I did this Job 17 years ago! I'm watching this to refresh my memory! One thing I did, which Removed a considerable amount of Steps(!), Is to compress the Spring in the the Shock Tower! The Bottom of the Strut then easily Clears the Top of the Steering knuckle! ( Every time you dissemble something that isn't causing issues, you risk introducing dirt, and causing damage, thusly costing more money, and using up more time than the original repair plan would have used! D
Watching the video and reading the comments can really be helpful thanks for the advice of compressing the springs that there is a no-brainer and great advice,
Anyone watching this and getting concerned - they guy just wanted to try out his new press! Changed them on my car with no issues at all, half an hour per side: undo the sway bar, ball joint and tie rods - take old out, put new in, use a tiny car jack to lift the lower arm pushing the strut in place
Not so fast LOL. I just replaced my Neice 2008 Beetle 2.5 auto with Monroe Premium struts today and believe me it's a mission if you do not have the necessary specialty tools. Here's what happend so tried pressing the strut with a jack like others and yourself commented, but negative NO WAY to seat them using that technique. I found out from online forums and measuring it myself the Monroe struts are a bit thicker than OEM some guys have even damaged there struts sanding these specific struts down too much creating pin holes screwing them up. I did however sand off the thick paint with no luck. I actually planned on using bro-in law's press like this gentleman did in his vid and do the same thing, but after doing a bit more research I ended up making a home made Spindle Socket spreader a MUST HAVE with an old 3/8 allen socket I believe it was a size 8 or 9 not sure since it was nice and rusty. Anyhow I used a grinder to match the oblong shape I saw on the interwebs and it worked like a charm. I did it with and without removing axles since I'm replacing a torn CV boot. So if your going aftermarket depending on the year strut maker and driveline the Jack technique may not work SMH a few hours wasted of my life can attest to that 🤦♂️
@@johnny4713ifyI’m about to do this tomorrow on my beetle. But I strongly believe I can get it using the small jack method and not taking the knuckle off. I’ll let ya know😂
@@John-d5i8v Since I've posted my results I've done a few more using the jack technique, but I measured the thickness of shocks before hand. The last one I did we used the cheapo Autozone Shocks that are actually way thinner in circumference than OEM so they slipped in like nothing, but I did have to tighten them way over the torque spec in order for them to not completely collapse thru the knuckle. I'd recommend you run a (mark-line) around the shocks at the knuckle with a paint marker. I do that as a safety level monitor check if they start to slip down in the future so you can see and correct it. If your shocks are thicker than OEM trust me the jack technique will not work, but you can try. BTW save yourself some money by making your own knuckle spreader like I did. Let me know how it goes👍🏻
One of the best car repair videos! It's like impossible finding videos for my bug to begin with let alone finding super helpful and good ones to see what's going on and what you need! Im ready to tackle this repair now.
For me, an excellent video because the problem is well explained, "what" to do and importantly the "why" For example at 9:18 the "doughnut" compression being the root cause of thumping noise. Well done.
Nice video. Of all the front strut changing videos out there you are the only one to show the top hat 9:13 at closeup. Thank you very much. Subscribed.
My Compliment to you is: Nicely illustrated, Excellent Vocal description, Indicating needed Tools and Needed Sizes! You should have not needed to press in the new strut! Clean the inner Sleeve of the Steering knuckle apply a slight smear of oil, and the strut base will smoothly slide in! D
1st of all. THANK YOU SO MUTCH for lowering the volume when something loud was happening. Every TH-camr needs to do this. 2nd verry good tutorial. Thanks for helping me get my girlfriends car back on the road.
Good video. Beetle shape creates some weird access points. Getting the strut out could be done without removing the knuckle if you use spring compressors to squeeze down the strut. Also, the pinch bolt seam can be pried open to let the strut/shock slide out and in.
A knuckle spreader makes this job much easier. No need to use a press to put the strut in and out of the knuckle. Also you top hat looks bent. Finally, like the guy below wrote and I commented, your first top strut nut goes on AFTER the big rubber top bushing/strut mount. Lastly, your clunking is from the rear bushing in the lower control arm, not from the gap at the top of the strut. Many many Mk4 VW's have that strut gap and don't clunk.
Thanks. I fell asleep at 1:30am and hit the curb, snapping the strut in two. I can still drive it but the tire goes a little sideways and is wearing on the side of the tire, plus I'm nervous something else will break. As soon as I get my stimulus check I'm going to replace this. Driving a different car until then.
@Bretton Ferguson Sorry i just re read that the strut snapped in two lol. damn man. Glad to hear you were still able to drive it, so you must have not been injured or at least not too bad.
@@calebsiemens3189 you don’t need to buy it, use a spark plug socket with the hex on the outside and an Allen key, I’ve just done the job, it’s quite straightforward.
I just did this job. Drivers side is only requires removing the sway bar end link and the spindle bolt. After that you can hammer the control arm away from the strut.It took me about 20 wacks with a household hammer. Everything went back in just as easy with a little anti seize lube. I used a jack to put the spindle back on the strut. You dont need to take apart all the stuff Rolando did. (45mins) Passenger side is not as easy. The spindle will not clear just by hammering it. I used spring compressors on the springs while on the car. You need to get at least 3 coils to compress the spring as much as you need. Most compressors have bolts that are so long you have to have the tool end facing up making it difficult for you to put them on., just take your time with a small adjustable wrench. You will get the struts off doing this and some hammering. It's tough but you can do it. Use the spring compressors on the new struts (before you put them on your car). Again it will be tough to take them out but it will work. No taking off all the stuff Rolando did. (2 hours). YMMV. I am slow.
May I ask, what is a reasonable rate that you would charge someone to change assembly for passenger and driver side as far as labor? This seems to be like a 1 1/2 hour job
@@jacobmarcellus1240 Thanks for replying. Someone quoted me $400 for each side so $800 total to install my complete assembly struts with the springs. Is that normal? I thought the price was outrageous but maybe I don’t understand the complications with the beetle installation in particular 🤷🏽♀️. The reason I got whole assembly instead of quick strut was so it would be less labor intensive even though they cost more
@@hello_04 I'm no authority, just a shadetree mechanic working on my kids car. I'd keep looking for a lower price with an included alignment since you will disconnect the tie rod ends. I did KYB quickstruts from Rockauto. I think they were $160 for the pair. Double that for the same SKU at the local parts chains.
At 13:41 you say to add the mushroom shaped bushing ontop of the damper shaft nut , 'it just sits ontop' it should be under the nut. Ie its held on buy the nut. That's how it came off my beetle and how its shown in my repair manual. Please don't take this as a criticism. Just a heads up on what repair manual has. Great video.
i put it back together how it came out. with the "mushroom" sitting on top of the bearing under the top strut nut, it then allows the coilover to turn when steering under the mushroom. But if thats what you read in the manual then i cant argue that. I just replaced it how i saw it come apart. thank you for the feedback.
@@andyburgess4323 in the video you can see the nut wouldnt have anything to hold down on the inside of the rubber bushing. i have a spare bushing and bearing and just looked at it and there is no lip for a nut to hold it.
@@hyr0llr What year is your beetle? I've done struts on my 01' Beetle and my 03' Jetta and both have the nut AFTER the strut rubber mount is installed. There is a metal ring inside that the nut grabs onto. Here's a site showing the assembly order. www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/a4/struts-replace-VW-Golf.htm
@@daveschmidt132 When i removed the strut assembly, i was able to pull the rubber mount off by hand without taking the nut off. Thats why i was under the impression it sat on top. Thank you very much for the info. Hope that people see your individual comment for clarification
Thanks for this comment; was wondering about that - I think you just saved us a ton of work ! This -IS- a Great video for strut replacement for when that job comes up..!
You could probably use a pipe wrench around a socket and put an allen wrench through the square hole in the socket. No? I'll may need to do this job and I may try that out. I'll let you know how it goes.
What struts are those? I've got the same one's on my beetle and after watching this, I need to order that open socket or take the grinder to one I have ha! Helpful vid, thanks!
i cant remember exactly where i put mine but just look for a flat spot on the subframe. if you look at 7:40 you can see the stand just inside of the control arm.
It all depends on engine type. If your VW Beetle is a 2.0 or lower this quick strut design is correct. Since Rolandos is working on a 2.0 beetle it was assembled correct. You can even see it when he breaks down the strut the rubber mount isn't in frame just pops off and on by hand. The heaver 2.5 beetles have a different design like your VW the nut sits ontop of the rubber mount and bearing. Kinda confusing. BTW Amazon offers Monroe Quick Struts for 2.5 engine beetles you'll get the similar strut Rolando had in the video, but Monroe itself don't sell quick struts for 2.5 turbo S engines only 2.0 Beetles so always double check.
@@johnny4713ify You are correct! I just did this job on my 2000 VW New Beetle 1.8T that I've owned since new. The large top rubber mount sits on top of the bearing nut, not below it. In fact, it's impossible to do it any other way since the hole in the rubber mount is larger than the diameter of the bearing nut. Thus, you can replace the commonly deformed mount without compressing the spring!
@@Gman-apr53 Yes Sir. I Actually did another complete front suspension job on a 2006 VW 2.5 a few weeks ago. Although I didn't have to take the strut apart like he did. They were blue Monroe struts same as the video I believe. Anyhow I've done a bit of these in my time so since I had to replace essentially everything CV axle, bushings, Tie Rods etc. I just took the knuckle off minus the rotor and tapped it in upside down into the new strut. I've actually made the VW specialty strut removal tools with items I had laying around and saved 💰. That being said I only used the spreader once and never needed the specialty socket with allen key pass through since my impact gun can just zip them off and don't need to use it while setting the torque once the bug is sitting level with all it's weight. I still appreciate the gentlemans video as a guide (Minus the press part) other easier methods to someone whom never taken on this task👍🏻.
@@johnny4713ifyI got a 2006 and I'm going to try something different on the passenger side if you only have to clear about 2in why not just compressed the coil then we don't have to do all that work by removing all those large nuts and bolts, I'm going to borrow a spring compressor from O'Reilly's
@@mrvic92154 To answer your question here's a bit of a read so hopefully you'll get some great info. BTW you said passenger side so hopefully your replacing driver side aswell? There is no need to get the compressors unless your doing a rebuild of the struts. You'll still need room to lower the control arm far enough to bang down on the knuckle and pop off the strut. If your trying to make it easier by compressing the spring with out a strut spreader you'll still have to somehow muscle the strut off the knuckle not an easy task. I've done a few that only needed the struts and not entire front end replaced (Control arms, tie rods, etc) You can replace them without removing most of the hardware, but it sure makes it easier. Knuckle, Sway bar bolts, WD40 and a long heavy duty prybar is really all you need to take the strut off. The gentleman here didn't have the strut spreader so he used what he had available to install the strut back onto the vehicle. For me if I'm doing a complete front end rebuild it has been way easier to tear it down and with the knuckle completely off the vehicle tapping it onto the new strut upside down then I install the whole unit in one piece onto the vehicle. What people do not get if they've never replaced struts on these is that aftermarket shocks are not 100% spec and the tolerances can be off. For sure Monroe shocks are a bit thicker than OEM and bear to install without a spreader on the other hand some cheaper shocks are thinner in circumference and just slip in way too easy not a good thing. If the shocks are thinner in circumference than OEM the OEM torque specs at the knuckle won't be enough and the shock will just slip past it's position once the full weight of the vehicle is applied ask me how I know LOL. Anyhow my friend still insisted on leaving them in so I had to lift the vehicle back up adjust them back up to the correct ride height on the knuckle and tighten the hell outta them. I also marked them with a metal marker so we could keep and eye on them to make sure they didn't get loose. No joke after having worked on so many family and friends dang Beetles I have become the neighborhood VW backyard mechanic 🤣. I have done front end work with and without completely tearing down the front end like you see here. Forgot Yes you can use the compressors to replace the mounts under the top hats incar like I have done in the past with Powerflex mounts because the mounts go bad on the heavier 2.5 beetles more frequently, but no need for them otherwise. The only tool I'd highly suggest you get is the VW strut spreader it will make this job a million times easier. As far as the top hat nuts just use an air or electric impact gun and your good. Lastly if you do happen to remove the axle nut for whatever reason there is a proper torque sequence steps you'll need to follow that involves rolling the vehicle to seat the axle/bearings or else you will smoke your bearings. Let me know how it goes.
i tried doing something liek that with screwdrivers and punches. but still was not able to spread wide enough with getting in the way of the strut going in.
trust me i tried on the 1st one lol i just wasnt able to spread it enough. I tried with pry bars and screwdrivers hammered in there, and when i would go to put the strut in, it would shoot out. If you have a different tool in mind than im all ears. I can picture a tool i would make to do exactly what you said, i just dont know if there is something out there like that
If I remember Ill let you know what works for me. I saw some guys just put a jack under the a-arm and push it right in. Im going to try that first. Have you seen any lift kits. Or better, do you know if possible to change final drive ratio on vw 5speed
@@flashgordon3715 i tried that with the jack. but the knuckle kept flopping to one side and kinking the angle so it would just lift the car off the jacks. and no to both of your questions
Not that bad taking off knuckle. Just did this a couple days ago. Using a spring compressor is kind of a waste of time. Can take the knuckle off in like 20 min so no real need for compressors
You didn't necessarily have to buy that socket for the top hat. You can just impact it off, then on installation, use a 21mm spark plug socket, hold that with a pair of vice grips, and stick a allen key down the center of the socket.
Question new to VW Beetle world and planning to do this job. I have all the tools except the top hat 21mm special socket. I do have a 21mm sparkplug socket I'm sure I can zip the old nuts off with an impact, but the new Monroe shocks do not have an allen key hole for the install. I noticed your new shocks didn't have the allen key hole as-well so did you use vice grips to hold that stem or you just torqued it down once the vehicle tires were on the ground? I'm debating on just buying a deep offset 21mm wrench or ordering that socket $15, but even then Iooks like I gotta use some pointy vice grips. Please advise Thanks
i ussed one of those open sockets with a little wrech to hold the piston. it being a new shock, im sure yu can zip it on with an impact since there probably a litltle bit a friction since they are new.
@@hyr0llr Yes I see you used the open socket with the allen key for the removal, but you skipped the install of the new shocks with the new non allen piston so I was scratching my head as to what you used lol. I've been digging through all my little sockets and cannot find a socket that fits the piston head something between a 9 and 10mm. I tried a 3/8 but just spins so im gunna try to find a 8 point 1/4 socket or somehow make one by modifying a 9mm. None of my local hardware or autoparts stores carry a deep offset 21 or SAE equivalent wrench SMH and since I live in a rural area orders take way too long to get here so gunna try to make it work with the 21mm sparkplug socket don't wanna impact the new nut of the top hat I belive it's 44lbs don't wanna mess that up. Thanks for your response 👍
@@johnny4713ify yeah i apologize on foegetting the install. the mix of trying to do the job and recording the process gets a little confusing sometimes and miss some key footage. lol.....another "sketchy" thing you could try and do is get some small wide mouth vice grip and place them as far up on the piston in the wheel well as possible to hold the piston. and hopefully its just out of the working range if the shock seal.
Instead of using a press couldn't you use the weight of the car and a jack to press up? I'm about to try it so hopefully mine won't be as difficult as yours.
@@hyr0llrI have my own. Years ago I bought a 6' iron pipe (like for water) and that works perfectly. All the leverage you need and it only costs a few dollars. I did get the bearing off just now using that. Easy as pie. The only thing I had a problem with was that I was too timid to really lay into it. but it actually wasn't too much trouble at all.
Well just finished mine and I guess depend on the brand of the strut the strut doesn't go in that easy on my case I brought monroe I believe those are the same he used in this video took me like 3 hours on the passenger side and before you start doing this hob make sure you buy the spreader knuckle because if you not get it is going To be very difficult to getter in or out
Is it normal on beetles to feel every bump or is just me that's the reason I decided to change the shocks and struts all bushing are fine and a light with a car sliding came up is that related to the abs?
Okay, so I'm new to owning a car. I got a used 2005 VW Beetle about a month ago, and it needs these replaced. I don't know the first thing when it comes to cars, but I'm pretty good at figuring things out. My biggest worry is not having the correct part or tool needed at this point. Can someone give a complete list of all the tools needed for this? I just want to make sure i'm prepped and have everything before starting to take my car apart.
if you are gonna do it they way i did in the video. the special tools you are gonna need are spring compressors schwaben 21/22 strut wrench( part #017822sch01a) a press,( unless you have a friend with one) and just metric wrenches, sockets and allen keys(hex key) set.
@@hyr0llr Thank you! Thankfully, I don't need to mess with the spring. I just need to replace the whole assembly. One more question (Maybe a few if they come up later), Can you get the struts at a parts store, or do you have to get them online?
@@redella50 from what i see, you can but they might have to order them and you might have to wait a day or 2. and i was trying to replace the asembly as a whole as you seen in the video, but like i said, the shock at the bottom didnt just slide in. thats why i did all the extra work with the spring compressor and press. hopefully the ones you buy just slude in.
I Just have to Say, at the Beginning of this job, a thorough visual inspection should be done on all the Suspension Critical parts! When you noticed the Broken Control Arm (Rubber) Bushing, and all the Parts that are still not tightened up,, This is the time to Buy a New (or both) Lower Control arm(s)! The New '*CONTROL' Arms comes with a new Ball joint, and *Bushings ready to be installed! This Beetle needed to stay on the jack stands till the new parts are/were in!
And like the other TH-camr said, thanks for lowering the volume. Replaced my trunk lid last night, used my impact and almost made myself deaf from impacting it too close to my ears.
What a load of old bollocks this is....Is it possibly a wind up?....There's absolutely no need to remove the brake callipers or the disc or the track rod....That "tool" he bought cannot physically work ffs!..
I did this Job 17 years ago! I'm watching this to refresh my memory! One thing I did, which Removed a considerable amount of Steps(!), Is to compress the Spring in the the Shock Tower! The Bottom of the Strut then easily Clears the Top of the Steering knuckle! ( Every time you dissemble something that isn't causing issues, you risk introducing dirt, and causing damage, thusly costing more money, and using up more time than the original repair plan would have used! D
Watching the video and reading the comments can really be helpful thanks for the advice of compressing the springs that there is a no-brainer and great advice,
Anyone watching this and getting concerned - they guy just wanted to try out his new press! Changed them on my car with no issues at all, half an hour per side: undo the sway bar, ball joint and tie rods - take old out, put new in, use a tiny car jack to lift the lower arm pushing the strut in place
Not so fast LOL. I just replaced my Neice 2008 Beetle 2.5 auto with Monroe Premium struts today and believe me it's a mission if you do not have the necessary specialty tools. Here's what happend so tried pressing the strut with a jack like others and yourself commented, but negative NO WAY to seat them using that technique. I found out from online forums and measuring it myself the Monroe struts are a bit thicker than OEM some guys have even damaged there struts sanding these specific struts down too much creating pin holes screwing them up. I did however sand off the thick paint with no luck. I actually planned on using bro-in law's press like this gentleman did in his vid and do the same thing, but after doing a bit more research I ended up making a home made Spindle Socket spreader a MUST HAVE with an old 3/8 allen socket I believe it was a size 8 or 9 not sure since it was nice and rusty. Anyhow I used a grinder to match the oblong shape I saw on the interwebs and it worked like a charm. I did it with and without removing axles since I'm replacing a torn CV boot. So if your going aftermarket depending on the year strut maker and driveline the Jack technique may not work SMH a few hours wasted of my life can attest to that 🤦♂️
@@johnny4713ifyI’m about to do this tomorrow on my beetle. But I strongly believe I can get it using the small jack method and not taking the knuckle off. I’ll let ya know😂
@@John-d5i8v Since I've posted my results I've done a few more using the jack technique, but I measured the thickness of shocks before hand. The last one I did we used the cheapo Autozone Shocks that are actually way thinner in circumference than OEM so they slipped in like nothing, but I did have to tighten them way over the torque spec in order for them to not completely collapse thru the knuckle. I'd recommend you run a (mark-line) around the shocks at the knuckle with a paint marker. I do that as a safety level monitor check if they start to slip down in the future so you can see and correct it. If your shocks are thicker than OEM trust me the jack technique will not work, but you can try. BTW save yourself some money by making your own knuckle spreader like I did. Let me know how it goes👍🏻
@@John-d5i8v How did it go? I thought my reply from yesterday unloaded I guess not.
@@johnny4713ify it was a whole lot of gay sex…. Had to take the knuckle off both sides to get em on.😂
One of the best car repair videos! It's like impossible finding videos for my bug to begin with let alone finding super helpful and good ones to see what's going on and what you need! Im ready to tackle this repair now.
For me, an excellent video because the problem is well explained, "what" to do and importantly the "why" For example at 9:18 the "doughnut" compression being the root cause of thumping noise. Well done.
Nice video. Of all the front strut changing videos out there you are the only one to show the top hat 9:13 at closeup. Thank you very much. Subscribed.
This video deserves TH-cam awards. Saved me $1700
thats what they quoted you?
My Compliment to you is: Nicely illustrated, Excellent Vocal description, Indicating needed Tools and Needed Sizes! You should have not needed to press in the new strut! Clean the inner Sleeve of the Steering knuckle apply a slight smear of oil, and the strut base will smoothly slide in! D
1st of all. THANK YOU SO MUTCH for lowering the volume when something loud was happening. Every TH-camr needs to do this.
2nd verry good tutorial. Thanks for helping me get my girlfriends car back on the road.
yeah when editing the video i usually have headphones on, so if it loud for me i know it is loud for the watchers lol
@@hyr0llr you deserve a new subscriber and a smash on that like button just for the volume thingy
@@tachidatumoto6016 lol thanks man. i appreciate the notice of that
Good video. Beetle shape creates some weird access points.
Getting the strut out could be done without removing the knuckle if you use spring compressors to squeeze down the strut. Also, the pinch bolt seam can be pried open to let the strut/shock slide out and in.
A knuckle spreader makes this job much easier. No need to use a press to put the strut in and out of the knuckle. Also you top hat looks bent. Finally, like the guy below wrote and I commented, your first top strut nut goes on AFTER the big rubber top bushing/strut mount. Lastly, your clunking is from the rear bushing in the lower control arm, not from the gap at the top of the strut. Many many Mk4 VW's have that strut gap and don't clunk.
Thank you for that. I looked at this after I just finished mine and thought I'd done it wrong
Very good video and explanations. Some critics just have to try to show how wise they are. Again, thanks for a very good video.
thanks for the kind words
you dont need those specialized sockets. all you need is a 13/16 sparkplug socket. put the alen wrench through the top and turn it with a wrench,
On the passenger side I didn't remove the drive shift but did take off the 3 bolts holding the knuckle to the ,over control arm.....worked perfectly
Thanks. I fell asleep at 1:30am and hit the curb, snapping the strut in two. I can still drive it but the tire goes a little sideways and is wearing on the side of the tire, plus I'm nervous something else will break. As soon as I get my stimulus check I'm going to replace this. Driving a different car until then.
if it is going side to side, have you checked the tie rod?
@Bretton Ferguson Sorry i just re read that the strut snapped in two lol. damn man. Glad to hear you were still able to drive it, so you must have not been injured or at least not too bad.
You can use a spark plug socket and insert an Allen key 1/4 drive in through the top. Nice Vid Thankyou.
good idea. didnt think of that.
Brilliant
I've been looking at the special tool and its almost 100$
@@calebsiemens3189 you don’t need to buy it, use a spark plug socket with the hex on the outside and an Allen key, I’ve just done the job, it’s quite straightforward.
I just did this job. Drivers side is only requires removing the sway bar end link and the spindle bolt. After that you can hammer the control arm away from the strut.It took me about 20 wacks with a household hammer. Everything went back in just as easy with a little anti seize lube. I used a jack to put the spindle back on the strut. You dont need to take apart all the stuff Rolando did. (45mins)
Passenger side is not as easy. The spindle will not clear just by hammering it. I used spring compressors on the springs while on the car. You need to get at least 3 coils to compress the spring as much as you need. Most compressors have bolts that are so long you have to have the tool end facing up making it difficult for you to put them on., just take your time with a small adjustable wrench. You will get the struts off doing this and some hammering. It's tough but you can do it. Use the spring compressors on the new struts (before you put them on your car). Again it will be tough to take them out but it will work. No taking off all the stuff Rolando did. (2 hours). YMMV. I am slow.
May I ask, what is a reasonable rate that you would charge someone to change assembly for passenger and driver side as far as labor? This seems to be like a 1 1/2 hour job
I would think a shop would want 3 hours minimum start to finish. 1.5 hours is possible for someone familiar with these cars and this job.
@@jacobmarcellus1240 Thanks for replying. Someone quoted me $400 for each side so $800 total to install my complete assembly struts with the springs. Is that normal? I thought the price was outrageous but maybe I don’t understand the complications with the beetle installation in particular 🤷🏽♀️. The reason I got whole assembly instead of quick strut was so it would be less labor intensive even though they cost more
@@hello_04 I'm no authority, just a shadetree mechanic working on my kids car. I'd keep looking for a lower price with an included alignment since you will disconnect the tie rod ends. I did KYB quickstruts from Rockauto. I think they were $160 for the pair. Double that for the same SKU at the local parts chains.
First class instructional video, extremely informative.
thank you.
At 13:41 you say to add the mushroom shaped bushing ontop of the damper shaft nut , 'it just sits ontop' it should be under the nut. Ie its held on buy the nut. That's how it came off my beetle and how its shown in my repair manual. Please don't take this as a criticism. Just a heads up on what repair manual has. Great video.
i put it back together how it came out. with the "mushroom" sitting on top of the bearing under the top strut nut, it then allows the coilover to turn when steering under the mushroom. But if thats what you read in the manual then i cant argue that. I just replaced it how i saw it come apart. thank you for the feedback.
@@hyr0llr here is a very good video showing the procedure i outlined.
th-cam.com/video/gCDKCa-Iybc/w-d-xo.html
@@andyburgess4323 in the video you can see the nut wouldnt have anything to hold down on the inside of the rubber bushing. i have a spare bushing and bearing and just looked at it and there is no lip for a nut to hold it.
@@hyr0llr What year is your beetle? I've done struts on my 01' Beetle and my 03' Jetta and both have the nut AFTER the strut rubber mount is installed. There is a metal ring inside that the nut grabs onto. Here's a site showing the assembly order. www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/a4/struts-replace-VW-Golf.htm
@@daveschmidt132 When i removed the strut assembly, i was able to pull the rubber mount off by hand without taking the nut off. Thats why i was under the impression it sat on top. Thank you very much for the info. Hope that people see your individual comment for clarification
Very well done. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you. Hope your repairr goes smooth
Exellent video, very good film quality and informative.
Not sure if you know by now but there is special tool call strut spreader . That is used to spread the joint so you don't have to drop the spindle.
good to know for anyone who sees this
thumbs up for the 240sx on the back . loved your video thanks
thanks man. lol thank you for the feedback
Solid video and helped me alot, instead of using the specialty socket I just used a locking vise grip on the shock tube and the frame did the rest😂
by any means necessary lol I can dig it.
If you just need the upper mounts, You can change them without removing the struts, its way less work, but you need a spring compressor
Thanks for this comment; was wondering about that - I think you just saved us a ton of work !
This -IS- a Great video for strut replacement for when that job comes up..!
You could probably use a pipe wrench around a socket and put an allen wrench through the square hole in the socket. No?
I'll may need to do this job and I may try that out. I'll let you know how it goes.
Spark plug socket works perfectly as you have a hex on the outside
Very helpful video, thank you!
Very nice video. Well done. Good info too.
Thank you very much for the feedback.
Excellent video tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to put it up.
Thank you for the feedback. Cheers
That’s all you needed is a strut spreader it will expand the socket so the strut goes in it’s a $14 part
Awesome video
Thanks
What struts are those? I've got the same one's on my beetle and after watching this, I need to order that open socket or take the grinder to one I have ha! Helpful vid, thanks!
i believe moog replacements. yeah if this is a long term car, no reason not to get the sockets. thank you for the feedback.
Great video! This was very helpful for replacing my struts. Thanks a lot.
Thank you very much for the feedback. congrats on the repair.
Thanks for sharing.
Suspension strutts loose?
Great video buddy
Where is the best place to put the stands under the car?
i cant remember exactly where i put mine but just look for a flat spot on the subframe. if you look at 7:40 you can see the stand just inside of the control arm.
Can you replace just the top mount without having to undo everything else? Thanks
the metal top hat where the nut is or just the mushroom top?
Great video, tx so much!
Thank you for the kind words. Cheers
Hello. It Is necesary remove the whole Struts to change the rubber top?, Greetings from México.
probably not. youll just have to have someone push down while you replace it.
@@hyr0llr thanks for respond, I am replacing the lower bushing and I noticed a big play in Struts, thanks for.your help,..
I notice alot pf people put struts back together wrong, theyre putting the nut on top of the bearing meanwhile its gota be above
The rubber top mount.
It all depends on engine type. If your VW Beetle is a 2.0 or lower this quick strut design is correct. Since Rolandos is working on a 2.0 beetle it was assembled correct. You can even see it when he breaks down the strut the rubber mount isn't in frame just pops off and on by hand. The heaver 2.5 beetles have a different design like your VW the nut sits ontop of the rubber mount and bearing. Kinda confusing. BTW Amazon offers Monroe Quick Struts for 2.5 engine beetles you'll get the similar strut Rolando had in the video, but Monroe itself don't sell quick struts for 2.5 turbo S engines only 2.0 Beetles so always double check.
@@johnny4713ify You are correct! I just did this job on my 2000 VW New Beetle 1.8T that I've owned since new. The large top rubber mount sits on top of the bearing nut, not below it. In fact, it's impossible to do it any other way since the hole in the rubber mount is larger than the diameter of the bearing nut. Thus, you can replace the commonly deformed mount without compressing the spring!
@@Gman-apr53 Yes Sir. I Actually did another complete front suspension job on a 2006 VW 2.5 a few weeks ago. Although I didn't have to take the strut apart like he did. They were blue Monroe struts same as the video I believe. Anyhow I've done a bit of these in my time so since I had to replace essentially everything CV axle, bushings, Tie Rods etc. I just took the knuckle off minus the rotor and tapped it in upside down into the new strut. I've actually made the VW specialty strut removal tools with items I had laying around and saved 💰. That being said I only used the spreader once and never needed the specialty socket with allen key pass through since my impact gun can just zip them off and don't need to use it while setting the torque once the bug is sitting level with all it's weight. I still appreciate the gentlemans video as a guide (Minus the press part) other easier methods to someone whom never taken on this task👍🏻.
@@johnny4713ifyI got a 2006 and I'm going to try something different on the passenger side if you only have to clear about 2in why not just compressed the coil then we don't have to do all that work by removing all those large nuts and bolts, I'm going to borrow a spring compressor from O'Reilly's
@@mrvic92154 To answer your question here's a bit of a read so hopefully you'll get some great info. BTW you said passenger side so hopefully your replacing driver side aswell? There is no need to get the compressors unless your doing a rebuild of the struts. You'll still need room to lower the control arm far enough to bang down on the knuckle and pop off the strut. If your trying to make it easier by compressing the spring with out a strut spreader you'll still have to somehow muscle the strut off the knuckle not an easy task. I've done a few that only needed the struts and not entire front end replaced (Control arms, tie rods, etc) You can replace them without removing most of the hardware, but it sure makes it easier. Knuckle, Sway bar bolts, WD40 and a long heavy duty prybar is really all you need to take the strut off. The gentleman here didn't have the strut spreader so he used what he had available to install the strut back onto the vehicle. For me if I'm doing a complete front end rebuild it has been way easier to tear it down and with the knuckle completely off the vehicle tapping it onto the new strut upside down then I install the whole unit in one piece onto the vehicle. What people do not get if they've never replaced struts on these is that aftermarket shocks are not 100% spec and the tolerances can be off. For sure Monroe shocks are a bit thicker than OEM and bear to install without a spreader on the other hand some cheaper shocks are thinner in circumference and just slip in way too easy not a good thing. If the shocks are thinner in circumference than OEM the OEM torque specs at the knuckle won't be enough and the shock will just slip past it's position once the full weight of the vehicle is applied ask me how I know LOL. Anyhow my friend still insisted on leaving them in so I had to lift the vehicle back up adjust them back up to the correct ride height on the knuckle and tighten the hell outta them. I also marked them with a metal marker so we could keep and eye on them to make sure they didn't get loose. No joke after having worked on so many family and friends dang Beetles I have become the neighborhood VW backyard mechanic 🤣. I have done front end work with and without completely tearing down the front end like you see here. Forgot Yes you can use the compressors to replace the mounts under the top hats incar like I have done in the past with Powerflex mounts because the mounts go bad on the heavier 2.5 beetles more frequently, but no need for them otherwise. The only tool I'd highly suggest you get is the VW strut spreader it will make this job a million times easier. As far as the top hat nuts just use an air or electric impact gun and your good. Lastly if you do happen to remove the axle nut for whatever reason there is a proper torque sequence steps you'll need to follow that involves rolling the vehicle to seat the axle/bearings or else you will smoke your bearings. Let me know how it goes.
when you press it into the spindle. I just take a steel wedge and hammer into the slot that the bolt goes thru.. struts fall right in.
i tried doing something liek that with screwdrivers and punches. but still was not able to spread wide enough with getting in the way of the strut going in.
Rolando Robles it’s working on vehicles. We will all doing it different ways..... whatever works is the best way
@@thatdrh that is true my friend.
Great idea. I do not have a press, but I do have steel wedges and hammers. I will try your approach. Thanks for posting.
Where did you place the jack stands? I don't know why no one shows that.
could you have used a tool spread open the pinch knuckle on the spindle and not needed the press? and leave the spindle inplace.
trust me i tried on the 1st one lol i just wasnt able to spread it enough. I tried with pry bars and screwdrivers hammered in there, and when i would go to put the strut in, it would shoot out. If you have a different tool in mind than im all ears. I can picture a tool i would make to do exactly what you said, i just dont know if there is something out there like that
If I remember Ill let you know what works for me. I saw some guys just put a jack under the a-arm and push it right in. Im going to try that first.
Have you seen any lift kits. Or better, do you know if possible to change final drive ratio on vw 5speed
@@flashgordon3715 i tried that with the jack. but the knuckle kept flopping to one side and kinking the angle so it would just lift the car off the jacks. and no to both of your questions
Hazet strut tool will do the job. Available from most of the online euro part houses. Here's one, www.rmeuropean.com/Products/49121-MFG970-V1864.aspx
Sounds like knuckle spreader is key here... Also a spring compressor avoids all the disassembly on the passeng side.
Not that bad taking off knuckle. Just did this a couple days ago. Using a spring compressor is kind of a waste of time. Can take the knuckle off in like 20 min so no real need for compressors
You didn't necessarily have to buy that socket for the top hat. You can just impact it off, then on installation, use a 21mm spark plug socket, hold that with a pair of vice grips, and stick a allen key down the center of the socket.
i know. but this is so people see it with the right tools. i know how to workwith minimal stuff when needed lol but i gotcha.
Question new to VW Beetle world and planning to do this job. I have all the tools except the top hat 21mm special socket. I do have a 21mm sparkplug socket I'm sure I can zip the old nuts off with an impact, but the new Monroe shocks do not have an allen key hole for the install. I noticed your new shocks didn't have the allen key hole as-well so did you use vice grips to hold that stem or you just torqued it down once the vehicle tires were on the ground? I'm debating on just buying a deep offset 21mm wrench or ordering that socket $15, but even then Iooks like I gotta use some pointy vice grips. Please advise Thanks
i ussed one of those open sockets with a little wrech to hold the piston. it being a new shock, im sure yu can zip it on with an impact since there probably a litltle bit a friction since they are new.
@@hyr0llr Yes I see you used the open socket with the allen key for the removal, but you skipped the install of the new shocks with the new non allen piston so I was scratching my head as to what you used lol. I've been digging through all my little sockets and cannot find a socket that fits the piston head something between a 9 and 10mm. I tried a 3/8 but just spins so im gunna try to find a 8 point 1/4 socket or somehow make one by modifying a 9mm. None of my local hardware or autoparts stores carry a deep offset 21 or SAE equivalent wrench SMH and since I live in a rural area orders take way too long to get here so gunna try to make it work with the 21mm sparkplug socket don't wanna impact the new nut of the top hat I belive it's 44lbs don't wanna mess that up. Thanks for your response 👍
@@johnny4713ify yeah i apologize on foegetting the install. the mix of trying to do the job and recording the process gets a little confusing sometimes and miss some key footage. lol.....another "sketchy" thing you could try and do is get some small wide mouth vice grip and place them as far up on the piston in the wheel well as possible to hold the piston. and hopefully its just out of the working range if the shock seal.
@@hyr0llr Sketch to try lol. Well I'm actually hunting around the tool shed as we speak and got teased by a 22mm deep offset wrench SMH.
@@johnny4713ify also make sure its not a 22mm. because if i remember correctly, the new strut top nut is 1 size up from the original
Instead of using a press couldn't you use the weight of the car and a jack to press up? I'm about to try it so hopefully mine won't be as difficult as yours.
Technically yes you can. I was really sloppy with this repair, and didnt do it with the thought of people doing it at home without a press.
Was one of those repairs i got snagged up and used the tools i had to help,
@@hyr0llrI'm still trying to get the axle nut off. So don't take me too seriously.
@@dougcox835 honestly hwrbor freiight has one of my favorite tools in my box. Like a 3 foot breaker bar. Hasnt snapped a head yet
@@hyr0llrI have my own. Years ago I bought a 6' iron pipe (like for water) and that works perfectly. All the leverage you need and it only costs a few dollars. I did get the bearing off just now using that. Easy as pie. The only thing I had a problem with was that I was too timid to really lay into it. but it actually wasn't too much trouble at all.
Well just finished mine and I guess depend on the brand of the strut the strut doesn't go in that easy on my case I brought monroe I believe those are the same he used in this video took me like 3 hours on the passenger side and before you start doing this hob make sure you buy the spreader knuckle because if you not get it is going To be very difficult to getter in or out
Is it normal on beetles to feel every bump or is just me that's the reason I decided to change the shocks and struts all bushing are fine and a light with a car sliding came up is that related to the abs?
A short pry bar to spread the gap on the hub 👍🏼
Thank you. Nice one.
your welcome
Okay, so I'm new to owning a car. I got a used 2005 VW Beetle about a month ago, and it needs these replaced.
I don't know the first thing when it comes to cars, but I'm pretty good at figuring things out. My biggest worry is not having the correct part or tool needed at this point.
Can someone give a complete list of all the tools needed for this? I just want to make sure i'm prepped and have everything before starting to take my car apart.
if you are gonna do it they way i did in the video. the special tools you are gonna need are
spring compressors
schwaben 21/22 strut wrench( part #017822sch01a)
a press,( unless you have a friend with one)
and just metric wrenches, sockets and allen keys(hex key) set.
@@hyr0llr Thank you!
Thankfully, I don't need to mess with the spring. I just need to replace the whole assembly.
One more question (Maybe a few if they come up later), Can you get the struts at a parts store, or do you have to get them online?
@@redella50 from what i see, you can but they might have to order them and you might have to wait a day or 2. and i was trying to replace the asembly as a whole as you seen in the video, but like i said, the shock at the bottom didnt just slide in. thats why i did all the extra work with the spring compressor and press. hopefully the ones you buy just slude in.
Where did you get those specialty sockets for the beetle struts? (steeda or steada) May I please have a website or store name? (link to something)
www.steeda.com/Steeda-Strut-Socket-kit-5pc-17-18-19-21-and-22mm_p_15676.html
What size is the allen key?
i do bot remember off the top of my head, but probably a size between 7-10
I Just have to Say, at the Beginning of this job, a thorough visual inspection should be done on all the Suspension Critical parts! When you noticed the Broken Control Arm (Rubber) Bushing, and all the Parts that are still not tightened up,, This is the time to Buy a New (or both) Lower Control arm(s)! The New '*CONTROL' Arms comes with a new Ball joint, and *Bushings ready to be installed! This Beetle needed to stay on the jack stands till the new parts are/were in!
you took a half hour job on one strut and made it 2 hours + lol
you mean because of the whole spring removal?
Pretty much...
@@nicholassmith5332 so you didnt see when i said just trying to press the knuckle onto the new shock, it kept binding?
@jack mehaugh Didnt have chisels or a thinck screwdriver at the time. But yeah i understand the procedure. Thank you.
The Torque specs, do you have those?
i dont sorry. its easy to find them online though.
And like the other TH-camr said, thanks for lowering the volume. Replaced my trunk lid last night, used my impact and almost made myself deaf from impacting it too close to my ears.
haha yeah ive been there. impacting strut mount with the head in the wheel well, yeah not fun.
Seems as though the steering knuckle is spread way out for the strut..
Thanks for the video but it's a lot of works.
Never used a press in 45 years of doing shockers just spread the hub easy
What a load of old bollocks this is....Is it possibly a wind up?....There's absolutely no need to remove the brake callipers or the disc or the track rod....That "tool" he bought cannot physically work ffs!..
I think what you did with the press and wrench was very dangerous
Driver side is making that exact same noises 😂
this guy is a joke bad mechanic