Talking about 'buzz boxes' - 4:00 "the buzz you hear is from the arc itself, the welder is dead silent..." then 4:55 "that buzzing sound you hear is actually from the transformer"... what one is it?!?
I can’t watch the video at the moment however both are correct. I believe I was referring to both the welder I was welding with (miller dynasty) being silent, and that welders that actually “buzz” is due to the transformer inside. The miller doesn’t use a laminated core transformer, it uses a high efficiency toroidal style. Buzz boxes use a low efficiency laminated core transformer which creates noise as the laminations vibrate due to the changing magnetic fields. Google “why do transformers hum” to see a lot of good information regarding this.
Let’s see your comparison with a transformer machine! The main reason a person will use 6011 is with A/C bus box! Bet it would be much different using your D/C rods!
If I can find one I will. I had a real man’s tombstone (Lincoln ideal arc 250) and sold it because I thought my shop was selling. I will have to find something soon. I like old welders so it wouldn’t hurt to find a super old ac buzz box.
Dad has a.Forney 225 buzz box form the sixties. I tried running Hobart 7018 ac/dc rods and found they would run only on two windings that had higher open voltage ( at the time I didn't have a tripod to set a camera on to see the closed circuit voltage , but I bet it was a tiny bit higher. I gave those rods away and bought the Hobart 7028AC rods and it worked okay.
I would like to see you compare Hobart 6013 with another brand of 6013 on light rust. I believe the Hobart flux is a rougher running mixture, making it more suitable on somewhat dirty material. You can compare the flux mixtures to see what I mean. I am looking for fewer slag inclusions on non-pristine material.
I will see what I can find. 6013 is prone to slag inclusions which is why I tend to run a pretty steep rod angle with it. It’s like the flux to metal ratio favors too much flux lol. 6013 and 7014 I find to be tougher to get consistently clean welds with than 7018 and 6010. I will grab a few 6013s to try though 😀
6010 is high in sodium/ cellulose and can have some iron powder, 6011 is high in potassium/ cellulose. They do play with the ratios though. All depends on your brands flavor of flux.
Very interesting. Have you tried running any 6010 on your little $99 dollar welder? That would be a good test. It might run it. Your Miller seems to run anything well.
In the video that goes live tonight called “why your welder won’t run 6010” I tried to run 6010 on the little red welder without success. It simply can’t produce enough closed circuit voltage to keep a arc established. I believe if I cranked the amperage way up it may be able to provide enough voltage but the amperage would be far to high for the rod to handle. I believe the reason it won’t is due to how they have the windings setup on the transformer inside of it. In order to get 140 amps out of the machine they designed the transformer to produce 140 amps at say 26 volts, and if they wanted it to run 6010 they would have needed to set it up as a 110 amp welder which would be less marketable.
So 6011 is easier to start, and restart than 7018. It’s harder to make a “pretty” weld with. However if you can make a very consistent bead with 6011 you can weld with pretty much any stick rod. 6011 (like 6010) has a molten puddle that solidifies really fast, so any inconsistency in your hand movement shows up in the weld. 6011 requires a bit slower forward speed than 7018, and feeding in a more rod. Knowing how to run 6011 makes it really easy to weld with 6010. It’s also a lot harder to stick a 6011 than 7018.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg dam. So...my work is cut out for me? Either way? 6011 and 7018? I do however , have some 6013....Still have not tried to stick weld yet since the 7018 incident. lol , Been working up the courage to try again. Lot of it has to do with all of the nasty weather lately. Plus I'm a big BIG Procrastinator . I Lose Motivation easily.
Entirely possible. The only thing I would worry about is a reduction in fusion. It might actually help with arc starts, and it might help push the flux out of the way a bit. Definitely a rough rod to use. If only it was more consistent, I swear every rod welds completely different lol.
the old tombstone i have is like stupid at ac and retared at dc ac will use the 6010 but dc it wont and it wired for ac but the transformer is a copper wire that my pawpa put in it he was a smart wait more than smart eletrcian he was the best in the entire company accoring to the boss also it probley becouse my pawpa did soup it up so to speak
thanks Greg. I enjoy your welding content. please keep it going!
Thanks for the kind comment. I will be making a lot more videos of content to share how to do things 😀.
Talking about 'buzz boxes' - 4:00 "the buzz you hear is from the arc itself, the welder is dead silent..." then 4:55 "that buzzing sound you hear is actually from the transformer"... what one is it?!?
I can’t watch the video at the moment however both are correct. I believe I was referring to both the welder I was welding with (miller dynasty) being silent, and that welders that actually “buzz” is due to the transformer inside. The miller doesn’t use a laminated core transformer, it uses a high efficiency toroidal style. Buzz boxes use a low efficiency laminated core transformer which creates noise as the laminations vibrate due to the changing magnetic fields. Google “why do transformers hum” to see a lot of good information regarding this.
Let’s see your comparison with a transformer machine!
The main reason a person will use 6011 is with A/C bus box!
Bet it would be much different using your D/C rods!
If I can find one I will. I had a real man’s tombstone (Lincoln ideal arc 250) and sold it because I thought my shop was selling. I will have to find something soon. I like old welders so it wouldn’t hurt to find a super old ac buzz box.
Dad has a.Forney 225 buzz box form the sixties. I tried running Hobart 7018 ac/dc rods and found they would run only on two windings that had higher open voltage ( at the time I didn't have a tripod to set a camera on to see the closed circuit voltage , but I bet it was a tiny bit higher. I gave those rods away and bought the Hobart 7028AC rods and it worked okay.
I would like to see you compare Hobart 6013 with another brand of 6013 on light rust. I believe the Hobart flux is a rougher running mixture, making it more suitable on somewhat dirty material. You can compare the flux mixtures to see what I mean. I am looking for fewer slag inclusions on non-pristine material.
I will see what I can find. 6013 is prone to slag inclusions which is why I tend to run a pretty steep rod angle with it. It’s like the flux to metal ratio favors too much flux lol. 6013 and 7014 I find to be tougher to get consistently clean welds with than 7018 and 6010. I will grab a few 6013s to try though 😀
The Hobart 6013 might be similar to Euro *Rutile-Cellulose* rods - meaning it bites a fair bit harder than the usual for 6013…
There is definitely some difference in brands and even a brands sub type.
Thx!
Awesome video!
the flux looks a little different color. 10 is cellulose while 11 is some salt mix
6010 is high in sodium/ cellulose and can have some iron powder, 6011 is high in potassium/ cellulose. They do play with the ratios though. All depends on your brands flavor of flux.
Very interesting. Have you tried running any 6010 on your little $99 dollar welder? That would be a good test. It might run it. Your Miller seems to run anything well.
In the video that goes live tonight called “why your welder won’t run 6010” I tried to run 6010 on the little red welder without success. It simply can’t produce enough closed circuit voltage to keep a arc established. I believe if I cranked the amperage way up it may be able to provide enough voltage but the amperage would be far to high for the rod to handle. I believe the reason it won’t is due to how they have the windings setup on the transformer inside of it. In order to get 140 amps out of the machine they designed the transformer to produce 140 amps at say 26 volts, and if they wanted it to run 6010 they would have needed to set it up as a 110 amp welder which would be less marketable.
I purchased 6011 the other day. Would that be better for me to learn on than 7018?
So 6011 is easier to start, and restart than 7018. It’s harder to make a “pretty” weld with. However if you can make a very consistent bead with 6011 you can weld with pretty much any stick rod. 6011 (like 6010) has a molten puddle that solidifies really fast, so any inconsistency in your hand movement shows up in the weld. 6011 requires a bit slower forward speed than 7018, and feeding in a more rod. Knowing how to run 6011 makes it really easy to weld with 6010. It’s also a lot harder to stick a 6011 than 7018.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg dam. So...my work is cut out for me? Either way? 6011 and 7018? I do however , have some 6013....Still have not tried to stick weld yet since the 7018 incident. lol , Been working up the courage to try again. Lot of it has to do with all of the nasty weather lately. Plus I'm a big BIG Procrastinator . I Lose Motivation easily.
I believe that aluminum electrodes can run on AC despite being DC only as well.
Entirely possible. The only thing I would worry about is a reduction in fusion. It might actually help with arc starts, and it might help push the flux out of the way a bit. Definitely a rough rod to use. If only it was more consistent, I swear every rod welds completely different lol.
What rods worked best for you on the tombstone lol
6011, 6013, and 7014 are the “100% will work” rods for the tombstone. Some 7018 rods (particularily the 7018ac) will work too.
6010 5p red rod will run on AC
the old tombstone i have is like stupid at ac and retared at dc ac will use the 6010 but dc it wont and it wired for ac but the transformer is a copper wire that my pawpa put in it he was a smart wait more than smart eletrcian he was the best in the entire company accoring to the boss also it probley becouse my pawpa did soup it up so to speak