Yet again another awesome video from a reloading legend!!!!!! Thanks very much mate, can’t wait to set up my press and get started loading some rounds. Thanks again mate, keep up the great work, and thanks heaps for sharing your knowledge with us newbies.
@@mshaw290808mi I am just thankful for all the great information! A few camera bumps don't hurt anything at all. You have saved me a TON of time with this press.
I just finished a project that I replaced the Lee primer system with a tube feed system that many other manufactures use. Have put 200 rounds through the system with no problems. Plan on putting up a video within a week.
I load 9MM but can’t seem to get my bullets to pass the plunk test only randomly- I followed your die setup / I thought a Lee resizing die might solve this issue-I’ve tried fiddling with the decapper first die by setting it deeper with limited success/my Lee 1000 is quite old but that shouldn’t affect sizing the brass??? Any suggestions please?
First question would be which plunk test? I just took ten rounds; took out the barrel in my semi automatic and every one very easily passed the plunk test. Next I took out my Lyman 9mm Cartridge Gauges D13, every round dropped into the gauge, but 9 out of 10 would not drop out, they had to be given a light rap on the table and then they instantly fell out. Next thoroughly cleaned all rounds and the gage and and 8 out of 10 dropped out without rapping on the table. Many people on the forums say if the rounds pass the plunk test in the barrel and they feed you are good to go. I have found that the last die (the one that sets bullet and crimps) is the one that controls the bulge on the finished round. If you are having problems with the barrel plunk test the last thing to do would be to adjust your OAL, SAMMI spec is 1.000" to 1.169". I have never used a resizing die, but if you go onto one of the reloading forums and ask about them you should get some helpful information. Hope this helps.
When I first started reloading years ago I went to the store and about the only thing they had was Alliant green dot. Not to long after that It was no longer recommended, but it worked me so I kept using it. I am using Missouri Bullet Company 115 gr round nose hi-tek coating. I do almost all of my shooting at ten yards so these work find for me.
I noticed when you set up your crimping and seating die that you just had the crimp touch the shell, I have seen other videos that show them turning it 1/4 turn in after it hits the case. Why arent you doing that? I was having trouble with setting up my die till now.. Thank you in advance. P.S. I just did that thing with the nylon spacer in the top of the press, it works great!!!!
When I first started loading I did turn the die down 1/4 of a turn. It caused the brass shell to neck in at the middle or to get a hour glass figure which is a sign of over crimping. When I rotated the die up 1/4 of a turn the over crimping went away. I looked inside of my crimping die and the top of the brass shell pretty much hits a flat circular ring ( not a tapered surface) inside the die. So if you turn the die 1/4 down further the flat circular ring the brass shell hits does not force the flared sides of the shell flat against the bullet. Instead it crushes the brass shell down creating a hour glass shape in the brass shell. Glad you found the nylon insert in the turret helpful. I was surprised when I found it and also surprised at how much it helped. My press has about 10,000 rounds through it so I cannot say if it had that much slop in the rotating stage when I got it. Does a new press have that much slop in it or does that happen with time?
Mine wasent new i bought it used and it had that much slop in it as well. I am now working on the primer feed system you put together. your videos have helped me a lot. I was about ready to just sell this press and buy a Dillon.
Hallo Sir. I have a problem with the primer rod that pushes the primer into the shell, it does not go down far enough for the primer to slide on top of it. The primer stop against the rod when sliding down the shoot.
The dies that Lee sells are carbide and they claim you don't have to lube your cases. With the pre carbide dies they would wear out more quickly without your cases being lubed. But if you lube the cases they will go into and out of the dies much easier with barely any sticking. I have a plastic box I modified so when the top is taken off the box is about a quarter of an inch deep. In the bottom of the box is a rag moistened with the same oil I use in my pneumatic tools. This oil I already had,works great and does not have a bad smell to it. I put the cases on the rag then take the flat of my hand and roll them side to side tell they get a light coating of oil.
I am having problems with the shell plate not rotating, i have replaced both nylon gears and zeroed it out per Lee and the shell plate still will not rotate.
I have looked at my press and the only way I could duplicate your problem was by having the action rod/indexing rod upside down. One end of the action/indexing rod has a twist in it and it points down when assembled. Hope this helps.
yes the indexing rod was and is installed correctly. I have replaced the drive nut and indexing rod also installed a new hex racket gear. I loaded over 200 last night with very little issues. Thank you for all the helpful videos that you have made on this press. What are your thoughts on a aluminum hex racket gear? I have a newer Lee pro 1000 with the indexing hole in the shell plate and the alignment pin, so when the timing is off the pin doesn't let the shell plate carrier to bottom out. But I think you could possibly strip the nylon gear if you pressed really hard on the down stroke.
Excellent detailed thorough explanation!
Yet again another awesome video from a reloading legend!!!!!! Thanks very much mate, can’t wait to set up my press and get started loading some rounds. Thanks again mate, keep up the great work, and thanks heaps for sharing your knowledge with us newbies.
Thanks for prompt response-I’ll try adjusting OAL - now 1:15
You are welcome. One last tip (if you are not already doing it) is make sure your cases are well lubed/oiled before putting them into the press.
Good video guy, helped me a bunch!!
Always helpful. Thank you!
For depriming you might like the Lee APP press. It is great for depriming and sizing lead bullets
Great tutorial!
I feel like I should send you a tripod for all the good information!
I did finally get a nice tripod so hopefully my next video will have less camera bumps and jostling.
@@mshaw290808mi I am just thankful for all the great information! A few camera bumps don't hurt anything at all.
You have saved me a TON of time with this press.
Thank you. Are you still making new content .
I just finished a project that I replaced the Lee primer system with a tube feed system that many other manufactures use. Have put 200 rounds through the system with no problems. Plan on putting up a video within a week.
NotAnExpert would love to see that. Subscribed. Primer feed is one of my only complaints and I’ve even gotten it to a minimum.
I load 9MM but can’t seem to get my bullets to pass the plunk test only randomly- I followed your die setup / I thought a Lee resizing die might solve this issue-I’ve tried fiddling with the decapper first die by setting it deeper with limited success/my Lee 1000 is quite old but that shouldn’t affect sizing the brass??? Any suggestions please?
First question would be which plunk test? I just took ten rounds; took out the barrel in my semi automatic and every one very easily passed the plunk test. Next I took out my Lyman 9mm Cartridge Gauges D13, every round dropped into the gauge, but 9 out of 10 would not drop out, they had to be given a light rap on the table and then they instantly fell out. Next thoroughly cleaned all rounds and the gage and and 8 out of 10 dropped out without rapping on the table. Many people on the forums say if the rounds pass the plunk test in the barrel and they feed you are good to go. I have found that the last die (the one that sets bullet and crimps) is the one that controls the bulge on the finished round. If you are having problems with the barrel plunk test the last thing to do would be to adjust your OAL, SAMMI spec is 1.000" to 1.169". I have never used a resizing die, but if you go onto one of the reloading forums and ask about them you should get some helpful information. Hope this helps.
What powder and bullet do you use ? Good video. Thank you.
When I first started reloading years ago I went to the store and about the only thing they had was Alliant green dot. Not to long after that It was no longer recommended, but it worked me so I kept using it. I am using Missouri Bullet Company 115 gr round nose hi-tek coating. I do almost all of my shooting at ten yards so these work find for me.
If i change from 9mm to 45acp do i have to change the plate carrier also or just the plate to 45acp?
I do not load 45 but I believe there are significant things to change and adjust. Sorry I don't know of any videos showing how to do the changes.
I think there are
I noticed when you set up your crimping and seating die that you just had the crimp touch the shell, I have seen other videos that show them turning it 1/4 turn in after it hits the case. Why arent you doing that? I was having trouble with setting up my die till now.. Thank you in advance. P.S. I just did that thing with the nylon spacer in the top of the press, it works great!!!!
When I first started loading I did turn the die down 1/4 of a turn. It caused the brass shell to neck in at the middle or to get a hour glass figure which is a sign of over crimping. When I rotated the die up 1/4 of a turn the over crimping went away. I looked inside of my crimping die and the top of the brass shell pretty much hits a flat circular ring ( not a tapered surface) inside the die. So if you turn the die 1/4 down further the flat circular ring the brass shell hits does not force the flared sides of the shell flat against the bullet. Instead it crushes the brass shell down creating a hour glass shape in the brass shell.
Glad you found the nylon insert in the turret helpful. I was surprised when I found it and also surprised at how much it helped. My press has about 10,000 rounds through it so I cannot say if it had that much slop in the rotating stage when I got it. Does a new press have that much slop in it or does that happen with time?
Mine wasent new i bought it used and it had that much slop in it as well. I am now working on the primer feed system you put together. your videos have helped me a lot. I was about ready to just sell this press and buy a Dillon.
Hallo Sir. I have a problem with the primer rod that pushes the primer into the shell, it does not go down far enough for the primer to slide on top of it. The primer stop against the rod when sliding down the shoot.
This pin can be put in upside down, check this first.
I'm having trouble where my cases are getting stuck (not completely) in the decapping die and the charge die. How can I fix this?
The dies that Lee sells are carbide and they claim you don't have to lube your cases. With the pre carbide dies they would wear out more quickly without your cases being lubed. But if you lube the cases they will go into and out of the dies much easier with barely any sticking. I have a plastic box I modified so when the top is taken off the box is about a quarter of an inch deep. In the bottom of the box is a rag moistened with the same oil I use in my pneumatic tools. This oil I already had,works great and does not have a bad smell to it. I put the cases on the rag then take the flat of my hand and roll them side to side tell they get a light coating of oil.
Thank you very much. This solved my problem@@mshaw290808mi
I am having problems with the shell plate not rotating, i have replaced both nylon gears and zeroed it out per Lee and the shell plate still will not rotate.
I have looked at my press and the only way I could duplicate your problem was by having the action rod/indexing rod upside down. One end of the action/indexing rod has a twist in it and it points down when assembled. Hope this helps.
yes the indexing rod was and is installed correctly. I have replaced the drive nut and indexing rod also installed a new hex racket gear. I loaded over 200 last night with very little issues. Thank you for all the helpful videos that you have made on this press. What are your thoughts on a aluminum hex racket gear? I have a newer Lee pro 1000 with the indexing hole in the shell plate and the alignment pin, so when the timing is off the pin doesn't let the shell plate carrier to bottom out. But I think you could possibly strip the nylon gear if you pressed really hard on the down stroke.