with out backing it off don't worry, it will be just fine. I was in charge of gage calibration for a company that built large military, heavy equipment and AG assemblies for several OEM's over a 20 year period and I've been in QA in one form another for 44 years now. We had over 300 TQ wrenches and also had our own torque analyzers, 2 analog and one electronic with the wrenches on a 90 day calibration cycle. We mostly used industrial preset wrenches such as Beloit and Sturtevant-Richmont but for some processes we used commercial micrometer adjustable wrenches locked at the required process settings. Some of those were 15-20 years old and at calibration time we would unlock them and test them at 3 different settings through their range. Unless the wrench had actually been damaged (see last sentence LOL) they never failed calibration. Once the recalibration was complete we returned them to the process settings and locked them again. Over those 20 years I never experienced a single wrench losing it's calibration from being left at a higher setting for years on end. However, using them as breaker bars and pry bars will screw them up in a heartbeat.
@@7thkansascav468 Interesting observation about your process settings not interfering with accuracy. Cannot argue with your substantial breadth of experience, as my understanding of this issue (wrenches taking a set) is theoretical, being based on what I was taught, not on what I observed. I have to think there's a reason Snap-on states this as being important, surely there was some data somewhere that suggested that lowering the setting was a good idea. But it sounds like your firm disproved pretty conclusively that leaving wrenches pre-set is inherently problematic, having repeatedly tested them throughout their range with no adverse effects being noted. Still - as you say - just takes a minute, so I back mine off just in case =]
@@georgeellison926 All manufacturers make the same recommendation as I recall. It may go back to a time when the spring quality wasn't as good in the early days of that style wrench and they did have issues but by at least the 80's I'd say it was no longer an issue. But things like that die hard, especially when engineers and warranties are involved LOL. We did make a concerted effort to make sure any clicker we did this to was in the middle 50% of it's total range however. I personally won't use a wrench outside that middle 50% range.
Snap-on is still the best in durability, failure load, accuracy without recalibration, and more. SK hand tools are not too far behind them, but are much cheaper.
Just a simple dad and amateur homeowner. I'm looking to get the HF click style, all i need it right now is to change oil, spark plugs, rotate tires, teach my kids they're way around some tools. Just need to be more accurate than good-n-tight
I love my HF click style but I also just bought a Hairich 1/2 in off Amazon for lole 2 bucks more than HF and seems to be better made as far as the adjustments
My dad's torque wrench has an extra rod coming back to a dial on the handle. Old school.
I have a bending beam torque wrench that I have used successfully for over 50 years. It does everything that I need a torque wrench for.
Started with beam-type, drooled on expensive click-type, finally got them, THEN got the 1st gen Pittsburgh adapter. Never looked back.
The clickers have advantages. 1. they are like a ratchet and can get into tight places where that huge box can't fit. 2. no batteries for something that I only use maybe once every two months, same with tire pressure gauges. That torque adapter would be GREAT for a transmission rebuild.
It's AAA batteries. Get rechargeables and use them elsewhere.
I agree. Many places a box that size would not fit
@@andrewhkim I do machining. I thought that the best measurement tools were always electronic. Until the battery gives out and you have to change them - always at a bad time. So now I have both, electronic when I really need the accuracy and convenience, and mechanical for much of the rest of the time.
All true. Just another tool in the arsenal.
Why Can't You Use An Extension To Get Into Tight Places?
I've been using my granddads Montgomery ward beam style torque wrench for years and never ever had any problems
For grins, do what I did and check it aganst a brand new, just-calibrated Spap-on. Mine was with 5% over the entire range after being tossed into in a drawer with other tools in an unheated garage between uses for 40 years. Can't imagine the battery in the "digital" versions or the circuit boards inside could do as well.
Jeff, your old eyes comment really hit home. I have the HF click wrenches and my biggest gripe with them is how difficult they are to read even with glasses. The numbers and lines look to be stamped and the whole piece is chromed with nothing to highlight the settings. I even tried filling in with a paint pen but the depth is too little and the paint wiped away when I cleaned the paint from the top surface.
Those digital adapters are tempting but as other commenters have pointed out they move you away from the work piece which can be an issue in high torque situations. I primarily use my 1/2" wrench for lug nuts so I'd end up with the adapter, a socket and then a spline or lock key on the end putting the head of my wrench way out in space.
Great timing. I just was going through some very old paper work. I found 3 calibration certificates for my old snap on torque wrench from the 70s and 80s. It was not used for lug bolts or nuts. I had a cheap craftsman one for that. I also had an inch pound one for certain jobs.
Yep, I got all 3 of the HF ones back when they were $9.99 each👍 all I do is spark plugs, lug nuts, etc so works great! And all for $30😳 can't beat it🤷♂️
Agreed. Only reason I have the quin 3/4 inch is axil nuts everything else is done with the pittsburgh ones
Yup. I have double of all three. I keep a spare 1/2 in my trackday bucket I use at the race track.
Agreed
Link of what you got? Please
@@rhoodj I got em couple years ago. Just gotta keep an eye out for when they're $9.99.
Just to add too this I work as a mechanic in the airforce and we only have snapon tools in my shop. Our torque wrenches come FROM THE TOOL TRUCK off by more than 5% as per our dedicated testing shops. We rarely have a testing tool from the "top brands" pass our testers. Maybe 1 in 12 and that's being generous. I'll have to look into these so thank you bear!
That's because the tool truck wrenches are being fumbled about as the truck moves. Torque wrenches need to be stored in a low traffic area, with minimal movement and vibration. Also a lot of them are usually a year or more so old, as they are the private inventory of the franchisee.
Read the instructions on a snappy torque wrench. They call for calibration once year!
It's really easy to test any shop torque wrench for accuracy or calibrate one using a ruler, a string and a known weight. (A digital kitchen scale is often with 1% full range out of the box from China and stays accurate as long as it isn't dropped, or drowned, and is kept clean and free of debris.
Timely. I've been thinking of picking up my first one and debating which way to go. Thank you!
Love my Quinn digital. Takes no space and quite easy to use. Jeff I also appreciate you comment on working for yourself. When I was starting my first company my dad (a small business owner) told me the bad news news and the good news. The boss is still an idiot but at least you are related to him.
It does take space when you have to torque down an alternator pulley
Great info, as usual. Please keep up the great content. Your info saves me tons of money, I am just a backyard warrior and don't need the best stuff, just stuff that works without all the bells and whistles.
Back before Harbor Freight had stores everywhere, I mail ordered a bunch of stuff from them, a click-type 1/2 inch torque wrench being one of them. Years later when I was working at CarMax, we had a torque wrench calibration machine, so I tested out my torque wrench and it was within a couple foot pounds (I don't remember exactly anymore, but it was really close!). I ended up giving that one to my dad a few years after that and bought another one from Harbor Freight.
Yes. I've seen new HF torque wrenches tested in a lab and they were quite accurate (within 1%). Only caveat was that before storing, set the torque back to zero to preserve torque accuracy.
@@jeffworst9939 Yeah, with spring tensioned torque wrenches, always release all tension from the spring when storing. Probably not everybody knows that.
Thanks! Went out and bought a HF 1/2" and am quite happy with it!
I've used many torque wrenches of different styles over the years. Lately though, I've "fallen in love" with my 3/8" and 1/2" drive digitals. I also have one of the torque adapters and they're very nice as long as there's room to use them. As far as warranty on the Pittsburgh clicker torque wrenches, the way I read it in the user manual, the lifetime warranty only covers breakage. If you link at the manual, it tells you how often and where to send it for recalibration.
I asked the folks at my local HF about calibration and they let me exchange my Pittsburgh Click-type no questions asked. You're mileage may vary, but they told me ALL Pittsburgh *HAND TOOLS* (they were very specific about that) have lifetime warranties.
I bought a cheap flex shaft torque wrench from Sears in the early seventies, I took it to work and checked it on our torque wrench calibration station which was certified recently. My cheap torque wrench was within 1 ft/lb across the scale up to 120 ft/lb.
The Sears clicker ones were ALWAYS the best. Every Black Friday like $40!
Mine too! Big and awkward but always accurate
I worked at Disney as ride tech and they have torque testers in every corner ,i bring the old version of quin for test at every 50 lbs and blows my mind was better than the snapon clicker we had at shop. Around 1%. That was brand new, have to test now after a couple years of use
I had an HF click style, and I broke a bolt because I wasn't sure how to properly torque it and it was my first time using a torque wrench. Glad I found this video as I am going to try this digital adapter instead!
Thank you for this video. Im going to. E doing wheel bearing with 175lb torque and was dreadibg buying a 150 buck torque wrench for something rarely used. This answered it for me
Thanks for the review. I've been thinking about getting one of these for torquing wheel lug nuts. Easier than digging out my click-style torque wrench and cranking it up a bunch of turns to the correct torque setting. Plus, my torque wrench is kind of a nice one so I'd prefer to save it for the more precise work instead of using it on wheels.
I have the quinn and Its a couple years old....works perfect.I love the accuracy and think its a much wiser choice for the occasional user perfect for the occasional tire changer.Very easy to use....and makes more sense to me over any common click style torque wrench.I like that if necessary,I can use it on important stuff and trust the accuracy.I questioned its longevity...but not no more,they are solid and reliable.
Thanks for the suggestion on the torque adapters! I had been looking for a digital as an upgrade to my very old Craftsman digi-torque clicker (which I had also left torqued in storage). I just made my first trip today to a harbor freight and got the 3/8 Quinn (they were out of the 1/2). Wow what store!
i have the teckton 1/2" and its been great but i have been sysballing the adapters just to keep in the tool box in my truck. like you say it just makes life simpler and thats always a good thing.
I'm looking at the Quinn... so far am pleased with the whole Quinn line. Plan on using the digital to keep clickers in calibration. Thanks Bear!
I have had my AC Delco ARM602-3 torque adapter for about 10 years, also a Tacklife 1/2" and a Husky 3/8 digital torque wrench. All work great working on my car.
So brilliant for RVing. I hate packing my giant 1/2" torque wrench "just in case". Definitely getting one of these!
Perfect timing for your question. I have the Pittsburg 3/4 inch click style for wheel lugs. I ended up changing a head gasket on a B&S lawn riding mower recently. Everyone cringe, I used the 3/4 inch it goes down to 10 foot pounds. I set the first round at ten then checked with a ratchet and it seemed about right. Went a second round at 18 foot pounds, rechecked at 18 foot pounds and good to go. Did I feel good about it? Not really, but its a lawn mower engine. Next time I go to HF I'm going to pick up the 3/8" Pittsburgh, click it. Good enough for the rare items. I love the digital but with the price difference I can enjoy more beer after each job with essentially the same result.
Have used my beam type torque wrench since the early eighties. Haven’t had to change the batteries yet.
Man, I have always been a little averse to torque wrenches and I've avoided several of the jobs that require one. I'll hit up the HF Torque Adapter first. It sounds super intuitive. Thanks!
As an aircraft mechanic I couldn’t agree more on the range thing. I was so surprised when I got a chance to work at a auto shop that their manuals didn’t list a torque range . 85-95 in lb is common, 170-185 in is common . It depends on conditions and all sorts of stuff. Good and tight is fine in a lot of cases even aircraft. Not everything but a lot
Thanks for the advice, I have a very old, never been calibrated craftsman inchpound wrench I bought a very long time ago because my old buick just wasn't worth being all that accurate, now I got a newer car and would rather not risk destroying aluminum parts by over tightening like I would do when everything was made of either iron, steel or rust, just tighten till it started to squeak and you're golden. I never knew there was the digital option, while it might not fit in all spaces it would be a nice general option for me as a casual diy'er. I am certainly not about to throw $600 at something I will use once every couple years.
Loved the comparisons. I have an HF click style; for no more than I'll use it, it's all I need.
I just recently purchased the 1/2 and 3/8" Lexivon click torque wrenches and plan on buying the 1/4" also and love them. I will definitely be checking into these adapters as well.
Batteries. For an infrequent use item that does factor into the equation. That said the HF Quinn uses either AA or AAA so most people probably have some in a drawer.
18 min commercial.
I just subscribed my bad I thought I already did. Been watching for awhile now very informative reviews. I happen to own the Quinn first Gen and love it. Bought it for 28 on sale they have jumped in price but are still worth it. You are correct they won't work in every situation but they work in most.
All of my torque wrenches have the large "needle" that moves. Love them.
I bought thr Tekton set and checked their accuracy. They were right on. Very happy with the quality
I'm certain to give it a go. Good talk that was. Thanks 😊
My torque adapter has been great, but as you said, sometimes it’s unusable because it won’t fit in tight spaces. I know digital is better but there is something satisfying about the feel of the click type wrenches.
Bear,again, idk how you know. But I just went and purchased the Quinn. I was like,does bear have video on these? And then you post this! Thanks bear!!! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge and thoughts!!!
I still have the old torque tube type wrench. Haven't used it in a while but they were the type a DIYer would get in the 60s, 70s.
I just bought my first digital torque wrench and it was a game changer for me.
I had one old metal bar and gauge. Then i got a set of click ones. A year ago i got the Quinn digital adapter. I love it.
I have a 1/2" Quinn digital torque wrench- I bought it for a specific purpose, and yes, I love it- BUT- then I was in HF looking for breaker bar and ran across that Quinn torque adapter. I bought one for ~40 bucks, and haven't taken my digital torque wrench out of the box since. Those new adapters are damned tempting, but I'll stick with my Gen 1 for now. Great stuff Jeff!
I have recently moved from click-style torque wrench to buying both the 3/8" and the 1/2" Quinn digital torque adapters. I got both because they have different ranges of measurable torque.
I loved your take on this. I am a DYI guy and use the HF click style 99% of the time for the simple reason of space. I have the digital block and was really excited to use it but found it bulky getting into tight spots which for some reason seems to be most of my work. I will not fight or down anyone for what they use simply because that means they are using something other than ugga duggas or bob pounds. I have followed too many of those guys in doing repairs. Keep up the great job. I always look forward to watching your videos. I do miss the bear animation. 🤣🤣🤣
I have a Snap On click type torque wrench, use it everyday in the shop. I am the only one that uses a torque wrench regularly. The long time mechanics only use theirs on engine components. They are uncannily accurate in a “feel” of how much torque to apply. I have personally seen mechanics get exactly on or within a few ft-lbs.
What scares me is mechanics that when they put on wheels use an air driven impact wrench for their torque wrench. It is fast but it makes it real tough to change a flat.
@@drwisdom1 They should use torque rods and set the impact's torque low so it don't do that. I've seen them actually warp rotors, bend drums, and stretch / break off studs.
I have seen too many deviancies do to using a torque stick. It comes off as a lazy and want to crack work out faster method. It has even been proved that their "rated torque spec" is not accurate due to mechanics using overpowering impacts.
Thanks for the review. I'm going to pick one of these up and retire my 43 year old Craftsman click torque wrench.
This was really helpful info for me, I don't claim to be a professional I love my cars but like most of us I work 50+ hours a week and I cant trust garages near me as they have made so many mistakes with my cars so I'm currently building up my garage with new tools so I can do the work needed myself but finding a good torque wrench is like going down the rabbit hole.
Been eying these for a while. Hoping to see a few more ruggedized versions come to market. I do a lot of cold work (down to -50) and also occasional humid or just straight up wet. So something a bit more insulated for the battery and definitively weather-proof. I have used those smart sockets though before at a site and I wish I could afford one.
Thanks! My 45 plus year old Craftsman broke and I've not had one for awhile. I will check these out.
The teeth in my ½-inch Craftsman that I bought in the late '60s clicks when I reach the set torque … except some of the teeth broke and I had to replace it. I rebuilt the old one anyway, although the ball bearing doesn't fit exactly right. Then I needed another torque wrench for 140 lb-ft lug nuts and bought an EPAUTO wrench. I also have digital ¼-inch, 3/8-inch and ½-inch torque wrenches (setting is visible in a window; no matching a mark to printed numbers in the shaft). That click is what really makes the wrenches useful. Tprques wrenches are needed on more than just lug nuts. Replacing suspension and brake parts also require torque wrenches.
I use my Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 1/2 click style wrench for my Jeep lug nuts. Works fine for what I need it for, got it for 9.99 with a coupon at some point. Well worth it. Next one will be one of the digital adapter types.
Bought the 3/8 inch to do my spark plugs in the summer. just bought the 1/2 inch today. looking forward to being able to use it.
Good information Jeff, have a good one!!
I am actually glad I saw this before I bought a torque wrench! I know little to nothing about working on engines or maintenance because I haven’t needed to know anything like that. I now NEED to know how to do my own riding mower maintenance, but that’s literally the only thing I would need a torque wrench for. I’ve been worried about paying so much for something that I won’t be using on a daily basis. I know how much we pay for the ones that the guys at work use in the oilfield and how much it costs to have them calibrated, and there’s no way I could pay that kind of money. I could just buy a whole new lawnmower! 😂 This gives me a good reference to shop for one that will be appropriate for my needs. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this!
I torque so infrequently that I still have a dial wrench from 35 years ago.
It doesn't stop me from wanting a shiny new digital one though.
Meanwhile in the snapon boardroom..."inexpensive, accurate, and widely available??!! Gentlemen, we must put a stop to this immediately!!...hey, I didn't get a harumph outa that guy."
Ah man, I'm glad I'm not the only one that's noticed and been missing ClientGraphic's channel. I thought he offered some really great testing, and yeah, that torque socket provides some amazing data with its graphing capabilities. I think I saw he's still out there somewhere, only MIA on his review channels specifically. Hope he'll be able to return one day!
Good to know. Other guys tested extensions with torque wrenches and as long as it's a straight extension, as in "in line" with the digital torque adapters, then the reading doesn't change. Just in case the adapter is too big to fit close to the nut/bolt but an extension is OK.
My issue with the mini digital torque adapter is that the battery was always going dead while stored. I started to take the battery out each time I was done using it, but that's a pain to install and take out with greasy hands. So it ends up being easier to use the full size click torque wrench. Which I check the calibration on fairly regularly, because I've had a failure in the past. If while you are torquing and it feels wrong, don't keep torquing waiting for that click. Snapping a bolt makes for more work. I had a torque wrench that had a window on the handle that you could see the number for the torque setting... the handle moved up or down the handle so I was looking at the wrong torque numbers, so it was setting to a higher torque than intended, snapped a bolt. Don't have that window style torque wrench no more.
The torque wrenches are easy to roughly check if you have a fish scale and mark 1 foot on the torque wrench handle from the center of the socket. Set the torque wrench to click at something like 40 ft-lbs. Then pull torque on something (maybe a wheel nut) using the fish scale at a right angle to the handle. Pull the wrench with the fish scale and read off the pounds to pull at the 1 foot mark. Keep the scale at a right angle to the torque wrench. The scale should read the same pounds as your torque setting. Of course you have to have an accurate fish scale, so you've got to calibrate that. Weight a bucket of water, 1 kg per liter, about 8.34 pounds per US gallon, so 4.8 US gallons is 40 lbs, 18.1 liters. Or use a bathroom scale and weight your bucket of water/calibration weight, but you'll need to check the calibration on that scale... round and round we go.
Maybe it's time to check out a new digital adapter. Might be able get one that doesn't drain the battery.
I must say the Tekton torque wrenches are very accurate as "click" style go. I have the 1/4in (inch pounds) and the 1/2in. I also have the Quinn torque adapter and really like it too. As you said it just wont fit every situation.
I was rebuilding a big ol 3 section pump last night where i needed to have a torque wrench this wouldn't have fit, but i like the idea
I just bought the Harbor Freight Icon ½" drive digital torque wrench. The $350 list price was discounted by 20%, so I got it for $280.
One of the things I like about it is its extreme range, from 12.5 ft*lb to 250 ft*lb. I also like the fact that it is using a strain gauge and not a mechanical spring to measure the torque. Barring shock impact, I think that the electronic strain gauge will maintain its calibration accuracy for longer than the spring-loaded mechanical type. This may be one of the reasons that HF is giving a lifetime warranty on it. Except for brand prestige, I can't see spending 3 to 4 times as much for a Snap-on that really doesn't offer any thing of significance over the Icon torque wrench.
Love my Tekton torque wrenches, I checked their accuracy and it was within 5%, much closer at the center of their range
I bought my first clicker in 1982 for under $40 from a kragen auto parts store for engine rebuilding. I had my doubts but its accuracy was comparable to my beam type and so much more convenient. I still have it and it is still used to this day. I may be a bit anal but I check the calibration before use, usually needing no adjustment.
I have used Tekton click style torque wrenches for the past 8 years with no issues at all. I have been interested in the smaller digital types like you're showing but have been weary of them due to their warranties. I may still get one, one of these days but still in no rush due to my clickers still being efficient enough. I really like the fact they're all long enough and ratchet to do any job that I've ever done and wanted to be precise enough without over torquing. If I have to transport them they ride front seat in my truck buckled in :).
I have had Tekton for about 5 years and have never had an issue.
I bought a used set of Snap-on Torque wrenches about 30 years ago. They were still good when I had them checked about 5 years ago. I don't use them as much as I used to.
Appreciate the introduction to these torque meters which I was not aware of. Due to the fact that I always seem to struggle with space under the hood of modern vehicles, I don't think they would be ideal for me in regular use. One application they might work for however is checking the accuracy of my torque wrenches. Finally, I started my career in test equipment calibration including torque wrenches and the most accurate ones that held their calibration the best were made by Sturtevant Richmont, one of the pioneering torque wrench companies. I still insist on that brand to this day.
During my time in gage calibration we had an old Sturtevant Richmont that came with a job a customer outsourced to us and they supplied all the tooling. The handle was all beat to hell and literally bowed 2 inches. We checked it just to see how far out of calibration it was but it was still in calibration! We retired it anyway but that impressed the hell out of me. I actually have an old Sturtevant Richmont analog torque analyzer I picked up off Ebay to check my own wrenches at home.
@@7thkansascav468 I still have 2 old Sturtevants both of which are beam type torque wrenches. I've used them until recent years because the the 24 inch click type torque wrenches are often too long when used in close quarters.To change the subject, you know i miss the bear
i bought the 3/8 harbor freight torque wrench for 19 bucks to tighten the screws on large electrical lugs on a project where we are hooking up 3 large machines each using 400 amp 480v breakers. i needed from 375 to 500 inch lbs. so that 3/8 wrench worked great .
I love my digital torque adapters. They don't fit inside a small engine to torque down the connecting rod fasteners, though, so I still keep a 1/4" old-timey bar-style torque wrench for those. The moment technology reaches the point where a digital torque adapter will fit inside a small engine, though, I'm switching.
I have the digital torque adapter but I also have the 3 HF click wrenches which I bought on sale for $9.99 each. I used the digital to check my click wrenches and adjust the settings on my clicks. They work fine for oil drain plugs, filter housings, brake parts, etc. I never had a problem.
I do the same. Set to peak torque and see where it clicks. I check wrenches every time before I use them.
It’s great to see your face in this video as opposed to staring at a cartoon bear. We pay more attention when looking at your face and your expressions then to the bear because we tend to look away on and off. You give us great information; thanks.
Ha! My mother did tell me I was the super exception! You nailed it.
I love harbor, freight, and let me tell you something. Not all of us grew up with fathers, or men who could help us work on the cars, house, and so on. The men that work at most harbor freight‘s are the reason why I go there. Because a lot of these guys have got 30 to 40 years in the industry and just will flat out tell you that with what you’re doing this tool will be able to do it for you Without breaking the bank. Not to mention, the lifetime warranty, where you just walk in hand, your tool to them they give you a high five and you walk out it’s pretty nice. I have a big boy money now and I still shop at Harbor freight because they burned it. I’ve been going to Harbor freight for 20 years and I’m 35 now. I still have tools that I first got from them it worked just fine and I’ve gotten tools that I’ve had to take back a few times but the thing I like about harbor freight is that they cycle through their stuff and the stuff that’s good stays in the stuff it’s not so good they have quality control that moves it out of there store.
I have a click style torque wrench, but I wish I had known about the torque adapters before. I am definitely going to purchase one in the future.
Thank you, I have been looking at torque wrenches.
Click type torque wrenches are just fine. I worked in a calibration laboratory testing and repairing all sorts of torque wrenches. Most of them passed the plus or minus 3 percent tolerance year after year after being used to assemble aircraft parts, assembling jet engines, and various other applications.
There are videos out there testing the Pittsburg click style torque wrenches against name brand click style torque wrenches. There was very little performance difference.
thanks, ordered 1
I have click type and digital. I have found that for things that require a lot of torque, even as much as torqueing a tire, I don't like having another 2 or 3 inches past the socket between the wrench. I think that for being really accurate for lesser torques it would be great. Personally I would rather just go with digital torque wrenches instead of click type of the little adapter. I think quinn makes some that are fairly reasonably prices, but I have heard that it doesn't do angles. I've never done work that would require that, but if I did I would have to spend money on the high end ones.
I have read several of the comments, but have yet to see anyone use the electronic torque sensor as a calibration verifier. I think most mechanical flex-shaft or clicker torque wrenches are very close for the job at hand, but nice to be able to test the accuracy. I have yet to own an electronic torquer, but is certainly next on my tool list after viewing this video. Now I can test & calibrate the two dial-torque Starrett 1/4" torque wrenches that have been sitting in a drawer for years. Will also verify my Fat Wrench for my main hobby, too.
Yup, that's the first thing I did when I bought my digital torque adaptor (just a few hours ago!). Took the old wrench I inherited from my grandfather, set it to 30 Nm, digital read out said 29.9 Nm. Set wrench to 20 Nm, read out 19.8 Nm. Set to 30 Nm again, read out 29.6 Nm. I am impressed! Okay yea, that's not really calibration without a trusted calibration reference, but I have some faith in these tools now and it should be simple enough to build a calibrator for the digital one should I want to.
I bought the 3/8 Quinn to put a new set of spark plugs in my Tacoma. The plugs were only 13 fps of torque. It worked perfectly and saved me hundreds of dollars. The main downside, it won't work in tight spaces. I would still recommend, and I'm going to get the 1/2-inch version.
Super cool, u did it again...
Just purchased the harbor freight Quinn 1/4", $40 torque tool, and it's really good to know the skinny on it so I can trust the product.
Plus, it was 20% off, plus I had $20 harbor freight bucks, paying only $12 total for the tool, how cool is that.
Great info again
Definitely appreciate it.
A valuable thumbs up.
When I was a tech I never ever needed a 1/4" torque wrench. All the suspension stuff was 3/8 and big stuff was 1/2" IMO just buy a 1/2" and use your adapters when needed and if you are doing the odd big stuff or trucks get the 3/4. The only oddity is going to be TTA (torque to angle) which the electronic wrenches can handle that without a separate gauge.
I have one of the old craftsman electronic torque adapters. It was the first of the affordable ones but it had a separate sensor and readout box.
Bought a 3/8 snap on torque wrench for my work in aviation maybe 25 years ago. I test it against a calibrated acratork unit every time I set it (so I don't have to get it recalibrated annually myself) - in 25 years it hasn't missed a beat. These days I could probably spend half what I spent on the snap on and have something as good, but hell.... this thing has lasted like snap on should.
Okay, so where do we go from now? FIt a digital torque adaptor to my click wrench and set to the maximum permitted value less 2%, then work to the digital scale to get to the median torque, leaving the click wrench to give a top end torque in case the adapter has failed. Mechanical engineering generally fails progressively compared to digital engineering - rather than have a single failure (potentially resulting in 195 deaths) using a digital device which could fail between the acratork and the point of use, my conclusion is.... nah! I am sticking with what I know to be reliable.
I just bought an ICON 1/2" torque wrench last year, along with the Pittsburg Pro 3/8" torque wrench. I'll either get one of these adapters a year or two from now so I don't need to recalibrate the 3 total torque wrenches I own for a few more years. My old Craftsman 1/2" needs to be calibrated, and the main reason why I bought the ICON, calibration shops I called wanted to charge me at least $100, from what I remember. I'm a DIY mechanic, but I did just do a clutch job on my Jetta, and it needs a camshaft which both jobs require specific torque specs.
VIM tools now has a digital torque adapter. Tools Tested did a video on the Quinn Digital Torque Adapters and found who actually makes them and got one in 1/4' drive.
According to the instructions that came from ACDelco about their torque adapter (mine is the ½-inch) 1. Do not use it when it is OFF, 2. Do not use it to loosen - only for tightening, 3. Keep it dry, 4. Do not exceed the set torque, 5. Do not test it without it being on and set. One reviewer had the shell come apart, exposing the electronics. Most people buy this but don't actually use it until after the warranty period has been reached.
Cool tips, thanks for the video!
I listened to The Bear and picked up the 1/2 and 3/8 torque adapters with the Quinn extendable breaker bar. It worked great for a brake job I recently did. Given the torque specs for 3/8 I feel that my Icon will work just fine. It's not difficult to reach 58 foot pounds with a standard ratchet. Thanks Bear!!
you just saved me a bunch of money and time. I would like more info about what tools I don't need to buy.
I have the Tekton models. I make sure the “ exercise “ the wrench a couple times before use and usually torque 50% then 100%. Store at lowest torque. Then are fine for my occasional use
Well you've convinced me! In Canada so will have to see what other options are out there...
I have both Snapon and import that have been in service forty plus years. Ironically back in my pro mechanic days coworkers would bypass their expensive torque wrench’s and ask to borrow my import clicker that I bought from the now defunct “Took King” back in ‘81. Harbor Freight was just a catalog in the north east then. Now in Florida I have at least three within 25 miles. Point being all still function after all these years.
Years ago I bought a Craftsman torque wrench because I thought it had a great warranty. There is a nut in the handle that loosened up killing the calibration. When I called to let them to let them know what happened. No warranty, I guess it expired. They wanted $40 to re-calibrate it. I bought an inexpensive $40 click style and have had it for a very long with no trouble. These new digital torque adapters and intriguing but I rarely need a torque wrench. If I am not torquing head bolts or something like that I just use feel. I have been doing this for so long that I just know what is actually tight. Never had anything break or loosen up so I guess I'm doing it right.
I think there are two specific demographics here. One is the person that needs to start using a torque wrench because they are occasionally talking their wheels off for rotations or other basic service. They should likely just get a clicker and make sure they use it. The other is the person that does some or all of their own work, and needs a way to properly tighten the critical stuff. They likely will own both, but could start with either. For me, I already own clickers and a few beam style. A bunch of them. I've resisted the electronic gadgets because I already have a way to properly tighten things. If I had to start over, I'd probably get both. I'd still want my everyday lug nut tool to be a clicker. I'd drop and break those plastic things, or I'd go to use it and the battery would die. Owning both gives another advantage, you can check one against another and if they don't match you know you have a problem.
I have the three HF clickers (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") and the two digital adapters. I pretty much use the two adapters to calibrate the two larger HF clickers.