I am very happy with the box design i got from you a couple years ago for my sundown zv6 12 in my Ford Ranger Designing it myself with doubled 5/8" and a triple baffle was beyond the capabilities of the simple enclosure design program i've used in the past (Torres) so i went with a design purchased from you and it's rock solid and bumps pretty damn good, thanks Mark
All the brands I work with I've bought from in the past. Companies I have confidence in, and I also make it very clear when posts are sponsored unlike some other car audio creators that take free stuff but say nothing. Crutchfield is one of my long time favorites!
Great informative video as usual!👍 I've definately made a few misstakes along the way. High impedance comes to mind as one. Any chance you'd do any videos on smaller vehicles in the future? I find squeezing good audion into a small car is way harder, and I usually never quite succeed. I had too much bass in one ear in my mr2, my mini is short on space to put it politely, and I've got a small panel van (mk2 caddy) as well, which needs a stereo, but also needs to be an actual van, and not loose any space. And my miata is a soft top, so that brings its own acoustic challenges. Finding info on big systems in big cars is never a problem, but i've yet to see any videos on how to build for small cars.
Is it possible to run one Rockford P3 with a port and one P3 in a sealed within the same box? Would that work? I bought two, and they sound great, but the sealed box i built just doesn't hit the low notes like i prefer. I would rather not take up all the space in my trunk for a box as i put my tools on there. The box i have is made to spec for both P3's for sealed dimensions. I guess my question is, would it sound better with one sealed and one ported, and would it work making one box with sharing walls extra sturdy?
Do you have any videos about installing stereos in vehicles that have built in systems? For example, I have a 2018 Durango SRT. It came with a stock 8" sub and I have since upgraded to 2x 12" JL W6s. I cannot get these to sound good and Ive been to multiple shops. I have a pac amp pro installed to get a "flat signal" and its still terrrible. do you deep dive into this process anywhere?
@CarAudioFabrication Nice! I got an ancient high end woofer I never used, but I'm going to try to measure it for it's specs (if it still works 😬), and get in touch next year 😊
I have a new alpine type S 12" and the mrv-500 amp. I have sealed box. Do you need fluff pading inside the box and should I caulk the whole thing absolutely airtight?
It would depend on what size your box is. You could add poly to it and see which way you prefer, as everyone hears differently. I have two of those. They have been in my closet for a while and I am going to implement them as bass for my home stereo I am building. I'll probably get amp from PartsExpress instead of a car amp so it looks better flush on the back of the box. For sealing, yes. You should always add a decent layer of caulk (or adhesive) to all of the connecting walls. I usually use extra sound deadening material at the mating point from the subs as well. I just peal of the aluminum layer.
Is it possible to discuss subject about upgrading hybrid vehicles? Simple replacement of alternator is not possible, changing small 12v battery to bigger is limited by its charging source, maybe there are some solutions of powering amps from traction battery?
Generally ported box for "boomier" bass and louder low frequencies. Sealed if space is really tight or u prefer cleaner SQ type bass more. I have two of the same subs connected to 1 ohm with 3kW mono amp and been trying to find the perfect setup. Hard task but thankfully those alpine type R subs are surprisingly good for both SQ and SPL applications.
You kind of need personal experience to know which you prefer. Can always get both to figure out. But if you’re a person who feels like the bass is never deep enough or loud enough, ported is likely a good place to start.
Is it better to for subs in a sealed enclosure to have the minimum recommended volume or maximum? My encloure is measured at .89 ft3, the minimum for my sub is rated at .66 and the maximum for my subs is rated for 1.25
I had a box installed under my trunk panel where my “spare” would’ve been. It does not sound good and now that loose lid just vibrates around. This is in an Audi RS3.
Will a 3 inch aero port good enough for 8 inch sub in 0.9 cu-ft after sub and port displacement on 500wrms and tuned to 37hz. Reason for wanting to use the aero port is in case I need to adjust the tuning when install in the vehicle.
Unless that 8 is some excursion monster, I think you do not necessarily need an AeroPort; a regular round pipe port should suffice. If you already have the AeroPort though, it certainly won't hurt.
I wanted to have 2 mono blocks for 2 of the 12" subs I'll install with a ported box. The subs are 9000W and 2000W RMS while the amp is 9000W max, 4400W @ 1 ohm and 2200W @ 2 ohms so I wanted each sub to have its own mono and my friends say its a bit much since 1 amp can power both but the thing is I want a system that I'll be able to run at 50-60% volume daily without it heating up, what are your thoughts?
You're definitely going to need to upgrade your alternator 330 amp alternator charging wire. Minimum of two batteries if not three with a cap5 min. And some ground straps. Add a minimum of two block to frame ground straps. 4 frame to body. That's six ground straps. Your entire vehicle creates the power. If you do not do any of these electrical upgrades. At 9 kilowatts of power you're going to need a fire extinguisher✌❤😃
Including metric measurements would be nice for us that don't use the old imperial system. Enjoy your content, just don't use or understand your measurments.
Another I'd add is the idea that swapping out a good aftermarket sub in a stock "enclosure" would bring much, if any, improvement to your system. In almost every use case, it's not worth the money, if it works at all. Clearance issues, enclosure issues, rattling issues, power issues, impedance issues... it just doesn't perform worth the money nor the effort. Complete waste of time and money.
LET ME INTRODUCE A NEW LINE OF AMPS THAT HAVE 2 VERSIONS, '' The Republican " An amp that actually works, with power banks for surge spikes ,that keep the amplifier "TRUE'' USING TRUTH TECHNOLOGY with a new Integrated MAGA circuit you will enjoy for years to come . "The Democrat" A highly mass produced replicated from the "trial and error" of good and failed designs . With stolen technology , this amps high tech power supply can barrow power from Tom to pay Steve power distribution. These amps run hot, outperforming the republican when linked with supplied NPC hive cables .
Very solid info on the internal air space for the actual subs! 💯
I am very happy with the box design i got from you a couple years ago for my sundown zv6 12 in my Ford Ranger
Designing it myself with doubled 5/8" and a triple baffle was beyond the capabilities of the simple enclosure design program i've used in the past (Torres) so i went with a design purchased from you and it's rock solid and bumps pretty damn good, thanks Mark
i normally hate ad reads, but I just love Crutchfield
All the brands I work with I've bought from in the past. Companies I have confidence in, and I also make it very clear when posts are sponsored unlike some other car audio creators that take free stuff but say nothing. Crutchfield is one of my long time favorites!
Great informative video as usual!👍 I've definately made a few misstakes along the way. High impedance comes to mind as one. Any chance you'd do any videos on smaller vehicles in the future? I find squeezing good audion into a small car is way harder, and I usually never quite succeed. I had too much bass in one ear in my mr2, my mini is short on space to put it politely, and I've got a small panel van (mk2 caddy) as well, which needs a stereo, but also needs to be an actual van, and not loose any space. And my miata is a soft top, so that brings its own acoustic challenges. Finding info on big systems in big cars is never a problem, but i've yet to see any videos on how to build for small cars.
Is it possible to run one Rockford P3 with a port and one P3 in a sealed within the same box? Would that work? I bought two, and they sound great, but the sealed box i built just doesn't hit the low notes like i prefer. I would rather not take up all the space in my trunk for a box as i put my tools on there. The box i have is made to spec for both P3's for sealed dimensions.
I guess my question is, would it sound better with one sealed and one ported, and would it work making one box with sharing walls extra sturdy?
Do you have any videos about installing stereos in vehicles that have built in systems? For example, I have a 2018 Durango SRT. It came with a stock 8" sub and I have since upgraded to 2x 12" JL W6s. I cannot get these to sound good and Ive been to multiple shops. I have a pac amp pro installed to get a "flat signal" and its still terrrible. do you deep dive into this process anywhere?
No matter what you do... ALWAYS TURN THAT GAIN UP AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE.
@@elcomandante9299 why?
Why?
lol, the clip light just stays on.
I think he's joking
It plays the best turned all the way up!!😮😂
With the subwoofer designs. Can you do that for home setups too?
Of course!
@CarAudioFabrication Nice! I got an ancient high end woofer I never used, but I'm going to try to measure it for it's specs (if it still works 😬), and get in touch next year 😊
I have a new alpine type S 12" and the mrv-500 amp. I have sealed box. Do you need fluff pading inside the box and should I caulk the whole thing absolutely airtight?
@@nomadchad8243 I just added polyfil to two sealed 12s and WOW. Makes a huge difference.
It would depend on what size your box is. You could add poly to it and see which way you prefer, as everyone hears differently. I have two of those. They have been in my closet for a while and I am going to implement them as bass for my home stereo I am building. I'll probably get amp from PartsExpress instead of a car amp so it looks better flush on the back of the box.
For sealing, yes. You should always add a decent layer of caulk (or adhesive) to all of the connecting walls. I usually use extra sound deadening material at the mating point from the subs as well. I just peal of the aluminum layer.
can you do a sound system setup for a hatchback car, using Pioneer or Targa products.
Sorry, I only use brands I believe in and that actively support the making of our videos.
bass from speakers and bass from subwoofer, cancelling bass or phase cancellation,
all other things checked and ok
any suggestions...
Is it possible to discuss subject about upgrading hybrid vehicles? Simple replacement of alternator is not possible, changing small 12v battery to bigger is limited by its charging source, maybe there are some solutions of powering amps from traction battery?
I have an alpine swr-12d4 with a 500 watt alpine mono block should I put the 12 woofer in a sealed or ported box?
Depends
Generally ported box for "boomier" bass and louder low frequencies. Sealed if space is really tight or u prefer cleaner SQ type bass more. I have two of the same subs connected to 1 ohm with 3kW mono amp and been trying to find the perfect setup. Hard task but thankfully those alpine type R subs are surprisingly good for both SQ and SPL applications.
You kind of need personal experience to know which you prefer. Can always get both to figure out. But if you’re a person who feels like the bass is never deep enough or loud enough, ported is likely a good place to start.
What genre of music do you listen to?
Is it better to for subs in a sealed enclosure to have the minimum recommended volume or maximum? My encloure is measured at .89 ft3, the minimum for my sub is rated at .66 and the maximum for my subs is rated for 1.25
Who is this guy in that hat
Hat suits i recon
How do you feel about Memphis Audio? I have heard it in a few mini trucks and it sounds fantastic to me. But I am not a pro.
Memphis is ok. I had many subs. No Amps tho
I had a box installed under my trunk panel where my “spare” would’ve been. It does not sound good and now that loose lid just vibrates around. This is in an Audi RS3.
hat is fire
Mark help me in my case:
I have Pioneer TS-W312D4 sub & I want to buy a Mono amp for this sub, so which amp is good ? Please Help Me 🙏🏻
Will a 3 inch aero port good enough for 8 inch sub in 0.9 cu-ft after sub and port displacement on 500wrms and tuned to 37hz. Reason for wanting to use the aero port is in case I need to adjust the tuning when install in the vehicle.
Unless that 8 is some excursion monster, I think you do not necessarily need an AeroPort; a regular round pipe port should suffice. If you already have the AeroPort though, it certainly won't hurt.
I have a jl audio 12 in w7 powered by a hd 750. Can you recommend a jl spec sub box or where to purchase a box of that spec?
Brother google is a thing. Concept enclosures on ebay makes great boxes and will alter dimensions for your application.
@ sounds good gotta check it out
I wanted to have 2 mono blocks for 2 of the 12" subs I'll install with a ported box. The subs are 9000W and 2000W RMS while the amp is 9000W max, 4400W @ 1 ohm and 2200W @ 2 ohms so I wanted each sub to have its own mono and my friends say its a bit much since 1 amp can power both but the thing is I want a system that I'll be able to run at 50-60% volume daily without it heating up, what are your thoughts?
Ported box designs are very efficient... short answer, you aren't likely to see any heat running off one amp.
Especially with class D amps
You're definitely going to need to upgrade your alternator 330 amp alternator charging wire. Minimum of two batteries if not three with a cap5 min. And some ground straps. Add a minimum of two block to frame ground straps. 4 frame to body. That's six ground straps. Your entire vehicle creates the power. If you do not do any of these electrical upgrades. At 9 kilowatts of power you're going to need a fire extinguisher✌❤😃
@@crazyfoot490 Noted🤣. The system will be professionally installed all I have to do is buy the components required
Can you make a video on amp racks and different ways to mount in the trunk
Another is under-powering sealed enclosures.
Including metric measurements would be nice for us that don't use the old imperial system.
Enjoy your content, just don't use or understand your measurments.
Another I'd add is the idea that swapping out a good aftermarket sub in a stock "enclosure" would bring much, if any, improvement to your system. In almost every use case, it's not worth the money, if it works at all. Clearance issues, enclosure issues, rattling issues, power issues, impedance issues... it just doesn't perform worth the money nor the effort. Complete waste of time and money.
❤❤❤
Thanks for watching
This is over elementary. Why doesnt he have an Autodesk program to fidget with?
LET ME INTRODUCE A NEW LINE OF AMPS THAT HAVE 2 VERSIONS,
'' The Republican "
An amp that actually works, with power banks for surge spikes ,that keep the amplifier "TRUE'' USING TRUTH TECHNOLOGY with a new Integrated MAGA circuit you will enjoy for years to come .
"The Democrat"
A highly mass produced replicated from the "trial and error" of good and failed designs . With stolen technology , this amps high tech power supply can barrow power from Tom to pay Steve power distribution. These amps run hot, outperforming the republican when linked with supplied NPC hive cables .
The only problem with the republican amp is it's love of people that wear small hats 😂