2008-2012 Ninja 250 Fork Seal Replacement same as CBR 250 Fork Seal Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- Complete disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly of Ninja 250 fork. This process is specific to 2008-2012 EX250. EX250 07 and earlier is very similar. CBR250 and other small bikes are also very similar.
All Balls Racing
Oil Seals 55-111 (37x50x11)
Dust Seals 57-109
Bushings Kit 38-6103
Oil
Kayaba SS-8 ( I use 10w - Maxima Zero Friction - Blue Label)
Oil viscosity is based on riding style, weight, suspension setup, etc
Oil Amount when changing - 310 mL
Oil amount when disassembling and completely dry 360mL +- 2.5 ml
Fork Oil Level (air gap) 108mm +- 2mm (fully compressed, spring removed)
Fork spring free length 420mm, service limit 412mm
Tech specs at beginning of video.
Link to manual - Suspension in Chapter 13
mototh.com/file...
All Balls Racing: 38-6103
All Balls Racing: 56-123 (w/dust seals) or 55-111 (oil seals only)
Intro, Specs, Tools Needed: 00:01-02:53
Removal: 02:53- 04:14
Disassembly: 04:15-09:26
Cleaning: 09:27-10:25
Reassembly: 10:26- END - กีฬา
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 83 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "พันฤทธิ์ vs ซุปเปอร์บอล วันของโอม MBK"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1b4pkKHa_Fk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for such a detail, well explained and edited tutorial. There is so much garbage content on this specific topic. I wish your video was first on search results.
Thank you for saying that. I'm glad it was helpful to you. Take care! JY
Lightning Motorsports I just did maintenance on mine. Thanks to you it went way smoother than I thought it was going to be. You the man! Cheers✌️
Covered all of what I wanted to know about this. I was able to rebuild my forks in about 4 hours. This video helped me.
Such a clear and straightforward explanation, thanks for this!
I love your music taste! Porter Robinson and deadmau5 rule
About to do this job on my ninja. This just made my day a whole lot easier! Thank you!
No Problem - nice job with the DIY attitude.
Just wanted to say thank you for this freakin great video. This + another video + service manuals and I've now completely rebuilt my track bike forks with ohlins cartridges. Much appreciated!!!
this video was awesome. it was a total life saver after I had to replace the seals in the forks
Thank god you make this as detailed as possible. Thank you sir
thank you buddy, this was the kinda video I was looking for not with too much hope because its too specific topic and here you are uploading this nice tuto. However, I am kinda worried about the amount of torque that each bold needs. Thanks again, well done!
Great video. No B.S. Great workmanship 👍🏻
Last thing I did before storing my Ninja 250 forks for several years was rebuild them with new oil, seals, crush washers, and some preload spacers. They ended up leaking everywhere in storage. Not sure what I did wrong but I recall that the bottom fork bolts (damper bolts) had some kind of tape in the thread that didn’t survive the rebuild and didn’t seem like it could be expected to.
Obviously, l didn’t want to go without the thread tape stuff if it was needed but there was no mention of the tape in the factory or Haynes manuals. I was also following a forum guide and got no answers there about the tape either (explicitly asked). I could only conclude that it must not be important if so many have rebuilt their forks without replacing or mentioning it. Heck, I’ve even watched other Ninja 250 fork rebuilds with no mention.
The point is, I did my due diligence and yet my gut instinct is that the thread tape needed to be replaced after all. That would explain why they came out of storage dripping in oil. Do I just buy some plumber tape and use that? Is it even the same thing?
I guess I will also need more fork oil and new crush washers for those bolts.
Typically, loctite is used. I've never seen anyone use plumbers tape. If your forks leaked oil during storage, sounds like there was a bigger problem as a result of the rebuild.
@@LightningMotorsportsAZ thanks. They actually stayed vertical in the corner of my workshop for the first few years and I never noticed any leaking. They were later wrapped in plastic and stored horizontally in a storage unit which is where I found them swimming in oil.
Single owner. No previous rebuild. First year model of Kawasaki using those forks (2008). Used an impact on the bottom fork bolts to remove. Pretty sure I torqued to spec. Maybe I’ll get that Bikemaster tool for holding the damper rod!
It very important to watch from the beginning if anybody try DIY in 1st time.
I learned. Very well. Excellent publication. Thanks very much. Merci beaucoup, muchas gracias. 😊
Great video! So straight forward and informative! I should have watch this one first instead of letting other videos in the search result page scare me. But I do have a questions here: I have a 2015 Ninja 300 (EX300) and I bought a Fork Cylinder Holder Adapter (Model Number 57001-1057) and a Adapter Handle (Model Number 57001-183) because I saw another video used this special tool. However, that hex bolt on the bottom of the fork requires way more torque than I thought and this special tool did not do anything for me. Is it a real necessary tool for this job? Or I can simply do what you did (using an air impact)? And the even worse thing is that the hex bolt is about to be stripped...
Hi there,
Bummer you spent all of that money on those Kawasaki holding tools. BikeMaster makes a damper rod holding tool for $20 that you put ratchet extensions on to get into the fork tube and get a bite on the damper rod to prevent it from spinning. If you don't have a damper rod holding tool, sometimes re-inserting the fork spring and putting downward pressure on the spring is enough friction to prevent it from spinning while you loosen the bottom allen bolt. I have the damper rod holding tool, but most of the time I can get them off by just pushing down on the fork spring. As for the bolt, if you've stripped the head - that's going to be difficult to get off. If you can still get a bite on the hex, I would order EZ Grip Friction Drops, Aircraft Grade and put that into the bolt head before inserting your allen wrench. If a bolt head starts to strip on me while I'm working, I immediately stop and get these drops before I continue to attempt removal. These EZ Grip Friction Drops have saved me in my shop multiple times. Good luck
@@LightningMotorsportsAZ Thank you so much for the detailed reply! I will give EZ Grip a try.
@@anthonyli6810 if you can't get it with that, the bolt will probably require drill and extraction. If you're not familiar with that tool/process, you might want to pay someone to do it. That would be cheaper than if you ruined the fork leg or internals
I’d like to see this other video which used that tool. Do you remember what to search for? Thanks!
Great video mate 👍
thanks! very useful instructions!
Thank you for the video, I will replace oil bearing. It is good to me.
I have some questions for tool and parts
What's size Allan key to remove Allan bolt.
Is it necessary to replace bushing?
Thanks
your video is great. I have a question. just a fork change seal. I have one fork that lose oil. I need change both seal ir just one. Thanks
Hello, It is possible to only change one. I DO NOT recommend only changing/refreshing one fork. Your front end suspension should be kept as similar as possible. You don't want different oil levels and conditions in the forks if you can avoid it.
Thanks for the tutorial
Best video ive seen ill be rebuilding mine this winter and ill be watching this video again when i do it. Thank you. what oil did you use? im looking for good oil now.
Maxima
Lightning Motorsports that’s what I was looking at and have in my cart. Was it the dirt bike or the regular 10w?
10 WT if you're riding normal.. 15w if aggressive. I prefer blue label maxima which is zero friction.
Lightning Motorsports Maxima (59901-15) 235/150 Grade 15WT Zero Drag Formula Racing Fork Fluid - 1 Liter? Amazon $20?
Loved the video , was wondering what an acceptable price to pay at a repair shop would be ? Thx , I called a couple places and they wanted to charge an arm and a leg . I have a car 250 ,nothing fancy ..
I can't speak for other shops but I know this job is fairly quick/easy. You can save money if you remove the forks and bring them to a tech/shop instead of the entire bike. You can ship me your forks and I'll rebuild them for you if you can't find anyone
Where did you get the part’s again? I’m getting ready to tackle this on my 09 ninja 250r and I’m having issues on finding a rebuild kit and there’s a few other leaks I’m starting to have
All Balls Racing
Hello, I would like to know how much oil each fork takes?
Great video
I want to get this done but I am sure that nobody will do such a thorough job as this one. Is there any way to increase my chances of the job being done this well?
1. Do the work yourself
2. Have someone perform the work that is reputable (ask other riders)
3. Ship them to me and I'll do them
How Much?
Good info
Question I put clip ons that mount to the triple tree top. The shocks go thru the top of the clip ons. Is that safe?
I'd have to see it. The most important thing to be cognizant of is that the clamps abd clip ons are torqued correctly and how much you're lowering/raising the front end by adjusting how far the forks are coming up through the triple tree
Engine oil seal available
Does ninja 300 2014 have same oil seal as ninja 250 ?
Yes. 37x50x11
Hey bro, what size are the fork seal? 37x50x11? mm?
For ninja 250/ 2010 35x50x11
sir is the for oil seal is same as cbr?
Which model cbr?
@@LightningMotorsportsAZ cbr250r
i have ninja 250r 2010 i want to change fork oil seal and dust seal
@@LightningMotorsportsAZ i didn't find ninja250 oil & dust seal in my area i want to know the equivalent
The Fork Oil Seal Size for a CBR250 and a Ninja 250 is 37x50x11. All Balls Racing 55-111
@@LightningMotorsportsAZ thank you sir
Song at 6:20?
Deadmau5 - I remember
sir eska shorume kaha pe hai