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TPA3116D2 audio amplifier 100w at 2 Ohms?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2020
- After reviewing this single channel board a while ago, people told me to test it with a 2Ohhm load. Here goes...
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Email: johnaudiotech@gmail.com
Thank You!
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Isee this video when it comes out, and 4 years later seeing it again, I only have to say thank you.
I love how you have a cat in your workshop John. My cat always wants on my lap when I'm sat at the electronic workbench and it makes soldering and hooking up wires quite a challenge!
If you keep testing amps like this every week, perhaps teach us how to hook them up to preamp and power, I'll guarantee your channel will grow
Power is easy. Most***** of these 4$ Mono/Stereo amps use a single DC source between 12v and 24v. The higher the voltage used, the more power can be extracted from both 8 and 4 ohm speakers. There may also be more waste heat, so sink/accordingly. Basically, I have a few of these boards in service, and I can get around 60w peak @ 24v input power. That's around 2.5a. Buy a single DC switching power supply that can supply around twice this per channel... Or, ideally, a larger 24v Switching power supply that can supply enough power for all your channels X2. For a stereo setup, that's a 10a 24v switching supply - you'll be sharing grounds, and you'll be less likely to get any hum. 2 of these and a 240w, 24v switching supply will cost you under 50$ shipped. I have a few in service (modified, mainly for subwoofers, using some very mediocre 6dba/oct low-pass filters, which are also available there).
Connecting power is as simple as throwing your VCC and - lines between the amp and the power supply, and hooking up a 3 (grounded!) cable (You know all those ATX power supply cables everyone has around 500 of? Those are great for this) between your wall AC and the switching supply.
**** Some of these boards do require biased +/- voltage. These produce better sound, typically, as the peak to peak voltage is either double that of a cheap amp, or require fewer components, as many of these cheap single DC source amps do their own +Vcc / -Vcc conversions.
I have never needed a preamp on a 3-5$ BTL board like this. I can routinely get 60w @ 24v into 4 ohms peak. More than enough for their intended application. For 100w applications, you'll be looking at biased voltages, and perhaps a small preamp. I've yet to find a preamp that does a good job on single source DC, so adds another level of difficulty to the entire setup.
Remember, Double the output power of the amp and you're only gaining 3db at the speaker level. If you want to double the perceived volume of that speaker (if you can, without frying it) you need to increase the amplifier power by ~10x. You're much better off buying a better speaker with an extra 5db sensitivity, than you are trying to find one that can handle 600w, often with a lower sensitivity.
@@Arcygenical how to connect 2 of this with single SMPS. Whats volt and amp smps needed? Do i need preamp suggest any from AliExpress.
@@jakk2ahao Totally depends on your goal. **Short reply:** for 2 8ohm speakers, 200w supply @24v, no preamp unless you have a very poor input source. A good audio-grade capacitor is more important than a premamp IMHO, and especially if you are using a preamp (they don't like being under-supplied).
That means you're going to want a 24v supply that can deliver at least 4a per amplifier board for a 2x 8ohm impedance. 24v 250w for a 4ohm impedance.
As for a preamp, this totally depends on your input source (and I'm going to say, likely skip it). For a cellphone 3.5mm jack only system, just about any 24v preamp should suffice (and even then, you likely won't need one if you adjust your gains and expectations).
Just connect all boards in parallel to your supply, with the capacitor also in parallel if you chose to use it. You'd be surprised how little a 2 speaker 8ohm system actually draws, so quality, IMHO, is more important than quantity on the SMPS supply. For the cap, invest in a few 30v audio grade-caps, They're large, but worth it.
I have videos explaining this and my channel hasn't blown up yet 😂
Thank you for testing this, I had my doubts... great video, real test and valuable info! Keep up the good work
I am on my second project using a set of these 3116 mono boards - my first one was a set of dedicated monoblock amps to drive some 2 ohm subs. I have to say: they have been in service being driven by a 24 volt switching supply for 3 months now. They are NOT fan-cooled, but DO get rather warm. However - they have taken a LOT of abuse where they are getting used at. My new project I am working on now implements these for similar 2-ohm subs, but will be cooled by a fan. For less than a few bucks, these will really push cheaper subs pretty hard and certianly take a lot of abuse.
Hi John, You really know your amps and what they can do, that's why I watch every video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Hey Snickers. Wouldn't be a JAT video without 'Ol Snickers, well it would be, you know what I mean. All the best, C.
Thank you for your research into this board. Because of your excellent video, I Just installed these into some speakers and loving them! I covered the components on the left speaker board with silicone. I Will see if either board fail from the vibration! They work well with my bargain (£20) Mordaunt Short 902's.
My S.M.S.L SA-36a Pro has the TPA31186D2. Rated from 4-8 ohms 20-8 watts per channel. If I recall class D chips can't handle 2 ohm loads, it's almost a dead short for them. I will say this series of chips are impressive, I've powered speakers big and small with mine and it doesn't lack power at all while sounding great. I have maxed out the supplied power brick.
this chip also comes as another board without heatsink and inductors i think.
which you can mount on a bigger heatsink, and attach bigger coils to it also.
Excellent demo, thanks John! I've used quite a few of these amps and they really are incredible for the price. One caveat, the heatsink is just glued on, not sure how effective the glue is at conducting heat, but I've had a few heatsinks fall off, some of them arrived in the post like that. It would be super cool to see a video of you modifying this board in an attempt to hit 100W, you think you could do it? ;)
Haha, I tell you, if the glue is hot glue, it will come loose very easily. I have had many small battery charging boards fall off from the tiny smd ic melting my hot glue :3
Great analysys! Love the cat. I have two and a parrot and amazingly, all three get along.
That's neat that they get along.
Love the video - always happy when I see a JohnAudioTech video;) Just curios if you’ve seen my Class D series I’ve been working on?
Hi kiss, I'll have to check that out.
I will take a look.
Could you use a laser thermometer to check temperatures on PCB's?
I've come back and done this test on some of my TPA3116 boards. I managed to get just over 100 watts (barely) at 24 volts from a 15 amp supply into a 2 ohm non inductive load but man ohh man does everything get hot. Stupid hot even. Bottom line is 50-60 watts bursts and it'll work, for a while at least.
Amazing chips, even though they're probably fake, the boards sometimes selling cheaper than the chip itself. I've made and entire 2.1 amp with 3 pbtl 3118 chips. Things to consider are replacing the filter caps with genuine low esr ones, and maybe bump the capacity a bit. Another thing is the hiss, which comes from high gain config of these boards(nice feature if you don't plan to use a preamp). A simple smd resistor removal will drop the internal gain from 32/36dB to 20dB, eliminating hiss, but will require a preamp. Also, if you're buying this board or the stereo version of it, get the one with the heatsink that's screwed in rather than glued, and put some paste on it.
that -6db at 10khz actually helps me, i don't need an l-pad filter for my tweeter anymore haha
Could I ask what pre amp you are using? I'm looking for one myself. Great content by the way. I don't understand everything you talk about but I'm trying hard to learn.
Great information and review! Newby at this, but was wondering if this would be suitable to connect a lavalier mic to amplify the sound of an electric motor? I would connect two small speakers to it. Thank you in advance.
Thanks ! very good video. I am thinking of using these as part of a dual amp setup. I want to separate the lower frequencies with a DSP and drive the woofers with this amp and an LM4766 amp for the higher frequencies. Do you think that is the best way to go? My thinking is the class D amp will be faster responding and you wont hear the minor hiss from the woofer. I added a zobel and thiel network filter to the output to the 4766 amp. Do those kinds of filters help with damping on this TPA3116 D class amp too?
Really helpful Video.
I ausing one of these boards to power my 8" JBL Subwoofer on a solar powered boat. I works ok.
I own two of the amplifiers that were tested on this channel (this TPA3116D2 here and the TDA7492 2x50W) and would like to share what I found out about one feature that was not mentioned in the tests: The TPA3116D2 makes a popping sound every time the power supply is turned on, the TDA792 does not do that. I do not have the ability to analyze the technical features of the devices but I thought this might be relevant to some people... I am now trying to use a relay on the speaker cable that connects the speakers a short time after the amplifier is turned on to get rid of the popping sound.
tpa3116 is made by texas instruments and the tda7492 is made by ST microconductor so theres not made or built the same
Can you review the Ice Power boards? Maybe even just the design.
The input for this amplifier has to be amplified? And if yes a sound board with 3w sound output is enough?
Those coils are labeled as 33uH, but keep in mind that the data sheet recommends 10uH coils. So, the snubber will have a lot of attenuation above about 1KHz which explains why you saw that high attenuation / roll-off at 10KHz. Still, you were trying to evaluate this at lower bass frequencies. and the power there, I think The TPA3116x is not going to perform to its potential without some additional heat spreading and like you said, a fan. If you add the proper cooling the 3116 will give you 100W at 24V but you need to really beef up the cooling. Agree this is a crap design from China, but the potential is there if you take the measures to support it.
I actually got these because of your video. It's been wonderful. Except the glue holding the heat sink fell off one
I used a laptop powersupply even tho I could use more Volts it seems to work well.
Give a big hug to Snickers on my behalf. Yesterday I lost my beloved Copernico to a terrible illness and I would kill to have him here and hug him once more.
Very sorry to hear about your loss. Always tough to lose a pet.
Thanks to you I'm gonna buy 4 of this.
Bypass the diode, add some cap!
56wrms of Clean amp is better then 100wrms of dirty amp
Plan to use it with dsp so this amp gonna power directly to my speaker.
Hey John i got a question, i want to use 2x 3116D2 amps in order to build a Bluetooth speaker. I have a spare HP Printer power supply rated 32volt 2.5A. Iam planning on using that with a step down converter (to get it to 24V) in order to operate both of those 2 amps.
Will that work or will i definitely need a higher output power supply?
what type of capactors should i buy for fixing tv and stereo? normally they run up to 50v but their are some that go from 160 to 450 would you ever need these types of sizes.
What is the ampere needed for this board @24 V dc
Hi John how come all these cheap amplifier make a big thump when turned on/off can you do a vid how to fix that problem please 👍👍
I came here to see Snickers.
YA! BRING ON THE CAT! your not boring john but honestly if your not an eletronics engineer it doubtful anyone would understand what your talking about. sorry im stupid.
Doesn this amp have a small low pass filter since it’s mono? Which would explain the drop above 70hz? Remember seeing somewhere, that the mono version of this amp has a low pass filter that drops off slowly like 3db after 70hz?
hello I bought this amplifier, I want to mount it in a portable radio and I will power it with 14 volts with 4 3000 mha 18650 batteries (approx) in 4S, I am looking for suitable 3 inch square speakers what can you recommend?
i have a stereo tda3116d2 board an i am going to try running it with a pair of 3.5ohm speakers .
I think your state of the art multimeter is able to measure temperatures, am I right?
Hey John, my TPA3116 board just went silent. Was working fine until I installed 3.3uF 100V audio caps across the speaker outputs. And now its dead. Any idea if I fried the chip or what could have happened?
I would assume those output inductors are pushed beyond saturation. Would like to see the same test with bigger chokes. Output caps should also be changed to 1uF for 2R load.
Hi John,
Isn't it more acurate to confirm te 24v on the power connection from the board in stead of the voltmeter inside the power suply? Or does youre power suply have remote sensing?
I'd lose a tenth or two of a volt. It isn't that important for this test. It is just more effort I'd have to make to measure that.
Nice One John That Lil Snickers Is A Wise Cat
Why Not Push Some Hip-hop Bass Through That Little Amp Just For Fun ? Maybe Add Some Caveman Heat Sinking ? ?
Hi John schottky diodes often have quite high reverse leakage, which can sometime's make them a bad choice for reverse polarity protection a better solution is a P channel fet especially at higher current levels,..
Love your vids thanks for your efforts in sharing you skill and knowledge.... Steve
Tested to Destruction , Interestingly, I agree. However, you might want to list the downside... reduced voltage ratings.
Hi John - I asked this question on your original 2018 review but I will ask it again here. Do the TPA3116 amp chips create/use a charge pump on the output H-bridge to double the input supply voltage? You are supplying 24 VDC yet your scope indicates about 34 Vrms display=12, so (2 * 12/.707=34) 34 volts peak-to-peak where I would expect 12 volts peak-to-peak. Thanks again.
What video did you see this? It's been a while so I'd have to rewatch them. At 24v and 4 Ohm load, I was getting around 15v rms, or 42.4v pk-pk. This is normal for a bridge amplifier with typical losses. No charge pump.
I would like to see some instruction on how to find parts on Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. I always struggle trying to locate parts.
I think it's partly there fault, there diffently make it difficult. I love having part books you can flip through
The peak voltage is Vp=sqrt(2PR) and the peak current is Ip=sqrt(2P/R). For 100 W this means 4 Ohm: 28.2 V, 7.1 A and 2 Ohm: 20 V, 10 A.
Bullshit
Im running it bare in my car to run single 2ohm subs at 75% volume. so far its amazing for the price. waiting for my aluminium case to arrive
Are you serious man??!!!
@@JonJon501 it absolutely worked
i've taken it out and replaced it with another TPA amp. Still needs to be turned up a fair way, but less so.
@@JonJon501 dont expect this chip to be LOUD in the car. i really had to turn it up, but it worked and was acceptable
Short the diodes..... I like your thinking... where there's a will....
Hi John can it be replaced dioda with 1N4007?
I have over a half dozen of these various cheapo digital tripath and class-d amps sitting next to me lol. Most of them are pretty awful, but a few were surprisingly decent. I think most of us buy them with the plan to use them in something portable filled with batteries.
Diode can be replace with low voltage high current pmos like infineon mosfet
What is the best speaker for this amp?
Those kids with their "Hip and Hop"!
We have both types of music here, country And western!
Kpop ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
hip hop was in the 80', 90'.. kids who listened to it are all grownups by now.
They were all out on the street popping wheelies, "Wheelie poppin" they used to call it.
We'd have got away with rock music if it hadn't been for those pesky kids.
which module is the best with this chipset?
what's the subject of your PHD?
I have bought this and the stereo tye amp. I found a typical lazy chinese design flaw, the heat sink touches the caps before the get full contact with the chip. and the only insulation for shorting out the caps is the alu oxide layer in the heatsink. I milled out pockets for the caps.
Have they made a mistake with the build? Looks to be 4 small identical capacitors, 2 are for the input but what are the other two for? The data sheet says you need to connect the left inputs directly to ground for it to work in BTL mode. Have they got one output just sitting idling? This is what it looks like if you can get 50 watts easily. Might be worth checking each output half separately (scope between output and ground for each half) to make sure they are both doing something. The datasheet also claims full output with just a small heatsink. www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf
Hey John, in what ways would you modify the board in order for it to be more solid at 2 ohm? Bigger (or no) diode, bigger coils, fan, anything else? Do you think this is achievable or worthwhile? I have one of these laying around and I'm building a home theater sub with a 2 ohm car sub driver (not much variety of choice here in Argentina) and I'd love to be able to repurpose this board instead of buying a new amp.
Yes, eliminate the supply protection diodes, bigger coils to handle the current and fan on the heatsink.
@@JohnAudioTech thanks!!!
what need to change for handle 2 ohm at high supply voltage like 19v? that diode on DC input larger or bypass? and that coil on output?
Bypass or change the diodes, fan on heatsink, Change coil and caps on the output filter to suite 2 Ohm load.
Nice video John! As you mentioned- the TP311x *device* can do 100W in 2ohm stereo- everything around it on the board? ... not so much. The cards you find online featuring the TPA311x are usually built to sell for less than the price of a good cup of coffee- usually with an application circuit copy and pasted from the data sheet or EVM, but with all of the components swapped for cheap, underrated ”no name” components (or even removed completely 🙄 ). Frequently the guys who are spinning out these designs assume that the EVM they pulled everything from is over-designed. However, it’s often the case that the components were chosen based upon the target market and application. If the target market is high volume low cost consumer electronics, we’ve already picked the cheapest parts that could barely meet the mainstream use cases. Otherwise, the target customers will leverage the cost of the external components in their price negations with the chip manufacturer. For their part, the chip maker expects that corner cases that are supported by the math are supported by reference designs or e2e support in the forums. These board designers don’t take this into consideration- and the person putting the power number on the box often knows less about “what a watt is” than Snickers the cat does.
The reduction in high frequency is likely because of on the output filter not having been designed for 2ohm loads. I would guess the frequency response of that filter is pushing down well below 20kHz with the 2ohm load. Perhaps you could make an argument that this is reasonable, since you’d not be (errr... *shouldn’t be*) running a high frequency driver at 100W continuous power with this amp.
The overall power drop is likely due to the increase in voltage drops across everything between the output pin and the load terminals. The output FETs are 90mOhm and the die has triple 2mil copper bond-wires on all of the power stage pins... but then you hit the lead frame, the copper traces, the DCR of the output inductor, the connector, the wires, etc. If you consider from the pin of the device to the terminals of the load as stage as half a voltage divider and the load as the other half, it doesn’t take long for those little voltage drops to add up compared with the 2ohm load impedance.... it’s even worse when everything gets hot. As As you know, 2ohms exacerbates the I2R drops because the power dissipated in each resistive element increases with the square of the current.
tl;dr - You likely would not want to use a $5 design with a taped on heat sink for any design that you intended to make lots of power into a low impedance.
Is it okay to use a symmetrical psu for tpa3116? I have a 12-0-12 transformer lying around.
The board requires 24 DC (typ), your transformer is AC. If you add rectifiers and capacitors as symetrical, you will get 12*1,41-0-12*1,41 or almost 17-0-17 Vdc or 34Vdc end to end - the board can't handle that ! All you can do is to rectify half wave (1 diode each side, center tap as ground, some big capacitors to smooth it) and you will get 17 Vdc, something that shall work, but the power will be limited to this voltage.... maybe you will get around 30~35w / ch in 4 ohms.
Chinese modules and boards specs are read like: It may theoretically reach this numbers, but not with the actual components used and was only tested in a lab by IC manufacturer without witnesses or guarantees, actual product is sold as-is and any use is done at your own risk.
In other words with a chunk of rock salt.
Even Snickers is skeptical about 2 Ohm load.
preamp needed ? tx
Hello,
Can you give me some advice, please? I have 2 of these amplifiers connected to 8 ohms speakers. The audio source is a laptop. When I connect my laptop to the power grid, a loud background noise starts to hear from the speakers. The same noise is heard but much more intense if I connect the amplifier to the pc. I have other amplifiers that do not have this problem with using the same laptop or pc. What can be done to fix this problem?
Hi, It is because of Common ground circuit within the PC/Laptop audio out put. It is the Noise . Use Signal noise Isolator.
@@Raamz111 what is signal noise isolator? Have some link?
Hey John, I have a few of these amps for a project, but I would like to have some sort of control over the crossover frequency of the audio input to different amps, do you have any recommendations about how I go about this? I'm considering a crossover frequency between 100 and 150hz, but I'm having a lot of trouble finding decent preamp crossovers
Op amp based filters are the way to go. Check out Elliot Sound Products for good circuits.
@@JohnAudioTech thank you! I was planning on using multiple amps, an amp per speaker, would you suggest I purchase a single larger amp, and place the high and low pass filters op amp? Or send the full range to every amp and and place high and low filters after each amp?
@@JohnAudioTech also I'd like to add some sort of gain control on the low end, so I can match the bass to the treble, also this whole project is battery powered.
@@sportbikeguy9875 It shouldn't matter much since each channel can be considered a separate amp as long as your power source can handle the current. You can add a potentiometer between the preamp/filter and the power amp to control the sound level.
Cs8673eฉันลองที่18vได้64w ฉันก็ไม่รู้เหมื่อนกันมันทำไมได้เยอะฉันจับดูที่เมนบอตร์มันร้อนมากโหลดที่2โอม
Why aren't those diodes from negativ to possitive, just shorting the input if wrong direction / polarity is connected.
Because there is no fuse. If you build it into a case with a standard power connector, it's unlikely that you'll get the polarity wrong, so maybe just bypass the diodes to prevent heating and losses in that case. They probably just include the diodes so they don't get too many people complaining that they've 'blown it up' because they made the mistake of connecting the power back-to-front, yet claiming that they didn't.
Problem is mostly the inductors. I've seen that same distortion above 10Khz when the inductors heat up on other TPA3116 amps. Still I rather like them, they don't sound all that bad.
Does it actually have original TPA3116D2 chip? I have been trying to find seller on Aliexpress but in reviews people who have taken heatsink off complain that it comes wtih different chip or fake chip. Just curious if yours performed this well with original or fake chip. And if it has original it would be interesting to see comparison of original vs fake.
nope different chip
Capacitors probably cost more than the amp 😁. Still a good idea imo if you like your bass.
Good speakers. Yes tank you. Its ia good to 18v 4ohms. Or 14v to 2ohms. And 4ohms is 50watts máx. And 2ohms is 62watts ok. 8ohms at 22v is 40watts ok... And no hig quality no is very very good. Its good price and good function easy power supplye simple dc power. Low consumer in amps... Is good to medium sound power yes is good to 2 speakers 4ohms or 6ohms yes power supply 14v or 15v yes with 3Amps its ok. To 2 pcs amplifier is good 16v with 5amps ok. Good projects for we and all gays.
Elna caps ? no way they are authentic, right ?
In Brasil its very used in many projetcs is good simple dc power to work example 15v 3amps to 4 ohms. 13v to 2ohms. And 20v to 8ohms and 16v to 6ohms. Is good sound no is perfect. Was be low price good to price to its ok. Go work with low cost. Low price yes its ia good to brasilian. Many projetcs is not big price. Yes good to value.. Medium quality sound. Was good work easy work and small peace amplifier nice small and good to medium sound is ok. To speakers 4ohms 60w or 80w is good. 6ohms 50w speaker is good work yes. Ok tank you for vídeo. And i like ok.
Try tpa3116d2 2.1 pls one with red pcb cheap
can I use for 6ohm woofer?
Yes
i had to redo head sink they globed on some junk on them lol one over heated on low power
Спасибо за видио...
I have one of these that I modded into a bass guitar amp.
Works really well for a DIY practice amp.
I use a Behringer mini 9 band eq with it.
Do you have a video on how you made it?
Did you use a preamp circuit?
@@catking7901 I use an active DI box with a preamp.
I also for bass will use. What power supply do you use for it?
@@pusipusi6929 I use a battery pack I made from old laptop cells.
HI John,, trying to find the URL for the Seller that you purchased your tpa3116d2 from and can't find the exact one,, Can you post the buying info? Thank you John,, Great Video. :)
2 Ohm Load? Forget it. For the price buy two amps and 4 speakers. 100W per side
Sir I want to know how come a 2.1 TPA3116 D2(2 TPA3116 IC) and a mono TPA3116d2(1 TPA3116 IC) requires or uses same power supply that is 24v. Please help me I am very confused. Waiting for your reply Sir.
24v is 24v what matters is the amperage aka flow of current. SOOO if you want to get 50w x2 @ 4 ohms you need 200w pwr sppy 200w is the peak and 100w is rms divided by 2 is 50w rms per ch x 2. 25v @ 8amps is 200w.
@JohnAudioTech
If I am right you should use inductive load as replacement of speakers. They will give you the right results. No one in world will use amplifier with resistive loads.
Using inductive load the amp will face difficulty only for low frequencies. Above 150Hz the Amp will feel relaxed. 😀
I hope you will consider my suggestion 😊.
I really appreciate your efforts ❤️.
Issues will all them... - I have similar feelings. Even this board, I just don't believe in the specs and it's capability of 2ohm in bridge.
Ah this 'music', dub steep, is that what it is, oscillations at very low freqs.
Hey, for $5 a pop, why not? 😁
Mine was 3$ shipping and $3.50 a board. Took the full 2 month for delivery
not for bass guitar amps
Mrrrrooooww 🤣
ive had a few of these and stereo ones fail .hmm not very loud so got two monos. prob not a 3116 in this. ive just taken hetasink off mine .its not! some tiny unmarked chip. wishi could upload photos ,its a joke