Need a thick plastic bag around the safe before lowering it into the hole. Protects the safe from groundwater, and reduces condensation inside the safe (yes, an issue with floor safes). Once lowered, take pieces of rebar and place them kriss cross over the corners of the bottom lip, extending out as far as the hole allows. This will confound efforts to yank the safe from its mooring once concrete is poured in. Thieves can drill and chip halfway down, and the damned thing STILL won't let go and come out. Finally, I like to utilize railroad spikes, steel wrenches, and shorter pieces of rebar, shoving them down into the just poured concrete. Anything that will confound a jack hammer or bit. Then YES, finish it off FLUSH with the floor, not with a raised lip.
This video should be "How not to install a Floor Safe" 1) use a concrete cutter. Faster/Neater 2) Cover the copper Pipe and keep it away from the safe. 3) Dont have it raised! It's supposed to be hidden. You can put a mat over it a toobox. Furniture. 4) Use some concrete metal rebar in to stop the safe being smashed out or jacked out.
Don't get the dust cover anywhere near the concrete unless you have covered it with a plastic bag or similar. An unmarked dust cover will look so much better.
If I was calling out a safe company to install safe like this I wouldnt want the safe company's vehicle have their logo on it being I dont want neighbors seeing I am having safe installed these days cant trust no one..
One very easy safe to remove! You very thoughtfully, left a nice ridge, all the way around the safe, so that a thief can drill a hole, on each of the sides, attach a chain to them, and, (with a Crane Jack) lift it out! The sides, and bottom, have no protruding bars, to stop this. Terrible!
personal opinion but I would have welded some rear to the outside of the safe to make it completely impossible to get the safe out of the concrete. the safe had smooth walls, bang it with a sledge hammer and there is a slim chance of pulling it out of the hardened concrete. plus I would have poured a floor first for the safe to sit on. add rear coming up out of the slab under the safe and it becomes a 500 pound section of the garage or building slab (floor). But that is just my 2 cents.
depending on your ability to get air and fresh air in the space, a concrete saw is a good tool to initially cut the size of the hole as then the jackhammer will have far less work since it will crack where your saw it. depending on your ability to put a bolt and a suitable lifting mechanism, very often the concrete will come out whole as well.
I feel they are raised to stop them from filling up with water. I've seen a few videos of people finding forgotten floor safes in newly acquired properties and they are always full of water.
Very useful video, between the video and the comments I have a pretty good idea on how to do this. Roll a work bench with wheels over it and nobody will ever know it's there. I bet works great as is for longer than any of these smart ass peanut gallery trolls are alive. Good video!! 👍🏻
You guys got beat up pretty bad in the comments. I do think a wet concrete saw would have been beneficial as well as rebar or some hot rolled steel with holes machined in them and then welded to the bottom to help anchor it. I'm assuming it was plum when finished.
I would never allow these guys to install any safe on my property. If he didn't clean up that concrete some more I would be livid as a customer. Your job is concrete and that was an awful attempt
@@dylansmith8142 shut up fuck boy. That's like saying his job is dry wall because he puts a safe in the wall. Or his job is water because he put a safe in the water. You're a fucking idiot. Do you think safe companies build the banks aswell lmao fucking idiot
@@RHEC1776 Jesus Christ, calm down big boy. His job is the installation of safes which involves concrete and dry wall. You can't install a safe in concrete without knowing how to use concrete. How is that too hard to understand? Also your high school level insults, bad grammar and the fact that you said lmao leads me to believe you are 12. In the future maybe you should stick to clash of clans because it seems TH-cam is too complicated for you.
@@dylansmith8142 it literally took you a month to respond 😂 😂. I'm 38 fucktard and no his job is not to be a expert in concrete or drywall. His experience is in sales and that's it.
Need a thick plastic bag around the safe before lowering it into the hole. Protects the safe from groundwater, and reduces condensation inside the safe (yes, an issue with floor safes). Once lowered, take pieces of rebar and place them kriss cross over the corners of the bottom lip, extending out as far as the hole allows. This will confound efforts to yank the safe from its mooring once concrete is poured in. Thieves can drill and chip halfway down, and the damned thing STILL won't let go and come out. Finally, I like to utilize railroad spikes, steel wrenches, and shorter pieces of rebar, shoving them down into the just poured concrete. Anything that will confound a jack hammer or bit. Then YES, finish it off FLUSH with the floor, not with a raised lip.
I would have cut the concrete to a nice square.
This video should be "How not to install a Floor Safe" 1) use a concrete cutter. Faster/Neater 2) Cover the copper Pipe and keep it away from the safe. 3) Dont have it raised! It's supposed to be hidden. You can put a mat over it a toobox. Furniture. 4) Use some concrete metal rebar in to stop the safe being smashed out or jacked out.
Don't get the dust cover anywhere near the concrete unless you have covered it with a plastic bag or similar. An unmarked dust cover will look so much better.
WELL SAID TIM
If I was calling out a safe company to install safe like this I wouldnt want the safe company's vehicle have their logo on it being I dont want neighbors seeing I am having safe installed these days cant trust no one..
Ever hear of a concrete saw. Job would take 30min instead of three hours.
ever use a concrete saw inside a room, not a pretty picture and you will never get all the dust out
One very easy safe to remove! You very thoughtfully, left a nice ridge, all the way around the safe, so that a thief can drill a hole, on each of the sides, attach a chain to them, and, (with a Crane Jack) lift it out! The sides, and bottom, have no protruding bars, to stop this. Terrible!
personal opinion but I would have welded some rear to the outside of the safe to make it completely impossible to get the safe out of the concrete. the safe had smooth walls, bang it with a sledge hammer and there is a slim chance of pulling it out of the hardened concrete. plus I would have poured a floor first for the safe to sit on. add rear coming up out of the slab under the safe and it becomes a 500 pound section of the garage or building slab (floor). But that is just my 2 cents.
rebar dang spell check. not rear
I would of dug a room out under there
John Wick would break that in a minute with a sledgehammer
depending on your ability to get air and fresh air in the space, a concrete saw is a good tool to initially cut the size of the hole as then the jackhammer will have far less work since it will crack where your saw it. depending on your ability to put a bolt and a suitable lifting mechanism, very often the concrete will come out whole as well.
You can also use a diamond blade 71/4 inch in a skill saw as well to score it
Should have prevented the copper from touching the concrete, as complete encasement or not-at-all is the accepted practice.
I would be pissed if my in ground safe was sticking up OUT of the ground 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦
I feel they are raised to stop them from filling up with water. I've seen a few videos of people finding forgotten floor safes in newly acquired properties and they are always full of water.
Very useful video, between the video and the comments I have a pretty good idea on how to do this. Roll a work bench with wheels over it and nobody will ever know it's there. I bet works great as is for longer than any of these smart ass peanut gallery trolls are alive. Good video!! 👍🏻
Circular saw with diamond tipped blades makes it a shit tone easier ! Check it out on
There’s got to be a better way.
what about damp from the ground?
Lance Millward I would Incase the safe with a moisture barrier
14 FEET huh? Doesn't look quite that big...
RIGHT? 12 seconds in I wondered if this was a good vid to learn from ;)
Do you need a permit to place a floor safe? Exspaully that close to a structural wall.
I would of put something around the safe then bury it so if it's pulled it will hold better
Should have covered the safe with plastic and duct tape to keep it clean,,,Sloppy
You guys got beat up pretty bad in the comments. I do think a wet concrete saw would have been beneficial as well as rebar or some hot rolled steel with holes machined in them and then welded to the bottom to help anchor it. I'm assuming it was plum when finished.
You can tell these guys don't do this for a living
i couldn't find this safe box from Amazon? where can i buy this box?
I would never allow these guys to install any safe on my property. If he didn't clean up that concrete some more I would be livid as a customer. Your job is concrete and that was an awful attempt
His job is safes not concrete. 🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦
@@RHEC1776 His job is the installation of safes which involves concrete. Stupid.
@@dylansmith8142 shut up fuck boy. That's like saying his job is dry wall because he puts a safe in the wall. Or his job is water because he put a safe in the water. You're a fucking idiot. Do you think safe companies build the banks aswell lmao fucking idiot
@@RHEC1776 Jesus Christ, calm down big boy. His job is the installation of safes which involves concrete and dry wall. You can't install a safe in concrete without knowing how to use concrete. How is that too hard to understand? Also your high school level insults, bad grammar and the fact that you said lmao leads me to believe you are 12. In the future maybe you should stick to clash of clans because it seems TH-cam is too complicated for you.
@@dylansmith8142 it literally took you a month to respond 😂 😂. I'm 38 fucktard and no his job is not to be a expert in concrete or drywall. His experience is in sales and that's it.