Paul, you are the best teacher, tutor, instructor, master...falling short of synonyms as English is not my first language. I have been pursuing woodworking as a hobby for over 30 years now, never went to any woodworking school, and learnt over eighty percent of what I know from your instructional videos. Before youtube it was a challenge to learn the skill solely by reading books. I wish I could actually become a student of yours to learn traditional woodworking. Kudos to you.
Hello Paul. I have been a Carpenter& Joiner for almost 50 years I still have my original saws I first bought as an apprentice at Browns of Wilmslow Cheshire I have lived in Australia over 30 years now and still use my saws which have become apart of me. and I still love to sharpen them. I have found your explanation video on saw sharpening and setting cross cuts and rip saws perhaps the best I have ever seen. Although these days of buy/ use and throw away saws has almost become the norm in the trade I have to admit having a resharpen able saw in your tool box is a lovely thing, to have and to hold and to cherish it evokes lovely memories for me and its special. Power tools are fantastic and do have an important place these days regarding time and labour and all that but working buy hand in the workshop and on site is something very satisfying. I am very glad I had the opportunity to experience this and it is something that has never left me. Thanks Paul for your smashing TH-cam videos Kind Regards Col Taylor
I sold tools for 23 years, both in a builders merchant and as a tool rep for a hand tool whole sales to DIY shops and other places. I have learnt more in watching your videos in a couple of nights than I ever did in those 23 years. Thank you Paul, I used to consider myself an expert but no longer, as I feel I knew very little until you taught me the right way of doing things with & to tools.
The last user I replied to saying his comment was truly humble, for some reason started a TH-cam comment argument, weird. But this OP, that's a humble comment and is a perfect example of why I watch Paul's videos and read the comments. Usually so positive and uplifting. Cheers!
Paul Sellers is simply a genius for non-nonsense practical approaches to this craft. The very simple idea of a couple of 1x2s joined with a screw and washer, with the fleam angle penciled in at intervals along the length, is so perfect, but I never would have thought of it. Sharpening a cross cut saw seems intimidating, but with this demonstration I'm sure even I can pull it off.
This might be the fourth time I have watched this video in the last year or so (Covid Time!). I have been looking for an old affordable handsaw to compliment my growing set of (wood specific) hand tools. I recently pulled the trigger on an eBay lot that granted me half a dozen saw plates and a decent handle that plays well with the group. They are dang near brand new (at about 65 years old). I am STOKED to shape the teeth and let them Chew! Your rip cut sharpening and “re-teething” videos have allowed me to cut my first dovetails with my grandfather’s, and your bench plane videos let me return his #5 to service and build my nephew and desk with a hand joined top. Mr. Sellers, I can’t say Thanks enough to express my gratitude and appreciation for the generous presentation of your hard earned experience. Thank you for helping my nephew attend Virtual school at a workspace We built together; learning side by side under your tutelage. Cheers Mate! -Christopher Castor
Update: I used this method last night directly following the previous post with incredible success. Thank you Paul and thank you to the production team for the priceless education. The craft lives on through the passage of knowledge and the implementation of the practice. -Castor
If anyone on the planet can make watching saw sharpening fun, it's Paul Sellers. Many thanks for taking the mystery out of this task. It's hard to imagine my dad used to drop his saws off for a "professional" sharpening.
Paul, I have been woodworking for 30 years and always sent my saws out. When I get back from my winter holiday, I am actually looking forward to sharpening my own saws. You have inspired me. Thanks very much for your teaching. I have an old backsaw that was given to me because it is in such bad shape. I am even going to try sharpening this one.
I find your videos not only educational but relaxing. No loud music, No flashing banners, no acting or asking for likes or subs, just getting on with it. What kind of file are you using and what size is it? The file I have wouldnt fit between the saw teeth.
Paul, with your demos; I was able to recreate the worn off teeth end of a small razor saw (4 1/2" blade) with small aluminum shims for clamping and a magnifying lens on a stand for soldering work. Amazing that it worked even though I could hardly see what was happening. I had to use a small sheet metal angle bracket to keep the file from jumping and moving side to side; and kept the file vertical.
Paul, I just discovered your channel a couple of months ago. I'm amazed at your skill with hand tools. I have started making my own tools from your videos. Thank you for everything! Keep up the fantastic work and I will follow your videos for as long as you keep making them!
I've been doing this after watching your other saw sharpening videos, and I found it didn't require much precision to make a huge improvement to the saw. Just trying to imitate you gave really good results. I am pretty broke so my setup was a dull Stanley Sharptooth (hardened to be unable to be sharpened) and a super cheap ($2) triangle file. The file is destroyed by the time I sharpen the saw, but it works better than new. Safety glasses have had to be added because the overhardening of the teeth resulted in one tooth turning into a projectile, but the results have been awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you Mr. Sellers for an enjoyable and informative lesson on crosscut handsaw sharpening. My collection of useless saws now have a new lease on life and a place in my workshop.
As always, another great video. Not only did I learn proper technique for sharpening my saw, I also learned even the best craftsmen make mistakes! I love honesty in videos, thanks for leaving that part in. I always look forward to your next videos! Thank you, Sir, for sharing your experience and knowledge.
My rip saw cuts SO MUCH better after watching your video. I bough a vintage crosscut saw (or three, lol) to try next! Thank you so much for the great info!
Thanks Paul! I have a Stanley cross cut saw, bought new about 25-30 years ago, that I have never liked. It just got worse as the years passed. It didn't cut well and always cut a beautiful curve, but never the same curve, haha! I removed the handle, reset the teeth with a punch, filed all the teeth. Many took several file strokes to get a full cut. I then sanded and refinished the handle. This is now my favorite saw, it never worked this good new! I really enjoy your videos as I am making the transition back to hand tools from power tools. Thank you!
Are you holding the saw with the index finger outside the handle? If not, that is part of the reason you cut curves. To illustrate, hold your saw out in front of you and sight down it as you would a gun. With all your fingers inside the handle, squeeze it and watch what happens. It will torque or deflect. Then hold your index finger outside the handle and squeeze. Might deflect, but not nearly as much.
I am watching this because I have just refurbished my late Dad's saws (rip and cross cut) that are at least 70 years old. Unfortunately they had been allowed to go very rusty over the last 30 years or so, so I have cleaned them off as best I could but the steel is rather pitted. The handles now look fantastic though. The cross cut saw works fairly well as is, but I am now sure a quick sharpen as per this video will transform it. I recall last using this saw in the mid 1960s and to bring it back into service is incredibly meaningful to me. Thank you so much for this video
Thank you this has inspired me to re-sharpen my old Tyzac 22" as a rip saw and now it really cuts well! Used the progressive tooth rake as well, thanks again.
I remember years ago 10 mins sharpening time they were a menace when hardpoints came along it revolutionised things mush sharper and as long as you dont lay them down on a hard surface last ages mine went in the bin couldnt sell them.
Very helpful tutorial, exspecially explaining how to file which tooth and the correct angle,i was tought to angle the file 15 deg back towards the handle 2 to 3 strokes of the file,some people have a triangular shaped handle to assist with keeping the file top flat, great video, Thanks.
I just love your videos, they are so clear and helpful and encouraged me to recondition my old tools, plane and chisels first and now my saws. They are all 40 plus years old and kept in a damp garage/workshop along wiith my self made bench which will now be modified to include a tool tray. In these days of lockdown when I have "sorted" my garage ( i am both a DIYer and a classic car enthusiast so have both metal work and woodworking benches and too much?gear!! A question for you how can I tell with a rusty saw if I can resharpen it or whether has hardened tips?
Paul, one question I have is about the pressure you're maintaining with the file. You did note that you're filing the back of the tooth (which automatically gets the front of the adjacent tooth), but are you consciously keeping more pressure with the file against that back tooth? Or perhaps more pressure on the bottom of the gullet? Or are you trying to glide the file through with equal pressure on all three directions? Though the distinction may be subtle, I would think one's mental concentration would make a difference in the outcome.
Just a quick tip. If you pull the file towards you while on steel it damages the file by by bending down the cutting edge. Only use a file in the forward position and then lift and repeat and your file will last more than a day. Great video though.
I noticed a slight out of sinc sound with the film ( or my laptop ) and it looks as if the file is working backwards against the saw. Obviously that is the opposite of reality as Donald might say .Fake filing.
This is from Chilpancingo Mex. A grate video Sr. I thank you. If you can, teach us how we made reside the thee in this type of sow, please. Thanks a lot again!!!!
Thank you for a very informative video! I can proficiently sharpen a rip saw and have always struggled with the crosscut. Every time I try to file CC it’s like I am filing a tooth away with the angled file. Tried using less fleam angle smaller files with no luck. Not sure if the above explanation makes sense? But any help or suggestions will be much appreciated!
I inherited my Dad's 7 point crosscut saw. It is a Diston and I would very much like to keep it in usable condition. The grip is in need or work and the teeth, while sharp, are not even. My Dad used this saw for over 40 years and he always sharpened it himself. What can I or should I do to restore it and can I do anything about the grip?
This skill is becoming even more essential now. Finding a decent saw in a store is all but impossible these days. They all have stupidly long, dagger-like hardened teeth that make really nasty cuts.
Great video Paul, very informative yet relaxing. One question I have though: Why do you sharpen the back of the tooth, and not just the cutting face? It seems a bit counter-intuitive to me, would you mind explaining it?
+Dutchhorse I'm not Paul, but I think I can answer. Sharpening the front face of the teeth, the teeth would get thinner and thinner approaching the middle until teeth start snapping off. By sharpening the back edges, you're grinding the teeth down from the middle, and so you only lose width in the saw (height, if holding the saw edge-up) over the years, and the thickness towards the edge stays the same. In essence, you're sharpening the shorter edge of a chisel instead of the entire back face.
Hi Paul. I must admit to my lack of knowledge when it comes to saw sharpening and more so on the selection of the correct files. Having watched you excellent video's on saw maintenance I would like to sharpen my hand saws. Can you advise on the correct type and size files please. Richard Power.
Hi Richard. There are brands such as Bahco, Grobet, etc, who make excellent saw files. I’d make sure it has a handle so it’s comfortable to hold and then choose a saw file based on the amount of teeth per inch it has (TPI or PPI). For example, I have a Lie-Nielsen Tenon Saw with 11 PPI, so I’d need a saw file which can accommodate that amount of teeth (coincidentally, I’ve just bought a Bahco). Hope this helps and good luck.
Haha I loved that " you made a mistake just don't do it again" you sound like my highschool math teacher. If Someone did something wrong they would appolagize and he always said "i don't care if your sorry just don't do it again"
Dutchhorse :O haha, love your videos. I'm really impressed at how sharp you got your marking knives because of the awkward shape, you're great at sharpening and wood working in general.
So I recently came across a craftsman 20" miter saw and metal adjustable stand for it. After fiddling around with cleaning and oiling the moving parts I have begun to focus on the saw teeth. they are a mess. None of the teeth wwere level and not sharp at all. I have been watching and working on my rip saws but I have nothing set up as a crosscut. So if this saw is being used for mostly crosscut in the miter device I should be setting it up like this or as a rip? I had previously owned a Stanley plastic miter box with a smaller 14 backsaw style saw. The plastic miter box did not hold up in the weather. Second question... Should I make the 14" saw into a rip for tenon and dovetail work? As my shop evolves I am not sure what to do with things like the leftover blades. Thank you for your time.
Dear sir, I have a cross cut hand saw and in sentiments of keeping as inheritance from my grandpapa i would like to ask, How to repair a broken tooth midsaw as i want to keep this saw. Your guidance will be helpful sir Regds Percy
I hope that Paul answers your question. I'm not an expert, but I'd say depending on the size of the teeth and the blade, you might have to grind away all the teeth and cut a new set. Maybe you could weld in a new piece of steel, though
I thought the teeth it's had to be "pointed" or evened out with a flat file prior to sharpening with a triangular file. Is that only done on a rip configuration or not needed at all? Also do the teeth need to be reset with a saw set?
+Robert Plewnarz No. Generally we only top or joint (US) the saw teeth with a flat file IF they are uneven in height poorly sharpened in some other way and even then usually it's necessary only if they have dips and hollows that cause jarring in the cut. Topping is a radical step when a saw comes in in bad shape. We usually need to reset teeth every half dozen sharpenings because as we file the teeth down, we are effectively removing the set at the same time. Unfortunately in the world of misinformation we are led to believe that sharpening always begins with a flat file to joint the teeth but that's not generally the case.
+Paul Sellers Ah! Good to know. I've a couple of Disstons that were given to me and I've been watching a few videos before I go and get the right files, etc. Other people have recommended flattening as a matter of course. I'm glad it's only necessary when the teeth are in bad shape. Thanks!
I've seen a number of saws where the teeth appear to be heat treated in some way, I suspect they're hardened. Do these sharpen well or is the file likely to just skate over the teeth?
+Forth Sadler Hardpoint saws can't be sharpened really. You can touch them up with a diamond file if you really want but generally not worth the hassle, just buy a new one, they last much longer than a traditional saw anyway.
When the saw begins to bind in the cut usually this is indicative of the necessity for saw setting. This will depend on how often you use the saw and how much wear is taking place on the teeth so there is no measured distance between setting saws.
Been using a handsaw since the 40s We built barns houses wagons, green wood we gave the saw a heavier set than saws we used for dry wood. when a saw starts pinching, or leading it is usually due to set or dull side. A well set and sharpened will cut straight without steering. on dry wood we set saw then slid a stone down both sides to diminish tear.
tbh I always though that the difference on the blade was because one was for soft wood and the other for hard wood (Learned from my old carpenter dad LOL)
If they are all by Bahco, then they should all be the same quality. Bahco is a good brand by the way. If you are asking which file(s) you need to buy to sharpen your particular saw(s), then you need to know the TPI, or PPI for your saw(s) and buy the file that is designed for your saw(s). You can look it up online, but here are two resources that will give you a chart on which files will work. Blackburntools bit.ly/2vQKn7S And, Wood and Shop bit.ly/38LNTi8
I wanted to sharpen my saw and because of the poor lighting in my shed I ruined my saw. Instead of filing in the right way I did the opposite!!? How can I correct myterrible mistake? :(
Does the file size coincide with the number of teeth per lineal inch or are the teeth the same angle from saw to saw? I may have just answered my own question..
No, the file size does not correspond with the teeth per inch of saw length. Usually, the governing factor will be that the saw file face will be twice the height of the tooth at least.
I don't understand how not owning a crosscut saw is not a problem for furniture makers. What do they use for cutting across the grain when making tenons? Many joints require cutting across the grain and cutting wood to length requires cutting across the grain. Where I live (not uk or usa) I cannot obtain a crosscut saw anywhere in the country. My only option is to re-file a ripcut into a cross cut which is why I am watching this video. I find cutting across the grain with a rip cut do-able but messy.
TheCompleteGuitarist on the finer saws not a problem my tenon saws are all rip cut saws as the rip as much if not more that cross cutting. It's easier to sharpen rip saws hence the smaller saws being rip. Good luck finding a good cross cut
Hoping someone can give me some advice (without actually seeing what I'm doing). When I try to file one side, then the other, I always seem to end up with all the teeth on one side shorter than the other... Anyone else have this happen? Is there an adjustment I can make to prevent this from happening? Thanks in advance
The problem, which seems obvious now that I know it, is that I was pressing the file straight down instead of toward the tooth I was trying to grind. That little adjustment solved the problem.
Great video 👍 But Its my understanding that you file all the teeth slightly flat with a flat file before you start so all the teeth are the same height..perhaps thats with a very blunt saw 🤔
Paul, you are the best teacher, tutor, instructor, master...falling short of synonyms as English is not my first language. I have been pursuing woodworking as a hobby for over 30 years now, never went to any woodworking school, and learnt over eighty percent of what I know from your instructional videos. Before youtube it was a challenge to learn the skill solely by reading books. I wish I could actually become a student of yours to learn traditional woodworking. Kudos to you.
⁷þ⁵ĝÿ
Hello Paul. I have been a Carpenter& Joiner for almost 50 years I still have my original saws I first bought as an apprentice at Browns of Wilmslow Cheshire I have lived in Australia over 30 years now and still use my saws which have become apart of me. and I still love to sharpen them.
I have found your explanation video on saw sharpening and setting cross cuts and rip saws perhaps the best I have ever seen.
Although these days of buy/ use and throw away saws has almost become the norm in the trade I have to admit having a resharpen able saw in your tool box is a lovely thing, to have and to hold and to cherish it evokes lovely memories for me and its special. Power tools are fantastic and do have an important place these days regarding time and labour and all that but working buy hand in the workshop and on site is something very satisfying. I am very glad I had the opportunity to experience this and it is something that has never left me.
Thanks Paul for your smashing TH-cam videos
Kind Regards
Col Taylor
What a lovely comment.
I sold tools for 23 years, both in a builders merchant and as a tool rep for a hand tool whole sales to DIY shops and other places. I have learnt more in watching your videos in a couple of nights than I ever did in those 23 years. Thank you Paul, I used to consider myself an expert but no longer, as I feel I knew very little until you taught me the right way of doing things with & to tools.
The last user I replied to saying his comment was truly humble, for some reason started a TH-cam comment argument, weird. But this OP, that's a humble comment and is a perfect example of why I watch Paul's videos and read the comments. Usually so positive and uplifting. Cheers!
Paul Sellers is simply a genius for non-nonsense practical approaches to this craft. The very simple idea of a couple of 1x2s joined with a screw and washer, with the fleam angle penciled in at intervals along the length, is so perfect, but I never would have thought of it. Sharpening a cross cut saw seems intimidating, but with this demonstration I'm sure even I can pull it off.
These skills are a dying art. This is the best sharpening demonstration I've seen yet.
This might be the fourth time I have watched this video in the last year or so (Covid Time!). I have been looking for an old affordable handsaw to compliment my growing set of (wood specific) hand tools. I recently pulled the trigger on an eBay lot that granted me half a dozen saw plates and a decent handle that plays well with the group. They are dang near brand new (at about 65 years old). I am STOKED to shape the teeth and let them Chew! Your rip cut sharpening and “re-teething” videos have allowed me to cut my first dovetails with my grandfather’s, and your bench plane videos let me return his #5 to service and build my nephew and desk with a hand joined top. Mr. Sellers, I can’t say Thanks enough to express my gratitude and appreciation for the generous presentation of your hard earned experience. Thank you for helping my nephew attend Virtual school at a workspace We built together; learning side by side under your tutelage.
Cheers Mate!
-Christopher Castor
Update: I used this method last night directly following the previous post with incredible success. Thank you Paul and thank you to the production team for the priceless education.
The craft lives on through the passage of knowledge and the implementation of the practice.
-Castor
If anyone on the planet can make watching saw sharpening fun, it's Paul Sellers. Many thanks for taking the mystery out of this task. It's hard to imagine my dad used to drop his saws off for a "professional" sharpening.
quite uuuu
Your videos bring a rank amateur out of the darkness and into the light...I cant thank you enough.
Paul, I have been woodworking for 30 years and always sent my saws out. When I get back from my winter holiday, I am actually looking forward to sharpening my own saws. You have inspired me. Thanks very much for your teaching. I have an old backsaw that was given to me because it is in such bad shape. I am even going to try sharpening this one.
I find your videos not only educational but relaxing. No loud music, No flashing banners, no acting or asking for likes or subs, just getting on with it. What kind of file are you using and what size is it? The file I have wouldnt fit between the saw teeth.
Paul, with your demos; I was able to recreate the worn off teeth end of a small razor saw (4 1/2" blade) with small aluminum shims for clamping and a magnifying lens on a stand for soldering work. Amazing that it worked even though I could hardly see what was happening.
I had to use a small sheet metal angle bracket to keep the file from jumping and moving side to side; and kept the file vertical.
Paul, I just discovered your channel a couple of months ago. I'm amazed at your skill with hand tools. I have started making my own tools from your videos. Thank you for everything! Keep up the fantastic work and I will follow your videos for as long as you keep making them!
I've been doing this after watching your other saw sharpening videos, and I found it didn't require much precision to make a huge improvement to the saw. Just trying to imitate you gave really good results. I am pretty broke so my setup was a dull Stanley Sharptooth (hardened to be unable to be sharpened) and a super cheap ($2) triangle file. The file is destroyed by the time I sharpen the saw, but it works better than new. Safety glasses have had to be added because the overhardening of the teeth resulted in one tooth turning into a projectile, but the results have been awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you Mr. Sellers for an enjoyable and informative lesson on crosscut handsaw sharpening. My collection of useless saws now have a new lease on life and a place in my workshop.
As always, another great video. Not only did I learn proper technique for sharpening my saw, I also learned even the best craftsmen make mistakes! I love honesty in videos, thanks for leaving that part in. I always look forward to your next videos! Thank you, Sir, for sharing your experience and knowledge.
I appreciate you taking the necessary time to explain this. Once and done.
My rip saw cuts SO MUCH better after watching your video. I bough a vintage crosscut saw (or three, lol) to try next! Thank you so much for the great info!
I was wondering when you were going to put this out! thanks for the info!
Me too!
Thanks Paul! I have a Stanley cross cut saw, bought new about 25-30 years ago, that I have never liked. It just got worse as the years passed. It didn't cut well and always cut a beautiful curve, but never the same curve, haha! I removed the handle, reset the teeth with a punch, filed all the teeth. Many took several file strokes to get a full cut. I then sanded and refinished the handle. This is now my favorite saw, it never worked this good new! I really enjoy your videos as I am making the transition back to hand tools from power tools. Thank you!
Are you holding the saw with the index finger outside the handle? If not, that is part of the reason you cut curves. To illustrate, hold your saw out in front of you and sight down it as you would a gun. With all your fingers inside the handle, squeeze it and watch what happens. It will torque or deflect. Then hold your index finger outside the handle and squeeze. Might deflect, but not nearly as much.
@@michaelbarnes8709,
Badda bing? Badda boom!"
Another important lesson learnt from the Great teacher.
Thank you.
I am watching this because I have just refurbished my late Dad's saws (rip and cross cut) that are at least 70 years old. Unfortunately they had been allowed to go very rusty over the last 30 years or so, so I have cleaned them off as best I could but the steel is rather pitted. The handles now look fantastic though. The cross cut saw works fairly well as is, but I am now sure a quick sharpen as per this video will transform it. I recall last using this saw in the mid 1960s and to bring it back into service is incredibly meaningful to me. Thank you so much for this video
That looks a lot easier than I expected:) but definitely a meditative concentration exercise. Thanks Paul
“Feels nice and spiky.” 😂
God bless you, Paul.
😂
Thank you this has inspired me to re-sharpen my old Tyzac 22" as a rip saw and now it really cuts well! Used the progressive tooth rake as well, thanks again.
Thank you Paul. A simple, straight forward method anyone can follow. I feel confident to try this myself now.
Always such great videos. God bless you Paul. Thanks so much.
This bloke really knows his tuff .No fancy jigs .just solid know how.
I remember years ago 10 mins sharpening time they were a menace when hardpoints came along it revolutionised things mush sharper and as long as you dont lay them down on a hard surface last ages mine went in the bin couldnt sell them.
Many thanks for the tutorial Paul,nothing like a sharp tool to make a carpenter happy ,Cheers
Buen trabajo Maestro Paul excelente enseñanza gracias por compartir sus conocimientos saludes desde Managua Nicaragua
Nice very clear picture demo with information thanks .
"You made a mistake...don't do it again." That’s the style of teaching I’m used to.
Kiitos hyvästä videosta. On mahtavaa oppia teroittamaan sahanterä.
Very helpful tutorial, exspecially explaining how to file which tooth and the correct angle,i was tought to angle the file 15 deg back towards the handle 2 to 3 strokes of the file,some people have a triangular shaped handle to assist with keeping the file top flat, great video, Thanks.
I just love your videos, they are so clear and helpful and encouraged me to recondition my old tools, plane and chisels first and now my saws. They are all 40 plus years old and kept in a damp garage/workshop along wiith my self made bench which will now be modified to include a tool tray. In these days of lockdown when I have "sorted" my garage ( i am both a DIYer and a classic car enthusiast so have both metal work and woodworking benches and too much?gear!! A question for you how can I tell with a rusty saw if I can resharpen it or whether has hardened tips?
If it has hardened teeth, you will not be able to sharpen it with a file. (The saw teeth will be harder than the file.)
Thank you for the inspiration to finally getting a saw that I can sharpen myself.
Paul, one question I have is about the pressure you're maintaining with the file. You did note that you're filing the back of the tooth (which automatically gets the front of the adjacent tooth), but are you consciously keeping more pressure with the file against that back tooth? Or perhaps more pressure on the bottom of the gullet? Or are you trying to glide the file through with
equal pressure on all three directions? Though the distinction may be subtle, I would think one's mental concentration would make a difference in the outcome.
“Ahh...I lost my tooth”. This is the real thing here. Thanks Mr. Sellers
Thank you, first time sharpening a crosscut saw at least now I have the theory very clear, let's see the practice now hahaha
Excellent teaching skills Paul. Thank you.
Very good explanations,mr Paul,thanks !
Just a quick tip. If you pull the file towards you while on steel it damages the file by by bending down the cutting edge. Only use a file in the forward position and then lift and repeat and your file will last more than a day. Great video though.
I noticed a slight out of sinc sound with the film ( or my laptop ) and it looks as if the file is working backwards against the saw. Obviously that is the opposite of reality as Donald might say .Fake filing.
Awesome Tutorial, I'm happy I stumbled on your channel.
This is from Chilpancingo Mex.
A grate video Sr.
I thank you.
If you can, teach us how we made reside the thee in this type of sow, please.
Thanks a lot again!!!!
Salam sukses om tutorial ini bagus sekali ppenelasanya sangat mudah di pahami ,,,
Hi Paul. Information on the angles of the files would help me a great deal. Any chance that could be a short? Thanks
This makes me believe I can sharpen my old saws
Almost put me to sleep around the 8 minute mark. : -) I hope to be able to get a rhythm like that going while sharpening in the future.
Brilliant thank you Paul
Great very clearly presented.
This video was very helpful. Thanks for the instructions. Regards, Briz
Thank you for a very informative video!
I can proficiently sharpen a rip saw and have always struggled with the crosscut.
Every time I try to file CC it’s like I am filing a tooth away with the angled file. Tried using less fleam angle smaller files with no luck.
Not sure if the above explanation makes sense? But any help or suggestions will be much appreciated!
I inherited my Dad's 7 point crosscut saw. It is a Diston and I would very much like to keep it in usable condition. The grip is in need or work and the teeth, while sharp, are not even. My Dad used this saw for over 40 years and he always sharpened it himself. What can I or should I do to restore it and can I do anything about the grip?
This skill is becoming even more essential now. Finding a decent saw in a store is all but impossible these days. They all have stupidly long, dagger-like hardened teeth that make really nasty cuts.
How can you tell the difference between a crosscut and ripcut saw, when you suspect it might be so blunt the grind isn't visible?
This guy is a machine!
Great video Paul, very informative yet relaxing. One question I have though: Why do you sharpen the back of the tooth, and not just the cutting face? It seems a bit counter-intuitive to me, would you mind explaining it?
+Dutchhorse I'm not Paul, but I think I can answer. Sharpening the front face of the teeth, the teeth would get thinner and thinner approaching the middle until teeth start snapping off. By sharpening the back edges, you're grinding the teeth down from the middle, and so you only lose width in the saw (height, if holding the saw edge-up) over the years, and the thickness towards the edge stays the same. In essence, you're sharpening the shorter edge of a chisel instead of the entire back face.
Thank you Wesley, I appreciate it!
You cut on the back stroke too Right
Thanks for this, I have an old backsaw I bought in 1973 I need to sharpen and I just don't trust a lot of people on this.
Hi Paul, very informative video. How often would you need to correct the set on the teeth?
Hi Paul. I must admit to my lack of knowledge when it comes to saw sharpening and more so on the selection of the correct files. Having watched you excellent video's on saw maintenance I would like to sharpen my hand saws. Can you advise on the correct type and size files please. Richard Power.
Hi Richard. There are brands such as Bahco, Grobet, etc, who make excellent saw files. I’d make sure it has a handle so it’s comfortable to hold and then choose a saw file based on the amount of teeth per inch it has (TPI or PPI). For example, I have a Lie-Nielsen Tenon Saw with 11 PPI, so I’d need a saw file which can accommodate that amount of teeth (coincidentally, I’ve just bought a Bahco). Hope this helps and good luck.
Dear Paul, would you make a vertical cut with your hacksaw (like you shown previously)? TX again for sharing.
What file do you use for sharpening the saw?
Haha I loved that " you made a mistake just don't do it again" you sound like my highschool math teacher. If Someone did something wrong they would appolagize and he always said "i don't care if your sorry just don't do it again"
gracias por este valioso tutorial y gracias a quien haga posible las traducciones
Good job Master thank you
Great vid Paul! Which large crosscut and rip saws do you advise everyone have? Tooth size that is.
Thanks for tutorial ...
Crazy - Dutchhorse, Wranglerstar and Paul Sellers all made videos on sharpening saws within the same week. What a coincidence! O_O
+Roll Fizzlebeef Very Scary indeed!
Dutchhorse :O haha, love your videos. I'm really impressed at how sharp you got your marking knives because of the awkward shape, you're great at sharpening and wood working in general.
Thank you very much man, that's really nice :)
Dutchhorse no problem man, keep up the great work :D
Sir your letter always blocked me, learn a lot from you. God bless you 🙏🙏
So I recently came across a craftsman 20" miter saw and metal adjustable stand for it. After fiddling around with cleaning and oiling the moving parts I have begun to focus on the saw teeth. they are a mess. None of the teeth wwere level and not sharp at all. I have been watching and working on my rip saws but I have nothing set up as a crosscut. So if this saw is being used for mostly crosscut in the miter device I should be setting it up like this or as a rip?
I had previously owned a Stanley plastic miter box with a smaller 14 backsaw style saw. The plastic miter box did not hold up in the weather. Second question...
Should I make the 14" saw into a rip for tenon and dovetail work?
As my shop evolves I am not sure what to do with things like the leftover blades.
Thank you for your time.
I would set it up for a cross-cut because it’s a dedicated saw.
That saw should be set up for crosscut. It is also too large for dovetails anyway. I suppose you could do it but I would get a dedicated dovetail saw
just wondering what is the file that you are using.
Paul, what grade file is that? Trying to buy one, but I’m not sure how coarse or fine the file you’re using is. Thanks.
Dear sir,
I have a cross cut hand saw and in sentiments of keeping as inheritance from my grandpapa i would like to ask,
How to repair a broken tooth midsaw as i want to keep this saw.
Your guidance will be helpful sir
Regds
Percy
I hope that Paul answers your question. I'm not an expert, but I'd say depending on the size of the teeth and the blade, you might have to grind away all the teeth and cut a new set. Maybe you could weld in a new piece of steel, though
Got the motivation to sharpen my hand saws now, instead of buying new ones. What Bahco file do you recommend for a standard/Bahco carpenters handsaw?
As far as I know, any modern day Bahco handsaw will have hardened teeth which means they cannot be sharpened with a conventional file.
I thought the teeth it's had to be "pointed" or evened out with a flat file prior to sharpening with a triangular file. Is that only done on a rip configuration or not needed at all? Also do the teeth need to be reset with a saw set?
+Robert Plewnarz No. Generally we only top or joint (US) the saw teeth with a flat file IF they are uneven in height poorly sharpened in some other way and even then usually it's necessary only if they have dips and hollows that cause jarring in the cut. Topping is a radical step when a saw comes in in bad shape. We usually need to reset teeth every half dozen sharpenings because as we file the teeth down, we are effectively removing the set at the same time. Unfortunately in the world of misinformation we are led to believe that sharpening always begins with a flat file to joint the teeth but that's not generally the case.
+Paul Sellers Ah! Good to know. I've a couple of Disstons that were given to me and I've been watching a few videos before I go and get the right files, etc. Other people have recommended flattening as a matter of course. I'm glad it's only necessary when the teeth are in bad shape. Thanks!
+Paul Sellers Thanks for the information. This is going to save me a lot of time and effort.
Thanks for posting - very helpful. Looks like your file is dry; would putting a drop of oil on the file be detrimental?
Hi Randall. No, chalk works better but it doesn’t bother me.
Terimakasih mister paul ..
Thank you.
I've seen a number of saws where the teeth appear to be heat treated in some way, I suspect they're hardened. Do these sharpen well or is the file likely to just skate over the teeth?
+Forth Sadler Hardpoint saws can't be sharpened really. You can touch them up with a diamond file if you really want but generally not worth the hassle, just buy a new one, they last much longer than a traditional saw anyway.
Thank you so much!
Thanks just sharpened my saw
Regarding the set of the teeth, when and how often would you need to reset?
When the saw begins to bind in the cut usually this is indicative of the necessity for saw setting. This will depend on how often you use the saw and how much wear is taking place on the teeth so there is no measured distance between setting saws.
Been using a handsaw since the 40s We built barns houses wagons, green wood we gave the saw a heavier set than saws we used for dry wood. when a saw starts pinching, or leading it is usually due to set or dull side. A well set and sharpened will cut straight without steering. on dry wood we set saw then slid a stone down both sides to diminish tear.
tbh I always though that the difference on the blade was because one was for soft wood and the other for hard wood
(Learned from my old carpenter dad LOL)
Paul do you use a particular brand of file?
He mentioned in his other sharpening video for a rip saw, a Bahco saw file. Hope this helps.
Looking at Amazon for Bahco saw files there are at least 6 or more what is the best?
If they are all by Bahco, then they should all be the same quality. Bahco is a good brand by the way. If you are asking which file(s) you need to buy to sharpen your particular saw(s), then you need to know the TPI, or PPI for your saw(s) and buy the file that is designed for your saw(s). You can look it up online, but here are two resources that will give you a chart on which files will work. Blackburntools bit.ly/2vQKn7S And, Wood and Shop bit.ly/38LNTi8
I wanted to sharpen my saw and because of the poor lighting in my shed I ruined my saw. Instead of filing in the right way I did the opposite!!? How can I correct myterrible mistake? :(
good video.
Does the file size coincide with the number of teeth per lineal inch or are the teeth the same angle from saw to saw? I may have just answered my own question..
No, the file size does not correspond with the teeth per inch of saw length. Usually, the governing factor will be that the saw file face will be twice the height of the tooth at least.
Ok..thanks Paul.
Hi ,i looking for blade to wright blade saw model 100,where i find it
Awesome
After doing some research, the Bahco files have incredibly confusing product numbers and descriptions. Any help with that?
Me hubiera gustado que lo suban el vídeo en español
Thank you..!
What about topping and setting?
this guy is the jesus Christ of carpentry, I love it
Hate to break it to you, but Jesus was a carpenter. XD
hahahahaha....Paul is one of a few master teachers out there...
I completely agree. The man is a gift to mankind, one of the most inspiring people of all time.
Jesus Christ of carpentry was Jesus Christ of carpentry, but I get your point
emeğine sağlık. pratik bilgi için teşekkürler.
I don't understand how not owning a crosscut saw is not a problem for furniture makers. What do they use for cutting across the grain when making tenons? Many joints require cutting across the grain and cutting wood to length requires cutting across the grain.
Where I live (not uk or usa) I cannot obtain a crosscut saw anywhere in the country. My only option is to re-file a ripcut into a cross cut which is why I am watching this video.
I find cutting across the grain with a rip cut do-able but messy.
TheCompleteGuitarist on the finer saws not a problem my tenon saws are all rip cut saws as the rip as much if not more that cross cutting. It's easier to sharpen rip saws hence the smaller saws being rip. Good luck finding a good cross cut
Adam Lynch Thanks... it's true. I'm starting to get that. Just cannot buy a decent saw in my part of the world.
TheCompleteGuitarist where are you? These Spear and Jackson ones that paul has are cheap and are on eBay so could maybe get it posted?
Hoping someone can give me some advice (without actually seeing what I'm doing). When I try to file one side, then the other, I always seem to end up with all the teeth on one side shorter than the other...
Anyone else have this happen? Is there an adjustment I can make to prevent this from happening?
Thanks in advance
The problem, which seems obvious now that I know it, is that I was pressing the file straight down instead of toward the tooth I was trying to grind. That little adjustment solved the problem.
Great video 👍 But Its my understanding that you file all the teeth slightly flat with a flat file before you start so all the teeth are the same height..perhaps thats with a very blunt saw 🤔
What happened to cam clamps part 3?
Due out Friday this week.
+John Burkitt That was my thought too! I think I might have to make a set of those some time!
Exactly. They are great simple clamps. I use something similar without the cam. I use a wedge in its place.
+John Burkitt You can join the free side of his site and view it there. There is a lot of very useful videos on there.
+John Burkitt I prefer a cam to a wedge but there is something elegant about a wedge.