That screw that you did not know what it's function was.....it's the depth setting. If you want to make specific depth cuts (like in a dado) you can set that as a blade depth stop.
Holy crap, I've had this stand for a couple years and no idea the abuse, confusion, and torture I was putting myself through. Every day I would pick it up, fold the legs, place it in my truck, then hang it on a wall in my shop when I got home. Had I noticed the locking lever hanging below the frame a quarter inch, maybe I would have realized the years I was taking off my life. Possibly I was concentrating on getting some actual work done.
Everybody's a comedian. For my business I have a trailer and it bounces around on our awful NJ roads enough to toss tools and supplies all about inside. The locking lever would be snapped before I got to the jobsite. That's why I like that old steel Ryobi stand I've been using--it's been bouncing around my trailer for a decade and still works fine. Beyond that, the Dewalt design for the end supports is just too flimsy for my work. I need to be able to cut wet pressure treated framing lumber and then a delicate crown or trim moulding without having the supports move on me. If it works for you, terrific, but I've not found it useful.
The purpose of a review to explain all of the good features and all of the flaws no matter how minor so people can make an informed purchase. If you already own it, why are you watching this?
I'm a long time trim carpenter , this is the best saw I've found for extreme every day use. This guy still has the original blade, which looks to have little use. In other words , take his opinions with a grain of salt.
It was a new blade because it was a new saw. A review of a new saw. I own two sliding compounds, one for the shop one for the trailer. They actually get quite a bit of use.
As a finish carpenter you don't put down some MDF for a zero clearance base and fence anyways? It would solve your issues with the milled face and keep from spalling out your workpiece...
You can add a homemade fence if you like, but you'll be losing depth capacity. For the price we pay for these tools, should we really need to add homemade parts to make them right?
Thank you for your video. After watching this I opted for the rollaway stand... so much better! I also didn't like how the supports got scratched. The rolling stand has some minor annoyances, but mostly great! If you have the choice between the two... go for the rolling stand.
Watched your video and I love the thoroughness of it. Thank you. As for your knob that loosens the slide out extensions, I saw another review video and the guy just took the knobs off and rotated them 180 degrees around and reattached them.
Yeah, I thought I could do that too, but when I tried it only one side cleared. The other side the knob had an interference problem and wouldn't tighten all the way. Possibly there have been slight variations in manufacturing so that some of the units work this way and some don't.
I saw another video where the guy switched the position of the handles for the extenders so they were oriented differently. Seemed to offer more protection for the handles.
You may find your fears unfounded. Use the saw & stand first and see if your perceived problems are really problems. I had the first iteration of this stand and used it for over a decade with no issues. I do remove the stock support risers to transport the stand. No biggy. I remove the fence from my table saw and wind the blade down below the table surface, roll up cords & hoses, lock the miter saw into a transport position. Considering all that is involved in unloading and loading at the beginning and end of a day, the simple removal of the supports is nothing. A simple rack built on the sidewall of your trailer that allows the stand to rest upside down with the supports hanging off the ends would fix all your issues.
Honestly, I haven't touched the stand since I made this video. My old stand stays with me in the trailer since it just won't die and I also keep a different compound miter on the trailer. This sliding compound miter mostly stays in the shop, unless I need a backup or I have something unusual to cut at the jobsite.
You could shave the lever down somewhat and it wouldn't touch the floor while the stand is on the floor. Also, the wobble of the support could be fixed by putting a screw in the slot , cause it is set once and left alone. My two cents
Good review. I am not a professional carpenter but I do some rebuilding on older buildings. I have a well equipped shop and recently added the DW780 and I am delighted. I also have a Makita 10 inch slider, a 12 inch Craftsman chop miter saw and an 81/2 Elu slider. The Elu and Dewalt stay in the shop. I also bought the Dewalt 726 rolling miter saw stand and love it. The Makita sits on a stand identical to Johns old stand with wheels. If you get a chance John, try out the 726 rolling miter saw stand.
You know, I had intended to try and modify that Dewalt stand to improve it's handling, but I haven't gotten to it yet. In the meantime, that old heavy Ryobi stand is still bouncing around the back of my trailer as my primary saw stand.
This is still a very helpful review. I am a DIY guy, not a pro, so my usage is less. I have this saw and it is stationary in my shop. I also got the stand for free but did not need it and sold it at a discount. So the stand is not an issue for me, but I absolutely see what you mean. The handle used to lock the miter IS a real problem for me too. I keep running into it (or having to consciously avoid it). Did you ever find a method to get it out of the way?
You know, this saw also stays in my shop for the most part, I have another older DeWalt miter saw I keep on my trailer. I've become accustomed to the lock handle sticking out, but it is a bit of an awkward saw in that way. I'll take this on a jobsite if I need the extra capacity but otherwise I use it in the shop for woodworking tasks and I push it back on the counter far enough so that the lock handle is protected.
Thanks for the very detailed review on the saw. Ended up here because I’m thinking of buying this saw. Btw thanks also for pointing out the fence issue. You are the first person to point that out and I never would have noticed it. I do a lot of finish work too and that will definitely be a problem.
This saw has mostly stayed in my shop and I carry a lighter double-miter in my trailer. That rough fence has smoothed with age, but if you are going to be cutting stain-grade hardwood trim or whatever you could take a sanding block and just knock down some of the roughness on the fence.
Setting cuts in-between degree marks on the saw is not that difficult, although some saws may be more difficult than others. As long as the locking mechanism stays tight it's just a matter of trusting your eyes and making certain your saw is adjusted well. The accuracy can vary, of course, but you can get pretty close with practice.
If you don't have a compressor and an air gun around while your working I'd recommend a rechargeable battery one to blow the dust out of the mitre angle indicator
Both are quality brands. It comes down to your personal preference, how the tool feels in your hands, and how the features mesh with your work. I strongly recommend seeing the one you buy in person and trying the adjustments to understand how it feels in your own hands.
Wow, got something against Dewalt or what? Searching for things to complain about? The stand, you just flip those stops out of the way and set it on the supports and it's perfectly fine, a few scuffs but not one little dent/damage on mine after plenty of use. The light is useless? It works great for lining things up. The lever at the front and dust duct at the back are going to get smashed in your truck? Secure your shit so it's not sliding around loose. Seriously dude.
Actually, Dewalt tools predominate my collection so I have nothing against the brand other than I want to hold them to the professional standards they charge for. Homeowners and DIY folks may not be bothered by the minor things I'm pointing out, but pros like me who use these tools hard everyday expect better design. Part of the reason remodeling is so expensive these days is because pros go through tools so quickly. There used to be two tiers of tools available, a pro level and a consumer level. Today, there is only one tier and it amounts, frankly, to mostly consumer level quality with pro level prices. Typically I find that relatively minor design changes, such as the location or shape of hold downs/handles/triggers/etc. can make all the difference between a tool that is a joy to use versus one that is a hassle to use. Seriously dude.
That old Ryobi stand is heavy but it is bullet proof. I have the same saw and for the casting I took a piece of 1/2 pine and attached it to the fence through the holes in the fence. They are the same shape as the fance but go down to the table. You could bite the bullet and buy a Kapex Miter Saw.
+regopit44 Yes, I suppose an auxiliary fence made of wood could solve the problem of the milled surface. It would still annoy me to have to modify a brand new saw, though! I'm looking at the stand now to see what I can do to make it acceptable for use in the field.
Good review. I have the exact same Ryobi stand and I was thinking of selling it and getting the Dewalt stand. I think I’ll save the money and keep my Ryobi.
Great review, I want to hear the good and the bad. There are too many so called reviews that don't go over the negatives. Yours is honest as the day is long, keep it up. By the way Ridgid makes a nice folding stand, better than the Dewalt IMHO.
Ha! I guess I sounded more down than I meant to. The saw itself is still pretty good, I was just trying to point out things which could be improved. I think what does bother me most is that for the money we all pay for these tools the manufacturers could be doing better as far as design and durability. In any case, this saw is till in my shop today, so it couldn't be all bad!
You are moaning to much rathwr than thinking it through. If you don't like the fence on the new saw, why not swap it with the fence on the old saw? It looks like you can bolt it off/on. For that matter, why not put the new saw on the old stand by swapping the rails too? I have one of the Dewalt stands.I did pay for it several years ago and I'm very happy with it. Mine has knobs rather than levers to lock the sliding arms, so it can sit on the ground the right way up, but I always invert it, and the rest haven't got scratched up yet. I also don't have a problem with wobble on the rests. Adjust them to the right hight and do the bolts up tight. I haven't worked out what the cleat is for on the front of the stand. It just gets in the way.
+Mmmm Hhhh The fences are different between the two saws, and I'm repairing the old one anyway. I guess I'm whining because for $600 I expect better. As for the stand, I think the knobs you have would be superior. I plan on doing something along the same lines as a modification for mine. I also plan on a modification to add a handle on the top. I simply can't transport the stand with the rests facing down--it would be destroyed in short order. With our awful roads in the northeast and my trailer bouncing around behind me I often get to the jobsite with a pile of tools and materials on the floor even though I tie everything down. Hell, I'm happy if I get to the jobsite with two working kidneys with the roads we have around me!
Great point on the surface getting scratched. However I wouldn't do finish work with a stand of any sort. Also Plywood doesn't come with a handle, nor does any lumber. Windows normally do if heavy but in stating this, I believe Dewalt believes if you can move their heavy ass miter around, you should be able to pick up the damn stand however you need to. Thirdly, people d on't have to purchase this and especially when they don't like this so I wouldn't use the analogy of people spending good money on something they should get something good (if only this were true). You didn't get this stand for free, however you got a so called "special" and most likely got a different serial number then the miter that you thought you were getting. So in essence you probably paid around 150-200 for the stand when all said and done.
You lost me on one point--you don't do finish work with a stand of any sort? So, how do you support a workpiece, like a 16 foot piece of crown, at a jobsite?
Make a table. At first site on a job I know I will be at for a while, I setup a cut table, I personally love the stand and when I set it up I don't take it down until I need to move job sites with it. I can still lock up the chop saw if I feel I need to. However to answer your question: Build one, especially at a job site and its always a great Idea to make a designated space for the such. Even a flat work space and 4/4s on both sides if you are careful and feel like speed trumps being careful.
Oh, okay, so you have support in the form of a homemade table. My workflow doesn't allow that kind of approach. I do remodeling of baths, kitchens, etc., and built-ins and trim, etc. I need to be completely packed up at the end of a day to be out of the way of the homeowners and my tools all need to fit back in my trailer. I generally work alone, too, so speed and lightness in packing up are important. In my shop, though, I use a built-in bench for support and the saw sits in a depressed base.
Not gunna lie, I love your work. I see how handy you are and I know if you put your mind to something you will make it better like other great ones. This being said, from what I see every single day in "remodel" work. We get nitpicky and bitchy about the "shit" company's produce that should have a sense for "great" work. Dewalt makes great tools but more so on the consumer level, so that entails pleasing their number one market: people like me that prioritizes around remodel rough in to occasional fine detail finish, and homeowners that shop at home depot (which I love). I thought it would be great for this stand to have a easy to collapse mechanic with handles on each leg at the top to make for easy storing but you get what you pay for. Purpose of my comment in correlation to you is that if you don't like it, don't buy it. I bet you could make a stand (without welding) that would better suit your needs if you put in the effort. I would actually challenge you to do so to suit your needs.
Thanks for the kind words. To your point about the consumerization of Dewalt--I think all of the manufacturers are catering primarily to that market versus the pro market. There really isn't such thing as pro-level tools versus consumer tools anymore. So, yes, pros can complain that the quality is down but on the other hand the consumerization of the tools has also lowered prices. My portable tables saws last a year or two and then I throw them out and get a new one. The so-called high end tools like Festool and Fein, etc. I think are more overpriced than better built. I shop less on name and more on function, ergonomics and quailty. I own Dewalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Hitachi and even Ryobi. I shop for each type of tool to see what works best for me. The exception is the battery operated tools because you get locked in. I probably own $1000 in batteries at any one time, so I'm not eager to change brands!
John, you need a tripod or use it more... lol. I agree with your review of this tool. That locking lever should go to 90 degrees down so it is flush. Does Dewalt do any user testing before they market these tools? I have been looking at orbital sanders and see the Dewalt models have many negative comments about the dust collection... apparently the exhaust pipe does not fit a standard vacuum hose. Not my main concern when purchasing a sander, but seems like a simple fix and I just wonder why they don't improve that. I will probably purchase a Milwaukee variable speed sander. Anyway, I'm glad you received the stand for free, maybe the poor design is the reason they are giving these away with the purchase of a saw. Thanks for the video. Kevin
+krn14242 Sorry about that--I often do these videos on the fly so the lighting and steadiness suffer! I absolutely agree that Dewalt could not have done any testing, because any carpenter would have caught these basic things in a NY minute. It is maddening, though, when the correct design wouldn't cost them any more to do right.
I do appreciate a thorough review/criticism . In this case, though I understood your urgency, perhaps should have rented something to get you by until you find one that didn't warrant so much disdain. As for the stand I will give you triple what you paid for it! LOL.
Did I sound negative on the saw? I'm actually pretty happy with the saw itself, but the stand has been leaning up in a corner of my shop since I made this video! I may do something with it at some point, but I haven't needed to yet with my other stand still working.
Actually you were not very negative about the saw I regret Implying you were, but to me your opinion of the stand kind of over-shadowed the review of the saw.
I do get irritated with tool manufacturers. So often I think the designs are poorly thought out and seemingly ignorant of the way carpenters and others use the tools. Of course, you can't please everybody and some of it is about personal preference, but I see a lot of tools with thoughtless design. And, with the money I spend every year on this stuff I've got a lot to be irritated about!
Brilliant review i wish i had seen it before i bought this stand. i have just found all the same faults. Also the position of the extending lever means it cant be stood up on it's end either it wants to fall over. Another thing i found was the bolts that come for putting the saw on the brackest are meant to be put on so the sqaure coller is underneath in the bracket gap. But if you do that you have long bolt ends standing up for things to catch on AND if you do it this way you cant get the full range of angle to the left because the saw will hit the bolt and nut. I was scratching my head thinking i must have this wrong??? two seperate bags of bolts and the instructions are a waste of time. Did you ever mod the stand in any way?
You know, the damned thing is still sitting in the corner of my shop waiting for my attention! I put these sorts of things aside for quiet periods when work gets slow, but I just haven't had a moment in awhile.
Sir, I may have found a solution to your Slide Knobs getting in the way on your stand. Tighten your knob fully, Unscrew the bolt holding the knob on. Re-position the plastic knob so that it is pointing straight up. Screw the bolt back into the knob assembly. This will prevent the knob from being in the way when storing in the folded position. The knob should point toward you when in the loose position and point UP in the tight position, hope This Helps.
+05mcparker Thanks--I did try this already and it worked on one side but not the other. The knob hit the frame before it was tight on that side. I do plan on doing some modification on this stand to make it usable for me, including this knob issue. Stay tuned!
Well, that depends on what you're cutting, right? Some workpieces have multiple finish sides (such as in cabinet or furniture work) and sometimes the physical length or shape of a piece dictate how it must be placed in the saw. I really don't see the need for them anyway.
@@enduringcharm Do you place the mounts on the guide? I don't use mine as I ended up stripping the bolt. So I place the right side mount next to it. Plus it's more symmetrical that way.
Nice review, maybe a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum bolted to the fence with countersunk bolts would solve the rough fence issue. Thanks for pointing that out BTW. After this review I'm leaning towards the non-sliding 12" saw.
That roughness to the fence has not been a huge problem, but more of a minor annoyance. It poses no issue at all for cutting 2x lumber or whatever, and I'm just more careful about finished wood around it. I think it has worn a little smoother with use, as well.
The Bosch 12 inch axial glide comes in as my saw of choice, it seems to eliminate many of the past engineering developments that woodworkers have contended with for a long time, these tools are expensive so if accuracy is important save a while longer 🤔
+Dirk Gibbons I own a lot of Bosch tools and some of them are my absolute favorites. For this purchase, though, I didn't have much choice since I needed the saw the next day and I had to buy something off the shelf. I've since repaired my old saw, so now I have two!
I'm 98% sure those fences are crosshatched as a result of poor machining, and are not an intended feature to add grip. Very likely the power feed set too fast, and lack of a finishing pass.
Not hating but I don't care what your old saw did or didn't do. I was thinking about getting a 780 and though with your back ground would be a good video. .
I upgraded to the 10" version of this saw here in my home shop like 3 years ago from a Rigid 10" saw that was a piece of junk, if you were trying to do anything with any degree of accuracy. I am fairly happy with it still after all this time. The saw I use at work is a 10" version of your old saw. So I can say that lever on the front will drive you crazy at first because you are right you will catch it on everything and every time you walk by it you will snag yourself on it. I have learned to give the saw a wider berth while working with it so its not as bad for me now as when I first got it but I still snag it from time to time. I don't pack it up and move it as often as you probably do so I don't have to much issue with that and when I do, I pack other tools around it so its not an issue for me. One of my biggest complaints about Dewalt right now as a tool company, is they are trying to hard to be the next black and decker or craftsman or stanley and have their hands into everything and they are failing at it big time in my opinion. Dewalt makes some decent powertools they should stick to that. All these crap tools that other companies are making for them is just horrible, I am sure this is where this stand come from its someone else crap rebranded to dewalt. For someone like me I prefer Makita, Bosch, Dewalt in that order for powertool brands. For no reason other than there is just lil things Makita and Bosch do a little different than Dewalt that makes me like them more but Makita, and Bosch almost impossible for me to find locally unless I want to drive an hour to somewhere better than a Lowes or home Depot. So that makes me tend to buy Dewalt but makes me worry because how long till the powertool part of dewalt gets farmed out too and than all there products will be crap? LOL
+Mopardude I have the same difficulty getting my hands on a tool to actually look at it before I buy it. Retailers don't carry much stock anymore, and displays are often ten feet in the air! It's frustrating, especially when you're spending thousands of dollars every year on tools.
I wish I watch this video before buying the stand. Oh well, it's still in the box. I think I'm going to take it back and just use my ridgid gravity stand. Too bad, the dewalt stand is more compact and that's why I got it with the saw. I'll have to figure something out. You can unscrew the lock lever and flip it up a bit to get it off the floor.
I had intended to do some modifications to my stand to improve some of the drawbacks, but I just haven't gotten to it yet. That lock lever movement you suggested I did try, but it only worked on one side. The other side the lever couldn't actually lock after I tried moving it because it hit the stand. I think that lever can be modified to work though. I was actually thinking of sawing the saw stand down to make it a shorter for my trailer, as well as some other mods. Maybe I'll get to it this coming year.
enduringcharm sounds like an awful lot of work for a stand you don't like. I'd sell it and buy another Ryobi. My 10" Makita is sitting on the same Ryobi stand and works just fine. I'll probably get the Kobalt or another Ryobi after I take this one back.
A tool is just like a musical instrument ..Some can play classical; guitar on a Hannah Montana guitar and others can't a play a thing with a wall of Marshall stacks and a 7000.00 Paul Reed Smith guitar .. The tool is the scalpel in the hands of a surgeon .... You finds its idiosyncrasies and mentally dial them in .... Many inadequate carpenters .. blame the tools !! .. .. Let us go back a 100 years and we didn't have all the nifty tools we have today .. and the question is ... How did they fit their workmanship better than 99.99% of the carpenters today ?.. I think I have a right to say this .. 37 years .. Master Carpenter and my work has graced many magazines covers .. I use this saw .. and have identified it's quirks .. and played it like it was Stradivarius
IVORY123100 so true. I built my first miter-box when I was a boy. It worked wonderfully and was infinitely adjustable, super portable and incredibly durable. Oh and it was basically free.
I had a 10" Milwaukee 18v battery operated mitre saw and the tension pulling the saw blade down was too much and I also tried the Dewalt 60v mitre saw at the store and the tension was a lot too. If your doing those 2-3 fine cutiing the tension is a hassle. Don't care for that at all.
HI John,I've read/heard comments [elsewhere] on the wisdom of a 10" vs 12" miter saw (especially w/ a slider) for the hobbyist - mainly for interchangeability with a table saw, etc. ...I suppose size always matters with the professional but can you opine why a hobbyist might consider one size over the other (i.e., 10 vs. 12) when equipping a home shop? Enjoy your posts. Thanks ...--- Mark
+Mark Smith An awful lot depends on the size of the trim or other workpieces you'll be cutting. For me, the extra depth of the 12" chop cut on taller mouldings is essential. If you'll be doing only smaller mouldings or if you'll mostly be using the sliding crosscut capacity then the 10" might be fine. Of course, when I went to purchase this saw quickly, they only had 12" available in stock. I suspect the industry is going that way since bigger is always better to the American consumer! $600 is a lot of money for a saw, especially when these things only seem to last me a couple-few years anymore. Not much choice, though--I gotta have the tools to make the living.
One of the things that jumps right out at me about this saw, and I too own one, is the gap between the turntable and fence. If you look at this aspect, the table is not square to the fence on the horizontal plane. Get out your feeler gauges and check it out. I trying to return my saw as we speak. I've looked at 5 different 780 saws and they are all the same. Sucks, Dewalt used to be one of the good ones too.
Wait, I think you lost me--are you saying you have too large a gap between the table and the fence where they form a 90 degree corner? Or are you saying that the fence is not 90 degrees to the table?
enduringcharm compare the horizontal plane of the turntable as it relates to the rest of the saws table and fence. My table has a slightest slope to the left.
I see what you're getting at. In other words, if you put a straight edge across the entire table, you see a greater gap between the left side of the circular turntable and the straight edge versus the right side of the circular turntable and the straight edge, correct? I went out to check mine. In the four inch center of the turntable I have uniform gap to the straight edge. At the outer edge of the turntable I can make out a very subtle bias to the left. I didn't get out my feeler gauges or dial indicator, but the difference is no more than a thickness of paper. It hasn't been a problem for me, especially as I support the workpiece with either a bench in the shop or the stand in the field at the same level as the table. I DO wish the table itself on the saw was larger. My older double-miter has a larger surface which adds more stability. But, this issue you mention has not been a problem in accuracy for me. Maybe your copy of the saw has a more pronounced tilt.
It's times like this I wish TH-cam allowed the sharing of pictures! I think we're saying the same thing. In other words, I'm calling the main casting in which the fence slides the "entire table" and you're calling it the "material supports". So, if I put a straightedge over the whole shebang, the main casting and the turntable part that moves, I can detect an ever so slight space on the left outer edge of the turntable. The inside of that turntable is uniform left and right, though. Of course, you want a slight uniform gap for the turntable, otherwise when you turn to select or adjust an angle, you'd be moving the workpiece with it. In theory the main casting is supporting the workpiece so you can hold it in place, and you may need to adjust the angle by a degree or whatever, so the turntable moves freely under the workpiece. But, I agree, you want that gap to be uniform. And, I do wish the main casting provided a larger surface. So, maybe your copy of the saw is more off than mine. I've done some pretty detailed work on mine (like, in half degrees) and on fairly short work pieces of only six inches or so and I haven't been bothered by the gap. Does your saw measure extra gap on the left just on the outside edge of the turntable or is it that the entire turntable left to right is slanted left?
That does work for some people, but my particular copy the alignment just doesn't work out. This stand has actually been collecting dust in my shop since the video was made. I'm still using my old one!
This saw is the best on the market wither you like it or not Why did you buy it if you don’t like it I wouldn’t like to be your workmate listening to you moaning all day. You should listen to yourself 😡
Did you actually watch the video? I do like the saw and I still have it years later. But, that doesn't mean I shouldn't point out deficiencies where I see them. It's a review. That's what reviews are for. You might have been searching for a fan-club video, which is a different thing.
600 bucks ?? Here I germany it is around 800€ which is like 900 usd -___- (with the stand even more) But thanks for the stand review I prefer Building one myself then (I will use it stationary)
Does it? The saw itself has been pretty good since this review and other than those minor things about the fence I pointed out I've had no issues. The stand, however, has really not moved from the corner of the shop since I got it.
I must have come across more aggravated than I intended, because I don't hate the saw. I just want to hold manufacturers to a high standard when we all spend our hard earned money on these tools. The stand, however, is not my cup of tea. I don't think it's moved from it's hiding place in the shop since I bought it.
@@enduringcharm hey I'm with ya man I was mostly just joking. I bought one yesterday but didn't spring for the stand and after watching your video in glad I didn't. I'm gonna go with another brand of stand
I literally laughed out loud at your comment. This IS the review! I made the video, like so many others, so that other people can look it up and research before making their purchase. if you want fan-boy content, then go check out the manufacturer's website. I'm here to tell the truth about what I find, and that sometimes means complaining about poorly designed and over-priced tools so that others don't spend their money on garbage.
Yeah, most of the gripes with the stand seems to be with packing it up and moving it at the end of the day ... something a contractor like John needs to deal with every single day. I'm just a weekend DIY'er who likes how it stows away in a corner of my garage when I'm not working on weekend projects. I set it up Saturday morning and then I pack it away Sunday evening and then I move the car back into the garage. Done. So, it's only something I deal with once a week. If DeWalt was going after the weekend crowd, then they got it right. However, for pros like John, they do need to address the mobility issues and come up with a different "pro line" version for that segment of the market. After all, it's pros using DeWalt products out in the field which gets free product exposure to weekend warrior wannabes like me. :)
That screw that you did not know what it's function was.....it's the depth setting. If you want to make specific depth cuts (like in a dado) you can set that as a blade depth stop.
Good eye, thanks!
A piece of tape over the milling would do the trick.
Holy crap, I've had this stand for a couple years and no idea the abuse, confusion, and torture I was putting myself through. Every day I would pick it up, fold the legs, place it in my truck, then hang it on a wall in my shop when I got home. Had I noticed the locking lever hanging below the frame a quarter inch, maybe I would have realized the years I was taking off my life. Possibly I was concentrating on getting some actual work done.
Everybody's a comedian. For my business I have a trailer and it bounces around on our awful NJ roads enough to toss tools and supplies all about inside. The locking lever would be snapped before I got to the jobsite. That's why I like that old steel Ryobi stand I've been using--it's been bouncing around my trailer for a decade and still works fine. Beyond that, the Dewalt design for the end supports is just too flimsy for my work. I need to be able to cut wet pressure treated framing lumber and then a delicate crown or trim moulding without having the supports move on me. If it works for you, terrific, but I've not found it useful.
The purpose of a review to explain all of the good features and all of the flaws no matter how minor so people can make an informed purchase. If you already own it, why are you watching this?
I use one, i'm watching to learn what all of the different knobs do. lol
It doesn't matter what a video is about. There is always some dickhead that knows better than you, and they will tell you so.
I'm a long time trim carpenter , this is the best saw I've found for extreme every day use. This guy still has the original blade, which looks to have little use. In other words , take his opinions with a grain of salt.
It was a new blade because it was a new saw. A review of a new saw. I own two sliding compounds, one for the shop one for the trailer. They actually get quite a bit of use.
You can unbolt and rotate the locking lever on the stand 180 degrees so it doesn't hang down. Hope that helps.
That only worked on one side of mine, the other side just couldn't line up in a way that cleared the floor and allowed a full tightening.
As a finish carpenter you don't put down some MDF for a zero clearance base and fence anyways? It would solve your issues with the milled face and keep from spalling out your workpiece...
You can add a homemade fence if you like, but you'll be losing depth capacity. For the price we pay for these tools, should we really need to add homemade parts to make them right?
you could use countersunk flat head machine screws to affix a piece of plastic sheet on the fence face
Thank you for your video. After watching this I opted for the rollaway stand... so much better! I also didn't like how the supports got scratched. The rolling stand has some minor annoyances, but mostly great! If you have the choice between the two... go for the rolling stand.
Watched your video and I love the thoroughness of it. Thank you.
As for your knob that loosens the slide out extensions, I saw another review video and the guy just took the knobs off and rotated them 180 degrees around and reattached them.
Yeah, I thought I could do that too, but when I tried it only one side cleared. The other side the knob had an interference problem and wouldn't tighten all the way. Possibly there have been slight variations in manufacturing so that some of the units work this way and some don't.
I saw another video where the guy switched the position of the handles for the extenders so they were oriented differently. Seemed to offer more protection for the handles.
Yes, I tried that too, but on my copy of the stand I couldn't get the orientation right so that it would also tighten all the way.
You may find your fears unfounded. Use the saw & stand first and see if your perceived problems are really problems. I had the first iteration of this stand and used it for over a decade with no issues. I do remove the stock support risers to transport the stand. No biggy. I remove the fence from my table saw and wind the blade down below the table surface, roll up cords & hoses, lock the miter saw into a transport position. Considering all that is involved in unloading and loading at the beginning and end of a day, the simple removal of the supports is nothing.
A simple rack built on the sidewall of your trailer that allows the stand to rest upside down with the supports hanging off the ends would fix all your issues.
Honestly, I haven't touched the stand since I made this video. My old stand stays with me in the trailer since it just won't die and I also keep a different compound miter on the trailer. This sliding compound miter mostly stays in the shop, unless I need a backup or I have something unusual to cut at the jobsite.
You could shave the lever down somewhat and it wouldn't touch the floor while the stand is on the floor.
Also, the wobble of the support could be fixed by putting a screw in the slot , cause it is set once and left alone. My two cents
Dewalt Engineering Team should watch this video, I guess Dewalt did not do UAT before mess producing the stand. It's not designed to be portable.
I liked your honest review about the stand...
Good review. I am not a professional carpenter but I do some rebuilding on older buildings. I have a well equipped shop and recently added the DW780 and I am delighted. I also have a Makita 10 inch slider, a 12 inch Craftsman chop miter saw and an 81/2 Elu slider.
The Elu and Dewalt stay in the shop.
I also bought the Dewalt 726 rolling miter saw stand and love it. The Makita sits on a stand identical to Johns old stand with wheels.
If you get a chance John, try out the 726 rolling miter saw stand.
You know, I had intended to try and modify that Dewalt stand to improve it's handling, but I haven't gotten to it yet. In the meantime, that old heavy Ryobi stand is still bouncing around the back of my trailer as my primary saw stand.
This is still a very helpful review. I am a DIY guy, not a pro, so my usage is less.
I have this saw and it is stationary in my shop. I also got the stand for free but did not need it and sold it at a discount. So the stand is not an issue for me, but I absolutely see what you mean.
The handle used to lock the miter IS a real problem for me too. I keep running into it (or having to consciously avoid it).
Did you ever find a method to get it out of the way?
You know, this saw also stays in my shop for the most part, I have another older DeWalt miter saw I keep on my trailer. I've become accustomed to the lock handle sticking out, but it is a bit of an awkward saw in that way. I'll take this on a jobsite if I need the extra capacity but otherwise I use it in the shop for woodworking tasks and I push it back on the counter far enough so that the lock handle is protected.
Great review, the comparison to your previous miter was very informative!
Thanks for the very detailed review on the saw. Ended up here because I’m thinking of buying this saw. Btw thanks also for pointing out the fence issue. You are the first person to point that out and I never would have noticed it. I do a lot of finish work too and that will definitely be a problem.
This saw has mostly stayed in my shop and I carry a lighter double-miter in my trailer. That rough fence has smoothed with age, but if you are going to be cutting stain-grade hardwood trim or whatever you could take a sanding block and just knock down some of the roughness on the fence.
@@enduringcharm Got it. Thank you sir.
How the heck can you tell you're setting the cut for an 1/8 of a degree?
Setting cuts in-between degree marks on the saw is not that difficult, although some saws may be more difficult than others. As long as the locking mechanism stays tight it's just a matter of trusting your eyes and making certain your saw is adjusted well. The accuracy can vary, of course, but you can get pretty close with practice.
If you don't have a compressor and an air gun around while your working I'd recommend a rechargeable battery one to blow the dust out of the mitre angle indicator
Can you let me know the model of your old saw and that old ryobi stand.. Great in depth review!! cheers!
nvm dw706 ;)
Which is a better buy in your opinion the Makita LS1216L 12-Inch Dual Slide or the Dewalt 780?
Both are quality brands. It comes down to your personal preference, how the tool feels in your hands, and how the features mesh with your work. I strongly recommend seeing the one you buy in person and trying the adjustments to understand how it feels in your own hands.
Wow, got something against Dewalt or what? Searching for things to complain about? The stand, you just flip those stops out of the way and set it on the supports and it's perfectly fine, a few scuffs but not one little dent/damage on mine after plenty of use. The light is useless? It works great for lining things up. The lever at the front and dust duct at the back are going to get smashed in your truck? Secure your shit so it's not sliding around loose. Seriously dude.
Actually, Dewalt tools predominate my collection so I have nothing against the brand other than I want to hold them to the professional standards they charge for. Homeowners and DIY folks may not be bothered by the minor things I'm pointing out, but pros like me who use these tools hard everyday expect better design. Part of the reason remodeling is so expensive these days is because pros go through tools so quickly. There used to be two tiers of tools available, a pro level and a consumer level. Today, there is only one tier and it amounts, frankly, to mostly consumer level quality with pro level prices. Typically I find that relatively minor design changes, such as the location or shape of hold downs/handles/triggers/etc. can make all the difference between a tool that is a joy to use versus one that is a hassle to use. Seriously dude.
That old Ryobi stand is heavy but it is bullet proof. I have the same saw and for the casting I took a piece of 1/2 pine and attached it to the fence through the holes in the fence. They are the same shape as the fance but go down to the table. You could bite the bullet and buy a Kapex Miter Saw.
+regopit44 Yes, I suppose an auxiliary fence made of wood could solve the problem of the milled surface. It would still annoy me to have to modify a brand new saw, though! I'm looking at the stand now to see what I can do to make it acceptable for use in the field.
Good review. I have the exact same Ryobi stand and I was thinking of selling it and getting the Dewalt stand. I think I’ll save the money and keep my Ryobi.
I'm still using the old Ryobi and the DeWalt is still in a corner of my shop!
Great review, I want to hear the good and the bad. There are too many so called reviews that don't go over the negatives. Yours is honest as the day is long, keep it up. By the way Ridgid makes a nice folding stand, better than the Dewalt IMHO.
How do you really feel about the stand? 😎
Great review 👍
Sheesh! Was there anything you liked about the saw?
Ha! I guess I sounded more down than I meant to. The saw itself is still pretty good, I was just trying to point out things which could be improved. I think what does bother me most is that for the money we all pay for these tools the manufacturers could be doing better as far as design and durability. In any case, this saw is till in my shop today, so it couldn't be all bad!
You are moaning to much rathwr than thinking it through. If you don't like the fence on the new saw, why not swap it with the fence on the old saw? It looks like you can bolt it off/on. For that matter, why not put the new saw on the old stand by swapping the rails too?
I have one of the Dewalt stands.I did pay for it several years ago and I'm very happy with it. Mine has knobs rather than levers to lock the sliding arms, so it can sit on the ground the right way up, but I always invert it, and the rest haven't got scratched up yet. I also don't have a problem with wobble on the rests. Adjust them to the right hight and do the bolts up tight. I haven't worked out what the cleat is for on the front of the stand. It just gets in the way.
+Mmmm Hhhh The fences are different between the two saws, and I'm repairing the old one anyway. I guess I'm whining because for $600 I expect better. As for the stand, I think the knobs you have would be superior. I plan on doing something along the same lines as a modification for mine. I also plan on a modification to add a handle on the top. I simply can't transport the stand with the rests facing down--it would be destroyed in short order. With our awful roads in the northeast and my trailer bouncing around behind me I often get to the jobsite with a pile of tools and materials on the floor even though I tie everything down. Hell, I'm happy if I get to the jobsite with two working kidneys with the roads we have around me!
this guy sounds like Joe Pesci lol
Wow I was saying the same thing. Lol
Me Too!
Great point on the surface getting scratched. However I wouldn't do finish work with a stand of any sort. Also Plywood doesn't come with a handle, nor does any lumber. Windows normally do if heavy but in stating this, I believe Dewalt believes if you can move their heavy ass miter around, you should be able to pick up the damn stand however you need to. Thirdly, people d on't have to purchase this and especially when they don't like this so I wouldn't use the analogy of people spending good money on something they should get something good (if only this were true). You didn't get this stand for free, however you got a so called "special" and most likely got a different serial number then the miter that you thought you were getting. So in essence you probably paid around 150-200 for the stand when all said and done.
You lost me on one point--you don't do finish work with a stand of any sort? So, how do you support a workpiece, like a 16 foot piece of crown, at a jobsite?
Make a table. At first site on a job I know I will be at for a while, I setup a cut table, I personally love the stand and when I set it up I don't take it down until I need to move job sites with it. I can still lock up the chop saw if I feel I need to. However to answer your question: Build one, especially at a job site and its always a great Idea to make a designated space for the such. Even a flat work space and 4/4s on both sides if you are careful and feel like speed trumps being careful.
Oh, okay, so you have support in the form of a homemade table. My workflow doesn't allow that kind of approach. I do remodeling of baths, kitchens, etc., and built-ins and trim, etc. I need to be completely packed up at the end of a day to be out of the way of the homeowners and my tools all need to fit back in my trailer. I generally work alone, too, so speed and lightness in packing up are important. In my shop, though, I use a built-in bench for support and the saw sits in a depressed base.
Not gunna lie, I love your work. I see how handy you are and I know if you put your mind to something you will make it better like other great ones. This being said, from what I see every single day in "remodel" work. We get nitpicky and bitchy about the "shit" company's produce that should have a sense for "great" work. Dewalt makes great tools but more so on the consumer level, so that entails pleasing their number one market: people like me that prioritizes around remodel rough in to occasional fine detail finish, and homeowners that shop at home depot (which I love). I thought it would be great for this stand to have a easy to collapse mechanic with handles on each leg at the top to make for easy storing but you get what you pay for. Purpose of my comment in correlation to you is that if you don't like it, don't buy it. I bet you could make a stand (without welding) that would better suit your needs if you put in the effort. I would actually challenge you to do so to suit your needs.
Thanks for the kind words. To your point about the consumerization of Dewalt--I think all of the manufacturers are catering primarily to that market versus the pro market. There really isn't such thing as pro-level tools versus consumer tools anymore. So, yes, pros can complain that the quality is down but on the other hand the consumerization of the tools has also lowered prices. My portable tables saws last a year or two and then I throw them out and get a new one. The so-called high end tools like Festool and Fein, etc. I think are more overpriced than better built. I shop less on name and more on function, ergonomics and quailty. I own Dewalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Hitachi and even Ryobi. I shop for each type of tool to see what works best for me. The exception is the battery operated tools because you get locked in. I probably own $1000 in batteries at any one time, so I'm not eager to change brands!
Thank you very much for putting together a great video on this saw and stand.
Dewalt should pay you for this NICE/open-minded review, and design poeple must learn, A LOT.
It's not free. It's the bait to get someone unwilling to pay $660 for a saw now will.
by the way I like honest reviews like this using honest words instead paid to sugar coat it undermining consumer choice
hey bro l have a question for u
let me know what's different between DWS 779 -DWS780 could you explain me
The 780 is lighter and has a cut line marker. Other than that, they are about the same.
You can reposition the locking handles so they dont extend below when stowed.
Unfortunately that only works with some units and it depends on slight manufacturing differences, I guess. It did not work with my stand.
John, you need a tripod or use it more... lol. I agree with your review of this tool. That locking lever should go to 90 degrees down so it is flush. Does Dewalt do any user testing before they market these tools? I have been looking at orbital sanders and see the Dewalt models have many negative comments about the dust collection... apparently the exhaust pipe does not fit a standard vacuum hose. Not my main concern when purchasing a sander, but seems like a simple fix and I just wonder why they don't improve that. I will probably purchase a Milwaukee variable speed sander. Anyway, I'm glad you received the stand for free, maybe the poor design is the reason they are giving these away with the purchase of a saw. Thanks for the video. Kevin
+krn14242 Sorry about that--I often do these videos on the fly so the lighting and steadiness suffer! I absolutely agree that Dewalt could not have done any testing, because any carpenter would have caught these basic things in a NY minute. It is maddening, though, when the correct design wouldn't cost them any more to do right.
I do appreciate a thorough review/criticism . In this case, though I understood your urgency, perhaps should have rented something to get you by until you find one that didn't warrant so much disdain. As for the stand I will give you triple what you paid for it! LOL.
Did I sound negative on the saw? I'm actually pretty happy with the saw itself, but the stand has been leaning up in a corner of my shop since I made this video! I may do something with it at some point, but I haven't needed to yet with my other stand still working.
Actually you were not very negative about the saw I regret Implying you were, but to me your opinion of the stand kind of over-shadowed the review of the saw.
I do get irritated with tool manufacturers. So often I think the designs are poorly thought out and seemingly ignorant of the way carpenters and others use the tools. Of course, you can't please everybody and some of it is about personal preference, but I see a lot of tools with thoughtless design. And, with the money I spend every year on this stuff I've got a lot to be irritated about!
Brilliant review i wish i had seen it before i bought this stand. i have just found all the same faults. Also the position of the extending lever means it cant be stood up on it's end either it wants to fall over. Another thing i found was the bolts that come for putting the saw on the brackest are meant to be put on so the sqaure coller is underneath in the bracket gap. But if you do that you have long bolt ends standing up for things to catch on AND if you do it this way you cant get the full range of angle to the left because the saw will hit the bolt and nut. I was scratching my head thinking i must have this wrong??? two seperate bags of bolts and the instructions are a waste of time. Did you ever mod the stand in any way?
You know, the damned thing is still sitting in the corner of my shop waiting for my attention! I put these sorts of things aside for quiet periods when work gets slow, but I just haven't had a moment in awhile.
Sir, I may have found a solution to your Slide Knobs getting in the way on your stand. Tighten your knob fully, Unscrew the bolt holding the knob on. Re-position the plastic knob so that it is pointing straight up. Screw the bolt back into the knob assembly. This will prevent the knob from being in the way when storing in the folded position. The knob should point toward you when in the loose position and point UP in the tight position, hope This Helps.
+05mcparker Thanks--I did try this already and it worked on one side but not the other. The knob hit the frame before it was tight on that side. I do plan on doing some modification on this stand to make it usable for me, including this knob issue. Stay tuned!
with the immense cut capacity of the saw the front (finish) of the work should never "need" to come in contact with the friction grooves on the fence.
Well, that depends on what you're cutting, right? Some workpieces have multiple finish sides (such as in cabinet or furniture work) and sometimes the physical length or shape of a piece dictate how it must be placed in the saw. I really don't see the need for them anyway.
Could someone please clarify, is he saying I should or should not buy the stand? 😅
I could sell you mine!
The Hercules Stand from Harbor Freight is AWESOME!! Just got one today and very happy. Very heavy duty.
Very similar to my old Ryobi stand that I still use.
@@enduringcharm Do you place the mounts on the guide? I don't use mine as I ended up stripping the bolt. So I place the right side mount next to it. Plus it's more symmetrical that way.
Nice review, maybe a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum bolted to the fence with countersunk bolts would solve the rough fence issue. Thanks for pointing that out BTW. After this review I'm leaning towards the non-sliding 12" saw.
That roughness to the fence has not been a huge problem, but more of a minor annoyance. It poses no issue at all for cutting 2x lumber or whatever, and I'm just more careful about finished wood around it. I think it has worn a little smoother with use, as well.
Have you added Fastcap's best fence fences to your Dewalt stand? You'll love it. You'll also love the stop that comes with it.
The Bosch 12 inch axial glide comes in as my saw of choice, it seems to eliminate many of the past engineering developments that woodworkers have contended with for a long time, these tools are expensive so if accuracy is important save a while longer 🤔
+Dirk Gibbons I own a lot of Bosch tools and some of them are my absolute favorites. For this purchase, though, I didn't have much choice since I needed the saw the next day and I had to buy something off the shelf. I've since repaired my old saw, so now I have two!
Great review! Very thorough. Thanks.
I WISH SOMEONE WOULD SHOW ME HOW TO USE THE CLAMP! guess i'm gonna have to read the directions.
I'm 98% sure those fences are crosshatched as a result of poor machining, and are not an intended feature to add grip. Very likely the power feed set too fast, and lack of a finishing pass.
Interesting theory--I haven't compared other copies of the saw to know but now I'll start paying attention.
Not hating but I don't care what your old saw did or didn't do. I was thinking about getting a 780 and though with your back ground would be a good video. .
I have one of those Ryobi stands and it works GREAT.
I upgraded to the 10" version of this saw here in my home shop like 3 years ago from a Rigid 10" saw that was a piece of junk, if you were trying to do anything with any degree of accuracy. I am fairly happy with it still after all this time. The saw I use at work is a 10" version of your old saw. So I can say that lever on the front will drive you crazy at first because you are right you will catch it on everything and every time you walk by it you will snag yourself on it. I have learned to give the saw a wider berth while working with it so its not as bad for me now as when I first got it but I still snag it from time to time. I don't pack it up and move it as often as you probably do so I don't have to much issue with that and when I do, I pack other tools around it so its not an issue for me.
One of my biggest complaints about Dewalt right now as a tool company, is they are trying to hard to be the next black and decker or craftsman or stanley and have their hands into everything and they are failing at it big time in my opinion. Dewalt makes some decent powertools they should stick to that. All these crap tools that other companies are making for them is just horrible, I am sure this is where this stand come from its someone else crap rebranded to dewalt. For someone like me I prefer Makita, Bosch, Dewalt in that order for powertool brands. For no reason other than there is just lil things Makita and Bosch do a little different than Dewalt that makes me like them more but Makita, and Bosch almost impossible for me to find locally unless I want to drive an hour to somewhere better than a Lowes or home Depot. So that makes me tend to buy Dewalt but makes me worry because how long till the powertool part of dewalt gets farmed out too and than all there products will be crap? LOL
+Mopardude I have the same difficulty getting my hands on a tool to actually look at it before I buy it. Retailers don't carry much stock anymore, and displays are often ten feet in the air! It's frustrating, especially when you're spending thousands of dollars every year on tools.
enduringcharm
Very true!
Great review on the stand - thanks for that.
I wish I watch this video before buying the stand. Oh well, it's still in the box. I think I'm going to take it back and just use my ridgid gravity stand. Too bad, the dewalt stand is more compact and that's why I got it with the saw. I'll have to figure something out.
You can unscrew the lock lever and flip it up a bit to get it off the floor.
I had intended to do some modifications to my stand to improve some of the drawbacks, but I just haven't gotten to it yet. That lock lever movement you suggested I did try, but it only worked on one side. The other side the lever couldn't actually lock after I tried moving it because it hit the stand. I think that lever can be modified to work though. I was actually thinking of sawing the saw stand down to make it a shorter for my trailer, as well as some other mods. Maybe I'll get to it this coming year.
enduringcharm sounds like an awful lot of work for a stand you don't like. I'd sell it and buy another Ryobi. My 10" Makita is sitting on the same Ryobi stand and works just fine. I'll probably get the Kobalt or another Ryobi after I take this one back.
Excellent review.
Great review, thank you.
A tool is just like a musical instrument ..Some can play classical; guitar on a Hannah Montana guitar and others can't a play a thing with a wall of Marshall stacks and a 7000.00 Paul Reed Smith guitar .. The tool is the scalpel in the hands of a surgeon .... You finds its idiosyncrasies and mentally dial them in .... Many inadequate carpenters .. blame the tools !! .. .. Let us go back a 100 years and we didn't have all the nifty tools we have today .. and the question is ... How did they fit their workmanship better than 99.99% of the carpenters today ?.. I think I have a right to say this .. 37 years .. Master Carpenter and my work has graced many magazines covers .. I use this saw .. and have identified it's quirks .. and played it like it was Stradivarius
IVORY123100 so true. I built my first miter-box when I was a boy. It worked wonderfully and was infinitely adjustable, super portable and incredibly durable. Oh and it was basically free.
how much ego there is here. The man is giving an opinion on what he bought, nothing more. Masterrrrr
I had a 10" Milwaukee 18v battery operated mitre saw and the tension pulling the saw blade down was too much and I also tried the Dewalt 60v mitre saw at the store and the tension was a lot too. If your doing those 2-3 fine cutiing the tension is a hassle. Don't care for that at all.
I actually love the “file fence” holds my rough work nice and still. When ever I do finish work I attach a 12mm piece of hardwood to all my fences.
I think it does depend on what type of work you are doing whether you'll like this feature or not.
I did love listening to this review
I believe the phrase this is stupid was used over 20 times 🤣 but very informative and well picked on
So stupid! Yeah, I get annoyed when I spend perfectly good money and get substandard products in return.
HI John,I've read/heard comments [elsewhere] on the wisdom of a 10" vs 12" miter saw (especially w/ a slider) for the hobbyist - mainly for interchangeability with a table saw, etc. ...I suppose size always matters with the professional but can you opine why a hobbyist might consider one size over the other (i.e., 10 vs. 12) when equipping a home shop? Enjoy your posts. Thanks ...--- Mark
+Mark Smith An awful lot depends on the size of the trim or other workpieces you'll be cutting. For me, the extra depth of the 12" chop cut on taller mouldings is essential. If you'll be doing only smaller mouldings or if you'll mostly be using the sliding crosscut capacity then the 10" might be fine. Of course, when I went to purchase this saw quickly, they only had 12" available in stock. I suspect the industry is going that way since bigger is always better to the American consumer! $600 is a lot of money for a saw, especially when these things only seem to last me a couple-few years anymore. Not much choice, though--I gotta have the tools to make the living.
One of the things that jumps right out at me about this saw, and I too own one, is the gap between the turntable and fence. If you look at this aspect, the table is not square to the fence on the horizontal plane. Get out your feeler gauges and check it out. I trying to return my saw as we speak. I've looked at 5 different 780 saws and they are all the same. Sucks, Dewalt used to be one of the good ones too.
Wait, I think you lost me--are you saying you have too large a gap between the table and the fence where they form a 90 degree corner? Or are you saying that the fence is not 90 degrees to the table?
enduringcharm compare the horizontal plane of the turntable as it relates to the rest of the saws table and fence. My table has a slightest slope to the left.
I see what you're getting at. In other words, if you put a straight edge across the entire table, you see a greater gap between the left side of the circular turntable and the straight edge versus the right side of the circular turntable and the straight edge, correct? I went out to check mine. In the four inch center of the turntable I have uniform gap to the straight edge. At the outer edge of the turntable I can make out a very subtle bias to the left. I didn't get out my feeler gauges or dial indicator, but the difference is no more than a thickness of paper. It hasn't been a problem for me, especially as I support the workpiece with either a bench in the shop or the stand in the field at the same level as the table. I DO wish the table itself on the saw was larger. My older double-miter has a larger surface which adds more stability. But, this issue you mention has not been a problem in accuracy for me. Maybe your copy of the saw has a more pronounced tilt.
enduringcharm Now if you straight edge the material supports on the ends does the table sit slightly below those as well?
It's times like this I wish TH-cam allowed the sharing of pictures! I think we're saying the same thing. In other words, I'm calling the main casting in which the fence slides the "entire table" and you're calling it the "material supports". So, if I put a straightedge over the whole shebang, the main casting and the turntable part that moves, I can detect an ever so slight space on the left outer edge of the turntable. The inside of that turntable is uniform left and right, though. Of course, you want a slight uniform gap for the turntable, otherwise when you turn to select or adjust an angle, you'd be moving the workpiece with it. In theory the main casting is supporting the workpiece so you can hold it in place, and you may need to adjust the angle by a degree or whatever, so the turntable moves freely under the workpiece. But, I agree, you want that gap to be uniform. And, I do wish the main casting provided a larger surface. So, maybe your copy of the saw is more off than mine. I've done some pretty detailed work on mine (like, in half degrees) and on fairly short work pieces of only six inches or so and I haven't been bothered by the gap. Does your saw measure extra gap on the left just on the outside edge of the turntable or is it that the entire turntable left to right is slanted left?
Great Vid man, from a worker. Getting tired of watching UNBOXING
That's why I took my stand back an bought a folding portable delta unit.
Also bought the dws779 saw fir half price an bought the add on light.
Did the exact same thing on all counts
BUY THE BOSCH GTA3800
HAS WHEELS TO MOVE THE SAW TO ANOTHER ROOM AND THE SLIDE SIDE SUPPORTS ARE MUCH MORE STURDY AND THE PRICE IS LESS.
Sell the dewalt stand and continue to use the old stand, problem solved.
Pisses me off that Dewalt sells otherwise really decent saws with 99 cent store blades.
Yeah, they always cut corners somewhere, it seems.
Un bolt the end levers, pull them off and rotate them and rebolt them. 1 problem solved
That does work for some people, but my particular copy the alignment just doesn't work out. This stand has actually been collecting dust in my shop since the video was made. I'm still using my old one!
This saw is the best on the market wither you like it or not
Why did you buy it if you don’t like it
I wouldn’t like to be your workmate listening to you moaning all day. You should listen to yourself 😡
Did you actually watch the video? I do like the saw and I still have it years later. But, that doesn't mean I shouldn't point out deficiencies where I see them. It's a review. That's what reviews are for. You might have been searching for a fan-club video, which is a different thing.
Are you fucking dewalt? The tools all have faults and I want to hear them out.
600 bucks ??
Here I germany it is around 800€ which is like 900 usd -___- (with the stand even more)
But thanks for the stand review I prefer Building one myself then (I will use it stationary)
sounds like you arent very happy overall
Does it? The saw itself has been pretty good since this review and other than those minor things about the fence I pointed out I've had no issues. The stand, however, has really not moved from the corner of the shop since I got it.
I don't believe this man likes this saw lol
I must have come across more aggravated than I intended, because I don't hate the saw. I just want to hold manufacturers to a high standard when we all spend our hard earned money on these tools. The stand, however, is not my cup of tea. I don't think it's moved from it's hiding place in the shop since I bought it.
@@enduringcharm hey I'm with ya man I was mostly just joking. I bought one yesterday but didn't spring for the stand and after watching your video in glad I didn't. I'm gonna go with another brand of stand
600 dolars in usa and 1050 in europe wtf is this :)
It must be the conversion and/or shipping
When you make a living with your tools TRUST ME more often than not your going to get exactly what you pay for rather it's cheap or not
Complain complain complain, maybe try doing some research or look up some reviews on future purchases?
I literally laughed out loud at your comment. This IS the review! I made the video, like so many others, so that other people can look it up and research before making their purchase. if you want fan-boy content, then go check out the manufacturer's website. I'm here to tell the truth about what I find, and that sometimes means complaining about poorly designed and over-priced tools so that others don't spend their money on garbage.
I have one of these stands and have no issues with it at all I think it's great, I think you just like moaning, I'd hate to be your wife:-))
Well, I'd hate for you to be my wife!
bahahaha
Yeah, most of the gripes with the stand seems to be with packing it up and moving it at the end of the day ... something a contractor like John needs to deal with every single day. I'm just a weekend DIY'er who likes how it stows away in a corner of my garage when I'm not working on weekend projects. I set it up Saturday morning and then I pack it away Sunday evening and then I move the car back into the garage. Done. So, it's only something I deal with once a week. If DeWalt was going after the weekend crowd, then they got it right. However, for pros like John, they do need to address the mobility issues and come up with a different "pro line" version for that segment of the market. After all, it's pros using DeWalt products out in the field which gets free product exposure to weekend warrior wannabes like me. :)
this guy have issues with dewalt.
Actually the majority of my tools are DeWalt, followed by Bosch, Milwaukee and Rigid, among others. I DO have an issue with poor design, though.