DIESEL HEATER Emergency Power Cut Switcher 12v mains supply to battery backup in under 1 second auto
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- When you get a power cut your diesel heater can melt if it isn't shut down properly. with this power switcher, when there is a power cut, it automatically switches to battery backup. and when mains power resumes, it will switch back. great solution.
PUMPING HOT AIR INTO MY HOME
I bought one of these for my garage, and then thought....... I could heat my home with this! So that's exactly what i did! It is working great pumping hot air into my home. It is keeping us nice and warm and super economical.
I have a carbon monoxide detector just in case, but you don't get any fumes indoors at all
.
I hope this may help you in some way. Even if it just makes an idea pop up in your head, of how you can heat your home in cheaper way.
Thanks for looking at my videos cheers Andy..... If you can be anything, be Kind.....
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Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48sEbAb
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New control panel: amzn.to/49gvOrC
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12v power supply car socket style: amzn.to/3OMvo4v
link to heater U.S. : s.vevor.com/bfP62S
Kerosene Supplier: www.gbfuel.co.uk
U.S.A. Links:
Heaters: amzn.to/48SYbwc
Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48RBJUf
12v power supply: amzn.to/47XpuE0
Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/3SDGoTP
New control panel: amzn.to/48VVcD3
Mother Board: amzn.to/3SEXxfY
Ducting and joints : amzn.to/3UlMZn6
Diesel Heater ultra quiet fuel pump: amzn.to/4bjYYHZ
Diesel Heater Parts: amzn.to/48LFBG9
Diesel Heater Extension Cable Wiring: amzn.to/3u5LP4J
Battery Trickle Charger: amzn.to/3OknUoL
12v power supply car socket style: amzn.to/3vZdMf5
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Links:
Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48sEbAb
Heaters: amzn.to/3ZwMAPc
12v power supply: amzn.to/40iHO8J
Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/3ZwMAPc
New control panel: amzn.to/3GW0mDu
Ducting: amzn.to/3CF7l0W
link to heater U.S. : s.vevor.com/bfP62S
Kerosene Supplier: www.gbfuel.co.uk
Great call Andy ! , Excellent idea. I will be getting one of these for sure . Cheers 👍
cheers mate andy
I know these little devices, its basically a ups relay that reverts to its closed position utilising the battery dc circuit. Good little bit of kit.
thanks andy
Thanks for the great tip.... 👌🙏
My pleasure 😊 cheers andy
Thats really interesting. For 7 quid I didn't have high hopes 🤔🤔
yes, cheers andy
Ideally if you set the output voltage to just over 12v, eg 12.5v, the battery will remain fully charged and just float on the output from the power unit, if the mains fails, the battery will automatically power the heater, the heat won’t even notice it..when the mains returns, the power unit will provide power to the heater and charge the battery…only downside of powering with a battery if there’s a loss of mains, the battery could become discharged…depending on timescale…
I was going to say this, except for preferably at least 13v somewhere in the 13.4-13.8v range is usually ideal (check battery manufacturers float charge volume for specific volume). I have 2 heaters powered this way. Much simpler no changeover needed, no battery charger needed. Only a battery some wire and an additional fuse required
Great idea andy and another great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Good little gadget
yes, cheers andy
You might experience an issue with connecting and leaving a battery charger connected, if it was to switch over from mains power to the battery and the charger was suppling 15v to the battery, this could cause an over voltage spike and give you a fault on the unit.
Just make sure you keep the battery topped up when the heater is off.
thanks for sharing.
cheers andy
Hi Andy, I left a comment a couple of videos back where I was explaining about how I was using a dumb charger and a battery for powering my diesel heater (which still works great). The switch module which you have demonstrated in this video will work with some heaters and unfortunately not with others. With some heaters they will carrying on running (like yours did) and other heaters will go into a cool down period before switching off (which is a good thing) completely. My Hcalory just completely stopped working with no cooling down period at all so potentially would have fried my motherboard, hence the reason for me using a dumb charger with a battery. I tried different ways to get my heater to work with the switch module but it just stopped working every time so it must be a setting that’s in the software within the motherboard. Another experiment I tried was with relays instead of the switch module and it was the same outcome, the heater just switched off completely. The cost of a switch module isn’t a great expense so for some it’s worth a try.
someone gave me a good idea. that if we were worried about frying the mother board, just put it outside of the heater burner box. and then it wouldnt be a problem?
good point, i thought, i dont know what else could be damaged by a rapid cool down?
cheers andy
Hi Andy, great suggestion and thank you for your reply. Yet again great video, please keep them coming. What you’ve suggested is something I’ve thought about doing but dismissed it because it wouldn’t be getting airflow over the motherboard like it does from the fan when it’s in the housing when the heater is running. I, like you, have my heater set up in a box outside the house so if I were to put the motherboard on the outside of the casing I would have to try get an airflow over it. In my case it would mean another fan to cool the motherboard which then has to be powered…….And around and around we go!
@@user-xk5nl4sb2z Didn't know the motherboard is getting that hot that it needs cooling outside the heaterbox...
I have a new 5kw Hcalory standalone heater with a 12v 20A psu with internal voltage trimmer and was intending to use a switching controller unit with a battery like the one in this video but the switching delay you and others described put me off plus there is no trickle charge facility. After hunting about I used a dual shottky diode in a simple circuit described in this video by Alastair Reynolds:
th-cam.com/video/F2_Qm5Zn8_A/w-d-xo.html
The switching is instantaneous and by trimming up the voltage I can trickle charge the battery, I added another switch to optionally by-pass the trickle charge. I also added a voltage/amps reader mini display so I can monitor the charging.
I'm going to try this with mine. I found one with 2 boards for $7.22. I'll keep the second one for another project or for a backup.
great cheers andy
can you make a video on how to refill the diesel heater without messing around?
yes, i have a plan. adding this vid soon
cheers andy
I have the same set up I don’t understand why yours works mine When it switches over it takes about 2 to 3 seconds and then just the fan will run to cool down the unit which is good but the unit will not keep running like it never missed a beat.
no , me either. a couple of people have told me that if you just wire the battery in parallel with the power supply and set it at 13.8v.
it will switch straight over and keep charging the battery as well?
could give that a try? cheers andy
Thanks
I don't think that this is necessary. You can just connect power supply to the battery first and then from battery to the heater. Benefits of this is that the battery is also always fully charged.
thanks andy
Im pretty sure that will overcharge and shorten the life of the battery, we use battery chargers for a reason
What yiu need is a trickle charger
I believe that this kind of power supply is cc-cv based. If the voltage is set little under the float voltage of the lead acid battery will not harm the battery @@TomasFaalPetersson
Hi, Andy. As a few others have said. If you are using a powerful battery in your setup for reasons of possible power cuts and not wanting to possibly damage the heaters circuits, it would be best practice to connect the battery to the heater directly and to have a trickle charger then connected to the battery. This is a much similar and safe way to power the heater, and I think you'll find cheaper too.
I cobbled a 12v dc relay into my heater to switch to battery on power failure two years back. Yours is having the same issue I discovered when running the relay form the same supply the heater is using. (brown out) The power supply has big capacitors that keep the power flowing for a second after power failure. By the time the voltage is low enough for the relay to switch, the heater hasn't got enough power to continue properly and the computer glitches, hence the change in fan speed. I solved this by powering the relay from a small 12v wall wart that cut the power to the relay well before the power supply cut off. This stopped the brown out situation and the heater didn't notice a thing. I had to test a few wall warts to find one that cut out instantly, but once I found a suitable one the brown out problem was resolved. Hope this helps.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@@andyfireblade I just watched your newest video testing the relay on your outdoor heater. When you turned the power off it took a second, but the screen fully turned off. Then the relay switched to battery and luckily it recovered. When you reconnected the power it is seamless like it should be.
I don't feel this is ideal as quickly cycling power like that to devices can cause the CPU to glitch and possibly crash or even cause damage.
My relay setup was a little different to the device you are using. I just used a 12v 8 pin 2 pole relay. This allowed me to trigger the relay with a separate 12v supply that doesn't have a delay when the power goes off.
As the main power supply will run for a second once the power is removed, I powered the relay with a small wall wart that cuts power instantly. The relay then switches over to the battery before the main power supply has even started to turn off. This kept my heater running seamlessly without the screen even flickering a tiny amount.
It is a little more complicated to wire and requires another small power supply, but it does work seamlessly both ways. (possible solution to the extra power supply mentioned later)
I do like the simplicity of the relay you found, but I don't think you can power the relay from a separate supply like I could with the 12v 8 pin 2 pole relay I used.
The one i used was from amazon and was called
"Gereral Purpose Relay MK2P-I DC 12V Coil DPDT 8 Pin with Plug-in Terminal Socket PYF83A"
I built a battery box to house the battery, relay and trickle charger and put a switch on the battery box to isolate the battery from the circuit and charger.
I am not an electrician, but with a multi meter I worked out what terminals were connected when the relay coil was powered and un-powered. I connected the main power supply through the terminals that were connected the heater when the relay coil is powered, and the battery to the terminals that were connected to the heater when un-powered.
To turn the heater on I switch the battery on and the heater lights up. This tells me the battery circuit is working. Then I switch on the mains and I should hear the relay click and the heater is now running on mains power and the battery is trickle charging.
Initially I tried powering the relay from the same supply the heater was using (like you) but was having the same issue you have with the screen glitching when mains power is removed. I noticed that there was quite a delay between power being cut and the heater/relay actually reacting to the loss of power. This was when I tried powering the relay from a small 12v wall wart. I tried a few and most had a similar delay, but I found one in my drawer that reacted very quickly to the power going off. I used this to power the relay and it fixed the problem.
In hindsight I should maybe have used a relay with a mains powered coil to negate the need for the separate 12v power supply, but my original intention was to have the 12v supply that powers the heater power the relay coil too. So I just found a work around that enabled me to use what I had.
I just did a search and found this on amazon that looks to be the same relay I used but the coil is mains powered.
"Gereral Purpose Relay MK2P-I AC 220V Coil DPDT 8 Pin with Plug-in Terminal Socket PYF83A"
This might negate the need for the small wall wart, but I have not tried it. Though in the future if I need to replace the relay I may try this 220v relay instead.This might be a better option, but I have not tried it. If it works it would negate the need for the extra power supply and should in theory switch the power over instantly.
Those were my thoughts on the situation and I'm sure someone might find an even better solution. I am just a tinkerer and thought I would share my situation.
I love the experimentation that goes with these diesel heaters and often watch people trying out crazy ideas relating to them.
Anyway thanks for the videos and happy tinkering.
Great tip, Andy. I'm running my heater off the mains and although power cuts are extremely rare here, I'll probably upgrade 👍😃. Another question for you. Did you ever measure the benefits of recirculating the hot air from inside as opposed to drawing fresh "cold" air. I'm in Norway so that air could easily be -10.
great thanks, yes it has to make a difference of using warm air instead of cold, but difficult to know exactly how much difference.
cheers andy
@@andyfireblade andy and bernhand, i have my exhaust pipe and the inlet running out of the same area into a box and the exhaust heat warms up the inlet air but it is outside, best of both worlds, i have probed the air temp and it hovers at 40 degrees c...
@@stevenlarratt3638 good idea, thanks for sharing with us all
Hi, just wondering does that module allow the battery to charge aswell or do you use a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up?
No it doesn’t allow it to charge through the module, it’s just a switch
@@user-xk5nl4sb2z thank you
I am new to diesel heaters. Does the power supply charge the battery when the A/C power is on?
yes, cheers andy
is there a concern of over charging the battery?
@@andyfireblade
your psu puts out 12V right fully loaded battery 13.2 or more and it runs abit faster. my psu is set to 13.6 heater runs better speed cut off is 16v for 12V heater i think. still no old cast-iron radiator on your exhaust for more heat recovery. 😀
thanks andy
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@@andyfireblade yeah i have seen quire a few, why i mention cast iron radiator i also see the one with your setup litlle radiator but that radator is no good. those from the 60 70s on cast iron as i am using hitting 100+ on the bottom part 30-40+ on top in a non insulated 20foot container 5kw heater just keeping it frost free +5 as i am hopefully soon starting to insulate .
I wonder, when you take into account the cost of the electricity plus the cost of the fuel, how much if anything are you saving by using mains electricity to power your system.
If you are constantly drawing electricity it is a thought.
true, thanks for your comment
cheers andy
For an average setting of the heater, the power-drawn is typically about 30W. at 30p per kWh, which equates to about 21.6p per day.
@@nlo114 Not sure I would agree with it being 30 watts or his battery wouldn't keep going dead, that's a big battery and if it were only 30 watts that battery would probably last more than one day.
Also at 30 watts you could run it directly off a small solar panel, which I doubt you could.
Can you please link me to the recommended battery also and the setup u have ?
here are some links that might help you
cheers andy
car battery: amzn.to/3uM6Ode
Solar Panel Kit: amzn.to/48zyTlF
Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48sEbAb
Heaters: amzn.to/3HDNXDO
12v power supply: amzn.to/40iHO8J
Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/48XI4NY
New control panel: amzn.to/49gvOrC
Mother Board: amzn.to/49f6emD
Ducting: amzn.to/3CF7l0W
Diesel Heater ultra quiet fuel pump: amzn.to/42nOsLC
Diesel Heater Parts: amzn.to/3SGTP5H
Diesel Heater Extension Cable Wiring: amzn.to/49gb9DT
Battery Trickle Charger: amzn.to/3UllSsA
12v power supply car socket style: amzn.to/3OMvo4v
link to heater U.S. : s.vevor.com/bfP62S
@@andyfireblade Andy can you tell me the exact make and model of the battery the link won’t show me certain products because I’m located in the United States
@@eyewatchvq
this battery is for a car, a peugeot 207. the exact model is 12v l2 640a 60ah
these are the other links that you may need.
U.S.A. Links:
solar panel kit: amzn.to/4bYWwHq
Heaters: amzn.to/48SYbwc
Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48RBJUf
12v power supply: amzn.to/47XpuE0
Long flexy exhaust pipe: amzn.to/3SDGoTP
New control panel: amzn.to/48VVcD3
Mother Board: amzn.to/3SEXxfY
Ducting and joints : amzn.to/3UlMZn6
Diesel Heater ultra quiet fuel pump: amzn.to/4bjYYHZ
Diesel Heater Parts: amzn.to/48LFBG9
Diesel Heater Extension Cable Wiring: amzn.to/3u5LP4J
Battery Trickle Charger: amzn.to/3OknUoL
12v power supply car socket style: amzn.to/3vZdMf5
@@eyewatchvq amzn.to/438CMNh
just abit of advice these dont work on every machine well not mine they didnt tried one months ago also they are only 10amp rated and most cdh will draw over 12amps on start up
yes thats true, i didnt think it would work.
i am going to try it on another heater.
cheers andy
Link to Power Switcher Module: amzn.to/48sEbAb