LMAO! Superb! Soc. Republic of Canada, Fire Extinguisher, Protective Gear, Dog out on Road- PERFECT!! Plus Karen must be truly pissed off and your exceptionally low priced rust spray actually works. Your advice about epoxy primer then good paint is spot on. This seems to hold paint better than plain steel. I've used your spray and painting advice under 3 cars. A 22 yr old, a 15 yr old and an 11 yr old. all had a fair amount of rust underneath. Just sprayed it on, let it dry, sprayed some epoxy primer then some regular car paint I had left over. Looks Really Good. I did very, very little scraping or sanding. Oddly enough I also have one of those old Kerosene heaters, small world. Usually I watch your videos on my TV and can't leave comments. This time I used my pc SO I could leave comments! Your dry sense of humor is Excellent! THANKS! edited for typos
Thank you for your positive feedback. It is encouraging to know that my viewers appreciate my efforts. Unlike large corporations that capitalize on similar products, I have chosen to share my findings with fellow car enthusiasts free of charge. We value your trust and support as a family member to our channel. I eagerly anticipate any feedback or concerns that Karen may express about this one 😄
Hello! I know two random facts about your solution. First, Acid won't evaporate, but water will. So it will concentrate if it evaporates or it will absorb water from the air if you leave a concentrated bottle open. So I think you're right about not using gel as an ethanol source. Also, the conversion reaction I found on google says it uses two molecules of phosphoric acid to convert one molecule of iron oxyde into two molecules of iron III oxyde. I think it's similar to black oxyde coating we often see on some steel tools and parts. Thanks for sharing your recipe. Now that I think about it... The ethanol is a drying agent, so it might help at concentrating the active ingredient. 🙌 That's awesome.
Your assistant did not have PPE on her feet! I like your humor. After seeing your other vid I used this stuff on a rusty Dakota truck frame, mostly surface rust. I then top coated with cosmoline, then Fluid Film. Time will tell how that holds up here in the rust belt of PA.
Excellent job man! Thanks for showing multiple applications and describing what happens under certain circumstances. I have had this stuff in my arsenal and didn't know everything that needed to be done with it. Look forward to other vids.
thank you ... perfect timing as I am currently working on my 1991 Camaro Z28 1LE/R7U players/gm series race car... and just planning the next projects after this one is finished. From New Brunswick, Canada formerly from Mount Albert, Ontario and soon to be back in Ontariowe... at least for the 7 decent months..hahaha
Love the magic rust spray. Thank you for the formula. Magic rust spray is a rust converter. Do you have any recommendations for a rust remover? I enjoy cleaning up old tools and sometimes I need something to take the rust off (like Evaporust), but like the idea of a homemade mixture that does an even better job.
Hi again mate, from Antique - not sure if you are in Canada or over here right now, but your Canadian place looks brilliant - tons of room, I like it! I followed your earlier suggestion to get phosphoric from Shopee, and as soon as I can I'll get out and get some ethyl/sanitizer. The storm drain cover I'm making is a 1 metre square angle iron and flat steel base, with 1 inch galvanized square tube runners 1 inch apart, meant to take pedestrian/light vehicle traffic. Work is on hold at the moment due to heavy weather the last couple of days,; even my normally dry car port was like a car wash on the rinse cycle yesterday, plus the inevitable brown-out, so I couldn't weld anyhow. All being well I'll have this item finished Monday/Tuesday, ready to treat and then paint......once this is done I have 2 more to do! The barangay (local council) started to build a storm drain right at the start of the rainy season and abandoned ship a couple of weeks ago as "they ran out of cash". It means that right outside my house and where everyone walks to school etc there are 3x1m sq open holes that WILL flood any time now and if anyone falls in they will almost certainly drown as the workers left all the form work in place under the covered concrete parts (they don't do sidewalks here, anywhere). I have 2 questions, asking as a novice to working with metal; 1. The galvanised tube; will spraying with the phosphoric mix be an issue? My gut feeling is no because we are talking about weak acid here. It needs to be painted because it's gonna rust anyway after welding it. 2. I have an unopened big tin of Island Paint epoxy gray primer left by the previous owner and I'll use that; I have ordered some cheap (Shopee) black epoxy enamel as a top coat and that should be here in a few days; I want a durable brush painted finish, one coat, nothing fancy, it's just got to last a while - I'm on my own dime here and I'm not happy spending my cash on barangay works. But if the worst WAS to happen outside my house I'd never forgive myself. Does that paint idea sound ok? Cheers, enjoying your videos.
I am back home where i belong in the Philippines. I lived in that house in canada for 15 years, but now my friend has taken it over. It appears that this is a typical example of unfinished work in the Philippines. The phosphoric acid will not damage the galvanized steel. In fact, it will etch the metal, allowing the paint to adhere better. As far as the ethyl alcohol you can buy it in savemore or any drugstore here. I have not yet used epoxy products here, but i will be soon, as i'm making stuff for my house. If it is a two-part epoxy, then I believe it should work quite well for your application. I commend you for taking on this project yourself, even though it is not your responsibility. 👊 Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! If you have any more questions, feel free to throw them my way. And if you're in the neighborhood, give us a shout.
@@justahandchannel Yep, primer and enamel are both 2-part, so looks like we're cooking on gas! As for the ethyl, I might need to go into the city as the local pharmacies/stores have lots of isopropyl but I've only seen ethyl in Watson's, in the city - I'm in the wild west here. I should have ordered on Shopee when I got the Phosphoric. I want ethyl instead of sanitizer because I want to keep a good mix on hand for other projects I want to do in the near future, including treating rusty hand tools. Yeah, funny old thing about the barangay; the barangay captain lives just along from me, a few metres higher elevation. Outside his house was completed, ship-shape and Bristol fashion, a week or so before the project was abandoned. During this latest typhoon the water that normally flowed hard outside his house now drains nicely away into the rice fields...... via my place. Dumaguete/Negros is on my Philippines bucket list and we're looking at going over next year; my UK pensions are up and running since the beginning of the year and I'm hoping to have the house just right by the end of December. After that wife and I will be in explore mode, I'll let you know nearer the time, cheers.
I was searching alot of Rust removal and your video came along it is . Just superior details how to step by step. I have done small part's brake caliper or other
Good video. I worked in paint & body for 35 years & used phosphoric acid products frequently. Some primers can be applied directly over the treated surface but some cannot, especially some epoxies. Also polyester body fillers do not adhere well when applied directly over an acid etched surface. Generally it's best to lightly blast or abrade the treated steel before priming and especially before applying body filler. If you want the ultimate lasting power, treat the steel, blast it or sand it, make sure it's clean & dry, prime it with a top quality epoxy (preferably a cromated one), apply any necessary body filler over that. Moisture in the atmosphere can penetrate polyester body filler but the epoxy stops it from getting to the steel. That way if it takes weeks to finish smoothing the body filler the steel underneath is protected. Once all the filler is shaped & smoothed then cook the vehicle in a warm booth awhile and then prime with a good urethane primer surfacer that can be sanded to a proper surface for the topcoat products.
Great advice to the viewers. I use SPI epoxy, and it has a chemical bond to the metal, and it does not let go. I don't use anything else, so it's very possible that others won't adhere properly without prior prep work.
Ok if i put this on my car that has very small.pits in the metal.after removing the paint i just wait for it to dry and i can prime it and later paint when ready if this true this is what i have been trying to find for awhile now and i love the cars beautiful they are now let me subscribe thanks a lot
Any spray on epoxy primer you'd recommend? I recently used this method on a set of new to me leaf springs but epoxy primer seems to be a hard find in spray can form. I wound up using rustoleum "rusty metal primer" figuring it was probably the best choice out of the 30 plus different primers in the spray paint aisle, none of which explicitly said "epoxy".
@@amross64 Actually, Eastwood sells a type of spray can epoxy that is a two part system that mixes when you activate it by pressing on a part of the can. The down side is, once it is activated, you have to use it all in a short span of time. Once activated, you can't put it up on the shelf and be able to use it the next day or ever. It isn't cheap
Too much of the product was poolled on the area, and it dried like that. Next time try to putting the piece vertical or use something to clear the excess liquid off
It depends how nice of a finish you want and what you're working on. I would normally give it a quick wire wheel before i spray it with the acid just to get any loose stuff off. If it's a body panel then you're going to do body work on it anyway
Yes, it does, but I find it doesn't have the strength for heavy embedded rust on metal half a century old. Also, it doesn't etch the metal in preparation for paint. Whether it's mild flash rust or heavy embedded rust, my mixture does it all.
Please feel free to use any product you deem necessary. My purpose is to provide you with the optimal product based on my extensive research and experimentation over the years.
In the event that the product is composed entirely of phosphoric acid, then yes, it will be identical. However, if this is not the case, I would advise against it.
I Am thinking to get my car bare metal all strip It's an 44 yrs one i brought itnto rebuild it by my hands I'm stuck from where ot start.like it get it strip ti bare metal metal wire ginger or chemical. Then fill up the spot with metal sheet. Seal joint then apply epoxy primer Paint white hehee .
@@justahandchannel I was going to ask right away but after digging around. Media blaster SAND BLASTING SAND/WATER BLASTING CHARCOAL BLASTING ANGLE GRINDER wire brush. Any other suggestions
hey bud great vid thanks for the info ! i remember many ! years ago when they first came out with nutra-rust the stuff was amazing it would turn rust instantly into a very hard nice black finish do you know is there any difference between that and the formula your using because i thought you could leave that formula without painting for a long time ? again thanks great info! another interesting product i used once was a expensive epoxy primer and it had a very permanent coating right over rust for years ?? without any topcoat ! it was amazing !!
LMAO! Superb! Soc. Republic of Canada, Fire Extinguisher, Protective Gear, Dog out on Road- PERFECT!! Plus Karen must be truly pissed off and your exceptionally low priced rust spray actually works. Your advice about epoxy primer then good paint is spot on. This seems to hold paint better than plain steel. I've used your spray and painting advice under 3 cars. A 22 yr old, a 15 yr old and an 11 yr old. all had a fair amount of rust underneath. Just sprayed it on, let it dry, sprayed some epoxy primer then some regular car paint I had left over. Looks Really Good. I did very, very little scraping or sanding.
Oddly enough I also have one of those old Kerosene heaters, small world.
Usually I watch your videos on my TV and can't leave comments. This time I used my pc SO I could leave comments!
Your dry sense of humor is Excellent!
THANKS!
edited for typos
Thank you for your positive feedback. It is encouraging to know that my viewers appreciate my efforts. Unlike large corporations that capitalize on similar products, I have chosen to share my findings with fellow car enthusiasts free of charge.
We value your trust and support as a family member to our channel.
I eagerly anticipate any feedback or concerns that Karen may express about this one 😄
@@justahandchannel Pleasure to deal with an intelligent, decent guy who knows some stuff and explains it clearly! THANKS!
So gratwful to find you. I bought a Ford transit recently and your knowledge you have shared is invaluable to me and I am truly grateful.
I'm so glad it helped
Hello! I know two random facts about your solution. First, Acid won't evaporate, but water will. So it will concentrate if it evaporates or it will absorb water from the air if you leave a concentrated bottle open. So I think you're right about not using gel as an ethanol source. Also, the conversion reaction I found on google says it uses two molecules of phosphoric acid to convert one molecule of iron oxyde into two molecules of iron III oxyde. I think it's similar to black oxyde coating we often see on some steel tools and parts. Thanks for sharing your recipe.
Now that I think about it... The ethanol is a drying agent, so it might help at concentrating the active ingredient. 🙌 That's awesome.
You got it right. A+ 😁. Thanks for watching!!
Your assistant did not have PPE on her feet! I like your humor.
After seeing your other vid I used this stuff on a rusty Dakota truck frame, mostly surface rust. I then top coated with cosmoline, then Fluid Film. Time will tell how that holds up here in the rust belt of PA.
Yeah nobody can get that kid to put shoes on. She would walk across hot lava instead of wearing shoes. I hope it works out good for you
dude, what a car you got in that garage man...WOW.
69 Superbee. There are videos on here of it
Thanks for all of the great information.
You're welcome!
Love your work!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks. You're welcome.
Excellent job man! Thanks for showing multiple applications and describing what happens under certain circumstances. I have had this stuff in my arsenal and didn't know everything that needed to be done with it. Look forward to other vids.
Thank you! I hope i answered all your questions and you're ready to go now
Thank you,your videos are so greatly appreciated
You're welcome!
thank you ... perfect timing as I am currently working on my 1991 Camaro Z28 1LE/R7U players/gm series race car... and just planning the next projects after this one is finished. From New Brunswick, Canada formerly from Mount Albert, Ontario and soon to be back in Ontariowe... at least for the 7 decent months..hahaha
You're welcome. Mount Albert is pretty close to where I lived. Good luck on your build.
Great tutorial 👍!
Thanks!
Love the magic rust spray. Thank you for the formula. Magic rust spray is a rust converter. Do you have any recommendations for a rust remover? I enjoy cleaning up old tools and sometimes I need something to take the rust off (like Evaporust), but like the idea of a homemade mixture that does an even better job.
Thanks!
Thank you for the support!!
*_Thanks for sharing._*
You're welcome
Hi, I’m a new subscriber. I really enjoyed your video and plan to use it on my rust bucket to T Bucket project. Great job!!
Thanks! I'm so glad you liked it!
Thanks for sharing
You're welcome
100% great video!
Thanks!
Hi again mate, from Antique - not sure if you are in Canada or over here right now, but your Canadian place looks brilliant - tons of room, I like it! I followed your earlier suggestion to get phosphoric from Shopee, and as soon as I can I'll get out and get some ethyl/sanitizer.
The storm drain cover I'm making is a 1 metre square angle iron and flat steel base, with 1 inch galvanized square tube runners 1 inch apart, meant to take pedestrian/light vehicle traffic. Work is on hold at the moment due to heavy weather the last couple of days,; even my normally dry car port was like a car wash on the rinse cycle yesterday, plus the inevitable brown-out, so I couldn't weld anyhow.
All being well I'll have this item finished Monday/Tuesday, ready to treat and then paint......once this is done I have 2 more to do! The barangay (local council) started to build a storm drain right at the start of the rainy season and abandoned ship a couple of weeks ago as "they ran out of cash". It means that right outside my house and where everyone walks to school etc there are 3x1m sq open holes that WILL flood any time now and if anyone falls in they will almost certainly drown as the workers left all the form work in place under the covered concrete parts (they don't do sidewalks here, anywhere).
I have 2 questions, asking as a novice to working with metal; 1. The galvanised tube; will spraying with the phosphoric mix be an issue? My gut feeling is no because we are talking about weak acid here. It needs to be painted because it's gonna rust anyway after welding it. 2. I have an unopened big tin of Island Paint epoxy gray primer left by the previous owner and I'll use that; I have ordered some cheap (Shopee) black epoxy enamel as a top coat and that should be here in a few days; I want a durable brush painted finish, one coat, nothing fancy, it's just got to last a while - I'm on my own dime here and I'm not happy spending my cash on barangay works. But if the worst WAS to happen outside my house I'd never forgive myself. Does that paint idea sound ok? Cheers, enjoying your videos.
I am back home where i belong in the Philippines. I lived in that house in canada for 15 years, but now my friend has taken it over.
It appears that this is a typical example of unfinished work in the Philippines.
The phosphoric acid will not damage the galvanized steel. In fact, it will etch the metal, allowing the paint to adhere better. As far as the ethyl alcohol you can buy it in savemore or any drugstore here.
I have not yet used epoxy products here, but i will be soon, as i'm making stuff for my house. If it is a two-part epoxy, then I believe it should work quite well for your application.
I commend you for taking on this project yourself, even though it is not your responsibility. 👊
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! If you have any more questions, feel free to throw them my way. And if you're in the neighborhood, give us a shout.
@@justahandchannel Yep, primer and enamel are both 2-part, so looks like we're cooking on gas! As for the ethyl, I might need to go into the city as the local pharmacies/stores have lots of isopropyl but I've only seen ethyl in Watson's, in the city - I'm in the wild west here. I should have ordered on Shopee when I got the Phosphoric.
I want ethyl instead of sanitizer because I want to keep a good mix on hand for other projects I want to do in the near future, including treating rusty hand tools.
Yeah, funny old thing about the barangay; the barangay captain lives just along from me, a few metres higher elevation. Outside his house was completed, ship-shape and Bristol fashion, a week or so before the project was abandoned. During this latest typhoon the water that normally flowed hard outside his house now drains nicely away into the rice fields...... via my place.
Dumaguete/Negros is on my Philippines bucket list and we're looking at going over next year; my UK pensions are up and running since the beginning of the year and I'm hoping to have the house just right by the end of December. After that wife and I will be in explore mode, I'll let you know nearer the time, cheers.
I was searching alot of Rust removal and your video came along it is .
Just superior details how to step by step.
I have done small part's brake caliper or other
Thanks!
Good video. I worked in paint & body for 35 years & used phosphoric acid products frequently. Some primers can be applied directly over the treated surface but some cannot, especially some epoxies. Also polyester body fillers do not adhere well when applied directly over an acid etched surface. Generally it's best to lightly blast or abrade the treated steel before priming and especially before applying body filler. If you want the ultimate lasting power, treat the steel, blast it or sand it, make sure it's clean & dry, prime it with a top quality epoxy (preferably a cromated one), apply any necessary body filler over that. Moisture in the atmosphere can penetrate polyester body filler but the epoxy stops it from getting to the steel. That way if it takes weeks to finish smoothing the body filler the steel underneath is protected. Once all the filler is shaped & smoothed then cook the vehicle in a warm booth awhile and then prime with a good urethane primer surfacer that can be sanded to a proper surface for the topcoat products.
Great advice to the viewers. I use SPI epoxy, and it has a chemical bond to the metal, and it does not let go. I don't use anything else, so it's very possible that others won't adhere properly without prior prep work.
Thanks
You're welcome
Would it be possible to use some oxalic acid powder mixed together with the phosphoric acid and the ethyl alcohol solution? Cheers
Stay tuned. I will make a video with this experimentation.
@ Thats terrific, thank you very much!
Can I take regular phosphoric acid and cut it myself 60/40 before adding the alcohol love all your content thanks very much Detroit Mi
Absolutely. Just be careful mixing. I'm glad you like the channel!
At 1:15 most obedient dog. Owner didn’t even finish his sentence.
There may have been a kid and a ball that influenced her departure 😆
I love your sense of humor, I get in trouble all the time and need to remind my wife that she will miss me when I’m gone.
Ok if i put this on my car that has very small.pits in the metal.after removing the paint i just wait for it to dry and i can prime it and later paint when ready if this true this is what i have been trying to find for awhile now and i love the cars beautiful they are now let me subscribe thanks a lot
Sounds great!
Any spray on epoxy primer you'd recommend? I recently used this method on a set of new to me leaf springs but epoxy primer seems to be a hard find in spray can form. I wound up using rustoleum "rusty metal primer" figuring it was probably the best choice out of the 30 plus different primers in the spray paint aisle, none of which explicitly said "epoxy".
Epoxy is a two part paint so unfortunately it's only available to mix and use with a spray gun
@@justahandchannel got it. Thank you. A simple and straightforward answer with regards to paint is something that is difficult to come by.
@@amross64 Actually, Eastwood sells a type of spray can epoxy that is a two part system that mixes when you activate it by pressing on a part of the can. The down side is, once it is activated, you have to use it all in a short span of time. Once activated, you can't put it up on the shelf and be able to use it the next day or ever. It isn't cheap
Fleet & farm pipeline cleaner ,bulk tank dairy section .
Also known as milkstone remover in my country. Thanks for watching
Have a few spots become sticky? What's the reason for that?
Too much of the product was poolled on the area, and it dried like that. Next time try to putting the piece vertical or use something to clear the excess liquid off
@@justahandchannel Thanks for the advice. All the best to you and your family 🙂
Thank you and you as well
Was that a superbee in the beginning?
Yes. It will be for sale in spring
@@justahandchannel 426 or 440
Fresh 440 with 0 miles. Approximately 550HP
Have you tried this on stainless steel?
I don't see a reason unless it's rusty
@@justahandchannel thank you cleaning my old electric cook top. Do I use just water to remove film?
Hello, is it possible to have the recipe written in comments, if you do not mind?
Sure, it's 19:1 mix phosphoric acid / ethyl alcohol
"Socialist republic of Canada" earned you a sub.
Haha, great!
What happens if ya wash the frame after rust is removed
It will flash rust if you use water
👍👍🏽👍🏿👍🏼👍🏾👍🏻
Thank you!
Do you sand it down
It depends how nice of a finish you want and what you're working on. I would normally give it a quick wire wheel before i spray it with the acid just to get any loose stuff off. If it's a body panel then you're going to do body work on it anyway
I thought you left canada forever?
I went there for a month to finish up some business, but i'm back home now
Ascorbic acid works well also
Yes, it does, but I find it doesn't have the strength for heavy embedded rust on metal half a century old. Also, it doesn't etch the metal in preparation for paint. Whether it's mild flash rust or heavy embedded rust, my mixture does it all.
What about iron out
Please feel free to use any product you deem necessary. My purpose is to provide you with the optimal product based on my extensive research and experimentation over the years.
Just wondering it comes in a spray bottle and works good on my sinks etc . Of alcohol can be added to speed drying. Would it be the same end result
In the event that the product is composed entirely of phosphoric acid, then yes, it will be identical. However, if this is not the case, I would advise against it.
Where are her protective rubber boots ?
Trying to get her to wear shoes is a difficult task 😁
I Am thinking to get my car bare metal all strip
It's an 44 yrs one i brought itnto rebuild it by my hands
I'm stuck from where ot start.like it get it strip ti bare metal metal wire ginger or chemical.
Then fill up the spot with metal sheet.
Seal joint then apply epoxy primer
Paint white hehee .
I would suggest media blasting for best results
@@justahandchannel I was going to ask right away but after digging around.
Media blaster
SAND BLASTING
SAND/WATER BLASTING
CHARCOAL BLASTING
ANGLE GRINDER wire brush.
Any other suggestions
Keep it simple. Dry Media Blasting with crushed glass is my preference.
@@justahandchannel do you have video
Or steps to process
Videos of what? media blasting?
Socialist republic of Canada LMAO!!! ain't that the truth!!!
Hopefully, change is on the way!
hey bud great vid thanks for the info ! i remember many ! years ago when they first came out with nutra-rust the stuff was amazing it would turn rust instantly into a very hard nice black finish do you know is there any difference between that and the formula your using because i thought you could leave that formula without painting for a long time ? again thanks great info! another interesting product i used once was a expensive epoxy primer and it had a very permanent coating right over rust for years ?? without any topcoat ! it was amazing !!
Youre welcome. This will last for a quite a while before having rust again. And if it does just give it another quick spray
Thanks!
You're welcome