MT07 Throttle Body Synchronizing | All Years
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ธ.ค. 2024
- In today's video, I show you how to sync your carb bodies on your fz/mt07. This process is crucial to a good running bike. They often come from the factory needing to be adjusted. This video will show you how to do it.
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Disclaimer:
B-rad The Builder is not a certified mechanic, thus under no circumstances will B-rad The Builder be held liable or responsible for errors or omissions in any content produced by the creator nor for damages resulting from information communicated in B-rad The Builder’s videos. B-rad The Builder’s content is strictly for informational purposes only. Use it at your own risk.
Great guide man. Sometimes it's easier to just watch a video compared to reading the service manual, especially when the manual calls for a specific vacuum synchronizer
This video came at the perfect time! I was just looking to do this for my '21
Awesome! I’m glad I could help
@@BradTheBuilderChannel bonjour
Excellente vidéo, très explicite,
Le voyant moteur s allumé car je pense que la vis de gauche est la référence de l injecteur, donc en utilisant celle de droite ecu ne le prendra pas en considération.
C est juste de la théorie,
@@christiandelannoy9991 bonjour, vous devez utiliser les deux prises pour équilibrer les corps de papillon, donc peu importe ce que vous devez retirer cette ligne de vide pour ce faire. Le voyant de vérification du moteur est normal pour cette procédure et n'est pas préoccupant. merci pour le commentaire et j'apprécie les belles paroles.
@@BradTheBuilderChannel Merci pour la réponse, donc pour le reglage parfait il faut ce concentrer sur le ralenti pour connaître la bonne valeur.
@@christiandelannoy9991 Les aiguilles de la jauge seront légèrement décalées lorsque les corps de papillon sont déséquilibrés. La vis sur l'une ou l'autre des prises en fonction de celle qui est désactivée corrigera l'aiguille afin que les deux soient alignées. Vous ajustez la quantité d'air entrant dans le moteur pour créer une compression équilibrée entre les deux cylindres. Il n'est pas directement lié au ralenti bien qu'il soit affecté par la dépression.
Now this is how a good informative video is made 👍👍
Great video!!!
You planning to upgrade the forks? I bought the YSS fork upgrade kit. I am finding conflicting info. Some say to drill the damper rods, others say that is not needed. Waiting for the upgrade kit to arrive.
No plans to do any front end mods yet but that’s not to say it won’t happen in the future. Let me know how it goes
Hello!! Does changing the air filter into k&n ones affects the throttle body sync? Or change it first then do the syncing?? Thanks
Change it first than do syncing to be safe.
Hello brother I loved the video and and very detailed explanation. I just want to ask first you used the T connection for only the right cylinder to calibrate the needles, then you disconnect the T and hook each cable to each cylinder, and recalibrate? Also does the right cable go in the vaccum line?
Also is there a screw on each side or only on the right side?
So you connect one of the cylinders doesn’t matter which one to a t connector that splits into two gauges. You use this to sync the gauges. Then you hook each to its own cylinder. There is a screw on each side that can be adjusted.
I would think that There has to be a proper vacuum pressure reading to maintain, if you only synch the two cylinders to match each other they could be out of spec. if one continues to fall and the other is adjusted to match that one eventually you will have no vacuum.
There is a proper vacuum pressure but it’s not near as important as each cylinder matching each other. When vacuum drops so does the idle. You can hear the difference. I can swing back with the proper pressure and let you know what it is. If you continue to adjust down the pressure will be too low for it to run properly. If there is no vacuum your engine isn’t running. Here is another good video on the throttle body sync and he is a certified motorcycle mechanic. He also states that the reading doesn’t matter as much as it being synced. It’s a good video th-cam.com/video/ARTuvn7Vf-s/w-d-xo.html . Hope this helps! Peace
How did you manage to disconnect and connect the hose on the right side? And how can you get to the right adjustment screw with the screw driver? Today I tried all possible ways and I didn't succeed... there is simply too little space :(
It is a difficult process and takes patience. The space your working in is tight. Use the small flat head screw driver to help you remove the hoses on either side of the throttle body. There is enough room to get to the screws through the top but it has to be in the exact right spot. I wish I could help out but don’t let the struggle stop you.
@@BradTheBuilderChannel ok, thanks!
I will be doing this to my bike soon. Is there a cylinder on the MT07 that will be the baseline? If the are off, which one do I adjust? I've seem other videos and it seems like sometimes there is one carb/throttle body that is fix, and you synchronize the other ones to that one.
No there is no set baseline but people often balance with a single hose with fluid connecting the two throttle bodies. The idle of the bike is directly affected by the level of sync. It’s a matter of seeing which is up and down and adjust one up and one down to become level. You need to use your ears and you will clearly hear the difference how well the two cylinders are firing. I used the right cylinder to balance the gauges but you could use either. Both cylinders use the same compression ratio and need to be the same. Internal wear of the throttle body butterfly and valve sealing issues will eventually cause your throttle bodies to become unsynced again this is why it’s good to check I would say every 5000 miles or so or when changing major parts related to the engine. If you adjust the vacuum too low you cut off the air and the bike will shut down. Too high will cause a high idle. When syncing them the adjustment of the screw will be very very minimal.
2 years late but for anyone in the future- From page 3-9 on the service manual: "With *throttle body #1 as standard* (left side of the bike), adjust throttle body #2..." It then goes on to say "If the throttle body synchronization can not be adjusted using the bypass air screw, clean or replace the throttle bodies. The difference in vacuum pressure between the throttle bodies should not exceed 1.33 kPa (10 mmHg)." The manual also suggests using a T fitting on the right throttle body so you can still have the sensor hose connected during the test, eliminating the CEL issue
Surprise! There’s a 3rd adjuster. Also, on the FZ/MTs, there’s one out of the three adjusters that’s painted white which is synced to the ECU, which should NOT be adjusted, but rather used as the setting for your other two adjusters.
I have a 21 mt-07 with about 8,400k on the bike. Have not done a throttle body sync yet. For about 7k mile i have the pc5, akrapovic exhaust and DNA fitler with stage 2 top. Very recently after riding for a while the bike begins to stutter above 9200rpm. If i rev the motor to redline in neutral then run it the problem goes away for a few runs. Wondering if this could be a throttle body syn issue? I changed the plugs tonight and the stutter is still present almost feels like hitting rev limiter
It wouldn't be a bad idea to do a throttle body sync. I have a feeling something may be out of wack with the pcv though. Go in and make some fueling adjustments at those higher RPMs and see if it makes a difference. If you don't know how, I would reach out to dyno-jet and have them guide you through the process. If it continues, take off the pcv and see if the problem persist so you can narrow down to the root cause of the issue.
@B-rad The Builder that is my plan. I did make a few adjustments and the issue happened later in the rpm range after adjustments. My only concern is I've been running the same tune for several thousand miles and it acts up now
@@kylerothermel9497 have you tried reaching out to dyno jet yet? I would give them a ring if you haven’t yet
@@BradTheBuilderChannel I did, same thing we already know. I have a few things I'm going to test before pulling the pc5 out.
@@kylerothermel9497 comment back if you figure it out. I’d be interested to see what it was
My Mt has a high idle about 3k wonder is this might sort it
Do you actually feel a power difference after doing this?
Not everything is about gaining power lol. This is simply proper maintenance for this bike, every 4k miles to ensure everything is running good and you reduce potential accelerated wear on various components. If one throttle body was off a good bit, yes you would notice the difference after syncing them both in how it performs and how it sounds. On a well maintained bike, the adjustment would likely be minor (if any) and thus not much change to notice
I'm not a mechanic but to me it looks like you just synced the gauges to the bike. Shouldn't it be vice versa?
First step is syncing the gauges to 1 single cylinder on the bike. This allows you to make sure the gauges are calibrated. This setup procedure is extremely important. Then you hook each gauge to the cylinders on the bike individually. Then you turn the screws on the throttle body to balance the gauges for each cylinder.
Looked like the backing plate of the gauge moved...not quite synced if that happens yeah?
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