Yep, we used a new Lapel Mike. The Audio is clear, but you need to turn it up. We'll see if we can get it working better for the next video. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I have an 11MM on my EJ25 with non avcs heads and borg warner turbo. It sits at 100 psi when cold but settles to 70 psi hot at 3000 rpm and about 35psi hot idle. I'm pretty happy with those numbers. 10w30 synthetic
Currently running a 12mm on an ej207 with a borg warner turbo. Seeing similar oil pressure numbers but also burning oil. It's a fresh rebuild, still breaking in actually. Any suggestions?
@@Bittertokken check spark plugs for oil. Oily plugs would mean it's either rings or valve seals or poor crankcase venting. Just finding where it's leaking in the system
Man that IAG stage 2 works wonders for my build. Cold idle is 100+ psi warmed up is 80psi after many many pulls still at around 65/70. As well as at 8k+ rpm I’m pulling around 85psi! On vr1 10/30.
I've seen conflicting information on this front, so maybe I'll have to do a bit more digging. My recollection is that the 12mm pump came on the TT Legacy, but I'll see if I can find more information. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning The Legacy with twin turbos were the older models and they had a 10mm pump and no AVCS. The only other newer model twin turbo Legacy was the S401, but again 10mm pump with AVCS. As far as I know the 12mm pump wasn't used on any factory car. 11mm pump was used for the demands on the quad AVCS. If I need to correct this I will. Thanks for keeping things going guys.
It was on the EG33 ironically, but with a slightly different cover. I'd swear that I found the application of this pump for the TT Legacy at one point. Going to have to do a little digging.
@@FvD714 cutting into the subframe no biggie, just a trim. apparently a flywheel bearing makes a great spacer. but shortening the tie rod ends just right so that one has threads to play with concerns me. also the apparently needed upgraded steering pump is too costly for my budget.
Hi, I am in process of rebuilding my JDM EJ207 (from a V6 GC8, not the closed deck) and I am using the nitrited crankshaft from the newest Sti. The original crankshaft has only one oil hole but the new version has 2. Because of it I decided to use the 11mm oil pump but now I am not sure if it was the best option. I also have the IAG oil pan and pick up (+ ~1.3 liters of oil if comparing with the OEM GC pan). Any advice? Should I go back to the 10mm even using the new crankshaft with 2 oil holes? I am just an enthusiast working in my own Subaru, so all knowledge I have came from guys like you over the internet. By the way, thanks for the amazing content you provide us here!
I built a v7 207 with a v10 nitrated crank that I also had WPC treated. I chose the 12mm with 2 extra shims(since you have to break timing if you want to change shim count figured having a slightly higher valve pressure release would be easier to deal with via oil weights than going back and adding more shims if I needed them) I'm running looser tolerances. (0.002 main and rod) with 10w40 I get 200kpa(~30psi) at a HOT idle(80-100c) and from 3-8k rpm it's around 490-500kpa( (80-100c ) but generally I dont see my oil temps go above 70c on a daily basis only when Im really pushing it will it creep up after sitting at idle for awhile after putting some heat into the system. Running a moroso aluminum road racing oil pan with 5qt capacity. Need to Optimize on my cooling system as it starts becoming the issue for me during extended periods of 6-8krpm
This video is as close as I could find for my question. I have a 14’ outback with 200k miles. Non-Turbo , still has original chain. My issue is the oil light would come on after driving long distances in hot weather. I put a new sensor in and that solved the problem for 6 months. Now I get a flash of oil light every once in a while. Engine acts just fine. This is a daily driver. Here are my question, What do you guys call my engine, do you think changing it is worth the effort?
Ob1, I missed this vid. I'm glad I found it, do you believe WPC is effective in a part like this? Would you recommend porting where the oil is feed to the oil filter on the block?
Yep, totally agree. There is so little information I'd actually say that this isn't really meaningful data. At a minimum we need to know the weight of oil used and the temperature during the test was the same. Most likely it was, but it is important information. The biggest piece, as you mention is the pressure. We really need to know what the pressure readings were for the 3 tests. It is a good start, but it would really help to know more details about how the tests were performed. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Agreed - I was wondering the same thing regarding the pressure that the tests were run at. The results there could vary significantly between flow rate under no pressure or load and just free flowing, pump out of engine vs. something like 80PSI reflecting more of a real world condition.
Hi! I'm building an EJ257 (all new in box) with EJ255 heads. I'd like to run high turbo pressures later, what pump should I select for this build? (The original pump would be a 10mm). I'm also told the OEM headgaskets are the way to go (the old coated gaskets failed a lot, the new revised ones are apparently considered reliable). My only concern with headgasket is which model to match the EJ257 to EJ255 head.
It would all depend on your oil clearances, personally I’d run the 11mm pump if stock or slightly looser bearing clearances. Also the new grimspeed head gasket is nice. RCM use to make a solid gasket back in the day I’d run 35psi with a arp headstuds never once had an issue.
Thanks for your question. For the head gaskets, you pick those based on the cylinder heads. You need the ones for the 07+ heads. For the pump, if everything else is stock (shortblock, etc.), I'd say that you should be okay with the 10mm pump. But it is always a good idea to put an oil pressure and oil temp gauge on so you can keep an eye on what is going on. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
hey guys, I bought a subaru wrx from 03 (blobeye) and I'm quite scared of the car giving me troubles even tho it passed all my "tests" I sometimes see some white smoke, I get instantly worried. I wanna mod the car in order to have it being more reilable, I'm looking forward to get an air-oil separator I know you have a video on what to mod to get it to be more reliable, but I would like to know, what type of things should I be aware of, in order to keep my beast running for a life. I've 118.000KM on this car, and I've owned it for 1 month now
I'd definitely recommend going through these two videos: th-cam.com/video/pXQdgxHWFwk/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/8b7tmjJFvoo/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
I’ve got a 154k mile ej205 I’m about to pull from my 03 wrx. Having back pressure head gasket symptoms after over boosting during tuning. I’m gathering parts and it was suggested that I do an oil pump upgrade/replacement. After watching your video I’m inclined to think the RCM 10mm would be plenty. I’m also looking at an sti pan and upgraded pickup. Any reason the RCM 10mm pump would be inadequate? I doubt I’ll do much more than a vf or ported 16g size turbo with this block. Or should I just skip the oil pump altogether? Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and thanks for the question. For a lightly modified car as described, the 10mm pump should be fine. With that many miles, I would definitely say that a new pump is a good idea. Good luck with the rebuild, and let us know if you need anything else. Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuningso I was on your website last night shopping for what I need but I did run into a questioning point when I started looking at gasket kits. As it seems the early wrx kits 02-05 vary a bit and I didn’t know what to order. I also put the sti oil pan, stock pick up and dipstick kit you guys offer. I was wondering if that’s available with an upgraded pick up? I sent you guys an email, but being the weekend and a holiday one at that I figured I’d ask here too. Thanks a bunch!
Question, what if you say a Ej205 avcs stock bearing clearance, and your doing an oil cooler upgrade, say a 10 row oil cooler would you need a oil pump upgrade from a 10mm to 11mm. Or 10mm is sufficient enough in that scenario.
Thanks for your question. Adding a cooler should not increase any resistance in the oiling system, so you should not need a larger oil pump just because you add an oil cooler. But that being said, you will want to monitor your oil pressure before and then after install of the oil cooler to make sure that you are getting correct oil pressure after the install. If you aren't seeing correct oil pressure, that is typically an issue with the line size or overall design of the cooler, so you would want to correct that issue or remove the cooler if you aren't getting sufficient pressure. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Hello Flatirons team. Since most oil coolers induce a slight pressure loss, as negligible as it may be, is there a way to compensate for that couple of psi loss? Is this something to worry about if the cars sees regular track use?
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. Generally speaking, they are a fairly reliable design. However, companies like Roger Clark Motorsports use a re-designed relief valve in their pumps that is designed to function better. I would recommend getting a measure of your oil pressure as a start to see if you are getting unusually high readings. I will mention that the best place to start may be to put on a new filter to make sure that the filter is functioning properly. I suspect that your oil pressure would have to be fairly high to cause an issue on the filter seal itself. I hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. I'd say that was best covered in this video: th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html&feature=shares If you have any questions after going through that, let me know. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Might get flamed for this I have a ej251 I believe(na) in a 2.5rs 2005, was wondering if stepping up to a wrx/sti oem oil pump would be beneficial for the car? Just a DD
What’s the power/torque limit on a Stock EJ255 block with 10mm oil pump? Single avcs, d25 heads. I have a new 11mm pump on hand but having major doubts whether to install it. Thanks
For the stock block, 350 whp is typically the point where you can make good power and keep the engine reliable. We have gone over 400 whp with our race car for a while now, but I wouldn't recommend that for a street car. It works for us because we are on race gas and now E85, and very low miles (though they are hard miles). Hope that helps and thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
Thanks for your question. I would not say that is a common failure. But we have seen a couple of instances where the shim can cause issues. It is typically ain issue with low oil pressure, not high pressure. Related, we have seen a few isolated issues with the relief valve not moving as easily as it should that caused issues with pressure as well (again on the low side typically), which is why I believe that RCM and IAG both chose to address the relief valve. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
I have a STOCK 20 sti. it still is under warranty! I DD my car to and from work and around town. My work commute is 35 minutes on the highway @70mph about 3000rpm in 6th gear. Qurstion: is the constant 3k rpm hard or bad for my motor? I love the car and plan on doing the full laundry list of reliable mods when the subaru warranty runs out and my extended kicks in from the dealer I bought the car from. They have already told me I can do anything as long as I don't touch A/F... 😩 I plan on building a motor once the car is paid off but until then want to keep my motor as healthy as possible. I'm very strict with Maintenance as I know lack off is one of the biggest killers of boxers engines. Sorry for the story just trying to paint a full picture. Thanks for any input.
Thanks for your question. No driving on the highway isn't bad for your car at all. Stay up on your maintenance and you should be fine for years to come :-) Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I'm intending to do a destroked EJ255/257 with EJ20K heads and forged internals, around 8.5:1CR and about 1.5 bars of boost. I'm looking at the OEM pumps, which would be ideal for me?
Thanks for your question. I'd first recommend confirming that you can bolt an EJ20K head up to the EJ257 shortblock. Headgasket choice there may be difficult, and I also believe that they have somewhat small combustion chambers so piston choice for that compression ratio may be difficult as well. I'd say that it may be best to use a head that is a known quantity and designed to work with that block. From there, if you aren't using AVCS, you will be fine with the 10mm or 11mm oil pumps I'd think. But it will be best to monitor oil pressure to be sure if you can. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Manley makes destroker pistons, and I'll be chamber matching the heads. If I were to change heads I would also need to do the engine and ECU wiring, which will increase the price too much. I would use stock EJ25 turbo head gaskets, but is there a reason the heads wouldn't fit?
@@Rosteripulla The EJ20K heads are for the factory closed deck EJ20, so the coolant passages are different, and I believe they also use a thinner head gasket compared to the semi-closed headgaskets. Also, double check, but I believe that the Manley destroker pistons move the wrist pin down to allow you to use a standard length rod which is not ideal for a de-stroker. You would ideally want to use those longer tods to get a better ratio. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
sir, my motor has larger clearances 0.020 rod main, dual ball bearing turbo, oil squirters,15w50 motor oil, single avcs using 11mm pump, idle is too low 14-20psi , cold at 75psi .. what is your recommendation? switch to 12mm pump or shim 11mm pump?
Thanks for your question. What weight oil are you running, and what pan and pump? As suggested, a pan with better baffling may be a good place to start. Also, is the 4 bar hot oil pressure? Thanks for the question and Stay Tuned!
Thank you for reply . Im using 10W50 300V engine oil . Stock EJ207 10MM pump, Killer B oil pick and baffle plate. And yes 4 bar pressure hot oil pressure.
Do you know what your peak oil temp is? If your temp is not getting much over say 230 deg. F, it may be worth going with something like the Killer-B Super-G pan, and maybe stepping up to the 11mm pump.
love how iag used junk graph to show flow but left out an entire section of data on it the oilpump flow values lol i smell bullshit on there graph ej oem pumps have 2 big problems that need to be addressed first one is locktight on the gear pump plate tge second is the bore roundness and tolerence when bolted to block the oil pressure bypass piston binds in the bore u can test this by removing the spring and try to pull piston out by hand it gets stuck u can even notice scoreing marks on used ones i find best fix is to polish the piston and deber the piston sharp edges and run a reamer in the bore hole straight this fixes one of the dumbest flaws with the ej pump for oil flow increase all u need do it use bigger pickup tube and bore the block where pickup meets oil pump
Sound is super quiet on this video for me, but intro is normal volume
same
Yep, we used a new Lapel Mike. The Audio is clear, but you need to turn it up.
We'll see if we can get it working better for the next video.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Same. 😢
I was at the gym watching couldn’t hear anything
I have an 11MM on my EJ25 with non avcs heads and borg warner turbo. It sits at 100 psi when cold but settles to 70 psi hot at 3000 rpm and about 35psi hot idle. I'm pretty happy with those numbers. 10w30 synthetic
I'd say those are some solid numbers for sure. And good that you are keep an eye on them.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Currently running a 12mm on an ej207 with a borg warner turbo. Seeing similar oil pressure numbers but also burning oil. It's a fresh rebuild, still breaking in actually. Any suggestions?
@@Bittertokken how is the oil drain? Big enough to handle the oil flow? When is the oil burning happening? Or is it just disappearing?
@@woodzy575 Ah, the oil drain! I don't know that size but it hasn't been changed. Visibly burns at idle.
@@Bittertokken check spark plugs for oil. Oily plugs would mean it's either rings or valve seals or poor crankcase venting. Just finding where it's leaking in the system
Man that IAG stage 2 works wonders for my build. Cold idle is 100+ psi warmed up is 80psi after many many pulls still at around 65/70. As well as at 8k+ rpm I’m pulling around 85psi! On vr1 10/30.
The 12mm pump came out on the quad avcs bl/bp turbo legacy with ej20x ej20y engines. Twin turbo legacy engines still had the 10mm oil pump.
Odd, out of the 6 I've torn down all of them had the 11mm pump.
I've seen conflicting information on this front, so maybe I'll have to do a bit more digging. My recollection is that the 12mm pump came on the TT Legacy, but I'll see if I can find more information.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks Keith!
@@FlatironsTuning The Legacy with twin turbos were the older models and they had a 10mm pump and no AVCS. The only other newer model twin turbo Legacy was the S401, but again 10mm pump with AVCS. As far as I know the 12mm pump wasn't used on any factory car. 11mm pump was used for the demands on the quad AVCS. If I need to correct this I will. Thanks for keeping things going guys.
It was on the EG33 ironically, but with a slightly different cover. I'd swear that I found the application of this pump for the TT Legacy at one point. Going to have to do a little digging.
Awesome content guys, people need to subscribe and build your following so that you can keep epic subaru content coming!
Thanks very much!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for making these videos. 2015sti rack into GDs would be a fun video.
Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
really want to do this to my 04 sti. TSS front subframe makes it easier. might go that route
@@FvD714 cutting into the subframe no biggie, just a trim. apparently a flywheel bearing makes a great spacer. but shortening the tie rod ends just right so that one has threads to play with concerns me. also the apparently needed upgraded steering pump is too costly for my budget.
Hi, I am in process of rebuilding my JDM EJ207 (from a V6 GC8, not the closed deck) and I am using the nitrited crankshaft from the newest Sti. The original crankshaft has only one oil hole but the new version has 2. Because of it I decided to use the 11mm oil pump but now I am not sure if it was the best option. I also have the IAG oil pan and pick up (+ ~1.3 liters of oil if comparing with the OEM GC pan). Any advice? Should I go back to the 10mm even using the new crankshaft with 2 oil holes? I am just an enthusiast working in my own Subaru, so all knowledge I have came from guys like you over the internet. By the way, thanks for the amazing content you provide us here!
Newer single avcs EJ207 with nitrided crossdrilled crank still uses 10mm pump.
I think that you will be fine with the 11mm oil pump. Just keep an eye on your pressures to be sure.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I built a v7 207 with a v10 nitrated crank that I also had WPC treated. I chose the 12mm with 2 extra shims(since you have to break timing if you want to change shim count figured having a slightly higher valve pressure release would be easier to deal with via oil weights than going back and adding more shims if I needed them) I'm running looser tolerances. (0.002 main and rod) with 10w40 I get 200kpa(~30psi) at a HOT idle(80-100c) and from 3-8k rpm it's around 490-500kpa( (80-100c ) but generally I dont see my oil temps go above 70c on a daily basis only when Im really pushing it will it creep up after sitting at idle for awhile after putting some heat into the system. Running a moroso aluminum road racing oil pan with 5qt capacity. Need to Optimize on my cooling system as it starts becoming the issue for me during extended periods of 6-8krpm
This video is as close as I could find for my question. I have a 14’ outback with 200k miles. Non-Turbo , still has original chain. My issue is the oil light would come on after driving long distances in hot weather. I put a new sensor in and that solved the problem for 6 months. Now I get a flash of oil light every once in a while. Engine acts just fine. This is a daily driver. Here are my question, What do you guys call my engine, do you think changing it is worth the effort?
Thank you! As always, very nice videos.
Thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
Vulume mic to low. But great video.
Ob1, I missed this vid. I'm glad I found it, do you believe WPC is effective in a part like this? Would you recommend porting where the oil is feed to the oil filter on the block?
09:00 I couldn't help but to notice that IAG did not provide any actual numbers for the Y axis.
Yep, totally agree. There is so little information I'd actually say that this isn't really meaningful data. At a minimum we need to know the weight of oil used and the temperature during the test was the same. Most likely it was, but it is important information.
The biggest piece, as you mention is the pressure. We really need to know what the pressure readings were for the 3 tests.
It is a good start, but it would really help to know more details about how the tests were performed.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Agreed - I was wondering the same thing regarding the pressure that the tests were run at. The results there could vary significantly between flow rate under no pressure or load and just free flowing, pump out of engine vs. something like 80PSI reflecting more of a real world condition.
Hi! I'm building an EJ257 (all new in box) with EJ255 heads. I'd like to run high turbo pressures later, what pump should I select for this build? (The original pump would be a 10mm). I'm also told the OEM headgaskets are the way to go (the old coated gaskets failed a lot, the new revised ones are apparently considered reliable). My only concern with headgasket is which model to match the EJ257 to EJ255 head.
It would all depend on your oil clearances, personally I’d run the 11mm pump if stock or slightly looser bearing clearances. Also the new grimspeed head gasket is nice. RCM use to make a solid gasket back in the day I’d run 35psi with a arp headstuds never once had an issue.
Thanks for your question. For the head gaskets, you pick those based on the cylinder heads. You need the ones for the 07+ heads.
For the pump, if everything else is stock (shortblock, etc.), I'd say that you should be okay with the 10mm pump. But it is always a good idea to put an oil pressure and oil temp gauge on so you can keep an eye on what is going on.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Sealing these things is a pain in the butt. Take your time. I used Permatex gray.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Stay Tuned!
hey guys, I bought a subaru wrx from 03 (blobeye) and I'm quite scared of the car giving me troubles even tho it passed all my "tests"
I sometimes see some white smoke, I get instantly worried.
I wanna mod the car in order to have it being more reilable, I'm looking forward to get an air-oil separator
I know you have a video on what to mod to get it to be more reliable, but I would like to know, what type of things should I be aware of, in order to keep my beast running for a life.
I've 118.000KM on this car, and I've owned it for 1 month now
I'd definitely recommend going through these two videos:
th-cam.com/video/pXQdgxHWFwk/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/8b7tmjJFvoo/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps, and Stay Tuned!
I’ve got a 154k mile ej205 I’m about to pull from my 03 wrx. Having back pressure head gasket symptoms after over boosting during tuning. I’m gathering parts and it was suggested that I do an oil pump upgrade/replacement. After watching your video I’m inclined to think the RCM 10mm would be plenty. I’m also looking at an sti pan and upgraded pickup. Any reason the RCM 10mm pump would be inadequate? I doubt I’ll do much more than a vf or ported 16g size turbo with this block. Or should I just skip the oil pump altogether? Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and thanks for the question.
For a lightly modified car as described, the 10mm pump should be fine. With that many miles, I would definitely say that a new pump is a good idea.
Good luck with the rebuild, and let us know if you need anything else.
Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuningdefinately appreciate the quick response! Added the pump to my list.
@@FlatironsTuningso I was on your website last night shopping for what I need but I did run into a questioning point when I started looking at gasket kits. As it seems the early wrx kits 02-05 vary a bit and I didn’t know what to order. I also put the sti oil pan, stock pick up and dipstick kit you guys offer. I was wondering if that’s available with an upgraded pick up? I sent you guys an email, but being the weekend and a holiday one at that I figured I’d ask here too. Thanks a bunch!
Question, what if you say a Ej205 avcs stock bearing clearance, and your doing an oil cooler upgrade, say a 10 row oil cooler would you need a oil pump upgrade from a 10mm to 11mm. Or 10mm is sufficient enough in that scenario.
Thanks for your question. Adding a cooler should not increase any resistance in the oiling system, so you should not need a larger oil pump just because you add an oil cooler.
But that being said, you will want to monitor your oil pressure before and then after install of the oil cooler to make sure that you are getting correct oil pressure after the install.
If you aren't seeing correct oil pressure, that is typically an issue with the line size or overall design of the cooler, so you would want to correct that issue or remove the cooler if you aren't getting sufficient pressure.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning that was very help I appreciate it , I always watch the videos you guys put out, very informative keep up the good work! Cheers
@@FlatironsTuning Hello Flatirons team. Since most oil coolers induce a slight pressure loss, as negligible as it may be, is there a way to compensate for that couple of psi loss? Is this something to worry about if the cars sees regular track use?
great info Jon!
Thanks very much. Stay Tuned!
Hi is 0.002" clearence for the crank mains on 2.7 ej25 stroker too much ? Building as a daily driver. Thanks.
Are factory Subaru oil relief valves a bad design? I believe mine is stuck. It's blowing the oil filter seal.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. Generally speaking, they are a fairly reliable design. However, companies like Roger Clark Motorsports use a re-designed relief valve in their pumps that is designed to function better.
I would recommend getting a measure of your oil pressure as a start to see if you are getting unusually high readings. I will mention that the best place to start may be to put on a new filter to make sure that the filter is functioning properly. I suspect that your oil pressure would have to be fairly high to cause an issue on the filter seal itself.
I hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Could you explain to me more thoroughly what the drawbacks are for applications using 12mm
Thanks for your question. I'd say that was best covered in this video:
th-cam.com/video/7yFo92-oqXU/w-d-xo.html&feature=shares
If you have any questions after going through that, let me know.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Might get flamed for this I have a ej251 I believe(na) in a 2.5rs 2005, was wondering if stepping up to a wrx/sti oem oil pump would be beneficial for the car? Just a DD
What’s the power/torque limit on a Stock EJ255 block with 10mm oil pump? Single avcs, d25 heads. I have a new 11mm pump on hand but having major doubts whether to install it. Thanks
For the stock block, 350 whp is typically the point where you can make good power and keep the engine reliable. We have gone over 400 whp with our race car for a while now, but I wouldn't recommend that for a street car. It works for us because we are on race gas and now E85, and very low miles (though they are hard miles).
Hope that helps and thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
Is it a common failure for the shim in the oil pump to get stuck and be unable to control the oil pressure and over pressurize?
Thanks for your question. I would not say that is a common failure. But we have seen a couple of instances where the shim can cause issues. It is typically ain issue with low oil pressure, not high pressure. Related, we have seen a few isolated issues with the relief valve not moving as easily as it should that caused issues with pressure as well (again on the low side typically), which is why I believe that RCM and IAG both chose to address the relief valve.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Have you much knowledge of Fuji racing pumps or their parts in general
Thanks for watching and glad that the video helped.
Stay Tuned!
I have a STOCK 20 sti. it still is under warranty! I DD my car to and from work and around town. My work commute is 35 minutes on the highway @70mph about 3000rpm in 6th gear.
Qurstion: is the constant 3k rpm hard or bad for my motor? I love the car and plan on doing the full laundry list of reliable mods when the subaru warranty runs out and my extended kicks in from the dealer I bought the car from. They have already told me I can do anything as long as I don't touch A/F... 😩 I plan on building a motor once the car is paid off but until then want to keep my motor as healthy as possible. I'm very strict with Maintenance as I know lack off is one of the biggest killers of boxers engines. Sorry for the story just trying to paint a full picture. Thanks for any input.
Thanks for your question. No driving on the highway isn't bad for your car at all. Stay up on your maintenance and you should be fine for years to come :-)
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the reply and good to know.
If you need to speed up, always use a lower gear with high RPMs
I'm intending to do a destroked EJ255/257 with EJ20K heads and forged internals, around 8.5:1CR and about 1.5 bars of boost. I'm looking at the OEM pumps, which would be ideal for me?
Thanks for your question. I'd first recommend confirming that you can bolt an EJ20K head up to the EJ257 shortblock. Headgasket choice there may be difficult, and I also believe that they have somewhat small combustion chambers so piston choice for that compression ratio may be difficult as well.
I'd say that it may be best to use a head that is a known quantity and designed to work with that block.
From there, if you aren't using AVCS, you will be fine with the 10mm or 11mm oil pumps I'd think. But it will be best to monitor oil pressure to be sure if you can.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning Manley makes destroker pistons, and I'll be chamber matching the heads. If I were to change heads I would also need to do the engine and ECU wiring, which will increase the price too much. I would use stock EJ25 turbo head gaskets, but is there a reason the heads wouldn't fit?
@@Rosteripulla The EJ20K heads are for the factory closed deck EJ20, so the coolant passages are different, and I believe they also use a thinner head gasket compared to the semi-closed headgaskets.
Also, double check, but I believe that the Manley destroker pistons move the wrist pin down to allow you to use a standard length rod which is not ideal for a de-stroker. You would ideally want to use those longer tods to get a better ratio.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Hi fellas, what original oil pump size on the EJ22 and EJ251 (both SOHC)?? THX🙌
sir, my motor has larger clearances 0.020 rod main, dual ball bearing turbo, oil squirters,15w50 motor oil, single avcs using 11mm pump, idle is too low 14-20psi , cold at 75psi .. what is your recommendation? switch to 12mm pump or shim 11mm pump?
id jump to oem 12mm but get large opening pickup tube or open the hole up on ur stock one
Do you have reccomendation for time attack ej207? Mine drop from 5.8bars to 4 bars during trackdays..
Better oil pan/baffle
@@TheZohanLohan i got killer B baffle plate and oil pick up... Still the same
Thanks for your question. What weight oil are you running, and what pan and pump? As suggested, a pan with better baffling may be a good place to start. Also, is the 4 bar hot oil pressure?
Thanks for the question and Stay Tuned!
Thank you for reply . Im using 10W50 300V engine oil . Stock EJ207 10MM pump, Killer B oil pick and baffle plate. And yes 4 bar pressure hot oil pressure.
Do you know what your peak oil temp is? If your temp is not getting much over say 230 deg. F, it may be worth going with something like the Killer-B Super-G pan, and maybe stepping up to the 11mm pump.
love how iag used junk graph to show flow but left out an entire section of data on it the oilpump flow values lol i smell bullshit on there graph
ej oem pumps have 2 big problems that need to be addressed first one is locktight on the gear pump plate tge second is the bore roundness and tolerence when bolted to block the oil pressure bypass piston binds in the bore u can test this by removing the spring and try to pull piston out by hand it gets stuck u can even notice scoreing marks on used ones i find best fix is to polish the piston and deber the piston sharp edges and run a reamer in the bore hole straight this fixes one of the dumbest flaws with the ej pump
for oil flow increase all u need do it use bigger pickup tube and bore the block where pickup meets oil pump
Which years was the twin turbo legacy made?
1998-2004, but not available here in the US. You could get them in Canada I believe, but 100% on that.
I have a 96 but that’s out of Japan. North American market is a whole different world it seems
Where is the volume can't here . what a waste