Epic Battles ACW Union Painting Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2024
- #epicbattlesacw #warlordgamesepicbattles #warlordgamesblackpowder #paintingwarlord #paintingwarlordgames #americancivilwar #paintmoreminis #paintingtutorial
Epic Battles ACW
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Hiya Stuart.. really enjoying these ACW tutorials. I do like the GW ones too... these just add a bit of variation, much as the diomaras / scenery pieces do.
Thank you Julian. Over the last couple of years I’ve explored quite a range of things on the channel, it’s fun to reflect my interests across a range of games and periods. I’m glad you like the variety, it’s not always the ‘TH-cam smart’ thing to do, as more focused content leads to more growth, but I’ll always maintain a big mix of the channel I think 🙂.
A really useful tutorial. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you 😊
Effective and very nicely done...impressive beards!
Thank you
Fantastic technique! You make it look effortless, though I surmise that's not the case. I'll give your method a shot. Thanks for a great tutorial!
Thank you, let me know how you get on.
Nice tutorial . This bunch of Nordistes looks great . Top Nocht work . A different size that my work ! Glad to discover your channel and subscribed it .
Thank you
some very handy colour guide for those Napoleonics...
Thank you, I’m hoping I can use similar techniques on the Napoleonics.
...OH, just one additional thing. Your Contrast color mixing for the Union coats is absolutely brilliant because Union coats were actually more of a medium blue than a really dark, navy blue. The government factories would dye the coats and trousers using the same exact indigo blue dye, but they would simply dilute it when dying the trousers to make them the lighter blue color. When Union coats began to fade from being worn in the sun, they got so light they took on a greenish/bluish/grayish color.
Well that’s a happy accident as Bob Ross would say 😂, something else I didn’t know though, so thank you. I probably spend more time reading and watching stuff on battles and campaigns, so I might have to delve into the uniform side a little more, thank you.
@@MiniatureRealms Oh yeah, I showed your video to a friend of mine and he was super excited about the shade of blue you achieved. He wants to paint up a starter set now seeing what you've done with them. We're both complete Civil War fantatics, we get excited when we see a wargamer get the right shade of blue for the Union army! My wife just shakes her head, lol.
😂 My wife is the same, very supportive of my hobby, but also doesn’t understand half of what I’m going on about.
This technique is absolutely the way to go with these guys!
Just a few friendly historical bits of reference. I was a Civil War reenactor for about 25 years and I also own quite a bit of Civil War original military antiques.
The main problem historically that these models have is their inconsistency of gear. Some models appear to have canteens but not others. Soldiers would always have canteens because you need water! Not all models have haversacks, which they would all have because it was what they carried their food in. Not all models have cartridge boxes which makes no sense because you have to have cartridges in order to fire your musket! The blanket rolls are correct but Warlord put a lot of them over the wrong shoulder. They would usually put it over their left shoulder resting on their right hip. This was because if you did on the other shoulder you could not hold your musket at "shoulder arms" or "right shoulder shift" because the blanket roll would get in the way.
The blanket rolls themselves are actually quite correct. Many, many Union soldiers opted to leave their knapsack (packpack) in a rear area and just take the blanket and a change of clothing or half a tent rolled inside it. Many more threw away their knapsacks entirely and just used the roll.
Of course, in this scale none of this is a deal breaker, it all just tends to blend in at the end of day. These models still look very good at portraying the massed ranks of Civil War armies.
Some color guides if you are interested:
If you're looking straight at the stand of Union models, the strap crossing over the left shoulder down to the right hip would be black, the cartridge box was black leather and the strap was black leather (the waist belt was also black leather, and the belt buckle was brass). The cartridge box strap had a round eagle plate in the center of the chest which was also brass. The strap and sling crossing over the right shoulder and going down to the left hip would be a wider black strap for the haversack, which was painted canvas, and the canteen sling which would be white, it was a cotton or linen strap. Some canteens were issued with leather straps which were usually brownish red leather. The canteen was slung over the haversack so you would want to paint the wider black strap first and then the thinner white strap over it. So it would be pretty accurate to paint most of the canteen slings in white or off-white and a few here and there in reddish brown.
The vast majority of Union issue blankets were brownish gray or gray. Most Union issue canteens were actually covered in tan or brownish tan cloth.
The guy you really want to use as reference for painting is Don Troiani. He is the premier military artist in the United States and is considered one of the most accurate painters of Civil War scenes that is out there.
Here's a painting he did of a typical Union soldier. This is 100% spot on as to all the colors I was talking about:
i.pinimg.com/originals/d6/77/f0/d677f0da13dc45085c76bc02642b3dd2.jpg
Mike this is all awesome info, thank you. I totally agree that these models are all over the place, but kind of get away with it at this scale for an overall look - definitely make better Confederate troops. I think I’m going to have to pick up a couple of Don Trioni books, I love his art style.
Really interesting to hear you did reenactment, it’s something that’s always interested me, but time with a young family means it’s pretty much a non starter - I’d love to hear more about your collection, do you have info on it posted anywhere? I’m afraid I’ve only got a cheap replica 1853 Enfield and a couple of cheap Kepis on the shelf.
@@MiniatureRealms Most welcome, I always love talking history and ever since the Epic scale has come out I've been really excited to see it all become a reality! Yeah, my reenacting days are pretty much over actually. My most active years were the early 90s into the early 2000s. Being 50 years old now, I got it mostly out of my system and now am content to do the wargaming side of it. I totally understand about having a family. Reenacting requires a lot of logistical commitment having to be away for entire weekends or more, which becomes very difficult to coordinate when you have kids and a home to take care of!
Your channel really caught my eye because you were committed to covering the Epic scale Civil War and it's really fun to be able to see your progress, hear your insights and then use your excellent techniques to paint up my own starter box! The combination of historical wargaming plus the fact you do Middle Earth wargaming closed the deal for me, I had to subscribe to both your channels and follow along.
Unfortunately I don't have any of the Civil War collection posted online anywhere. It's mostly at my father's house, some on display, some boxed up. It consists mostly of muskets, carbines, cartridge boxes, canteens, etc. We do have one original Union knapsack and one federal issue blouse although it's a post-war 1870's infantry blouse and not actually Civil War, but similar in many ways. My dad is in his late 70s now and so it's most likely going to stay where it is until I have a chance to actually catalogue it all try to coordinate some sort of display. The only Civil War stuff I've got here at my house is my book and game collection, as well as my reenacting uniform and gear.
That's really cool you have a replica Enfield, they are super fun for display even if it happens to not be totally accurate!
Yeah, Don Troiani's books are an absolute treasure. He lives in Southbury, CT which is just the next town over from me. He's got one of the biggest Civil War collections in the world. He owns one of the only surviving green wool Berdan Sharpshooter frock coats from the war, and God knows how many other original uniforms he has but it has to be dozens along with hundreds of original caps and hats, etc. The dude even has original 12 lb. Napoleon cannon with the original carriages! Insane. I met him a couple times, once at Gettysburg, once at a lecture in CT. He puts an epic level of detail and care into his paintings, he's to Civil War painting what Tolkien was for fantasy fiction. Nobody else really comes close to the depth of his work.
That collection sounds amazing, I might pick up the odd replica bit here and there, but also no room to display it all. I’ll do doubt add a couple of Napoleonic bits as it’s my ‘other historical love’ along with ACW (at least in terms of warfare anyway). I’m 43, so sadly by the time my boys are old enough that I can sneak off on weekends (they’re 6&2), it will be too late as well - will have to stick to just the wargaming as well.
Thank you for the kind words about the channel, I’m having loads of fun with it (and my other one.podcast). There will be loads of ACW content to come, along with plenty of Lotr, definitely some Napoleonics and undoubtedly some Bolt Action and other periods in the future - I want to do it all at once, but I won’t finish anything if I do that. Thank you for continuing to watch.
@@MiniatureRealms Indeed. Our house is fairly spacious overall but has pretty small rooms so 90% of the collection at my dad's house will sadly probably have to be mostly stored away or sold. I don't have any kids but just the logistics of keeping a house going and supporting my wife with cooking, cleaning, yard work, etc. makes full-time reenacting not practical any more. Hats off to you for being able to do your hobbies and do commission painting and still juggle all the responsibilities of being a father, I can't even imagine! Looking forward to your upcoming ACW and LOTR content, and my apologies for the lengths of my comments! Once my brain gets going on a topic I'm immersed in I tend to carry on and on, lol.
Please don’t apologise, I love to chat hobby, and thank you for watching and commenting.
great tutorial, do you have a paint list?
Thank you. Here’s the list from my notes, save scribbling it down as it appears on screen:
Black Vallejo prime
Grey Vallejo prime (zenithal)
Dry brush white
Trousers Contrast Talassar Blue (3/4 mix with water).
Jackets Contrast Talassar Blue/Leviadon/black Templar/water 30/30/30/10 mix.
Highlights: Jacket - Scale 75 Caspian Blue, Trousers - Scalecolour Fantasy Games - Amarth Blue & Joryldin Turquoisi
I am coming to hate you as you go through this process and produce such lovely finished figures, all jealousy you might guess.
I was interested on your take on how long you are taking for each complete base on average? Just the basic starter is 120 bases , if you do not start chopping and adding from other ranges for even more, so getting the whole lot ready on table is a big undertaking.
I have been cutting corners and because I want stuff on table have decided to get the basics done - cheating with washes - and go back for the detailing later. So far I have 12 regiments a side, supported by 5 guns, plus generals /staff, which is enough for the early battles in west virginia and out west , albeit I need to press on with cavalry for a proposed Elkhorn Tavern campaign.
Thank you 😊
I think it’s taking around an hour to do a full base (not in the priming or basing time), but it’s hard to say definitely as I’m batch painting.
For models this scale what you’re describing is definitely not ‘cheating’, nor for any scale for that matter. You’ve also got loads painted, where I’m only really at 3 regiments per side now. I need to get a move on 😂
What quick tips can you share about zenithal process with an airbrush that you used with these and the confederates? For example, do you hold each stand in your hand and rotate the figure while straying or mount a bunch of stands on a surface and spray them en masse moving the airbrush around etc?
You could do it either way really, I’d say it’s mostly about what comfortable and what works best for you. I tend to hold the miniature in hand for a bit more control.
great guides! just got the starter for my b-day. One big guestion is how do people store the minis once painted?
Thank you 😊. Mine are just in my display cabinets, but I’ve seen quite a few people store them in ‘Really Useful Boxes’, either the thin 9ltr ones or the larger ones with lots of insert trays.
@@MiniatureRealms Magnetized my bases and then put them in a metal filing cabinet from ikea.
That’s a good idea.
Great as usual and very informative.
Two quick questions;
1) I used the same contrast paint on the faces but the result looks rather dull and sunburnt. Any suggestions how to add a bit of punch?
2) It’s hard to tell from the video how your tunic mix is different than out the bottle Contrast Ultramarine. What didn’t you like about the latter that prompted a mix?
Paul
Hi Paul, thank you and thanks for watching.
I’ve found if the faces look dull (happens to me more when then faces don’t have much white pre-highlight on), that a quick highlight with a light flesh tone helps. That can be fiddly, so if you’re finding it a lot, just a making sure the faces are painted in white before you start helps.
I think I found the Contrast Ultramarine wasn’t rich enough, so the mix I used tended to work in one coat which is what I was after.
@@MiniatureRealms Thanks for the tips and I realize in my haste to speed things up I had omitted the white drybrush stage. I'm using the ACW painting project as a vehicle to not only get ACW stands but also attempt to up my painting skills. Not as much progress on finished goods as I'd like but I have spent a lot of time experimenting and learning.
I finally downloaded the WI article you mentioned and that helps to stimulate ideas on what to try and vary.
Maybe you have already done this but it would be great to see your entire ACW army captured in a few snaps to see the extent etc.
It’s certainly something I have planned, but I’ve got loads of half finished stuff I’d like to get done before I do that, but it will definitely happen.
How do you paint those flags so clean?!?
The flags are paper ones that come with the set, I’ve just glued them on and added a little paint around the edge to hide any white paper.
@@MiniatureRealms thanks for the quick response. That makes me feel better, absolutely no way I could paint that.
I know scary 😅
You mention the figure holder that you are using to paint the stand of figs. Can you give details on the product name, manufacturer, price, and where to purchase please?
It’s from Redgrass Games, think they just call it their Ergonomic Painting Handle. I think the RRP is £12.99, it was £11.79 from my FLGS Incomgaming.co.uk
How big are this bases?
60x20mm
Fantastic tutorial! Been waiting to report to you about this! So I painted up my first sprue using the airbrush to prime the whole thing in dark blue primer spray. I discovered that this was problematic, and that your technique is actually faster although at first it would seem that my technique would have been faster.
The problem with spray priming all the models in dark blue is the same problem you run into when someone primes a model in black. You're canceling out all opportunities to use transparencies like the Citadel Contrasts or any other kind of wash like Army Painter, etc.. None of the Contrasts will show up properly over dark blue so you are confined to having to use actual acrylic paints to base coat everything else on the model. This slows everything down CONSIDERABLY. I was so damn miserable painting the first sprue of ten stands that by the end I realized I had to switch over to your method. There's no way psychologically I am going to be able to get through 30 sprues of these tiny guys, it just wasn't any fun at all.
By contrast, (no pun intended! lol) your method ends up being both faster and more enjoyable. The importance of being able to have the transparencies be your actual base coat colors is huge because you're getting the base coat and shading on the coats and trousers all in one pass! There's really no need to do anything else to them. With my method, you can't shade the dark blue because it's starting off too dark. All you can do is dry brush highlights, but drybrushing at this scale is problematic because it's so hard not to get the dry brush color on other details. The only way around that whole problem is if you decide to just dry brush the ENTIRE model with like a tan or off-white to achieve a universal highlight. I tried that and the models ended up looking very muddled and hazy, which is exactly what you don't want with tiny scale soldiers.
Your method is faster, makes the models "pop" visually at tabletop height, and using the Contrasts is far more enjoyable and satisfying than using traditional paints!
Thank you Mike, and for the details on your experience too, what you have mentioned was my fear as well. I think I would have worked on the blue to completion (shade dark blue, highlight mid blue, both with the airbrush, and then added a further highlight after with the hairy brush), only then to reprimed the rest of the miniature light grey by hand before using contrast. Good to know I picked the correct method.
@@MiniatureRealms Indeed! I tried to paint more of my first Union sprue and it's just becoming clearer and clearer that the dark blue primer isn't going to work. They just don't look right. I can't bring out the contrast of any of the belts or equipment and as I said in my other comments I can't shade the coats. It has to be done starting out with a lighter primer and then using transparencies over it. My god, the more I see it your tuorial sprue just looks so damn good. I should have listened to my instincts and just primed them all in like GW Wraithbone or light gray or something. I think I might go back and respray them all and just start fresh!
Maybe strip them and start again (I’d worry about the detail loss on such a small miniature), or just have the ones you’ve painted already looking slightly different, I’m sure the variety would look quite nice once they’re all based the same.
Your trying to read the name too hard!! It is Joy riding turquoise!! Bought and used the some of the Warpaint 2mm tuffs.
😂 I’m sure I’ll butcher a few more paint name pronunciations before long. I’ve just had a restock of the tufts, I’m using loads on this project.