Bro your channel is so in depth that I swear only Subie owners who literally want to know details down to o ring material an size are subs. Cause this info goes right over most Subie owners. I love your take on 5 speed MT strongest model etc.
Short and sweet, but informative and really gets those (willing to watch it) some food for thought as to what goes into engine assembly and proper function.
Good info! I've been wondering how to tell them apart without disassembly or trying to measure the rotor through the drive hole. I understand the huge number of variables you can have when you stray from stock, but I would like to know what adding one additional 1mm shim will do or even two. Surely there is a general rule about how much that boosts pressure for a given pump.
Not too sure about the ej208 (twin turbo) having a 12mm oil pump as my "rev D" motor has a 10mm pump. but thats not to say it was replaced at some stage but there doesn't seem to be any indication that it was replaced. where did you find this information id like to have a read :) keep up the vidz!!!
Good info... I have a supercharged (Does not use engine oil) EJ253 (pre AVLS ACVS , etc.) and was just pondering oil pump capacity. I have read that mine is only 7mm (Subaru PN 15010AA290). Before any thought of upgrading, I think I first need to get an oil pressure gauge on there to keep an eye on things .
Hello Patrick. Yep, getting a solid baseline is always the best place to start before you are making any chances. And if you are getting sufficient pressure with your existing pump, then the need to make any chances will be much less if any. Thanks for watching!
@@alejandrotobienne8220 Yes I do.. still working on it. I had a Raptor but now have a Vortech on it. The Vortech should be able to make a bit more power!
@@alejandrotobienne8220 I have a few videos on my youtube channel. It is based off of the Raptor bracket (power steering pump mount). The vortech is a lot heavier so I've had to add a little extra brace to keep it from moving. I'm running a dedicated off-the-front pulley now, with a heavy duty spring tensioner. It helps with belt slip a lot. th-cam.com/video/XjwD5S4C-lw/w-d-xo.html
Why would you want to fit a bigger OEM pump on a car that originates from a model that was never offered here? I’ve spoken to my engine installer/tuner and he said to stay away from it but it’s fine to go from the 10mm to the 11mm.
Thanks for your question. It comes down to the build of the engine because of the tolerances, how the car is used, etc. Lots of things to consider. Take a look at this video where we go into more detail about the 12mm pump specifically: th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html And there is also this video: th-cam.com/video/FcQajmmPOFU/w-d-xo.html This is something that we seem to be digging into more and more lately. Stay Tuned!
First if I'm running all internal stock but only upgraded a parallel fuel setup does it can effect the engine without changing the oil pump....does it consider a stock or modify engine. Second if change to a 11mm or 12mm oil pump what do I gain with a parallel fuel setup and stock engine.
Thanks for your question. The parallel fuel system doesn't have any connection to the oiling system, so there aren't any benefits or drawbacks of the oil pump selection related to the fuel system. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Basically, if you aren't changing the oiling system away from stock, stay with the stock 10mm oil pump. You would only need to possibly look at a larger volume pump if you are reducing the restriction on the oiling system (with loser bearing clearances for instance), or adding in other draws, which most likely you aren't. In short, keep it simple and stay with the pump that came on your engine, and the single AVCS 2.5 turbo's. good luck with the build!
Should I upgrade the oil pump if the turbo is upgraded? 05 LGT stock block, 20g turbo I've had 2 turbo failures on my LGT due to oil. I've upgraded the turbo oil lines but still oil starvation problems. Turbo MFG informed me the 05 LGT have a oiling problem in the cylinder head itself. Told me to run a line directly off oil filter sandwich plate. Thoughts?
Thanks for your question. Generally speaking, you should not need to upgrade the oil pump just because the turbo is upgraded. Have you measured oil pressure at the turbo? Also, if you are still using the stock banjo bolt at the turbo for the oil feed, have you removed the filter? Subaru has a bulletin about that. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the response. Extremely odd situation. Found electrical tape stuffed inside the expansion tank. Specifically to the upper turbo coolant port… thanks to a family member. (Long story, I’m extremely pissed) fixed that, added a oil pressure gauge on the turbo line. Oil pressure is great. Engine is healthy. Turbo failure may be coolant system related. Going to test and flush oil and coolant system again and again. You’ve been more than helpful. Thanks once again!
Hello and thank you for all your videos. I am doing a complete build using an IAG STG 2 block. I believe they are using STD bearing clearances. The only thing that is diff an FP HTZ blue turbo. But it was required during install to use their specific oil feed line. Car is 05 STI but heads came off an 07 STI. I am using the 07 AVCS solenoids to match year of heads because of recommendations on other vids you put out to change all parts that may Be effected by metal contamination getting into them and not being able to clean them. Not sure if they are diff on amount of oil required than 05 solenoids. Thanks
Thanks for your question Robet. The 2007 STI still came with a 10mm pump, that wasn't changed by the factory until 2008 when dual AVCS got added. From our takling with IAG, they recommend the 11mm pump over the 10mm for their stage 2 blocks. You may want to contact IAG directly about that, and to get your build sheet so you can see what your tolerances are, but from our experience, that is what they will recommend. Good luck with your build, and thanks for watching!
I'm looking at changing the cams, upping my RPM range, and going higher compression on a EJ253 motor. Would going to a 11 or 12mm pump benefit me or would a 10mm pump still work?
Thanks for your question. That is a little tough. I'd say that the size of the pump rotor would be more a function of your bearing clearances more than the cams and target red-line. The general principal to keep in mind is that the larger the rotor, the earlier the pump will cavitate. If you are going to run loser tolerances, then you would definitely want to run the larger pump. I'd say that you would definitely want to monitor your oil pressure, and if you start to see your pressure fall in the upper-rpm range, don't go past that point, as there is a good chance that is where the pump is starting to fall our of efficiency. If you haven't found it all ready, this would be worth a watch too: th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
So if im understanding this correctly, I should leave the 11mm in my non AVCS single turbo version 6 ej207 with v7 block. I bought a 12mm pump a while back thinking It'd be great to have because im terrified of my first subaru build blowing up
Thanks for your question. If you are not seeing any issues with oil pressure, I would say that there would not be much if anything to gain by putting in a larger volume pump. And yes, it could potentially cause some issues because the relief valve would be open more. If you haven't all ready, take a look at this video we did about oil pressure as well: th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. I'd say that it would come down to your bearing tolerances more than anything, but if they are at all loser than stock, the 12mm pump may be a good fit for sure. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Great videos! Keep them coming! I have a 04 fxt I which I'm putting a stock 08sti short block reusing my stock b25 heads. The only thing I'm changing, oiling wise, is using an aftermarket oil cooler with thermostatic valve. My question is, would the 11mm pump be a better choice since I'm increasing the length of the oil path? I'm just concerned because the cooler only works above 180degrees and until then, recircs back into the engine.
Thanks for your question! I'd first recommend contacting the manufacturer of the oil cooler you are using to see if they recommend a different pump. Short of that, most likely you will not need a different oil pump just for adding the cooler as long as it has proper sized lines to the cooler. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your build!
So would just getting a dry sump be a better choice over all 3? I know a dry sump is more expensive. Are there things to look out for/consider for a dry sump application?
Thanks for your question. First, there is a lot going on with a dry sump system, but if you really need to control oil pressure, ensure that you are not starving your pick-up from cornering side-loads, the dry sump is the best solution. We actually have a video with an overview about dry-sumps that goes into detail about their benefits. Here is a lik to that: th-cam.com/video/StS0UKVhEGE/w-d-xo.html Now, getting all this to work on a Subaru can be complicated, and require a lot of custom fab. But we have found, and now stock the Roger Clark Motorsport dry sump kit that is a full bolt-on solution, but it is missing lines and a tank for the moment for a left-hand drive car (but we are working on that too!) Here is a link to that kit: www.flatironstuning.com/p-4157-roger-clark-motorsports-ej-dry-sump-pan-kit-cover-feed.aspx So hopefully that will help and please feel to reach out to us directly if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching!
FlatironsTuning that's amazing. Thank you for all the input. I'm building my 2011 STI and I'm considering it as a possibility but want to read up more on it.
Thanks for your question. It should not. The relief valve pressure in all of the pumps is about the same, which means that the peak pressure will be largely constant. You will just get there faster with the larger volume pump. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. If your car is stock, most likely the best option is to stay with the pump that is correct for your car. This is because you aren't changing any of the restrictions in the oiling system, etc. I hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
I bought and rebuilt a wrx ej205 that had rod knock and within 200 miles rod #3 locked up because of an oiling issue. Unknown to us the oil pump was scratched up very badly and needed to be replaced so we starved it. It has stock valve clearances however it has more aggressive cams, forged cp pistons, and custom bearings from a local machine shop. It had an 11mm oil pump however it had oil issues obviously and hovered at 8psi at idle and about 40 psi during driving at 3000rpm. Could you recommend the 12? Is there an issue with the oil pump pumping a larger volume than what’s in the oil pan? Could it starve without a bigger oil pan?
Thanks for your question. The volume of the pan should not be an issue. I would recommend that you take a look at this other video that we put together were we specifically take a look at oil pressure and the 12mm oil pump: th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps, and Stay Tuned!
Hi there, not sure if I'd meet the need of 11mm given my builds not as aggressive as others. Do you think a stock head single avcs motor with a set of 4032 forged pistons with a ptw clearence of around 0.0025 in along with king rod and main bearings would benefit from an 11mm pump? I figure with larger clearances maybe its good idea. Thanks.
Thanks for your question. If you are running loser bearing clearances, then yes, you would most likely want to run a larger volume pump. If you are running stock bearing clearances, then you would likely be okay with the 10mm oil pump. I would also mention that if you have seen any issues with your current setup where your oil pressure was lower than your target, that would be the other indicator that you may want to go with a larger volume pump. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps.
Thanks for your question. The short answer is I wouldn't recommend it. If your oiling tolerances are all stock, then you don't need the additional volume that the 12mm pump provides. If you put it on, the oil will spend a lot more time running through the relief valve. I'd recommend going through this other video we put together specifically on this topic: th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Question - I have a 99 EJ223 na engine I'm servicing and am considering replacing the oil pump. However I don't know what brand of aftermarket pump to get. Is there a brand that you guys prefer, or would a new OE pump be the best choice?
So how does a larger bearing clearance lower oil pressure? .. Theoretically the pressure should increase due to the larger surface area the oil is touching and being forced against.
Thanks for your question. In this context, larger means that there is more space between the rotating component (say the crank) and the bearing. Since there is more space for the oil to fill, that is what is reducing the restriction. Think of it as taking a small straw out, and replacing it with a larger straw, and doing that on all of the bearings in the engine. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the question. The EJ207 came with a 10mm pump up until it went to dual AVCS. At that point it went to an 11mm just like the USDM cars. So either of those should work fine assuming you are still using stock bearing clearances depending on which EJ207 you have.
Thanks for your question. Just adding an oil cooler should not change the demand on the oiling system. Though that does depend slightly on the core that you are using and the overall design of the oil cooler. Hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Any major downsides running 11 mm on older non avcs engine? I'm going to update my oil pump to have timing belt guide mounting points. Engine now has vf28 installed, but I plan to put oil-cooled td05 turbo on it. Is 11 mm a good idea or I better stick to 10mm?
Thanks for your question. If you are not changing any of the restrictions in the oiling system (like loser bearing clearances, etc.), then we typically say that you are better off staying with the pump that your engine was designed with. The benefit of going to a larger pump is that you will build more pressure faster. But you will then also hit your relief-valve pressure faster as well. If you are concerned about building pressure quickly, then you could certainly try a larger pump. We typically stick with the pump the engine was designed for, and it has worked well for us so far. I hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning well, the car is mostly used on track or on highway driving there and back. I had couple of occasions of timing belt slipping a tooth or two, so I decided to replace timing belt and install timing belt guide and for that I need newer oil pump because my current one doesn't have mounts for the guard. I can't confirm the pump size at the moment, but I have two older ej20 cars and this one has twice as high oil pressure on hot idle than my other one (above 2 bar). This and plans to install oil - cooled turbo with bigger oil restrictor made me thinking that 11 mm pump will be ok for this application. The engine is early STi version 2 with older style shim-under-bucket lifters. I've seen some opinions that theese are closed deck blocks and it might have oil jets installed as well...
@@777MAV Gotcha. Yes, if you have an early block like that (EJ20G maybe?) and it has oil squirters, that is a draw on the oiling system for sure. In that case, a larger pump would not be a bad idea. I'd definitely say see what you have in there, and if you have a 10mm pump and you are seeing low pressure, that is an indication that you may want to go up in size. 11mm, or maybe even 12mm.
@@FlatironsTuning yes, it's EJ20G, originally with early COP ignition, slanted inercooler and 5th injector in center of the manifold. But nowdays it's converted to newage coils, V4 STi(ej20K) manifold, intercooler and wiring and v3-4 plugin link ECU :) Thank you!
Thanks for your question! Since the VF 48 is basically a newer version of the VF39, which the STI came with and had a 10mm pump, the 10mm pump would be fine on your car as well assuming there are no other changes made to your oiling system. Good luck with your build!
What a brilliant video, thanks for spending the time to create this... A question however, my '04 JDM Impreza STI came with a 10mm oil pump and was recently replaced for a new modified 10mm oil pump (rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/28-rcm-10mm-modified-oil-pump). Is the wrong pump fitted to the car, bare in mind it's a fairly standard car otherwise?
Thanks for the question Neil. That is an RCM modified oil pump. The volume is not changed, they have just increased the relief valve pressure. As long as you are still seeing the target pressure you want, it should be fine for your application.
error in video info all non turbo ej25 motors and turbo ej20 non avcs got 10mm pumps all ej255/ej257 got 11mm oil pumps and all jdm motors duel avcs motors got 12mm oil pumps fimd it intresting how our usdm duel avcs ej257 never got the 12mm oil pump vs jdm ej20x/y duel avcs did
I was told they put 8 different engines in my 2010 Forester. Without the serial numbers, they couldnt even match simple stuff with my car. Luckly I had that info on my insurance paper in the car.
Bro your channel is so in depth that I swear only Subie owners who literally want to know details down to o ring material an size are subs. Cause this info goes right over most Subie owners. I love your take on 5 speed MT strongest model etc.
The 2006 2.5i with AVLS came with 10mm because of oil pressure valves.
Thanks for the information, and thanks for watching.
Stay Tuned!
Short and sweet, but informative and really gets those (willing to watch it) some food for thought as to what goes into engine assembly and proper function.
Thanks William!
I bought a few twin turbo legacy head and blocks (jdm) the ones I got were 10mm but the later jdm BL/BP legacies with dual avcs are 12mm
Glad this video went in depth about what we discussed shortly
Thanks Brian!
Good info! I've been wondering how to tell them apart without disassembly or trying to measure the rotor through the drive hole. I understand the huge number of variables you can have when you stray from stock, but I would like to know what adding one additional 1mm shim will do or even two. Surely there is a general rule about how much that boosts pressure for a given pump.
Thanks Glyn! We may have to do some research about the shims, and if we do, I'll let you know.
The one dislike, does not know that they need oil for there car. Lol. 😂
Not too sure about the ej208 (twin turbo) having a 12mm oil pump as my "rev D" motor has a 10mm pump. but thats not to say it was replaced at some stage but there doesn't seem to be any indication that it was replaced. where did you find this information id like to have a read :) keep up the vidz!!!
Thank you!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Excellent video! Thanks for posting it, it was very helpful.
Thanks for watching!
Good info... I have a supercharged (Does not use engine oil) EJ253 (pre AVLS ACVS , etc.) and was just pondering oil pump capacity. I have read that mine is only 7mm (Subaru PN 15010AA290). Before any thought of upgrading, I think I first need to get an oil pressure gauge on there to keep an eye on things .
Hello Patrick. Yep, getting a solid baseline is always the best place to start before you are making any chances. And if you are getting sufficient pressure with your existing pump, then the need to make any chances will be much less if any.
Thanks for watching!
You still have car mine was too with AVLS RAPTOR SUPERCHARGER
@@alejandrotobienne8220 Yes I do.. still working on it. I had a Raptor but now have a Vortech on it. The Vortech should be able to make a bit more power!
@@patonbike
What bracket did you use very interested with any info.
@@alejandrotobienne8220 I have a few videos on my youtube channel. It is based off of the Raptor bracket (power steering pump mount). The vortech is a lot heavier so I've had to add a little extra brace to keep it from moving. I'm running a dedicated off-the-front pulley now, with a heavy duty spring tensioner. It helps with belt slip a lot. th-cam.com/video/XjwD5S4C-lw/w-d-xo.html
Good video keep em coming.
Thanks!
Im just going with a 12mm in my 98’ Forester! NA Should be awesome 😎
Thx you the man
Why would you want to fit a bigger OEM pump on a car that originates from a model that was never offered here? I’ve spoken to my engine installer/tuner and he said to stay away from it but it’s fine to go from the 10mm to the 11mm.
Thanks for your question. It comes down to the build of the engine because of the tolerances, how the car is used, etc. Lots of things to consider. Take a look at this video where we go into more detail about the 12mm pump specifically:
th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html
And there is also this video:
th-cam.com/video/FcQajmmPOFU/w-d-xo.html
This is something that we seem to be digging into more and more lately.
Stay Tuned!
Great video!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
First if I'm running all internal stock but only upgraded a parallel fuel setup does it can effect the engine without changing the oil pump....does it consider a stock or modify engine.
Second if change to a 11mm or 12mm oil pump what do I gain with a parallel fuel setup and stock engine.
Thanks for your question. The parallel fuel system doesn't have any connection to the oiling system, so there aren't any benefits or drawbacks of the oil pump selection related to the fuel system.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
12 mm si quieres correr con el subaru sin miedo de girar metales por falta de lubricacion
Orale es l o que endo buscando . poner la 12 en el wrx 2004 . 10mm
if my impreza v5 can pnp 12mm also?
how can I choose the right pump for a EJ 257/205 hybrid build?
Basically, if you aren't changing the oiling system away from stock, stay with the stock 10mm oil pump. You would only need to possibly look at a larger volume pump if you are reducing the restriction on the oiling system (with loser bearing clearances for instance), or adding in other draws, which most likely you aren't.
In short, keep it simple and stay with the pump that came on your engine, and the single AVCS 2.5 turbo's.
good luck with the build!
Should I upgrade the oil pump if the turbo is upgraded? 05 LGT stock block, 20g turbo I've had 2 turbo failures on my LGT due to oil. I've upgraded the turbo oil lines but still oil starvation problems. Turbo MFG informed me the 05 LGT have a oiling problem in the cylinder head itself. Told me to run a line directly off oil filter sandwich plate. Thoughts?
Thanks for your question. Generally speaking, you should not need to upgrade the oil pump just because the turbo is upgraded.
Have you measured oil pressure at the turbo? Also, if you are still using the stock banjo bolt at the turbo for the oil feed, have you removed the filter? Subaru has a bulletin about that.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the response. Extremely odd situation. Found electrical tape stuffed inside the expansion tank. Specifically to the upper turbo coolant port… thanks to a family member. (Long story, I’m extremely pissed) fixed that, added a oil pressure gauge on the turbo line. Oil pressure is great. Engine is healthy. Turbo failure may be coolant system related. Going to test and flush oil and coolant system again and again.
You’ve been more than helpful. Thanks once again!
Hello and thank you for all your videos.
I am doing a complete build using an IAG STG 2 block. I believe they are using STD bearing clearances. The only thing that is diff an FP HTZ blue turbo. But it was required during install to use their specific oil feed line. Car is 05 STI but heads came off an 07 STI. I am using the 07 AVCS solenoids to match year of heads because of recommendations on other vids you put out to change all parts that may Be effected by metal contamination getting into them and not being able to clean them. Not sure if they are diff on amount of oil required than 05 solenoids. Thanks
Thanks for your question Robet. The 2007 STI still came with a 10mm pump, that wasn't changed by the factory until 2008 when dual AVCS got added. From our takling with IAG, they recommend the 11mm pump over the 10mm for their stage 2 blocks. You may want to contact IAG directly about that, and to get your build sheet so you can see what your tolerances are, but from our experience, that is what they will recommend.
Good luck with your build, and thanks for watching!
I'm looking at changing the cams, upping my RPM range, and going higher compression on a EJ253 motor. Would going to a 11 or 12mm pump benefit me or would a 10mm pump still work?
Thanks for your question. That is a little tough. I'd say that the size of the pump rotor would be more a function of your bearing clearances more than the cams and target red-line. The general principal to keep in mind is that the larger the rotor, the earlier the pump will cavitate. If you are going to run loser tolerances, then you would definitely want to run the larger pump.
I'd say that you would definitely want to monitor your oil pressure, and if you start to see your pressure fall in the upper-rpm range, don't go past that point, as there is a good chance that is where the pump is starting to fall our of efficiency.
If you haven't found it all ready, this would be worth a watch too:
th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Any idea where to get an oil pump for an EA82?
So if im understanding this correctly, I should leave the 11mm in my non AVCS single turbo version 6 ej207 with v7 block. I bought a 12mm pump a while back thinking It'd be great to have because im terrified of my first subaru build blowing up
Thanks for your question. If you are not seeing any issues with oil pressure, I would say that there would not be much if anything to gain by putting in a larger volume pump. And yes, it could potentially cause some issues because the relief valve would be open more.
If you haven't all ready, take a look at this video we did about oil pressure as well:
th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
subaru does have a 13mm oil pump, not sure if it went in an oem engine or just made it for replacements.
Thanks for your question Dave. There isn't a larger rotor pump than the 12mm that we are aware of.
Would you recomand the 12mm pump for a 500hp closedeck EJ257B with kelford 264° cams with upgrade turbo and higher RPM (7,500)
Thanks for your question. I'd say that it would come down to your bearing tolerances more than anything, but if they are at all loser than stock, the 12mm pump may be a good fit for sure.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Great videos! Keep them coming! I have a 04 fxt I which I'm putting a stock 08sti short block reusing my stock b25 heads. The only thing I'm changing, oiling wise, is using an aftermarket oil cooler with thermostatic valve. My question is, would the 11mm pump be a better choice since I'm increasing the length of the oil path? I'm just concerned because the cooler only works above 180degrees and until then, recircs back into the engine.
Thanks for your question! I'd first recommend contacting the manufacturer of the oil cooler you are using to see if they recommend a different pump.
Short of that, most likely you will not need a different oil pump just for adding the cooler as long as it has proper sized lines to the cooler.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your build!
So would just getting a dry sump be a better choice over all 3? I know a dry sump is more expensive. Are there things to look out for/consider for a dry sump application?
Thanks for your question. First, there is a lot going on with a dry sump system, but if you really need to control oil pressure, ensure that you are not starving your pick-up from cornering side-loads, the dry sump is the best solution.
We actually have a video with an overview about dry-sumps that goes into detail about their benefits. Here is a lik to that:
th-cam.com/video/StS0UKVhEGE/w-d-xo.html
Now, getting all this to work on a Subaru can be complicated, and require a lot of custom fab. But we have found, and now stock the Roger Clark Motorsport dry sump kit that is a full bolt-on solution, but it is missing lines and a tank for the moment for a left-hand drive car (but we are working on that too!) Here is a link to that kit:
www.flatironstuning.com/p-4157-roger-clark-motorsports-ej-dry-sump-pan-kit-cover-feed.aspx
So hopefully that will help and please feel to reach out to us directly if you have any more questions.
Thanks for watching!
FlatironsTuning that's amazing. Thank you for all the input. I'm building my 2011 STI and I'm considering it as a possibility but want to read up more on it.
Stay tuned, we may be diving into this a lot more in the near future :-)
Will an upgraded pump to a stock engine cause a p0021 over advance code?
Thanks for your question. It should not. The relief valve pressure in all of the pumps is about the same, which means that the peak pressure will be largely constant. You will just get there faster with the larger volume pump.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
I have a 2004 impreza 2.5. Should I just get the stock part number or might it benefit from high oil volume?
Thanks for your question. If your car is stock, most likely the best option is to stay with the pump that is correct for your car. This is because you aren't changing any of the restrictions in the oiling system, etc.
I hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
I bought and rebuilt a wrx ej205 that had rod knock and within 200 miles rod #3 locked up because of an oiling issue. Unknown to us the oil pump was scratched up very badly and needed to be replaced so we starved it. It has stock valve clearances however it has more aggressive cams, forged cp pistons, and custom bearings from a local machine shop. It had an 11mm oil pump however it had oil issues obviously and hovered at 8psi at idle and about 40 psi during driving at 3000rpm. Could you recommend the 12? Is there an issue with the oil pump pumping a larger volume than what’s in the oil pan? Could it starve without a bigger oil pan?
Thanks for your question. The volume of the pan should not be an issue. I would recommend that you take a look at this other video that we put together were we specifically take a look at oil pressure and the 12mm oil pump:
th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps, and Stay Tuned!
Hi there, not sure if I'd meet the need of 11mm given my builds not as aggressive as others. Do you think a stock head single avcs motor with a set of 4032 forged pistons with a ptw clearence of around 0.0025 in along with king rod and main bearings would benefit from an 11mm pump? I figure with larger clearances maybe its good idea. Thanks.
Thanks for your question. If you are running loser bearing clearances, then yes, you would most likely want to run a larger volume pump. If you are running stock bearing clearances, then you would likely be okay with the 10mm oil pump.
I would also mention that if you have seen any issues with your current setup where your oil pressure was lower than your target, that would be the other indicator that you may want to go with a larger volume pump.
Thanks for watching and I hope that helps.
@@FlatironsTuning thanks, appreciate the reply!
Can I put a 12 mm to my stock engine "10mm" wouldnt it be better
Thanks for your question. The short answer is I wouldn't recommend it. If your oiling tolerances are all stock, then you don't need the additional volume that the 12mm pump provides. If you put it on, the oil will spend a lot more time running through the relief valve.
I'd recommend going through this other video we put together specifically on this topic:
th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning awesome thanks so much flr the help . god bless you more and more
Question - I have a 99 EJ223 na engine I'm servicing and am considering replacing the oil pump. However I don't know what brand of aftermarket pump to get. Is there a brand that you guys prefer, or would a new OE pump be the best choice?
Thanks for your question. For oil pumps, we always recommend OEM.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
So how does a larger bearing clearance lower oil pressure? .. Theoretically the pressure should increase due to the larger surface area the oil is touching and being forced against.
Thanks for your question. In this context, larger means that there is more space between the rotating component (say the crank) and the bearing. Since there is more space for the oil to fill, that is what is reducing the restriction.
Think of it as taking a small straw out, and replacing it with a larger straw, and doing that on all of the bearings in the engine.
Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
So what about the the JDM EJ207 guys, will a 11mm pump be sufficient or 12mm
Thanks for the question. The EJ207 came with a 10mm pump up until it went to dual AVCS. At that point it went to an 11mm just like the USDM cars. So either of those should work fine assuming you are still using stock bearing clearances depending on which EJ207 you have.
Would you want a bigger pump woth an external oil cooler?
Thanks for your question. Just adding an oil cooler should not change the demand on the oiling system. Though that does depend slightly on the core that you are using and the overall design of the oil cooler.
Hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Any major downsides running 11 mm on older non avcs engine? I'm going to update my oil pump to have timing belt guide mounting points. Engine now has vf28 installed, but I plan to put oil-cooled td05 turbo on it. Is 11 mm a good idea or I better stick to 10mm?
Thanks for your question. If you are not changing any of the restrictions in the oiling system (like loser bearing clearances, etc.), then we typically say that you are better off staying with the pump that your engine was designed with.
The benefit of going to a larger pump is that you will build more pressure faster. But you will then also hit your relief-valve pressure faster as well.
If you are concerned about building pressure quickly, then you could certainly try a larger pump. We typically stick with the pump the engine was designed for, and it has worked well for us so far.
I hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning well, the car is mostly used on track or on highway driving there and back. I had couple of occasions of timing belt slipping a tooth or two, so I decided to replace timing belt and install timing belt guide and for that I need newer oil pump because my current one doesn't have mounts for the guard. I can't confirm the pump size at the moment, but I have two older ej20 cars and this one has twice as high oil pressure on hot idle than my other one (above 2 bar). This and plans to install oil - cooled turbo with bigger oil restrictor made me thinking that 11 mm pump will be ok for this application. The engine is early STi version 2 with older style shim-under-bucket lifters. I've seen some opinions that theese are closed deck blocks and it might have oil jets installed as well...
@@777MAV Gotcha. Yes, if you have an early block like that (EJ20G maybe?) and it has oil squirters, that is a draw on the oiling system for sure. In that case, a larger pump would not be a bad idea.
I'd definitely say see what you have in there, and if you have a 10mm pump and you are seeing low pressure, that is an indication that you may want to go up in size. 11mm, or maybe even 12mm.
@@FlatironsTuning yes, it's EJ20G, originally with early COP ignition, slanted inercooler and 5th injector in center of the manifold. But nowdays it's converted to newage coils, V4 STi(ej20K) manifold, intercooler and wiring and v3-4 plugin link ECU :)
Thank you!
I have a stock 2002 WRX except for an upgraded VF48 turbo. Running 17 psi. Do you think the stock oil pump is sufficient?
Thanks for your question! Since the VF 48 is basically a newer version of the VF39, which the STI came with and had a 10mm pump, the 10mm pump would be fine on your car as well assuming there are no other changes made to your oiling system.
Good luck with your build!
Thank you!
What a brilliant video, thanks for spending the time to create this...
A question however, my '04 JDM Impreza STI came with a 10mm oil pump and was recently replaced for a new modified 10mm oil pump (rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/28-rcm-10mm-modified-oil-pump).
Is the wrong pump fitted to the car, bare in mind it's a fairly standard car otherwise?
Thanks for the question Neil. That is an RCM modified oil pump. The volume is not changed, they have just increased the relief valve pressure. As long as you are still seeing the target pressure you want, it should be fine for your application.
error in video info
all non turbo ej25 motors and turbo ej20 non avcs got 10mm pumps
all ej255/ej257 got 11mm oil pumps
and all jdm motors duel avcs motors got 12mm oil pumps fimd it intresting how our usdm duel avcs ej257 never got the 12mm oil pump vs jdm ej20x/y duel avcs did
Early ej257s are 10mm, look at Subarus online part catalogue..
I was told they put 8 different engines in my 2010 Forester. Without the serial numbers, they couldnt even match simple stuff with my car. Luckly I had that info on my insurance paper in the car.