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I have been doing used oil analysis since 2011 on the same engine. GM recommends 5 or 10W30. Warranty is LONG since over, car has almost 200K on it. I get lower wear numbers with 0W40 (viscosity outside manufacturer recommendations), yet I have test lab (scientific evidence, NOT speculation) analysis that proves my engine is wearing out S-L-O-W-E-R with 0W40. Manufacturer recommendations are not always in your best interest; like GM recommends transmission fluid changes @ 100K unless you tow or otherwise meet "severe" duty. Hogwash. I've sprung $4K for a transmission rebuild, and the owner of the rebuild shop told me to do 30K fluid changes. Of, course, as long as the vehicle lasts PAST the warranty period, GM doesn't care. They'd rather sell you a new vehicle than help you take care of the one you've already paid for.
yes 30,000 on the trans is right, I am not a fan of 0W40 oil, have you tried a good synthetic like Pennzoil platinum? it has fewer additives because the base oil is so good, the viscosity additives in a 0W40 oil do the job but are not good for the engine
Having watched this tripe ! I still dont know what "This engine will make your car go better".....WHAT OIL? Me I use Mobil 1 ESP in both diesel & petrol cars, changed with new filter every 5k miles. THATS IT FOLKS, PLAIN & SIMPLE, WITHOUT THE HOGWASH HERE.
lol i fast forwarded through this video and never saw a brand that makes a car run better either. def going to mark this fool as don;t recommend this channel. i will say oil additives don't do anything but it would seem all the fuel injection cleaners do work . molly lube was one that didn't do more harm than good but all the others seemed to cause more friction .
I see it all the time on cars that have variable cam timing, the cam phasers work from engine oil, if the oil is dirty or getting sludge you will get a cam position code, do not be that guy it is just stupid
The group 3 full synthetics have strict guidelines as to what makes it a group III, and since group IV and V are generally well over $10 a quart, I'll take group III. And I ran group III in 4 turbo cars since the late 80s, as long as the turbo had a water cooled center bearing, group III worked great. You really lack any oil knowledge, and I don't care if you've been a mechanic since the model T.
as far as I know there are only 2 oil brands that are 100% synthetic Pennzoil platinum ( the base oil is made from natural gas not crude) and Amsoil really good oil but hard to get, all the rest are not worth buying
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Welcome to Car Computer Exchange everyone. Make sure to subscribe and hit that notification bell to stay up to date with my weekly video releases.
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2) SUBSCRIBE ➤ For Weekly Uploads
3) Please LIKE & SHARE This Video (Thanks!)
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I have been doing used oil analysis since 2011 on the same engine. GM recommends 5 or 10W30. Warranty is LONG since over, car has almost 200K on it. I get lower wear numbers with 0W40 (viscosity outside manufacturer recommendations), yet I have test lab (scientific evidence, NOT speculation) analysis that proves my engine is wearing out S-L-O-W-E-R with 0W40. Manufacturer recommendations are not always in your best interest; like GM recommends transmission fluid changes @ 100K unless you tow or otherwise meet "severe" duty. Hogwash. I've sprung $4K for a transmission rebuild, and the owner of the rebuild shop told me to do 30K fluid changes. Of, course, as long as the vehicle lasts PAST the warranty period, GM doesn't care. They'd rather sell you a new vehicle than help you take care of the one you've already paid for.
yes 30,000 on the trans is right, I am not a fan of 0W40 oil, have you tried a good synthetic like Pennzoil platinum? it has fewer additives because the base oil is so good, the viscosity additives in a 0W40 oil do the job but are not good for the engine
This clip has some serious falsehoods, & is poorly done.
Having watched this tripe ! I still dont know what "This engine will make your car go better".....WHAT OIL?
Me I use Mobil 1 ESP in both diesel & petrol cars, changed with new filter every 5k miles.
THATS IT FOLKS, PLAIN & SIMPLE, WITHOUT THE HOGWASH HERE.
lol i fast forwarded through this video and never saw a brand that makes a car run better either. def going to mark this fool as don;t recommend this channel. i will say oil additives don't do anything but it would seem all the fuel injection cleaners do work .
molly lube was one that didn't do more harm than good but all the others seemed to cause more friction .
I have never seem dirty oil turn on a check engine light. If someone goes that far to cause that then the car has way more issues than dirty oil.
Depends on piston seals but burning oil will clog up the CAT overtime
I see it all the time on cars that have variable cam timing, the cam phasers work from engine oil, if the oil is dirty or getting sludge you will get a cam position code, do not be that guy it is just stupid
This is stupid
AFTER THIS VID I THINK I WILL PUT MY UNIT IN A BEE HIVE(I FEEL STUPID AFTER THIS!!!)
Every 3000 miles!
Ya, for conventional, or crap motors.
15000 km
full synthetic oil is not synthetic AT ALL. if you want synthetic oil, which benefits turbo chargers, then buy 100% synthetic.
The group 3 full synthetics have strict guidelines as to what makes it a group III, and since group IV and V are generally well over $10 a quart, I'll take group III. And I ran group III in 4 turbo cars since the late 80s, as long as the turbo had a water cooled center bearing, group III worked great. You really lack any oil knowledge, and I don't care if you've been a mechanic since the model T.
@@lonniebeal6032 i dont lack much. Group 3 is not synthetic. if i works in your turbos, good. my cars don't have a turbo.
as far as I know there are only 2 oil brands that are 100% synthetic Pennzoil platinum ( the base oil is made from natural gas not crude) and Amsoil really good oil but hard to get, all the rest are not worth buying