ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
BMW E46 DISA Valve/ Vacuum Leaks EXPLAINED
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2015
- This valve changes the air movement in the intake manifold. The DISA usually breaks and will need replacing at least once in the life-cycle of most e46 3 series. The DISA is a vacuum operated device that moves a flap to separate the intake manifold a certain way as to smoothen out power delivery across the rpm range but that is really just an assumption because everyone seems to have a different explanation of what it does.
Inexpensive DISA available on Amazon link below
amzn.to/2Dsia6V
![BMW E46 DISA VALVE - The WHAT, the HOW, and the WHY it WORKS & FAILS [2021]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7oJmcCoLG7M/mqdefault.jpg)
![BMW E46 DISA VALVE - The WHAT, the HOW, and the WHY it WORKS & FAILS [2021]](/img/tr.png)
![[UNCUT] เพื่อไทยดันอุ๊งอิ๊งนั่งนายกฯ หลังเศรษฐาถูกถอดถอน | คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ | 15 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SpprmDJ6QEE/mqdefault.jpg)
Sometimes the rubber diaphragms in the plunger section of the DISA valve get ripped if they are old and they can be repaired with gasket maker if you're in a bind and can't get a hold of a new DISA in time.
You just have to carefully pop the lid off the Diaphragm housing at the end of the plunger area and you can see a spring underneath with the rubber vacuum diaphragm attached to the plunger, release the plunger from the valve flap, pull it out and repair the rips in the rubber with gasket maker. Let it dry, then just put everything back together as you found it and seal up the cap housing that was removed, so there are no air leaks in it, you can use gasket maker to do this or kwik weld.
There are a few more spots on the entire DISA housing that can leak vacuum along the housing seems, just kwik weld or super glue along the seems if you feel any air leakage with the hole plugged with your finger.
I had to do this in a bind and the thing worked like a charm, my check engine light turned off and my engine ran flawlessly with it until I got the new DISA in.
That is like really in a pinch. Good idea, as for the reason the plastic diaphragm ripped probably has something to do with fatigue of the material like heating freezing cycles in winter. The rest of the diaphragm that did not rip will become a problem later as let us underline temporary.
I can't remove the lid to get to the rubber diaphragm and spring. I unlatched the sides brackets but the lid is not budging. Please help.
There are 4 clips around the circular cap that snap into place, you have to jimmy a small flat head screw driver between the housing and the cap to pop the clips out and push up on the cap housing as you do it, to release the clip from the housing around the cap.
Randall Wetmore thank you. I just did what you said but cracked a bit of the black housing. Will that cause a problem? My rubber membrane is completely shredded and top half is off. If I order and replace the membrane will it fix the vacuum pressure? Because the flap doesn't stay closed when I hold the hole as it should. Or do you think I should buy a whole new disa? Please help asap. My life is literally in your hands.
Just buy a whole new DISA valve for sure. In the mean time, you can use blue gasket maker or goop to glue the diaphragm back together and then seal up the black plastic housing with JB kwik weld where it got damaged. When you put the cap back on, don't forget to put the spring and everything back in the way it came out and make sure everything is sealed properly. Taking the DISA apart and fixing it, is the temp fix and you should always have another DISA on the way. Make sure to get a decent price and order through e-bay or online from a trusted seller. I paid about $60 for a new unit and my old DISA lasted me until the new one arrived.
I owe you a few beers. I almost ordered a new disa valve or repair kit, at the very least, and then I saw your video and decided to try it. I removed the disa valve in about ten minutes, checked to make sure that the vacuum diaphragm held vacuum (it did), then turned the key forward with the wires still hooked to the disa and the valve closed as it should . I removed the wires and then proceeded to clean all the nooks and crannies that pivot the valve, because you can tell that the valve was sticking. I also sprayed the tiny vacuum hole, in case that was clogged. When I was done the valve moved back and forth without "hanging up", as it did when i pulled it out. I put it all back together and it works great!! Thanks for posting this fix!!
Thats great, I am glad you found the video useful. I really have a good time working on the car and its just really interesting stuff. The emissions and intake control systems are so intricate I have learned a ton about the potential for systemic failures such as the DISA leading to fuel mixture errors, corroded O2 sensors, not to mention the rough idle. I took it upon myself to take care of this machine becuase who doesn't like the sound of a smooth downshift to 6k rpm. Cheers
The DISA is a little bit of a mystery part. .. But I know the answer. The DISA retunes the intake manifold in real time. the air is bouncing around all the time in the intake manifold. When an intake valve closes the inbound air is suddenly blocked. Because the air is in motion and can't stop instantly it compresses a little like a spring. Then that air begins to decompress. What BMW has in mind is to benefit the NEXT intake valve (that opens) by having the intake ducts tuned to utilize that decompression. Unfortunately the required duct length for higher speed is not the same required for lower speed. (DISA = Differentiated Intake System Actuator). So .. essentially it adjusts the path length of the ducts. I think its binary in nature. I know the box stores vacuum so its available when the engine is operating more open throttle, and the electric signal releases it.
Thank you man!
My M54 has been throwing codes. And it had 3 lean codes and 3 disa valve codes.
So I figured I’d clean it up and then replace as a last resort.
I’m glad to see cleaning it is an option. Thanks a lot!
I’ll share it with my mechanic so he can offer to repair the valve vs replacing it. Because I saw the price and wasn’t willing to buy a new one if it could be repaired.
The disa valve won't throw any codes, only if it's not sealing properly you'll have a vacuum leak causing the famous lean codes
What exactly was your car doing to make you remove the disa valve
Thanks for sharing. Plenty videos of there. I never saw anything about a spray.
M54
W8 w8 w8 w8 w8... Are you sure is should stay maximum at 20 degrees ? i need to know this
beso facacia If it goes more then the middle its not right. Mine goes slowly all the way back so Im gonna try cleaning it
Hi there! i have the same problem with my BMW 2003 325i its Disa valve. but when i took the parts off. mind doesn't do that. so just used.that pray and it will do like that?
thanks for the vid, my question is, my disa cannot hold the vacuum when i cover the air release hole. the flap just goes back to its original position. will this fix it?
Ryan C change the rubber membrane for the disa.
Its an expensive ... part. Thats what it is.
I bought one from the dealer and 5 years down the road it leaked during a smoke test yesterday. Im planning on putting a fresh O ring on it and test it again.
Hey anyone could help my disa valve idk if its messed up when I put my ear on it I hear like a rattle but I take it off and everything looks good also with engine running I disconnect the connection and nothing happens the pin from the disa valve is kinda looks but wassup with the connection? Advise should I get a new one got p0174
Hey there good afternoon. Can I ask you what codes you were getting ? I’m getting all kinds of misfire codes and a MAF sensor code. I went to check my DISA and noticed that as I’m doing this test, it has a slow leak because it will not STAY in the turned position. Instead it will slowly return to its normal position... do you think this would cause all of those codes ??
ya sounds like your DISA is on its way out, unfortunately a bad DISA unit and act like you have a bad MAF!! ask me how i know?? 3 things to remember before replacing this unit, either the DISA seal O-ring goes first and starts to let unmetered air in your intake manifold causing lean codes, random misfires, fuel cut cylinders 1 - xx etc etc, or the flap will ware or vacuum piston is starting going bad... when any of these symptoms start happening to your DISA valve that you have been able to rule out from all the other common causes...Do NOT rebuild it just REPLACE IT!!! Your car will thank you 1000x for it.
@@ZAKU-GD Thanks for you mr response. I no longer have this car but I remember having to change BOTH the DISA and the MAF Sensor . So you’re definitely right 🤷🏾♂️
thanks for the vid, I am really wondering how to determine if my DISA valve is active and functional properly or not? It seems I can't figure it out through the C310+ code reader/diagnostic ?
After preforming the test in the video... well... If you are referencing an actual functional test as in providing power to the unit and running a test sequence, I am not sure that exists. I have only done this kind of maintenance solo but you could just not reinstall the part, plug it in, and have someone else run the car through the rpm range. Although this will probably throw a bunch of other codes as the disa will not be installed. Do this at your own risk. Your could create a temporary plate with the holes drilled so it can cover the opening in the intake manifold as the disa is open during half of its operation. If the engine begins shaking off its mounts I would recommend shutting it down at that point but seriously this functional test could probably be run by bmws computers if you have access to them. I was looking into buying an ibm t80 and installing the factory diagnostic software but I got stuck because the interface was in german. best of luck.
A late response, but a very simple test is to mount your cellphone to tubes nearby using duct tape. Point the camera at the piston, so that you can capture it moving. Then shoot a video (with flash turned on) and do a test drive.
Can you use a Brake clean for cleaning this?
Change the O ring for it too is a good idea
does the disa valve make a car missfire?
There's a tiny hole just in front of the flap. That needs to be clear for the vacuum to work so it's possible you unclogged it when you sprayed the shit out of it ;)
In front of the flap where? toward the rubber diaphragm or the rectangularish box?
Yeah what the hell else could it have been? Lol. He just got lucky and unclogged something
Have a question when you turn on the car does it open automatically or is it when the vehicle is warmed up its open automatically it seems that my bowel or plunger it's not going in or out vehicle is running and when I turn it off it stays at the same place so this is bad correct
The position of the flap is related to the rpm and from what I remember at 3,000 rpm it changes position. If that position is open or closed I am not sure. I have never turned the car on without it in place.
I would caution using that fluid. I tried it and it broke the DISA in two ways. (1) It somehow stretched out the orange o-ring, and (2) it broke what vacuum was left in the DISA. Disa valve would slowly go back to normal where it should not move much at all. After cleaning, total vacuum loss.
The DISA was failing so I had one on order anyway, and figured I'd try this since nothing to lose.
Ya I would not consider this process preventative maintenance. It is last ditch effort before throwing it away. Sorry it didn't work for you. It is possible that the dirt that you dissolved when spraying was holding suction as something like a secondary seal and when you sprayed it away, the primary seal was to badly damaged.
People doing this please take note.
Can it be reclogged to regain vacuum?
don't use liquid gasket it will fall apart under motion j/b well would be a better choss
Fill holes with liquid gasket?!You mad bro?!Could be fun for your engine when they get loose.Just search for a "broken" disregarded valve and replace the valve.Or, just clean the "broken" valve, take it apart and reasemble it by glueing the yellow shaft into the flap with 2 component polyurethane glue, it will NEVER break, last a lifetime and only costs you a tube of glue (2 component URETHANE) and some time
That is one way to go. And yes I think I have been called mad once or twice. The logic behind the holes partly comes from my lack of knowledge in the mechanisms by which the air moves through the intake manifold. I had thought that if the flap was not opening all the way and would have to be replaced I should decrease the flow resistance by providing more openings for the air to pass through in the mean time. Less air would equal less power and honestly if I had to sacrifice a DISA for peak power thats what I have to do. The downside was rough idle due to increased back pressure from the cylinders. This valve is opened above 3k rpm during normal operation. This device is based on some pretty advanced fluid principals and his highly optimized for conditions from the cars computer. This is a great car to learn from and work with.
Cutting holes wasn’t a bad idea it probably saved his disa from completely failing. Best option when disa is not working and you can’t fix it is to just remove the flap and let the engine run lean if you plan to use it.
what symptoms did u have fir you to carry out this job ? thanks
I was trying to find the reason why the rpms would dip at idle. It always seemed to me like the car should be around 810 rpm at idle vs 610 which my car was and whenever I would go into neutral the rpms would dip way down like to 400 then recover back to 610. It just didn't have that precision feel about it. I always thought there was a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system. The problem I mentioned did get better over time after replacing many hoses, o-ring, boots, and gaskets.
Ross Piccinini brill thank you mime just idles higher slightly at lights etc then goes back down amd a bit rough on start up
From a diagnostic point of view, before going to ECS and ordering tons of parts you don't need, I can tell you that if your engine is running rough at startup your fuel system is running lean. The computer will only compensate so much at idle so the problem will probably not be found only using a scanner. Here is what I would suggest; 1. Clean your mass air flow sensor with appropriate cleaner, 2. Replace your air filter, 3. Clean idle control value, 4. Check for vacuum leaks in the intake system, 5. Inspect spark plugs for residue and re-gap plugs if needed, 6. Replace fuel filter. Checking for vacuum leaks is not exactly an easy process because there are so many places that can let in air after passing the mass air flow sensor. This would definitely cause a lean condition. The intake boot is probably cracked (cheap part), the disa value has an o ring, the throttle body has an o ring, there are 2 o rings for each fuel injector, oil filler cap has a seal. One issue that is hard to realize is if the valve cover gasket was replaced and not seated properly that would be letting air directly into that area and that area needs to be pressurized. The last thing that I will mention is the theory of piston ring sticking. The piston rings are supposed to sort of float in grooves in the piston and if they get stuck than the gap between the cylinder lining and piston rings gets out of tolerance which reduces compression. I went a little nuts with this theory and pulled all spark plugs out and poured in about 100ml of a specific chemical product that was said to dissolve any buildups around the piston rings. Turned engine over with plugs removed, let sit for an hour, then went for a long drive. Lots of white smoke is created by this process so the long drive was important to get the chemical out of the engine. Changed oil after that.
ah OK I've never had to do anything to.engine as of yet besides air filter obviously I've had oil and filter done in guessing it's near the air filter one video I seen it was under the air intake if that makes sense
what specific chemical product did you use? Seafoam? did it work?
Change the o ring on it