One leg might make you uneasy but you only have one belay device, one carabiner and one rope connecting you to the anchor. Only safe to do with zero chance of shock loading the anchor. I believe he felt safe to do so because he was firmly on a ledge
There are different possible methods in multipitch climbing an I appreciate watching videos of people like you who have their approaches tried and tested, thanks! Personally I now prefer autolocking carabiners on the belay station because it won‘t take much longer if you are used to them and provides a lot more safety.
Something to be mindful of is tying the clove off of the break strand of the belay device when your partner arrives. If you were to try a one handed clove like you did prior, and the partner were to fall, you could accidentally create a redirect that defeats the breaking. IMO it’s better to tie the clove with the climbers end after adding a catastrophe knot. In this context the odds of this happening are low but something people should be aware of! Otherwise amazing video!
Wow. Best video out there for simple and clear anchor management. I feel like the simplicity of the setup is an essential thing to minimize mistakes, mostly overlooked in other videos of this type.
After doing multi pitch myself, I can appreciate more rhe triple use of the quick draw on the lwft anchor: initial protection, rope full and leaderbfirat clip.
Works pretty much the same all the way. Instead of having bolts in the wall you would equalize the sling between all the anchor points that you have placed with trad gear (friends, cams, nuts, you name it). Always try to put weight on "good" anchor points (read good bolts, hooks etc.) first though, before putting weight on "bad" anchor points (friends, cams, nuts etc.). That way you're creating redundancy in your multi-point-anchor, should the good anchor point fail. Equalization is key in all these scenarios.
Great vid. If you’re not on a ledge with a ton of space, is it safe when the second is climbing up that you take the slack and stack it over the part of the rope where you’ve tied your clove hitch?
Really good explanation and super useful video. I do wonder if it’s better to clip the quick draw facing in the opposite direction. With the gate facing outwards, If the leader falls, there is a chance the rope clips out the gate. This would result in a factor 2 fall. Is there a reason he clipped an outward facing draw?
watch any professional sport climbing video out there. The gates are rarely facing a specific orientation in relation to intended path of climbing. It's somewhat of a myth with facing gates towards or away from where you intend to climb. As long as you're not backclipping you're good. I've never heard of a gate coming unclipped with that being the reason. gates do come unclipped, but usually for other reason such as backclipping or using alpine draws extended.
The quickdraw is clipped to a bolt so it can't actually "face" out or "in" only left or right (you need to think about the direction of travel Witt which way the gate is facing).
At 1:00 - what if you're not on a ledge but hanging on the rope (rope under tension)? How do you move the quickdraw to open it for the sling? (not that I'm inclined to do this under this scenario I'm describing...seems sketchy).
Hey Chris, why do you use non-lockers on the anchors? Isn't it safer to use locking carabiners? I'm interested in your opinion on this, because in Belgium they teach us to use locking carabiners when building anchors..
I'm not Chris, but there are a few reasons a lot of guides (and non-guides) do not use locking carabiners to attach the anchor to the bolts (or trad gear). The first reason is that while the anchor is being directly observed any issues can be managed should they arise. If during a fall and an upward load on the anchor were to unseat one or both of the carabiners (I dont think this has ever happened unless the carabiner was not properly installed), the belayer could actually reach over and fix it. So, it is not strictly necessary. In a top rope scenario, the anchor remains unmonitored for long periods of time and so using lockers is still advised in that situation. The second reason for not using lockers to attach the anchor to the bolts is because lockers do no add a significant amount of strength or redundancy in that situation. Bolts limit the range of motion of any carabiner attached to them and so the circumstances where a snapgate carabiner could be torqued open to failure (think: rock fall not a climber fall) would also lead to a similar failure in a locking carabiner. The third reason is that if you are guiding, and you want to be prepared for rescuing your client (or partner if you aren't a guide), you will need at least 3 locking carabiners to safely escape belay, and affect a rappel (1 is already being used to attach yourself to the anchor, another is already being used to attach the belay device, and at least one other will be needed to transfer the climbers rope to during the belay escape). Two to three lockers are already tied up in the anchor - your attachment point, the attachment for the guide plate, and possible a third if you are belaying in guide mode or using a carabiner master point (4 if you are doing both). Add 2 more lockers, and you are carrying at least 6 lockers with at least 2 being permanently tied up in maintaining an anchor. If you plan on carrying spares, you can easily get up to 8 to 10 lockers....it's too much. In many scenarios, especially under loads where there is near constant tension (even when you might expect dynamic loading) snap gate carabiners are super safe enough. Sorry for the essay, but I thought I would give you a thorough answer. Climb safe!
@@arnoldkotlyarevsky383 Hey Arnold (aka not Chris)! Thank you so much for this explanation, this is exactly what I needed. A good, clear answer with reasons why you do it. Thank you for your time!
@@arnoldkotlyarevsky383 More a rationalization from a guide's perspective, than justifiable from an actual safety standpoint. I also dislike his distance from the anchors, especially choosing to belay off the harness and not directly from the anchor, as is becoming standard in parts of Europe. Lockers are now very light, and quick to use; I've seen standard biners unclip in the most bizarre ways, and a rotated wiregate versus a locked biner in a bolt eye is going to fail in a hard fall, and no one has any ability to react in the split seconds to correct anything. He's getting yanked 6-8 feet up and slammed hard into the wall, compromising his belay hand rope control. That he may do this 50 times without issue changes nothing, regarding the potential for a possible belay failure.
Woah! That was so slick. Especially the quickdraw as one of the non-lockers in the anchor, and pulling the rope up through it. I have a couple questions as I'm getting into multipitches. When you're clovehitching yourself in to the anchor you just built, you have to pull slack to tie it. What if you don't feel super secure to get slack? Would you just use your leash (tight)? Same when your second is coming up. You still have her on belay and you're tying her clove hitch. What if she wasn't on an awesome ledge? Tying someone's clovehitch while I'm still belaying them isn't super comfortable for me. She could tie her own clovehitch but she'd need slack. Are leashes the solution to this? You can't dynamically load them. So you'd have to make sure you clip them in with tension on them.
I’m not the biggest fan of this video. Climbing is to be redundant. He only had one anchor point on the hot point. He should have had a 2nd on the shelf of the anchor. Petzal has an adjustable PAS. It’s about $60, and totally worth it. I find when people are uncomfortable with a clove hitch, they tend to tie a Munter hitch by accident. Also I didn’t like the ATC placement. Again, it was placed on the hot point, if it failed, both climbers would take a fall.
@@chrisrichardson5641 you want to use a PAS in addition to being secured with a clove-hitch? Only being secured on a clove-hitch with your rope is perfectly fine and normal practice. If you can't trust your rope I don't know what to tell ya ;)
I think non-locking carabiners aren't much safer than locking one. If you are at the anchor and your foot slip you may be grabbing one of your carabiner that can open and get out. I think is better to use everytime locking carabiners.
@@mirovrana7163 it might be difficult but many of anchors/belays are on ledges. At least where i climb. And still, i just dont get that it's a "big big faul". If it's on a wall it's still ok because of the points above. But by all means, he could had tied in at the other bolt first or something if it had been a more sketchy working position
Not an issue because he’s still on belay at that point. If you’re nervous about taking off the quickdraw, you can girth hitch the sling to the top carabiner.
And I suppose you girth hitch slings to bolts instead of using quick draws? Metal on metal is not only fine, it is perfectly safe in almost all scenarios. There are two scenarios where you should not use metal on metal: snapgate to snapgate, or snapgate to locker where the carabiners can move freely with respect to each other. That is the only time they can mutually torque gates open.
2:30 till 2:50 is not "super good enough" for me... he's gonna fall the distance of the slack he just took into his lap...if anything were to happen... Better to attach your friend to the ATC, before removing him from that top Quickdraw. Im surprised no one else thinks this
Pure cr*p. The kind of misinformation that works great without any knowledge. Many mistakes, you shold be more careful before uploading videos like that.
![[Watch Party] APL 2024 รอบ 8 ทีมสุดท้าย ไทยต้องแชมป์ !](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NctOkvaex-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![[MIRRORED] LISA - ROCKSTAR 🎸 MV version #LISA #BLACKPINK #ROCKSTAR](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-U58DuCCtZk/mqdefault.jpg)
Woah! One of the most short and easy to understand anchor managment video
Great design. The only sketchy moment was when a left anchor carabiner used as personal protection was briefly opened to connect the quad.
no kidding. my stomach gurgled when I saw that.
I mean 1/3 of 22KN is still ~7KN so that thing will still hold ~1400 lb while its open and hes not climbing 🤔
One leg might make you uneasy but you only have one belay device, one carabiner and one rope connecting you to the anchor. Only safe to do with zero chance of shock loading the anchor. I believe he felt safe to do so because he was firmly on a ledge
There are different possible methods in multipitch climbing an I appreciate watching videos of people like you who have their approaches tried and tested, thanks!
Personally I now prefer autolocking carabiners on the belay station because it won‘t take much longer if you are used to them and provides a lot more safety.
Something to be mindful of is tying the clove off of the break strand of the belay device when your partner arrives. If you were to try a one handed clove like you did prior, and the partner were to fall, you could accidentally create a redirect that defeats the breaking. IMO it’s better to tie the clove with the climbers end after adding a catastrophe knot. In this context the odds of this happening are low but something people should be aware of! Otherwise amazing video!
Wow. Best video out there for simple and clear anchor management. I feel like the simplicity of the setup is an essential thing to minimize mistakes, mostly overlooked in other videos of this type.
I have literally watch all of them on TH-cam and this video is by far the most helpful! Straight to the poiny and easy to follow. Thank you
I was just about to say the same thing! Still the best one out there.
Simple, efficient and easy to understand! Thanks a lot.
This was crazy awsome to learn. very simple and effective teaching . Other videos are just very long
Short and to the point. Good job
Very helpful. Short and sweet.
Damn that’s slick. Great video!
Hey. This is really awesome. Insanely efficient. Make more videos!
Great video. Cheers.
This is great!
Thank you for the video
After doing multi pitch myself, I can appreciate more rhe triple use of the quick draw on the lwft anchor: initial protection, rope full and leaderbfirat clip.
Awesome!
Best video on the subject on youtube!
10 * 18 = 3 hrs. Wow. Thanks for helping us do the math!
Also. Dang. Great system. Well explained, thanks!
Good stuff
Awesome content ! Would love to see a trad belay station :)
Works pretty much the same all the way.
Instead of having bolts in the wall you would equalize the sling between all the anchor points that you have placed with trad gear (friends, cams, nuts, you name it).
Always try to put weight on "good" anchor points (read good bolts, hooks etc.) first though, before putting weight on "bad" anchor points (friends, cams, nuts etc.). That way you're creating redundancy in your multi-point-anchor, should the good anchor point fail. Equalization is key in all these scenarios.
What's up with the flipped around ATC? I've seen both positions in different videos.
Great vid.
If you’re not on a ledge with a ton of space, is it safe when the second is climbing up that you take the slack and stack it over the part of the rope where you’ve tied your clove hitch?
Yep, that's typical to stack it there, loop left and right. Start long and get progressively shorter to avoid the loops getting caught in each other.
Do you use two mammut slings ?
hell yeah
Really good explanation and super useful video.
I do wonder if it’s better to clip the quick draw facing in the opposite direction. With the gate facing outwards, If the leader falls, there is a chance the rope clips out the gate. This would result in a factor 2 fall.
Is there a reason he clipped an outward facing draw?
watch any professional sport climbing video out there. The gates are rarely facing a specific orientation in relation to intended path of climbing. It's somewhat of a myth with facing gates towards or away from where you intend to climb. As long as you're not backclipping you're good. I've never heard of a gate coming unclipped with that being the reason. gates do come unclipped, but usually for other reason such as backclipping or using alpine draws extended.
The quickdraw is clipped to a bolt so it can't actually "face" out or "in" only left or right (you need to think about the direction of travel Witt which way the gate is facing).
one quick safety question: shouldn't the quickdraw gates face the opposite direction of your climb ?
At 1:00 - what if you're not on a ledge but hanging on the rope (rope under tension)? How do you move the quickdraw to open it for the sling? (not that I'm inclined to do this under this scenario I'm describing...seems sketchy).
Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the ATC upside down like that, it won't auto-lock?
Where is this?
Hey Chris, why do you use non-lockers on the anchors? Isn't it safer to use locking carabiners? I'm interested in your opinion on this, because in Belgium they teach us to use locking carabiners when building anchors..
I'm not Chris, but there are a few reasons a lot of guides (and non-guides) do not use locking carabiners to attach the anchor to the bolts (or trad gear). The first reason is that while the anchor is being directly observed any issues can be managed should they arise. If during a fall and an upward load on the anchor were to unseat one or both of the carabiners (I dont think this has ever happened unless the carabiner was not properly installed), the belayer could actually reach over and fix it. So, it is not strictly necessary. In a top rope scenario, the anchor remains unmonitored for long periods of time and so using lockers is still advised in that situation. The second reason for not using lockers to attach the anchor to the bolts is because lockers do no add a significant amount of strength or redundancy in that situation. Bolts limit the range of motion of any carabiner attached to them and so the circumstances where a snapgate carabiner could be torqued open to failure (think: rock fall not a climber fall) would also lead to a similar failure in a locking carabiner. The third reason is that if you are guiding, and you want to be prepared for rescuing your client (or partner if you aren't a guide), you will need at least 3 locking carabiners to safely escape belay, and affect a rappel (1 is already being used to attach yourself to the anchor, another is already being used to attach the belay device, and at least one other will be needed to transfer the climbers rope to during the belay escape). Two to three lockers are already tied up in the anchor - your attachment point, the attachment for the guide plate, and possible a third if you are belaying in guide mode or using a carabiner master point (4 if you are doing both). Add 2 more lockers, and you are carrying at least 6 lockers with at least 2 being permanently tied up in maintaining an anchor. If you plan on carrying spares, you can easily get up to 8 to 10 lockers....it's too much. In many scenarios, especially under loads where there is near constant tension (even when you might expect dynamic loading) snap gate carabiners are super safe enough.
Sorry for the essay, but I thought I would give you a thorough answer. Climb safe!
@@arnoldkotlyarevsky383 Hey Arnold (aka not Chris)! Thank you so much for this explanation, this is exactly what I needed. A good, clear answer with reasons why you do it. Thank you for your time!
@@arnoldkotlyarevsky383 More a rationalization from a guide's perspective, than justifiable from an actual safety standpoint. I also dislike his distance from the anchors, especially choosing to belay off the harness and not directly from the anchor, as is becoming standard in parts of Europe. Lockers are now very light, and quick to use; I've seen standard biners unclip in the most bizarre ways, and a rotated wiregate versus a locked biner in a bolt eye is going to fail in a hard fall, and no one has any ability to react in the split seconds to correct anything. He's getting yanked 6-8 feet up and slammed hard into the wall, compromising his belay hand rope control. That he may do this 50 times without issue changes nothing, regarding the potential for a possible belay failure.
Woah! That was so slick. Especially the quickdraw as one of the non-lockers in the anchor, and pulling the rope up through it.
I have a couple questions as I'm getting into multipitches. When you're clovehitching yourself in to the anchor you just built, you have to pull slack to tie it. What if you don't feel super secure to get slack? Would you just use your leash (tight)?
Same when your second is coming up. You still have her on belay and you're tying her clove hitch. What if she wasn't on an awesome ledge? Tying someone's clovehitch while I'm still belaying them isn't super comfortable for me. She could tie her own clovehitch but she'd need slack.
Are leashes the solution to this? You can't dynamically load them. So you'd have to make sure you clip them in with tension on them.
I’m not the biggest fan of this video. Climbing is to be redundant. He only had one anchor point on the hot point. He should have had a 2nd on the shelf of the anchor. Petzal has an adjustable PAS. It’s about $60, and totally worth it. I find when people are uncomfortable with a clove hitch, they tend to tie a Munter hitch by accident. Also I didn’t like the ATC placement. Again, it was placed on the hot point, if it failed, both climbers would take a fall.
@@chrisrichardson5641 you want to use a PAS in addition to being secured with a clove-hitch? Only being secured on a clove-hitch with your rope is perfectly fine and normal practice. If you can't trust your rope I don't know what to tell ya ;)
@@scottmckenzie5220 I think standard practice is redundancy.
Why not use the top shelf for PAS and belay off the main anchor point? Seems like it's managed better that way.
The thumbnail had me thinking I was going to have coffee with Scott Adams.
"Follow the links" There are no links :(
thats a cool helmet
I think non-locking carabiners aren't much safer than locking one. If you are at the anchor and your foot slip you may be grabbing one of your carabiner that can open and get out.
I think is better to use everytime locking carabiners.
Metal on metal, there should never be - but otherwise great vid.
1:00 somebody explain. He taking out the bolt the express where he is resting.
exactly
0:59!!!!!!!!! big big faul
its not that big of a fault (if you are thinking of opening the carbine). he is still on belay and there are bolts under him
@@jonasnicolaysen8019 he is standing on the ground. He has both hands free. Try to do it with one hand from climbing position.
@@mirovrana7163 it might be difficult but many of anchors/belays are on ledges. At least where i climb.
And still, i just dont get that it's a "big big faul". If it's on a wall it's still ok because of the points above.
But by all means, he could had tied in at the other bolt first or something if it had been a more sketchy working position
@@jonasnicolaysen8019 He is teaching bad methodology. And that could be very dangerous. There are many bad details and every one could be deadly.
Not an issue because he’s still on belay at that point. If you’re nervous about taking off the quickdraw, you can girth hitch the sling to the top carabiner.
Every knot closes the system and weakens it by 50% ! Best bet to tie master point with a Clove Hitch !
He has barely said how important it is to be safe and he opens the left carabiner and even takes it off to pull the loop through. Thats so bad.
Metal on metal
That's okay with lockers, generally.
And I suppose you girth hitch slings to bolts instead of using quick draws? Metal on metal is not only fine, it is perfectly safe in almost all scenarios. There are two scenarios where you should not use metal on metal: snapgate to snapgate, or snapgate to locker where the carabiners can move freely with respect to each other. That is the only time they can mutually torque gates open.
There is just so much wrong in this video 🤦 do not trust random guys on the internet just because it looks easy
2:30 till 2:50 is not "super good enough" for me... he's gonna fall the distance of the slack he just took into his lap...if anything were to happen... Better to attach your friend to the ATC, before removing him from that top Quickdraw. Im surprised no one else thinks this
He’s closed into the master point…
this is wrong! you should tie the partner with a clove witch before putting the rope through the atc!
Pure cr*p. The kind of misinformation that works great without any knowledge. Many mistakes, you shold be more careful before uploading videos like that.
lmao