Hey thanks man. I want to add that if you’re in the rustbelt smacking the side of the knuckle with a hammer is everything to that job you will never get these ball joints to budge. I really appreciate you guys taking the time on your day and showing us how to do this you guys are absolutely fantastic. What a wonderful video well explaining that you are a great mechanic man. Also when you’re reinstalling your passenger side axle there are two plastic pieces in there. Those are not shims. Those are to help you align that axle so you don’t knock out that seal on the passenger side. I have a leak and I’m hoping that mine was overfilled and just went into the two but I’m pretty sure I’m gonna have to replace these axle seals. They have been leaking so it’s not a big deal but please watch for it guys, if you have new axle seals and you’re doing your ball joint shirt you joints you’re putting your axles back in. Make sure you pay attention and make sure that black piece is on the inside of your axle next to that seal so that when you slide it in, you’re good to go. He forgot about that.
At 6:21 you said use a 1 1/16 socket but you used a 1 1/8, which can be seen in the video, which I also had to use. At 6:46, you said a 24 mm socket for the top ball joint, I did see the socket as it was spinning around and you were using a 24mm, but I had to use a 23 mm, so if anyone else is following along, it seems there might be different sizes (2013 JKL) Other than that, I followed along step by step and it worked as well as I could hope, the issue being MN rust gumming things up a good bit more that what is in the video. Overall, great step by step instructions everything you need and nothing you don't. One other thing, I did not remove the antilock cable, I just kept it clear and set the assembly on a bucket to the side so it didn't stress the wire and that worked well.
I need to say a hearty thank you for this video. It is by far the most thorough and detailed video for ball joint replacement. I have to be almost half your view count. Haha. Thanks again!
Some people say 35, not 36 for axle nut. I’ll make sure I have both when I do mine. Also, I heard, especially if in the rust belt, is the replace the 35mm axle nut, do not reuse the one you removed.
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
TRAINING MY GRANDSON TO TAKE OVER MY SHOP WISH THERE WERE MORE TRAINING VIDEO'S DONE AS WELL AS THIS ONE.👍👍 GOOD WALK THROUGH AND GOOD JOB.
Hey thanks man. I want to add that if you’re in the rustbelt smacking the side of the knuckle with a hammer is everything to that job you will never get these ball joints to budge. I really appreciate you guys taking the time on your day and showing us how to do this you guys are absolutely fantastic. What a wonderful video well explaining that you are a great mechanic man. Also when you’re reinstalling your passenger side axle there are two plastic pieces in there. Those are not shims. Those are to help you align that axle so you don’t knock out that seal on the passenger side. I have a leak and I’m hoping that mine was overfilled and just went into the two but I’m pretty sure I’m gonna have to replace these axle seals. They have been leaking so it’s not a big deal but please watch for it guys, if you have new axle seals and you’re doing your ball joint shirt you joints you’re putting your axles back in. Make sure you pay attention and make sure that black piece is on the inside of your axle next to that seal so that when you slide it in, you’re good to go. He forgot about that.
Oh dude, massive appreciation for the perfect instruction and camera work. SUBSCRIBED.
Absolute legend for making this video bro, just got the job done following your instructions
At 6:21 you said use a 1 1/16 socket but you used a 1 1/8, which can be seen in the video, which I also had to use. At 6:46, you said a 24 mm socket for the top ball joint, I did see the socket as it was spinning around and you were using a 24mm, but I had to use a 23 mm, so if anyone else is following along, it seems there might be different sizes (2013 JKL) Other than that, I followed along step by step and it worked as well as I could hope, the issue being MN rust gumming things up a good bit more that what is in the video. Overall, great step by step instructions everything you need and nothing you don't. One other thing, I did not remove the antilock cable, I just kept it clear and set the assembly on a bucket to the side so it didn't stress the wire and that worked well.
I need to say a hearty thank you for this video. It is by far the most thorough and detailed video for ball joint replacement. I have to be almost half your view count. Haha. Thanks again!
Perfect explanation here. Made my day so much easier.
Must be a southern mechanic that tie rod was to easy lol but I highly appreciate y'all's channel
Great video, thanks for the detail explanations, tips, socket sizes and torque specs.
Excellent video, really helped me work through the ball joint installation. Thank you!
Fantastic instructional video, thanks for making this
There are some jobs that are worth paying a mechanic. I've always found ball joints to be one of those jobs. :)
Awesome and well explained video!! Congrat
A well-done video. Thank you!
great time to do your diff seals
4:12 and 4:26 EXTREMELY satisfying “snaps”.
Was this with the OEM tools ball joint press?
Great presentation and demo! Thanks for this!
Excellent demo
Excellent video!
Excellent video. Thank you!!!
Nicely done bro
Some people say 35, not 36 for axle nut. I’ll make sure I have both when I do mine. Also, I heard, especially if in the rust belt, is the replace the 35mm axle nut, do not reuse the one you removed.
Never understood putting drilled rotors on a 4x4 . Just mud collection points 🤷♂️
You sound just like the chemistry guy @nilered
peening tf out of these suspension parts. i guess most people dont care. a lot do though.
Excellent video!
Excellent video, thanks!