Just changed my front pads in my 2010 Wrangler Islander for the first time since I purchased it in 2015. Over 80k miles on them and about 1 mm thickness at the thinnest spot. I did not put grease on the guide channels that the pads ride in on the caliper for concern that a good bump in the road might throw off some of the grease onto the disc and contaminate the brake pad and reduce braking, if not causing total failure to stop the vehicle. Also, grease will hold the brake dust and get thicker and thicker causing a loss of pad movement. The clips that came with my Raybestos Element3 pads are stainless steel, so no rusting there. Use your iphone to take pics before you disassemble things and it will help you get everything back where they belong.
The rotors are glazed and new pads wont change that, these are heavy vehicles and yours has the light duty brakes. New rotors would restore braking to like new.
You made a perfect video. I think using c clamp is perfect much better then pushing them in with a long screw driver against the existing pad. I always wondered if I'm pushing cylinder in squarely or am I damaging it. Clamp removes the worry.. I'll do it like that next time. Thanks
Thank you my brother…. just did both front and rear pads myself!!!! Saved a ton on money!!!!!
Just changed my front pads in my 2010 Wrangler Islander for the first time since I purchased it in 2015. Over 80k miles on them and about 1 mm thickness at the thinnest spot. I did not put grease on the guide channels that the pads ride in on the caliper for concern that a good bump in the road might throw off some of the grease onto the disc and contaminate the brake pad and reduce braking, if not causing total failure to stop the vehicle. Also, grease will hold the brake dust and get thicker and thicker causing a loss of pad movement. The clips that came with my Raybestos Element3 pads are stainless steel, so no rusting there. Use your iphone to take pics before you disassemble things and it will help you get everything back where they belong.
Great job Dale , keep your videos coming sir.
The rotors are glazed and new pads wont change that, these are heavy vehicles and yours has the light duty brakes. New rotors would restore braking to like new.
My 2012 JKUR requires a 13mm socket to remove the bolts securing the brake calipers onto the pins. Just FYI
You made a perfect video. I think using c clamp is perfect much better then pushing them in with a long screw driver against the existing pad. I always wondered if I'm pushing cylinder in squarely or am I damaging it. Clamp removes the worry.. I'll do it like that next time. Thanks
Put a piece of 1x4 between the c-clamp and piston so apply fairly even pressure.
You already have the old brake pad, so why not use it instead. It will work the same.
Exactly and it's thinner@@stephenhagen234
@@stephenhagen234💯 that’s what I do
Use the old brake pads
I have been working cars since 10 yrs old,,dad owned a dealership.
Easy tutorial to follow
Exellent job.
Thank you!
Is this the same with rear brakes?
Pretty much, only thing I’m curious about is if both front and rear rotors are the same size
WHAT BRAND PADS AND ROTORS?
It’s linked in the video description