TPA3116 D2 mono audio amplifier board test & review
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2018
- This little board costs around $7 but can it deliver the goods? I run it through my usual battery of tests. Watch and find out what I think of it.
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
have been using several of these boards for over 7 months now. They have been prefoming flawlessly. Verry impressed!
HI John. Just been on Aliexpress and noticed I ordered some audio bits at that time, and that is when I found your channel, as I was looking for reviews on PAM8610 boards. I think you were at 8k subs, and you have more than doubled in that respect in a year. I'm sure I don't just speak for myself on this; Your style is unique, your delivery and knowledge is superb and you are the most consistent and honest reviewer I have seen on this platform.
Keep up the good work, I've said it before and i'll say it again, but you are an invaluable resource for us.
Thanks from a very hot England, Ben.
Excellent review, very thorough. Thank you very much for doing these John, much appreciated!
I received 2 of these both were fake sop16 ics with TPA3116D2 painted on them. Can’t get a refund until the product is shipped back. This video sold me on this module. Thing is with the fake chip it still says it’s pulling 30+w on my supply. Sitting idol it pulls 70ma. 24v supply. Really crappy distortion above 12v. This fake chip is fooling lots of people by looks of feedback on the item I bought. If you haven’t came across the fake one I’ll send it your way.
Great video, as always.
God Bless.
This is an incredibly thorough review, I think I will get one of these for experimenting.
Got one of these they really kick at 24v. Bluetooth speaker in progress. 4" dayton in a .25cu/ft ported box tuned at 39hz. Can't wait to finish and hear it
Did you finish the project?
I'm looking for an amp for 45w dayton drivers
Thanks for doing this review John; I've been waiting in anticipation. As I mentioned to you in an email, I made a busking rig out of one of these boards without knowing what I was doing and wanted to get your thoughts on the board. Great stuff. You've confirmed that even an electronics idiot like me can, under the pressure of low income, make a decent and useful amplifier for my purposes which is live music performance using batteries for power. And like you said at the end, "get a couple and make a stereo amplifier out of them" could well be my next project. A million thank you wishes from DownUnder. Cheers John! Don
You have an interesting story. I'd like to mention it in my best-of amp roundup if you don't mind (and share the link to your recordings). I've watched a few busking videos and I'm floored when I see the talent out there on the street. One thing for sure, you guys get a lot of time to practice!
Thank you John. I don't mind sharing in fact I'm honoured. Keep up the good work. DM
I play Bass, how does the amp soud with your instrument???
Plan to drive a 12'' 4 ohm speaker.
Now I know it can be done.
Thank you for your experience.
Great review as ever. There is a stereo version of this amp. Would you expect similar performance or would it be better to put two together? Thanks again
Waw...finalmente um classe D com a performance de um AB..obrigado por disponibilizar estas informações!!!!
I love how Simply Built the amplifier board is👍
Woah. That's a great review.. It succeeded in all the tests pretty well
I got one of these based on Johns review and added some thermal compound under the heat sink. I'm very happy with this. It's amazing what it will do with 18V supply and 30mA.
Hello John. I am a seasoned design engineer from many different disciplines. I am now retired and decided to venture into a new domain of designing tube amplifiers and Class A preamplifiers. I got hooked on these inexpensive boards off Amazon mostly the TPA Class D variety and improving upon them. I have 2 of these boards I have not even opened. You saved me a lot of time and I am now inspired to build a stereo amplifier with them. You have taught me test techniques FFT/Hanning skills, and too much to even list in so many different areas. I have watch hours and hours of your humble well presented videos. Thank you so much for the unselfish time and effort you put into these awesome videos. I have nice test equipment and a large inventory I have gathered through the years.you help separate the good from the bad and moves me forward with motivation to package many of the board you like without hardly any out of pocket expense otherwise. Again Thank You ! Respectfully, Mike DocsRadioDen
Hi Mike, Thanks for the comment. Glad to be of inspiration.
@@JohnAudioTech Thank you Sir. John !
Just seen this video , and so pleased to see good results , as i used 2 of them to build my amp with 2 24V power supplies running some Wharfdale VALDUS 400 speakers , adopting phone inputs (along with the addition of bluetooth mainly for use with my tv) the sound is great and with plenty of power in reserve.
I bought two one of them the heat sink fell off.
I have been building Lm386-m & using 8610. I'm working my way up. Once I figure out how to put the heat sink back on. I'll Install them in a Arcade Mechine.
Thanks for all your help it's saved me a lot of money.
Great review, i just ordered two today. Thanks !
Finally.. John was satisfied.... With decent output.... I really wanna buy that....
lolololol
The TPA3116 is a great chip amp, as long as it has a good heatsink and good complimentary components. Give them 24v and they can do 50w at under 1% distortion all day. What more could you want?
@@rich1051414 the link to the one from the video :)
@@bunsoft2 www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSX342S
This one is mono, you will need two for stereo. Theres stereo versions you can find on amazon too.
@@rich1051414 thank you mate. Have a great day.
Let me first start by saying how much I appreciate your channel excellent work, honest, in-depth enough and not boring.
My request is a possible review of tpa3255 amp..??
I am happy, I have bought 2 of these stereo amps. Setting them up as BT receiver amps.
@JohnAudioTech thanks for this review, I just purchased one of these to replace a failed amp in my Tannoy Subwoofer. It seems to work well so far. Do you have any recommendations for this purpose?
Thank you John! after extensive views of your channel... picked up a Sanwu SW-HF23 (TPA3116 - 50+50W, bridgable), in Poland... will try with 18.5VDC notebook brick... or 24VDC 10A SMPS
What makes it bridgeable? Are they not all bridgeable?
i ran a edge 900w 350w rms 4ohm subwoofer on this amp and when it gets to the flex hz it sure dose flex it a lot
Hi John, I happen to have such a mini amp and intend to use it for a Bluetooth speaker project. I have several options for the bluetooth. I could go for a simple KRC-86B module or find myself a BT board with integrated amp options. Most of the time those are like 2x3W. Pro for those amps is the bells and whistles with extra's like 3,5mm audio jack input (besides using BT) and even an option to add a SD card as source.
Did you ever test such boards? Is it possible to daisychain such a board to a TPA3113 D2?
Thanks for the answer and thnx for the informative video's so far.
Es un excelente dato, saber la eficiencia real es importante gracias por compartirlo, si podrías probar más módulos te lo agradecería
I'm thinking about upgrading the parts on one of these little boards. Do you know the inductance of those output filter coils? Maybe the 330 is indicative of 33uH?
Would like to see these "plug and pray" modules with the chip mounted on the opposite side, for mounting to a larger heatsink...
I got two of these and used them with a car stereo. After removing the negative speaker wires from the head unit they worked fine.
Another nice video. Could you include an input level for max output figure on your tests?
Thanks for all your work. Always interesting.
It's possible. It just takes a lot of time to test these amps. It did have enough gain to go into clipping from my headphone music player without needing the preamp.
Good technical detail in this video.
Can you do a review of the board XH-M590 which has the TPA3116 IC ? THANKS
I have questions -
1. How much power output can we expect on single 24 volts @ 4 ohms ?
2. If the gain of an amplifier is reduced to minimum recommended as on datasheet, will it result in more current (Amps) draw from the power supply ?
can you help me with the volume, as we need a screw driver to operate it ? can I connect the audio in to the loudspeakers terminals of my car radio so i can operate volume with the radio ? if so can I set the volume on board to max?
4 Channel 100W*2 50W*2 TPA3116D2 Digital Stereo Audio Power Amplifier Board I have this board I just ordered and wonder if its any good. Replacing the High Power Digital Bluetooth Power Amplifier Board TDA7498 HiFi Stereo 2*100W got them both off eBay had to replace the old one because when turned up it cuts off and have to power off and one to get sound back. I figured with 2 additional outputs I can get rid of the crossovers and the 50 watts can go to new mid range twiter combo speakers. and in hopes of getting better sound. whats your input.
Thank you, can you recommend a pre amp for this, also a good blue tooth stereo board please.
What kind of circuitry/board is needed for this amp to support speaker level in/out connections to satellite speakers.
Anyone besides me think “when i open this bag, I’m adding air imported from China into my room”
hahahahahahah, is this a joke?
It should be deported
Since earth rotates to the east, the air from China flows thru Europe first as 2nd hand air, then 3rd into US. Thanks for filtering out the bad air.
Yep. And dust etc. Not in a negative way.
This comment didn't age well ahah
*corona virus intensifies*
intend to use that board to make an external cabinet ( BASS guitar ) for my small amp.
Do you think the amp will drive a 4 0hm 12'' speaker???
What do you think???
I tried to measure fr. response with Holmimpulse or Arta via my USB soundcard and I get a lot of noise, as soon as I connect ground probe to output (at fairly low level). Is there some kind of special procedure with those D-class amps?
How would you go about building a stereo system with 2 of those mono amplifiers?
I'm a bit new to this. I just bought this amp and want to use it asap, but nobody seems to be able to show me how to wire the damn thing up. Could you please help?
have the seller on ebay? And tks for posting, like the way you present this type of info, much better than most on youtube. Never mind, found it, will order a couple for my desktop pc.
VEry good video. You are a Professional !
hey. So i Did Recently Get 2 80wRms and 180W Peak
Speakers
And I Want to Run Them in my Car. My Question is. The Car Battery is about 12V
Which Will Only Deliver 6W
How Can i Get a Coverter From 12v to 24V ?
or Can i Serie Connect The Car batteries Making a 25.2V Battery at Full Chrarge
Nice review! I have a mono TPA3116 amp with 3 terminals, +, - and GND for input signal, any advice on how you connect these to a mono source?
Actually reading this back, I guess + and - are signal, and GND is for shielding?
Heating test on continuous power over a longer time period would be good. While 'normal' music isn't like a continuous signal, a lot of modern 'pop/edm' is compressed and clipped so much, that the average level is very high, while also being very bass heavy.
At what power did you check the frequency response?
I got two of these boards online. I am trying to figure out how to pass a stereo Left & Right channel into them correctly. I am wiring a aux 3.5mm stereo jack to the inputs, but when testing left and right it appears to drop either the left channel or right channel. How can I correctly multiplex both Left and right from the 3.5mm into this kind of amp.
You should thank Texas Instruments for making the TPA3116D2 chip.
Hi, could you review the Nobsound TPA3116D2, it is the same chip but not the same design, thanks.
Hey John. Kindly review the TDA7498 dual channel amplifier board. It has the best rating I've seen yet. Thank you.
Hi. I have seen another video before, in which you tested another board with a TPA3116 amplifier (red board) which had some problems with the preamp and ceramic capacitors (I remember you bypassed the preamp with an electrolytic capacitor).
Is this blue board better than the previous one?
Do you have any problem like the above? Which one would you recommend?
Thanks in advance
Yes, this board is better but all the ones that I tested used the wrong value of output filter coils that roll off high frequencies too early.
I have problems with this board. Intermodulation occurs at 3.3KHz and higher. New signals appear in the audio range especially at high frequencies. Probably because of the 2.5Khz - 5.7KHz spikes at 0V input (not sure where it comes from actually. Ut rides along the 990KHz sawtooth wave). i don't know why it happens. It sounds great but I'm worried about this issue. How to fix this?
Can you use both audio inputs at the same time on these TPA3116D2 amplifiers?
My first 3116 board suddenly started acting up in one channel. The sound comes on and off like an oscillation .I can't figure out why.
The second one is still running.
I am running it with a 18v transformer which after adding a filtering capacitor pushes the voltage to 26v. I used 8 diodes in series with the power supply to drop it to 20v. Can I run it without dropping the voltage at 26v?
Also do you know what ails my first board where the sound comes on and off in one channel?
Both boards are dual chip.
Thanks in advance
Sir, can you make a test on a class D amp XH-M252 TDA8954TH Dual Chip. it says can reach 420w per chanel
Hello John, do you think that it can be used as power amplifier guitar for example to build a home guitar head amplifier? A preamp is recommended I suppose....Thank you congrat for video
I don't see why not. Yes, you'd need a preamp.
Very good review but could you please post a link to it? AliExpress, ebay, whichever suits you best
Thanks for the video! Glad to see you surviving the heat. Glad to see you checked the idle hiss, I find that is an important test for women as well as amps, the only difference is if they find out we were measuring that, power out spikes with maximum distortion. Take care bud!
Brilliant 😂
Which one is better for building bluetooth system TDA7297 or TPA3116 ?
Parameters
Sound Clarity
Clear mids
Glittering treble
Punchy bass
Nice video, thanks. I would like to see the squarewave response on a scope under different load conditions.
Hi Jhon, is there a way to know if my tpa3116 is original or fake? I recently bought one but the chip has no data and is very thin it could be a copy
Do you have any comparison with TDA7498 boards? In my experience, TDA7498 has better gain!
I actually build a guitar amp and I put one of these inside it. So far it's still working. It's loud enough to practise at home but not loud enough with a band.
Did you use 24V supply?
What power supply do you use for it?
@@boyfarrell yes 24v
But what is the optimal power spurce and how many amps is ok 18v vith 500 mp
Hi John - Thanks for doing this detailed video. I am confused on how a single-supply amp such as a TPA3116 with a max VCC=26 volts can produce 100W @ 2 Ohm load in mono mode unless the h-bridge circuitry somehow uses charge-pumps to increase the voltage swing to greater than supply. For example, the spec sheet recommends a 24 VDC brick. So that would give a 12 Vpk, or 8.512(.707)=8.5 VRMS, giving a max power of (8.5)^2/2=36W, which is far off of 100W. You show at 2:15 that you are supplying 16 VDC which should yield a Vrms=5.7, yet at 4:03 the VPP is 28.2 VDC and Vrms=9.71V. I have read the spec-sheet and am struggling to understand this. Can you suggest an explanation? Does the device use charge-pumps, and if so, wouldn't that reduce the max current that it could supply? Thanks again.
Ignoring the few volts of loss, with a bridged configuration and a 24v supply. At max peak +voltage, side A amp (as I'll call it) of the bridge has its upper transistor fully open to the positive rail and amp B's lower transistor is open to supply ground, so +24 volts across the load. Now let's say the waveform transitions to max negative, so now the lower transistor in amp A is open to ground and the upper transistor of amp B is open to the supply. Now there is -24v across the load. The full cycle yields 48v pk-pk or 24v pk which is about 17v rms. With a 2 Ohm load, this would dissipate 144 watts. The bridge doubles the max voltage the amp can deliver for a given supply voltage. Double the voltage means double the current into a given load and that results in 4x the power. Losses in a real circuit means output won't reach this level. Hopefully this makes some sense.
@@JohnAudioTech That just clicked!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to respond.
Nice One John
How about turning them little speakers you just bought into active monitors using some small boards like this ?
Have a Good Day Fella
how to fix pop noise on the speaker , at start power supply ???
Hi, I would like to use some of these amplifier circuits for my 2.1 setup. What is the best way to power the sub? I think it will need a crossover but I am not entirely sure how I do it.
Thanks!
I would use an active crossover.
i just thought of somithing, dont remember if you mentioned this is a video before or not, but with bridge amps, how do you scope it? if you just scope one side of a BTL amplifier your wattage reading will be WAY low.
I scope across the output. My power supply is floating (unless I use the ground connection) so it won't short one side of the output.
Hi John, thanks for the review and for sharing your knowledge! I got a lot of noise if the vol-knob isnt near min or max. Any idea how to fix that? Is the knob just a variable resistor? Thanks!
A lower resistance potentiometer for the volume knob. A lot of them use a 100k pot when they should be using a 20k to 50k pot.
The only issue i had with this board is the mechanical fixing f the heatsink - it seams to be epoxy or CA glue?!?! I purchased 20 of these and 4 of them arrived without the heatsink attached.
John, I am beginning my very first bluetooth speaker build, and kinda swinging for the fences. I had a 1946 Philco radio cabinet, was already gutted and never knew what to really do with it. I have finally gotten around to wanting to install a bluetooth amp board in the cabinet and go that route. I do not know much about wiring, etc. Is there any chance you could do a video on a build to help me out? I am unsure of which board to use, I am leaning towards the one from this video though. I want to be able to wire in a potentiometer to control the volume, using the original location on the face of the radio. I also want to do the same with an on/off switch in original location. I am really unsure on the wiring up of all of these components. Any help is appreciated!
Also would like to add in lights to light the original display up, and possibly add aux cable
a question, the table of results that it does based on 4Ohms and 8 Ohms is "Watts RMS"? Example 24v - 28.1 (in4ohm) - 51.8 (in8ohm)
I'd like to know that too
Doing some testing on various Class D amps with the small inductors like this one, what I've seen is that if you leave them loaded for a few minutes the high frequency distortion goes way up. Say 10Khz or above. I've watched FFT's where you can see the distortion build as the inductors heat up. Would be curious if you see the same thing. Perhaps a video opportunity.
I'd have to check this out. Perhaps letting the inductor warm and cooling it to see the result.
Trying crossover design using this amps.. it seems there is a boost on higher frequency.. its not flat.. and when using Xsim design.. there difference between simulation and real measurements.
Hello John,
Greetings from Serbia...
Please help me about this amps.
I installed 11 amps in my bus to make active speakers in passinger deck. It works very nice.
But when I finished then I suprised.
When I start dimmer for low intensity led lights, speakers got loud buzz!
I try to connect power supply from the other sorts and no changes.
I disconnected amplifiers from head unit and start supply and dimmer for lights, amps make buzz without sound.
I don't know what to do.
It connect parallel 5 amps on right side, and 6 amps on left side.
Thank you and
Best regards
Hey John. I've a bit of confusion. The mono version of tpa3116 you tested here delivered about 50w into 4ohms mono. However, the same chip is used in another Amp you reviewed from breeze Audio. And it's 50w into TWO channels. Can you tell me why is that? Love from Pakistan!
Abdullah Iftikhar creo que fue por qué fue a 24v y 30 mah pero quizá al aumentar a por ejemplo 5000mah se puede tener los 100w
I have seen in some video that this board is actually not having TPA3116 ic under its heat sink, instead it has some other IC which is not even having a number on it.
But still if it performs good, then it is actually appreciable.
Can you please take measurements of 2ohm load @24volts?
Do you have any review of tpa3118?
I have test this tpa3116 vs Tda7498 ,tpa3116 is very open sound ,nice bass n very loud than tda7498, but tpa not very detail sound , recommended for home audio
Why you are not using amp. measurement software like REW, rmaa, arta? Its common between sound community
Would you be ok to run this at 24v at 4ohm full time or would you recommend a lower voltage to operate on?
If you like to play it loud with a lot of bass, I'd back down to 18v so the board doesn't overheat.
Been waiting for you to review something like this, I have the stereo version of this board, and I guess I was unlucky then, hiss isn't quiet up to what I could call "hi-fi" though it's pretty tolerable (have my speakers nearfield), but my board was a bad sample I guess, the heatsink came glued at an angle, like if some poor Chinese worker doesn't get paid enough.
Anyway, when I turn it on, the left channel makes weird noises for about a minute or so, then stops, sounds like some low frequency rumble.but sometimes produces high-mid frequencies too and sounds like the wind. Gladly after 1 minute or so it stops and becomes stable.
Also one of the channels measures 0mV DC offset and the other one 10mV, 10mV is fine, but it's weird that they measure differennt.
Most of them are just sweat shops show some Humanity!
Great video, a lot of info, but TPA3116D2 is designed for 2 x 4-8ohm loads, in this mono build you should also measure it with 2ohm load to see if you can get close to that advertised 100W power
Bought a couple of these and found that there is a loud "pop" at switch on - did you have this problem? ( I am running from a 12DC lead acid battery to simulate a car installation). Any information would be great.
sorepaws put a speaker relay protection board.
I have run this board in my samurai offroader. The sound is nice. But after a few months am getting some issue of sound off and on in one channel.
So right now I fitted a genuine tda 7297 on the car again .
I don't know but I found the sound of tda7297 to be much more fuller and deep than the 3116 .
And being an older style chip set it seems more rugged than the tpa with its thin legs . For car use I still prefer being old school I guess.
Could you recommend me a oscilloscope for me to start? i was looking at UNI-T UTD1025CL. Do you think it's a good idea? IT's portable. IT looks to me like the table oscilloscope has a lot mor fuctions. Not sure though.
I don't have experience with that model. I'd look for some reviews on it.
What this amplifier can work with DC 5Volt???
You could have done a 2 Ohm test because the TPA Chip is run in a PBTL Mode where the actual two channels are run in parallel
Hello
I'm planing to make a sound system for home and going to use that board, my question is the sound clear on them ? like i wont need an equalizer or something like that? cuz i dont know how to do that.
Frequency response is flat and distortion is low, so go for it.
I'm going to use the Bluetooth version of this which has no rca ports for audio signal, powering it with a 24v 5A power supply, is adding a DAC going to improve thesound? if yes how to fit it in the setup?
Isn't an analogue scope better than digital when your looking for unclean wave forms & updates faster
I wonder if I could replace a toasted STK-module with two class D amps like this. Unfortunately, the STK runs at 39 V, which is rather high. Can you recommend a class D amp that would be happy with a 39 V supply ?
There's some higher power class D out there I haven't tested yet. A lot of it is BTL out ICs. A lot of the hifi class D is discrete output circuits. These cost more so I don't get the opportunity to test them.
Thank you, John.
TDA7498E might be ok with that and also TAS5613. sure electronics have nice quality amp boards but if you want cheap you could find some options on ebay also
I had one that would run down to 4.2v and cut out at 4.1v
so 5v was its minimum. it was a random stereo single TPA3116 D2 chip one.
Most of these TPA3116 boards are ok but avoid the ones with bluetooth like the plague. they are horrible for playing games or music with any kind of short pauses in them. the standby on the bluetooth is overly slow and not sensitive enough and theres a delay when they detect music and actually turn on. enough to ruin a song or you wont catch really short quiet notes or stuff. I hate dealing with bluetooth stuff because the standby mode is so terrible and i wish it would just continuously be active so theres no delay at all or cutting in and out at low volume.
Can I use 19v 4.5amp
The TPA3116D2 is a stereo chip. Wonder why the designer went for a mono amp configuration.
Probably to get better channel separation with 2 physical units.
there are tpa3116d2 stereo boards but this is BTL for more power.
Its already BTL per stereo channel - it has a parallel mode for extra power handling for a single channel. Not actually that useful from 24V max supply of course, but likely to mean the chip isn't very stressed and you'll may get lower distortion and noise in the parallel config.
If I use only (not using center wire) outer wirings of center tap transformer 12 0 12 this board does not work (4 diode full wave rectifier). It only works if I use center wire with one diode at each outer wirings.
Any reason? Also I tries combining rectified dc output of two 12v transformers still this does not work.
The output voltage from a rectified and filtered 12-0-12v transformer outer leads would be over 30 volts which is too much for this amp board.
@@JohnAudioTech Thanks John and good wishes. Thanks for help. I now applied LM7824 (with two 2n3055) to rectified and filtered output and now the card works.
Even 18v transformer with filtering capacitor pushes it to 26v. I reduced using a a series of diodes to about 20v
There are now "copied" 3116 chips out there called a "TPA3116D2DADR" that replace the genuine TI TPAa3116D2 chip. These looking nearly identical to this board.
If I send you one along with a donation to the cause can you test it? I also have a stereo version of this board. It is listed as 100Wx2 so I expected it to have two chips but it does not... That would also be interesting to measure to see what it can really deliver...
Very nice vidio... thanks...👍
How much amperes do I need for 24v supply on 4ohms? Planning to get one to use as a guitar amp.
3 amps should cover it.
@@JohnAudioTech Thanks! Another question. Does using a compressor/limiter prevent this amp from distorting while increasing the loudness?
Can you test tpa3116 dual channel.
How many amps for 22-24v 4 ohm?