Wow! Awesome invention! A significant improvement would be to use long 3 blades sandwiched together with either rivets or short bolt and nuts. The first blade has the non-cutting edge facing down. It serves as the guide fence. The second blade also has the non-cutting edge facing down, but it is offset from the bottom by a millimeter or the tooth depth. It's thickness establishes the spacing between the teeth and also serves as a depth stop, limiting the cutting depth. Finally, the third blade is the cutting blade and it of course does the cutting. The beauty of this design is that you not only get both a depth and space stop, but more cutting rigidity due to the stacked blades.
Very nicely done. I also came here after seeing the Wood by Wright version. Brilliant ideas like yours will continue to be adapted to other situations. The general idea can be used to make templates for lots of things. If you shaped the edge of a grinding wheel to cut teeth, a template like this might allow you to cut teeth directly to their desired shape without filing.
Any hacksaw should be able to cut, as they are by design harder than saw plates (except the new ones). I used 32tpi one. The key is to have the plate secured in saw vice of some kind, otherwise it will bend but not cut
I thought you were going to do it how I recut teeth. Because I use a hacksaw blade too. But not like how you did it. I actually cut the teeth with an abrasive disc. I use a notched hacksaw blade as a template when I do it.
Very ingenious method. Could you mount two whole blades in the saw with the spacer in between? Maybe with a couple of small clamps to pinch them together in the cutting region? If the spacer could be accurately sized would also limit the depth of cut to a consistent amount.
@@A2woodArt The metal case of 9V batteries is amazingly consistent. I've measured a lot of them and they're always precisely one hundredth of an inch. So I save that metal to use as shims. I guess it is 31 or 32 gauge? In US currency a nickel will get you pretty close to 14 TPI. It should be 0.071 and a nickel is 0.074 So it gets you 13.5 TPI. A penny is 18 TPI.
@@1pcfred That's not quite what you need. The tooth spacing will be the *combined* thickness of the spacer *plus* one saw blade thickness, because it's the distance from the left face of the reference blade to the left face of the cutting blade (or, equivalently, between the centres of each). My hacksaw blades are 0.008" thick so 0.074" + 0.008" = 0.082" and therefore 12.2 tpi. Actually, it's a little more complex even than that because the hacksaw kerf is wider than the blade, so if you're working left to right and reference the left side of the kerf, you would get slightly higher tpi, while referencing the right side of the kerf would get slightly lower.
@@pnt1035 perhaps it isn't precisely what anyone needs but it's what anyone has to work with. So that coupled with some foil and you could manage to get just about anything to happen. You have some incredibly thin hacksaw blades too. Mine over here are 0.040" thick.
@@1pcfredYou missed the point. I wasn't arguing with what material you use. A suitably thin coin would be as good as anything else. What I meant was that the thickness of a nickel isn't what you need as a shim for 14 tpi and pointing out that your calculation of the resulting tooth pitch was incorrect because you didn't add in the hacksaw blade width. I admit, though, I mismeasured my hacksaw blade! It's 0.7mm, not 0.2mm, so that's about 0.028", not 0.008". If your nickel is 0.074" and your blades are 0.040", your pitch would be 0.114", which is 8.8 tpi, not 14 tpi.
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Wow! Awesome invention! A significant improvement would be to use long 3 blades sandwiched together with either rivets or short bolt and nuts. The first blade has the non-cutting edge facing down. It serves as the guide fence. The second blade also has the non-cutting edge facing down, but it is offset from the bottom by a millimeter or the tooth depth. It's thickness establishes the spacing between the teeth and also serves as a depth stop, limiting the cutting depth. Finally, the third blade is the cutting blade and it of course does the cutting. The beauty of this design is that you not only get both a depth and space stop, but more cutting rigidity due to the stacked blades.
Ingenius ...love it. Thanks for this idea.
Truly a unique idea, never seen before! Yes it works, best regards from France & Canada!
Ahhh... Now I see what you meant. Very good idea! Nice meeting you. Hopefully we can meet up again soon!
Just came here from Wood by Wright, WOW.
James made quite a bit of improvements :), I will be using c-clamps next time
That's a really good idea and a very effective and inexpensive jig. Great job!
Ingenious! Well thought through, thanks for sharing
Really smart!
Thank you Sir !🎉🎉
Very nicely done. I also came here after seeing the Wood by Wright version. Brilliant ideas like yours will continue to be adapted to other situations.
The general idea can be used to make templates for lots of things. If you shaped the edge of a grinding wheel to cut teeth, a template like this might allow you to cut teeth directly to their desired shape without filing.
Brilliant
thanks
Many Thanks for sharing your idea.
What kind of hacksaw Blade are you using? I cannot sort any hacksaw capable of cutting saw steel.
Any hacksaw should be able to cut, as they are by design harder than saw plates (except the new ones). I used 32tpi one. The key is to have the plate secured in saw vice of some kind, otherwise it will bend but not cut
I thought you were going to do it how I recut teeth. Because I use a hacksaw blade too. But not like how you did it. I actually cut the teeth with an abrasive disc. I use a notched hacksaw blade as a template when I do it.
Very ingenious method. Could you mount two whole blades in the saw with the spacer in between? Maybe with a couple of small clamps to pinch them together in the cutting region? If the spacer could be accurately sized would also limit the depth of cut to a consistent amount.
Yes, this should be possible, I just went by the size of spacers I had.
@@A2woodArt The metal case of 9V batteries is amazingly consistent. I've measured a lot of them and they're always precisely one hundredth of an inch. So I save that metal to use as shims. I guess it is 31 or 32 gauge? In US currency a nickel will get you pretty close to 14 TPI. It should be 0.071 and a nickel is 0.074 So it gets you 13.5 TPI. A penny is 18 TPI.
@@1pcfred That's not quite what you need. The tooth spacing will be the *combined* thickness of the spacer *plus* one saw blade thickness, because it's the distance from the left face of the reference blade to the left face of the cutting blade (or, equivalently, between the centres of each). My hacksaw blades are 0.008" thick so 0.074" + 0.008" = 0.082" and therefore 12.2 tpi.
Actually, it's a little more complex even than that because the hacksaw kerf is wider than the blade, so if you're working left to right and reference the left side of the kerf, you would get slightly higher tpi, while referencing the right side of the kerf would get slightly lower.
@@pnt1035 perhaps it isn't precisely what anyone needs but it's what anyone has to work with. So that coupled with some foil and you could manage to get just about anything to happen. You have some incredibly thin hacksaw blades too. Mine over here are 0.040" thick.
@@1pcfredYou missed the point. I wasn't arguing with what material you use. A suitably thin coin would be as good as anything else. What I meant was that the thickness of a nickel isn't what you need as a shim for 14 tpi and pointing out that your calculation of the resulting tooth pitch was incorrect because you didn't add in the hacksaw blade width. I admit, though, I mismeasured my hacksaw blade! It's 0.7mm, not 0.2mm, so that's about 0.028", not 0.008". If your nickel is 0.074" and your blades are 0.040", your pitch would be 0.114", which is 8.8 tpi, not 14 tpi.