Why We Hate Midbass In a Door - James's Golf IV Upgrading to 3Way Front - Brax, Helix, Hertz, JL
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some of us in the U.S. that used to be into car audio in the 90's would almost always build kicks or other enclosures and get away from the doors, but over time with the new generation of installers and the manufactures going more main stream and getting away from the passion and specialization for car audio sound quality, it has really brought down the standard of what car audio should be in my opinion, it became more about sales and making money. also, with the tools and technology we have today, there should be more high-quality systems out there, but installers and shop owners just refuse to invest the time and money necessary to be that premier shop that everyone is searching for. this is why they think there are no clients out there for high end audio. it's the old adage, if you build it, they will come. thanks for your passion, keep up the good work.
I know some Acura and Mercedes offer high end premium audio systems from the factory but nothing compare to a audiophile zapco amp with dsp 🤓
Yessir, all of my builds in the 90s and 00s had fiberglass/wood midbass pods in kicks. Everyone is just about loud now, with such a tiny focus on any sound quality
Well said, 100% agree!!!
I only recently learned about the German and Italian bombshells like steg, Brax, helix, … and got excited all over again. That’s the stuff I’ve been searching for. You are correct, there really isn’t many high end SQ brands out there AT ALL. Music is a huge part of everybody’s life, so it’s frustrating that there aren’t many options to choose from. We spend so much time in our cars (at least I do) so there should be more options.
@@tayloremriectx another thing is the recordings we listen to, if they use good equipment and studio, then it sounds great, they is a lot of music I couldn't wait to listen to, then with a high quality system I was disappointed in the recording lol, so it's a double edge sword of sorts.
Thank you for a great video as always. Learn so much from you. Sah-day is how her name is pronounced. Yes her music is great. I like your wide range of demo music. I have center woofer in a ported enclosure in my suv and it definitely provides more upfront bass than my door speakers.
Great topic to show Peter, goes to show how bad doors are for speaker location. Even when there well deadned, looking forward to the door builds for my next installment. I'm buzzing more than my doors after this improvement lol 😀❤❤.
can`t remember if he covered in the video, but midbass/bass drivers directed at each other is obviously not ideal
Great video as always👍. Whether I want to or not, I need to redo the door before the next competitive season🤔
I fully agree.. even with a front sub and 90-100hz xo there were still buzzes on most tracks.. now I've build 6.5-7l enclosures and the midbass is on another level.
The door buzzes are killing me. Even with ninety pounds of killmat, the shape of the stock door panels in my Navigator are so thin.
@@TheGodofSEOMy current theory on how to really stiffen up the doors is to connect the inner and outer panels firmly together using thick plastic mounts epoxied to the door skins and then cut out some notches so that the window can go up and down. It can be both light weight and stiff.
I've got an 04 navigator and there's no room for kick panel drivers. Plus your sitting tall and vertical, unlike a car where you can see the kick panels.
@@JasonWW2000 oddly enough, there is a ton of kick space in my 2017. I have no dead pedal so it’s just empty space.
@@TheGodofSEOThe earlier models have the fuse panel in the passenger kick panel. So although the drivers side is roomy, the passenger side is not.
@@JasonWW2000 oh damn. Well, I’m certainly not going to keep adding to the 2017 as I feel like it’s done for now and it’s time to focus on my other rides. It’s tuned great, hits hard as shit, once I chase down the slight whine/floor noise in the truck it’ll be perfect.
Love this channel. I said it before the John Darko of Car Audio Channel!
Thumbs up because I was just about to dispose of my New Order Best Of/ Rest Of cd's and sell my Hybrid Audio 3 way bespoke (L1 pro R2 tweets) until I heard this, lucky me thought to see a recent video of yours, damn impressive and worth the time as the others you posted.
Mental when you hear the accuracy on the bass guitar, you can hear the notes whereas with the fronts it becomes muddy and blurred and the notes aren’t defined! Also the kick drum is just tighter. You can hear one note ending before the next starts. I don’t have room to do mid bass in kicks in my rs4 so a cheap £20 pair of enclosures from a scrap c6 Audi a6 is what’s going into my doors when I get round to it will require some cutting but the results should be outstanding! Especially after hearing the sound difference on this video!
Keep em coming please
I recommend you to set the lower frequencies to 12 slope on the midwoofer, but you can relax the speaker's oscillation that way, 80hz 12 slope.
Pete! They need to get you on the old fashioned car audio podcast! You’re consistently pushing the industry forward with your understanding of acoustics and application. It would be great to hear you chopping it up with Matt Schaefer and Gary Bell. Great video!🍻 🔊 🔊
I think i’ll just start my own podcast soon! 💪🏼
I've got a Golf 7 for which I soundproofed the door panels, the ones you take off, the door faces. The factory speakers were terrible, UNTIL soundproofing the door faces alone. A lot of rattle was coming from the rubber trim that covers the big hole in the front doors. It's edge that was sealing the hole was making so much noise against the metal it was sitting on. I managed to put some anti-screech tape between the rubber edge and the door edge and the rattle was gone. I just listened to the first song (New Order 2016 Remasterd) and wow, no rattle, no screeching and a very nice kick, even @ max volume. The speaker, player/amplifier are stock, they are around 20 W, but they sound very good once you eliminate the rattles. The rear view mirror is vibrating form those 20 W of stock power. I plan to put some soundproofing material on the inside and outside doors and behind the speaker. You must really put some effort into soundproofing the door faces, it takes about 1-1.5 hours for each one to make it silent. I even had to take them out 2 or 3 times for making the rattles to be a non-issue. I even had to take the windows module out of it's place and mess with it for some time to make it silent. But those 20 W are sounding so much better now !
I love Tesa tape for eliminating a lot of those odd one of rattles. Lose wire harnesses, modules, mechanisms, and surprisingly wrapping your panel pins helps a lot, in some cases of course.
@@APinTheAK That is precisely what I also did, great tip !!!
You're right: everyone who used the closed box will never return to freeair... I was understood it when I made closed boxes on 8 liter for ScanSpeak... I'm happy!
I see James's face and it says: the new sound is more accurate and balanced, but the "life has disappeared" in it...
this is predictable when using high equalizer values... this is a useful video, Peter, thank you!
I have no idea how you make the assumption in the second half of your comment. If you’re part of the group who are against using equalisers for room treatment, then you have a lesson to learn. He couldn’t be happier with his system! What you might see on his face is the realisation of the weakness of the midbass install. That’s his next chapter. ✌🏼
@@pssound9749 I'm not against an equalizer, since it's a necessity... but the processor can be tuned well and with minimal use an equalizer and the sound will be more alive... everyone has their own philosophy... but I don't refuse to learn new things! Someday I will send you a video in which there is live sound and the stage is built according to EMMA... The main thing is that James will be pleased with your good work.✌
Or you take your eyeballs out and they fit cameras..😂..edy..you always crack me up!
Can’t recommend Patreon enough.
I found early on in the 90's that front seats in cars are usually never the best for SQ. Steering wheel, consoles, odd dash shapes, off axis down low door panel mounts all contributed to this.
Kickpanel staging (and then waveguides) was all the rage in mags like CSR and solved this from a microphone perspective in the 'sweet spot' with an increased path lengths and better FR. But...with kicks umm, thats where our dang feet go, and legs can easily obstruct and muddy the image especially heard from the opposite side. Also one had to be careful not to 'step all over the sounds' or bang yer shin into the WG's.
I dig your mid placement on the A-pillar next to the tweets, that has to sound really sweet. Also agree with you that the mid bass will be a trade off at best unless you mount a sizeable driver and enlclosure right near them. But its more important to have proper visibility while driving than a superior front stage.
Best SQ I ever heard/created was in the REAR seat of a gen3 Camaro. 6×9 holes on the sides were slightly widened for a 8-4-1 vertical array. Original line of Fosgate speakers with their soft dome tweets (those being slightly above ear level) all 3 barely fitting behind the factory grille running off a RF Power 650. Best SQ I ever heard in a car hands down.
Sitting on that center hump between those cramped rear back seats was shortlived but the eargasm was worth it and was somewhere between a wicked 2ch home hifi setup and having (real) headphones on.
Great vídeo 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I’ve always found that VW and Audi are built fairly solid and have little buzzing from factory, and with a little dampening can increase sound quality greatly.
I have a Mini Cooper and the underseat subs 8” are ported and chuffing when high volume is annoying. Have you ever fix a mini under seat speaker enclosure?
I have a semi truck I'm planning out. I will either put them up high in the ceiling where there is actually plenty of unused space and room, or build an enclosure in and put that in the doors.
What is the best Hi-Fi speaker (I'm looking for some deep bass)❤
Excellent video.
What is your opinion on placing subwoofers on rear side panels on a three door car like mk4 Golf?
You're basically putting a subwoofer into a sheet metal enclosure. Its not good. At least there's not a window that rolls down. You can try to stiffen up all the sheet metal by lining the inside with fiberglass.
Another option is to install a sealed enclosure into the cavity.
Hola saludos tengo un jetta mk5 con el mismo problema. Coloqué debajo de asiento FOCAL ISUB TWIN al sistema 3 vias activo.Por que no tengo un pssound en mi zona 😢.
I just bought a new 2024 Camry. I'm looking to change out the stock speakers. Video is right on time.
Thanks brotha
Great videoand great explanation. Is a brilliant solution make a enclosure in the door for the midbass and I want to do it in my Peugeot 208 because I don’t like vibratons and I want a perfect sound in my car. I want to install 3 way Focal PS165F3E and is very important for me the sound quality. It’s a hard work and expensive but I think is necessary. Thanks a lot 🙏 I will follow your channel, you are really an artist 👌🏻
Check out the Mazda 6 we shared 2 months ago with same speaker and door enclosures. ✌🏼🔊🔊
If you had a car you wanted to keep stock appearance wise and thus did not want to build enclosures, would a good alternative be to move the midbass production to the rear shelf via DSP? I know a lot of rear shelves open up to the trunk, would that mount of air make it ineffective for that frequency range?
In that case the problem would be the location miles away from the front midrange speakers. You want to cover the frequencies min from 100Hz from the front in order to create a believable sound stage in front of you.
I bought an old 1995 Lexus LS400 as a second car. I'm planning a modest build. The doors have separate speaker enclosures, which I plan on adding sound deadening. I'll probably enlarge the fronts to 6.5 from 5.25. I know its a very old car, but any recommendations of what speakers would work in a small factory enclosure? Also, these have small ports, should I enlarge the tiny ports or seal them and add more power?
P. S. I would like to thank you for all your videos that have helped me design and tune in my other car. I have come a long way since the 90's when I just threw a bunch of amps and speakers in. I now enjoy the music again, but for completely different reasons. I still like it loud, but no longer for the sake of just being loud. Thank you.
Little ports with larger drivers can get overloaded and they can start making chuffing noise, so yes, making them sealed up maybe a better option if you’re looking for audiophile results.
Hello from Audio Advisors
Nice video Peter! Brax ml3 you say nice midrange, What midrange would you recommend for the best price/quality? Thank you
Chosing midrange depends on what location can be used, how high the midbass can play up without acoustical problems in the frequency range, etc.
People will never get a definite answer focusing on brands from me as i care more about the aforementioned things first.
There are many great midrange speakers that cost less than Brax, like Helix, Steg, Focal.
Doors are a pain. I definitely like the idea of going with an enclosure in the doors. Finding space for kick panel installations on small modern cars just seems like a pain. The Mazda enclosures looked fantastic.
On another note, I just don't like a-pillar pods like these. Seems like a visibility hinderance; at least on my tiny car they would be. :) And where I'm at they're a nice bit of advertising to would-be thieves. It's definitely function over form here, and function always wins for me but the form bugs me. :) The a-pillar pods you did on the Cube were just the right ticket. Looked almost perfectly factory. I wonder if using a 2" midrange could get the same result on VW A-pillars.
A 2” midrange is still better than having no midrange at all, but 2” mids are usually a bit insensitive and are a bit limited on how low they can play. I’d rather try to fit a 3”, way more flexibility.
@@pssound9749
Thanks for the advice on the 2".
I'll have to do some planning. Might be able to get a 3" mid in the A-pillar without it standing out. Will pick up some pillar trims from the scrapyard to play with. It's a 6C Polo so just factory tweeter in the A-pillar and 6.5" in the doors.
Miss your stuff my guy🎉🤜
Hi Peter,
The song by the band Moloko with the song "Time is now" is also a very good song to discover possible vibrations. Have you ever tried it?
Yes that starts with just kickbass, good tip! 💪🏼🔊🔊
Peter, has anyone tried spot welding sheet metal supports between inner and outer door frame to stiffen it up? Kind of encircling the driver like pillars? Depending how low the window comes down of course.
Almost never have room because of that window mechanism and too much work most people don’t want to paint a door afterwards…
Exactly that! The body work is more effort than building enclosures or alternative locations.
I did something similar to what you are saying.
I took some all thread, a threaded end that had a large flat surface area, and a couple nuts. Drilled a hole through the inner skin, passed the all thread through, screwed on 2 nuts and the flat end, pushed the flat against the outer skin, and used 2 nuts on the inside and 2 on the outside to brace the 2 skins together. Then epoxy the flat bit to the door outer skin to secure without welding
It did help, but as the others said, I could only do it low on the door in a few spots. So it didn't help as much as I wanted it to.
Replace the metal braces and welding with molded plastic and epoxy and you may be on to something. 👍
Is there coming a build vid on this car😁
Not really as originally it wasn’t built by us. We just change things on it bits by bits and share updates of each chapter like this one.
The woman who sings "No ordinary Love" is pronounced "Shah-Day"
I live in california. Who do you recommend to evaluate and tune my system? Great segment.
What part of Cali?
@@pssound9749Southern California
Only car that doesnt have huge issues with door midbass speakers is e39 5series bmw, doorcard is really rigid. Just tiny amount of sound insulation to pockets, new mounting clips. Than ofcourse the outer door skin need some too.
No buzzing can be achieved in quite few cars, but do those doors controlled, tight bass that you can feel too or just “hot fart” 💨 (usually the way i call it😃)?
ive got 8 inch peerless sls mid bass speakers in my doors,tons of deadening and i built the baffle really rigid but i want to do it right and cut my bottom cards,i have spares so no big deal,but i need to find the right 8 inch mid bass to go in some sealed enclosures,i wrote peter on face book but he's too busy,we used to talk a few yrs back but anyways,so here it is DOES ANYONE know some good 8 inch mid bass speakers,the peerless sls is actually labeled a sub,but lots of the ones i look at says. subwoofer/mid bass so i dont know, any tips guys,holler back soon its already getting hot outside ughhhh
"The Very Thought of You", by Michael Buble. The opening lyrics can make a subpar doorcard rattle like crazy.
While I agree a door will always be inferior to a proper enclosure, I hope to change your mind about MB in doors. Project upcoming in 2/24 hopefully.
I’m always open to hear some magic!
Did you ever hear any car from us or anyone’s where the midbass was installed in IB/enclosure and had zero flex?
Yes, kind of. I don't believe zero flex can be achieved with common fiberglass /wood enclosures. Let's call it much less flex than the doors. I'm going to treat / mod my doors to achieve "much less flex" than OEM doors.@@pssound9749
Well it took me a couple months longer to find the vehicle I was looking for, but I finally got it. Got the gear. Now the install will hopefully happen soon.
Have you done anything in a Smart fourtwo smart 🚗 car. 451
Only the 1st generation one. Pretty bad platform for anything amazing tbh.
Ohh. For tidal aya sound tracks and Test sounds. Only found 1. ……
Another good song is A Perfect Circle - The Package. The opening of that song has crazy midbass. That is the one song that makes me hate that I went through so much effort to build door enclosures. It makes my passenger door rattle SO BAD. 🤬
Soon I will do IB kicks.
i recently bought a helix DSP PRO mkII and i don't have a clue on how to set this thing up. I bought the Bluetooth module and downloaded DSP PC-TOOL v4 also. Can anyone help?
Where do you live?
@pssound9749 United States. South Carolina
Honestly, I experienced this in my Navigator’s doors. The CDT Midwoofers simply did not sound properly. I finally posted a sound demo on my channel AFTER I replaced them with much shallower Recoils, and while it sounds great now, the midbass is sort of lost. Sooo, now, do I: build midwoofer pods on both kicks? Do I do one 10” IB on passenger side for midbass? Questions questions.
Midbass has to be stereo, you need 2.
One option you could have: small enclosures for midbass on doors and a 8-12” front sub on passenger side.
@@pssound9749 I think the Navigator is done. I’m beyond satisfied since I spent so little and got such a massive sound experience in return. Onto the other cars in my driveway. 👍🏼
Build the Right Enclosures !!!
Resonate Free is the Way to Be!!!
I'll be ordering the glasses with the camera in it.
I'm hoping to get The Suzuki demo someday...
It’ll be there on the next meeting in Brighton on 16th December ✌🏼🔊🔊
I'm in Finland so YT would be easier option to me.
@@ilkkak3065 flight is cheap to London Gatwick, Brighton is 30mins away. Make a long weekend trip once. We live once! ✌🏼
I got all the PS SOUNDS demo, SQ and IB tracks! Cancelled the siriusxm garbage sounds! THANKS
I would really love to have you listen to my car… Maybe you remember… I got in touch some times ago to get my car built by you… Distance was sort of an obstacle and I had a build made in Germany. The mids are in the doors…I made the test with this Blue Monday song, wondering and I have actually been really surprised… It comes out really good !
Hi Simon,
If I remember correctly you’re close to the border on the west. I’m sure we’ll have trips to Germany plenty of times in the future, so we could arrange a meeting. ✌🏼
That would really be cool… 😊 I am actually in Switzerland.
@@simonevieux2280 we have someone flying over to our next meeting on the 16th December from Switzerland.
We have friends in Zurich, we should visit them next year too.
Excellent ! I’ll try not to miss you !
And if it works out well, I might even hear the Mercedes 🎉
do you sometimes test or listen to Yello music?
For sure, they have many well mastered tunes! 🔊🔊
Interesting, but for me its a commuter car and with all the road and traffic noise I am not expecting the same fidelity I get from my home system. Its good enough for the amount of time I spend in it and all the noises that enter the cabin.
And that is why we soundproof the cars.
Does this really mean even 2 liter enclosure is better option than original place in door?
When it comes to resonances and rattles, then yet, even a small box is better. If it’s too small, then it has the challenge of not being able to play low enough. I’d say 5L is the minimum you want for sufficient low-end extension with most 6.5” speakers in sealed.
@@pssound9749I had this idea to make a tiny enclosure around the door driver and then a long rectangular vent going down to an opening at the bottom of the door. Basically the door driver would be would be a true infinite baffle. It just takes a longer path.
There was a guy in the US just this past week on FB showing how he put JL Audio 6” w3 subs in the front doors of a truck and he swore they sounded amazing. I laughed so hard. He definitely doesn’t know how to measure never mind eq(Tune) but he was passing on a false message and I hope people go to the correct channels to properly educate themselves. FB seems to be a sespit of false info and average audio shops around the world. This is the only place the world needs to come to.
I saw that one! His reference level is probably different and if he was happy with it, then let him be happy.
Hmm what do you think about rear footwells?
We’ve done it, but ideally you don’t want to cross the drivers high from there, so it works more correctly if you use them as additional kickbass upto like 150Hz maximum with proper tuning. Definitely not advised for competition positional tracks, but it’s okay for daily listening.
@@pssound9749 Yeah, that's what I thought. So another location what is not possible :) small car problems...
If I understand correctly, midbass location like in the Nissan Cube is not a suitable option for competitions?
No easy way out🙃
@@MariusK81 it’s okay in 4way if they’re crossed under 100-120Hz, but not so ideal if you have to cross them up at 250-300Hz. Pf course if we talk about Euro Finals level competition expectations…
My door trim never use to resonate and now it does 😢
Is it winter there atm?
@@pssound9749 yes but if you push on the pocket area it stops.
You should damping the doors panel
@@matthewmullane5425
HETZ MILE LEGEND VS AUDIBLE PHYSICS TRIDEV WHICH IS BETTER
Both sets can sound great and equally poor too. Why is that?
@@pssound9749 so plz suggest me same budget good 3 way I am from India
maybe a better door would be a better test, that speaker is mounted on detachable inner panel.
Doesn’t make much difference compared to an enclosure or alternative locations with rigid mounting.
@@pssound9749 pete ive been following you for a while now watch all your youtube videos and patreon. but to be fair you’ve installed some cars on doors and you said it was good.
so door install depends on the car?
you're wrong, golf mk4 has probably the best door that you can find, the baffle for the driver is actually an aluminium panel that seals the door perfectly. yes the door card is not the best but which car has a more solid one these days?
@@eduard.c.ionescu better than a car that has the speakers mount attached to the actual door? no way, and those service holes can be sealed off. not with deadening ofcourse. can do bolted seals.
@@Rbdlr yes, in this video we were emphasising doing better than just good. There are many doors that work okay, but NOTHING is amazing!
Definitely check out RAW-CAt he’s building a proper sound system and experiments with amp measurements, very interesting content .
I know Nerijus. Possibly he got more inspired by hearing my Honda 2 years ago than anything else and since then he’s been pushing it! 💪🏼🔊🔊
Sound deadning in the doors and find whatever it is that's rattling in the doors and take care of it. Just like everything else that rattles in the car.
You can get rid of the rattles, but you can’t get rid of the flex and uncontrolled large, leaky airspace.
That's mostly door construction. Never been impressed with VW, American, Subaru, Nissan, etc. Luxury and expensive cars often either reduce or fix this entirely. Different materials have different resonating frequencies which are difficult to manage with conventional techniques. The most impressive technique I've seen is chaining different materials together that cancel eachother's resonance out. It takes some engineering, like tuning the sound of the exhaust, but a valuable feature no doubt.
But then you still have moving parts of the window mechanism and all the little trims that can still rattle. It’s way more efficient to build an enclosure if door location is the only option.
@@pssound9749 Sure, I've been in cars where I never had to do that though...
Edit: I also don't play bass that rattles my license plates so that might have something to do with it.
I will never go midbass n the doors again for a proper system. I have mine in the kicks and any future car will be cut according if no oem space exists. The difference is night and day.
On the new BMW’s the under seat 8” subs can be a dedicated midbass just by adding a sub in the trunk. It just has to be crossed over preferably actively. Now I’m thinking can we just put in a better quality shallow mount midbass, add a spacer for a bigger deeper magnet or one with a more efficient neodemium magnet.
Usually there is no room for spacers as the seat rail comes right on the top of the speaker grill.
1. Q: What do good midbass drivers do?
A: They move A LOT of air.
So, IF you are limited (for whatever reason) to using midbass drivers in the OEM door locations, FFS, CUT OUT & REMOVE the Highly Restrictive OEM Speaker GRILLS so ALL of that air can actually be transferred into the CABIN and not be restricted and converted to Resonance & Vibration in the door cards/panels! This ALONE will solve a lot the issues with the door cards resonating!
Even using good acoustically-transparent grill cloth over an aftermarket minimalist/non-restrictive metal honeycomb mesh grill is WAY better than 95% of the restrictive OEM factory door speaker grills. This is also advocated by multiple SQ World Champion Brian Mitchell
Having a restrictive grill in front of the speaker cone is essentially the same as using an Aperiodic Membrane in the enclosure for the driver that is improperly tuned...it completely changes the Impedance and response of the driver.
Cut out the restrictive grill and you will need to re-tune the system due to this. It also improves the detail and resolution in the midbass response...confirm by listening to any good recording of an acoustic upright bass or any other track that plays midbass from an acoustic instrument with harmonics and resonance.
2. Choose a very low Fs driver for your midbass...~30Hz or below. When doing this, the Qts of the driver is nearly irrelevant and it will work equally well in "I.B." or in a smaller sealed enclosure because you will be using a typical 60Hz-80Hz crossover that is at least One Full Octave above Fs.
If you are not playing the driver down anywhere near to its Resonant Frequency (Fs), the "enclosure" is almost irrelevant as long as you are isolating the front and rear waves of the driver.
No, you are not going to solve the inherent and unique midbass cancellation nulls that are due the specific dimensions and distances to boundaries in your vehicle, but you can solve much of that by properly using your subwoofer...or a front subwoofer...to fill in those nulls.
In one of my valuable classic vehicles, I am not willing to cut metal or do any permanent modifications, so I am limited to using the OEM door locations for my midbass drivers.
The single largest improvement to reducing the resonances and vibrations in the doors and door panels was the installation of a full coverage of 1/32" thick lead sheet that was skinned on both sides with soft 1/8" compressable CCF.
A precise hole was cut out for the driver and mounting ring, and the sheet was placed onto the outer interior door skin where the 7" Purifi PTT6.5 midbass drivers are mounted. The lead sheet is sealed around the perimeter of the 1.5" thick UHMW speaker ring using butyl rope.
I did this modification to just the driver-side door first and then compared it to the passenger-side door using my "Midbass Tourture Test" playlist and the difference was Night & Day. Well worth the effort and expense.
Nick at ResoNix Sound Solutions offers a "ResoNix Barrier" product that is premade with this CCF/Lead/CCF sandwhich for this purpose.
It also has a very robust adhesive backing that makes installation a breeze compared to the "DIY" solution that I used. It's expensive, but actually not when you add up all of the separate materials and time that it takes to do this a' la DIY.
And ResoNix currently has a "BLACK FRIDAY" 20% off SALE going, but it'll probably be offset by the International shipping to those of you in Europe. :(
Another question...Peter, in every install that I have seen here on TH-cam and FB, you are still using lightweight B-B Plywood for your midwoofer & midbass driver mounting rings/spacers in the door and elsewhere. Why?
Start using UHMW or HDPE polymers, or kitchen/bathroom solid-surface countertop materials (Corian, etc) that are much more dense, heavy, and non-resonant, and which also completely eliminate any question of having moisture issues as well. You can still fabricate these materials using your standard wood working tools (table saw/router, etc.).
A heavier/denser mounting baffle or ring will help to further reduce midbass and midrange resonance to the door skin, and you are 100% guaranteed to not have any issues due to moisture.
My twopence worth 😜
One of my ideas for adapting a 6 3/4 driver to a 6x8 hole was to make an adapter out of quarter inch plate steel. It will definitely make it harder for the driver to vibrate the door.
Love your videos. Very informative.
I'm going to sound like a brainless troglodyte but I've got quick question if that's OK Peter? Can you make a 6X9 sound good in a door or not? The general consensus is that it's a very bad idea but multiple manufacturers have used this kind of set up including Lexus.
I presume you'd only go for this if you didn't have tweeters? And presumably you'd generally avoid them in the rear because they could f*ck up the soundstage?
There are few 6x9” dedicated midbass drivers, like HAT, Karma or ESB make them. 6x9” = 8”, so more cone area.
Rear doors can be tuned to add extra kick for daily systems, but not advised for competition positional tracks.
@@pssound9749- Many thanks for taking time to answer my question. :-)
I still can't get over how good your Insignia build was/is. Songs sounded utterly incredibly on a TH-cam video. Can't imagine what it was like in person.
@@Jimbo8012 just like any other car with solid installation.
@@pssound9749 - I think you do yourself a little deservice Peter. It takes real skill, expertise and experience to do what you do.
@@pssound9749 - I actually have an Insignia as my workhorse car. I do listen to a fair bit of music in that but I'm not an audiophile who wants to spend 10's of thousands like your Insignia build.
Can a good soundsystem be had with stock speaker locations, android headunit with DSP, amp and a sub in the boot?
I would rather install my mid bass with a proper enclosure in a Driver and passenger side door.
Yes, I've heard competition vehicles that have enclosures in the doors and they sound amazing. The problem is the average person does not want to give up the ability to roll down their window.
The man indirectly talks a lot and teaches nothing. He managed to end the video.
You see this YT channel never meant to be to teach how to do stuff, but rather for inspiration, if you want to actually learn, and trust me, I've been watching every single video on Patreon and the amount of knowledge the man is posting over there is insane, is almost a 1-10 proposition compared to YT, coming to know basically nothing I've a learn a lot, but tuning, which I don't really care about it. I know you have to pay but hey content creator are realizing that knowledge ain't come for free i gess🤷
@@lorenzonencioni4135 ben biliyorum sana başarılar