Thanks for the doorcard instructions. My passenger side window was stuck all the way down. The rear clamp onto the glass had loosened resulting in the rear runner jamming on the rail because it wasn't angled correctly.
Thanks for this very helpful video. Gave me the confidence to refurbish the mechanism on my TF after the gearbox seized (you can hear a click from the motor but it doesn't move). Just to mention there are 2 bolts that fix the bottom of the mechanism to the door that need to be removed. It's also not a problem if the mechanism seizes when the window is down as you can still access the bolts that hold the mechanism onto the window Once taken out of the door the motor was held on the gearbox by 3 screws so easy to remove and test. The worm screw was caked with a mixture of rust and grease, tough to scrape but came off after using a very small wire brush on a drill. The gearbox was white plastic with a black insert that was only a press fit, easy to prize off after undoing the 3 screws that hold it onto the rest of the metal mechanism. Underneath the insert the circlip holding the gears in place was a pain to remove as it didn't have any holes for circlip pliers so had to be levered off and, as usual without circlip pliers, went ping. It now resides in the dust in some far corner of my workshop. So a piece of stainless steel wire bent to approx. the right shape became a replacement. Also be aware that the big gear comes in several pieces (I presume to allow some play in the mechanism) that will come apart as you take it off the shaft. Once disassembled easy to clean and regrease. Pop it all back together and enjoy your working window
Just a note: before doing all this, make sure the fault isn't simply with the switch. It's easy to pop out the center console part holding the window switches, and then you can simply swap the connectors of the left and right hand side windows.
Really helpful video, have similar problem with my TF passenger window, my motor runs for a while then stops? Gearbox also? No grinder so while try with a chisel. Tested if the same any as you, with mechanism removed.
Update, came off using Stanley knife and small flat screw driver, pings off with some leverage.Will now test with cover off and see what happens, would not have tried this without watching this video.
Thanks and well done for having a go. That’s half the battle done. It will be satisfying when you get it working which I am sure you will work out how to do.
@@comeinhandynow cleaned out packed with copper slip works a treat, all back and running. Thanks for your video, doubt I would have tried it. Sealed case with Gorrilla glue, old glue comes off easy
Hi thanks for the videos, i have a problem with the window stuck in the up position it will not go down, took the mechanism out tested it in the car and the motor us running in ine direction only, ( ie up) tried swapping switches over same result, then i took the motor inside and hooked it up to a battery and it works perfectly in both directions by switching polarity, any ideas?
That would imply that it is a problem with the switch. You need a multimeter to check the voltage coming from the switch and going to the motor. It should show the problem area.
@@comeinhandynowhi thanks for the reply, yes i thought it might be a problem with the switch so i swapped the switches over and get the same result, both switches raise and lower the passenger window but only raise the driver side, i was getting a voltage at the motor plug on the up function but no voltage on the down function, im a bit baffled
Suggestions: get Haynes workshop manual. Look up no.18 fuse and see what it powers. Check wiring to those parts, which sound like they may be inside door. If inside door, dismantle interior panel like in this video and check wiring for scuffs.
Thanks. The window alignment was unchanged as the window runners were left in place and the window was left up. It was just the connection between the motor mechanism and the window bottom that was undone.
can you by any chance put a vid on with a window alignment please as I have not come across this on youtube and would be really grateful if you could as I am in a pickle at present with my nearside door window alignment thank you in advance for any help you can give graham
Sorry but I've sold that mgtf since the video was recorded. It was a little while ago. It is often possible to find an original mg workshop manual in PDF format on the internet. If you can find one for your car that might help, as they tend to be quite good and detailed and may have a section on window reassembly.
Mmm, not impressed. The motor you "opened" and showed seized at 3mins 55secs was not the same one you removed from the window regulator. The one you showed "working" and refitted was the same, or same type, as originally removed. I don't mind being shown how to change good for faulty parts but draw the line at being led to believe you un-seized it.
I can assure you that IT IS the same motor. Only one job was shown here, one motor, one regulator, one car. It WAS unseized and fixed, not just replaced. Maybe it’s confusing as it looks different when detached or turned over. Let me know which other scene you think doesn’t match the 3:55 one and I’ll try and tell you why they are the same, which I can assure you they are. Maybe watch the video again, or try this job and see how it goes if it’s a problem on your car.
Brilliant. Thank you. I have this problem on my MGTF and my Freelander
Cheers. Hope you fix them.
Thanks for the doorcard instructions. My passenger side window was stuck all the way down. The rear clamp onto the glass had loosened resulting in the rear runner jamming on the rail because it wasn't angled correctly.
Was this a faf about to sort as mine is stuck in the down position and won’t move up .
Thanks for this very helpful video.
Gave me the confidence to refurbish the mechanism on my TF after the gearbox seized (you can hear a click from the motor but it doesn't move).
Just to mention there are 2 bolts that fix the bottom of the mechanism to the door that need to be removed. It's also not a problem if the mechanism seizes when the window is down as you can still access the bolts that hold the mechanism onto the window
Once taken out of the door the motor was held on the gearbox by 3 screws so easy to remove and test. The worm screw was caked with a mixture of rust and grease, tough to scrape but came off after using a very small wire brush on a drill.
The gearbox was white plastic with a black insert that was only a press fit, easy to prize off after undoing the 3 screws that hold it onto the rest of the metal mechanism. Underneath the insert the circlip holding the gears in place was a pain to remove as it didn't have any holes for circlip pliers so had to be levered off and, as usual without circlip pliers, went ping. It now resides in the dust in some far corner of my workshop. So a piece of stainless steel wire bent to approx. the right shape became a replacement.
Also be aware that the big gear comes in several pieces (I presume to allow some play in the mechanism) that will come apart as you take it off the shaft.
Once disassembled easy to clean and regrease.
Pop it all back together and enjoy your working window
Well done and thanks for all your inputs.
Really helpful video: thanks! I thought it would be a hard job, but you made it seem easy!
Thanks.
Just a note: before doing all this, make sure the fault isn't simply with the switch.
It's easy to pop out the center console part holding the window switches, and then you can simply swap the connectors of the left and right hand side windows.
Thanks for the input. Good idea to check.
Really helpful video, have similar problem with my TF passenger window, my motor runs for a while then stops? Gearbox also? No grinder so while try with a chisel. Tested if the same any as you, with mechanism removed.
Update, came off using Stanley knife and small flat screw driver, pings off with some leverage.Will now test with cover off and see what happens, would not have tried this without watching this video.
Thanks and well done for having a go. That’s half the battle done. It will be satisfying when you get it working which I am sure you will work out how to do.
@@comeinhandynow cleaned out packed with copper slip works a treat, all back and running. Thanks for your video, doubt I would have tried it. Sealed case with Gorrilla glue, old glue comes off easy
great video to follow , just done mine and it's working again, thanks .
Good to hear, thanks for the feedback.
Hi thanks for the videos, i have a problem with the window stuck in the up position it will not go down, took the mechanism out tested it in the car and the motor us running in ine direction only, ( ie up) tried swapping switches over same result, then i took the motor inside and hooked it up to a battery and it works perfectly in both directions by switching polarity, any ideas?
That would imply that it is a problem with the switch. You need a multimeter to check the voltage coming from the switch and going to the motor. It should show the problem area.
@@comeinhandynowhi thanks for the reply, yes i thought it might be a problem with the switch so i swapped the switches over and get the same result, both switches raise and lower the passenger window but only raise the driver side, i was getting a voltage at the motor plug on the up function but no voltage on the down function, im a bit baffled
Will this be the same on a mg zr?
It may be, but you won't know until you start to look at the door and your exact fault. Sorry I couldn't be more specific.
My fuse number 18 keeps blowing when shutting drivers side door she is a 96 mgf
Suggestions: get Haynes workshop manual. Look up no.18 fuse and see what it powers. Check wiring to those parts, which sound like they may be inside door. If inside door, dismantle interior panel like in this video and check wiring for scuffs.
why did you not show us how to align the window after fitting good video otherwise
Thanks. The window alignment was unchanged as the window runners were left in place and the window was left up. It was just the connection between the motor mechanism and the window bottom that was undone.
can you by any chance put a vid on with a window alignment please as I have not come across this on youtube and would be really grateful if you could as I am in a pickle at present with my nearside door window alignment thank you in advance for any help you can give graham
Sorry but I've sold that mgtf since the video was recorded. It was a little while ago.
It is often possible to find an original mg workshop manual in PDF format on the internet. If you can find one for your car that might help, as they tend to be quite good and detailed and may have a section on window reassembly.
do you know how to adjust the windows thank you
A quick internet search shows finds this:
forums.mg-rover.org/mgf-mgtf-sponsored-mgfntfbitz-12/how-adjust-door-window-seals-342852/
Mmm, not impressed. The motor you "opened" and showed seized at 3mins 55secs was not the same one you removed from the window regulator. The one you showed "working" and refitted was the same, or same type, as originally removed. I don't mind being shown how to change good for faulty parts but draw the line at being led to believe you un-seized it.
I can assure you that IT IS the same motor. Only one job was shown here, one motor, one regulator, one car. It WAS unseized and fixed, not just replaced. Maybe it’s confusing as it looks different when detached or turned over. Let me know which other scene you think doesn’t match the 3:55 one and I’ll try and tell you why they are the same, which I can assure you they are.
Maybe watch the video again, or try this job and see how it goes if it’s a problem on your car.