Spraying Raptor Liner through cheap HVLP gun. Awesome results.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2023
- Spraying my inner fenders with Raptor Liner. I'm using my Harbor Freight HVLP drilled to 2mm. 35-40psi. Raptor is mixed slightly slower and a little thinner. Very happy with the results.
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awsome results good job !
thanks for your video
Good stuff! I painted my whole rover roof with the stuff 5 years ago. Great answer to trucks/SUV with any kind of sever clear damage on roofs or hood areas. Sand it down with 180 and fix the cut through to metal areas with etching primer and then put the raptor base on. 😃 all the work in any of these applications is prep work. Get your prep work right.
Prep is key with any topcoat for sure! I also tried rolling it, and also spraying it from their 2K cans. Love the stuff.
@@comfort_in_discomfort that 2K rattle can is a racket, you hardly get any material out of that can. I learned my lesson on that one.
Im about to raptor a few panels on my scooter. Ive used it on my Roo Bar previously but id like a finer finish for the damaged plastics on my scoot.
This vid helps me get the result i want.
Cheers Bing from Brisbane Australia Brisbane Australia
Glad it was useful! Hope you're able to achieve the results you're looking for! AUS is on my list of places to visit!
Did the same for my 1967 El Camino inner fenders, both front and rear...they look fantastic.
I'm debating doing this on my floor too after I clean everything up and epoxy it. What do you think?
@@comfort_in_discomfort Tough call...if you could get it relatively smooth it might be ok, otherwise it might be too textured and a pain to clean up.
@@rickss69 I think I'll spray it like I did here. Low texture. I'll probably carpet over this anyway, so it'll just be for protection. Thanks!
Nice work
Interesting method. I’ve just sprayed my entire truck with raptor and put it on my channel.
Upol only recommend a maximum of 10-15% thinners and you went with 30% and it seemed much easier to spray than I found.
I struggled to get it through the gun in a decent pattern at 10%
I just watched your raptor videos. At the end, it seems you got a good result. I couldn't tell what orifice your HVLP was. Mine started life as 1.4mm but drilled to 2.0. Even at 2.0, my pressure was 40 or so. Also, a few other settings make a difference. The knob by the air hose is for air/fluid volume. That should be at maximum (out). The large knob by the trigger is to set the pattern. This is your preference, but bigger means "smoother" for Raptor. I think you got a terrific result with a small compressor!
looks good
Good work man ,
Thanks! I think the black turned out better than the tinted (I used my basecoat as the tint and didn't get a lot of texture). Will be doing g more of the black in the rear fender wells and rocker guards (which ill paint later). Thanks for watching.
Nice! Will try your techniques on my project ... Thanx! 🤘 ^v^
Great job🎉. Would you be able to share the ratios in numbers, so we can see it.
Well done.
Thanks!
Nice job! Really like that the texture, much finer this way. I just picked up an 87 4runner and the fiberglass top needs to be refinished. I think I will do it this way. Don't want a heavy texture on the top but the way you did it looks just how I want it!
I saw a video of a couple of Australian guys painting their truck with this ratio so I thought I'd try it. Just prep your surfaces really well. Good luck!
That looks amazing. Is this a standard colour or did you add your own colour, if so would you mind sharing the colour code please?
This is the standard black. You can buy this version, or the tintable where you add your own color. I did the tintable for the interior floor.
Great video. I'm wondering how this method compares to using a High-Density Foam Roller to obtain a smooth finish. Thanks.
I haven't tried with a roller. But when I do my floors, I'll test it out!
@@comfort_in_discomfort Ironically, I tried the rollers (high-density) this weekend on my boat. It came out great, very similar to your spray technique.
That's great to know. I'm sure I'll use them at some point in hard to spray areas!
I used a roller on my front rad support area. Came out great. Not as fine of texture, but still much finer than a Schutz gun spray. I also used the 2k spray can on my rear fender wells. That is a mixed bag. Must really control distance as the cans are really highly pressurized. Good tip!
Hey man I bought a roof rack for my truck and I want to spray it with the raptor liner. The roof rack came with a textured coating already would it be okay to spray the raptor straight on or do I need to scratch it with some sand paper?
I think any time you can help, the better. It may be enough to use a red scotch pad. I would avoid getting it all the way down to metal.
I think I would just scuff it with maroon scotch Brite and then either epoxy primer or self etch primer then shoot your raptor but I would aim towards epoxy primer since self etch is supposed to have another primer over it. Then when you shoot your raptor apply at least 3 coats
What did you use for a reducer? I'm not finding any information on what is compatible. My first guess would be MEK or acetone.
In my case, I used a reducer made for base coat. Nason Ful-base 441-21 mid temp reducer. I'm not sure if Acetone or MEK would work. Never tried.
@comfort_in_discomfort awesome well ill seek that one out. I appreciate the response
No problem. If you're in the US, O'REILLY Auto sells Nason products and typically has reducer in the back (you have to ask as it's not in the general shelving)
@comfort_in_discomfort thanks for that I would have just looked online but I like to support brick and mortar stores. But I swear if they ask me if it's for a 2wd or 4wd I'm going to loose it.
That the finish I'm looking for also
Sweet! I was really happy with how it came out. I'm debating on using it on my dashboard as well vs wrapping it.
What type of thinner did you use? Does it have to be a specifc type?
I used regular reducer for 2k paint. Worked great. About to do more.
@@comfort_in_discomfort Thanks!
What was nozzle size used for this surfsce result?
I drilled my 1.4 nozzle to 2.0 mm (both the cap and the inner nozzle should be 2.0 mm. I'm going to spray my floor like this as well.
Please mix 3 to 1. It has to be right for it to crosslink so it will cure properly. Over reducing is OK if it says so.
If you have a 1.2/1.3 LVLP gun instead, bang up the pressure a bit - run at 50 or 60 psi. Feed the stuff into the cup through a 100 micron disposable sieve to get the chunks out. 30% reducer/thinner works nice. It will spray on like silk - textured silk. 4:1 works best as the initial material/hardener ratio.
Use a regular size gun - this video shows why - that gun is struggling badly, it's too small in the nozzle/airways for such a heavy material. Dial the fan back on your gun if needs be - run it my way and it is easy. Big gun, higher pressure, more reducer - goes on fast like silk. ;-)
I tried drilled btw - it works, but the juice is not worth the squeeze - just dial up the pressure & filter the paint into the cup - Bingo. :-) 80% of success with this material happens in the mixing - mix twice as long as you think you ought.
Whatever works for you! This method worked great for me, and I wasn't in a hurry. Plan to do the same for more panels. Thanks for watching!
@@jamesward5721 which lvlp gun do you recommend?
@@justinmalone8640 I use a Voilamart - wasn't expensive, I use it to shoot almost everything except hi-build primer (I have a cheapo syphon-feed gun with a 2.0 tip for that, it just hoses on that material faster). I've zero complaints about the Voilamart (the missus bought it as a gift for me), I was a bit skeptical at first, but now it is my go-to just for the lack of billowing overspray & the fact it lays paint on nice.
I see a lot of good guys on here raving about other makes of LVLP, but they are hard to get here - she got the Voilamart off Amazon - was just a case of eeny meeny miney mo/fastest delivery/lowest price as she doesn't know much about paint-guns - turned out to be a good pick. If it died/broke, I'd buy another in a heartbeat.
Here, I've been going just a layer beyond this ^^ lately - because often the "Texture" with bedliner is too meaty - I've been using 2k acrylic that costs about €170 a gallon (do the maths, that's 5l, or €34 a liter plus the cost of hardener). "Trick" is to spray a drop-coat with the gun held at about 18" from the panel, let that drop-coat flash off for a bit. Bang, you have created "Texture" that imitates fine bedliner. I then spray a wet-coat over that, then another wet on wet coat. Let it all go off, then clear coat it with 2 coats. Boom - you've got the same effect as bedliner but waay more subtle & looks waaay cooler irl.
The huge Upside is you can make any colour you can imagine - I like to mix my own shades so the paintjob doesn't look like anything else you will see anywhere. Take Military Olive as an example - I have a big card sprayed out with every shade varying from the absolutest lightest Olive through to close to black-olive - so customers can just point out the shade they like best. Black-olive is a very cool colour to shoot as it "flips" with the light - in low light, it looks jet black, but in sunlight it shows real dark olive - just looks drop-dead cool on a vehicle when its done & a clear-coat is applied. You get the same texture effect, but much classier & unusual.
Just my 2c - I love experimenting with paint finishes that look different.
Do you recommend this for bed liners
This product started as a bed liner. I would use the thicker application gun, but yes absolutely.
Can i use lacquer thinner to thin raptor liner?
I don't believe so. A urethane based reducer is required.
Do you know how much reducer you used? Thanks
I used about 9 Oz raptor, 3 oz reducer (maybe just a little less) and not quite 3 Oz hardener. What I've seen is that mixing slightly less reducer slows things down some and enables a very clean finish. Everything still hardens, just lays down nicely.
What is the reducer? Asatone,MEK,laker thinner???
You need to use 2k paint reducer. In my case, I used Nason brand, but any actual paint reducer should work.
You didn't add the hardner. I'm more confused now
You're right. I didn't record it. But I did add the hardener. Must have been nervous about spraying. Good catch!
I just bought same gun, got a video on where you drilled the tip out? And what size compressor
No video. I just chucked a 2mm bit into my table top drill press. My compressor is a 29 gal from Harbor Freight so not a lot of cfm, but it seems to work with what I need.
@@comfort_in_discomfort awesome thank ya brother, I bought the same gun you have from harbor freight yesterday, I have a 200gal air compressor that should work, I'm going to do my hole truck and I want that fine texture also and I think yours looks great, I bought a 1gal kit I'm thinkin I may need another half gallon or possibly a gallon
@@chriscooper4990 I think you better get some extra. Don't leave it short. Matching to a dry edge won't look great. If you have extra, you can always do wheel wells, etc.
@@comfort_in_discomfort hey bub 1 last question, when I'm drilling out this tip do I only drill out the silver cap or the black part that is inside the cap on the spray gun or do I drill both
@@chriscooper4990 you need to drill both. Try to be as straight as you can (round hole). The nice thing about Raptor is that it blends nicely, so even if your hile isn't perfect, as long as you are consistent in how you're spraying, it'll be fine.
What reducer did you use?
I used a Nason base reducer, but any basecoat reducer should work. Remember, Raptor is a 2k product with an activator, so any reducer reducer for 2k paint should work.
@@comfort_in_discomfort thnx
@@comfort_in_discomfortslow or fast thinner?
Hmph. It’s alright I guess.
Just kidding good job
Always count on you for support!