You didn't happen to see the filter basket while you were in there did you, because I was fixin to change my gear oil, and figured I would clean that while I had the oil out of it. That's where I read it was located at, and that there's a couple safety wires that hold it in place. There's no telling how long it's been since it's been cleaned if ever, but I replaced the boots shifter levers. As old and busted up as they were, everytime it rained I know water has to be getting in through the lever openings. I put a 5 gallon bucket over them myself, but I doubt the previous owners did. Figured I'd clean that out, and run a few gallons of diesel through it to see if any sludge comes out, and clean filter basket again before I put in 8 gallons of new gear oil. Can't hurt, and may make lift work better. If my luck holds true, could very well be last time it works without significant amount of money, and labor fixin everything that the crap I might break loose in there messes up for me. Either way I feel it's probably past due for a good change of oil, and the filter basket has probably never been cleaned be my guess, are it was so long ago that it needs to be done.
You know, I didn't even think to look. You might check out Bundy Bears Shed too. He completely went through one of these. I'm sure a good flush will help freshen up the gearbox.
@@bugoutjeep8065 I've watched his channel for sometime now, I'd guess going on nearly three years. I'll have to go back through the videos on the 135's and see if maybe that's where I saw that at. Might of been the young lady, and her dad's channel I saw it, but I'm thinking that I read it somewhere. I've looked through the cheap manual I've got, but it's not very in depth on anything really. I'm also searching for a good quality shop manual that doesn't cost 40 or 50 dollars that used, I know there's got to be some out there, but I've yet to cross paths with one. Thanks for the reply, and hope the old gurl is holding up for you. I'm also fixin to convert over to electronic ignition too, got to be better through out the rpms at holding better spark than points and condenser are. Have a Great Day stay well
@@timothymilam732 I think electronic ignition would really help. I don't think we ended up with a great manual, but I tend to get by between reading it, the internet and a local tractor store. Also we found a MF 230 that wasn't running for cheap and got it running this summer so now I've got time to research repairs when break downs occur.
This is a nice video. You did a great job filming and editing. I think I just had the same thing happen to my 275. I wanted to watch Bundy Bears Shed also but could not find the video. Do you know what was the name of the video?
Thanks. I'm often not fond of doing repairs in the field, but I figured this was common enough that most MF owners could use it. Below is the video that Bundy Bears Shed has with a split MF 135. It might not be the exact video, but I think this is the one he is able to show you in great detail where everything is. th-cam.com/video/pAszPkJ-fEo/w-d-xo.html
I didn't use a special cotter pin, but I couldn't find it off the shelf at big box store hardware areas. I found one locally in a cotter pin kit for some equipment at rural king. My shear tube sheared because I was discing and because I don't have a diff lock, I was braking the spinning wheel hard and it popped. It's also a several decades old tractor and I'm sure I'm not the only one to hit the brakes to get a bit more traction.
@@bugoutjeep8065 thanks man appreciate that! I'll go at mine over the holidays and yes I do that do. Lucky it's a shear tube I guess it safes any damage being done. They are great little tractors
Hello mate g'day from down Under I've had the same trouble and thanks to you after I took the steering wheel and steering box off to check the selectors while I put it back together I saw your video and I've got the same problem so......I Might not be the sharpest tool in the shed but does the split pin just go in at the end of the shaft because there is no hole through the shaft to put the split pin Can you let me know mate please thank you ASAP Cheers 15:18
@@ringerdiggsycobbsy6254 yes the idea of the cotter pin is to not let the coupling slide up the upper shaft leaving you without any rear wheel drive. Be sure to push the pin right down to the head and fully turn the 2 ends in tight otherwise they will get caught on the quadrant levers and shear the pin.
Yes, the tube had sheared, so I had to order a new tube and after a lot of local searching found the cotter pin. In an emergency, you could probably get by tack welding the old tube, but I had plenty of time to wait to get one delivered.
I don't think it necessarily felt loose, but it was really easy to get everything to get in and out of gears and I think the PTO would engage and disengage, which we had trouble with on that tractor, but just figured the PTO clutch was bad. Btw check out Bundy Bears Shed if you haven't. He split one of these tractors and it helped me understand where everything was at. I would post a link for his channel, but I don't know how. th-cam.com/channels/V7jOffH_nDSiWd8Qsfbrqg.html Maybe that will work. Check out his 135 stuff and he may have some other similar stuff. He seems like an expert and his channel has helped me with a couple of issues I've had.
You didn't happen to see the filter basket while you were in there did you, because I was fixin to change my gear oil, and figured I would clean that while I had the oil out of it.
That's where I read it was located at, and that there's a couple safety wires that hold it in place.
There's no telling how long it's been since it's been cleaned if ever, but I replaced the boots shifter levers.
As old and busted up as they were, everytime it rained I know water has to be getting in through the lever openings.
I put a 5 gallon bucket over them myself, but I doubt the previous owners did.
Figured I'd clean that out, and run a few gallons of diesel through it to see if any sludge comes out, and clean filter basket again before I put in 8 gallons of new gear oil.
Can't hurt, and may make lift work better.
If my luck holds true, could very well be last time it works without significant amount of money, and labor fixin everything that the crap I might break loose in there messes up for me.
Either way I feel it's probably past due for a good change of oil, and the filter basket has probably never been cleaned be my guess, are it was so long ago that it needs to be done.
You know, I didn't even think to look. You might check out Bundy Bears Shed too. He completely went through one of these.
I'm sure a good flush will help freshen up the gearbox.
@@bugoutjeep8065 I've watched his channel for sometime now, I'd guess going on nearly three years.
I'll have to go back through the videos on the 135's and see if maybe that's where I saw that at.
Might of been the young lady, and her dad's channel I saw it, but I'm thinking that I read it somewhere.
I've looked through the cheap manual I've got, but it's not very in depth on anything really.
I'm also searching for a good quality shop manual that doesn't cost 40 or 50 dollars that used, I know there's got to be some out there, but I've yet to cross paths with one.
Thanks for the reply, and hope the old gurl is holding up for you.
I'm also fixin to convert over to electronic ignition too, got to be better through out the rpms at holding better spark than points and condenser are.
Have a Great Day stay well
@@timothymilam732 I think electronic ignition would really help. I don't think we ended up with a great manual, but I tend to get by between reading it, the internet and a local tractor store.
Also we found a MF 230 that wasn't running for cheap and got it running this summer so now I've got time to research repairs when break downs occur.
Thanks Man hope u have a wonderful marry Christmas 🎄
No problem. Merry Christmas to you.
I wonder if I can get to the coupling from the side as well on a MF 240. Really helpful video, like you i don’t want to take the top off either..
You probably can. We've got a MF 230 and it's VERY similar to the 135. In any case, it's worth a peak. I bet they're using very similar transmissions.
@@bugoutjeep8065 thanks man, cheers!
what were the symptoms of it broke? i have a 265 that just clunks and doesn’t move when you release the clutch. hoping this is my issue
This is a nice video. You did a great job filming and editing. I think I just had the same thing happen to my 275. I wanted to watch Bundy Bears Shed also but could not find the video. Do you know what was the name of the video?
Thanks. I'm often not fond of doing repairs in the field, but I figured this was common enough that most MF owners could use it.
Below is the video that Bundy Bears Shed has with a split MF 135. It might not be the exact video, but I think this is the one he is able to show you in great detail where everything is.
th-cam.com/video/pAszPkJ-fEo/w-d-xo.html
😂😢
😮
😢😢
@@bugoutjeep8065😢😮😅😂😢😂😮
Was the cotter pin you replaced with just a standard one or a special tranny one? Thanks great vid have this problem atm. Wonder why they shear?
I didn't use a special cotter pin, but I couldn't find it off the shelf at big box store hardware areas. I found one locally in a cotter pin kit for some equipment at rural king.
My shear tube sheared because I was discing and because I don't have a diff lock, I was braking the spinning wheel hard and it popped. It's also a several decades old tractor and I'm sure I'm not the only one to hit the brakes to get a bit more traction.
@@bugoutjeep8065 thanks man appreciate that! I'll go at mine over the holidays and yes I do that do. Lucky it's a shear tube I guess it safes any damage being done. They are great little tractors
@@prime553 yeah and all the gearing looked brand new. Those gears and shafts are built very tough too.
Hello mate g'day from down Under I've had the same trouble and thanks to you after I took the steering wheel and steering box off to check the selectors while I put it back together I saw your video and I've got the same problem so......I Might not be the sharpest tool in the shed but does the split pin just go in at the end of the shaft because there is no hole through the shaft to put the split pin Can you let me know mate please thank you ASAP Cheers 15:18
@@ringerdiggsycobbsy6254 yes the idea of the cotter pin is to not let the coupling slide up the upper shaft leaving you without any rear wheel drive. Be sure to push the pin right down to the head and fully turn the 2 ends in tight otherwise they will get caught on the quadrant levers and shear the pin.
Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced?
I did not replace any gasket, but I can't remember if there was one there or not. I don't recall having a gasket there either.
@@bugoutjeep8065 Thanks. Great video.
@@sxrichardson Any time I can help, just let me know. Thanks
Hey man did u buy new parts or what ?
Yes, the tube had sheared, so I had to order a new tube and after a lot of local searching found the cotter pin.
In an emergency, you could probably get by tack welding the old tube, but I had plenty of time to wait to get one delivered.
Gotcha man thanks so much I’m glad u replied I got the same issue . Does yourgear leaver felt loose when that happen ?
I don't think it necessarily felt loose, but it was really easy to get everything to get in and out of gears and I think the PTO would engage and disengage, which we had trouble with on that tractor, but just figured the PTO clutch was bad.
Btw check out Bundy Bears Shed if you haven't. He split one of these tractors and it helped me understand where everything was at. I would post a link for his channel, but I don't know how.
th-cam.com/channels/V7jOffH_nDSiWd8Qsfbrqg.html
Maybe that will work. Check out his 135 stuff and he may have some other similar stuff. He seems like an expert and his channel has helped me with a couple of issues I've had.
Could u send me the part number from where u bought it from
Or where u actually got it from