Your courage is beyond me. This gives me some perspective to the early Mt Everest climbers doing similarly in ice, snow, and little oxygen. So very impressive.
Served as a Paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne, heights have never bothered me much. But something about this just sends a chill up my spine. Not sure if its the visual of having solid footing under you but a foot to the right and its a long drop or what. Even the times I was the first out the door on a jump I was never really bothered. This though....fuck
@@youtubehand This climber is way higher then 36FT. And It still gives me a chill. Still to this day wouldn't have a problem going out the door at 1250-800 AGL on a jump.
Probably just they are different scenarios really. When you jump out of a plane you know basically exactly what is going to happen and have a parachute and training to rely on and place trust in. With this though basically anything can happen even if you are experienced with it there are still many possibilities that could happen that could lead to your death that you never could have accounted for.
I spent most of my time climbing on limestone, and I'm not really used to granite. I'd be double testing every flake/rock before using it as a hold. Some of those in your video sounded pretty loose when you tapped them. Nice exposure on your climb.
The first moment he stepped forward that slab was upright and rooted into seemingly nothing ; put his weight against the upper portion and pulled towards himself; I'd just assume and likely poorly that nothing was holding that slab and it should of crumbled
Hey - bit of a newbie! Why do you extend all the draws? Is it to prevent the gear from walking and being pulled out when you climb higher? Or just to minimise rope drag? I'm from Australia and we don't have much big wall climbing - but we do have a lot of trad! - Trying to learn :)
Both are valid reasons to extend gear. In this case the placements are good and unlikely to walk but hard to see in the video this pitch follows a sickle shape curve and so the placements at the base would create an angle if not extended and cause rope drag. Additionally there are large blocks so extending puts the rope further from the blocks and less likely to get caught behind something and again cause drag.
It is fourth class until about 3:30..... lo and behold that is when he places his first piece. You don’t climb the nose if you are placing gear every five feet on scrambles.
This would be so easy and fun to do if the fear part didn’t exist. Getting down is always scarier. Imo (and the fact there’s no guarantee the hooks will hold lol.
Am I the only one wondering just how stable some of those rocks are on pitch 5??? you have a lot of faith grabbing those rocks that appear as though they are ready to slip right out with the next grab or foot hold.
They are more stable than they look. Each slab of rock goes quite far back and this route has been climbed many times so anything that could fall off long since has fallen off. That said, it still lingers as a fear in the back of the mind as I climb!
Can someone please explain the process to this type of climbing? Did he carry the weight of all that rope the entire climb? And the more anchor points he puts, doesn’t that mean way more friction he has to fight?
Yeah all you've said is correct. He carries all the weight of the rope and also the protection. There is more friction as he adds protection. Friction is a real problem, usually called "rope drag". As you could see he was extending the protection he placed with a sling and a carabiner. That is to lower the angles between protection points (and has many other advantages).
I have a fear of height and watch climbing vids by way of some cockeyed idea of "exposure therapy" making it better! I sit and watch these films with a fist sized knot in my tummy, but can't look away. Just me? Your skills and courage are most impressive!
Hi, an absolute non climber here. Can I ask how often the safety ropes are needed? I mean how often is there a slip or fall? I am sitting here drenched in sweat watching you. I am very prone to vertigo, on holiday I went to the viewing floor at the top of the Shard in london and had to sit down when looking out over the city 😂
How often is completely dependent on the route and the climber. On trad routes like this (ie placing your own protection as you climb), most people try not to fall at all if possible, normally climbing significantly easier routes than their technical ability. But everyone makes mistakes and the ropes protect against that.
Like Chris said, it completely depends. Top roping? People sit on that rope all day long. Sport climbing? You can take big falls left and right (assuming the route is safe to fall on. no ledges or protrusions for you to smack into). On trad climbing, which is what they're doing here, you typically try to not fall at all, as the pieces you are falling on are sketchier than bolts in the rocks. Will they hold you? Most likely assuming you put them in well. But is there a chance they will blow and you'll get hurt. Yes absolutely. So usually trad you climb well under your sport grade, to minimize your chances of falling.
I have nightmares where I am suddenly stuck high up on a ladder or mountain side. In the dreams I feel like I’m swaying and can’t move, lest I fall and plummet to the earth.
At the beginning, before you placed your first protection... What would happen if you fell? Would you also pull your belayer into the valley? I didn't see the initial setup.
This is off of sickle ledge on the nose route of el cap. A fall would be a rather terrifying but probably totally clean fall until the rope goes tight against the anchor. In this case the anchor is several 5/8 or 1/2 inch bolts on this very popular route.
@@GreenGloop ah ok, so there was an initial anchor, I see. I haven't multi pitched yet so I wasn't sure. I thought maybe you'd just fall down and yank your belayer to his death too 😅
Not a dumb question at all. If the rope is under tension (fall) and slides along a sharp edge it is possible (though rare) that it could be cut. A fall in this case wouldn’t pull the rope over this edge and it’s why I add an extension to keep the rope away from the edge.
The climber below(second)stops belaying the leader( the guy filming) once that the leader anchors the rope to those rings and communicates that fact to the second, then tightens the rope on the second and after a discussion, the second removes the lower anchor and climbs up to the leader collecting all the hardware and runners as he/she climbs up to join the leader who is pulling in the rope as if he were reeling in a fish(probably not that tight)`````````
The second belaying the rope can usually get a good idea of how the leader is doing just through the tensions on the rope. It's handy if the leader climbs out of sight. And, to answer your original question, the second climbs up removing kit as he goes, while the leader belays him. The process involves swearing about: "how did you fffiinng get that wedge in here".
I know nothing about climbing, but you put your first anchor-thing in at like 3:33. At that point you're already high up enough that falling would probably be like... a very bad time. So why even bother with dragging the rope and all the equipment, wouldn't it be safer to just climb without? I get that the rope isn't there to prevent injuries, it's there to prevent death, but at the point where you attach the anchor, it wasn't probably even doing that?
you can briefly see a couple bolts around the 0:50 mark where the belayer is anchored. often the climber will run the lead rope through one as well, so that a fall before placing the first piece of gear doesnt end up with the climber pulling straight down off the belayer's harness.
Find a place you can clip in and then call emergency services. Not much else you can do, and I don't think many climbers have heart conditions like that
people often drill holes into the rock to place permanent steel bolts (called sport climbing), would be sketchy leaving gear like that in because of weather and whatnot. People also enjoy the fun of placing your own gear, it's called Traditional Climbing.
I was cheering whenever he decided to place a friend or a nut or whatever. It would be awesome if you would leave some notes on your placement choices.
The beginning of the pitch is lower angle than it looks so I skip placing pieces since it will be very unlikely that I would fall. Additionally any pieces here will add drag to the rope. The first piece I put in is where the climbing gets a little difficult and I want to make sure it’s super bomber. After that I’m placing pieces where the rock is solid and where I feel I may fall. I extend pieces whenever I can to keep the rope away from the blocks
@@quetzalsanchez683 honestly, she probably could or did, but the arrogance was pure clown shoes...like, I would like to think that if you can free solo 5.9 and above then maybe you would be be at a state of mind above trolling the mediocre in a mentally tough sport/field.
Your courage is beyond me. This gives me some perspective to the early Mt Everest climbers doing similarly in ice, snow, and little oxygen. So very impressive.
Mt everest is more of a hike
@@elliot5008 exactly
Getting a bit freaked on the last piece of pro! You really ran it out... great exposure there, what a rush that must have been!
You went up that, like i would walk to the corner store.
Crazy skilled brother, nice climb.
They should really think about moving the corner store somewhere lower.
1:40 THIS! Is why we make sure to test hand holds before we remove our other points of contact! Well done.
Served as a Paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne, heights have never bothered me much. But something about this just sends a chill up my spine. Not sure if its the visual of having solid footing under you but a foot to the right and its a long drop or what. Even the times I was the first out the door on a jump I was never really bothered. This though....fuck
You just know that dropping through free air is safer than having rock ledges sticking out into you flight path :)
I thought you should know better. People were most afraid at the height around 36 feet. Climbing higher drminishing the fear level.
@@youtubehand This climber is way higher then 36FT. And It still gives me a chill. Still to this day wouldn't have a problem going out the door at 1250-800 AGL on a jump.
Probably just they are different scenarios really.
When you jump out of a plane you know basically exactly what is going to happen and have a parachute and training to rely on and place trust in.
With this though basically anything can happen even if you are experienced with it there are still many possibilities that could happen that could lead to your death that you never could have accounted for.
When I see it like this I realise just how insane Alex Honnald is.
Honnold
@@Marauder1981 noted herr gasgabber
this is great pitch, 5.9, but Honnold climb was much harder, up to 5.13 in some places
1:40 my soul would leave my body
I might be too afraid of this, but how can you trust that the rock won't break when you pull yourself on such shady edges? As you did at 13:00.
I don't understand why I'm even watching this. It gives me serious anxiety, my hands and feet are now squirting rivers of sweat.
yes.
We did this pitch at night. Probably seemed casual becasue we couldn't see too much ;)
what 😳?!
i dont care
Proof?😮
That seems iffy
You did the fifth pitch at night? Bullshit.
I spent most of my time climbing on limestone, and I'm not really used to granite. I'd be double testing every flake/rock before using it as a hold. Some of those in your video sounded pretty loose when you tapped them. Nice exposure on your climb.
The first moment he stepped forward that slab was upright and rooted into seemingly nothing ; put his weight against the upper portion and pulled towards himself; I'd just assume and likely poorly that nothing was holding that slab and it should of crumbled
Hey - bit of a newbie!
Why do you extend all the draws? Is it to prevent the gear from walking and being pulled out when you climb higher? Or just to minimise rope drag? I'm from Australia and we don't have much big wall climbing - but we do have a lot of trad! - Trying to learn :)
Both are valid reasons to extend gear. In this case the placements are good and unlikely to walk but hard to see in the video this pitch follows a sickle shape curve and so the placements at the base would create an angle if not extended and cause rope drag. Additionally there are large blocks so extending puts the rope further from the blocks and less likely to get caught behind something and again cause drag.
@@GreenGloop Makes a lot more sense, thank you!!
Wow well done - but I would have placed like at least twice the gear as you! You ran it out a lot between placements!
This lack of gear gives me anxiety. You can fall on easy stuff too, and it hurst just as bad.
I wouldn't have been happy as the belayer... a factor two fall from that sort of distance might have seen you both on the floor.
I don't get why you would carry all that gear and not protect yourself?
Just the first 20m or so, after that he places plenty of protection.
@@paulgaras2606 and that first 20 metres could kill you or severely hurt you
It is fourth class until about 3:30..... lo and behold that is when he places his first piece. You don’t climb the nose if you are placing gear every five feet on scrambles.
Good send. ❤
This would be so easy and fun to do if the fear part didn’t exist. Getting down is always scarier. Imo (and the fact there’s no guarantee the hooks will hold lol.
Am I the only one wondering just how stable some of those rocks are on pitch 5??? you have a lot of faith grabbing those rocks that appear as though they are ready to slip right out with the next grab or foot hold.
They are more stable than they look. Each slab of rock goes quite far back and this route has been climbed many times so anything that could fall off long since has fallen off.
That said, it still lingers as a fear in the back of the mind as I climb!
@@GreenGloop thank you for the explanation 🙏 and be safe
Anyone else feel tingly legs watching this
That is some unsteady rock there.
This looks insanely fun to climb
Can someone please explain the process to this type of climbing? Did he carry the weight of all that rope the entire climb? And the more anchor points he puts, doesn’t that mean way more friction he has to fight?
That's why the belayer can give or take rope.
Yeah all you've said is correct. He carries all the weight of the rope and also the protection. There is more friction as he adds protection. Friction is a real problem, usually called "rope drag". As you could see he was extending the protection he placed with a sling and a carabiner. That is to lower the angles between protection points (and has many other advantages).
@ this was helpful, thank you!
perfect video ! Thank you for this !
Had to grab the chalk bag just watching this..
I have a fear of height and watch climbing vids by way of some cockeyed idea of "exposure therapy" making it better! I sit and watch these films with a fist sized knot in my tummy, but can't look away. Just me?
Your skills and courage are most impressive!
very cool climb, just raw photage. im a decent climber but I dont know all the types of climbing. what is the name of this one?
Never did the Nose but my god that looks like some weird loose rock! Everything I did there was beautiful and solid.
Hi, an absolute non climber here. Can I ask how often the safety ropes are needed? I mean how often is there a slip or fall? I am sitting here drenched in sweat watching you. I am very prone to vertigo, on holiday I went to the viewing floor at the top of the Shard in london and had to sit down when looking out over the city 😂
How often is completely dependent on the route and the climber. On trad routes like this (ie placing your own protection as you climb), most people try not to fall at all if possible, normally climbing significantly easier routes than their technical ability. But everyone makes mistakes and the ropes protect against that.
Like Chris said, it completely depends. Top roping? People sit on that rope all day long. Sport climbing? You can take big falls left and right (assuming the route is safe to fall on. no ledges or protrusions for you to smack into). On trad climbing, which is what they're doing here, you typically try to not fall at all, as the pieces you are falling on are sketchier than bolts in the rocks. Will they hold you? Most likely assuming you put them in well. But is there a chance they will blow and you'll get hurt. Yes absolutely. So usually trad you climb well under your sport grade, to minimize your chances of falling.
@@cattochi_ what if you fall and you can't reach a rock like you get stuck and you're just hanging there?
@@armwrestlinginthe6ix In that case your belayer will lower you down to a point where you can get back on the rock, or you can ascend back up the rope
I roped myself to the bed so I could safely watch this video.
I have nightmares where I am suddenly stuck high up on a ladder or mountain side. In the dreams I feel like I’m swaying and can’t move, lest I fall and plummet to the earth.
Dreams about falling from a high place usually means that you're lonely
@@stellviahohenheim damn dude. You really have to execute me like that! 🤣🤣.
Your not wrong though
For me, that first pitch would have been dotted with protection.
BUT… That first piece seemed bomb-proof.
Nice! Great upload.
Do I hear your heartbeat in this video or is it mine?
At the beginning, before you placed your first protection... What would happen if you fell? Would you also pull your belayer into the valley? I didn't see the initial setup.
This is off of sickle ledge on the nose route of el cap. A fall would be a rather terrifying but probably totally clean fall until the rope goes tight against the anchor. In this case the anchor is several 5/8 or 1/2 inch bolts on this very popular route.
@@GreenGloop ah ok, so there was an initial anchor, I see. I haven't multi pitched yet so I wasn't sure. I thought maybe you'd just fall down and yank your belayer to his death too 😅
@11:55 wouldn't the rock cut the rope as people slips off?
(sorry for the dumb question from non-climber)
Not a dumb question at all. If the rope is under tension (fall) and slides along a sharp edge it is possible (though rare) that it could be cut. A fall in this case wouldn’t pull the rope over this edge and it’s why I add an extension to keep the rope away from the edge.
@@GreenGloop thank you so much, this is a great clip.
Lol that right hand hold at 2:55 she's ready to go
I'll climb with anchors but I don't think I could ever trust those temporary ones--or have faith that the lead guy isn't going to dislodge a 5lb rock.
can't wait to do this :thumbsup:
dude put some damn protection at the beginning of the pitches, reduce the fall factor, do the scary runs at the end
Like the hand jams around 14:00ish...never felt comfortable with them if smearing.
ever do a trust fall to test out your anchors?
Granite is so brittle. Every time I see someone climbing these my booty clenches thinking about those huge slabs of rock breaking off.
That stone looks so sketchy and could break off wow that scared the crap out of me on my couch wow guy’s!!
I’m leaning to the left just sitting here watching…..
Only a mountaineer or a rock climber can understand the real value of those rock cracks.
And only some people understand the real value of crack rocks.
@@Dontbustthecrust And only some people understand the real value of keeping your mouth shut.
@@truthoverlies6434 And only some people understand the real value of... wait what?
@@truthoverlies6434 🤣😉 you drunk bro?
@@Dontbustthecrust yo mister white
Do you have to climb down and remove all the rope and hardware?
The climber below(second)stops belaying the leader( the guy filming) once that the leader anchors the rope to those rings and communicates that fact to the second, then tightens the rope on the second and after a discussion, the second removes the lower anchor and climbs up to the leader collecting all the hardware and runners as he/she climbs up to join the leader who is pulling in the rope as if he were reeling in a fish(probably not that tight)`````````
The second belaying the rope can usually get a good idea of how the leader is doing just through the tensions on the rope. It's handy if the leader climbs out of sight. And, to answer your original question, the second climbs up removing kit as he goes, while the leader belays him. The process involves swearing about: "how did you fffiinng get that wedge in here".
So much if they face appears unstable, wow
So El Cap is a choss pile?
It wouldn't take but one grain of sand between the rocks that could end everything with a slide. Just crazy. ⛰️🧗🏻♂️
Except that sand is aid. Therefore, catapulting the climber through the crux of the route and onto your moms proj.
I know nothing about climbing, but you put your first anchor-thing in at like 3:33. At that point you're already high up enough that falling would probably be like... a very bad time. So why even bother with dragging the rope and all the equipment, wouldn't it be safer to just climb without? I get that the rope isn't there to prevent injuries, it's there to prevent death, but at the point where you attach the anchor, it wasn't probably even doing that?
you can briefly see a couple bolts around the 0:50 mark where the belayer is anchored. often the climber will run the lead rope through one as well, so that a fall before placing the first piece of gear doesnt end up with the climber pulling straight down off the belayer's harness.
Wow
1:41 OOOF
Big respect guys
What do you do if the person you're climbing with has a heart attack?
Find a place you can clip in and then call emergency services. Not much else you can do, and I don't think many climbers have heart conditions like that
you carry a lot of gear for running things out how you do.
I’d wear a parachute doing this .
Where is this at?
Whats the rope for put some shit in the wall wtf. man.
what happens if he falls?
Wouldn’t it be simpler to leave gear in place that all future climbers can use instead of everyone just redoing it every single climb?
people often drill holes into the rock to place permanent steel bolts (called sport climbing), would be sketchy leaving gear like that in because of weather and whatnot. People also enjoy the fun of placing your own gear, it's called Traditional Climbing.
Sing a song while ta up there
That is a beautiful pitch, but where is this?
I believe it's El Capitan
I was cheering whenever he decided to place a friend or a nut or whatever. It would be awesome if you would leave some notes on your placement choices.
The beginning of the pitch is lower angle than it looks so I skip placing pieces since it will be very unlikely that I would fall. Additionally any pieces here will add drag to the rope. The first piece I put in is where the climbing gets a little difficult and I want to make sure it’s super bomber. After that I’m placing pieces where the rock is solid and where I feel I may fall. I extend pieces whenever I can to keep the rope away from the blocks
@@GreenGloop how long is the rope you use?
corn hole pucker factor 11
i am SO glad i don't do that
Great video! What a treat to be in such a beautiful place :D You could try breathing more consciously, it might make you feel calmer.
the first 5 mins looks easy and beginner friendly but after that, NOPE
I did that pitch upside down naked and barefoot without chalk. Piece of cake without frosting.
Your brave and this is cool. Are u ever disappointed you were never in combat?
Bro....put in some pro. Running out the first piece so long you start making your belayer scared for his own life.
I’m a straight bisexual with nouns inches
nope
those rocks look so not trustable
I did this without equipment and a water bottle in my waistband
🤡
@@krish3101 😎
@@quetzalsanchez683 honestly, she probably could or did, but the arrogance was pure clown shoes...like, I would like to think that if you can free solo 5.9 and above then maybe you would be be at a state of mind above trolling the mediocre in a mentally tough sport/field.
@@krish3101 i can climb more mountains than a billy goat free fro the BURDEN OF EQUIPMENT pure raw skill.
@@quetzalsanchez683 great bro.
This is not a vertical climb, I believe it’s a horizontal climb you are being decieved,
Helmet cams suck, the constant head bobbing is really distracting
What? should he bring a tripod next time?
Seriously how do u get down
HOW DO U GET DOWN
Nope nope nope hell no💩😳