The difference between those two graphs is insane. Dry-sumps are definitely the way to go if you can afford it and your application actually requires it!
These guys are awesome! Especially the guy in the video I've called him several times and he is always willing to take the time to listen and help with parts choices or whatever. Great guys. And the website has everything! All good products!
The Killer B Oil Control Valve would be the ultimate fix for a wet sump system. What it has is a check valve that prevents oil from surging to the left or right head under sustained high G cornering. Simple yet very effective, and it's been proven. Less parts, less weight, and less parasitic loss.
We have seen that, and it is interesting for sure. Since the check valve is installed into the breather hoses on top of the valve covers, I think that it would help more to prevent oil from making its way up vent from the valve cover and then into your inlet, or your AOS, etc. Here is a link to the valve that was mentioned: www.killerbmotorsport.net/2002-2007-wrx-sti-oil-control-valve.html.html Thanks for the comment, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Yes sir, that is correct. It's common for oil to slosh into AOS' at high lateral Gs due to the design of the boxer engine. I'd say this would be the last hoorah before going full dry sump. Thanks for your informative videos. Useful as always!
@@robk5745 Killer B also has a new improved oil pickup and oil pan as we speak. Combined with the oil control valve, it should be the best wet sump configuration there is to date.
Good information! Been wanting to buy the killer bee kit for my stock 07 Sti just for peace of mind. I do plan on building the motor but that's not for a while.
Thanks for your question. We don't have anything available currently but we will definitely get the word out if/when we do. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Great vid! Why am I suddenly wanting to put a dry sump on my daily driven, never tracked, 400ish hp car? I know how irrational & impractical that is, guess this video is just done very well & went through it all very clearly. 🤣🤣
A good baffle is never a bad thing. On the street, since the side loads will most likely be less, the need is a little less. But if you are doing anything where the car will see hard cornering, then good baffles are a solid addition. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Fantastic video! I was surprised to learn the scavenge pumps generate enough vacuum to eliminate the PCV system. What are your thoughts on just using an Accusump setup to suppliment the factory pan?
For some situations, that can be a viable solution. It really depends a fair amount on the situations where you would be seeing an issue with oil pressure in the first place. An Accusump has a fixed volume (1-3 quarts), and it can only supplement oil in that quantity. So if you are just seeing small moments when the pressure goes down, an Accusump would most likely work. But if you are doing a lot of road course racing, and you will see situations where you have one high-g corner followed by another, then something like the dry-sump would be a more reliable solution than the Accusump most likely. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Good points. I've always wondered what the Accusump "recharge" rate would be going down a straightway and if that would be enough to keep the Accusump topped off for the next lap around of high g sweepers. Perhaps a higher volume 11mm oil pump would assist the recharge rate for the Accusump. Thanks for the videos!
@@Microbrewhound Yes, there are a lot of variables there. Most cars will be fine with either the stock oiling system, or an oiling system that has a baffled pan, maybe slightly higher volume. If you go past the point where that is effective, the best solution would be something like a dry-sump, which is now much easier to install now that there is something like this kit. But I think that there are some applications where an Accusump would be sufficient. It just isn't as comprehensive a solution as a dry-sump.
@@FlatironsTuning I need to find some people like you guys in my area. I moved from the West Coast to the East coast for work a few years ago and it is hard to meet new people when you spend so much of your day in a conference room, or behind a desk. I especially like the real technical stuff since I used to be a dealer tech some time ago, and have worked in electrical systems (communications, etc.) for the better part of 2 decades. In a nut shell I'm a total gear head, and get bored with the day to day grind. Don't get me wrong I like my work, but I mean, race car what else is there to say.
First off, thanks for all your videos...They are the most helpful and informative I have found. I do have a question, I plan on running an oil accumulator on my engine build to pre-pressurize the engine oil before start up. With a dry sump system would that still be helpful or would it be unnecessary? I thinking with the extra scavenging of a dry sump it might be an even better idea to pre-pressurize the system. Thanks again.
Thanks for your question. With a dry-sump system, you can actually pressurize the oiling system pretty easily. You just need to spin the pump, and that will do the trick. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Man that would have been nice to have when I had my race car!! I got in touch with tony rigoli racing and they helped us make our own but that seems so much easier
There are now a couple of complete dry sump options for Subarus. We like the Roger Clark kit the best. It really is the last missing piece to solve many of the oiling issues these cars have in motorsports applications. And it is great now that you don't have to piece together a kit and solve problems like the oil pan and oil pump cover. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
It has worked well for us so far, and RCM has used this kit on many, many cars. There is a lot to getting a dry-sump kit to work properly, so if you are interested, definitely take a look at our other videos on the subject. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. There are a number of cars that come from the factory with a dry sump oiling system. So yes, street cars can run dry sumps. But there is a big difference when it comes to installing this kind of system on a car that wasn't designed for it initially. From our experience, I would say that this would not make sense to put on a street car in the majority of cases. There are a number of compromises that would not make sense on a street car. One of the main ones being the large tank, and the noise that comes from it. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Do they have a data log showing the difference in parasitic horsepower draw or freeing up either way I have seen data logs where on say small block GM it freed up close to 15 horsepower running a dry sum is that the case or is it the opposite with the smaller Subaru
We have not seen a graph specific to Subaru's, but I do believe that because you can improve power on other platforms, there would be a point where there would be power gains from running the dry sump. This is especially true if you can optimize the amount of vacuum that you are pulling with the scavenging pumps compared to the power required to turn the pump. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. The IAG pan is definitely an interesting design. It seems like a bit of a combination of the RCM pan and the Killer-B pan. From what we have heard from our customers that tried this pan out so far, the results are positive. Once we have the chance to run one on one of the cars that we work with, we should know more. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning would you say that I'll be good with a full killer B wet-sump setup? The car will be mostly street driven with occasional track time. I have a fully built IAG engine going in and I would hate to spin a bearing, especially when it could've been prevented. It seems like these motors always have oiling issues... I'm trying to correct all of the common problems before I start beating on her. And if the engine goes, I don't want it to be from lack of oiling, ya know?
@@tonyregalado7281 Thanks for your question. I'd say get the engine broken in, and since it sounds like you are running a new set-up at the track, build up to your full power and full track duration slowly. There are a ton of factors at play on track with the oiling system. I'd definitely monitor your oil pressure, and try to make sure that you are never running out of oil pressure. If you are running an AOS, that is something to monitor as well. If you get close to, or to your target of time on track with max power and you are not seeing any issues with blow-by or oil consumption, then you should be okay. We just put up a video detailing how useful crankcase data can be, and that might be something else to watch: th-cam.com/video/HAvxjSdQsXI/w-d-xo.html We will have some first hand experience with the RCM Dry sump, and hopefully a track test in the next 2 months or so, so Stay Tuned. Thanks for watching, and best of luck with your build!
Thanks for this informative video. I work at a private racetrack & get to track my 2011 STI as much as I want. Fortunately we don't have any long curves. I hope I won't need more than a good wetsump pan when I do a built engine.
How good are dry sump pumps for repetitive cold starts like that of a street track car have 650 whp atm and am having less than desirable things happen in data logs And was thinking a dry sump with oil heating rod to preheat oil when convenient but wouldn’t be always
Thanks for your question. We have not had issues as long as we are starting the car every few days. The other nice feature of the dry-sump (with this Subaru configuration for instance) is that we can simply remove the belt and spinn the pump to prime the oiling system. that generally only needs to be done after the car has sat for an extended period. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
If you are using the cover feed option, that lets you retain the stock filter/location then a good quality filter should suffice. We like the Tokyoroki filters from Subaru. Remember that you aren't necessarily increasing pressure much over what the factory target would be. You are just modifying the oiling system so that you can consistently keep that oil pressure going into the engine, even under hard driving conditions. If you are going with a remote-mounted filter, then there are a number of other options out there. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Absolutely! Here it is: www.flatironstuning.com/roger-clark-4-stage-dry-sump-oiling-system We have put this on our race car, and we have some content coming out about it here shortly.
@@FlatironsTuning It isnt yet. I actually ordered and commisioned RCM to build me the 5 stage system before they even began selling them as a kit publicly. I had delays getting a local CNC shop to perform CDB and main pinning, which took about a yr longer than anticipated. Then i had some issues with another machine shop. They performed a line hone. But forgot to tighten up the case bolts when they honed it... Need less to say, the block is foobar. And i havent completed the build since. Its hard to keep motivated when everytime you go to get machine work fone, it comes back fucked, or doesnt even come back at all. Although i do have another block now. Which has been CDB and had 10 x dowel pins along the main tunnel. Finding time to complete the car is difficult with my work schedule. And having the maching setbacks discussed above really kills your motivation and enthusiasm.
@@BramBiesiekierski Sorry to hear that the build hasn't gone smoothly. That can definitely be frustrating, but I'm glad to hear that you are taking your time and working through the issues. Hopefully the majority of your troubles are behind you now, and you will be able to get your car up and running. When you do get the oil pump installed, please do check back in about how it works!
Thanks for your question. Yes, this should fit the earlier EJ engines. If you can open up a ticket on our site and let us know the exact engine or model of car that you would like to fit this to, we can give you more specific details about your options. www.flatironstuning.com Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
How is the system vented? If you are sucking air/oil/misc gasses out of the engine, and the oil part goes into the external tank, what happens to the misc gases?
Thanks for your question. In a dry-sump oiling system (which is I believe what you are referring to specifically), the scavenge pumps send the oil and crankcase gasses to your external tank. And you do need to then vent that tank because you now have to deal with those gasses there. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Hey thanks for the video! I need a recommendation I have a 2011 Subaru wrx that I’m planning to take the track at least 1 time a month. It’s only has a stage 1 tune on it from Cobb. Do you recommend upgrading the oil pan and oil pick up or should I be okay with my stock one. Thank you.
Thanks for your question. I think that you will be fine with the stock pan. Remember that we got about 3,000 track miles on our first engine with everything stock. If you aren't going to add much if any power, the thing to pay attention to is cornering speed/g-force. If you are running R-Compound tires, and this is more true the wider a tire you are running, that might be the point where a baffled pan, or at least a baffle plate would be helpful. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Correct. With the RCM Dry-Sump oiling system, this plate replaces the stock pan. And with the scavenge pumps, they will send all of the oil and crank-case gasses to the external oil tank, so that removes the need for an AOS or catch can. You will need to deal with those pressures at the tank. This is typically done with a breather tank. I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
so theoretically......... if i wanted to bullet proof my sti and make it as reliable as a corolla....... and money isn't an issue.... i should buy a dry sump system........... **opens Wallet**
Thanks for your question. For a race car, it is the most comprehensive solution to improve the oiling system. We are running one on our Pikes Peak car, and the results are really good so far. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for that Charles. There is definitely a lot going on here. If it helps, please reach out to us with the live chat on our site, and we'll do our best to help. Unless you are talking about all of the different baffling options, in which case, yes there are a lot to chose from :-) Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
The difference between those two graphs is insane. Dry-sumps are definitely the way to go if you can afford it and your application actually requires it!
Totally agree.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
These guys are awesome! Especially the guy in the video I've called him several times and he is always willing to take the time to listen and help with parts choices or whatever. Great guys. And the website has everything! All good products!
That is a fantastic comment! Thanks for watching, and glad that we could help!
Stay Tuned!
The Killer B Oil Control Valve would be the ultimate fix for a wet sump system. What it has is a check valve that prevents oil from surging to the left or right head under sustained high G cornering. Simple yet very effective, and it's been proven. Less parts, less weight, and less parasitic loss.
Sounds good to me.
We have seen that, and it is interesting for sure. Since the check valve is installed into the breather hoses on top of the valve covers, I think that it would help more to prevent oil from making its way up vent from the valve cover and then into your inlet, or your AOS, etc.
Here is a link to the valve that was mentioned:
www.killerbmotorsport.net/2002-2007-wrx-sti-oil-control-valve.html.html
Thanks for the comment, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Yes sir, that is correct. It's common for oil to slosh into AOS' at high lateral Gs due to the design of the boxer engine. I'd say this would be the last hoorah before going full dry sump. Thanks for your informative videos. Useful as always!
didnt know this existed, thanks for the comment.
@@robk5745 Killer B also has a new improved oil pickup and oil pan as we speak. Combined with the oil control valve, it should be the best wet sump configuration there is to date.
Those charts though, science!!!
Yes!
Graph with a GPS overlay of a track and oil pressure would be super interesting... to see exactly how hard cornering and WOT pulls ect affect it
Good information! Been wanting to buy the killer bee kit for my stock 07 Sti just for peace of mind. I do plan on building the motor but that's not for a while.
Thank you for the information！Do you have the dry oil pan for FA20 also？
Thanks for your question. We don't have anything available currently but we will definitely get the word out if/when we do.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Subaru engine bearings be like: The oil is lava.
hahahah
Best Subaru Videos hands down, my go to other than the good old Haynes manual but really good stuff, keep them coming.
Thanks for that comment, we really appreciate it!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
You guys are the best Subaru content, thank you for the video
Thanks very much, and glad that the channel has been helpful. Pass it on if you can!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thx for great explanation.
I saw this system on subi performance channel and ( until now ) I didn't understand it.
Great vid! Why am I suddenly wanting to put a dry sump on my daily driven, never tracked, 400ish hp car? I know how irrational & impractical that is, guess this video is just done very well & went through it all very clearly. 🤣🤣
Another great video with lots of good information! Keep it up guys!!
Thanks Allen!
Thank you! Yes I found it very helpful. I’m so excited because with this setup I get to keep my AC. Other kits run off the compress pulley location.
Great vid! Thanks for putting all this information out. I really enjoy it all.
Great vid and informative, tho pretty sure that RCM bought the original design from zen performance who did all the figuring out originally
Would you need these baffles for street car? And weekend drag racing? Car will be making upwards of 600whp on STI.
A good baffle is never a bad thing. On the street, since the side loads will most likely be less, the need is a little less. But if you are doing anything where the car will see hard cornering, then good baffles are a solid addition.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Great video! Thanks! This is the system I'll need when building the 2019 WRX,
That RCM timing belt tensioner setup is on my list. I just need to order all my oem stuff first as I’m buying everything new.
We really like that tensioner. We do have kits with the belt, and other idlers if that helps :-)
Thanks, and Stay Tuned!
FlatironsTuning I saw in the product description it’s meant for high revving engines. Is it not suitable for street cars?
@@OggaDugga Curious about this too.
@@OggaDugga Just to be clear, are you asking about the HG tensioner? Or the Dry sump?
FlatironsTuning the tensioner. I already got a KB kit on standby.
Fantastic video! I was surprised to learn the scavenge pumps generate enough vacuum to eliminate the PCV system. What are your thoughts on just using an Accusump setup to suppliment the factory pan?
For some situations, that can be a viable solution. It really depends a fair amount on the situations where you would be seeing an issue with oil pressure in the first place. An Accusump has a fixed volume (1-3 quarts), and it can only supplement oil in that quantity. So if you are just seeing small moments when the pressure goes down, an Accusump would most likely work.
But if you are doing a lot of road course racing, and you will see situations where you have one high-g corner followed by another, then something like the dry-sump would be a more reliable solution than the Accusump most likely.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Good points. I've always wondered what the Accusump "recharge" rate would be going down a straightway and if that would be enough to keep the Accusump topped off for the next lap around of high g sweepers. Perhaps a higher volume 11mm oil pump would assist the recharge rate for the Accusump. Thanks for the videos!
@@Microbrewhound Yes, there are a lot of variables there. Most cars will be fine with either the stock oiling system, or an oiling system that has a baffled pan, maybe slightly higher volume.
If you go past the point where that is effective, the best solution would be something like a dry-sump, which is now much easier to install now that there is something like this kit.
But I think that there are some applications where an Accusump would be sufficient. It just isn't as comprehensive a solution as a dry-sump.
Such an under rated channel. Knocked out of the park yet again. Have you considered some Dubstep to get the views up? (That was a joke please don't)
Awesome comment. Thanks for that Henry.
Very much appreciated.
@@FlatironsTuning I need to find some people like you guys in my area. I moved from the West Coast to the East coast for work a few years ago and it is hard to meet new people when you spend so much of your day in a conference room, or behind a desk.
I especially like the real technical stuff since I used to be a dealer tech some time ago, and have worked in electrical systems (communications, etc.) for the better part of 2 decades.
In a nut shell I'm a total gear head, and get bored with the day to day grind. Don't get me wrong I like my work, but I mean, race car what else is there to say.
@@henryv.3272 Thanks for that. We'll do our best to keep the content flowing :-)
First off, thanks for all your videos...They are the most helpful and informative I have found. I do have a question, I plan on running an oil accumulator on my engine build to pre-pressurize the engine oil before start up. With a dry sump system would that still be helpful or would it be unnecessary? I thinking with the extra scavenging of a dry sump it might be an even better idea to pre-pressurize the system. Thanks again.
Thanks for your question. With a dry-sump system, you can actually pressurize the oiling system pretty easily. You just need to spin the pump, and that will do the trick.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Great video as always guys.
Thanks Keith! Stay Tuned!
Please do a video about Subaru tuning , AFR , lambda vs MAF etc. !
Thanks for the comment Bruce. I'll add it to our list :-)
Thanks for watching, and Stay Tuned!
thank you for sharing!💯
Absolutely! Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Man that would have been nice to have when I had my race car!! I got in touch with tony rigoli racing and they helped us make our own but that seems so much easier
There are now a couple of complete dry sump options for Subarus. We like the Roger Clark kit the best. It really is the last missing piece to solve many of the oiling issues these cars have in motorsports applications. And it is great now that you don't have to piece together a kit and solve problems like the oil pan and oil pump cover.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
That RCM kits looks great, but that would make me nervous running it off of the idler pulley instead of the crank pulley.
It has worked well for us so far, and RCM has used this kit on many, many cars.
There is a lot to getting a dry-sump kit to work properly, so if you are interested, definitely take a look at our other videos on the subject.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning I am building my own kit now ... you are right, it is harder than people think. Thanks!
Great video! Out of curiosity can a dry sump system be installed on a street car or is this strictly a race car part?
Thanks for your question. There are a number of cars that come from the factory with a dry sump oiling system. So yes, street cars can run dry sumps. But there is a big difference when it comes to installing this kind of system on a car that wasn't designed for it initially.
From our experience, I would say that this would not make sense to put on a street car in the majority of cases. There are a number of compromises that would not make sense on a street car. One of the main ones being the large tank, and the noise that comes from it.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the technical info😎👍
Can you use one of those to improve performance for 2.5 liter Outbacks ?
Thank you for the information! I appreciate it.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing and making this video.
Do they have a data log showing the difference in parasitic horsepower draw or freeing up either way I have seen data logs where on say small block GM it freed up close to 15 horsepower running a dry sum is that the case or is it the opposite with the smaller Subaru
We have not seen a graph specific to Subaru's, but I do believe that because you can improve power on other platforms, there would be a point where there would be power gains from running the dry sump. This is especially true if you can optimize the amount of vacuum that you are pulling with the scavenging pumps compared to the power required to turn the pump.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
How do you guys like the new IAG pan? Looks beautiful
Thanks for your question. The IAG pan is definitely an interesting design. It seems like a bit of a combination of the RCM pan and the Killer-B pan. From what we have heard from our customers that tried this pan out so far, the results are positive.
Once we have the chance to run one on one of the cars that we work with, we should know more.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Does Flatirons have an oil pressure gauge that I can use on my 2022 WRX?
That would all come down to where the sensor would sit. We are slammed this week with the holiday, but I'll see what I can find.
Stay Tuned!
Awesome video!
Thanks very much for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning would you say that I'll be good with a full killer B wet-sump setup? The car will be mostly street driven with occasional track time. I have a fully built IAG engine going in and I would hate to spin a bearing, especially when it could've been prevented. It seems like these motors always have oiling issues... I'm trying to correct all of the common problems before I start beating on her. And if the engine goes, I don't want it to be from lack of oiling, ya know?
@@tonyregalado7281 Thanks for your question. I'd say get the engine broken in, and since it sounds like you are running a new set-up at the track, build up to your full power and full track duration slowly. There are a ton of factors at play on track with the oiling system. I'd definitely monitor your oil pressure, and try to make sure that you are never running out of oil pressure. If you are running an AOS, that is something to monitor as well.
If you get close to, or to your target of time on track with max power and you are not seeing any issues with blow-by or oil consumption, then you should be okay.
We just put up a video detailing how useful crankcase data can be, and that might be something else to watch:
th-cam.com/video/HAvxjSdQsXI/w-d-xo.html
We will have some first hand experience with the RCM Dry sump, and hopefully a track test in the next 2 months or so, so Stay Tuned.
Thanks for watching, and best of luck with your build!
Thank you for this video
Thanks for this informative video. I work at a private racetrack & get to track my 2011 STI as much as I want. Fortunately we don't have any long curves. I hope I won't need more than a good wetsump pan when I do a built engine.
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
How good are dry sump pumps for repetitive cold starts like that of a street track car have 650 whp atm and am having less than desirable things happen in data logs
And was thinking a dry sump with oil heating rod to preheat oil when convenient but wouldn’t be always
Thanks for your question. We have not had issues as long as we are starting the car every few days. The other nice feature of the dry-sump (with this Subaru configuration for instance) is that we can simply remove the belt and spinn the pump to prime the oiling system. that generally only needs to be done after the car has sat for an extended period.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning that pretty much answered everything perfectly
@@diytutorialsandmore9804 Glad I could help!
What kind of oil filters should be used? Many claim to be sport quality.
If you are using the cover feed option, that lets you retain the stock filter/location then a good quality filter should suffice. We like the Tokyoroki filters from Subaru.
Remember that you aren't necessarily increasing pressure much over what the factory target would be. You are just modifying the oiling system so that you can consistently keep that oil pressure going into the engine, even under hard driving conditions.
If you are going with a remote-mounted filter, then there are a number of other options out there.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
Do you have a link for the dry sump system?
Absolutely! Here it is:
www.flatironstuning.com/roger-clark-4-stage-dry-sump-oiling-system
We have put this on our race car, and we have some content coming out about it here shortly.
I have a RCM 5 stage kit.
That is awesome! How is it working for you?
@@FlatironsTuning
It isnt yet. I actually ordered and commisioned RCM to build me the 5 stage system before they even began selling them as a kit publicly.
I had delays getting a local CNC shop to perform CDB and main pinning, which took about a yr longer than anticipated.
Then i had some issues with another machine shop. They performed a line hone. But forgot to tighten up the case bolts when they honed it... Need less to say, the block is foobar. And i havent completed the build since. Its hard to keep motivated when everytime you go to get machine work fone, it comes back fucked, or doesnt even come back at all.
Although i do have another block now. Which has been CDB and had 10 x dowel pins along the main tunnel.
Finding time to complete the car is difficult with my work schedule. And having the maching setbacks discussed above really kills your motivation and enthusiasm.
@@BramBiesiekierski what'd you give for the stage 5 kit?
@@Jessersadler
Both kidneys and a testicle.
@@BramBiesiekierski Sorry to hear that the build hasn't gone smoothly. That can definitely be frustrating, but I'm glad to hear that you are taking your time and working through the issues.
Hopefully the majority of your troubles are behind you now, and you will be able to get your car up and running. When you do get the oil pump installed, please do check back in about how it works!
no dipstick? too much pressure at the crankcase for the dry oil sump setup?
Will this work on ej 2.2 from the 90s???
Thanks for your question. Yes, this should fit the earlier EJ engines. If you can open up a ticket on our site and let us know the exact engine or model of car that you would like to fit this to, we can give you more specific details about your options.
www.flatironstuning.com
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning thanks!🥳🥳🥳🥳
How is the system vented? If you are sucking air/oil/misc gasses out of the engine, and the oil part goes into the external tank, what happens to the misc gases?
Thanks for your question. In a dry-sump oiling system (which is I believe what you are referring to specifically), the scavenge pumps send the oil and crankcase gasses to your external tank. And you do need to then vent that tank because you now have to deal with those gasses there.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Okay, thanks.
Great vid
Hey thanks for the video! I need a recommendation I have a 2011 Subaru wrx that I’m planning to take the track at least 1 time a month. It’s only has a stage 1 tune on it from Cobb. Do you recommend upgrading the oil pan and oil pick up or should I be okay with my stock one. Thank you.
Thanks for your question. I think that you will be fine with the stock pan.
Remember that we got about 3,000 track miles on our first engine with everything stock.
If you aren't going to add much if any power, the thing to pay attention to is cornering speed/g-force. If you are running R-Compound tires, and this is more true the wider a tire you are running, that might be the point where a baffled pan, or at least a baffle plate would be helpful.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Do you reuse the OEM timing cover with the RCM Dry sump?
You certainly can. You just need to cut a hole for the cogged drive pulley.
Thanks for the question and Stay Tuned!
And the purpose of cover then will bi off
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Liked and subscribed
Much appreciated and Stay Tuned!
So if you get this dry sump kit, you don't need a better pan with baffles or a catch-can/AOS?
Correct. With the RCM Dry-Sump oiling system, this plate replaces the stock pan. And with the scavenge pumps, they will send all of the oil and crank-case gasses to the external oil tank, so that removes the need for an AOS or catch can.
You will need to deal with those pressures at the tank. This is typically done with a breather tank.
I hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
wish i could subscribe multiple times
Thanks! We wish you could too, but thank you for subscribing!
I don't understand why these are so freaking expensive. I could build another engine at that cost.
Good video discontinued now
so theoretically......... if i wanted to bullet proof my sti and make it as reliable as a corolla....... and money isn't an issue.... i should buy a dry sump system........... **opens Wallet**
Thanks for your question. For a race car, it is the most comprehensive solution to improve the oiling system. We are running one on our Pikes Peak car, and the results are really good so far.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
whoa.... vocal fry!
This is baffling to me..
Thanks for that Charles. There is definitely a lot going on here. If it helps, please reach out to us with the live chat on our site, and we'll do our best to help.
Unless you are talking about all of the different baffling options, in which case, yes there are a lot to chose from :-)
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!